Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
On Jun 21, 1:02 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: Lighter rubber and/or lighter wheels on the Sam are an excellent place to start. And I appreciate the suggestion to enjoy the slowness. :) But it's not really an illusion - on a different bike (29er mtn bike with 2.2 knobbys) i can do my 6 mile morning commute (in) in about 20 minutes if I hit most of the lights. on the Sam, it's more like 30. for commuting I could care less about the speed, but it's definitely different on the two bikes, and not in the direction I'd expect. Y'know, I sat down and worked the math on that one, and I gotta say, that's a pretty huge difference for 6 miles. Maybe the MOE brings it closer together, but 10 minutes difference for that distance is a head-scratcher - especially since one of the bikes shouldn't really be all that fast on pavement (the 29er w/ knobbies). Maybe if you had a whole bunch of short blocks with stop signs/stop lights at each intersection... Or a bunch of short, sharp risers to climb. If you are _that_ much faster on the mtb, and you want to sharpen up the performance of the Sam, you might take a look at the position of your saddle relative to the bb, the relative height of the bars, and see if some concessions are to be made. Sometimes it takes a little more riding to be efficient - I know the first day when I switch over from Quickbeam to Hilsen, things feel a bit pokey. Honestly, I'd also take a good stem-to-stern look at things that move - the wheels, making sure they roll smoothly and aren't rubbing brake pads, make sure they aren't somehow binding when in the dropouts. Also, are you using a different computer on each bike? Or, are you timing via watch? Ok. 'nuff pondering. - J -- Jim Edgar cyclofi...@earthlink.net Cyclofiend Bicycle Photo Galleries - http://www.cyclofiend.com Current Classics - Cross Bikes Singlespeed - Working Bikes Gallery updates now appear here - http://cyclofiend.blogspot.com 'You both ride your bike?' He held his hands out and grabbed imaginary handlebars, grinning indulgently, eyeing Tom's helmet. Double disbeleif: not one, but two grown Americans riding bicycles. -- Neal Stephenson, Zodiac -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
My similar data-point: http://cyclotourist.blogspot.com/2010/05/bike-servations.html That was on a flat route though. On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 5:54 PM, Bill Gibson bill.bgib...@gmail.com wrote: Perception of speed is just that: subjective. Enjoy your ride! To go fast, get a good night's sleep, eat drink well, be well, don't wear flappy clothes, find your fast tires (which may or may not the most durable). In that order. The engine, the air, then tires. If it's hilly, OK, lose weight, but on the open plain, don't worry. On rolling hills extra momentum might even help. On rough roads, my ancient prejudice has recently been scientifically confirmed: fatter, lower pressure tires may seem slower, but aren't; the song of tubulars and high pressure skinny tires is a siren song. On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Andrew, If it were me, changing the tires to a good quality lighter weight tire would be the first thing I would do. Panaracer Paselas (non- tourguard) roll reasonably well and relatively inexpensive. I've got 32s (measure 28-29) on the Rambouillet and 35s (measure 35) on the Quickbeam. Heavier/more durable tires on the Rambouillet were noticeably/measurably slower. Angus On Jun 13, 9:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Bill Gibson Tempe, Arizona, USA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Perception of speed is just that: subjective. Enjoy your ride! To go fast, get a good night's sleep, eat drink well, be well, don't wear flappy clothes, find your fast tires (which may or may not the most durable). In that order. The engine, the air, then tires. If it's hilly, OK, lose weight, but on the open plain, don't worry. On rolling hills extra momentum might even help. On rough roads, my ancient prejudice has recently been scientifically confirmed: fatter, lower pressure tires may seem slower, but aren't; the song of tubulars and high pressure skinny tires is a siren song. On Sun, Jun 20, 2010 at 3:02 PM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Andrew, If it were me, changing the tires to a good quality lighter weight tire would be the first thing I would do. Panaracer Paselas (non- tourguard) roll reasonably well and relatively inexpensive. I've got 32s (measure 28-29) on the Rambouillet and 35s (measure 35) on the Quickbeam. Heavier/more durable tires on the Rambouillet were noticeably/measurably slower. Angus On Jun 13, 9:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Bill Gibson Tempe, Arizona, USA -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
On Mon, 2010-06-14 at 20:30 -0700, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery wrote: But now that you mentioned it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests, except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of spokes. Wouldn't a drum test work even better? -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! By far the best advice! On Jun 14, 8:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
I posted similar questions to yours a while back as Speed Up My Sam. I had just abandoned my racing bike for a Sam and was struggling with how sluggish it felt when climbing and generally losing 2-3 mph over my average pace. I ultimately just rode the century with my commuting wheels, fenders and racks still attached and finished about a half hour slower than my previous century but with energy to spare and virtually no discomfort. I attribute this to the cushioning of the larger tires and the superior comfort afforded by my rider position on the Sam. I would certainly like to have a set of lighter wheels (32 spokes) and tires for training and events, but for me, when riding anything over 50 miles, the benefits of ultralight wheels and skinny hard tires give way to concerns of comfort, and I don't ride events less than a metric. Certainly, if I was doing triathlons I'd push for something with considerably more zip, but I that's not my scene. I'm also considering an A.H.H., a used Ram or the someday Amos for my sport riding, but still would want them set up with relatively plush tires and durable 32 spoke wheels. I am very interested in the opinions of other Sam owners who have gone with the lighter Rivish wheels and tires. D.G. On Jun 13, 11:39 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Just my humble opinion but finishing a ride slower that a previous one of equal distance can be due to many factors, fitness level, wind and weather, proper hydration and food intake, tire pressure, etc. etc. Most people ( not here for the most part) think bigger tires means slower. I guess I fall into the category from my personal experience that the tire itself is also a factor. I have a Sam too, with 32 spoke Salsa Delgado rims. I started with Schwalbe Smart Sams in a 40mm wide version( knobbies), went to a 35mm Pasela and now ride the 38mm Schwalbe Marathon Racer. The Racer feels faster than the Pasela even though it’s slightly wider. They roll very well too. So going a little narrower would help and the right tire makes a difference too. ~Mike~ On Jun 15, 9:12 am, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote: I posted similar questions to yours a while back as Speed Up My Sam. I had just abandoned my racing bike for a Sam and was struggling with how sluggish it felt when climbing and generally losing 2-3 mph over my average pace. I ultimately just rode the century with my commuting wheels, fenders and racks still attached and finished about a half hour slower than my previous century but with energy to spare and virtually no discomfort. I attribute this to the cushioning of the larger tires and the superior comfort afforded by my rider position on the Sam. I would certainly like to have a set of lighter wheels (32 spokes) and tires for training and events, but for me, when riding anything over 50 miles, the benefits of ultralight wheels and skinny hard tires give way to concerns of comfort, and I don't ride events less than a metric. Certainly, if I was doing triathlons I'd push for something with considerably more zip, but I that's not my scene. I'm also considering an A.H.H., a used Ram or the someday Amos for my sport riding, but still would want them set up with relatively plush tires and durable 32 spoke wheels. I am very interested in the opinions of other Sam owners who have gone with the lighter Rivish wheels and tires. D.G. On Jun 13, 11:39 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Good point Mike. Rolling resistance is a huge factor. If the rides are on relatively debris free roads, the Schwalbe Kojak is another comfotably wide tire that rolls very freely. On Jun 15, 1:13 pm, Michael_S mikeybi...@rocketmail.com wrote: Just my humble opinion but finishing a ride slower that a previous one of equal distance can be due to many factors, fitness level, wind and weather, proper hydration and food intake, tire pressure, etc. etc. Most people ( not here for the most part) think bigger tires means slower. I guess I fall into the category from my personal experience that the tire itself is also a factor. I have a Sam too, with 32 spoke Salsa Delgado rims. I started with Schwalbe Smart Sams in a 40mm wide version( knobbies), went to a 35mm Pasela and now ride the 38mm Schwalbe Marathon Racer. The Racer feels faster than the Pasela even though it’s slightly wider. They roll very well too. So going a little narrower would help and the right tire makes a difference too. ~Mike~ On Jun 15, 9:12 am, Darin G. dbg...@mac.com wrote: I posted similar questions to yours a while back as Speed Up My Sam. I had just abandoned my racing bike for a Sam and was struggling with how sluggish it felt when climbing and generally losing 2-3 mph over my average pace. I ultimately just rode the century with my commuting wheels, fenders and racks still attached and finished about a half hour slower than my previous century but with energy to spare and virtually no discomfort. I attribute this to the cushioning of the larger tires and the superior comfort afforded by my rider position on the Sam. I would certainly like to have a set of lighter wheels (32 spokes) and tires for training and events, but for me, when riding anything over 50 miles, the benefits of ultralight wheels and skinny hard tires give way to concerns of comfort, and I don't ride events less than a metric. Certainly, if I was doing triathlons I'd push for something with considerably more zip, but I that's not my scene. I'm also considering an A.H.H., a used Ram or the someday Amos for my sport riding, but still would want them set up with relatively plush tires and durable 32 spoke wheels. I am very interested in the opinions of other Sam owners who have gone with the lighter Rivish wheels and tires. D.G. On Jun 13, 11:39 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text -- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. Andrew: Those are pretty big tires. For sure quite comfortable to ride (I know mine are!), but a lot of rubber to move as well. A lighter, tire coupled to lighter wheelset will make a big difference. Should be just what you need for events, while keeping the Schwalbe shod wheels for every day. On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Andrew Dont forget to consider the rear wheel spacing. Your Hillborne is 135mm, but if you go to a traditional go-fast, you may find yourself shopping for a 130mm rear wheel all over again. On Jun 13, 10:39 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Don't forget the upcoming Rivendell/Soma collaboration (Amos?)- basically a road bike for 57mm calipers (like Ram, Rom, and Roadeo) with the expanded geos. Sounds like exactly what you're looking for. On Jun 13, 7:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
ah.. i had forgotten the not-Amos. that or a SimpleOne will prob be my next, then.. thanks! andrew On Jun 14, 2010, at 11:37 AM, Jeremy Till wrote: Don't forget the upcoming Rivendell/Soma collaboration (Amos?)- basically a road bike for 57mm calipers (like Ram, Rom, and Roadeo) with the expanded geos. Sounds like exactly what you're looking for. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
you might find a subtle, yet fine difference with an off the rack Gunnar Sport...with a carbon fork. i think bikes with longer chainstays seem slower. the Sport is just a bit shorter that way and the geometry is a tad more upright in the front and about the same in the seat tube compared to the Sam. i just got one. i ordered mine with threaded steel fork and love the ride. with a carbon fork it might just feel that much more spritely. mine currently sports 32 hole open pros on ultegra hubs and the ruffy tires. it would be fun to try a carbon fork and some michelin pro race 23 tires just to see if the personality changes a bit. just some thoughts from my recent experiences. On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our forward movement. Thus, the point of having less spokes is about aerodynamics, NOT weight. As for ultralight tubes, any time saved because they are lighter and offer less rolling resistance is probably negligible, especially when compared to the time lost to the higher frequency of punctures they will provide. - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CA http://www.XO-1.org http://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
I don't want to get into a 2nd hand argument with Eric Hjertberg about aerodynamics of spokes, but I would suggest that the OP is riding a Hillborne (not the usual choice for the TT crowd) and that he just did his first century with relatively large, heavy touring tires. I'm sure there are at least a dozen things he could do to refine his technique or free/cheap ways to make his bike faster that would have more effect than cutting the aero drag of a few spokes. But now that you mentioned it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests, except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of spokes. I have an academic background in fluid mechanics for whatever that's worth (not much), and based on no data, I believe the aerodynamic effect of a few spokes is negligible. But I've been wrong before. I don't believe ultralight tubes get punctured more often. If something sharp goes through the tire, it'll most likely poke a hole in any tube, regardless of whether that tube is ultralight or normal thickness. I've been using UL tubes for a couple years, with no noticeable increase in my flat-rate. Nothing fancy, just Kenda or QBP- brand lightweight tubes. Curiously, probably because a lot of people are leery of lightweight tubes, I often find them cheaper than regular tubes. On Jun 14, 9:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com wrote: Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our forward movement. Thus, the point of having less spokes is about aerodynamics, NOT weight. As for ultralight tubes, any time saved because they are lighter and offer less rolling resistance is probably negligible, especially when compared to the time lost to the higher frequency of punctures they will provide. - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
FWIW, my buddy uses 26 tubes in his 29er wheels. They're lighter than 29er UL tubes (and half the cost) as well as the tubeless fluids/strips. He's pretty happy with his set up, and doesn't puncture very often. He says it's not a hassle to mount them, but YMMV. On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 8:30 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: I don't want to get into a 2nd hand argument with Eric Hjertberg about aerodynamics of spokes, but I would suggest that the OP is riding a Hillborne (not the usual choice for the TT crowd) and that he just did his first century with relatively large, heavy touring tires. I'm sure there are at least a dozen things he could do to refine his technique or free/cheap ways to make his bike faster that would have more effect than cutting the aero drag of a few spokes. But now that you mentioned it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests, except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of spokes. I have an academic background in fluid mechanics for whatever that's worth (not much), and based on no data, I believe the aerodynamic effect of a few spokes is negligible. But I've been wrong before. I don't believe ultralight tubes get punctured more often. If something sharp goes through the tire, it'll most likely poke a hole in any tube, regardless of whether that tube is ultralight or normal thickness. I've been using UL tubes for a couple years, with no noticeable increase in my flat-rate. Nothing fancy, just Kenda or QBP- brand lightweight tubes. Curiously, probably because a lot of people are leery of lightweight tubes, I often find them cheaper than regular tubes. On Jun 14, 9:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com wrote: Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our forward movement. Thus, the point of having less spokes is about aerodynamics, NOT weight. As for ultralight tubes, any time saved because they are lighter and offer less rolling resistance is probably negligible, especially when compared to the time lost to the higher frequency of punctures they will provide. - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Now that you mention Jan Heine, today I received my BQ for the summer of 2010 and in it, there is a very interesting article and discussion regarding whether modern bicycles are actually faster than older ones based on an analysis of Tour de France speed. I haven't read it yet, just finished browsing the magazine, but so far it seems to be one of those pieces that will give some people a lot of debate hours... :-) I won't spoil the article for those who will want to read it, but as always, it makes for a very interesting read and analysis. Now that I can no longer relate to the commercial magazines like Bicycling, RBA, etc., getting BQ and/or a Riv Reader are festive occasions. René -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
We use UL 26x2.4-2.7 tubes in Surly Endomorph/Larry 26x3.7 tires. Saves about a pound per wheel over the standard tube. Haven't had one of these flat yet. On Jun 14, 11:01 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: FWIW, my buddy uses 26 tubes in his 29er wheels. They're lighter than 29er UL tubes (and half the cost) as well as the tubeless fluids/strips. He's pretty happy with his set up, and doesn't puncture very often. He says it's not a hassle to mount them, but YMMV. On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 8:30 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: I don't want to get into a 2nd hand argument with Eric Hjertberg about aerodynamics of spokes, but I would suggest that the OP is riding a Hillborne (not the usual choice for the TT crowd) and that he just did his first century with relatively large, heavy touring tires. I'm sure there are at least a dozen things he could do to refine his technique or free/cheap ways to make his bike faster that would have more effect than cutting the aero drag of a few spokes. But now that you mentioned it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests, except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of spokes. I have an academic background in fluid mechanics for whatever that's worth (not much), and based on no data, I believe the aerodynamic effect of a few spokes is negligible. But I've been wrong before. I don't believe ultralight tubes get punctured more often. If something sharp goes through the tire, it'll most likely poke a hole in any tube, regardless of whether that tube is ultralight or normal thickness. I've been using UL tubes for a couple years, with no noticeable increase in my flat-rate. Nothing fancy, just Kenda or QBP- brand lightweight tubes. Curiously, probably because a lot of people are leery of lightweight tubes, I often find them cheaper than regular tubes. On Jun 14, 9:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com wrote: Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our forward movement. Thus, the point of having less spokes is about aerodynamics, NOT weight. As for ultralight tubes, any time saved because they are lighter and offer less rolling resistance is probably negligible, especially when compared to the time lost to the higher frequency of punctures they will provide. - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com . For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en. -- Cheers, David Redlands, CA Bicycling is a big part of the future. It has to be. There is something wrong with a society that drives a car to workout in a gym. ~Bill Nye, scientist guy -- You received this message
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
A pound per wheel... wow! On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 9:17 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: We use UL 26x2.4-2.7 tubes in Surly Endomorph/Larry 26x3.7 tires. Saves about a pound per wheel over the standard tube. Haven't had one of these flat yet. On Jun 14, 11:01 pm, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote: FWIW, my buddy uses 26 tubes in his 29er wheels. They're lighter than 29er UL tubes (and half the cost) as well as the tubeless fluids/strips. He's pretty happy with his set up, and doesn't puncture very often. He says it's not a hassle to mount them, but YMMV. On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 8:30 PM, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: I don't want to get into a 2nd hand argument with Eric Hjertberg about aerodynamics of spokes, but I would suggest that the OP is riding a Hillborne (not the usual choice for the TT crowd) and that he just did his first century with relatively large, heavy touring tires. I'm sure there are at least a dozen things he could do to refine his technique or free/cheap ways to make his bike faster that would have more effect than cutting the aero drag of a few spokes. But now that you mentioned it, maybe Jan Heine can repeat his tire rolling resistance tests, except to test the effect of different numbers and lacing patterns of spokes. I have an academic background in fluid mechanics for whatever that's worth (not much), and based on no data, I believe the aerodynamic effect of a few spokes is negligible. But I've been wrong before. I don't believe ultralight tubes get punctured more often. If something sharp goes through the tire, it'll most likely poke a hole in any tube, regardless of whether that tube is ultralight or normal thickness. I've been using UL tubes for a couple years, with no noticeable increase in my flat-rate. Nothing fancy, just Kenda or QBP- brand lightweight tubes. Curiously, probably because a lot of people are leery of lightweight tubes, I often find them cheaper than regular tubes. On Jun 14, 9:05 pm, XO-1.org Rough Riders adventureco...@gmail.com wrote: Eric Hjertberg, who knows more about wheels than the rest of the planet combined, told me that the combined frontal area of 36 spokes is more than the bicycle frame itself, plus the spokes are spinning through the air as the bike moves forward, further adding drag to our forward movement. Thus, the point of having less spokes is about aerodynamics, NOT weight. As for ultralight tubes, any time saved because they are lighter and offer less rolling resistance is probably negligible, especially when compared to the time lost to the higher frequency of punctures they will provide. - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CAhttp://www.XO-1.orghttp://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 14, 6:39 pm, Jim Thill - Hiawatha Cyclery thill@gmail.com wrote: The spoke count matters very little compared to the weight of the tire/ tube/rim combination. You can save a bunch of rolling weight and probably improve rolling resistance, for example, simply by switching to an ultralight tube (I almost always use ultralight tubes). You save even more rolling weight by switching to any of the 200-250-ish gram 25-28 mm tires on the market. If you go with new wheels, I second an earlier recommendation of the Velocity Aerohead. Lacing radial in the front and half-radial in the back probably saves as much spoke weight as going to an exotically low number of spokes (exotic in the sense that there aren't many economical 24h hubs). You could even splurge on DT Revolution butted spokes if you wanna go crazy. Buying expensive lightweight hubs and cassettes will give you considerably less bang for your buck. Also: Consider ways to improve aerodynamics, reduce the number and duration of stops, work on eating/drinking on the bike without stopping, etc. Or, my favorite solution: reject the dominant racing paradigm and embrace your slowness! On Jun 14, 12:39 am, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com . To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com rbw-owners-bunch%2bunsubscr...@googlegroups.comrbw-owners-bunch%252bunsubscr...@googlegroups.com
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
If you like your Sam, you may be able to get the extra boost you want for cheap with an event wheel set. You do not say what you are using currently, but if it is optimal for commuting, it is a probably heavier with wider tires. Get your favorite hubsets in 32h configuration, match them to a set of Velocity Aerohead rims, and finish it off with a good lightweight tire such as the Schwalbe Durano or Marathon Racer if you ride somewhere flats are a problem or the real light Ultermos if your roads are good. Hang this set in your storage area for all but events and the occasional training ride. Going this route will save you money, allow you to ride your favorite bike on long events where comfort and familiarity are important, yet still make a real difference. Or you can buy and build up a Roadeo ;) On Jun 13, 9:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
Seems to me that the Sam would be just fine for both, unless you have a heavy rack/heavy tires on it. I wanted a fast-ish, stripped-down skinny tire bike and found an old Trek on Craiglist for $120. Lots of great deals out there for nice old steel bikes. Ryan On Jun 13, 7:46 pm, JoelMatthews joelmatth...@mac.com wrote: If you like your Sam, you may be able to get the extra boost you want for cheap with an event wheel set. You do not say what you are using currently, but if it is optimal for commuting, it is a probably heavier with wider tires. Get your favorite hubsets in 32h configuration, match them to a set of Velocity Aerohead rims, and finish it off with a good lightweight tire such as the Schwalbe Durano or Marathon Racer if you ride somewhere flats are a problem or the real light Ultermos if your roads are good. Hang this set in your storage area for all but events and the occasional training ride. Going this route will save you money, allow you to ride your favorite bike on long events where comfort and familiarity are important, yet still make a real difference. Or you can buy and build up a Roadeo ;) On Jun 13, 9:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
[RBW] Re: what would make the best..
I would recommend some lighter, and more importantly, far more aero wheels. In this day and age, such wheels, with, for example, 24 spokes front and rear, are totally bomber if you buy from a reputable brand. I have ridden piles of miles on such wheels in the dirt, without a hitch. Cyclocross racers and lots of other heavy users rides wheels like these all the time. (For that matter, I was riding 24 spokes, front and rear, way back in 1985 and raced RAAM in 1987 with 20 spokes front and 24 spokes rear. I have never broken a spoke in any of these wheels and get out a spoke wrench maybe once a year. I weigh 172 and am six foot.) The wheels made today have really optimized the weigh / aeroness factor the max. Truly, except for maybe 100-milers on dirt, or people who weight 250+ pounds, or fully loaded touring, the case for 32 spoke wheels doesn't exist anymore. Here's a good example of what I'd suggest, and they're only $300: http://www.ritcheylogic.com/dyn_prodfamily.php?k=355378 You can see something similar on my Roadeo here: http://www.xo-1.org/2010/03/rough-riding-in-snow-mount-laguna.html You put those 24 spoke Ritchey wheels on your Sam Hillborne with some high-performance tyres and you are going to be shocked at the difference, in a very good way. Of course, I still believe in keeping wheels like these just for special occasions, events, epics, etc. I say that not because the wheels can't handle year-round use - they can - but because you'll appreciate them more if you don't use them all the time. (It's kind of like baseball batters swinging with two bats while warming up.) Train / ride / commute on heavy-duty 32 hole wheels, then use these special wheels when it's appropriate. (It bugs the crap out of me that modern road bikes are sold with full-blown racing wheels as the OEM wheel.) - Chris Kostman La Jolla, CA http://www.XO-1.org http://www.adventurecorps.com On Jun 13, 7:17 pm, andrew hill neurod...@gmail.com wrote: hi folks, i loved riding my first century recently, on a Sam Hillborne, but it was a pretty slow (though mostly comfortable) push. so the way i have it set up it's excellent for city commuting and loaded touring / randonneuring, but still think i want a gofast for club/training rides, built up with lighter wheels/rubber, etc. the thing is - the expanded geometry of the Sam fits my build (and that of a few other odd ducks who have recently posted) at 5'11 with an 84.5 pbh, rounding up. so - of the current frames new or in circulation, what lightish, expandedish frame should i be looking for for? should i simply try another Sam? maybe a size down with a longer stem? :) just musing - but i figured y'all would have some opinions. thanks, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
Re: [RBW] Re: what would make the best..
thanks guys - good suggestion. i'm using Mavic rims with 36h XT hubs front and rear, with 40mm Schwalbe Mara Supremems. a lighter 32h wheelest/tires for event rides is an extremely good idea. and then i'd have one for a road-ey bike if i wanted to go more dedicated :) best, andrew -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW Owners Bunch group. To post to this group, send email to rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/rbw-owners-bunch?hl=en.
