Re: [TANKS] Down Time or Fun Time?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Unfortunately moving from MN to TX didn't put me any closer to the
battlefield.  I do have all the pieces printed for a 1/6th scale KV-1 that
was printed on my Bambu X1C and scaled up from some 1/10th scale STL
files.  Most of it is put together, just have to work out the drivetrain,
electronics, and turret rotation/elevation.

Derek

On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 1:08 PM Steve Tyng  wrote:

> I'm slowly building a new set of tracks for the Cromwell.  Hope to be
> ready for any battles this year.
>
> ST
>
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 12:11 AM 'odysseyslipw...@aol.com' via R/C Tank
> Combat  wrote:
>
>> I haven't seen or heard anything for a little while and was about to
>> start writing this email to see what's all been going on but did a quick
>> email search first and it seems I missed 2 emails, one from Calib (sp?) and
>> one from Steve but otherwise quiet.
>>
>> So with there being a bouts of down time since the start of COVID (?)
>> what's been happening? I think there was a battle or two since then iirc
>> that I couldn't get to, but has there been anything else going on?
>>
>> I know Calib (I'm sure I'm spell it wrong, sorry) was working on one or
>> two new things, the tank being one, but I thought there was something else.
>>
>> Oh, there was a tank battle (or 2?) in Gettysburg (or there abouts) I
>> remember hearing about, but other than that it seems to be quiet, either
>> that or my phone isn't listing all notifications like it should be.
>>
>> And no, I haven't gotten anything done myself.
>>
>> So are you in down time, collecting dust, waiting for the next major
>> battle? Meeting up with a few local battlers running about showing off your
>> vehicles? Or have you given up on participating but like to keep up on
>> current postings?
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> PS
>>
>> Currently watching some recordings from 2013
>>
>> Sent from AOL on Android
>> 
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Digest for rctankcombat@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

[Derek Engelhaupt]

https://www.facebook.com/groups/809524229962511

Derek

On Thu, Oct 12, 2023 at 9:37 PM 'odysseyslipw...@aol.com' via R/C Tank
Combat  wrote:

> Do you have a link to the page he made?
>
> Chris
>
> Sent from AOL on Android
> 
>
> On Thu, Oct 12, 2023 at 5:41 PM, 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat
>  wrote:
>  Congrats on everything Caleb.  We’ve not had battles in a long, long
> time.  My tank is currently gathering cobwebs , taken apart for some
> upgrades, but with no battles insight , now languishes in my basement.
> Would love to have a reason to bring the mighty PZII out of mothballs.
> Maybe a spring battle? Bob Amend created a Facebook page, he’s in PA and
> had been trying to find battle sites.
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
>
> On Thursday, October 12, 2023, 5:34 AM, rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> wrote:
>
> rctankcombat@googlegroups.com Google Groups
> 
> 
> Topic digest
> View all topics
>
>- SCC -> PAGin™ <#m_-860180622977394225_group_thread_0> - 1 Update
>
> SCC -> PAGin™
> 
> Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com>: Oct 11 08:40PM -0400
>
> It's been a rough couple years for the SCC. Suffering humiliating personnel
> shortages after the debacle known as the Zombie War and lack of defense
> contracts during Trump's era of world peace left the SCC tired,
> short-staffed, and broke. Falling back on their trusted chicken business
> till things improved, the Smith Clan was able to hang on and eventually
> rebrand their company into the now formidable PAGin™. (Pennsylvania
> Agricultural Guard inc.) Using grants supposed to fund the fight against
> the spotted lantern fly, PAGin™ has been able to build a new compound in
> the hills of Pennsylvania while expanding its tank divisions with excellent
> armor acquired from the Afghanistan black market. Business is booming.
> During all this, PAGin™ has not forgotten the atrocities committed against
> them at the hands of Tri-Pact and their cohorts. Retaliation has been the
> ever present motivation.
> There are reports of PAGin™ possibly building a dirty bomb disguised as a
> shipment of bug spray, intended for delivery to Tri-Pact headquarters
> during their annual budget banquet. The accuracy of these reports is hard
> to verify as the only information available is from migrant illegal
> immigrants doing short term ag work for the clan on their way to NYC.
> Will Tri-Pact act on these reports? Will there be conflict between these
> warring factions yet again? Only time will tell but in the meantime PAGin™
> will be sharpening their swords, ready for the day.
>
>
> What's up everyone? It's been a while and it's been so quiet here. Anyone
> out there still wanting to battle RC Tanks?
> These last two years have been busy ones for me but I'm happy to say I came
> out on the other side with a beautiful wife and a lovely piece of property
> in the hills of PA. I've got enough room here that we could have battles
> here if people want to. I'd love to host. If anyone is out there and wants
> to battle let me know and we'll see about keeping this hobby alive!
> Back to top <#m_-860180622977394225_digest_top>
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Re: [TANKS] Help needed

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Unfortunately I don't live anywhere near PA anymore or I would be
interested.

On Tue, Jan 31, 2023 at 4:13 PM 'ROBERT AMEND' via R/C Tank Combat <
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> Hello all,
> I’m in the process of reaching out to several sources in a attempt to find
> a battle site here in or around York County, Pa.
> I am contacting the Pennsylvania Game Commission about the possibility of
> using State Game Lands as a battle site as well as the Republic Landfill
> between Yorkana and Freysville, Pa.  Years ago the landfill and the Yorkana
> Fire Department allowed us to use the pond for RC Warship Combat.  They
> have grass fields surrounding the landfill that would be perfect.
> I’m looking for some good tank pictures that I can put together for a
> presentation.
> Not sure if there is still any interest in getting this going again or not?
> Thanks all,
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
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Re: [TANKS] Any life left in this group?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Still around.  I ran my 1/6th KV-2 last summer at a 1/16 tank club/RC
airplane meet and folks loved it.

On Thu, Apr 29, 2021 at 4:55 PM Steve Tyng  wrote:

> I dusted the old Cromwell off to give my gkids wagon rides around the
> yard.  Got me thinking of the old group.
>
>
> Steve T.
>
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Re: [TANKS] hello

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I completely rewired the KV-2 and beefed up the motor mounts.  I even
slapped a coat of paint on it.  It's been running well.

On Tue, Jan 5, 2021 at 9:25 PM J-MaxRC  wrote:

> Hello! I'm also still in the ''business'' of building 1/6 scale tanks! Got
> big plans to modernise my SU-76, rebuilt the T-70 (since it got pretty
> messed up at the last battle in pennsylvania And I did not do much
> since except gaterring parts for it...!), also got two other 1/6 scale
> tanks with parts and plans laying around and I got a small 1/9 scale mostly
> 3D printed T-60 light tank to work on as a prototype for 1/6 3d printed
> parts..
>
> Sadly life got in the ways for the past couple years, but with the new
> world we now live in, I might get some time to work on stuff with another
> full lock down in my place (Quebec, Canada) to be announced tomorrow...
> So. we will see!
>
> Hope that some more of you have the tank flame burning somewhere!!! Maybe
> to get more activity in the near future..!
>
> Wish everybody the best for the new weird year ahead!
>
> Jean-Maxime St-Pierre
>
> Le lun. 4 janv. 2021 à 04:47, dTs 3  a écrit :
>
>> I am definitely interested, but I didn't finish my tank before all the
>> activity died down around here 
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 1, 2020, 8:10 AM neroc1  wrote:
>>
>>> if anyone still reads this id like to say hello to my old friends.
>>> im still building 1/6th tanks in my school, i hope you guys are still
>>> interested in the hobby.
>>>
>>> Neil R
>>>
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>> .
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>
>
> --
> *Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre*
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Re: [TANKS] hello

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I'm still around.  A few months back I went to a local 1/16 tank battle day
and brought my 1/6th KV-2.  Everyone was impressed with it even though it
is a battle tank and wasn't built as a rivet counter.  Still into tanks,
but most of my tanker time is now in 1/16th scale.  Currently building an
SU-152 tank destroyer conversion on a Heng Long 1/16 KV-1.

Derek

On Sun, Nov 1, 2020 at 7:09 AM neroc1  wrote:

> if anyone still reads this id like to say hello to my old friends.
> im still building 1/6th tanks in my school, i hope you guys are still
> interested in the hobby.
>
> Neil R
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: T093 Rebuild

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Yes, looks very functional.  Good job.

Derek

On Sat, May 23, 2020 at 3:46 PM J-MaxRC  wrote:

> Thanks! Good to know!
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat., May 23, 2020, 4:35 p.m. Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Thanks, Jean. Suspension was definitely a good improvement.
>>
>> The leaf spring stock I got from McMaster. Just search "Spring Steel".
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: T093 Rebuild

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Throwing tracks could be a bunch of issues.  Could be the overall
alignment, could be the tension, could be the suspension is too loose, the
guide horns could be too small, etc.  Is it throwing them from the drive
sprocket or the idler end?  If it's on the sprocket end you could do a
channel down the middle of the sprocket or use something like the Abrams on
the outside shown in the pics.  I try to use stiffer springs on the very
front and very last suspension arms to keep track tension more consistent.
Neutral turns put a lot of lateral stress on tracks.  I haven't had any
issues with them, but I'm using steel track that has minimal lateral
movement once mounted on the tank.

On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 2:03 PM Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yeah! Loads of torque. Traction is good too. Had no trouble climbing some
> very steep, dirt grades. I'm pretty happy. Only real issue is zero turns in
> thick grass throws tracks more often than not. That is probably just the
> nature of the track design more than anything.
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: T093 Rebuild

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Nice. Looks pretty strong at 12V.

On Fri, May 1, 2020 at 1:47 PM Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Took the Locust for a test drive today. Ran at 12v just to test
> everything. It's a little slow but now that things look good it'll be wired
> for 24v.
> https://youtu.be/GBa2bsUUT6c
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: T093 Rebuild

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Just make sure the motors are really secure.  I broke my wood motor mounts
in my M113 using those motors.  They have tons of torque.  I had to
reinforce the slides around the motors in the KV-1 also.  Didn't realize
they were moving around so much until I watched them one day as I moved the
tank forward and reverse.

On Sat, Apr 25, 2020 at 8:39 PM Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Been plugging away today. Got one track done and the other over half way.
> They look really good. I'm excited to get the motors hooked up.
>
> On Saturday, April 25, 2020 at 7:46:27 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:
> > Thanks guys!
> >
> > Interesting idea, Doug. Depending on the shape of your part it might
> work. The one concern that comes to mind is the micro-ridges from the
> layers. I wonder if they might keep the part from coming out, and since the
> mold will be solid it won't bend out to release the part. Maybe a two piece
> mold? Idk. If you try it out be sure to share the results!
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Exploration into use of FDM 3D printing to facilitate ease of entry into the hobby of 1/6th scale RC tank combat.

[Derek Engelhaupt]

A 3D printed tank body could be reinforced from the inside where it can be
as ugly as you want it to be.  I still like building from PVC sheets.  Cuts
with my woodworking tools, easily glued with PVC glue, can be screwed
together, and smooth surface unlike wood.

On Wed, Apr 22, 2020 at 5:40 PM Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Yeah, I built a Locust with a lot of 3d printed parts. Currently working
> on replacing all those parts with cast plastic or wood. They just don't
> hold up to the beating these tanks get. I wouldn't count on a 3d printed
> tank body lasting long unless you babied it, and that's no fun.
> On the other hand, 3d printers are great for making masters to cast parts
> out of plastic. Or for making low stress mounts in the hull or turret. I
> doubt you could make a 3d printer hull that's stronger and cheaper than
> plain plywood.
> Those are my thoughts anyways. 3d printing definitely has a lot of uses in
> this hobby, but structural parts isn't one of them, imo.
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Exploration into use of FDM 3D printing to facilitate ease of entry into the hobby of 1/6th scale RC tank combat.

[Derek Engelhaupt]

There is a guy 3D printing a 1/6th scale Hetzer in the R/C forums.  He is
doing it slices that fit on his printer.

On Wed, Apr 1, 2020 at 5:55 PM Loren  wrote:

> A lot of what you're looking at is available in better forms for decent
> cost, as Doug says.  The big parts that give the trouble are the body of
> the tank itself, which really needs to be printed in sections(if in
> sections at all) much larger than the 8 inches most FDM printers provide.
> Larger printers are available, but by the time one buys one, gets it going
> well, and prints out a tank, you are one or two premade tanks' worth of
> money in the hole.  Might as well just buy an FOA or other tank as a kit or
> ready to go, especially since very few people will be building the numbers
> to really justify such.
>
> I've waffled a few times between printing tanks, and using vacuum/pressure
> forming as is the current plan if I ever get to setting up production.  It
> means less tooling, but big prints like that are tricky.
>
> On Monday, March 23, 2020 at 12:54:27 PM UTC-4, ~D wrote:
>>
>> The most likely reason for this hobby becoming so sparse is not lack
>> of interest,but availability and expertise. Implementation of simple
>> pre-designed Lego like parts that are easily printed and assembled into a
>> variety of vehicle designs may bring this amazing hobby back into the
>> light. Cost reduction and simplification of assembly should be priorities
>> to this end. The use of Fused Deposition Manufacturing [FDM] integrating
>> ready available sub-assemblies to create drive units and actuators is
>> becoming more readily available. These larger sub-assemblies have highly
>> reduced cost,as well as near infinite compatibility with existing models.
>> Drive units,suspension modules, turret slewing and elevation systems as
>> well as brackets,ammunition feed systems and exterior cosmetics can all be
>> printed using this hybrid technique. Below you can find a summery of my
>> ongoing preliminary investigation into the use of such hybrid manufacturing
>> for my own future model of an STRV 103 series,with the intent of increasing
>> performance and decreasing both complexity and cost through the use of such
>> hybrid sub-assemblies as well as 3rd party research and improvements in
>> this and other hobbies in regards to design,construction,drive systems and
>> accuracy improvements in CO2 and HPA markers. Feedback on first hand
>> experience is welcome.
>>
>>
>>- weather resistance of PLA -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qqNfa_zExRU
>>- use of First Strike ammunition in conjunction with rifled barrel -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ky2gRvlXyts
>>- in field dispersion testing of First Strike ammunition -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h5hj5ch65jY
>>- use of Caliburn piston HPA system to increase fps consistency over
>>long duration engagements -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJawWukCiLc
>>- high torque resilience of non carbon enhanced FDM planetary
>>reduction gearboxes - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b6cDOyxub8w
>>- example of proper integration of off the shelf parts into FDM
>>design - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ARC0Y1lBliA
>>- use of ODrive FDM brushless servo controller -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p4ltHDpxrbI
>>- example of FDM suspension scheme identical to RIPSAW M5 -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Hre_XfxGAc
>>- testing of ODrive torque -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bKqYYjGzpCY
>>- Maker Muscle in conjunction with ODrive (example of high precision
>>and torque elevation actuators) -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-bgA7qBXzs
>>- use of planetary gearbox in conjunction with ODrive brushless servo
>>- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O0yX0r1Kpeg
>>- ODrive in conjunction to FDM Cycloidal gearbox -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tST3XyFaBoc
>>- OpenTorque Actuator in conjunction with higher torque brushless
>>motor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hd54ik_45Wo
>>- ODrive powered tracked vehicle under load -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qEw5_thTD6o
>>- use of ODrive in larger scale RC -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z10OV4fm4Nw
>>- further torque testing of ODrive -
>>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EhJa8kdkzRY
>>- FDM brushless motor - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFvMC3l3fGY
>>
>> ~D
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: where is everyone?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I got laid off from GM in Feb, but found a better paying job.  It did take
3 months though. Luckily I got a severance to tide me over.

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019, 8:32 PM odysseyslipways via R/C Tank Combat <
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> i hear ya, i have been looking for work for a few weeks now, unless you
> have a CDL or are a RN your out of luck and i can still hear my bank
> account bouncing...
>
> chris
>
> In a message dated 10/22/2019 1:52:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tigertank...@gmail.com writes:
>
> All,
>
>
> This is Stu Cameron, in Severna Park MD.  I still have most of three tanks
> laying around doing nothing.  I could have T-047 and a Stuart M5A1
> operational in a week or two, but the M4A1 Sherman is still in the rough
> prototype phase.  I have been bogged down by other expenses and hobbies
> (for most of the last 15 years).  As tank events are few and far between, I
> wait for an event/deadline to inspire me to get off my butt and go to war.
>
> Stu
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: where is everyone?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

My tanks are in the garage gathering dust.  I worked on my KV-2 a
while back, but since there is no hope of ever battling here in TX I have
been working on my 1/16 scale R/C IR tanks.  The Sturmtiger is in a
non-running state right now.

Derek

On Tue, Oct 22, 2019 at 1:56 PM A Martin 
wrote:

> I'm still here lurking in the background, telling myself one day soon I
> will build one, slowly gathering bits, but with a house extension I'm
> building, a property in France I'm renovating and two young children not to
> mention trying to stay in the other half's good books, me time is on an all
> time low lol
>
> Regards
>
> Al
>
> Sent from my Xperia by Sony smartphone
>
>
>  Stu Cameron wrote 
>
> I still have three tanks in various states of repair.
> T-047 and my M5A1 could be running in a few weeks, but the M4A1 is still
> an early prototype.
> They don't do well just sitting on a shelf (and I have been working on
> houses, motorcycles and Star Wars stuff), so I am waiting for an RC Tank
> event to justify getting them up and running.
>
> Stu
>
> On Monday, October 21, 2019 at 5:52:27 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> i have only seen maybe 3 or 4 people posting in here over that last few
>> months?
>>
>> so where is everyone?
>>
>> still there but life getting in the way? gone off to some FaceBook page?
>> or just given up on the hobby?
>>
>> chris
>>
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] A bit quiet recently...!

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I was recently playing with adding an Open Panzer TCB controller to my KV-2
so it could have sound and other features, but it didn't play will with my
Vantec RDFR36 ESC.  Other than that my time has been trying to find a new
job after my layoff from GM a month ago.  Been more focused on my 1/16
scale tanks since there is a IR battle club not far from me here in Austin.

On Mon, Apr 1, 2019 at 7:44 PM Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> The "Smith" Clan is still alive and well despite all efforts to shut us
> down by Tri-Pact and their compadres. Unfortunately with peace prevailing
> as of late the government has been very lax in defence spending leaving the
> vaunted Locust in disrepair. We've managed to keep the feared 25-pounder in
> front line condition just in case Tri-Pact decided to break out into the
> North. We hope they will not be that foolish.
> As before mentioned deceased government spending has also led to the
> layoff of our incredible employees, halting all construction on further
> assets. We've managed to hang onto several engineers though who work daily
> in their underground lab to design the next great fighting machine for the
> futherment of the "Smith" Clan's mission. If war becomes evident, we will
> be forced to bring these machines to fruition which will spell doom for
> Tri-Pact who can neither withstand the quality and quantity of the entire
> "Smith" Clan fury.
>
> Yours faithfully,
> Agent "Smith"
>
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[TANKS] T038 being sold?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Looks like Marty is thinning the herd...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Scratch-built-model-tank-1-6-Scale-paintball-shooting/273356286397?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

http://www.rctankcombat.com/order-of-battle/tanks/T038/

Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Where is everyone?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I'm showing it not resolving also...

On Tue, Jan 2, 2018 at 3:46 PM, J-MaxRC <jmaxh...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Is it only us or the RC tank warfare website is down??
>
> J-MaxRC
>
> On Jan 1, 2018 1:24 PM, "Derek Engelhaupt" <tan...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> I've been playing more in the world of 1/16 scale since its more common
>> here in Texas. As far as an R/C interface goes I've been playing with an
>> open source  board from Open Panzer called the TCB. It interfaces with
>> external ESCs and can use SBUS or PWM inputs.  I recently bought a Taranis
>> Q X7 SBUS radio to play with it. Only issue using it on a large tank would
>> be input power needs to be under 15V.  A small 7.2 NiCD pack works great
>> since that's what it was designed for. Boards are being sold through
>> HobbyKing for $50.
>>
>> On Dec 31, 2017 8:52 PM, "Caleb Smith" <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I'm afraid the lack of battles is my fault. The Smith clan gave the
>>> Pitteli bag'o ruffians such a thrashing in that last event that they've
>>> been hiding in their basements ever since, refusing to fight. Sorry guys.
>>>
>>> On a side note, the Smith clan hasn't expanded its arsenal since last
>>> event. (with the lack of opposition why should we) The Locust still needs
>>> some driveline help. I tried switching to different motors for more torque
>>> but they're way too fast and need a lot of gearing down to be practical.
>>> Since then I've found that the reason the original motors were stalling
>>> often is they don't like the HobbyKing brushless controllers I was using. I
>>> tested them using a brushless scooter controller and the motors have loads
>>> more torque and don't stall. I just need to configure some kind of control
>>> interface since they're not RC controllers. Maybe I'll start another thread
>>> on that. So I'll be working on putting the old motors back in.
>>> The 25 pounder is still ready to defend the homeland. The Pak36 will
>>> probably be converted into some kind of turreted German naval gun as the
>>> Pak36 was too hard to fit and hide a lot of the stuff.
>>> Anyway, that's a little bit of what's going on. Looking back, I'm OK
>>> with not having any battles this year. The tank was in disrepair and time
>>> was limited. This year should be better plus I'll have a bigger budget to
>>> put towards gear.  Hopefully we'll all see each other come spring and make
>>> more memories.
>>> Don't stay up too late. ;)
>>> Agent Smith
>>>
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Re: [TANKS] Where is everyone?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I've been playing more in the world of 1/16 scale since its more common
here in Texas. As far as an R/C interface goes I've been playing with an
open source  board from Open Panzer called the TCB. It interfaces with
external ESCs and can use SBUS or PWM inputs.  I recently bought a Taranis
Q X7 SBUS radio to play with it. Only issue using it on a large tank would
be input power needs to be under 15V.  A small 7.2 NiCD pack works great
since that's what it was designed for. Boards are being sold through
HobbyKing for $50.

On Dec 31, 2017 8:52 PM, "Caleb Smith" <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm afraid the lack of battles is my fault. The Smith clan gave the
> Pitteli bag'o ruffians such a thrashing in that last event that they've
> been hiding in their basements ever since, refusing to fight. Sorry guys.
>
> On a side note, the Smith clan hasn't expanded its arsenal since last
> event. (with the lack of opposition why should we) The Locust still needs
> some driveline help. I tried switching to different motors for more torque
> but they're way too fast and need a lot of gearing down to be practical.
> Since then I've found that the reason the original motors were stalling
> often is they don't like the HobbyKing brushless controllers I was using. I
> tested them using a brushless scooter controller and the motors have loads
> more torque and don't stall. I just need to configure some kind of control
> interface since they're not RC controllers. Maybe I'll start another thread
> on that. So I'll be working on putting the old motors back in.
> The 25 pounder is still ready to defend the homeland. The Pak36 will
> probably be converted into some kind of turreted German naval gun as the
> Pak36 was too hard to fit and hide a lot of the stuff.
> Anyway, that's a little bit of what's going on. Looking back, I'm OK with
> not having any battles this year. The tank was in disrepair and time was
> limited. This year should be better plus I'll have a bigger budget to put
> towards gear.  Hopefully we'll all see each other come spring and make more
> memories.
> Don't stay up too late. ;)
> Agent Smith
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Pin Drop...

[Derek Engelhaupt]

They user's vehicles are missing from all the categories and not just the
tanks

On Wed, Jul 12, 2017 at 3:17 PM, Stu  wrote:

> I haven't seen any mail in a while, and now the individual tanks are
>> missing from:
>> http://www.rctankcombat.com/order-of-battle/tanks/
>
>
> I hope all is well.
>
> Stu
>
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Re: [TANKS] Pin Drop...

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I went through several suspension iterations before finding one that worked
well.

On Jun 20, 2017 8:58 PM, "Caleb Smith" <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Heh, hear you on the the suspension. Same way with my Locust. I wanted to
> do suspension, but when I got down to actually implementing it I said
> "forget it!" and went with solid axles. I didn't really want to do it, but
> I got on the battlefield much faster. And my tank can still tear it up with
> the best of them even though it doesn't have suspension. ;)
>
> On Tuesday, June 20, 2017 at 9:04:22 AM UTC-4, Ghost Division wrote:
>>
>> Work and life has kept me from moving forward on my jagdtiger. I am ready
>> for assembly of the lower hull but I am stuck on the suspension; I'm just
>> not sure how to make it look right and function properly. I think I would
>> just say the heck with it and go solid axels if it wasn't so big. My new
>> garage is in and my workbench almost completed; I hope to make some major
>> progress over the next month.
>>
>> Pat
>>
>> On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 4:07 PM, Derek Engelhaupt <tan...@gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Busy working and my company is in the middle of selling off all its
>>> European factories so I'm quite busy with that.  No one in Austin to
>>> paintball tank with so my tanks just sit 3/4 finished.  Contemplating
>>> selling them off or parting them out to be honest...
>>>
>>> On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 2:57 PM, Caleb Smith <3219...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anybody hear it? Sooo quite around here lately. Anything great going
>>>> on?
>>>> I'm afraid my tank is in a sorry state right now. I replaced the drive
>>>> motors and transmission, which are working great, but the tracks need work
>>>> and the turret needs all the systems replaced. Also need to reattach the
>>>> fender that Frank broke off last year. Other than that though, the Locust
>>>> is ready to defend SCC freedom.
>>>> How's everybody else doing? Survive the winter?
>>>> C
>>>>
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Re: [TANKS] Pin Drop...

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Busy working and my company is in the middle of selling off all its
European factories so I'm quite busy with that.  No one in Austin to
paintball tank with so my tanks just sit 3/4 finished.  Contemplating
selling them off or parting them out to be honest...

On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 2:57 PM, Caleb Smith <3219ca...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Anybody hear it? Sooo quite around here lately. Anything great going on?
> I'm afraid my tank is in a sorry state right now. I replaced the drive
> motors and transmission, which are working great, but the tracks need work
> and the turret needs all the systems replaced. Also need to reattach the
> fender that Frank broke off last year. Other than that though, the Locust
> is ready to defend SCC freedom.
> How's everybody else doing? Survive the winter?
> C
>
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Re: [TANKS] motor choice

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Yes, will work great.  Same or very similar to the motors Joe used to sell
as the M-01 model.

On Mon, Aug 29, 2016 at 11:00 AM,  wrote:

> Would this be an appropriate motor?
>
> http://m.ebay.com/itm/24-Volt-350-Watt-Motor-Gear-Reduction-
> Razor-Dirt-Quad-Scooter-24V-350W-U-ST11-/151952094210?nav=SEARCH
>
> Thanks
>
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Re: [TANKS] Multiple receivers for one 2.4 GHz transmitter

[Derek Engelhaupt]

As far as I know...yes.  You can bind multiple receivers to one
transmitter.

On Aug 19, 2016 10:43 AM, "Mike Lyons"  wrote:

> I believe T040  and
> the new SCC field gun
> have two independent R/C receivers
> operated from a single transmitter.
>
> Is this possible using the "latest and greatest" 2.4 GHz technology
> where a receiver is "bound" to a transmitter using a little dongle
> and the receiver retains that binding?
>
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RE: [TANKS] Rookie primer

[Derek Engelhaupt]

The "v" shapes (chevrons) are used to designate which platoon the tank
belongs to on US vehicles. May be used for the same function in the Israeli
Army.  The brits have used the chevrons when they are in joint ops with US
forces.  Friend or foe is usually accomplished by CIP (slatted combat
identification panel on the sides of the tank or turret).

On Aug 10, 2016 4:28 PM, "Loic"  wrote:

> No sure if I have a “say” in this discussion since I’m not coming to the
> battle, but a very practical and simple system is the *VELCRO*.
>
>
>
> It has a sticky side, and the Velcro hook/loop on the other side. If you
> put a dark red/dark blue patch on the 1”x1” Velcro, it can be EASILY
> removed and exchanged with the proper color before the battle as the teams
> are organized.
>
>
>
> One on the upper right hull corner, one on the rear. Neither on turrets
> since they rotate.
>
>
>
> One advantage: no recognition on the sides might slow engagement until IFF
> is made (Identification: Friend or Foe). IFF is an actual appendage of real
> combat.
>
>
>
> Another advantage: all units have unit markings. Israelis have V shapes in
> all directions. This appendage does not distract from reality
>
>
>
>
>
> Flags can fall, especially on underbrush, and exchanging flag color can be
> cumbersome
>
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Upcoming Battle

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Don't think I've even touched my vehicles in 2 years.  No one to play with
here in Austin, Texas...

On Thu, Jul 14, 2016 at 9:14 AM, Frank Pittelli 
wrote:

> "using the time to perfect their weapon platforms" ???
>
> I'm just hoping that the Semovente can still drive around.  Shooting
> things will be a bonus :-)
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] These funny little flying things

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Actually I believe that even though the FAA ruling has passed, they have
put the implementation on hold pending further review.

Derek

On Mon, Jan 4, 2016 at 8:53 AM, neroc1 <
funkyneroc%ntlworld@gtempaccount.com> wrote:

>
> Tod thanks for the advice, I thought there would be problems  but I didnt
>> think it`d be that serious.
>>
>
>   Maybe this can go in the "more dumb ideas" bin.
>
>   Neil R
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: C.T.D. CANADIAN TANK DIVISION aka NORTHEN BARBARIANS ON FACEBOOK

[Derek Engelhaupt]

If you leave it open you will get tons of spammers...
On Dec 3, 2015 9:18 PM, "Robert Currie"  wrote:

> Hi its a open group on facebook
>   just search on facebook ---> C.T.D. CANADIAN TANK DIVISION
> aka. "NORTHERN BARBARIANS"
> Cick Join
>
>
> On Thu, Dec 3, 2015 at 8:54 AM, Cold comfort  wrote:
>
>> Do you have a link? Tried using facebook and google and could not find it.
>>
>> Greg
>>
>>
>> On Saturday, November 28, 2015 at 3:29:03 PM UTC-4, Robert Currie wrote:
>>
>>> Hello All Canadian RC Combat Tankers
>>>
>>>I have started a C.T.D. Team Page on Facebook sign up  post your
>>> progress, problems, plans,
>>>
>>>
>>> 
>>>
>>>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I am using 40 Pitch table top chain on the M113.  It's been pretty reliable
using a single chain down the center, but between all the time I spent in
Afghanistan and now working a lot I haven't run the M113 in years.  The
chain has a lot of help since it runs between all of the road wheels on the
M113.  The new PVC chassis for the M113 is still sitting in my garage
un-assembled.  It threw a track once, but that was also the time when the
motor mount let loose inside the tank and broke.  Been looking for other
track options for it, but it's tough because the steel track I want isn't
small enough, but I think I could cut it down some and get it to work.

Derek

On Mon, Nov 30, 2015 at 10:57 AM, Frank Pittelli 
wrote:

> I don't think I've heard or seen anyone using 2040 chain for tracks, so
> not really sure how well or not that design would work.
>
> Back in the early days of the hobby, Mike Blattau used #40 attachment
> links with riveted plastic track pads to build a track for a lightweight
> vehicle.  He used a single chain for each track, with standard #40 drive
> and idler sprockets.  Unfortunately, he never tested the completed vehicle
> in battlefield conditions, so we can't be sure how well it performed. My
> conjecture is that the track would have been reliable with the proper
> tension on fixed axles with double road wheels.  A suspension system starts
> to complicate things and I'm not sure if the #40 sprocket teeth alone would
> keep the track from coming off in a hard, bumpy turn.
>
> Welding pads to a 2040 link would be roughly the same design, so my best
> guess is that the track would work fine on fixed axles and would be
> questionable on a suspension system.
>
> In general, the main concern when using chains as a track drive mechanism
> is to ensure that the chain is well-aligned even when turning.  Large links
> like #2060 are so stiff that they don't need any road wheels at all to stay
> aligned (Will's SU100 runs around quite well with missing road wheels).
> Smaller #40 links, however, have enough lateral flexibility that the road
> wheels need to keep them aligned.  On fixed axles, the proper track tension
> with dual road wheels usually works effectively to keep the chains aligned
> with the sprockets (which is why most heavy tracked vehicles use fixed
> axles).  On suspended axles, track tension varies dynamically, so the road
> wheels alone are needed to keep the chain aligned. Unfortunately, #40 chain
> links aren't really tall enough or have the right cross-section to do the
> job properly.  The addition of guide teeth can solve the problem, but now
> the "simplicity" of the chain design is lost.  Tracks with two drive chains
> make the matter even worse, providing twice the probability of throwing a
> track.
>
>
> On 11/28/2015 3:08 PM, Aaron Stern wrote:
>
>> Frank, I saw your comment on experience with different roller chain.
>> Have you seen anything regarding using 2040 single chain (double
>> pitch #40) with metal flats welded across the chain faces (for an
>> effect similar to the super expensive 2040 flange chain)?  My plan
>> was to use a lathe to turn the wheels so that the metal flats will
>> rest againt the wheel and the chain will ride inside of a groove in
>> the wheel...
>>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Track System

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I was using two 50 pitch chains on a 4" track.  Still have the tracks and
one day I'd like to play with using solid blocks to see if the extra
stiffness makes the track reliable, but that is a really low priority for
me.  Between motorcycle track days, my new touring bike, building
furniture, and a girlfriend I really haven't had any time to work on my
tanks.  Some of my furniture projects are coming to a close so I've
actually been gathering materials to finally finish my KV-2.  Just bought
some 8000mAH LiPo batteries, some 8 and 10 guage wire, connectors, and
charger so I am going to get it running again soon.  Most of the work I
have left to do is finishing work.  Gotta break the whole tank down and
glue all the PVC together, fill the holes, build some detail items, and
paint.  The running gear is solid and tracks reliable at this point.  The
new batteries sure free up A LOT of space in the tank and weight.

Derek

On Thu, Oct 29, 2015 at 3:09 PM, Frank Pittelli <frank.pitte...@gmail.com>
wrote:

> Derek's experience is the rule, not the exception.
>
> Based on my experience (which goes back to the original dual-chain bicycle
> track) and the collective experience of everyone who has built, tested and
> battled such designs in the last 15 years, the dual-chain design is far
> more problematic than either a single-chain design or a link-drive design.
> Lateral forces on the track immediately cause the chains to skew, which
> increases the likelihood of jumping one of the chains off a sprocket tooth
> in rough terrain.  Guide horns help decrease the likelihood, but doesn't
> decrease it enough to make the tracks reliable enough in our world (which
> is, by far, the toughest test of scale tracks).
>
> When it comes to chain designs, size matters.  Based on quite a few people
> who have tried such an approach over the years, #40 chain is too small and
> not rigid enough to be used as either a single-chain or dual-chain track
> design in our operating scale and terrain.  On the other hand, #60 chain is
> so rigid that it has proven very reliable when used in a single-chain
> design, thereby eliminating the need for a dual-chain design.
>
> That said, the design being discussed is the first time someone has used
> pins that go from one side of the track to the other, using the track pad
> itself to keep the pins parallel.  This *could* provide the rigidity needed
> to prevent chain skew in a hard turn, thereby preventing a dreaded
> derailment.  I say *could* because it all comes down to the stiffness of
> the plastic pads and the amount of sideways movement allowed between the
> pads and the pins.  No amount of calculation or workbench testing will
> provide the required answers.  The track needs to be installed on a tank
> chassis and driven through the roughest terrain possible by an operator
> skilled in abusing vehicles to determine if the design is reliable or not.
>
> Battlefield-tested isn't a marketing slogan.
>
> On 10/29/2015 12:26 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>
>> I believe I said the tracks might have issues staying on since they are
>> similar to my design that I abandoned because they didn't stay on in
>> high stress due to lack of the center guides.  Even with the center
>> guides, mine flexed too much side to side so they still came off the
>> sprockets.
>>
>
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RE: [TANKS] Re: Successor of Talon

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I'm assuming they won't work because a brushless ESC won't work with the
brushed motors you are using in the tanks.
On Oct 9, 2015 11:20 AM, "Loic"  wrote:

> Steve, so I cannot use these ESC as is? Why would “Brushless be bad for
> our application?
>
> I’ve ordered a few of these controller from your link, I’ve also inquired
> from the company in Australia. I hope I get the PWM input on these (the
> photo did not cover the connectors), because the Talon SRX does not have
> the right input for the controller wire, and they have a full page of how
> to install the PWM wire… this is crazy that they have another input
>
>
>
> Loic
>
>
>
> *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *TyngTech
> *Sent:* Friday, October 9, 2015 8:12 AM
> *To:* R/C Tank Combat
> *Subject:* [TANKS] Re: Successor of Talon
>
>
>
> This company is taking Turnigy 85A brushless controllers and modding them
> for brushed.  It involves reflashing with new code and removing one of the
> motor leads.
>
>
>
> http://botbitz.com.au/index.php?route=product/product=60_id=52
>
>
>
> The stock controller from HK:
> http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__10331__Turnigy_Brushless_ESC_85A_w_5A_SBEC.html
>
>
>
> I'd consider finding the OEM of the product and see if they would produce
> brushed versions for you.  The code to do so is open source and freely
> available.
>
>
>
> ST
>
> On Thursday, October 8, 2015 at 1:02:09 PM UTC-4, Loic atFOA wrote:
>
>
>
>
> 
>
> Hi Tankers,
>
> As a vendor of 1/6th scale tanks, I'm now out of my entire inventory of
> Talon SR. This ESC was very sturdy and I believe that I had only ONE that
> failed (out of 100+)
>
> Now I'm in discussion with "Cross the Road Electronics", and the successor
> of the Talon SR is the Talon SRX. I guess it comes with lots more "bells
> and whistle", which I don't really care for since the Talon SR was doing a
> great job
> My issue is PRICING: The new Talon SRX is $90. 50% increase cost on the
> ESC.
>
> Also, the discounts of the electronics world are abysmal.
>
> Do any of you have "other options"? I'm not interested building one. I
> just want a product OFF THE SHELF.
> I'm in urgent need of good, strong ESC for 24V applications - 100A peak
> operation (I have about 15 ESC required for current sales)
>
> Please help me!
>
> NOTE: the Victor is not applicable. It will only take a maximum voltage of
> 16V.
>
> Since I got the floor, let me show you a pic of a current project: I'm
> building an AAV-7 for an engineering firm contracting with the Army. It has
> a Fiberglass body, no suspension, but two jet propulsion on the side. I
> will post a video of its workings in the water
> 
>
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RE: [TANKS] (Kind of) New Here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

My KV-2 is using 450W motors but mine weighs a ton with the steel tracks.
The KV-2 in 1/6 scale is huge.  You could easily build it to the 36" rule
and have plenty of room in it.

Derek
On Oct 8, 2015 6:03 PM, "Ben Holko"  wrote:

> Motor size would depend on the weight of your vehicle. Most people with
> these are using 300 watt, some 400 watt and if the vehicle is smaller and
> lighter then a pair of 250watt should suffice.
>
> All units operating well are running at 24v.
>
> Ben
>
> 
> From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on
> behalf of Khr_1991 [gamewes...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 9:13 AM
> To: R/C Tank Combat
> Subject: Re: [TANKS] (Kind of) New Here
>
> How many watts should I look for on the the scooter motor? And I'm also
> going to go with the higher volts is more efficient than low voltage? Would
> 2 car batteries hooked up for 24v work, or would it not have enough run
> time and weight too much.
>
> I talked with my dad and he wants a tank from ww2. I like the Pershing,
> the T23 with the vertical volume spring suspension. Would this be a legal
> tank?
>
> I'm also thinking that a German Tank Destroyer or German Captured KV2
> might be built after or before, so we have experience with building one,
> and we can battle each other.
>
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RE: [TANKS] Successor of Talon

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Yeah I have 2 Victor 883s in my Sturmtiger.

My KV-2 has a Vantec RDFR36.

I have another set of 883s in the M113.

I will admit though I bought most of my ESCs used which you can't do if you
are selling them to someone else.

Derek
On Oct 8, 2015 6:27 PM, "Ben Holko"  wrote:

> Yes there are two of these in the tank
> --
> *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on
> behalf of Loic [l...@fieldofarmortanks.com]
> *Sent:* Friday, October 09, 2015 10:15 AM
> *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> *Subject:* RE: [TANKS] Successor of Talon
>
> Ben,
>
> The link you added is for a $190/ESC Victor 883 system. Do you truly put
> two of these ESC in your tank? I’m trying to go cheap and I’m already
> complaining of the $90 Talon SRX which does not give me much more than my
> old $60 Talon SR. I’ve used 3 or 4 Talon SR in each of my tanks. Using FOUR
> $190 ESC would be $760 of ESC in each tank!
>
> I was talking about the Pro Victor SP
> http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-VICTORSP.html
>
> Loic
>
>
>
>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: AMX13

[Derek Engelhaupt]

For smooth shafts with no keyways I use Fenner Trantorque keyless
bushings... They are quite expensive unless you find them on Ebay like I
did.  The come in metric and standard sizes.  They clamp down on the smooth
shaft while applying torque outward on the inner bore of the sprocket.
They clamp on the shaft and push out on the sprocket at the same time.
Using them on my drive shafts to attach my sprockets that drive my tracks.
Don't slip even with steel tracks that weigh 17lbs. each.

Derek

On Thu, Feb 26, 2015 at 7:49 PM, 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I found a small hub that fit the output shaft of the gearbox.  Onto
 those,I welded a flat thick washer that was tapped for three bolts.   The
 sprocket got three matching holes and is bolted directly to the modified
 hub washer.

 At first I was concerned about abnormal wear in the gearbox by the
 sideways pull of the tensioned tracks, but that has not been a problem so
 far.

 Mike M

   --
  *From:* srwh7...@gmail.com srwh7...@gmail.com
 *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Thursday, February 26, 2015 1:15 PM
 *Subject:* [TANKS] Re: AMX13

 Mike, i am interested in how you attached your drive sprockets to the
 actual motors.

 Thx.
 Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea

[Derek Engelhaupt]

It is true that too much grip is a bad thing.  There is a balance in the
middle somewhere.  Since the tracks you are making are based off of the
idea I actually built and used on one of my tanks I can lend some insight
into them.  The pics in the article are of my Sturmtiger.  My original
thoughts for the tracks were very similar to yours (ie: using blocks like
that between the chains).  I didn't do it for simplicity sake and cost.  I
was trying to make my tracks on the cheap.  I have since changed to stiffer
steel 60 pitch tabletop chain tracks (Rexnord 1864K4.5
http://www.rexnord.com/rexnord_web_media_prod/pdfs/1864%20Series%20TableTop%20Chain%20Product%20Portfolio.pdf
). I did this to minimize the side to side flexing of my original design
you have modified.  The design you are using may work for your application,
but there are some things to take into consideration.  The problems I had
with the tracks was keeping them on the sprockets.  I was using a free
wheeling set of toothed sprocket on the front and a set of toothed drive
sprockets on the rear.  With enough tension, the tracks will stay on the
sprockets well enough.  My issue was that tension.  The more tension I put
on them, the more drive line losses I got (ie: the motors had to work too
hard).  I also had a full suspension on my tank.  As the tension increases
it would compress my suspension and therefore cause it not to work as
intended.  With a fixed suspension, that issue would go away.  I'm assuming
since it's a mower that it won't have a suspension on it.  You will at a
bare minimum want to add guide teeth to your tracks to keep the tracks
running straight through your road wheels and make sure the tracks stay
under the wheels.  Without guide teeth, your tracks could run out from
under the road wheels doing neutral turns.  You could also add outer guides
to the drive and idler sprockets at the front and rear of the mower to aid
in keeping the tracks on the sprockets.  If I were doing what you are
doing, that's what I would do so I could keep the track tension on the
looser side to accommodate sucking up rocks or twigs into the tracks.

I haven't abandoned my track idea, but the prefab Rexnord tracks were about
$100 when I found them on Ebay.  Kinda got lucky I think with those.  That
$100 was well spent saving me time and frustration of building my own.  I
may revisit my idea and fix the issues with it one day, but I haven't
really had much time to devote to tanks in the last year or so.

Derek
T065
SV016

On Fri, Feb 6, 2015 at 4:55 PM, Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre 
j-maxh...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Probably some experienced guys would say that too much grip mean
 difficulties to turn neutral on grass and drawn to much amp. to your motors.

 In second I would say that some guides thooths would probably work better
 even if it's seemmed to work. Your super traction will probably trow off
 your track at the first turn...

 I'm not experienced a lot but i got a 80% tank hull that will maybe
 running this weeckend, but a lot of guys reduce their grip with flat tracks
 even let some screws heads out to run better on all

 conditions..

 Out of that good work and make lots of testing cause tracks are cool but
 hard to master!!!


 Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre

 --
 Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2015 12:00:56 -0800
 From: jupd...@gmail.com
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: [TANKS] New Track Idea


 Hello all,

 My name is Josh and I am a robotics engineer. I do a lot of medical
 robotics during the day and mess around with RC stuff for fun. I was
 thinking about building a RC lawn mower because I figured it would be more
 fun to build the robot then mow my lawn. Plus sitting in the shade with a
 beer while I drive a RC lawn mower around the yard sounds great. Anyway,
 stumbled onto this group when looking at the track options. This page was
 really helpful http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/ and I
 got an idea that I wanted to see what people thought of it.

 I really liked the chain and bolt track idea. Using standard roller chain
 has a lot of advantages. Lots of sizes, strong, standard drive parts. But I
 did not like how all the load was on the chain and not the middle tread.
 Seems like you might not get much grip in some situations. So I started
 toying around with the idea of a custom tread, that you mounted to the
 roller chain. You could have various sizes, for different chain. Maybe even
 have different tread profiles to pick from. I 3d printed some parts to make
 prototypes and I ordered the materials to cast about 50-100 parts. I
 figured I would see what you guys thought. Maybe pick your brains. The
 final part would probably be injection molded. I do this kind of stuff at
 work so I have some contacts.

 Any comments welcome. The red ones match #35 chain and are 3 wide, the
 black match #40 chain and are 4 wide, and the white match #50 chain and
 are 5 wide. Maybe I am just missing something 

Re: [TANKS] 12 volt dimmer /motor control as speed control?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

There are multiple types of speed controllers...single and dual channel are
most common in the hobby used for propulsion.  A Talon/Victor would be a
single and something like a Vantec RDFR would be a dual.  Most duals have
mixing built in (ie: 1 stick for driving). A single setup would need two
sticks unless you buy a separate mixing circuit like the IMX-1 available at
www.robotmarketplace.com. You would plug both singles into that mixer and
then the mixer would plug into 2 channels on your radio receiver.

Derek
On Feb 5, 2015 7:14 AM, srwh7...@gmail.com wrote:

 Thanks Steve.
 So if i get the interal layout correct, really simple discription,

 Each drive sprocket is driven by a motor,  each motor has its own speed
 control? The forward and reverse set up is done a double pull double throw
 switch some where between the speed control and motor (or similar).  So
 with something like the Victor or Talon would it be a simple plug from the
 receiver (Rx)? If so is there not usually only one stick on the Tx for
 speed therefor one spot on the Rx for a speed control? But it sounds like
 you need two?

 Stewart

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I'm going to assume it plugs into the balancing port on the battery pack?
Do you need one for each pack or will it work for all the packs once they
are wired up in series/parallel?  Sorry for all the questions.  Never dealt
with anything, but NiCd or lead acid batteries.

Derek

On Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 7:11 PM, 'Will Montgomery' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

 That's better than the one I got. Mine had no display.

 Will



  -Original Message-
 From: Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 To: rctankcombat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Thu, Jan 8, 2015 7:37 pm
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

  Will,

  Something like this?


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34120__HobbyKing_8482_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2S_8S_US_Warehouse_.html

  Derek

 On Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 6:28 PM, 'wsmontg5' via R/C Tank Combat 
 rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

  I have the circuit that beeps when the voltage drops below a set level
 hobby king sells them.

  Will


  Sent on a Virgin Mobile Samsung Galaxy S® III


  Original message 
 From: tan...@gmail.com
 Date:01/08/2015 7:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

  I know I'm resurrecting a zombie thread, but I had one question about
 these batteries before I decide to buy them:


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8582__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_20C.html

  Looks to be a high voltage version of the ones Will and Loic are
 using.  The smaller ones below are somewhat cheaper per pack, but it would
 simplify the install if I only had to use 2 packs instead of 4.


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16786__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html

  Will said he was running them and gets almost an hour's run time out of
 them.  I was looking at them for the KV-2 which is probably bigger and
 heavier than his tank.  My question would be how do you know how far to
 drain them without damage?  Are there a bunch of safety precautions for
 using these batteries that I need to know about?

  Derek

 On Monday, June 16, 2014 at 11:27:13 AM UTC-5,
 lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com wrote:

  Will, yes thank you and I purchased the 6A Balancer Charger as well.
 I’m ready to now install them and test them.

 I’d like to talk to you offline. Is this possible?

 Regards,


  *From:* rctank...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com]
 *Sent:* Friday, June 13, 2014 10:35 PM
 *To:* rctank...@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

 These are what I use.

 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__
 Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html

 Will



  -Original Message-
 From: loic Anthian lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com
 To: rctankcombat rctank...@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Fri, Jun 13, 2014 6:43 pm
 Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's
   Will,

  I have purchased x4 of the LiPo batteries your suggested with the
 charger. I’m trying to replace:

  X2 12V 18 Ahr lead batteries in series – 24V 18Ahr – weight 23.2 lbs
  X4 11.1V 5Ahr Li-Poly x2 series/parallel – 22.2V 10Ahr – weight 3.5 lbs

  The weight saving would be almost 20 lbs! Not sure what the life or
 performance difference would be?
  Could you help me setting them up and contact me offline at
 lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com?

  Cheers from sunny Utah,
  Loic



   http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__
 Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Will,

Something like this?

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__34120__HobbyKing_8482_Cell_Checker_with_Low_Voltage_Alarm_2S_8S_US_Warehouse_.html

Derek

On Thu, Jan 8, 2015 at 6:28 PM, 'wsmontg5' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

 I have the circuit that beeps when the voltage drops below a set level
 hobby king sells them.

 Will


 Sent on a Virgin Mobile Samsung Galaxy S® III


  Original message 
 From: tan...@gmail.com
 Date:01/08/2015 7:17 PM (GMT-05:00)
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

 I know I'm resurrecting a zombie thread, but I had one question about
 these batteries before I decide to buy them:


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8582__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_6S1P_20C.html

 Looks to be a high voltage version of the ones Will and Loic are using.
 The smaller ones below are somewhat cheaper per pack, but it would simplify
 the install if I only had to use 2 packs instead of 4.


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16786__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html

 Will said he was running them and gets almost an hour's run time out of
 them.  I was looking at them for the KV-2 which is probably bigger and
 heavier than his tank.  My question would be how do you know how far to
 drain them without damage?  Are there a bunch of safety precautions for
 using these batteries that I need to know about?

 Derek

 On Monday, June 16, 2014 at 11:27:13 AM UTC-5, lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com
 wrote:

 Will, yes thank you and I purchased the 6A Balancer Charger as well. I’m
 ready to now install them and test them.



 I’d like to talk to you offline. Is this possible?



 Regards,





 *From:* rctank...@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctank...@googlegroups.com]
 *Sent:* Friday, June 13, 2014 10:35 PM
 *To:* rctank...@googlegroups.com
 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's



 These are what I use.

 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__
 Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html

 Will







 -Original Message-
 From: loic Anthian lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com
 To: rctankcombat rctank...@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Fri, Jun 13, 2014 6:43 pm
 Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Lipo's

 Will,



 I have purchased x4 of the LiPo batteries your suggested with the
 charger. I’m trying to replace:



 X2 12V 18 Ahr lead batteries in series – 24V 18Ahr – weight 23.2 lbs

 X4 11.1V 5Ahr Li-Poly x2 series/parallel – 22.2V 10Ahr – weight 3.5 lbs



 The weight saving would be almost 20 lbs! Not sure what the life or
 performance difference would be?

 Could you help me setting them up and contact me offline at
 lo...@fieldofarmortanks.com?



 Cheers from sunny Utah,

 Loic







 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__7028__
 Turnigy_Accucel_6_50W_6A_Balancer_Charger_w_Accessories.html

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Treads

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I used a double chain setup at one point. It worked...OK.  On occasion it
would come off.  The problem was that the tracks didn't always track
straight due to the friction with the ground.  With the attachment chain,
the chain is so stiff that there is no deflection which is why it works so
well and the large sprocket engagement area.

Derek

On Sun, Sep 14, 2014 at 4:08 AM, Loren kunkmies...@gmail.com wrote:

 Chris, IIRC that was more or less how the first chain tracks were made.  I
 refer to the article:
 http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/track-systems/

 The original fix to the derailing was to skip the sprockets and go to a
 friction drive.  I'm going to make larger sprockets that will engage the
 track itself, not the chain.  I'm thinking plywood might be enough,
 definitely test some of that before plunging in to cut aluminum though,
 even if I need metal in the end.

 Jean, if you only got an eighth of an inch between tracks, it's never
 gonna work right.  Looking at the M1 Abrams(my build), the tracks are
 designed so the lugs on the outside the sprockets engage have space between
 them roughly the same as the length of the lug.  This gives enough space
 for a decent sprocket tooth to engage the track.  I'm not doing it quite
 like that, so the gaps are thinner, but you do have to make them big enough
 for a decent sprocket tooth.  The Abrams has about 11 teeth on the track
 sprockets, even scaled down, that means a lot more than 1/8 between track
 pads.  Gotta have the space to make it work.

 I've messed around with this a bit in Solidworks, and I'll mess around
 some more most likely before I start making stuff, and do some simple tests
 before going whole hog.

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Re: [TANKS] Treads

[Derek Engelhaupt]

How wide do your tracks need to be?  I'm using a Rexnord stainless conveyor
table top chains similar to these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rexnord-Stainless-Steel-Table-Top-Chain-814036313-3-1-4-W-x-72-Length-I-6/400410521278?_trksid=p2047675.c100010.m2109_trkparms=aid%3D555012%26algo%3DPW.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131231084308%26meid%3D29c7fa6cf22646b3ad13733fa127d331%26pid%3D100010%26prg%3D20131231084308%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D24%26sd%3D301245985060

It's sometimes hard to find them for cheap, but I think I paid around $100
for mine that were 4.5 wide and 20' of chain.  Sounds expensive, but I had
no building to do and the tracks are indestructible.  I offered them less
than they were asking on Ebay and they accepted.  Offer even if they don't
have a buy it now option.  If the stuff has been around a while then they
may just sell it to you cheaper.

This was exactly like the one I bought only narrower than mine and uses
standard 60 pitch sprockets:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Conveyor-belt-1864AK3-1-4-Steel-top-plate-10ft-TableTop-Rexnord-/121306709551?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item1c3e717e2f

Rexnord is just one of the manufacturers.  Search Ebay for table top
chain and you might find something that may be useful for a decent price.

Derek

On Wed, Sep 10, 2014 at 11:57 AM, Anthony Cardone dr.lowt...@gmail.com
wrote:

 So apparently attachment chain is unnecessarily expensive so I'm now lost
 as to where to find a tank tread system. I'm much more into the idea of
 chain driven sprocket drive system as opposed to friction but will take all
 ideas. Anybody have some good sources to find attachment roller chain or
 regular roller chain with skip tooth sprockets?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: QF 25 Pounder Build

[Derek Engelhaupt]

It was underneath attached to the gun...

Derek


On Fri, Aug 15, 2014 at 9:04 PM, 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Looks nice. Where is the CO2 bottle going to sit?

 On Friday, August 15, 2014 8:16:58 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

 Sounds good, John!
 Just uploaded a video of me doing a complete overview 25 pounder's
 systems.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qZoWHkV9pEc
 Oh, forgot to mention, If your last name ends in Tyng, ignore that
 statement about Cromwell tanks. ;)

 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 6:55:45 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

 Forgot, just need two flat pieces of metal.


 On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 6:54:51 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

 Just looks like a simple v attachment.  Attach the open end of the v to
 the gun carriage. Then, drill a hole in each end for the center of the
 turntable. Just need a bolt and a bushing then.. No welding required at
 then.


  Tuesday, August 12, 2014 9:12:27 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

 Do you think the wheels will keep centered on the base without the
 piece that goes from the gun frame to the turntable?  That was the piece I
 originally thought I was going to need the welder for.
 On Tuesday, August 12, 2014 7:12:15 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:



 On Monday, August 11, 2014 7:00:27 PM UTC-4, Caleb Smith wrote:

 Why didn't I see that before!  Looks simple enough to make.  That
 little frame might be a little more difficult to make.  Might have to 
 brake
 out the welder...

 Or, for now how about this. Large piece of plywood base and then
 maybe a 1/2 thick plywood  circle  in the center for the tires to roll
 around. No welding required.


 John P

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Re: [TANKS] FIRST RUN M4A1 GRIZZLY

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Nice...looks like it runs well.  Is that the max speed?

Derek
On Jun 29, 2014 7:45 PM, Robert Currie rcrobertcur...@gmail.com wrote:

 Hi
   first run on the basement floor  and a mould started to start upper hull
 Cheers all
 Rob Currie


 https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106203879014407575192/albums/5845962065267787537/6030501239971896194?pid=6030501239971896194oid=10620387901440

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Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers ....

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I actually think Andy Mark is member of this list...He was the one that was
making the CNC gears out of ABS for turrets and R2D2 replicas.

Derek


On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Says right on the page it is a rebranded Fly Sky radio. No harm no foul.
 Mike Butts

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 12:10 PM, RocketMan dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Looks like a blatant trademark violation, here

 Cheap and Dirty Radio Control System (am-2520)
 http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2520.htm


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Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers ....

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Whoops...my bad...lol

Derek
On Jun 27, 2014 2:29 PM, 'AES' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:

 Nope that's Andy Schwartz making the gears.

 Andy

*From:* Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Friday, June 27, 2014 2:26 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Cheap Control Systems better warm up their lawyers
 

 I actually think Andy Mark is member of this list...He was the one that
 was making the CNC gears out of ABS for turrets and R2D2 replicas.

 Derek




 On Fri, Jun 27, 2014 at 2:20 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.com
 wrote:

 Says right on the page it is a rebranded Fly Sky radio. No harm no foul.
 Mike Butts

 On Jun 27, 2014, at 12:10 PM, RocketMan dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Looks like a blatant trademark violation, here

 Cheap and Dirty Radio Control System (am-2520)
 http://www.andymark.com/product-p/am-2520.htm


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Re: [TANKS] Spring rates

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Franks's formula pretty much works out about right for the KV-2 I have.  12
axles at about 120-140lbs completed weight, and I'm using 30lb. springs.
 Mine would be on the stiff side of his calculations.  I'm also using die
springs which don't seem to compress that much in a static state, but seem
to work really well at absorbing shock.

Derek


On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com
wrote:

 Here are my rules of thumb, based on experience with suspensions in the
 SU-100 (tension springs), Semovente (leaf springs) and Patton (torsion
 springs).

 1) Estimate (or measure) the battle weight of your tank (W).  Multiply by
 two (2) and divide by the number of road-wheel axles (A) to determine the
 minimum weight per axles (WPA(min) = 2 * W / A)

 2) The minimum weight per axle, WPA(min), is a good starting point. Each
 suspension will be at 50% of travel when sitting still and will be able to
 move 50% more under dynamic loads. The WPA(min) is a nice looking
 suspension for video purpose, easily riding up and down when going over
 objects.  Great for that that's neat suspension video, but not as good
 for real battle-field situations, like flying over a large tree root at
 full speed.

 3) For a little stiffer suspension, multiply by 4 to yield WPA(stiff) = 4
 * W / A.  In that case, each suspension will be about 25% depressed when
 the tank is sitting still and will be able to travel 3 times further under
 dynamic loads.  The video doesn't look as nice, but the suspension will
 take more abuse and there is less chance of deforming the suspension
 springs (be they compression, tension, leaf or torsion) during a real
 battle.

 The SU-100 has been using a WPA(min) suspension for many, many years and
 it's still working well.  But, keep in mind that the SU-100 has
 historically been the slowest tank on the battlefield, so it wasn't flying
 over tree roots and having to land hard.  It also has mechanical limits to
 absorb the really big shocks without damaging the springs.

 The Semovente and Patton both started out using WPA(min) suspensions, but
 both have been increased to WPA(stiff) suspensions after initial field
 tests.  Because they rely on leaf and torsion springs without mechanical
 stops the stiffer springs are needed to prevent deformation of the springs
 during heavy load events.



 On 6/11/2014 2:36 PM, Don Shankin wrote:

 I'm curious about what I should expect to be using for springs for my
 suspension.  Are you all balancing the overall effective spring force to
 the weight of your tank?  This seems like something that is just
 discovered through trial and error, but I'd be interested in what you
 find works best.


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Re: [TANKS] Man Down

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Me...

Derek


On Tue, May 27, 2014 at 9:34 AM, Chris. b barthelso...@hotmail.com wrote:

 At least one Australian!

 Chris. b


 On Tuesday, 27 May 2014 23:32:47 UTC+9:30, Frank Pittelli wrote:

 OK ... complete honesty ... how many of you laughed at the end of the
 video?

 On 5/26/2014 2:07 PM, 'John Pittelli' via R/C Tank Combat wrote:
  Going for the kill I whirled around the tree and snapped off a round.
  Sadly, a bit high. Sorry about that Noah. He shook it off, and play
  resumed.

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Re: [TANKS] update on Talons

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Wouldn't you need quite a few of them to power our tanks?

Derek


On Fri, May 23, 2014 at 7:56 PM, 'Will Montgomery' via R/C Tank Combat 
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com wrote:


 http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16786__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C_USA_Warehouse_.html



  -Original Message-
 From: Joe Sommer anvil...@comcast.net
 To: rctankcombat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Fri, May 23, 2014 8:42 pm
 Subject: Re: [TANKS] update on Talons



 On Friday, May 23, 2014 5:40:03 PM UTC-4, su100t34 wrote:

 These are the lipo's I use.
 Will


 Those are the most unusual LiPo's that I have ever seen.


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Re: [TANKS] Re: explanation of r/c system mixing

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Using the 350W geared Unite gear motors, I have blown a 30A fuse, but only
once.  My Sturmtiger blew the fuse (about 110lbs.) when I stalled the motor
trying to climb a tree stump.  I have a 70A main breaker from the batteries
to the distribution point.  Never tripped the 70A breaker.  I did just
about melt two 7AH batteries drawing too much current from them during
testing on my KV-2 (150lbs) using the 450W Unite gear motors.  The cases
were deforming because of the internal heat being generated.

Derek


On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 9:38 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 FET absolute maximum current rating is not the point here. Of course they
 are rated for over 60 amps. Theres a key difference between transient and
 continuous loading.

 The issue is that those same fets derate rapidly with heat; you might get
 160+ amps at 20 degrees, but it goes down very fast as they get hot, which
 in turn happens very fast if you have a small heat sink like the Talons do.
 At 40 amps none of this is an issue; at 60 the small heatsink is a concern
 and at 100 its a fatal flaw.


 On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 10:20 AM, Loic atFOA foaadd...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use x4 Talon SR
 http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com/product_p/foa-talonsr.htm (shameless
 plug!) on both FOA Tiger I https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uXyqYxMlUvgand 
 Panzer
 IV https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJhG2f55sOA. I have been running
 those tanks A LOT for the last few months. I have a 30Amp fuse on each
 motor. Never blown a fuse.

 I should make notice that the Tiger I is about 140 lbs, and Pz.IV is
 about 110 lbs. I think weight is critical as to the amp draw to the motors.
 I would also assume that friction is also critical (i.e bushings, bearings,
 track design)

 As Steve noted above, I also talked to Mike (the designer of the Talon)
 and he doubts we go over 20 amps on normal operating conditions (continuous
 run for 39 min @ 4 mph, going over curbs, donuts on high grass, climbed
 small hills). He deals with ROBOTS that fight like Sumo Wrestlers. When two
 robots go against each others, it sure could spike your amp usage. That's
 what Talon's are built for!

 Loic
 http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com

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Re: [TANKS] Arnold's tank

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Think the tank is an M46 Patton...


On Tue, Apr 1, 2014 at 7:08 PM, Will Montgomery wsmon...@aim.com wrote:

 He crushes a SU100 at the 1:39 mark. Your going to get it Arnold.

 Will



  -Original Message-
 From: Ben Holko b...@holnet.net
 To: rctankcombat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 Sent: Tue, Apr 1, 2014 7:54 pm
 Subject: [TANKS] Arnold's tank

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4lnVx2BAYk

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Re: [TANKS] linier drive for steering?

[Derek ENGELHAUPT]

There is a website that describes using a servos electronics to make a wiper 
motor act like a giant servo.  Can't find it at the moment though.

Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 26, 2014, at 6:54 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 It wont, or at least not open loop. Youll need some sensor to tell it when it 
 centers...
 
 On 2014-03-25 10:38 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
 so anyone have any idea on how to make it self center?
  
 In a message dated 3/24/2014 7:13:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 
 odysseyslipw...@aol.com writes:
 recently during one of my boring moments sitting here on line, i saw a some 
 of sketches for a wheeled vehicle i work on from time to time and continued 
 the thought.
  
 i all ready worked out the basics for the upper and lower control arms, how 
 to make them pivot, i worked out how i would make the spindle/hub/block 
 thingie for where the wheels/hubs would mount as well as figured out (3 
 quick doodles later) the best way to make it have steering for the powered 
 wheels making for an all powered wheeled vehicle (i think i even have the 
 suspension worked out, i just have to hit home depot at some point)  
 but that just left the one big thing, how to steer it.
  
 i saw the threads for using a wiper motor and at the moment that seems to be 
 about the most basic way to go (plus the whatever stuff for making it auto 
 center afterwards like a servo) . a bit over my head for the moment i 
 guess, but was just thinking, what about one of the linier drive thingies? 
 them things with the long worm screw powered by a geared motor? other than 
 space being a possible restriction, would they be any easier to work with? 
 would they offer better benefits such as more torque? or would it just be 
 harder to work with?
  
 chris
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Re: [TANKS] linier drive for steering?

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Sounds complicated...lol

Derek


On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 12:43 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 1) because in the specific case of a stepper motor you can operate open
 loop. So long as you know where you started and how many intervals youve
 gone you know where you are...

 2) any microcontroller these days can drive a stepper motor. Appropriate
 control would ideally constitute a way to zero the motor's controller in
 order to detect if a step was skipped, such as a magnet and hall effect
 sensor on the shaft...
 On 2014-03-26 12:03 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 And as an aside you dont need a closed loop system; a stepper motor with
 appropriate controls will work fine

 Since Chris is looking for self-centering, care to elaborate on why
 closed loop would not be needed?  Also, for those that may not be as well
 versed in stepper drivers, care to list the appropriate controls to make
 a stepper motor function is this R/C controlled application?

 ST


 On Wednesday, March 26, 2014 11:05:00 AM UTC-4, True North Armouries
 wrote:

 You can for ~ 30$ on 
 hobbyking.comhttp://www.google.com/url?q=http%3A%2F%2Fhobbyking.comsa=Dsntz=1usg=AFQjCNGM7FiZ5OPYL2izyuyjrVwqybeC5wbuy
  servos with 30 to 40 kgcm of torque; the one i got for my turret zenith
 has 40 kgcm or almost 3 ft-lbs. You no longer need to custom make a
 solution.

 And as an aside you dont need a closed loop system; a stepper motor with
 appropriate controls will work fine...


 On Wed, Mar 26, 2014 at 10:02 AM, TyngTech stev...@gmail.com wrote:

 Chris,

 For wheeled steering, no matter the mechanics (linear or rotary
 actuation), you will want to implement a closed loop control system.  In
 other words, an R/C servo setup.  If you take a servo apart, you will have
 a control board, a motor, and a feedback potentiometer (or pot).  It's
 this pot that tells the control board where the output shaft is located.
  Since most hobby servo's are to small to handle the steering for our scale
 vehicles, one needs to build a Jumbo servo.  You can hack a standard servo
 by adding an amplifier stage to power a larger motor or just get one of
 several commercial products meant for building bigger servos.  These boards
 can be interfaced into practically any DC gearmotor and off the shelf pot
 to make a super servo.  Peruse through the following sites to learn more.

 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Servo_(radio_control)
  http://rcpowerservo.com/
 http://www.pololu.com/category/95/pololu-jrk-motor-
 controllers-with-feedback

 ST




 On Tuesday, March 25, 2014 10:38:58 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:

  so anyone have any idea on how to make it self center?

  In a message dated 3/24/2014 7:13:17 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
 odyssey...@aol.com writes:

 recently during one of my boring moments sitting here on line, i saw a
 some of sketches for a wheeled vehicle i work on from time to time and
 continued the thought.

 i all ready worked out the basics for the upper and lower control
 arms, how to make them pivot, i worked out how i would make
 the spindle/hub/block thingie for where the wheels/hubs would mount as 
 well
 as figured out (3 quick doodles later) the best way to make it have
 steering for the powered wheels making for an all powered wheeled vehicle
 (i think i even have the suspension worked out, i just have to hit home
 depot at some point)  but that just left the one big thing, how to
 steer it.

 i saw the threads for using a wiper motor and at the moment that seems
 to be about the most basic way to go (plus the whatever stuff for making
 it auto center afterwards like a servo) . a bit over my head for the
 moment i guess, but was just thinking, what about one of the linier drive
 thingies? them things with the long worm screw powered by a geared motor?
 other than space being a possible restriction, would they be any easier to
 work with? would they offer better benefits such as more torque? or would
 it just be harder to work with?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

What you are looking for is a momentary normally off switchtwo wire...

Derek


On Tue, Mar 11, 2014 at 12:00 AM, ~D damienmcca...@hotmail.com wrote:

 well i know a little bit about switches,a momentary means it is only on(or
 off) when pressed,a non-momentary is like a toggle,press it on then press
 it off,a normally on or off is a sub catagory of momentary switch(on till
 pressed/off till pressed) understand?


 On Monday, March 10, 2014 11:56:16 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:

  i thought they were called normally open or normally closed switched

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Re: [TANKS] Re: need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Naw...he's just seen many people with different ideas come and go over
the years.  Most of them never fielded an asset.  It's nothing
personal...at least I don't think so.  :)

Derek


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 1:57 PM, ~D damienmcca...@hotmail.com wrote:

 i think MR. tying doesnt like me :/

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Re: [TANKS] need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

They make electric motors in much larger wattages than what we typically
use and higher voltages:

www.tncscooters.com under motors.  They have 12V - 60V and up to 1000W.

Or www.robotmarketplace.com


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 3:58 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

  as for a motor size, from what i have seen over the past few years, it
 seems that the tanker's use 24vt 350w motors (or there abouts) but if they
 where to use a single motor i would think it would have to be larger,
 somewhere around 600w+ (750w might be ideal unless one of them comes up
 with a way to determine what's needed) as now the one motor has to have
 enough power to power both tracks at the same time but also have enough
 power for when both tracks are turning in reverse of one another - at least
 that's my theory in a nut shell

 chris

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Re: [TANKS] need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Go big or go home... :)


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 4:04 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 They make electric motors in much larger wattages than what we typically
 use and higher voltages:

 www.tncscooters.com under motors.  They have 12V - 60V and up to 1000W.

 Or www.robotmarketplace.com


 On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 3:58 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

  as for a motor size, from what i have seen over the past few years, it
 seems that the tanker's use 24vt 350w motors (or there abouts) but if they
 where to use a single motor i would think it would have to be larger,
 somewhere around 600w+ (750w might be ideal unless one of them comes up
 with a way to determine what's needed) as now the one motor has to have
 enough power to power both tracks at the same time but also have enough
 power for when both tracks are turning in reverse of one another - at least
 that's my theory in a nut shell

 chris

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Re: [TANKS] Re: need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

You want a NO (normally off switch).  Radio shack has them.  Two wire.


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:32 PM, ~D damienmcca...@hotmail.com wrote:

 hahaha that helps alot thanks X) i saw that thing,how fast does it go
 (mph)?


 On Monday, March 10, 2014 9:42:10 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

 As someone who has tried different ideas, don't worry. Just build it and
 bring it to the battle. We'll never turn you away
 Items I've built that others did not care for,  1. the Comet Bunker
 artillery. If I was on your side, you loved it, otherwise  Hated It.. 2.
 Most recent PzII.  Direct drive motors, It's not a good idea. And just the
 tank in general. Too small, you'll never get everything you need to
 fit.Then when it worked, given the nickname Abomination. Which I actually
 now use as my call sign..

 So, 42 responses, did anyone ever answer your push button Tx question?
 On my Tx , upper left corner had a switch to lower the landing gear. See
 pic#1 and #2 This is a simple on off switch.
 So, we opened the case, removed the toggle switch and replaced it with
 the push button. Drilled the proper size hole and secured. See Pic#3 and
 #4. Fairly simple. I actually did it myself. With out magic smoke. Hope
 this helps.

 Good luck with your tank.
 Oberst Johann  T-79


 On Sunday, March 9, 2014 7:00:45 PM UTC-5, ~D wrote:


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wqLjwyNnjns/Ux5oa6Ip9VI/ADc/tw2jJvgzxic/s1600/tx2.JPGhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SVOVUsH8dYA/Ux5oTtil6hI/ADU/r8s2m7tQRBc/s1600/tx1.JPG



 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-svpxMv9sZUw/Ux5oi9ZjkAI/ADs/dX1EQz0DNXo/s1600/tx4.JPGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kBtUB8Zj4MM/Ux5ofAWwY0I/ADk/lV1U2MtZBtk/s1600/tx3.JPG

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Re: [TANKS] Re: need some help over here

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Also it has to be a momentary switch...forgot that part.


On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:35 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 You want a NO (normally off switch).  Radio shack has them.  Two wire.


 On Mon, Mar 10, 2014 at 9:32 PM, ~D damienmcca...@hotmail.com wrote:

 hahaha that helps alot thanks X) i saw that thing,how fast does it go
 (mph)?


 On Monday, March 10, 2014 9:42:10 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

 As someone who has tried different ideas, don't worry. Just build it and
 bring it to the battle. We'll never turn you away
 Items I've built that others did not care for,  1. the Comet Bunker
 artillery. If I was on your side, you loved it, otherwise  Hated It.. 2.
 Most recent PzII.  Direct drive motors, It's not a good idea. And just the
 tank in general. Too small, you'll never get everything you need to
 fit.Then when it worked, given the nickname Abomination. Which I actually
 now use as my call sign..

 So, 42 responses, did anyone ever answer your push button Tx question?
 On my Tx , upper left corner had a switch to lower the landing gear. See
 pic#1 and #2 This is a simple on off switch.
 So, we opened the case, removed the toggle switch and replaced it with
 the push button. Drilled the proper size hole and secured. See Pic#3 and
 #4. Fairly simple. I actually did it myself. With out magic smoke. Hope
 this helps.

 Good luck with your tank.
 Oberst Johann  T-79


 On Sunday, March 9, 2014 7:00:45 PM UTC-5, ~D wrote:


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wqLjwyNnjns/Ux5oa6Ip9VI/ADc/tw2jJvgzxic/s1600/tx2.JPGhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-SVOVUsH8dYA/Ux5oTtil6hI/ADU/r8s2m7tQRBc/s1600/tx1.JPG



 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-svpxMv9sZUw/Ux5oi9ZjkAI/ADs/dX1EQz0DNXo/s1600/tx4.JPGhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kBtUB8Zj4MM/Ux5ofAWwY0I/ADk/lV1U2MtZBtk/s1600/tx3.JPG

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Re: [TANKS] new asset for next battle

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I want one :)  Not sure the flailing would do much for IEDs and mines.
 I don't think the vehicle could flail with enough force.  Still cool
though.

Derek


On Fri, Mar 7, 2014 at 2:18 PM, Joe Sommer anvil...@comcast.net wrote:


 Kent Massey works for HDT Robotics and has attended several
 of our battles previously.  I asked him to donate one of their
 Protector vehicles to use at our next battle.

 Kent recently sent me links to several videos.  Follow me and
 Suspension Testing are particularly impressive.

 Joe

 Armed UGV at Fort Benning (targets at 150 meters):

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS_Fort_Benning.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS_Fort_Benning.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS_Fort_Benning.m4v

  Armed UGV in earlier testing:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_CROWS.m4v

  Logistics Carrier:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/SMET_Fort_Benning.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/SMET_Fort_Benning.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/SMET_Fort_Benning.m4v

  Flailing:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Fort_Benning.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Fort_Benning.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Fort_Benning.m4v

  Follow Me:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_Follow_Me.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_Follow_Me.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Protector_Follow_Me.m4v

  Backhoe/Loader Testing:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Robotics_Backhoe_Loader.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Robotics_Backhoe_Loader.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/HDT_Robotics_Backhoe_Loader.m4v

  TARDEC Roller/Rake:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Protector_TARDEC_Roller_Test.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Protector_TARDEC_Roller_Test.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Protector_TARDEC_Roller_Test.m4v

  Suspension testing:

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Suspension_Tests.mov

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Suspension_Tests.wmv

 http://www.mvmax.com/video/Suspension_Tests.m4v

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Re: [TANKS] FOA Pz.Kpw.IV Ausf.H Simple Motorization

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Looks like it has pretty good mobility...keep it up.  :)

Derek


On Fri, Feb 14, 2014 at 4:28 PM, Loic atFOA foaadd...@gmail.com wrote:

 Fellow RC Tankers,

 Since we are waiting for the RC Combat Tiger I to be cut, and waiting for
 our 3D Designer to give us the RC Combat Panther G, we were getting
 bored... and put a stock FOA-TTMS-HP into a Pz.IV Aus.H hull

 Below enjoy the YouTube video of our result!
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bJhG2f55sOAfeature=youtu.be

 Please note the tank is 94 lbs, fully loaded with batteries!
 3.5 mph

 ... and the ground was so soft! which is tougher on the running gears. But
 i was really surprised how those tracks and gears behaved!!!

 This is good news as FOA uses the Pz.IVH hull for the Brummbar, Jagdpanzer
 IV L70, StuG IV and Nashorn


 *As a side note, a wink to Tyng Tech for his design on the TTMS system.*

 Loic
 http://www.fieldofarmortanks.com

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Re: [TANKS] Minor upgrade to T-79

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Don't think we want to get into this about the function of a particular gun
- as in whether or not it was used against vehicles or personnel or
bunkers.  If that were the case, my Sturmtiger would be considered arty.
 Even assault guns can be fired as direct fire weapons.  An HE round fired
at a hard target can do damage even if it's only to the crew.  Take out the
crew = worthless tank.

Derek


On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 8:13 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Furthermore, i suspect adding the 75 l24 would handicap the vehicle in
 other ways, such as limited traverse speed on the turret...

 And as a side note, the 75 l24 was an infantry support weapon. Its
 capabilities against enemy armor are negligible.


 On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 8:08 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Field mods aren't exactly production are they

 Agreed

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Re: [TANKS] Minor upgrade to T-79

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I looked them up.  Surplus Center did have one kind, but not the kind I
remember.  For anyone interested they are officially called transfer
rollers as far as I can tell if you are interested in putting this kind of
tech in your tank... :)

Derek


On Mon, Feb 10, 2014 at 7:23 PM, jvragu47 jpl...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Yes Derek, they are very sweet. I'm not sure where they came from, Santa
 Paul gave them to me. Glad to see someone at least looked at the upgrade.

 Seems as though quite a few folks swallowed my misinformation , breach ,
 barrel and phony ammo box. LOL.

 Stay tuned for further updates. Sorry to see that T-40 will not be at
 battle this year. Especially since you did all of that work Steve .

 Oberst Johann

 On Monday, February 10, 2014 1:07:25 AM UTC-5, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 I used regular roller bearings under the KV-2 turret mounted on small
 shafts, but I like this implementation better.  Mine works so I probably
 won't change it though.  I think Surplus Center has these pretty cheap,
 right?

 Derek


 On Sun, Feb 9, 2014 at 11:07 PM, John Pittelli jpl...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Spent a few hours today adding an upgrade to the Abomination.  An
 observer mumbled that it would be outlawed. Oh well, I leave that to our
 forum to decide. Check out the last page of T-79.

 On another note, while reading a roster for Operation Hercules , it
 seems that one of the 12 Pz II Ausf J's in the Bethke Co. was field
 outfitted with the 75mm short barrel howitzer from the early PzIV's.
 I found this photo of that tank . PzII is on the left  While
 unfortunately the gun is not visible, you can clearly see  the standard
 75mm ammo box stowed on the right rear fender.
 To the rules committee:
 I will be making this variation. Please upgrade the ammo allotment from
 30 rounds to 40 rounds. Thank you in advance for your consideration.
 Strength through a better Abomination.

 Oberst Johann

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Motor Amplifier

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I will second Joe's recomendation.  I use two of the IMX-1's on two
different tanks and they work great.

Derek


On Mon, Feb 3, 2014 at 2:58 PM, Joe Sommer anvil...@comcast.net wrote:



 On Monday, February 3, 2014 12:58:40 PM UTC-5, Fred Thomson wrote:

 On Wednesday, January 8, 2014 2:43:25 PM UTC-7, TyngTech wrote:

 http://www.andymark.com/Talon-p/am-2238.htm
  Does this require a mixer?


 Fred,

 You need one Talon for each track.

 You will not need a mixer if you use Frank's C12C.
 It provides internal mixing.

 You will need a mixer if you use a regular radio.
 I recommend the IMX-1 from RobotLogic
 http://www.robotlogic.com/product_imx1.html

 I do not recommend elevon mixing used for V-tail
 airplanes.

 Joe


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Re: [TANKS] Re: KV-2 feed tray issues

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Thanks for the advice on soldering.  I've soldered quite a bit of copper
pipe so I do know how to do it cleanly.  The key is always flux.  Without
flux it doesn't work well. I've checked out my work and no solder actually
reached the inside of the pipe.  Once the pipe is hot enough, it only take
a little solder to get it to bond as long as you use flux and you can take
away the heat on concentrate on the solder placement.  It feeds pretty
well, but maybe it's just the anal side of me that says it's not feeding
perfectly.  The extra bends were there for additional capacity so that I
could get all 40 balls inside the tubing.  I guess I need to let myself get
to a point where it feeds well enough to do some field testing mounted on
the tank.

Derek


On Sat, Jan 4, 2014 at 5:07 PM, Robert Currie rcrobertcur...@gmail.comwrote:

 Hi Derek

Looks good ...can I ask why so many bends ? with soldering be careful
 not to use too much solder on your joints might cause a problem for you
 getting blobs of solder in the way of the paintballs let us know how
 the testing goes good luck !


 On Tuesday, December 31, 2013 2:23:26 PM UTC-5, TyngTech wrote:

 Derek,

 Haven't seen a GTV gun in a while.  The side loading gives you some nice
 loading options.  I'm going to pass along a TyngTech advance research
 project which I think might be beneficial to your setup.  It's something
 that I call a conformal loader.  Build an open frame one paintball in
 height which can hold 40 rounds.  This will be mounted above your marker as
 high as possible in the turret.  On the bottom of the frame, stretch and
 attach a piece of spandex.  Cut a doughnut out of some thin sheet metal
 that a paintball can pass through.  With the frame mounted in place, above
 the loading port on the gun, glue the metal doughnut onto the top side of
 the spandex (Goop glue should work well).  When the Goop is dried, cutout
 the spandex from inside the doughnut.  Drill a small hole in the doughnut
 for a mounting screw that will attach the doughnut to the marker.  You now
 have a conformal loader shaped in a shallow funnel shape that always point
 to the markers loading port.

 Steve Tyng


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Re: [TANKS] Re: KV-2 feed tray issues

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Steve,

Never thought of that, but I had envisioned the funnel concept.  Just never
considered a stretch fabric like that.  It is a great idea.  I think I
would use a grommet for the hole in the fabric though if I were to use the
idea.  A pair of laddies nylons would work for this too.  I tried to
construct a hopper directly above the gun, but using a metal tray.  It fit,
but didn't feed well so it was abandoned.  I bought that GT2000 marker from
Joe S. a long time ago.  Now I need to find a rebuild kit for it since it's
been so long since it's been shot.  I have another one mounted in the
Sturmtiger.

Chris,

The PVC will be replaced by copper as I said in the other Email.  I have
oriented the copper pieces in such a way that the joints are always
stepping down from the tubing to the bends or connectors.  As it shows, it
will hold 24 rounds.  It is only a mock-up to test functionality.  I need
to add additional capacity to get to 40 rounds with either a tray or more
tubing.  Using the current config because of the angles to the gun.  The
gun is angled up higher on the left side.  The balls feed from the left.
 Putting the 180 loop in there allowed a downward feed to the 180 and a
downward feed to the gun regardless of the current elevation or depression
of the gun.  The tubing going across the gun is always higher than the
tubing that is connected to the chamber.

Derek


On Tue, Dec 31, 2013 at 2:36 PM, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:

  even though i haven't gotten to building a feed tube as of yet, i have a
 few questions about yours.

 I see a few 90' bends in it with pvc fitted between them, doesn't that
 cause a drop down point in the copper fittings that can cause the balls to
 hang up?

 like this:

 other than being able to get to your bottle, is there any other reason
 that you used the current feed tube configuration?

 does this feed tube give you your 40 shots?

 chris

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paint%20ball%20feed%20tube.jpg

Re: [TANKS] KV-2 feed tray issues

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I just did some more measurements and I think I can swing a flex PVC pipe
with all 40 balls in a serial loop.  Gonna get some flex PVC tomorrow when
the stores re-open.  I started this tank almost 4 years ago before I went
to Kandahar so it's about time it was a fully operational tank.  I'm off
until Monday so I'm hoping to get some stuff sorted on it.

Derek


On Wed, Dec 25, 2013 at 10:16 AM, jvragu47 jpl...@yahoo.com wrote:

 We actually would need two  more measurements, feed tube on marker  at
 full elevate to top of turret and at full depression to top of turret.


 On Wednesday, December 25, 2013 10:23:36 AM UTC-5, ppttll wrote:

 Derek,

 Like John said, send us pictures of your turret and measure the distance
 from the ball feed on the marker to the top of the turret.

 In my KV-1, T018, I had the paintball hopper in the cupola of the turret.
 That way I could use the entire distance between the gun and the turret top
 as the feed line.

 Paul

 On Dec 24, 2013, at 2:59 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:

  OK, I am about to scrap the entire KV-2 turret and convert this thing
 to something else.  I'm on my 4th iteration of a paintball tray and none
 feed reliably. The problem lies in the height of the gun in the turret, but
 to lower it would require a complete rebuild of the turret.  It would be
 easier to put a .22 blank firer in this thing and say screw ever thinking
 about battling it.  Every time I build a tray, the balls fight to feed and
 get stuck getting out of the tray.  It's REALLY pissing me off.  The only
 design that feeds reliably involves an inline feed line, but that is too
 big to fit in the turret.
 
  Derek

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[TANKS] KV-2 feed tray issues

[Derek Engelhaupt]

OK, I am about to scrap the entire KV-2 turret and convert this thing to
something else.  I'm on my 4th iteration of a paintball tray and none feed
reliably. The problem lies in the height of the gun in the turret, but to
lower it would require a complete rebuild of the turret.  It would be
easier to put a .22 blank firer in this thing and say screw ever thinking
about battling it.  Every time I build a tray, the balls fight to feed and
get stuck getting out of the tray.  It's REALLY pissing me off.  The only
design that feeds reliably involves an inline feed line, but that is too
big to fit in the turret.

Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Hetzer Revelation!

[Derek Engelhaupt]

LOL Steve's poking the RCTC gorilla again...

Derek


On Fri, Dec 20, 2013 at 12:46 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Just noticed this.  The cast armor gun mounting of the Hetzer sits in a
 cutout in the 60mm thick front plate.  The flanged section that holds this
 assembly in place (marked in red in the photo) appears to be well in excess
 of 10mm in thickness.  The net effect of this is that the Hetzer's max
 armor protection is in excess of 70mm (as defined by Tri-Pact measurement
 practices).  Imagine that!   ;-)

 ST



 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-3-NJ__1S-bI/UrSO9eewT1I/AZY/XoHJYsPFHYQ/s1600/Hetzer1.jpg

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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Derek Engelhaupt]

The only other thing I can think of is that if people are concerned about
tank/people accidents is have the battlefield marked off.  The operators
would have to keep outside the battle zone ala 1/16 scale tank type
battling.  It would make aiming much harder, engagement distances short,
safe for the operators, decrease the number of shots fired wildly, and
increase tactics.  Of course this might benefit the fast tanks more than
the slower ones.  The engagement boarder could go 360 degrees so you could
somewhat follow your tank around the field.

Just a thought.

Derek


On Thu, Dec 19, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Jason pilo...@comcast.net wrote:

 Why not simply stand a safe distance from a tank in motion. Say like 15ft.
 I say this simply because I don't like seeing every activity getting
 nerfed and being regulated when using a bit of common sense would be
 plenty sufficient to bring the same results.
 Distance combined with a deadman switch on the throttle where it chops
 throttles to zero on release I would think would add enough of a buffer to
 maintain safety
 Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
 --
 *From: * TyngTech steve...@gmail.com
 *Sender: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Date: *Thu, 19 Dec 2013 11:18:02 -0800 (PST)
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *ReplyTo: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

 I could really care less about the sub 3' tanks.  As you point out, their
 easy enough to take out as any other tank for an experienced battler.  My
 main thoughts are concerning potential 4'+ vehicles.  It's my contention
 that if someone brings one of these to the field one day, we should throw
 them a bone for all the effort in construction and transporting such a
 large paintball target.  My second thought is to set speed limits for
 larger vehicles because as experienced battlers know, a 200 pound beast
 doing 8MPH in the hands of a new driver is just asking for trouble.  I just
 thought it would be nice to address this before some new guy shows up at
 some point with his new 250 pound welded steel 1:6 scale Abrams pushing
 10MPH.

 Giving everything 4/40 is OK with me (yawn).  This fixes the inequity
 foisted upon Joe back in the day, put's my future T-70 on par with the
 Panzer II's, and allows racking up quick an easy points when a 4' monster
 does show up on the field.

 Steve I Care Too Much Tyng



 On Thursday, December 19, 2013 1:46:35 PM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:

 Sure.  But your proposal also makes smaller tanks faster than larger
 tanks which requires speed enforcement (with all the complexities that
 come with it) and which clearly provides smaller tanks with an advantage
 that far outweighs the loss of offense/defense ratings.

 Derek's suggestion to give 40/4 ratings across the board solves a number
 of problems discussed in this thread, has no apparent disadvantages, is
 simple to enforce and (probably) has no un-intended consequences.  Given
 that Joe has proposed something similar in the past and that Doug feels
 it would encourage Armored Car development, it's one of those rare
 proposals that might gain unanimous consent.

 Regarding the small number of tanks shorter than 36, you are certainly
 well aware that smallness of size, in itself, doesn't provide a
 significant advantage.  Anyone who examines the stats compiled for the
 two identical Panzer IIs will quickly see that size doesn't matter.
 Moreover, some of the larger tanks take less hits than the smaller ones.
   Given that most veterans can shoot soldiers in the head from 20-40
 feet out also supports the notion that target size is not as important
 as people want to believe.   Getting rid of the 1:6 scale rule really
 wouldn't change battle outcomes much at all, but it could cause a lot of
 harm to people who (a) want to use commercial parts and/or vehicles or
 (b) want to stay in a common scale because they also do scale modeling.

 First rule of rule making:  Do no harm.

 On 12/19/2013 12:14 PM, TyngTech wrote:
  If you think about it a bit, my current ratings proposal basically
  throws out the 1:6 scale rule and moves us back to the 3' rule BUT adds
  additional 2' and 4' rules to accommodate current and future
 abominations.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Yeah, but most of those were really old Russian tanks.  Mostly Iraqi built
T-72s and maybe a few Chinese Type-69s.

Derek


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 5:00 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.comwrote:

 If I'm not mistaken, didn't U.S. tanks already participate in a tank
 biathlon against Russian-made tanks ... an event called Desert Storm!


 On 12/18/2013 2:51 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

 Perhaps this is the future of RCTC?
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8y8lTjFSQ


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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Derek Engelhaupt]

There are inherent challenges with small vehicles less than 36.  How do
you fit everything you need in such a small chassis?  With the 1/6th rule
it allows people to try to fit stuff in a smaller tank like the 21st
Century Stuart M5 or my original tank destroyer that I planned on building
- the ASU-85.  There were technical challenges I just couldn't overcome
with that tank having to do with the way the drive line was built on the
real tank.  I couldn't replicate it so that it would be durable enough for
combat.  I do like the 36 rule as in I wouldn't mind if all vehicles had
to be made to that length.  You could build anything to any size you wanted
as long as it was 36 long.  I mean even a 36 long Mule is possible to
build.  The scale would be weird, but it's not like there is a standard
scale now.  As it stands now being that both the 36 rule or 1/6th scale is
allowed, it does mean my 21st Century Hummers could compete as supply
vehicles.  Dropping the 1/6th part would disqualify them.  Same goes for my
M113.  It's slightly less than 36 in 1/6th scale.  I like 1/6th so that
all of my tanks are the same scale and if I decide to add props or detail,
the parts are readily available.  So even though I would adhere to a 36
rule, I like that both are an option.

There are tons of tanks and APCs that I would have liked to build if the
4/40 rule was available across the board.  As it is, there were many
designs I passed up due to armor thickness or gun caliber short falls.

From playing World of Tanks, I can positively say that forcing a firing
delay circuit on the marker would change the game dynamic drastically.  I
don't think it would be bad though.  It tends to make you rethink your
tactics.  If you don't want to shoot and wait for a better shot, then go
for it.  If you want to shoot and take the chance on a hit.  Go for it.
 That's just tactics and tactics is what this hobby is about.  Just be
prepared for you opponent to open fire on you after you take your shot.  :)
 The timing circuit would put more of an equalizer on the faster tanks
since they couldn't just strafe by and nail your side with 4 shots in one
pass.  It would lead to longer engagements, but also more thought as to how
you can approach your enemy for the kill.

In closing, my proposals are this:

1.  4/40 for all tanks regardless of scale or size
2.  frontal exclusion for all
3.  standard rate of fire that limits one ball every 1 sec
4.  keep the 36 or 1/6th rule

Derek


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 5:47 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yeah, but most of those were really old Russian tanks.  Mostly Iraqi built
 T-72s and maybe a few Chinese Type-69s.

 Derek


 On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 5:00 PM, Frank Pittelli 
 frank.pitte...@gmail.comwrote:

 If I'm not mistaken, didn't U.S. tanks already participate in a tank
 biathlon against Russian-made tanks ... an event called Desert Storm!


 On 12/18/2013 2:51 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

 Perhaps this is the future of RCTC?
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8y8lTjFSQ


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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Derek Engelhaupt]

The face to face thing happens in WOT all the time.  The one that ends up
getting through the armor first wins, but there it's all virtual so I can
rub the tank I'm facing off with.  There is of course the ramming aspect of
WOT which I would not promote for our vehicles.  This isn't robot combat
afterall.

John,

No controversy, I know you are kidding.  Hey if you want to carry an extra
set of balls around in you pants, I say go for it.  :)

Derek


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:02 PM, dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

  frontal exclusion for all

 I think that treating armored cars the same way as tanks with regard to
 frontal hits will help bring new members to the hobby. A tank-steered (as
 opposed to front wheel steered) armored car is probably the simplest
 mobile, firing, asset to produce. That said, I don't know how many newbies
 decided not to build an A/C because the rules were against them.

 I understand Steve's comment about historical accuracy. One of the
 fundamental principles of the rules has been to field as wide an
 asset variety as possible without too much regard for the performance of
 the actual vehicle. Using common tank and A/C rules will help do that.

   - Doug

 --
 *From: *Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent: *Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:19:28 PM

 *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

 There are inherent challenges with small vehicles less than 36.  How do
 you fit everything you need in such a small chassis?  With the 1/6th rule
 it allows people to try to fit stuff in a smaller tank like the 21st
 Century Stuart M5 or my original tank destroyer that I planned on building
 - the ASU-85.  There were technical challenges I just couldn't overcome
 with that tank having to do with the way the drive line was built on the
 real tank.  I couldn't replicate it so that it would be durable enough for
 combat.  I do like the 36 rule as in I wouldn't mind if all vehicles had
 to be made to that length.  You could build anything to any size you wanted
 as long as it was 36 long.  I mean even a 36 long Mule is possible to
 build.  The scale would be weird, but it's not like there is a standard
 scale now.  As it stands now being that both the 36 rule or 1/6th scale is
 allowed, it does mean my 21st Century Hummers could compete as supply
 vehicles.  Dropping the 1/6th part would disqualify them.  Same goes for my
 M113.  It's slightly less than 36 in 1/6th scale.  I like 1/6th so that
 all of my tanks are the same scale and if I decide to add props or detail,
 the parts are readily available.  So even though I would adhere to a 36
 rule, I like that both are an option.

 There are tons of tanks and APCs that I would have liked to build if the
 4/40 rule was available across the board.  As it is, there were many
 designs I passed up due to armor thickness or gun caliber short falls.

 From playing World of Tanks, I can positively say that forcing a firing
 delay circuit on the marker would change the game dynamic drastically.  I
 don't think it would be bad though.  It tends to make you rethink your
 tactics.  If you don't want to shoot and wait for a better shot, then go
 for it.  If you want to shoot and take the chance on a hit.  Go for it.
  That's just tactics and tactics is what this hobby is about.  Just be
 prepared for you opponent to open fire on you after you take your shot.  :)
  The timing circuit would put more of an equalizer on the faster tanks
 since they couldn't just strafe by and nail your side with 4 shots in one
 pass.  It would lead to longer engagements, but also more thought as to how
 you can approach your enemy for the kill.

 In closing, my proposals are this:

 1.  4/40 for all tanks regardless of scale or size
 2.  frontal exclusion for all
 3.  standard rate of fire that limits one ball every 1 sec
 4.  keep the 36 or 1/6th rule

 Derek


 On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 5:47 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 Yeah, but most of those were really old Russian tanks.  Mostly Iraqi
 built T-72s and maybe a few Chinese Type-69s.

 Derek


 On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 5:00 PM, Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com
  wrote:

 If I'm not mistaken, didn't U.S. tanks already participate in a tank
 biathlon against Russian-made tanks ... an event called Desert Storm!


 On 12/18/2013 2:51 PM, Mike Lyons wrote:

 Perhaps this is the future of RCTC?
 http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qL8y8lTjFSQ


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Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I guess the speed limit rule to me would cause me concern.  To me, if I can
get my 150lb. KV-2 doing 6-7 miles per hour so be it.  If you can't get out
of the way of a runaway tank doing 6mph on the battlefield, maybe you
shouldn't be on the battlefield... :)  That's why there are external kill
switches.  I specifically built my tanks (Sturmtiger and KV-2) for a couple
of reasons.  They were within my skills to build, I liked both, they both
have a 4/40 rating, and both had short barreled guns.  I don't like long
barrels since they can get in your way maneuvering or by smacking stuff.  I
know I wouldn't have to simulate the real barrel length to battle, but I am
a firm believer in maintaining the integrity of the tank design regardless
of how poorly my construction skills are in recreating it.  I try to make
my tanks as close to the design as possible.  I've never been to a battle
so take my opinion for what it's worth, but I do have 3 assets that move
under their own power even though they aren't battle ready.  So there was
really on one reason to build my tanks that dictated the build - the 40/4
rating.  If either had a lower rating, I would have found a different
design.

I think as most of us can see by Steve's suggestion for ratings, he is
*clearly* trying to take the competitiveness out of the new Pittelli tanks
and is threatened by them...lol  J/K Steve...

Derek


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:30 PM, dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 I believe there are very few armored cars in the hobby directly because of
 the rules. Also, I shied away from building a Bradley AFV because the rules
 put it at a disadvantage.

 I agree with either proposed change: make everything 4/40 or base the
 stats on length.

 In addition, I think speed limits make sense. Finally, the frontal hit
 exclusion rule should be abolished (my preference), or applied equally to
 both tanks and armored cars.

 One rule I wish we had but is probably unenforceable is a rate of fire
 limit. It's ludicrous to let tanks fire a few times per second.

- Doug

 --
 *From: *neroc1 funkyne...@ntlworld.com
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent: *Tuesday, December 17, 2013 6:08:31 PM
 *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: About time to implement discussed rules update


 Isaac , there are very sensible safety reasons why speed limits were set,

 Steve , your length of asset suggestion make good logic to me .

 Id like to rephrase my question :-

 Does anyone have knowledge of anyone who was going to build a tank (of any
 type/scale) but consequently did not build any tank at all, directly
 because of the rules?

 in other words,  are there less tanks (on the planet) because of any
 particular rule ?

 Neil R

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Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I will build a Maus one day in 1/6th scale just because I want to (maybe to
pull tree stumps, lol), but finances and marital situation have stalled
most of my forward tank progress.  I'm away from my tools all week and on
the weekends there always seems to be some teenage daughter activities or
household operational issues finding time to work on the tanks.  New shoes
for the Miata will take precedence over buying the new batteries for the
KV-2, etc, etc  Also with no operational tanks near me, a battle is
merely a pipe dream at this point.

Derek


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 6:08 PM, Guy Gregoire guygregoire...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Me I have one E-100  started already, I just love its rounded side hull.
 Its 1/6 scale and... its big yes... but I don't care, as honestly I don't
 plan to use it in combat...
 even if it will be in working condition, RC and Marker.  I have a 1/6 KT
 that run wonderfully.

 I have no doubt that if I show up with the E-100 I will be able to use
 it... even if for some
 burocratic reason he don't register his hits and disses... after all ..
 the pleasure
 of running it in the grass and fight... even if it offer the biggest
 target ever.. would be of far
 superior interest than its entry in the book of record.

  As we speak.. only the frame of the lower hull of the E-100 is build, and
 its getting cold to do more for the winter, but next summer it will be the
 first thing I work on.

 --
 From: panthergol...@gmail.com
 Date: Mon, 16 Dec 2013 16:46:04 -0500

 Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100
 To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com


 I should specify having said the above that I agree with you the rules are
 well written from the standpoint that it matters only slightly what tank I
 build, and when its from. My t34-85 wont be outclassed by the guy who built
 an M103


 On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 4:44 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Even if you build for the 36 inch rule, you still need to scale the other
 dimensions appropriately; height and width must be scaled down to match the
 scale. The result is still a large target silhouette from the side and
 rear...


 On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 2:52 PM, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:


  Think I have to respectfully disagree that they are a disadvantage.  The
 super-heavies can be built to the 36 rule versus the 1/6th rule.  That
 would lighten the tank considerably.

  That is the beauty of the rules as they stand.  A person can build a tank
 for playbility, scaled realism, or even both.  Before building my first
 tank, I was fretting about which tank to build that would not give me a
 disadvantage.  After finally making a battle, I see that tank choice is
 really more about building what I like and overcoming the obstacles of
 getting it built more than what advantage/disadvantage the tank might
 possibly have on the field.  In the end, just making a battle with my own
 tank was a better reward than waiting to build the perfect tank.

  As for Steve's question:  in all honestly I would like to build a
 prototype vehicle, but realistically know that it wouldn't happen soon or
 even within the next few years even if protos are approved for the game.

 Mike


   *From:* isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com
 *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2013 11:00 AM

 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

  ^^ Stop telling us to put our money where our mouths are :P Id like to
 build an E50 if the rules allowed it, but im not especially bothered they
 dont, and even if they did id be in no rush to start...

 There are two reasons imo why the super-heavy tanks are unlikely to work
 well in the meta-game.
 Firstly, same problems as real life; slow, cumbersome, big target, dont
 like mud and soft ground etc.
 Secondly, they are huge for no advantage in the game per the rules. If we
 added a defensive rating of 5 for tanks that were over 100 tons (not that
 im advocating this directly, just pointing out an option), then at least
 there would be some advantage to being the size of a duplex...




 On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 11:37 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 These prototype questions come up every so often.  I was wondering, to
 those lurkers (and not-so lurkers) on the list.  How many of you would
 actually complete a combat ready tank if you could build that E-100, PL-01,
 or any other proto-design that's been discussed over the years?  Go ahead,
 be honest.

 Steve Tyng


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Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Ferdi's were production vehicles...


On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 10:44 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 ^^ I wouldnt say that.
 1) He may not plan on entering his E100 in the battles, at which point you
 dont have jurisdiction. My t34-85 is being made to conform to your rules,
 because i hope to enter it. My ferdiand, of which i have no intention of
 taking to the field with, is not.
 2) The rules may simply have been relaxed; a mild steel prototype hull of
 the e100 was built. Personally i would say any design that made it off the
 paper and onto a proving grounds is valid, but thats my 0.02 and not the
 official interpretation.


 On Fri, Dec 13, 2013 at 11:29 AM, Jason pilo...@comcast.net wrote:

 I take it the rule saying tank has to have been produced is scrapped?
 Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile
 --
 *From: * TyngTech steve...@gmail.com
 *Sender: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Date: *Fri, 13 Dec 2013 08:05:57 -0800 (PST)
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *ReplyTo: * rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Subject: *Re: [TANKS] Re: The E-100

 That PL-01 tank looks like a mild update of the once rumored Panzer II
 Ausf G (a Plasticine up-armoured F).  I say once rumored because
 it's my understanding that the F variant (or more like pieces of) have
 now been excavated near Wilhelmstraße 77 Berlin.  I'm sure the elder
 Pittelli can verify this from his private library of arcane German tank
 technology.  So long story short, go ahead and build that Panzer II in
 the uTube video and any and all at the battlefield will happily and
 lovingly sent as much paint it's way as humanly possible!

 Steve It's All In The Registered Name Tyng



 On Friday, December 13, 2013 6:03:35 AM UTC-5, fan fan wrote:

 Oh come on, those multi-turreted ground cruisers are obviously
 unmanageable by current rules. But the PL-01 is just a regular tank with
 different shape.

 On Thursday, December 12, 2013 11:56:08 AM UTC-8, TyngTech wrote:

 Maybe to entice some of the warship crowd into the better side of the
 combat hobby, we could allow some of the Naval inspired proto designs.  The
 Landcruiser 1000 Ratte comes to mind, a mountain of steel with a heavy
 cruiser's turret on top!

 ST


 http://daily-steampunk.com/steampunk-blog/wp-content/uploads/2010/07/P__1000_Ratte_Tank_Cutaway_by_VonBrrr.jpg

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Tyng Labs Open Invitation

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Well, if we could get another person with a lathe on the west coast we
would have tanker lathe services across the country... :)

Derek


On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:17 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

  Is this the show your lathe thread?

 Nope, this is not the show you lathe thread.  It's the lets extol the
 virtues of the TyngTech Rockville MD facilities thread!

 Nice lathe BTW.

 Steve

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Tyng Labs Open Invitation

[Derek Engelhaupt]

With a little looking at my lathe again, I was able to get the broken tool
post remounted using a threaded steel plate that came with it and reversing
the post itself so that there were fresh threads going into the mounting
hole on the longitudinal slide.  The steel plate added some additional
stability to the base of the tool post so I'm up and cutting metal again!
 I still have a few broken parts that need to be replaced, but I can get
those ordered next week.

Derek


On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Well, if we could get another person with a lathe on the west coast we
 would have tanker lathe services across the country... :)

 Derek


 On Fri, Nov 22, 2013 at 7:17 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

  Is this the show your lathe thread?

 Nope, this is not the show you lathe thread.  It's the lets extol the
 virtues of the TyngTech Rockville MD facilities thread!

 Nice lathe BTW.

 Steve

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Re: [TANKS] Chains vs Gears for Gear Reduction

[Derek ENGELHAUPT]

Chains and sprockets are simpler and cheaper.  JMHO.

Derek

Sent from my iPhone

 On Nov 17, 2013, at 8:25 PM, Michael michaelcharlesgr...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 Thanks for sharing your experience.
 
 On Sunday, November 17, 2013 4:11:54 PM UTC-5, odyssey...@aol.com wrote:
 as for gears vs sprockets, i don't think you have as much freedom to play 
 around when using gears as to using sprockets. with gears (to me) they have 
 to be in an exact place for them to work with the next gear and also takes 
 away from being able to freely take out a gear and replace it with a 
 different one (more or less teeth count) to add or decrease rpm's as now it 
 won't be able to fit into that same space properly. but using sprockets and 
 chain i think you have a bit more room to play. below is a picture of one of 
 my motor/trany's and if i find that i want to change something i can and not 
 have to do anything else other than lengthen or shorten the chain.
  
 but if you have everything worked out (rpm's, gears, etc) and are able to 
 build a nice gear box, build the gear box, but if your not sure, i'd go with 
 something a bit more forgiving to work with and use sprockets and chain
  
 
 
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Re: [TANKS] Machined Aluminum Track

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Which is why I bought my steel tracks... :)

Derek


On Fri, Nov 8, 2013 at 10:45 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 And people say the TTS is time consuming!

 Very nice work BTW.

 Steve


 On Friday, November 8, 2013 8:18:43 AM UTC-5, Frank Pittelli wrote:

 Welcome back.  Nice work.  Is the drive hub made using Delrin?

 On 11/6/2013 7:38 PM, Mark_123522 wrote:
  I have T074 and have not been active on this site for about 4 years or
 so,
  Check out the all machined track.

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Re: [TANKS] Gearbox chains?

[Derek ENGELHAUPT]

Yup.  25 pitch is plenty strong for our purposes.

Derek

Sent from my iPhone

 On Oct 17, 2013, at 8:15 AM, morrdubay morrdu...@yahoo.ca wrote:
 
 Hi me and a few friend are just starting out and was wondering about 
 gearboxes. The motors we want to use have a #25 chain sprockets on them but 
 it seems that many tank on here have #35 chain on them. Is it possible to use 
 a #25 chain for the first reduction and use #35 for the second?
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Re: [TANKS] Tyng Labs Open Invitation

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Keep an eye on Craigslist for the metal lathe.  Got my 9x20 on there for a
decent price.

Derek


On Tue, Oct 15, 2013 at 8:35 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 To anybody within an easy drive of Rockville MD.  The Tyng Lab facilities
 are available for weekend afternoons this winter (depending on my schedule
 of course).  My shop is to the point where I can start doing useful things
 again so if you want to start (or finish) that tank, build an R/C warship,
 bang together that set of bookends, or just hang out, drop me a line.
  Available tools include a 10 tablesaw, floor drill press, 12 mitersaw,
 sanding station, air nailers, collection of hand tools, etc.  I'm looking
 to acquire a decent 10 bandsaw and a small metal lathe if anybody knows of
 any good deals.

 Beyond the facilities, guests will of course have access to yours truly,
 one of the premiere design and construction talents of R/C Tank Combat!

 Steve Tyng

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Marker trigger techniques

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I just use a mini-servo that actuates a micro switch.

Derek


On Fri, Oct 11, 2013 at 10:18 AM, dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Described here:

 https://home.comcast.net/~dwconn404/RCTank/M1045/M1045Electronic.htm



 --
 *From: *Mike Lyons mxly...@cox.net
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent: *Friday, October 11, 2013 9:05:48 AM
 *Subject: *[TANKS] Re: Marker trigger techniques


 RL001 Bazooka Joe uses an electronic marker.
 A Dimension Engineering PicoSwitch has its relay contacts wired in
 parallel with the original trigger microswitch which is left in place.

 After much frustration I found the PicoSwitch does NOT turn on with a
 full width 2.25ms pulse nor off with a 0.75ms pulse.
 It does work reliably with pulse widths of 2.00 and 1.00 ms respectively.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

[Derek Engelhaupt]

What kind of charger do you use to avoid over charging the batteries?

Derek


On Mon, Sep 23, 2013 at 11:14 AM, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:

  I haven't worried overmuch about the low voltage cutoff in my ships
 nor T81.  The ships ESCs have an automatic low voltage cutoff.  Not sure
 off hand if T81's ESC had a low voltage cutoff.  Either way, if the
 ship/tank was obviously running slow then it was time to stop even if the
 issue was not a low battery voltage but something else.

  The only time I have knowingly run down a LiFE pack was in a small
 pre-drednaught on it's third sortie.  The ship's pump is agressively
 motored and by the third sortie the pump stream was wilting fast and the
 ship slow ... obvious signs that the LiFE cells had reached near the end of
 their capacity (LiFE, NiCads, NiMH, etc hold voltage levels until nearly
 exhausted).  The cells recharged without showing any damage.

  For the battery I linked earlier, I would pop the top off and install the
 single cell balancers on each cell before popping the top back on.  That
 will ensure the pack stays balanced and lets the pack be charged
 with one charger versus the multiple single cell chargers I use to charge
 each cell individually to keep voltage balance.  Even so, there is no
 problems with field charging the entire pack during the day and then
 topping off the individual cells in the evening with the single cell
 chargers.  Kinda a manual way of cell balancing that has worked well the
 past couple years.

  Hope this helped more than it confused.  :)

 Mike


   *From:* Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Friday, September 20, 2013 3:20 PM

 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

  From what I'm reading, the LIFEPO4 bats can't go below 2.4V or you risk
 damage to the individual cells.  Since the BMS controls the balancing of
 the cells while charging and has the low voltage cutoff function, wouldn't
 you be better off just using a BMS since the PCB doesn't have a low voltage
 cutoff or overcharge protection?  Just trying to get better educated on the
 cells before dropping the cash...

 Derek


 On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 2:45 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, they break open the packs and extract the individual cells.

 S


 On Friday, September 20, 2013 2:38:02 PM UTC-4, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mike,

 I have some questions for you about those packs.  I know I would have to
 buy two and wire them in series to produce 24V like I do with my SLAs.  I
 understand that part, but the PCB won't fit those terminals.  Do you or can
 you open up the battery and install the PCB on the individual cells in the
 pack?  Does the PCB act like a BMS circuit?

 Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Under normal conditions the motors don't pull 30 amps, but I have blown a
30 amp fuse on the Sturmtiger using the same motors.  18AH batteries are
sufficient using SLAs for most tanks.  I'm just really not sure about what
size LIFEPO4 battery pack I should use.  I was demonstrating the KV-2 to
some people that visited us and the two 7AH batteries got really hot.  One
was so hot that it started to bulge so I really need to find a sufficient
battery pack for this beast.  I was thinking that the 20AH packs would be
sufficient to power it.  Problem with going over 20AH is price.

Derek


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 7:30 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Max discharging current : 30 Amps.

 If you happen to pull more than 30 amps total the battery will shut down
 on you. Your going to want to make sure running both drive motors doesnt
 pull more than that...


 On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 7:56 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would say that on this unit, the BMS is integral to the case.  I don't
 see any connectors or wiring that would indicate an external BMS unlike
 this sellers 15AH solution.


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-15AH-LiFePo4-battery-Lithium-Electric-Bicycle-Scooter-Rechargeable-Battery-/221280643607?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batterieshash=item33855aaa17

 Steve


 On Friday, September 20, 2013 4:52:59 AM UTC-4, Neil Rochford wrote:

 Cant grumble at the price, I`ve been looking at something like this for
 my e-bike that I can also use in my tank. Im just a little concerned about
 reliability of a technology I dont understand, Does the BMS come part of
 the battery box ( integrity built in ) or does it require finding a home in
 the tank somewhere ?.
 Think how much weight would 2 X 12v SLA  20AH be ? compare that to 4.8kg
 wonderful stuff imo.but remember I know nothing 8)

 Neil



 On Thursday, September 19, 2013 8:59:16 PM UTC-7, tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 What do you guys think of this one?  Kind of a nice setup with a
 voltmeter, on/off switch, quick disconnects, charging port, and a charger.
  All in a nice neat package.  I'm looking at it for the KV-2 so it will fit
 in that tank.  It's about 7x3x10 from my quick calculations.

 http://www.ebay.com/itm/**321207262810?ssPageName=STRK:**
 MEWAX:VRI_trksid=p3984.m1423.**l2661http://www.ebay.com/itm/321207262810?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661

 Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Soldier and tank combat

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Wow...is that actually Amir?  I guess that's his once every couple of
months post... :)

Derek
T065
SV016


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 1:25 PM, Amir Tahvildaran amird...@gmail.comwrote:

 Here's what I got from that: i would love 5 men :-)

 -Amir


 On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 2:19 PM, Doug Smith comman...@combatships.comwrote:

 I have mentioned this option before to enhance Tank  combat by.
  Insertion of a twenty dollar automatic airsoft mini machine gun in a tank
 modified to hold 3-400 shells. Scenarios could cheaply and easily be set up
 to place advancing troops on the field. A two foot  by six inch piece of
 plywood with plastic army figures That have a base glued to the bottom of
 them spread apart randomly every 2-3 inches.  It would not be worth your
 cannon fire to try and hit all unless you were to flank them. The machine
 gun could be fixed and aimed by moving the track on the tank to aim.  You
 would need to be ten to twenty feet away or the soldiers could  fire a
 bazooka or afix a bomb to your tank. You realistically could not just run
 over them since they would just run away. Your job as a tank commander is
 to protect your troops, your tank and move your army forwad. For every town
 you conquer you earn battle points.  Every 5-10 minutes you stop play and
 move your troops up or not. The goal is to get your troops to the next town
 without losing all your tanks or men.  for fifty  bucks you could have 200+
 men on the field. You could have more realistic battles than just target
 shooting each others tanks. Field troops could have battles also. When they
 get within 10 feet of each other combat begins. after the 5-10 interval
 each side losses a man based on the size of the other army. Example If I
 had 20 soldiers and you had 50 i would love 5 men and you would lose 2 men
 rounding up and down as the numbers change. This would necessitate tank
 intervention to even the odds.  You may have to risk a tank to save your
 troops.  A few paintballs and some airsoft amo could save the day and turn
 the tide of battle.  Let me know what you think?   Commander Doug

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Mike,

I have some questions for you about those packs.  I know I would have to
buy two and wire them in series to produce 24V like I do with my SLAs.  I
understand that part, but the PCB won't fit those terminals.  Do you or can
you open up the battery and install the PCB on the individual cells in the
pack?  Does the PCB act like a BMS circuit?

Derek


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 11:17 AM, Mike Mangus mikem5...@yahoo.com wrote:

  A realtively good cost for the 20Ah LiFE cells can be found at
 http://www.batteryspace.com/LiFePO4-Prismatic-Box-Battery-12.8V-20Ah-256Wh-10C-rate-without-PCM.aspx.
 The plastic case contains four 20Ah cells and does not come with a battery
 management system.   Many guys in the model warship world are using these
 cells with a simple balancer found at
 http://www.batteryspace.com/Smart-LED-Balance-Module-for-3.2V-LFP-Cell-with-250mA-Balance-Current.aspx.
 One balancer across each cell helps keep the cells balanced to each other
 without limiting the output current.  The cells themselves are good for a
 continuous 200 amp draw.

  I switched my combat ships to these cells (and the Headway cylindrical
 10ah cells for smaller ships) a couple years ago and have never looked
 back.  Half the weight and more capacity than a similir sized SLA, longer
 cycle life, and they don't dump voltage under load.  My ships can battle
 all day on one charge ... heck, I don't even take a charger out to the pond
 anymore.

  Wish I could make it up for the upcoming battle.   T81 is still awaiting
 its time on the building schedule to get remotered.  SV15 is even further
 down on the schedule requiring a total rebuild from the suspension up.
 Lastly the semi-secrete tank project is stalled as other higher priority
 projects compete for time.  Still, the goal is to have all three assets
 operational by the 2014 Spring Battle.  :)

 Mike M

   *From:* Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com
 *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent:* Friday, September 20, 2013 9:12 AM
 *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

  Under normal conditions the motors don't pull 30 amps, but I have blown
 a 30 amp fuse on the Sturmtiger using the same motors.  18AH batteries are
 sufficient using SLAs for most tanks.  I'm just really not sure about what
 size LIFEPO4 battery pack I should use.  I was demonstrating the KV-2 to
 some people that visited us and the two 7AH batteries got really hot.  One
 was so hot that it started to bulge so I really need to find a sufficient
 battery pack for this beast.  I was thinking that the 20AH packs would be
 sufficient to power it.  Problem with going over 20AH is price.

 Derek


 On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 7:30 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Max discharging current : 30 Amps.

 If you happen to pull more than 30 amps total the battery will shut down
 on you. Your going to want to make sure running both drive motors doesnt
 pull more than that...


 On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 7:56 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 I would say that on this unit, the BMS is integral to the case.  I don't
 see any connectors or wiring that would indicate an external BMS unlike
 this sellers 15AH solution.


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-15AH-LiFePo4-battery-Lithium-Electric-Bicycle-Scooter-Rechargeable-Battery-/221280643607?pt=US_Rechargeable_Batterieshash=item33855aaa17

 Steve


 On Friday, September 20, 2013 4:52:59 AM UTC-4, Neil Rochford wrote:

 Cant grumble at the price, I`ve been looking at something like this for my
 e-bike that I can also use in my tank. Im just a little concerned about
 reliability of a technology I dont understand, Does the BMS come part of
 the battery box ( integrity built in ) or does it require finding a home in
 the tank somewhere ?.
 Think how much weight would 2 X 12v SLA  20AH be ? compare that to 4.8kg
 wonderful stuff imo.but remember I know nothing 8)

 Neil



 On Thursday, September 19, 2013 8:59:16 PM UTC-7, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 What do you guys think of this one?  Kind of a nice setup with a
 voltmeter, on/off switch, quick disconnects, charging port, and a charger.
  All in a nice neat package.  I'm looking at it for the KV-2 so it will fit
 in that tank.  It's about 7x3x10 from my quick calculations.


 http://www.ebay.com/itm/321207262810?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661

 Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Battery find

[Derek Engelhaupt]

From what I'm reading, the LIFEPO4 bats can't go below 2.4V or you risk
damage to the individual cells.  Since the BMS controls the balancing of
the cells while charging and has the low voltage cutoff function, wouldn't
you be better off just using a BMS since the PCB doesn't have a low voltage
cutoff or overcharge protection?  Just trying to get better educated on the
cells before dropping the cash...

Derek


On Fri, Sep 20, 2013 at 2:45 PM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Yes, they break open the packs and extract the individual cells.

 S


 On Friday, September 20, 2013 2:38:02 PM UTC-4, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Mike,

 I have some questions for you about those packs.  I know I would have to
 buy two and wire them in series to produce 24V like I do with my SLAs.  I
 understand that part, but the PCB won't fit those terminals.  Do you or can
 you open up the battery and install the PCB on the individual cells in the
 pack?  Does the PCB act like a BMS circuit?

 Derek

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[TANKS] Battery find

[Derek Engelhaupt]

What do you guys think of this one?  Kind of a nice setup with a voltmeter,
on/off switch, quick disconnects, charging port, and a charger.  All in a
nice neat package.  I'm looking at it for the KV-2 so it will fit in that
tank.  It's about 7x3x10 from my quick calculations.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/321207262810?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:VRI_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2661

Derek

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Re: [TANKS] Installing a Trigger Push Button into an R/C Transmitter

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Did this on my DX6i


On Tue, Sep 17, 2013 at 11:02 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 I was recently asked how to install a trigger push button into an R/C
 transmitter (Tx).  I've been asked this several times over the years and
 since I have a new Tx I need to do this to, I thought I'd take some pics of
 this very easy project and make this tutorial.  A push button trigger
 upgrade for an R/C paintball tank controller is highly recommended in that
 your trigger mechanism will not be accidentally left on if you forget to
 turn off a Tx toggle switch.  This can be an issue if using door-lock
 actuators for your trigger in that leaving them on will burn them out.  A
 push button is also more intuitive to use and faster firing than a toggle
 (or a joystick) when firing in the heat of battle.

 The following steps can generally be used on most similar transmitters as
 their all typically built the same.  I don't need to remind anybody that
 going through with this project will of course void any warranties.


 The victim, a brand new Spektrum DX5e right out of the box.  This is a
 typical low-end 5 channel radio built for R/C airplanes but is perfectly
 suitable for R/C tank combat, especially since it's a 2.4ghz unit (which is
 legal for ground models most anywhere).



 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-4zFK3hHXXF8/Ujhf7Y02ktI/AR4/Kdf4oeCTCmY/s1600/2013-09-17+06.55.25.jpg


 The channel we will be using for the trigger is number 5 on this Tx.   On
 other radios this may be marked as flaps or landing gear.  This channel,
 since it's on a toggle and is either all the way off or all on makes it
 perfect for a trigger.


 https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-BBF0-8qMRtw/UjhjH0y67_I/ASE/gB8ep_HOL3Y/s1600/2013-09-17+06.56.02.jpg


 The push button will be installed in an existing hole on the right side of
 the Tx (since I'm right handed).  These rubber plugged holes are positions
 where additional toggle switches would be located on a higher-end version
 of this Tx.  Most 5 and 6 channel radios will have spare locations such as
 this that you could install a push button.  On some radios, they may not be
 as obvious as this one, but hidden behind trim plates and such.  If there's
 no holes, you can always make one with a drill.  If for whatever odd reason
 you would want the push button on the left side, you can easily move the
 channel 5 toggle to the right and install the push button on the left.


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-U3QqRji0xUU/UjhnEVi6McI/ASY/wMdkamyi70Y/s1600/2013-09-17+06.57.36.jpg


 Here's the Tx opened up.  It only took six screws to get this particular
 unit open.  Be careful when opening a Tx, as it will be easy to snag and
 stress the wires that will be running all over the place.  Also, make sure
 the batteries ARE REMOVED!


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-8DUTY9Hi-cw/Ujhmu-cvtaI/ASQ/IH_qLt0oKfc/s1600/2013-09-17+06.56.56.jpg


 Here's the backside of the channel 5 toggle switch.  I will not be
 replacing it but wiring the push button inline with it.  This effectively
 turns the toggle into an arming switch for the trigger.


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-kaKjGFzovww/UjhoePAe2-I/ASk/HdY-wZhtgdg/s1600/2013-09-17+06.57.06.jpg


 The rubber plug is removed at the switch position I want to use.  It
 needed to be enlarged a bit to fit the push button.


 https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ceTEQvp7xqU/UjhtDWPyqLI/ASw/T3pGX-2gRCI/s1600/2013-09-17+07.05.09.jpg


 These are typical push buttons that work well for this application.  They
 were both sourced from Radio Shack.  You will need what are called Normally
 Open (NO) switches.  This means that when not depressed (normal state)
 there is no connection between the two contacts.  When depressed, the
 circuit is closed between the two contacts.  I will be using the larger
 switch because it looks more impressive on the Tx, and as everyone knows,
 looks are half the game when it comes to your R/C battle tech gear!


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-AdMg0XQcc68/UjhtwbafvLI/AS4/30UkiwhNu_0/s1600/2013-09-17+07.01.51.jpg


 Don't ever throw perfectly good wire away!  This wiring harness came out
 of an old hardrive enclosure that was chucked.  The wires are the perfect
 size for this project.


 https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-xuel8wbmZ14/UjhuzgUGfRI/ATE/oR0w-s0sRYQ/s1600/2013-09-17+07.16.23.jpg


 Wires are soldered to the push button.


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-cO9GyKqMSDY/UjhvN_lrWMI/ATM/V4AA3gmU_y8/s1600/2013-09-17+07.21.49.jpg


 Ready to void the warranty?  If so, CUT ONLY ONE of the wires going to the
 channel 5 toggle switch.  Don't cut both, ONLY ONE and it doesn't matter
 which one.


 https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Jjcch02P6Bk/UjhvatcU9_I/ATU/TjbT4McRxR8/s1600/2013-09-17+07.25.33.jpg


 Strip, twist and solder the wires from the push button onto the channel 5
 wiring as shown.  If your not a good solderer, small 

Re: [TANKS] Re: suspension in and ready for testing

[Derek Engelhaupt]

If you look closelyhe made it.  The steel plates are welded to ordinary
2060 chain.  Or at least it looks like 2060 pitch.

Derek


On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:19 PM, Jacob jacobweber2...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Where did you get the C2060H A1 chain? I am desperately looking for some
 in the USA.

 On Sunday, August 25, 2013 4:47:02 AM UTC-6, Grant Stonnell wrote:

 Have attached all the suspension units and fitted road wheels.



 Put on track so it’s ready to spin over and load test it.



 Will lift a pallet up under the tank to take its weight (and that of the
 jig) with batteries etc in it so I can see how the suspension will ride.



 Once that is done I will be able to cut the tracks to the right length
 and join them, then I will be able to run them up to see were the road
 wheels will want to track.





 You can see here the suspension units running along the inside of the hull

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Re: [TANKS] Re: suspension in and ready for testing

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I found some Rexnord 1864K4.5 chain for my KV-2 that runs on 60 pitch
sprockets.  Got it for about $100 for 20ft. of it on Ebay.  I made the guy
an offer for half of what he was asking for it and he sold it to me.  Looks
like this only this one is 3.25 wide:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-REXNORD-TABLETOP-CARBON-STEEL-CHAIN-3-1864K3-25-/200271502071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0hash=item2ea11c9af7

The steel pads actually come off the chain, but they are a bitch to remove
and to re-install.  They will not come off in a battle.


On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:25 PM, Jacob jacobweber2...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Oh ok.. My bad. I dont have a welder, and certainly dont have the time to
 do that. So I am looking for that C2060H A1, or A2, or K1, or K2 chains.

 On Monday, August 26, 2013 10:20:57 PM UTC-6, tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 If you look closelyhe made it.  The steel plates are welded to
 ordinary 2060 chain.  Or at least it looks like 2060 pitch.

 Derek


 On Mon, Aug 26, 2013 at 11:19 PM, Jacob jacobwe...@hotmail.com wrote:

 Where did you get the C2060H A1 chain? I am desperately looking for some
 in the USA.

 On Sunday, August 25, 2013 4:47:02 AM UTC-6, Grant Stonnell wrote:

 Have attached all the suspension units and fitted road wheels.



 Put on track so it’s ready to spin over and load test it.



 Will lift a pallet up under the tank to take its weight (and that of
 the jig) with batteries etc in it so I can see how the suspension will 
 ride.



 Once that is done I will be able to cut the tracks to the right length
 and join them, then I will be able to run them up to see were the road
 wheels will want to track.





 You can see here the suspension units running along the inside of the
 hull

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Re: [TANKS] Quartermaster Provision Requisition

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I have the time off to attend, but given my current situation (divorcing
the wife of 17 years) I won't be able to attend.  This is a fairly recent
change in status so it's not in the cards this year.


On Wed, Aug 21, 2013 at 6:04 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 I don't know about any reds, browns, or violets, but I'll try to procure a
 case of Maryland's home brewed finest, Raging Bitch!

 S



 On Tuesday, August 20, 2013 5:01:45 PM UTC-4, jvragu47 wrote:

 To Mr. Funk and Miss Claire,

 As the hosts, we resolve, heh-heh,

  1. To provide the enough ale to fill said
 gullet/liver capacity and
  2. Further resolve, that's a double heh-heh, to not
 accept one farthing from our international hosts towards said provision.
 Any monies would be graciously accepted via a friendly round of poker on
 that Saturday evening.

 Please let us know of style of ale preferred. We have
 many to choose from, IPA's, browns, reds etc.

 Johann

 On Monday, August 19, 2013 7:07:26 AM UTC-4, Neil Rochford wrote:

 The Funky Continuum would be delighted to be given the honer of
 providing the `Ale` for the party. myself and Miss Claire`s `gullet/liver`
 capacity is high, so I think its only right that we contribute accordingly..
 The number of attendees is not applicable to me as I`ll just fill the
 hire car to capacity.

 Neil `do you have resolve in the US` R


 On 18 August 2013 15:10, John Pittelli jpl...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Herr Generaloberst,

   The quartermaster needs to know how many sides of beef,
 suckling pigs,ears of corn , casks of ale and tins of Spam to order for the
 fall battle. Which is being held the last Saturday and Sunday of September
 in the year 2013.  The number of attendees and their respective stomach
 capacities would greatly assist in our procurement of the proper mass
 quantities of the above listed tasty vittles.

 Chef Johann Iron Duke Emeril Ramsay

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Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Forgot to mention, they can be loosened and tightened as many times as you
need to.  If the sprocket is not where you want it you simply loosen the
bushing, slide the sprocket/bushing where you want it, and tighten it back
down.  I've never had mine slip being used to hold my drive sprockets in
place and those carbon steel tracks are heavy as hell (like 20lbs each).

Derek


On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 9:25 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 Isaac,

 When I had a set of EV Warrior motors, I bought some Fenner Trantorque
 keyless bushings to mount my drive sprockets to the 8mm shaft.  The 5/16
 version actually is well within tolerance for use with an 8mm shaft.  The
 keyless bushings don't mar the shaft at all or require any thing going
 through the shaft.  I found mine on Ebay for like $5/per bushing, but they
 are normally like $20/per if bought at retail price.  I do have some left
 over that are still in the factory packaging if you want to give them a
 shot.  I'd let them go for what I paid plus shipping.

 The issue of using the 8mm bushing from Fenner as opposed the the 5/16
 bushing is that you would then need metric sprockets which are hard to find
 to fit over the 8mm keyless bushing.  The keyless bushings cinch down on
 the shaft while pushing out on the sprocket mounted over them.  No keyway
 or set screws are used.  Using the standard 5/16 size on the 8mm shaft
 means that normal standard bore sprockets can be used (in this case 3/4).
  I got lucky and found some small 3/4 bore sprockets (like 10 tooth and no
 hub) in standard 35 pitch that fit right over them.  I sold the motors,
 connector pigtails, EV mounts, sprockets, a set of bushings, and the
 sprockets to someone here on the list a while back because I didn't want to
 deal with creating a reduction for them.  Here's what the keyless bushings
 look like:

 http://www.fennerdrives.com/trantorque/?s=ZnwyMzE4

 I use them for my drive sprockets to mount the 60 pitch sprockets to my
 5/8 main drive shafts.  You can see the gold colored keyless bushings on
 the rear drive axles (of course those are much larger than the ones I used
 on my EV Warrior motors):




 On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:02 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 Thanks for the advice; I really appreciate that you took the time to type
 all that up.

 Much of it confirms what i already thought or had read on-line, or that i
 already learned the hard way in various other robotics competitions. Good
 to know im on the right track.


 On Sat, Aug 10, 2013 at 8:47 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 As the first and only current operator of a 24v EVW drive system in the
 hobby, I say welcome to the family but be warned!  EVW's at 24 volts are
 special beasts that will require a resolute nature and unfailing faith in
 your technical prowess to tame!

 Steve Tyng


 Advice in no particular order:

- These motors are timed CW or CCW.  Have a matched set or re-time
as required: http://redneckrobots.com/ev/mod.htm
- Remove the internal case grounding and add suppression caps:
http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/debil.jpg
http://www.robot-village.net/images/vi/build/dremeltab.jpg
- Review the T040 Cromwell build log:
http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/index.cgi
- If you can get them, use the OEM harnesses to wire to your
controller.
- Use the same gauge as the OEM for battery to controller.
- Build STRONG motor mounts
- Build a STRONGER transmission
- You will need a PWM controller.  Don't even think of using the old
style on/off TriPact controllers
- A single 80A fuse before the controller has worked well for me
going on 8 years
- Motor shafts are 8mm, buy an 8mm bit to bore your motor sprockets.
 Use a lathe for boring if you can
- You will need effective air flow over the motors for cooling
- A 9:1 reduction will get you over 8MPH but limited run time on a
set of 18AH SLA's.
- A 11:1 reduction gets you 6 to 7MPH with an hours run time on
fresh SLA's
- Using only setscrews on a round (or slightly flattened shaft) will
fail.  Keyed shafts, cross pins, etc. highly recommended in your
drive-train design
- At workable reductions, these motors will shred your drive-train
before they stall

 Good luck!







 On Thursday, August 8, 2013 7:50:57 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:

 Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage
 of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors
 though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 
 volts.

 Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the
 datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many
 Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do
 the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?

 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote

Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors

[Derek ENGELHAUPT]

And the point is if your fuses are set to 50A and your fuses do their job then 
the wire doesn't become your fuse. :)

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2013, at 2:19 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 ^^Thats what i had figured. I calculated 8 AWG as the best choice, but wanted 
 to confirm with what other people are using
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 3:06 PM, Michael Butts buttsakau...@gmail.com wrote:
 Being that they could stall and draw 100A each. I would overkill a smidge 
 with 8awg or 10awg silicone jacketed high strand count wire. You could get 
 by with 12awg though I bet.
 Mike B
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 7:16 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 I did the calculations myself, but im curious what gauge you guys use...
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:00 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 Now for a much stupider question, but what wire gauge should I be using in 
 the run from the batteries to the speed controller to the motors? 
 
 
 On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 12:39 AM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would 
 stall.  My tracks are steel so they would slip some.
 
 
 On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like 
 they still have the connectors in stock:
 
 http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html
 
 Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them.  The fuses 
 you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you 
 use.  Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors.  I think 
 I'm using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller.  Stall current would be if 
 you decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and 
 keep pushing the motors full throttle.  At that point they would stall 
 and be pulling upwards of 100A.  At 50A my fuses would blow and protect 
 my motors and my controllers.
 
 Derek
 
 
 On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries 
 panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:
 Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage 
 of mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV 
 motors though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them 
 off 24 volts.
 
 Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the 
 datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how 
 many Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring 
 harness or do the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?  
 
 
 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:
 Hi all,
 
 I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been 
 doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a 
 moment to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really 
 grateful to not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.
 
 Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem 
 to have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a 
 fair bit of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have 
 no idea how many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 
 350 watt 24 volt scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know 
 what you guys think, seeing as some of you have far more experience. 
 Is 350 watts per track enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and 
 i should look for at least 500-600 watts?
 
 
 Thanks in advance,
 
 Isaac
 
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 5142334423
 
 This message contains confidential information and is intended only for 
 the individual named. If you are not the named addressee you should not 
 disseminate, distribute or copy this e-mail. 
 
 
 
 -- 
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 5142334423

Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like
they still have the connectors in stock:

http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html

Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them.  The fuses you
would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use.
 Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors.  I think I'm
using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller.  Stall current would be if you
decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep
pushing the motors full throttle.  At that point they would stall and be
pulling upwards of 100A.  At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors
and my controllers.

Derek


On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries 
panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of
 mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors
 though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts.

 Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the
 datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many
 Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do
 the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?


 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:

 Hi all,

 I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been
 doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment
 to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to
 not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.

 Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to
 have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit
 of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea how
 many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt
 scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think,
 seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
 enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least
 500-600 watts?


 Thanks in advance,

 Isaac

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Re: [TANKS] Re: New tank; need advice on motors

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Of course that's if your tracks didn't slip at all your motors would stall.
 My tracks are steel so they would slip some.


On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 11:37 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have seen people use standard clips, but Robot Market Place looks like
 they still have the connectors in stock:

 http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/0-EVCABLE.html

 Most people were using (2) 12V 18AH batteries to power them.  The fuses
 you would need on them would really depend on the speed controller you use.
  Personally I have blown 30A fuses with my scooter motors.  I think I'm
 using a 50A fuse with a 60A controller.  Stall current would be if you
 decided to do something like...running your tank into a wall and keep
 pushing the motors full throttle.  At that point they would stall and be
 pulling upwards of 100A.  At 50A my fuses would blow and protect my motors
 and my controllers.

 Derek


 On Thu, Aug 8, 2013 at 6:50 PM, True North Armouries 
 panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 Update; I just received a set of EV motors, and am almost at the stage of
 mounting them in the tank. I have a few questions concerning EV motors
 though for people who know about them. Im planning to run them off 24 volts.

 Id like to know what rating on the fuse and relays people use, as the
 datasheet claims a stall current of over 100 amps. Id like to know how many
 Ah the batteries should be. Lastly, do i need the ev wiring harness or do
 the tabs accept standard sized crimp connectors?


 On Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM UTC-4, True North Armouries wrote:

 Hi all,

 I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been
 doing research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment
 to thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to
 not have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.

 Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to
 have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit
 of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea how
 many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt
 scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think,
 seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
 enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least
 500-600 watts?


 Thanks in advance,

 Isaac

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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Business

[Derek Engelhaupt]

Looks like a runnereverything seems to work well.


On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 4:21 PM, l...@fieldofarmortanks.com 
l...@fieldofarmortanks.com wrote:

 Latest update from Field of Armor Tanks:

 We mounted our latest generation Suspension system to the ABS Static and
 detailed Tiger I. This is our quick video of these five tests!

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embeddedv=uXyqYxMlUvg#at=10

 The elevate system is almost ready to test! Ready to fire, gentlemen...

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Derek ENGELHAUPT]

Nope.  Closest to getting an IS-7, but its a long way off.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 19, 2013, at 1:30 PM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com wrote:

 I loved the is once i got the top gun turret and engine. For t44 get the wet 
 ammo rack. Your gonna need it. And never use the repair kit unless its on the 
 ammo rack.
 
 Engel got any tier tens?
 
 On 2013-07-19 2:05 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 The IS is a great tank for it's tier, but only once it's fully upgraded.
 
 
 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Buck Cronk buckcr...@gmail.com wrote:
 My highest tier is 7. I have a T-43, and hopefully will soon have the IS. I 
 really don't like the T-43, since it seems like a T-34-85 (Which I've 
 already played a ton) but way worse. I'm really looking forward to the T-54 
 and T-62a! I don't know much about that T-44, but I'm really glad to hear 
 that it has the potential to be a favorite.
 
 
 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.com wrote:
 I have like 20 tanks in my stable.  I'm heading up the Soviet medium tree 
 now.  Only one tier 9 in my stable and that's the IS-8.  I have enough 
 experience to get the AMX tier 9, but not the cash.  I've taken a break 
 now that my premium account has expired.  Running the Centurion I and the 
 Pershing are expensive.  Without premium I lose money on them even when I 
 win...  I've also sold all of my artillery since they are no fun to play 
 anymore.
 
 
 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 10:17 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.com 
 wrote:
 I hated the T44 with a passion. T54 and 62a are both great tanks though
 
 
 
 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 11:08 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:
 Pete wrote:
 
 I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These guys 
 are obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)
 
 As Pete's a historical type I can understand his statement.  When I'd 
 see these types of comments in the game, my first response was always, 
 WOT is a game, not a history lesson!
 
 
 Steve Fun First, Facts Second Tyng
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:
 
 I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just wanted 
 to let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially not my 
 passion for tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.
 
 First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been for 
 months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post 
 pictures when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's 
 still a work in progress!
 
 Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I know 
 Steve Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely 
 worth a Google search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your 
 username, please! Mine is Spitfire155.
 
 I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng and 
 the others again for their input when I was building it. :)
 
 Glad to see this hobby still going!
 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I have like 20 tanks in my stable.  I'm heading up the Soviet medium tree
now.  Only one tier 9 in my stable and that's the IS-8.  I have enough
experience to get the AMX tier 9, but not the cash.  I've taken a break now
that my premium account has expired.  Running the Centurion I and the
Pershing are expensive.  Without premium I lose money on them even when I
win...  I've also sold all of my artillery since they are no fun to play
anymore.


On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 10:17 AM, isaac goldman panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 I hated the T44 with a passion. T54 and 62a are both great tanks though



 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 11:08 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Pete wrote:

 I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These guys are
 obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)

 As Pete's a historical type I can understand his statement.  When I'd see
 these types of comments in the game, my first response was always, WOT is a
 game, not a history lesson!


 Steve Fun First, Facts Second Tyng







 On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:

 I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just wanted
 to let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially not my passion
 for tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.

 First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been for
 months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post pictures
 when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's still a work in
 progress!

 Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I know
 Steve Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely worth a
 Google search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your username, please!
 Mine is Spitfire155.

 I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng and
 the others again for their input when I was building it. :)

 Glad to see this hobby still going!

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 5142334423

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Hey guys!

[Derek Engelhaupt]

The IS is a great tank for it's tier, but only once it's fully upgraded.


On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:59 PM, Buck Cronk buckcr...@gmail.com wrote:

 My highest tier is 7. I have a T-43, and hopefully will soon have the IS.
 I really don't like the T-43, since it seems like a T-34-85 (Which I've
 already played a ton) but way worse. I'm really looking forward to the T-54
 and T-62a! I don't know much about that T-44, but I'm really glad to hear
 that it has the potential to be a favorite.


 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 12:12 PM, Derek Engelhaupt tan...@gmail.comwrote:

 I have like 20 tanks in my stable.  I'm heading up the Soviet medium tree
 now.  Only one tier 9 in my stable and that's the IS-8.  I have enough
 experience to get the AMX tier 9, but not the cash.  I've taken a break now
 that my premium account has expired.  Running the Centurion I and the
 Pershing are expensive.  Without premium I lose money on them even when I
 win...  I've also sold all of my artillery since they are no fun to play
 anymore.


 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 10:17 AM, isaac goldman 
 panthergol...@gmail.comwrote:

 I hated the T44 with a passion. T54 and 62a are both great tanks though



 On Fri, Jul 19, 2013 at 11:08 AM, TyngTech steve...@gmail.com wrote:

 Pete wrote:

 I looked at WOT and thought, A pom-pom on a Cruiser MkII? These guys
 are obvious idiots! and never looked at it again . . . :-)

 As Pete's a historical type I can understand his statement.  When I'd
 see these types of comments in the game, my first response was always, WOT
 is a game, not a history lesson!


 Steve Fun First, Facts Second Tyng







 On Thursday, 18 July 2013 01:06:47 UTC+1, Buck Cronk wrote:

 I haven't even looked at this forum in the longest time! I just
 wanted to let you know I haven't abandoned my tank, and especially not my
 passion for tanks. I also wanted to ask a few questions.

 First of all, my tank. It's still under construction. It has been for
 months and months. It will be for months and months. I'll post pictures
 when and if I get to the rolling chassis phase. But it's still a work 
 in
 progress!

 Now for those questions. Do any of you play World of Tanks? I know
 Steve Tyng did/does. (If you haven't heard of it, it's definitely worth a
 Google search.) If so, I'd love it if you'd leave your username, please!
 Mine is Spitfire155.

 I play tanks on my new computer, and I'd like to thank Steve Tyng and
 the others again for their input when I was building it. :)

 Glad to see this hobby still going!

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 5142334423

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Re: [TANKS] New tank; need advice on motors

[Derek Engelhaupt]

I use the 450W version of what Doug is talking about and there is no
shortage of power.  There is a shortage of batteries at my place right now
to run it...

http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route=product/productpath=52_55product_id=57


On Sun, Jul 7, 2013 at 8:32 PM, dwconn...@comcast.net wrote:

 Many of us use M01 motors, which are 350 watt geared scooter motors. They
 provide plenty of power. There are 250 watt versions of those motors that
 I'll probably try if hull space is short or I use up the 350s I have in the
 shop.



- Doug

  --

 *From: *True North Armouries panthergol...@gmail.com
 *To: *rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
 *Sent: *Sunday, July 7, 2013 8:46:19 PM
 *Subject: *[TANKS] New tank; need advice on motors

 Hi all,

 I started working on my t34-85 this past Canada Day, though ive been doing
 research and electronics work since Easter. I'd like to take a moment to
 thank Steve for the T34 plans; for my first tank im really grateful to not
 have to scale any drawings before I can start sawing.

 Ive been looking at motors, and I need some advice; most of you seem to
 have EV motors, which are increasingly hard to find. I have done a fair bit
 of looking on-line, and  have come to the conclusion I have no idea how
 many watts my motors should be. I found someone selling 350 watt 24 volt
 scooter motors for a good price, but I wanted to know what you guys think,
 seeing as some of you have far more experience. Is 350 watts per track
 enough power, or is it going to be sluggish and i should look for at least
 500-600 watts?


 Thanks in advance,

 Isaac

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Re: [TANKS] Re: New Business

[Derek Engelhaupt]

RE:  Item f.  This one worries me since I use similar motors and my mounts
are 1/2 PVC sheets, but I have an inlet and an outlet (2 on each motor so
4 total) muffin fan to air moving around the motors.  Sounds like your
making good progress though.

Derek


On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 4:45 PM, l...@fieldofarmortanks.com 
l...@fieldofarmortanks.com wrote:

 1.   I tested the Tiger tank in a rough field next to our business. I
 ran the tank at full speed at all times:

 a.   Continuous speed of 6.4 mph for 39 minutes

 b.  Battery was not fully recharged when I started, because I used
 the tank to visitors a couple of times, including running in the field.
 After the 39 min, 45% left on battery according to my charger

 c.   At the end of the 39 minutes, the Tiger was going at about 5.4
 mph

 d.  The tank ran for exactly 4 miles

 e.  The Talon SR were hot, the right one was slightly hotter to the
 touch, but not burning

 f.The two MY1018 Motors were VERY hot. Could not put my fingers
 on it. It did not burn the plastic wires touching the motors.

 g.   No apparent mechanical failures: a road wheel shaft is lose in
 the middle of the wheels, the right sprocket jumped again the inner guide
 tooth, but the tank ran fine in this configuration

 h.   Turret rotation worked great throughout the experiment. Steve is
 designing another version of this rotation, with finer tuning for better
 paintball accuracy.

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