Re: [TANKS] Motor Question

[Don Shankin]

It sounds like you've given it some thought.  The torque limiters are nice,
but keeping it under 100A still seems like it would be a challenge.  Don't
forget those fuses! lol :)

-Don


On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 1:52 PM, Aaron Stern  wrote:

> Thanks for responding so fast.  I'm glad to hear the winch motors are
> likely to be abke to hold up over many minutes of use, if I kill of my
> ampflows I might try a winch motor connected to the same gearbox.
>
> The ampflow motor is rate at 235 amps at stall.  I dont plan to go past
> 100 amps though as any thing past 118 amps is going down the hp slope
> anyway.  I will include standard fuses, mechanical torque limiters, and
> electronic current sensors, and six temp sensors (on the four high side
> mosfets, and on the motors themselves) to avoid running over 75 amps for
> more than short periods and to prevent ever crossing 100 amps even
> temporarily.
>
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Re: [TANKS] Motor Question

[Don Shankin]

I'm assuming that "max" means 100A @ stall.  I personally would be _very_
uncomfortable w/ an H-bridge that is rated at only 10% over the stall
current.

Re: the winch motors:
I would think that they'd be able to run fine for our applications.
 They're pulling a very large load, sometimes up an incline.  I've never
winched a vehicle, but I would assume that it's a relatively slow process,
so I would think that they could run for a decent duration, especially w/
such a (relatively) small load.  My concern would be what type of rpm you'd
get from one.

-Don


On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 12:23 PM, Aaron Stern  wrote:

> Hello again,
>
> I just wanted to pop in quickly to ask about some specific motors that I
> found to see if anyone has tried them before.  AmpFlow sells some very
> powerful high performance motors with attached gearboxes.  The E30-400-G is
> the model I have ordered (out of stock, a few more weeks of waiting to go).
>  The specs show that it is a max hp of 2.1 at a little over 100 amps.  I
> hope not to run at that high a torque but it would be nice to know that it
> is available if needed.  Ive built my own Hbridge circuit and it SHOULD be
> ok up to 110 amps but I dont want to push my luck.
>
> On a related note has anyone tried winch motors before?  You can find a
> 3.2 hp 24V winch motor for $100 very easily.  My only concern would be the
> windings overheating from extended periods of operation and shorting
> themselves.
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Aaron Stern
>
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Re: [TANKS] FIRST RUN M4A1 GRIZZLY

[Don Shankin]

Yeah, that happened to me too.  It's like there's something wrong with the
slideshow.  For me, I could click the "x" in the corner of the blank screen
and it took me to the correct spot.
-Don


On Mon, Jun 30, 2014 at 12:19 PM, OdysseySlipways via R/C Tank Combat <
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> wrote:

>  i copy and paste the link, i clicked onto the link and i just get a
> empty google screen
>
>  In a message dated 6/29/2014 8:45:19 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rcrobertcur...@gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi
>   first run on the basement floor  and a mould started to start upper hull
> Cheers all
> Rob Currie
>
>
> https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/106203879014407575192/albums/5845962065267787537/6030501239971896194?pid=6030501239971896194&oid=10620387901440
>
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Re: [TANKS] List of Future Events?

[Don Shankin]

Welcome aboard!
On Jun 23, 2014 8:12 AM, "Aaron Stern"  wrote:

> Hello everyone,
>
> I'm new to this hobby and have just finished (and retired) my first tank
> to begin work on version 2 which should be easier than solving my design
> issues with version 1.
>
> I am located in Gainesville Georgia and was wondering where and when
> events are generally held.  Is there a list available somewhere?
>
> Thanks,
> Aaron Stern
>
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Re: [TANKS] Spring rates

[Don Shankin]

Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for.  I figured there'd be a
difference between the "that looks cool" and "that works well" spring
rates.  I didn't think it'd be a factor of two though.  Has anyone pushed
their springs past the event horizon?


On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 3:16 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Franks's formula pretty much works out about right for the KV-2 I have.
>  12 axles at about 120-140lbs completed weight, and I'm using 30lb.
> springs.  Mine would be on the stiff side of his calculations.  I'm also
> using "die springs" which don't seem to compress that much in a static
> state, but seem to work really well at absorbing shock.
>
> Derek
>
>
> On Wed, Jun 11, 2014 at 2:03 PM, Frank Pittelli 
> wrote:
>
>> Here are my rules of thumb, based on experience with suspensions in the
>> SU-100 (tension springs), Semovente (leaf springs) and Patton (torsion
>> springs).
>>
>> 1) Estimate (or measure) the battle weight of your tank (W).  Multiply by
>> two (2) and divide by the number of road-wheel axles (A) to determine the
>> "minimum" weight per axles (WPA(min) = 2 * W / A)
>>
>> 2) The minimum weight per axle, WPA(min), is a good starting point. Each
>> suspension will be at 50% of travel when sitting still and will be able to
>> move 50% more under dynamic loads. The WPA(min) is a nice looking
>> suspension for video purpose, easily riding up and down when going over
>> objects.  Great for that "that's neat" suspension video, but not as good
>> for real battle-field situations, like flying over a large tree root at
>> full speed.
>>
>> 3) For a little stiffer suspension, multiply by 4 to yield WPA(stiff) = 4
>> * W / A.  In that case, each suspension will be about 25% depressed when
>> the tank is sitting still and will be able to travel 3 times further under
>> dynamic loads.  The video doesn't look as nice, but the suspension will
>> take more abuse and there is less chance of deforming the suspension
>> springs (be they compression, tension, leaf or torsion) during a real
>> battle.
>>
>> The SU-100 has been using a WPA(min) suspension for many, many years and
>> it's still working well.  But, keep in mind that the SU-100 has
>> historically been the slowest tank on the battlefield, so it wasn't flying
>> over tree roots and having to land hard.  It also has mechanical limits to
>> absorb the really big shocks without damaging the springs.
>>
>> The Semovente and Patton both started out using WPA(min) suspensions, but
>> both have been increased to WPA(stiff) suspensions after initial field
>> tests.  Because they rely on leaf and torsion springs without mechanical
>> stops the stiffer springs are needed to prevent deformation of the springs
>> during heavy load events.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 6/11/2014 2:36 PM, Don Shankin wrote:
>>
>>> I'm curious about what I should expect to be using for springs for my
>>> suspension.  Are you all balancing the overall effective spring force to
>>> the weight of your tank?  This seems like something that is just
>>> discovered through trial and error, but I'd be interested in what you
>>> find works best.
>>>
>>
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[TANKS] Spring rates

[Don Shankin]

Hi guys,

I'm curious about what I should expect to be using for springs for my
suspension.  Are you all balancing the overall effective spring force to
the weight of your tank?  This seems like something that is just discovered
through trial and error, but I'd be interested in what you find works best.

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Re: [TANKS] Attachment chain (once again)

[Don Shankin]

Thanks!


On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:32 PM, 'jvragu47' via R/C Tank Combat <
rctankcombat@googlegroups.com> wrote:

> My brother Paul might still have the attachment chain from the KV1  . I'll
> ask for you.
>
> John P.
>
>
> On Friday, June 6, 2014 9:20:06 AM UTC-4, Don Shankin wrote:
>
>> Yeah, I looked at McMaster.  I was hoping that there would be something
>> cheaper...  Maybe somewhere between the $2/foot that Will sold it at years
>> ago, and the $4.43 PER LINK that mcmaster sells them for now.
>>
>> -Don
>>
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:58 AM, isaac goldman 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Mcmaster-carr has great stuff including the chain you want, but you have
>>> to play the shipping price lottery if you want to order from them...
>>>
>>> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>>>
>>>
>>> On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:24 AM, d0n  wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi all:
>>>>
>>>> I joined this group a while back.  I don't remember if I've ever posted
>>>> before.  I think I finally have some spare time to devote to building a
>>>> tank
>>>> I'd like to go with an attachment chain track system.  I've done a lot
>>>> of searching, and I haven't seen anything recent (as in the last few years)
>>>> regarding sources for 2060 attachment chain.  Apologies if I've missed any
>>>> recent threads.
>>>>
>>>> -Don
>>>>
>>>> --
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> --
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>>> 5142334423
>>>
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>>
>>
>>
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>>
>> Donald Shankin
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Attachment chain (once again)

[Don Shankin]

Yeah, I looked at McMaster.  I was hoping that there would be something
cheaper...  Maybe somewhere between the $2/foot that Will sold it at years
ago, and the $4.43 PER LINK that mcmaster sells them for now.

-Don


On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 7:58 AM, isaac goldman 
wrote:

> Mcmaster-carr has great stuff including the chain you want, but you have
> to play the shipping price lottery if you want to order from them...
>
> http://www.mcmaster.com/
>
>
> On Fri, Jun 6, 2014 at 12:24 AM, d0n  wrote:
>
>> Hi all:
>>
>> I joined this group a while back.  I don't remember if I've ever posted
>> before.  I think I finally have some spare time to devote to building a
>> tank
>> I'd like to go with an attachment chain track system.  I've done a lot of
>> searching, and I haven't seen anything recent (as in the last few years)
>> regarding sources for 2060 attachment chain.  Apologies if I've missed any
>> recent threads.
>>
>> -Don
>>
>> --
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Re: [TANKS] Re: RC armored car steering setup?

[Don Shankin]

I'm in Rochester, Minnesota.

On Sun, May 22, 2011 at 8:46 PM, mike  wrote:

> ah ok, Is the minimum lenghth really 3 feet?
>
>  And is there anylocated in minnisota?
>
> On May 22, 6:37 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 5/22/2011 9:36:00 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> >
> > dirtbiker4...@gmail.com writes:
> >
> > ah, i  just thought cause I saw some with the state's as
> > underconstruction but  never mind then, can I post a pic or something
> > if I have a  question?
> >
> > they use to do that before, but stopped.
> >
> > you can always put pictures in your emails, but if they are large files,
>
> > try to keep them to one or two per email (for those using dial-up)
> >
> > Chris,
> > _Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: batteries

[Don Shankin]

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 1:36 PM, Cobra9431  wrote:

> Having seperate battery banks for each motor would be a bad idea. One
> set is bound to drain before the other. One motor may be run more than
> the other due to turning habits, track tension differences, or other
> issues. Not to mention batteries may charge inconsistantly giving one
> side a lower initial charge than the other. All these factors may lead
> to one motor running out of juice before the other, leaving your tank
> running in circles. You can get consistancy for both motors by running
> off one bank of batteries. As far as frying your Tri-pact gear, I
> don't know.
>
> Aaron F
> SCAB
>
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I entirely missed the part about using a bank for each motor.  I assumed
that he would be using two "24V effective" packs in parallel for added
capacity.  Not sure how I didn't see that, but I agree that this is not the
best setup

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Re: [TANKS] Re: ESC - Cheap as Chips?

[Don Shankin]

Steve is right; the minimum switching time for FETs is determined by the
capacitive load on the gate, so you want to minimize that whenever
possible.  Long wires (or, wires in general) aren't ideal for this, but if
you use them, they should be of the same length.  What frequency does the
pwm controller switch at?

Aside from that, make sure you use appropriate heatsinks (I do see that you
mentioned it, but I cringed a little bit when I saw these FETs mounted to
wood).  You won't even begin to approach the rated current handling without
removing all that heat (The "on resistance" (RDSon) for the FET will
increase with the temperature, so they must be kept cool).

Aside from that, it looks like a solid setup if direction is not a factor.
Teh FETs you chose have a nice low RDSon value, so I'd say they were a good
choice

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Re: [TANKS] Patent!

[Don Shankin]

On Wed, Aug 11, 2010 at 12:35 PM, Steve Tyng  wrote:

> Check this out:
>
> http://www.freepatentsonline.com/7699683.pdf
>
> Just this year someone was awarded a patent for something we've been
> building for the past decade!
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
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Someone failed on their prior art search :-(

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Re: [TANKS] batteries

[Don Shankin]

On Tue, Aug 10, 2010 at 9:44 AM, ryan wells  wrote:

>  My plan is to buy 8 6v 12ah batteries and run two series of four. one set
> for each motor. I need to know if this will fry the tri-pact electronics or
> not just to be safe.
>
> Ryan P.
>
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That sounds like it should give a run time that's in line with what most
people are running.  What pushed the decision to go with 8 6v batteries?
Are they cheaper?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Legality

[Don Shankin]

This reminds me of the guy who built a robotic sentry gun (wasn't mounted on
a tank, but he used an air-soft replica of an FN p90).  It was webcam
controlled and fully autonomous -- complete with target tracking.  What was
cool about it, was since he used a 1:1 scale replica of a real weapon, the
real gun could be "dropped in" to the setup at any time, yet it was still
legal.  The last I heard, this kid was hired by the Department of Defense
and is (I assume) developing similar things for them.

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Re: [TANKS] Battery information

[Don Shankin]

On Mon, Aug 9, 2010 at 11:24 AM, ryan wells  wrote:

>  Since Watts=volts*amps350=24*14.58333
>350=12*29.1
> So I would get a longer run time using two twelve volt batteries in
> parallel? As long as my motors dont draw more than 30 amps my tri-pact speed
> controller will not burn out?
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
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The run time is dependent on the amp-hour rating of single battery vs the
combined amp-hour rating of the two in parallel.  Also, are your motors 12
or 24V?  This will determine how you should decide on your batteries.
Finally, the above equations are using amps, which is a measure of current
flow, but your run time is determined by the amp-hour rating of a battery.
These are two different concepts, so what you're asking by referencing the
equations like that is incorrect, if I'm understanding you correctly.

I'm not familiar with the current handling capability of the tri-pact speed
controller so I can't answer that

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Which Buy is Better?

[Don Shankin]

Watts = Amps * Volts, so they're all related; knowing any two of these specs
implies the third.

For instance, my motors are nominally rated for 350W @ 24V.  This means that
they will nominally be drawing somewhere around 14.5 Amps.

Also, be careful when treating an amp-hour rating of a battery strictly as a
capacity, as this is somewhat dependent on the discharge rate.  (the actual,
real-world amount of run time you will get from a battery will be less than
the amp-hour rating suggests when you discharge them at a higher rate)

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Re: [TANKS] Which Buy is Better?

[Don Shankin]

That doesn't sound correct... I'm not familiar with the "tri pact"
electronics, but think of the AH rating of the battery as the capacity.  It
won't affect the electronics to have a higher AH rating.  You may be mixing
up your terms.

On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 2:29 PM, ryan wells  wrote:

>  Thanks for the information. I would have to reduce the ah down to under
> 30amps for the tri pact diode system.
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
>
> --
> Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2010 13:19:20 -0500
> Subject: Re: [TANKS] Which Buy is Better?
> From: dshan...@gmail.com
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>
>
> We can't answer because you haven't specified how they will be wired.  Four
> 6v batteries can imply a 24v system, or a 12v system with two sets of two 6v
> batteries.  I'm going to assume you're talking about a 12v system (because
> of your second option), and will then assume that option 3 implies two 12v
> batteries wired in parallel.  In that case, option 3 will provide the most
> run time (with 36 effective amp-hours) (I'm also assuming you mean
> "amp-hours" when you say "amp").  Option 2 comes in second, and Option 1
> will give you the shortest run time with 24 effective amp-hours (this is
> ignoring factors such as how different setups will be affected by the
> discharge rate being spread over multiple batteries, which could work to
> even the playing field between options 1 and 2.  I still think that for a
> 12v setup, Option 3 wins
>
> On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 1:06 PM, ryan wells  wrote:
>
> Which arrangement will have longer run life for two motors?
> Four 6v 12amp batteries.
> One 12v 28amp battery.
> Two 12v 18amp batteries.
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
>
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>
>

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Re: [TANKS] Which Buy is Better?

[Don Shankin]

We can't answer because you haven't specified how they will be wired.  Four
6v batteries can imply a 24v system, or a 12v system with two sets of two 6v
batteries.  I'm going to assume you're talking about a 12v system (because
of your second option), and will then assume that option 3 implies two 12v
batteries wired in parallel.  In that case, option 3 will provide the most
run time (with 36 effective amp-hours) (I'm also assuming you mean
"amp-hours" when you say "amp").  Option 2 comes in second, and Option 1
will give you the shortest run time with 24 effective amp-hours (this is
ignoring factors such as how different setups will be affected by the
discharge rate being spread over multiple batteries, which could work to
even the playing field between options 1 and 2.  I still think that for a
12v setup, Option 3 wins

On Fri, Aug 6, 2010 at 1:06 PM, ryan wells  wrote:

>  Which arrangement will have longer run life for two motors?
> Four 6v 12amp batteries.
> One 12v 28amp battery.
> Two 12v 18amp batteries.
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
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-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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Re: [TANKS] Re: motor choice

[Don Shankin]

On Wed, Jun 23, 2010 at 1:44 AM, Peter Pišljar wrote:

> i already wrote this in my first post.
> i'm using a stepper, becouse this wont be rc controled tank, but robot
> tank. i need steppers becouse i need precise movement and movement tracking.
> as for controler, controling stepper is much easier than controling
> brushless motor, even easier than controling normal motor (if you want speed
> control)
> with stepper i control it for each 1.8° of its turn, and its realy simple
> (just like saying"next 1.8°, next 1.8°, ....)
>
>
>
>
> 2010/6/22 Don Shankin 
>
>> Any specific reason why you're looking at stepper motors?  There are more
>> suitable motors that will work for your tank (especially @ 1/12 scale) for
>> cheaper than these steppers (and they won't require special controllers)
>>
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>
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I'm sorry I missed that in your first post somehow (I even read it! (but not
at the same time as I sent the reply)).  I'm assuming you will be gearing
these down, because even though your stepper controller will allow you speed
control, having the option of 3000 rpm doesn't seem that practical.  So you
you be better served trading speed for torque.  In that case, these motors
should be suitable.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: motor choice

[Don Shankin]

Any specific reason why you're looking at stepper motors?  There are more
suitable motors that will work for your tank (especially @ 1/12 scale) for
cheaper than these steppers (and they won't require special controllers)

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Re: [TANKS] Re: fuses

[Don Shankin]

On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 7:18 AM, Phil  wrote:

> I would also like to know the answer to this one as I've just put
> fuses in my tank. Ryan's motors are 24V and 350W. Watts = amps x
> volts, so 350 divided by 24 tells us that Ryan's motors are pulling
> 14.6A at their nominal power. He could use a 15A fuse, but am I right
> in saying that 20A would be less likely to blow from minor
> fluctuations but would still protect in the event of a major problem?
>
> Can Ryan use 12V car fuses, or do you need 24V ones?
>
> Phil P
>
> On Jun 22, 12:38 am, ryan wells  wrote:
> > What type of fuses should i use for these motors?
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-1353/24VDC-350W-M...
> > Ryan P.
> >
> > _
> > The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
> Hotmail.
> http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid...
>
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Phil,

Your math and reasoning are correct, but instead of using the numbers for
nominal current draw, I would go for something between peak and stall.  Your
motors are going to consume a lot of power doing things like skid turns.  I
would select fuses with amperage ratings maybe 10% below stall (I just
pulled this number out of thin air, I'm sure more people will chime in)

For 12/24VDC, I can't think of any reason at the moment why the voltage
rating would be a primary concern.

Also, I would think that a slow blow fuse would be more appropriate

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Re: [TANKS] Re: The Mighty Killer-Roach aka M4A3E8

[Don Shankin]

Wow, these look almost _identical_ to something that I modeled in SolidWorks
a few weeks ago.  The only difference is that the brackets are oriented
differently (I like your approach better).  I'm extremely interested in
knowing how these work out (I haven't built mine yet), so please report back
as soon as you have something to report

Great minds think alike ;-)

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Re: [TANKS] Steel Beasts

[Don Shankin]

I closed the tab that the site opened in when i saw $125.00 (If that wasn't
for the game/sim, I apologize)

-Don

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Half Metal Tracks _ Pictures of the Prototype

[Don Shankin]

Where are you getting your aluminum?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Half Metal Tracks _ Pictures of the Prototype

[Don Shankin]

I thought that 1/8" pins seems a little small as well, but then I thought
about it, and in a completed track, whatever force is applied will be spread
across all of the pins.  Combine that with the shear strength of SS, AND the
fact that there are multiple points where a shearing force is going to be
applied to each pin (I count 3 per pin in this design), and I think it would
probably be OK

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Re: [TANKS] Half Metal Tracks _ Pictures of the Prototype

[Don Shankin]

Beautiful!  I'm a little confused:  Are you still going to use aluminum, or
does the pvc prototype perform well enough that you decided to switch?
Also, I'm assuming that the $0.80/inch was for the aluminum?

Do you anticipate running into any problems drilling 1/8" holes in the .25"
thick tread segments?  That's really what I'm worried about at the moment (I
have a drill press, but it's not the most expensive, and I don't have the
most experience with it)

Otherwise, this is almost exactly what I wanted to do

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Real Metal Track -- New Projrect

[Don Shankin]

Thanks for all the info guys.  It's much easier when you can turn to several
people with experience.

-Don

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Real Metal Track -- New Projrect

[Don Shankin]

On Fri, Jun 11, 2010 at 9:46 AM,  wrote:

>  or just do it all in metal - it'll cost more, but it'll last and last and
> last and last and last
>
> oh something else, if you are planing on resin, try to keep the tank on
> dirt more so than sand, black top, concrete, gravel as they will chew up and
> wear down the resin faster
>
> Chris,
> Odyssey Slipways 
>
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Thanks for all of the info Chris.  I'm not against casting them in resin,
but I too was worried about how long they would hold up.  My first choice
would be metal for realism, durability, and the "coolness factor", but
everywhere that I've looked online, the metal was so expensive that I think
the tracks would cost too much to build.  I have no idea how much resin a
set of tracks would requite, but if I'm looking at several hundred dollars
in resin, that starts to even the playing field with metal track :-/

If I do go the casting route, I'll be sure to bug you for help though!

-Don

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Re: [TANKS] pistol grip

[Don Shankin]

There does happen to be a small amount of room in the AR15 pistol grip.
It's hollow.  Not sure how much room you need, but it isn't much.

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Re: [TANKS] pistol grip

[Don Shankin]

Umm, I have a leftover pistol grip from an AR15 build, not sure if that
would suit your needs though.

This is the part:
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct/?productnumber=615714

You're welcome to it if you think it will be useful (assuming that I can
find it in the garage).

On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 10:02 AM, RocketMan  wrote:

> Hello -
>
> Does anybody have an unused pistol grip housing they can part with
> cheap ? I'm looking for a dead car R/C transmitter, a handle from a
> defunct paintball marker, or any other hardy pistol grip kind of thing
> that will fit adult hands comfortably. I don't care about the guts,
> just the housing.
>
> Please take a look through your junk bins and let me know.
>
>  Thanks a lot,
>  Doug
>
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Real Metal Track -- New Projrect

[Don Shankin]

On Thu, Jun 10, 2010 at 3:48 AM, Chris. b  wrote:

> Use a castable resin, stronger then wood and easier to make.
>
> Chris. b
>
>
I didn't realize that the smoothcast resins and the like were stronger than
wood.  Maybe I'll look into that.  How expensive are the resin components?

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Real Metal Track -- New Projrect

[Don Shankin]

...and now that I've just looked at how much it would cost to build them out
of metal, I think I'll stick to wood.  Unless you guys know of a good place
to get suitable metal frugally (i.e: NOT McMaster-Carr)

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Real Metal Track -- New Projrect

[Don Shankin]

I've modeled the tracks from the Abrams in solidworks, and I'm going to make
"real world" tracks as well, but I am trying to decide on whether I want to
use metal or wood (for the weight savings).  I agree, metal tracks would be
cool as hell though

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Re: [TANKS] Re: i thought there was a link....

[Don Shankin]

On Fri, May 28, 2010 at 10:27 AM, Frank Pittelli
wrote:

> Don Shankin wrote:
>
>> I would love to have a page for my M1A2-Abrams-In-Progress (in the pending
>> section, of course).  If the powers that be could create one for me, I would
>> sure appreciate it.
>>
>
> The powers that be rarely speak on such subjects (they are too busy
> traveling the world promoting the hobby), but I'll try to give an
> explanation for them.
>
> Back in the early days of the hobby, the www.rctankcombat.com website and
> the mailing list were the only communication media we had.  The powers that
> be tried to provide a way to showcase work done by everyone by creating the
> tank pages. Tanks were designated as soon as requested, even if only a
> design was in mind.  It was soon realized that most of the tanks weren't
> being built and the effort that went into making those pages was wasted.
>  Moreover, most newbies reading through the pages saw that most vehicles
> didn't actually exist, leading them to believe the hobby didn't exist.
>
> So, the powers that be created the "rolling chassis" requirement, knowing
> that anyone who got to that stage had a pretty good chance of finishing
> their vehicle.  Official designation was now a badge of achievement, not
> just another anonymous page amongst trillions of web pages.
>
> But, newbies continued to want an outlet for showing off their early work
> and the powers that be continued to want to support them, so they created
> the "Pending Designation" page to give them a lesser showcase.
> Unfortunately, after a few years it was noticed that no "pending" vehicle
> was ever completed.  Not wanting to jinx all newbies, the powers that be
> suspended the pending designation to encourage members to actually achieve
> "rolling chassis" status and reap all of the rewards and financial benefits
> that title provides.
>
> More importantly, over the years, many new outlets were created for anyone
> to use that provide the same capabilities (if not better) than the official
> website.  Three perfect examples are:
>
> 1) Using a Google Group thread to chronicle your work
>
> 2) Using any free blog service to chronicle your work
>
> 3) Create your own web page and join the R/C Tank Combat Network (web ring)
>
> For example, our most prolific Greek builder, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos,
> chronicled the construction of a Daimler in:
>
>
> http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/8c8b17c600051ca9
>
> It's a simple process, just post a message with a Subject of your choosing
> with a photo and whatever you want people to know.  Whenever you have
> another photo or more facts, simply return to that thread and reply with
> another message.  People can make comments along the way and you can not
> only distribute photos and information, but you can have a dialog with all
> your fans.  (As an aside, you'll notice at the bottom of that thread that he
> requested a "Pending Designation" and was granted the same, with the pending
> page referencing the Google Group thread. And, even though he's completed
> plenty of other vehicles, he never completed the Daimler ... jinxed?)
>
> In a more recent example, our most prolific Australian builder, Chris
> Barthelson (aka. Mr. TigerAce), created a *FREE* blogger site at:
>
>http://tankcombat.blogspot.com/
>
> which is just one of many high-quality and free blog services.  Chris posts
> photos and facts to the blog, then sends a reference message to the mailing
> list to tell people when he's added some interesting stuff.  In addition,
> anyone can "follow" Chris' blog directly, which means they'll get automatic
> updates in their own blog reader when Chris adds something.  Blog sites have
> the added benefit of letting you choose your own format schemes,
> backgrounds, etc.  When Chris reaches a rolling chassis status his official
> designation page will reference his blog and the circle will be complete.
>
> Finally, there are plenty of services that allow you to easily create your
> own web site if you prefer to have total control over everything displayed.
>  Once created, your website can be updated whenever you want and a message
> posted to the mailing list to let people know you've added content.
>  Moreover, your website can be added to the R/C Tank Combat Network web ring
> so that people will find it referenced from the main web site.  A good
> example is:
>
>http://www.gizmology.net/mkvstar.htm
>
> All of these approaches yield the desired result of showcasing a project,
> without any cost and without any unnecessary steps (p

Re: [TANKS] Re: i thought there was a link....

[Don Shankin]

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 11:38 PM,  wrote:

>   In a message dated 5/28/2010 12:08:49 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> saintofswitchbla...@tmail.com writes:
>
> Why not just "Under Construction" or "In Development"?
>
> if i saw a button listed as under construction, i would think of the
> message i would get from a sites page that hasn't been built yet. most
> people any more call it a WIP (work in progress)
>
> Chris,
> Odyssey Slipways 
>
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>

Either works for me; I just want a page lol

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Re: [TANKS] Re: i thought there was a link....

[Don Shankin]

On Thu, May 27, 2010 at 4:47 PM, neroc  wrote:

> I like the "wall of shame" idea , how about a "battled" section ?  a
> bit like a premiership.
>
> I have often thought that many builders see the point of this hobby as
> building perfectly to scale  tanks. I see nothing wrong with such a
> hobby but building is only half the fun.
>
> I also realise some rctc members just like to chat , without doing the
> battling or the building aspects of the hobby. For such member(s) I
> would like to have the ability to write a program code (and the
> clearance from the boss) that makes the words "Pointless idiot" appear
> just after the offenders name .this could be removed after sufficient
> photographic proof of building work had been accomplished .
> I would like to see exceptions for those members caught up in real war
> zone`s throughout the globe  80]
>
> I also realise that some members may wish to see the words "Pointless
> idiot" ( or worse ) after my name . However I think I would qualify to
> have the "pointless" removed at least.
>
> to those who have made the effort and worked hard to ready your tanks
> for the next battle , I say well done ,you are keeping the hobby
> strong, for those who dont I wonder why you bother typing .
>
> Neil "Stepping off my soap box now" R
>
>
> Way to be a douche.  You deserve a round of applause
>

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Re: [TANKS] Re: i thought there was a link....

[Don Shankin]

I would love to have a page for my M1A2-Abrams-In-Progress (in the pending
section, of course).  If the powers that be could create one for me, I would
sure appreciate it

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Re: [TANKS] wifi network

[Don Shankin]

On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 7:51 PM, ryan wells  wrote:

>  Could you use a long range wifi network and control the rc tanks with a
> computer. Or do you put the router inside the rc tank?
>
> Ryan P.
>
>
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This is somewhat commonplace with home built RC vehicles.  I had some
friends in college that would do this.  They put the router inside the
vehicle, but in this case they had access to the firmware on the router, and
wrote some custom applications that ran directly on the router.  Not the
easiest way to control an RC vehicle, and I personally don't thing the range
justifies all the work, but it's cool all the same

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Re: [TANKS] Re: i thought there was a link....

[Don Shankin]

Awww :-(  I was just going to ask for a pending page too

On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 10:47 AM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> The practice of putting vehicles on the "pending" page was outlawed by the
> powers that be because none of the pending vehicles ever got out of the
> pending status.  Kinda like jinxing them  :)
>
> Derek
> T065
> SV016
> KV-2 on hold
>
> On Tue, May 25, 2010 at 6:43 PM, Chris. b wrote:
>
>> that was a flat out guess!
>>
>> chris, b
>>
>> On May 25, 11:07 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
>> > In a message dated 5/25/2010 9:58:09 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> >
>> > barthelso...@hotmail.com writes:
>> >
>> > http://www.rctankcombat.com/pending/
>> >
>> > Chris.  b
>> >
>> > ya, that's it, but i don't see it on the main page any more
>> >
>> > Chris,
>> > _Odyssey  Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html
>> )
>> >
>> > --
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-Don

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Latest work

[Don Shankin]

I wish I had your skill!

-Don

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Re: [TANKS] Amphibious Vehicles?

[Don Shankin]

Sorry about being unclear; I'm not saying tracks make good flotation
devices.  All I meant to say was that if your tank should end up in water,
you'd be better off with tracks (or really any attached object) that are
positively buoyant, as opposed to tracks that are negatively buoyant.

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 3:13 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:

> My issue with using the tracks as flotation aids is that they are in
> the worst possible place to add bouyancy (or at least the bottom half
> of them is).  Realistically, beyond sealed bearings and some kind of
> waterproofing around the track tensioning mechanism and any suspension
> entry points, the best bouyancy would be foam-filled (or otherwise
> sealed) sponsons, and lightweight battery packs.
> In my 5 years of USMCR time before going active Navy, I was in light
> armored recon (LAV-25's and variants).  Land vehicles are not good
> seagoing vehicles because the distribution of bouyant areas is not
> what you would want for a boat :)  AAV-7s being a notable exception.
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 2:42 PM, Don Shankin  wrote:
> >
> >
> > On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 1:33 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:
> >>
> >> Best guess: make it lighter than the water it displaces.  8D
> >>
> >>  For most full-tracked vehicles, this will be really hard to achieve
> >> (sure, one could always buy sealed bearings and invest in a good pump
> >> to dewater the hull).  Weight of the turret would be a serious concern
> >> for topweight that affects stability.  I'd go with hinge tracks if
> >> only to get extra weight down low.
> >>
> >> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Weston  wrote:
> >> > Does anyone have an idea how to make a vehicle amphibious??
> >> >
> >> > --
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> Clark in Georgia
> >>
> >> --
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> >
> > I would think that a wooden track system (a la TTS) would be better than
> a
> > hinge track in this regard.  Even if it does weigh more overall, it will
> > still be more buoyant than a metal hinge track, and would aid in helping
> the
> > vehicle float
> >
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>
>
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Re: [TANKS] Amphibious Vehicles?

[Don Shankin]

On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 1:33 PM, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:

> Best guess: make it lighter than the water it displaces.  8D
>
>  For most full-tracked vehicles, this will be really hard to achieve
> (sure, one could always buy sealed bearings and invest in a good pump
> to dewater the hull).  Weight of the turret would be a serious concern
> for topweight that affects stability.  I'd go with hinge tracks if
> only to get extra weight down low.
>
> On Wed, May 19, 2010 at 2:19 PM, Weston  wrote:
> > Does anyone have an idea how to make a vehicle amphibious??
> >
> > --
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>
>
>
> --
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>
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I would think that a wooden track system (a la TTS) would be better than a
hinge track in this regard.  Even if it does weigh more overall, it will
still be more buoyant than a metal hinge track, and would aid in helping the
vehicle float

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[TANKS] Group for members in the midwest?

[Don Shankin]

Now that I'm starting to get back into building my tank again, I was
wondering if there was a group for us members in the midwest?  Most of the
groups seem to be somewhat geographically specific.  Looking at the group
listing on the website, I don't see anything that would apply to me.

I live in Minnesota

-Don "Just trying to fit in" Shankin

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[TANKS] Anyone have info about the Abrams track system?

[Don Shankin]

Guys,

Has anyone in their searches come across detailed information about the
tracks on the Abrams?  I'm specifically looking for dimensions and detailed
pictures of individual pieces.  I believe that I have a track system worked
out in my head which closely approximates the actual tracks on the real
thing (based on what little information I could find), but I would like to
decide on final sizes for pieces.  I know there are (at least) two
designated tracks for different Abrams versions: T156 and T158, and I would
appreciate details on either of these (or any others if they exist)

-Don

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Absolute genius

[Don Shankin]

Exactly, Frank.  I just made the assumption that he actually has done such
measurements, and they came out unfavorably, but he's hoping that some
automotive engineers can build an efficient working prototype based on his
_concept_.  He already has this thing hooked up to electric motors, there no
way he hasn't measured efficiency for this prototype yet.  He just didn't
give numbers because they don't jive with his claims.

On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 10:54 AM, Frank Pittelli
wrote:

> I love when inventors claim an "order of magnitude" increase in
> efficiency even before they've made any efficiency measurements.  If
> he's been working on the design for the last 20 years without taking
> measurements, exactly what has he been doing.  The efficiency of that
> design depends heavily on the load seen by the intermediate motor.
> Even with his mock-up of the system, a couple of amp meters connected
> to the motors would yield a pretty good estimate of the efficiency of
> the design. Maybe that's why they don't show any.
>
>  Frank P.
>
>
> On May 15, 8:19 pm, Ben Holko  wrote:
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6zE__J0YIU
> >
> > This thing may revolutionize all transmissions.
> >
> > --
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Just my "binary dime"

Don "still just a computer engineer" Shankin

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Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3

[Don Shankin]

... And they likely will not have the torque you're looking for to do fun
things like skid-pivot in six inch grass

On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 9:42 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Gear reduction.  Without any gear reduction, the motors run at like 3000
> RPMs.  They should be running in the 400 RPM range.
>
> Derek
>
> On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 12:32 AM, ryan wells  wrote:
>
>> Do you mean a gear ratio reduction?
>>
>>
>> Ryan P.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Date: Sat, 15 May 2010 20:48:59 +0430
>>
>> Subject: Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3
>> From: tan...@gmail.com
>> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>>
>>
>> Those motors will be fine with a reduction
>>
>> Derek
>>
>> On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 8:04 PM, Doug Conn  wrote:
>>
>>  RocketMan (AC004) used one of those and it was very speedy. It used a
>> 6.5 : 1 reduction with the help of a large #25 sprocket from Surplus Center.
>>
>>
>>
>> -  Doug
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
>> rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Don Shankin
>> *Sent:* Saturday, May 15, 2010 10:20 AM
>> *To:* rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>> *Subject:* Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3
>>
>>
>>
>> For what it's worth, these are the motors I'm using:
>>
>> http://www.tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106110
>>
>> I believe that they are the same as the M01 motors, only without the gear
>> box (I bought them ages ago, before I ever heard any talk of the M01
>> motors).  I'll be making a custom chain-based reduction for them.
>>
>>
>>
>> On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 4:17 PM, Thomas Lum  wrote:
>>
>> You want these motors or ones exactly like them.
>>
>> http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>>
>>
>>
>> Joe has a list of the vendors underneath since I think he doesn't buy them
>> anymore. You can also try tnc scooters
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On May 14, 2010, at 5:10 PM, ryan wells  wrote:
>>
>>  would these motors be efficient?
>> http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-210-1009.html
>> Ryan P.
>>
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Re: [TANKS] Absolute genius

[Don Shankin]

On Sat, May 15, 2010 at 7:19 PM, Ben Holko  wrote:

> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F6zE__J0YIU
>
>
>
> This thing may revolutionize all transmissions.
>
>
>
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Nice concept.  I'm glad they addressed my concern of having to power the
second shaft.  I was on board until he said he estimated it to be an _order
of magnitude_ more efficient than the current CVT transmissions (not geared
transmissions, but CVTs even!).  We'll see where this ends up when you
figure in powering that second shaft.  I'm guessing (with no facts or
numbers whatsoever) that it will be on par with losses associated with a
torque converter (which may be OK because at the end of the day this thing
is still a high-torque CVT).

-Don "I'm a computer engineer not a mechanical engineer" Shankin

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Re: [TANKS] Sd.Kfz.250/8 Neü 7.5 cm KwK51 (Progress report)

[Don Shankin]

Now that I've wiped the drool off of my keyboard, I just want to say that
you do awesome work.  Care to share any details of your casting process
publlically?  This is exactly want I want to do, but am afraid to try.

On Wed, May 12, 2010 at 10:02 AM, Forlorn Foundry
wrote:

> Sd.Kfz.250/8 Neü 7.5 cm KwK51 (Progress report)
>
> [IMG]http://i804.photobucket.com/albums/yy326/ForlornFoundry/SdKfz
> %20250/sdkfz250-8-neu-1.jpg[/IMG]
>
>
> http://s804.photobucket.com/albums/yy326/ForlornFoundry/1-6th%20scale%20SdKfz%20250%208%20Neu/
>
> I've made a lot of progress since my last post
> - I finished casting all the road wheels
> - Made patterns for and cast three-part drive sprokets
> - Started work on the lower hull made from aluminum plating and a lot
> of drilling and tapping.
> - Started work on front suspension/steering (biggest pain in my butt
> so far ).  I'm waiting on some spring steel strip to build the front
> leaf spring.
>
> I still have a lot of work to do before it's driving around but I'm
> happy with the progress I've made so far. Next on the list will be
> making new swing arms (I wasn't happy with the ones I cast),  make up
> some track link patterns and start casting.
>
> Let me know what you think.
>
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Re: [TANKS] sherman m4a3

[Don Shankin]

For what it's worth, these are the motors I'm using:

http://www.tncscooters.com/product.php?sku=106110

I believe that they are the same as the M01 motors, only without the gear
box (I bought them ages ago, before I ever heard any talk of the M01
motors).  I'll be making a custom chain-based reduction for them.

On Fri, May 14, 2010 at 4:17 PM, Thomas Lum  wrote:

> You want these motors or ones exactly like them.
> http://www.anvilus.com/motor01.html
>
> Joe has a list of the vendors underneath since I think he doesn't buy them
> anymore. You can also try tnc scooters
>
>
>
>
> On May 14, 2010, at 5:10 PM, ryan wells  wrote:
>
> would these motors be efficient?
> 
> http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/AME-210-1009.html
> Ryan P.
>
>
> --
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Re: [TANKS] Re: Where to..

[Don Shankin]

For what it's worth, I am planning on using wii controllers for my Abrams
tank.  I haven't read through this entire thread as it's rather long.  I
have skimmed parts, and would like to address some of the things I've read.
If these points have already been resolved, please disregard my addition.

First of all, there are several interfaces on the wii controllers.  Yes,
there is an infrared interface.  There is also a bluetooth interface.  Using
a wii controller does not require you to use infrared.

The wii controllers have several features that can used to control a tank,
including accelerometers and analog joysticks (on the nunchuk component).
The wii controller is far from being useless to control a tank

For my control system, I have designed (and produced) a working pcb, and
written microcontroller code that reads the analog joysticks on the wii
nunchuks.  I will be using an xbee wireless serial link to connect the
transmitter and receiver boards that I have designed.  This will allow me to
use a wii nunchuk in each hand, using one joystick for tank movement, and
the other joystick for turret movement.  There are even well placed index
finger trigger buttons on each nunchuk for firing.  Far from useless :-)

Oh, and there are xbee modules available that allow for up to 15 miles
ranges on clear days (which don't operate in the 2.4ghz spectrum, so no
interference from cell towers, wifi hotspots, and microwaves like you have
with bluetooth)


(For the record, I think this list is awesome... sarcasm, nay-saying, and
all  :-)
-- 
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NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
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Re: [TANKS] Sprockets

[Don Shankin]

Sorry, here's the link to the sprocket wizard on their website:

http://www.mcmaster.com/#roller-chain-sprockets/=59tbpu



On Thu, Jan 7, 2010 at 10:25 AM, Don Shankin  wrote:

> You can get sprockets with any common combination of  tooth pitch, tooth
> count, and shaft diameter at McMaster.
>
> As a side note, pulleys are defined by diameter.  On sprockets, the tooth
> pitch and tooth count implies the diameter
>
> On Thu, Jan 7, 2010 at 8:31 AM, Morgan, John 
> wrote:
>
>>  What is a good source for sprockets?  I need a 4.5 – 5 inch diameter 12
>> or 13 tooth sprocket (actually, I need 4 of them).
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>>
>>
>> John Morgan
>>
>> Richmond, VA
>>
>> --
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>
>
>
> --
> --
> Donald Shankin
> Computer Engineering Undergrad
> Blue Marble Security Member
> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> CAEL Partner
> (507) 301-2499
> dtsha...@mtu.edu
> dshan...@gmail.com
> --
>



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(507) 301-2499
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Re: [TANKS] Sprockets

[Don Shankin]

You can get sprockets with any common combination of  tooth pitch, tooth
count, and shaft diameter at McMaster.

As a side note, pulleys are defined by diameter.  On sprockets, the tooth
pitch and tooth count implies the diameter

On Thu, Jan 7, 2010 at 8:31 AM, Morgan, John wrote:

>  What is a good source for sprockets?  I need a 4.5 – 5 inch diameter 12
> or 13 tooth sprocket (actually, I need 4 of them).
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> John Morgan
>
> Richmond, VA
>
> --
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NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
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(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
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[TANKS] Re: fuel for my tank

[Don Shankin]

...Having said that, if you're looking to shed some weight, and you have
some cash to burn, LiPo is a nice route to go.

If you're seriously considering LiPo, look in to lithium iron phosphate
(LiFePO4) packs.  They are safer than traditional LIPo, and you can get
large packs that perform similar to the SLA packs that everyone else is
using.

Just my $.02

On Wed, Oct 14, 2009 at 11:48 PM, Gregory Pwneror wrote:

> LiPo batteries aren't really needed, as they are mostly used in RC planes
> where weight is at a premium. LiPo batteries also have a lower max current
> you can pull from them, and exceeding the limits isn't recommended.
>
> -Gregory
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 2:47 PM, Tango71  wrote:
>
>>
>> I think the question is more or less about what different power plants
>> you can use for a model RC tank. If that is the case then sure, you
>> CAN use an internal combustion engine to power your tank. You just
>> cant use it to battle with the rest of the tanks on this site. I am
>> building my tank for the pure fun of it and not to do paintball
>> battles. Its powered by a 2.4hp engine and uses a differential braking
>> steering system.
>>
>> Check it out if you want. I yet have a lot of work to do. It is a 1/4
>> scale tank after all.
>>
>> http://kingtigerproject.webs.com/
>>
>> On Oct 14, 12:32 pm, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:
>> > LiPo is okexpensive, but ok...
>> >
>> > Derek
>> >
>> > On Wed, Oct 14, 2009 at 2:13 PM, Sgt.A.Johnson <
>> >
>> > callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Lipo is still a battery. MOre expensive purchase but nothing to stop
>> > > you to the extent of my knowledge. Dont trust that though. I dont have
>> > > any assets. or any real experience with RC. Other than able to operate
>> > > an RC digger with twin tracks and full arm control no problems ive not
>> > > really done more than a toy RC car.
>> >
>> > > On Oct 14, 7:35 pm, -mo  wrote:
>> > > > can i use lipo
>> >
>> > > > On 14 Oct, 00:57, Don Shankin  wrote:
>> >
>> > > > > I believe that per the rules you must be using some form of
>> electric
>> > > > > (battery, solar(lol)) etc...
>> >
>> > > > > Safety first
>> >
>> > > > > On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 2:53 PM, -mo 
>> > > wrote:
>> >
>> > > > > > i am thinking of building a tank but what chioces are there
>> > > > > > i know there is electric but what else
>> >
>>
>> >
>>
>>
>
> >
>

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[TANKS] Re: fuel for my tank

[Don Shankin]

I believe that per the rules you must be using some form of electric
(battery, solar(lol)) etc...

Safety first

On Tue, Oct 13, 2009 at 2:53 PM, -mo  wrote:

>
> i am thinking of building a tank but what chioces are there
> i know there is electric but what else
> >
>


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Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: controll tank from pc?

[Don Shankin]

Not sure if I'm following you correctly (I'm half asleep as it is :-)  But
I'm going to be using xbee radios with 1 mile range (I know that's
theoretical, but it should be Good Enough for tanking), so there should be
no trouble at all...

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 7:06 PM, Gregory Pwneror wrote:

> When the Wii first came out a couple of years ago I started a conversation
> here about using a wiimote, but no-one replied :(
> I have a feeling you'd run into some trouble when you decide to actually
> move, as in follow your tank, especially if you run.
>
> -Gregory
>
>
> On Sat, Oct 10, 2009 at 7:44 AM, Sgt.A.Johnson <
> callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Oh yeah that would make sense then sensors in remote. Cos something
>> ive tried and tested is you can use 2 tea candles instead of the
>> sensor bar and it works. Not well though. Wrong distance apart i
>> guess. See what you mean about tipping controller though and sending
>> it into tree. Would be funny to an extent. Unless you break the tank.
>> I have seen an xbox online hacked to run vista basic before. Must of
>> been hard and I think their were a few hardware changes to it to allow
>> it to install. All I know about hacking/modding consoles and
>> controllers is how to get the controllers/console open and change the
>> max capacity for classic and 360 xboxes. Classic xbox uses a normal
>> desktop PC 3.something inch hdd. 360s removable hard drive is actually
>> just a caddy for a laptop 2.whatever inch hdd. Back all files up from
>> the old hdd to a PC and then can copy some onto a new one. Microsoft
>> can detect it apparently and will ban your live account and i dont
>> have any spare hard drives lying around anyway to try it anyway. One
>> of my dads mates manages to get 500gb on his old xbox for the hell of
>> it.
>>
>> On Oct 9, 7:26 pm, Clark Ward Jr  wrote:
>> > But even if your tank is a winner with this setup, it'll still go wii
>> > wii wii, all the way home :)
>> >
>> > More seriously, I applaud the guys who can get these systems hacked
>> > and operational :)
>> >
>> > --
>> > Clark in Georgia, Commissar of the Red Banner Southern Fleet
>> > "We will pass through the American patrols, past their sonar nets, and
>> > lay off their largest city, and listen to their rock and roll... while
>> > we conduct missile drills."
>>
>>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: controll tank from pc?

[Don Shankin]

It is completely possible to use the tilt function.  I have an atmel
microcontroller set up to read all data from the wii nunchucks, which
includes button presses, joystick angle, and the tilt sensors.  It's
actually pretty cool.  I could have gotten away with using one wii nunchuk
(using the joystick for turret and tilt sensors for motion, or vise versa)
but I decided not to use the tilt sensors because you have to hold your
hands at certain agles to get certain movements, and I thought that would be
kind of akward, and if I get excited during a battle and move my hands
around, I could send the tank into a tree (!)  But it's possible.  Besides,
I thought it would look cool to have a wii nunchuk in each hand to control
the tanks.  Just to be clear, I'm using the wii nunchuk w/ joystick, and not
the wiimote itself.

Oh by the way, the "sensor" bar has nothing to do with tilt functionality.
In fact, there are no sensors in the sensor bar.  It's simply some infrared
leds at each end.  The sensors are in the front of the wiimote.

On Fri, Oct 9, 2009 at 11:26 AM, Sgt.A.Johnson <
callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com> wrote:

>
> That would be pretty cool. Do you know if it would be possible to use
> the tilt functions on the wii remote or not. Im guessing not as
> although there is a mechanical snesor in the controller I think, it
> still uses mainly the sensor bar i think. Something a mate thought of
> recently is using a guitar hero controller for some reason. Cant see
> how it would work but he thinks it could be done. I dont think it
> would though.
>
> On Oct 9, 4:19 pm, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > For my tank, I'm going to control movement and all turret movement with
> the
> > joysticks on two wii nunchuks.  I have a working design for it, just
> waiting
> > on the circuit boards to be made.  I put a USB port on the board as well,
> to
> > allow the tank to be controlled from a computer if so desired.  If anyone
> is
> > interested in this, I can post my gerber files, as well as the firmware
> for
> > the microcontroller once I get it written (after I get my boards)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 12:49 PM, -mo  wrote:
> >
> > >  i was searching today on the net looking up rc tanks and i stumbled
> > > upon this product that claims to control you tank car or whatever from
> > > your computer
> >
> > > personally i think this would be great if you were controlling your
> > > tank from  long distances and if you strap a camera to your tank this
> > > would be better than vidoe games
> >
> > > BUT
> >
> > > IT is a waste of money
> >
> > > i don t know your choice checkout i out for your self
> > >  http://www.endurance-rc.com/pctx.html
> >
> > --
> > --
> > Donald Shankin
> > Computer Engineering Undergrad
> > Blue Marble Security Member
> > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> > CAEL Partner
> > (507) 301-2499
> > dtsha...@mtu.edu
> > dshan...@gmail.com
> > --
> >
>


-- 
--
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Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: controll tank from pc?

[Don Shankin]

For my tank, I'm going to control movement and all turret movement with the
joysticks on two wii nunchuks.  I have a working design for it, just waiting
on the circuit boards to be made.  I put a USB port on the board as well, to
allow the tank to be controlled from a computer if so desired.  If anyone is
interested in this, I can post my gerber files, as well as the firmware for
the microcontroller once I get it written (after I get my boards)

On Tue, Oct 6, 2009 at 12:49 PM, -mo  wrote:

>
>  i was searching today on the net looking up rc tanks and i stumbled
> upon this product that claims to control you tank car or whatever from
> your computer
>
> personally i think this would be great if you were controlling your
> tank from  long distances and if you strap a camera to your tank this
> would be better than vidoe games
>
> BUT
>
> IT is a waste of money
>
> i don t know your choice checkout i out for your self
>  http://www.endurance-rc.com/pctx.html
> >
>


-- 
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Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: Timing circuit for canon firing - help?

[Don Shankin]

Good call, just be careful around those caps

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 6:13 PM, Gregory Pwneror wrote:

> If you need to find a MOSFET look inside an old computer power supply, they
> usually have half a dozen of them inside. They also have 1600uf capacitors
> :)
>
> -Gregory
>
>
> On Sun, Aug 23, 2009 at 7:36 AM, Frank Pittelli 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> Don Shankin wrote:
>> > Are you talking about MOSFETs?  They're essentially voltage-controlled
>> > transistors (as opposed to being current controlled).
>>
>> Yes, there is a new breed of MOSFETs called "self-protected MOSFETs"
>> that are specifically designed to be driven from logic levels and that
>> protect against all kinds of problems.  For example, see:
>>
>>http://www.onsemi.com/PowerSolutions/parametrics.do?id=819
>>
>> The last time I looked (about 6 months ago), they only produced them in
>> tiny surface mount packages (which are too small for my eyes and
>> soldering skills :-)  However, while googling to answer this question, I
>> see that they are now producing them in good old TO-220 packages, so
>> I'll have to see if my normal electronics suppliers stock them as well.
>>
>> The nice thing about this new breed is that (a) they are designed for
>> logic level inputs, (b) they protect the logic circuit from load
>> problems and (c) they don't need suppression diodes when used with
>> inductive loads.  Basically, they are a one package solution for
>> switching 4-6A loads.   When I start noodling with circuit designs in
>> the winter (the official season for circuit noodling) I plan on playing
>> with them to see how well they work for my purposes (cheap, durable,
>> easy to repair).
>>
>>Frank P.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
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Blue Marble Security Member
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NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: Timing circuit for canon firing - help?

[Don Shankin]

@ Modena:

Also don't forget the appropriate resistors on the base and collector

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 10:40 AM, Don Shankin  wrote:

> @ Frank:
>
> Are you talking about MOSFETs?  They're essentially voltage-controlled
> transistors (as opposed to being current controlled).  They can be had with
> an extremely low "on-resistance" which makes them ideal for very high
> current applications, since they dissipate much less heat than an equiv. BJT
> (if you can even find an equiv. BJT with the same current handling
> capability).  Another useful feature is because they're voltage controlled,
> you can wire many of them in parallel to essentially make one huge MOSFET
> (this is how the open-source motor controller is able to handle several
> hundred amps of current draw and still stay cool)  They certinally exist in
> through-hole packaging.  You can check out Digikey, or Futurlec (where I get
> all of my components from).  Here's a link:
> http://futurlec.com/TransMosIRF.shtml  They can be a little pricey, but
> they have pretty impressive characteristics.  LoL @ "new kids on the block"
>
> @ Modena:
>
> I'm guessing that your problem has to do with the fact that you're trying
> to switch a 12v valve with a 555 timer that's running on 5v.  You should
> place a small NPN transistor (like a PN or similar) between the 555 and
> the valve.  Connect your 12v source the collector and your 555 output to the
> base.  Connect the valve to the emitter.  Give that a try
>
>
> On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 5:26 AM, Modena  wrote:
>
>>
>> hrm, have I made an error of judgement in assuming that the SSR I
>> bought is in fact opto-isolated?
>>
>>
>> On Aug 22, 8:17 pm, Modena  wrote:
>> > Frank, so my basic understanding is that the opto-isolator you speak
>> > of is an SSR, if this is the case why do I need another relay in-line
>> > after the SSR?
>> >
>> > I tried today hooking up output to an automotive relay, which produced
>> > weird results, no doubt because the relay could not switch fast
>> > enough. Then I tried a 12v SSR, less weird, but it still stays "on" -
>> > again, reverting to just the LED and all was well.
>> >
>> > On Aug 22, 2:09 pm, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > > Modena wrote:
>> > > > testing the circuit with an LED works fine, but when I hook up my
>> > > > actual 12v valve, it must be causing interference or something
>> because
>> > > > pressing fire and the circuit switches on, and stays on
>> indefinitely,
>> > > > hence the valve stays open.
>> >
>> > > > anyone have any ideas how I might filter this?
>> >
>> > > You need to isolate the load from the logic.  There are three basic
>> > > solutions: transistor, logic-level FET or opto-isolator/relay.
>> >
>> > > If the load isn't too big and you like ruining lots of circuitry
>> trying
>> > > to make things reliable, a simple transistor can be used.  There are
>> > > deceptive devices, however, and when you think you've got them working
>> > > properly, they bite you.  There are dozens of circuits on the web,
>> which
>> > > tells you just how many people have tried to design the "perfect"
>> > > transistor switching circuit.
>> >
>> > > The new kids on the block are logic-level FETs (I think they have a
>> more
>> > > official name) have been designed to be fool-proof, allowing logic
>> > > circuits to directly drive a high current FET.  They have all kinds of
>> > > safeguards built into them (designed to eliminate the need for all
>> those
>> > > fancy transistor circuits mentioned above), but I have yet to find one
>> > > with good old-fashioned solder leads ... they all seem to be tiny
>> little
>> > > surface mount packages.  If you find one, let me know, because I'll
>> use
>> > > them for everything.
>> >
>> > > The approach that I've used the most (along with Dr. Sommer) involves
>> an
>> > > opto-isolator IC and a relay.  The logic triggers the opto-isolator
>> (5v,
>> > > very low current), the opto-isolator triggers the relay (usually 5v or
>> > > 12v, 100ma or so) and the relay triggers the load (any voltage, any
>> > > load).  It sounds like a lot, but it's quite simple once you've wired
>> it
>> > > a couple times and it is

[TANKS] Re: Timing circuit for canon firing - help?

[Don Shankin]

@ Frank:

Are you talking about MOSFETs?  They're essentially voltage-controlled
transistors (as opposed to being current controlled).  They can be had with
an extremely low "on-resistance" which makes them ideal for very high
current applications, since they dissipate much less heat than an equiv. BJT
(if you can even find an equiv. BJT with the same current handling
capability).  Another useful feature is because they're voltage controlled,
you can wire many of them in parallel to essentially make one huge MOSFET
(this is how the open-source motor controller is able to handle several
hundred amps of current draw and still stay cool)  They certinally exist in
through-hole packaging.  You can check out Digikey, or Futurlec (where I get
all of my components from).  Here's a link:
http://futurlec.com/TransMosIRF.shtml  They can be a little pricey, but they
have pretty impressive characteristics.  LoL @ "new kids on the block"

@ Modena:

I'm guessing that your problem has to do with the fact that you're trying to
switch a 12v valve with a 555 timer that's running on 5v.  You should place
a small NPN transistor (like a PN or similar) between the 555 and the
valve.  Connect your 12v source the collector and your 555 output to the
base.  Connect the valve to the emitter.  Give that a try

On Sat, Aug 22, 2009 at 5:26 AM, Modena  wrote:

>
> hrm, have I made an error of judgement in assuming that the SSR I
> bought is in fact opto-isolated?
>
>
> On Aug 22, 8:17 pm, Modena  wrote:
> > Frank, so my basic understanding is that the opto-isolator you speak
> > of is an SSR, if this is the case why do I need another relay in-line
> > after the SSR?
> >
> > I tried today hooking up output to an automotive relay, which produced
> > weird results, no doubt because the relay could not switch fast
> > enough. Then I tried a 12v SSR, less weird, but it still stays "on" -
> > again, reverting to just the LED and all was well.
> >
> > On Aug 22, 2:09 pm, Frank Pittelli  wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > > Modena wrote:
> > > > testing the circuit with an LED works fine, but when I hook up my
> > > > actual 12v valve, it must be causing interference or something
> because
> > > > pressing fire and the circuit switches on, and stays on indefinitely,
> > > > hence the valve stays open.
> >
> > > > anyone have any ideas how I might filter this?
> >
> > > You need to isolate the load from the logic.  There are three basic
> > > solutions: transistor, logic-level FET or opto-isolator/relay.
> >
> > > If the load isn't too big and you like ruining lots of circuitry trying
> > > to make things reliable, a simple transistor can be used.  There are
> > > deceptive devices, however, and when you think you've got them working
> > > properly, they bite you.  There are dozens of circuits on the web,
> which
> > > tells you just how many people have tried to design the "perfect"
> > > transistor switching circuit.
> >
> > > The new kids on the block are logic-level FETs (I think they have a
> more
> > > official name) have been designed to be fool-proof, allowing logic
> > > circuits to directly drive a high current FET.  They have all kinds of
> > > safeguards built into them (designed to eliminate the need for all
> those
> > > fancy transistor circuits mentioned above), but I have yet to find one
> > > with good old-fashioned solder leads ... they all seem to be tiny
> little
> > > surface mount packages.  If you find one, let me know, because I'll use
> > > them for everything.
> >
> > > The approach that I've used the most (along with Dr. Sommer) involves
> an
> > > opto-isolator IC and a relay.  The logic triggers the opto-isolator
> (5v,
> > > very low current), the opto-isolator triggers the relay (usually 5v or
> > > 12v, 100ma or so) and the relay triggers the load (any voltage, any
> > > load).  It sounds like a lot, but it's quite simple once you've wired
> it
> > > a couple times and it is one of the most reliable switching approaches.
> >
> > > Frank P.
> >
>


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[TANKS] Re: How robust is the TTS Sprocket

[Don Shankin]

I figured as much.  Thanks for the reply

That's a beautiful tank by the way.

On Wed, Aug 19, 2009 at 7:47 PM, Steve Tyng  wrote:

>
> I guess I can answer this since it's my pdf you downloaded.
>
> > 1:  The recess between teeth looks a little shallow.  Have any of you
> guys
> > using this setup (especially those of you with larger thanks) had any
> > problems with the sprocket slipping on the track pads, or otherwise
>
> The tracks on the Cromwell (T040) will occasionally slip.  Usually
> during severe braking maneuvers.  I planned and wanted some slippage,
> think of it as a mechanical fuse.
>
> > 2:  Have any of you had any problems with the sprocket teeth breaking
> during
> > use?
>
> No broken teeth after three battling seasons.  I guess this particular
> datum would really depend on what you make the sprocket out of.  Mine
> are made out of cabinet grade plywood.
>
> Check our http://rctankcombat.com/tanks/T040/Page6.html
>
>
> Steve Tyng
>
>
> >
>


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[TANKS] How robust is the TTS Sprocket

[Don Shankin]

Hey everyone,

So I'm beginning to transition work from my suspension to my track system.
I plan to use the sprocket-driven TTS system.  I downloaded the pdf of the
sprocket and cut one out on my bandsaw.  Looking at the finished product I
have two questions:

1:  The recess between teeth looks a little shallow.  Have any of you guys
using this setup (especially those of you with larger thanks) had any
problems with the sprocket slipping on the track pads, or otherwise not
engaging during movement?

2:  Have any of you had any problems with the sprocket teeth breaking during
use?

Thanks

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[TANKS] Re: Sherman Internal Details

[Don Shankin]

Mike,

If you'd like to go down this road I can definitely help you out along the
way.  Just as an example, I think for control of my Abrams it would be cool
to use a Wii Nunchuck/microcontroller with an Xbee pro, so we'll see how
that goes.

Yeah, I know how to hook up a pot, but like I said, I would suggest using
pwm instead.  A potentiometer is a resistive voltage divider, and wasted
energy in these devices is directly proportional to the current used (which
will be high running tanks!).  Using PWM gets rid of this problem, because
it basically turns the voltage on and off very quickly.  The inductive load
of the motor (the motor windings) averages out these on and off
transitions.  (for example, if we switch between 0 and 5volts with 5 volts
"on" 50% of the time, the motor thinks that it's getting the average, or 2.5
volts).  There are other advantages as well, but for high current motor
controlling this is the way to go

On Sun, Aug 16, 2009 at 4:31 PM, Mike Måne  wrote:

>
> George: I was considering that idea, but using servos to control these
> 15-year-old things probably won't go very smoothly, or as you said, it
> would be delayed. Also, a switch must be thrown to simply reverse the
> motors. I think it would be best to simply replace the original
> controls with a receiver.
>
> Don: The term "microcontroller" sounds like it must be a cool idea.
> I'm not an electrician, so you might have to send me a little
> instruction for guidance, but your help would be appreciated. Do you
> know how to hook up a potentiometer?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> -Mike M.
>
> On 16/08/2009, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > I would suggest a PWM controller to control the speed.  I'm not sure how
> > much they are to purchase, but if you're handy with
> electronics/programming,
> > you can make one on a microcontroller.  I made one on an Atmel
> > microcontroller that sets the PWM duty cycle based on serial commands.
>  If
> > you're interested I can send you the source for this.  The only parts you
> > need are an atmel micro, a max232 level shifter, and a few caps...  less
> > than $10 in parts
> >
> > >
> >
>
>
> --
> -Mike Måne @
> http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
>
> >
>


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[TANKS] Re: Sherman Internal Details

[Don Shankin]

I would suggest a PWM controller to control the speed.  I'm not sure how
much they are to purchase, but if you're handy with electronics/programming,
you can make one on a microcontroller.  I made one on an Atmel
microcontroller that sets the PWM duty cycle based on serial commands.  If
you're interested I can send you the source for this.  The only parts you
need are an atmel micro, a max232 level shifter, and a few caps...  less
than $10 in parts

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[TANKS] Re: Nema 34 stepper motor

[Don Shankin]

OK.  Keep us posted though.  Because if you can find them at a decent (even
if more expensive cost) I'm interested in getting a few

On Thu, Jun 18, 2009 at 11:28 AM, Jason R Schafer
wrote:

> Don I think you are correct - the Nema 34 spec is only a frame
> size/mounting configuration for the motor.  I haven't found a low cost
> source yet - I expect they will cost at least twice as much as the most
> costly option Derek sent.
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 11:55 PM, Derek Engelhaupt wrote:
>
>> Jason,
>>
>> This was posted back in April about good motor options.  Since I cut and
>>
>> pasted out of the archive you'll probably have to do the same on the
>>
>> links.  These would be motors that would be very effective in our tanks.
>>
>> It's a risk using an unproven solution (motor in this case), sometimes
>> they pan out, sometimes
>>
>> they don't.  Personally I don't know anything about Stepper motors except
>>
>> how to replace them when they go bad in printers that I used to fix.
>>
>>
>> Derek
>>
>> T065
>>
>>
>>
>> On Apr 15, 12:08 pm, Steve Tyng 
>> http://groups.google.com/groups/unlock?_done=/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/6bb07694faaa0279/28dc2a3b73638bdc%3Flnk%3Dgst%26q%3DM-01%2Bmotors&msg=b30353d3b6f13740>
>> @gmail.com> wrote:
>>  > Allelectronics has another version of the *M01's* at a good price:
>> > http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-M...
>>
>> > You'll need to figure a different mounting.
>>
>> It now appears that we have five US vendors for MY1016Z3
>> or MY1018Z *motors*.
>>
>> http://shop.razor.com/product.php?productid=16391&cat=268&page=2
>> $35.99 (in stock)
>>
>> http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24v-350w-motor-dirt-quad.html#
>> $35.49 (out of stock)
>>
>> http://www.razorama.com/razor-dirt-quad-motor.html
>> $35.95 (out of stock)
>>
>> http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES
>> 350W GEARED Motor - 24 Volts (Style: MY1016Z3)
>> $55 (out of stock)
>>
>> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/DCM-2445/24VDC-450W-M...
>> $45 (in stock)
>> http://tncscooters.com/partsdb.php?type=ES
>> 450W GEARED Motor - 24 Volts (Style: MY1018Z)
>> $60 (out of stock)
>>
>>
>> >>
>>


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[TANKS] Re: Nema 34 stepper motor

[Don Shankin]

You can get those with massive torque ratings (IIRC, the nema 34 spec just
standardizes the motor dimensions, and not torque, power etc... but I could
be wrong).  I'm not sure what type of rpm you could get out of them though.
Driver circuits (if you build your own) are slightly more complex, but not
difficult.

Do you have a source for those at a good price?  Because if you did, I would
like a pair (3, actually) for an unrelated project

On Sun, Jun 14, 2009 at 9:15 PM, Jason R Schafer wrote:

> How well would two 24v dc nema 34 stepper motors work for the main drive
> system?
>
> Jason
>
> >
>


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(507) 301-2499
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[TANKS] Re: Tank Build

[Don Shankin]

Fred,

Just requesting a little clarification.  You picked these up an auto store,
so I'm assuming they're not meant to be deep cycled.  Do you draw them down
significantly when you run them, and if so have you had any issues with
them?

Also, since you're running a 24V system with the two batteries in series,
you still only have a 51AH capacity system, not 100 FYI =)

On Fri, Jun 12, 2009 at 10:41 AM, Fred Thomson wrote:

>
>
>
> On Jun 11, 9:35 am, Suprtrpr17674  wrote:
> > The lower hull measures 5 feet by 2 feet 9 inches and its pretty
> > heavy.  I have everything to make it into a rolling chassis except the
> > batteries.  Does anybody have input on the best batteries to run to
> > get maximum time?  I plan on running a 24volt system with two 12volt
> > batteries.
> >
>
>  I'm using two SBS60, 12v 51aH SLA batteries I picked up from Princess
> Auto's surplus aisle. They drive my two MY1016Z3 -350W, 24v motors and
> I get a fairly long runtime out of them. I've ran it around the test
> site for 40 minutes continuos (read Hard) use. Having a monstrous
> 100amp depth is really fantastic. The draw back is, and there is
> always one, the weight. These puppies weigh in at 40lbs each.
>
> Cheers,
> Fred
> >
>


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[TANKS] Re: Anyone have any treadmill belts?

[Don Shankin]

Interesting... where would I be able to get it?

On Wed, Jun 10, 2009 at 8:53 AM, Cold comfort  wrote:

>
> Don, try discharge hose. cents a foot and is rubber re-enforced with
> fabric so little to no stretch. I used it in T061, no problems at all.
> Because the hose is flat when you buy it, pick the width you want then
> slice it length ways on both sides and boom, two track lengths.
> Greg
>
> On Jun 8, 10:06 pm, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I'm making some progress with my Abrams, and I'd like to begin work on
> the
> > tracks.  Does anyone have a sufficient amount of treadmill belt that
> they'd
> > be willing to sell?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Don
> >
>


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[TANKS] Re: Anyone have any treadmill belts?

[Don Shankin]

Thanks John, I'm going to keep an eye on it and I'll snag it if I can't find
anything locally.

On Tue, Jun 9, 2009 at 8:37 PM, jvragu47  wrote:

>
> Don,
>   Try this item on Ebay.Item number: 160340249359  It's on sale
> for 30 bucks and has enough for a couple of vehicles.
>
> John
>
>
>
> On Jun 8, 9:06 pm, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I'm making some progress with my Abrams, and I'd like to begin work on
> the
> > tracks.  Does anyone have a sufficient amount of treadmill belt that
> they'd
> > be willing to sell?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > -Don
> >
>


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[TANKS] Re: Anyone have any treadmill belts?

[Don Shankin]

Derek,

That'd be great, thanks!

On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 10:12 PM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

> Don,
>
> We have a small gym in town.  Maybe they have some.  I'll see if I can
> swing by during work one of these days this week.
>
> Derek
> T065
>
>
> On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:06 PM, Don Shankin  wrote:
>
>> Hey guys,
>>
>> I'm making some progress with my Abrams, and I'd like to begin work on the
>> tracks.  Does anyone have a sufficient amount of treadmill belt that they'd
>> be willing to sell?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> -Don
>>
>>
>>
>
> >
>


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(507) 301-2499
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[TANKS] Re: Anyone have any treadmill belts?

[Don Shankin]

I tried that today... no luck =(

On Mon, Jun 8, 2009 at 8:31 PM,  wrote:

>  Try going to your local gym and talk to the mechanic. They usually change
> the belts at least once a year.
>
> Will
>
>
>  -Original Message-
> From: Don Shankin 
> To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> Sent: Mon, 8 Jun 2009 9:06 pm
> Subject: [TANKS] Anyone have any treadmill belts?
>
>  Hey guys,
>
> I'm making some progress with my Abrams, and I'd like to begin work on the
> tracks.  Does anyone have a sufficient amount of treadmill belt that they'd
> be willing to sell?
>
> Thanks,
> -Don
>
>
>
> --
> Wanna slim down for summer? Go to America Takes it 
> Off<http://www.aolhealth.com/diet/weight-loss-program/?ncid=emlcntusheal0001>to
>  learn how.
>
> >
>


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[TANKS] Anyone have any treadmill belts?

[Don Shankin]

Hey guys,

I'm making some progress with my Abrams, and I'd like to begin work on the
tracks.  Does anyone have a sufficient amount of treadmill belt that they'd
be willing to sell?

Thanks,
-Don

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[TANKS] Re: Tank Hauler?

[Don Shankin]

On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 9:31 AM, Derek Engelhaupt  wrote:

>
> although, we did strap a X-mas
> tree to the top of our old '97 Miata when we lived in Maryland.
>

Got any pics of that? lol =)


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[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise

[Don Shankin]

Actually it's quite common for metal casings to be ground (pardon the pun).
Most motors I've used in projects are wired this way, as well as things like
your computer, dvd player, etc...

On Fri, Feb 6, 2009 at 1:44 AM, Doug Conn  wrote:

>
> Yeah, that's what the diagram shows in Figure 2, all right. I'm used to the
> configuration they show in Figure 1. Figure 2 makes sense to me only if the
> motor case is grounded, but grounding the case seems like a bad idea.
>
>- Doug
>
>
> It seems like that would only work if the motor case was grounded, and
> there
> are good reasons why you don't want to
>
> -Original Message-
> From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
> On Behalf Of Joker
> Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 8:26 PM
> To: R/C Tank Combat
> Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
>
>
> Actually, thats what i did, and i'm pretty sure thats what all the
> diagrams told me to do.  Seems crazy, but thats the recomendation.
> One cap going from + to -, one cap going from + to case, one cap going
> from - to case.  I found multiple articles suggesting this.  Here is
> the link to one article:  http://www.teamdelta.com/pdf/tde_an1.pdf
>
> So far, i just did it to my 'test' motor.  I figured i'd use an extra
> motor in case i messed up, or couldn't put it back together, but i
> figured that part out. I figure this, along with the new automotive
> relays with diodes in them, should do the trick, or else its back to
> the drawling board.
>
> Jeremy
>
>
> On Feb 5, 7:29 pm, "Doug Conn"  wrote:
> > I can't tell from the photo ... did you solder one lead of the capacitor
> to
> > a motor power line and the other end to the motor case ? If so, I don't
> > think that's wise.
> >
> > - Doug
> >
> >
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:
> rctankcom...@googlegroups.com]
> >
> > On Behalf Of Joker
> > Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:20 PM
> > To: R/C Tank Combat
> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Motor Noise
> >
> > Ok, took a few more days then i figured, but i finally got some
> > pictures.  I posted them in the files section.  Uh, how do i put them
> > in the message?  I'm sure i use to know how, but i forgot.  Anyhow,
> > they are in the files section.  Name stars "M" and has the specific
> > thing that i'm trying to point out.  I put it all back together, and
> > works as good as when i started.
> >
> > On Jan 31, 1:14 am, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > > I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks
> like
> > > you're all set.  What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic,
> > > expensive mylar...?)
> >
> > > Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if
> you've
> > > never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from
> > > futurlec.com.  They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for
> > general
> > > components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers.
>  The
> > > only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on
> > one
> > > order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while.
> >  Otherwise
> > > they've been awesome.  Also, I think they're based in australia, so you
> > guys
> > > may have better luck with shipping down there
> >
> > > On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker 
> wrote:
> >
> > > > I broke one open.  I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them.
> > > > Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay.  Bought a
> > > > whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon.  figured i'd try to install
> > > > them to keep from frying relays.  I also bought some relays with
> > > > diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays.
> > > > I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon.  I figure its this,
> > > > or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v.
> >
> > > --
> > > --
> > > Donald Shankin
> > > Computer Engineering Undergrad
> > > Blue Marble Security Member
> > > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > CAEL Partner
> > > (507) 301-2499
> > > dtsha...@mtu.edu
> > > dshan...@gmail.com
> > > --- Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise

[Don Shankin]

I was going to suggest that you buy some diodes as well, but it looks like
you're all set.  What type of caps did you buy? (electrolytic, ceramic,
expensive mylar...?)

Also, I don't know what you paid for the caps from Amazon, but if you've
never been to the site before I usually get all of my stuff from
futurlec.com.  They are by far the cheapest place I've ever seen for general
components all the way up to things like ADCs and microcontrollers.  The
only downside is that the shipping can be hit or miss sometimes, and on one
order (out of dozens that I've placed) I had to wait for a while.  Otherwise
they've been awesome.  Also, I think they're based in australia, so you guys
may have better luck with shipping down there

On Fri, Jan 30, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Joker  wrote:

>
> I broke one open.  I'll take pictures of it tonight and post them.
> Didn't see any capitors in the one's i bought off ebay.  Bought a
> whole bunch of 0.1uf cap's off amazon.  figured i'd try to install
> them to keep from frying relays.  I also bought some relays with
> diodes in them, in another attempt to keep me from frying relays.
> I'll have to see if all my little bits work soon.  I figure its this,
> or start running my tank at 12v instead of 24v.
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise

[Don Shankin]

Hmmm, I"m also using MY1016 motors.  I thought I read somewhere that the
come already wired with caps inside the casing?  I haven't taken these apart
so I don't know for sure one way or the other.  It's so hard to find
reliable information on these motors

On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 8:06 PM, Joker  wrote:

>
> I saw that motor noise may be causing my contacts to fry on my relay
> motor controller.  I bought some capcitors to try to fix this, but i
> was wondering if you have to have them as close to the motor as
> possible (or to get the best effect), or if i can wire them into
> places where i already have connectors (like near the fuses, with a
> wire leading to the motor housings for that).  I know logic says that
> near the motor is probably best, but the wires for the brushes lead
> into the case, and i'd have to cut the wires close to the case, and i
> don't prefer to do that.  Just FYI, i'm using the MY1016 motors.
>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Motor Noise

[Don Shankin]

You can use caps for decoupling in more than one place.  You can put them
near the motor (this is a good idea and helps prolong the life of the motor)
and you can also put them closer to the electronics as well.  If you have
access to an oscope and can see what frequency  noise you're getting, you
can pick out specific caps to filter these frequencies out.  Otherwise, you
can get and use several larger and smaller values to knock out a broader
range of noise frequencies.

On Thu, Jan 29, 2009 at 8:06 PM, Joker  wrote:

>
> I saw that motor noise may be causing my contacts to fry on my relay
> motor controller.  I bought some capcitors to try to fix this, but i
> was wondering if you have to have them as close to the motor as
> possible (or to get the best effect), or if i can wire them into
> places where i already have connectors (like near the fuses, with a
> wire leading to the motor housings for that).  I know logic says that
> near the motor is probably best, but the wires for the brushes lead
> into the case, and i'd have to cut the wires close to the case, and i
> don't prefer to do that.  Just FYI, i'm using the MY1016 motors.
>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Check out this church tank

[Don Shankin]

On Thu, Jan 22, 2009 at 5:23 AM, Phil  wrote:

>
>
> Let us prey.
>
>
LOL, nice pun

-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: relays?

[Don Shankin]

Oops... Forgot all about that.

-Original Message-
From: Joe Sommer 
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 5:22 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: relays?



On Jan 20, 3:54 pm, "Don Shankin"  wrote:
> You could get some cheap standard 24v (marine?) relays, and turn them on/off
> from your RC receiver.  Don't connect the receiver output directly to the
> relay; use a BJT or a MOSFET between them.  Nice and cheap

Driving a MOSFET directly from a radio Rx will
produce 50 Hz pulses with 2% to 4% duty cycle
which will not drive a relay.

Joe







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[TANKS] Re: Wheels, wheels and more wheels!

[Don Shankin]

This is exactly how I cut my 28 wheels.  No problems here

On Mon, Jan 19, 2009 at 8:18 PM, Modena  wrote:

>
> maybe there's an obvious answer to this, but I cant think of it as I
> bought my wheels, but for those making wheels out of wood or nylon or
> other soft material, why dont you use a hole saw? Then there's no
> mucking around with jigs and table saws, and all wheels will be
> idential - do it in a drill press to ensure a straight up-and-down cut
>
> wouldn't this work? the only trick might be that it can be difficult
> to extract the "wheel" from inside the hole saw, especially without
> damaging the "wheel"
>
>
> On Jan 20, 11:16 am, joseph carrig  wrote:
> > I have used Plasticote in my business with excellent results. As with any
> paint, prep can make or break a paint job.   Joe
> >
> > From: odysseyslipw...@aol.com
> > Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 12:01:40 -0500
> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Wheels, wheels and more wheels!
> > To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> >
> > In a message dated 1/18/2009 10:35:16 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> tan...@gmail.com writes:
> >
> > What
> >   about using PVC sheet instead of wood?  You could use all the
> > same
> >   wood working tools to form them.  Yes PVC sheet would be
> >   more
> > expensive, but it does take paint fairly well if it's cleaned
> >   before
> > painting.  Plus they make paints that bond to plastic
> >   called
> > Plasticote.  I painted some plastic faced hard drive carriers
> >   with it
> > and you can't even scratch it off with a finger nail.  1/4
> >   scale isn't
> > cheap;)
> >
> > Derek
> > i have heard of nightmares from people who have used that plsitcote
> > paint
> >
> > Chris,
> > Odyssey
> > Slipways
> >
> > A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above.  See yours in just 2 easy steps!
> >
> > _
> > Windows Live™ Hotmail(R): Chat. Store. Share. Do more with mail.
> http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_hm_justgotbett...
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: relays?

[Don Shankin]

You could get some cheap standard 24v (marine?) relays, and turn them on/off
from your RC receiver.  Don't connect the receiver output directly to the
relay; use a BJT or a MOSFET between them.  Nice and cheap

On Tue, Jan 20, 2009 at 11:43 AM, Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos <
xchr...@otenet.gr> wrote:

>
>
> Is there a trick that will do the same job for cheap?
>
> > The generic term is "R/C Switch", which will point to lots of different
> > products that do the same thing.  Most use relays, some use SSRs ... all
> > seem overly expensive for what they do :-)
> >
> > Frank P.
> >
> > >
> >
> >
> > __ NOD32 3434 (20080911) Information __
> >
> > This message was checked by NOD32 antivirus system.
> > http://www.eset.com
> >
> >
>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: track guide question

[Don Shankin]

I bought a few of them from HD.  I couldn't find any that were 1.5" wide...
they were .75" wide, so I put two of them side by side on a wheel.  I didn't
like how thick they were, and I couldn't get the edges to mesh up as nicely
as I wanted, so I killed that idea.  Last time I was at HD I saw some rubber
sheeting that was a lot thinner.  I think it was used for lining showers or
something like that.  I don't think I want a bouncy "tire", just something
to prevent wood on wood contact between the bogie wheels and the inner track
pieces

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 5:20 PM, Mike Måne  wrote:

> Some people have used the rubber from bungie cords. You can buy solid
> rubber bungie cords with a variety of widths at department stores.
> -
>
> On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 9:25 AM, Don Shankin  wrote:
>
>> Yeah, I will have some pictures up soon.  I'm going to put my website back
>> together sometime this week
>>
>> On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 12:01 AM, Matt  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> > I just made 28 4.25" x 1.5" bogies out of plywood for my Abrams.
>>>
>>> Do you have some pics that you could post? I always like Abrams
>>> projects.
>>>
>>>-Matt
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>> Donald Shankin
>> Computer Engineering Undergrad
>> Blue Marble Security Member
>> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
>> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
>> CAEL Partner
>> (507) 301-2499
>> dtsha...@mtu.edu
>> dshan...@gmail.com
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> >>
>>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Going swimming

[Don Shankin]

Ask, and ye shall receive

http://www.rcnavalcombat.com/RCNavalCombat/

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 11:48 AM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> Why not just look for a website similar to rc tank combat but with
> boats instead.
>
> On Jan 12, 11:46 am, Modena  wrote:
> > I'm thinking of waterproofing my lower hull (and possibly upper hull),
> > skinning bottom and sides with thin (1mm) aluminium and sticking it
> > down with silicone before riveting, has anyone tried this with any
> > success?
> >
> > I'd really like to be able to drive through 6+" deep water
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: track guide question

[Don Shankin]

Yeah, I will have some pictures up soon.  I'm going to put my website back
together sometime this week

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 12:01 AM, Matt  wrote:

>
>
>
> > I just made 28 4.25" x 1.5" bogies out of plywood for my Abrams.
>
> Do you have some pics that you could post? I always like Abrams
> projects.
>
>-Matt
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: track guide question

[Don Shankin]

I just made 28 4.25" x 1.5" bogies out of plywood for my Abrams.  I used my
drill press and a hole saw, and while they're not absolutely perfect,
they're close enough to be used a bogie wheels for sure.  I'm going to line
the wheels with some thin rubber sheeting or something similar to reduce the
wear on them.  If you use a hole saw/drill press, just be sure to set it to
the lowest speed and work really slowly if you're using a large diameter
hole saw bit.

While those wheels on surplus center are cheap, I made almost all of these
wheels from scrap, so I'm happy about that

On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 8:11 PM, Mike Måne  wrote:

> Oh. Could you send some photos? If you already have them, go ahead and use
> them unless you doubt their use.
> -
>
> On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 6:40 PM,  wrote:
>
>>  Mike,
>> I have the 32 plywood wheels.  Just can't decide whether or not to use
>> them.
>> Bob
>>
>>
>>
>>  --
>> *A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
>> steps!
>> *
>>
>>
>>
>> >>
>>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Another busy day, suspension sorted

[Don Shankin]

looks very nice; I love the coil spring set-up.  How did you go about
deciding your spring rate?  Did you just estimate the total weight of the
vehicle and divide that by 16?  Did you plan for specific ground clearance
when fully loaded?  (I'm asking  because I'm about to plan out a suspension
and would like others' thought processes)

Thanks

On Mon, Jan 12, 2009 at 12:04 AM, Modena  wrote:

>
> the preload is adjustable - the top spring seat can be brought lower
> by adding washers which have a larger diameter than the spring
> diameter, this compresses the spring more before adding load, and
> similarly you can add large washers to the lower spring seat to
> "raise" the bottom of the spring.
>
> as it "stands" it has 75mm of ground clearance, I have stood on it,
> and it takes my weight without fully compressing (remember there are
> 16 of those suckers)
>
> piling on 25kg of lead weigh (without me as well) t brought it down
> less than 1cm
>
> I cant be any more precise until I now the battle ready weight, and
> that is way off
>
>
> On Jan 12, 8:50 am, Mike Måne  wrote:
> > I meant the vertical travel. I'm just trying to get ideas for my Newbie
> > Sherman.
> >
> > Another question: With 1.5" - 2" of space, with the springs you used
> > combined with the weight of your tank, how much do you think the
> suspension
> > will flex with the tank immobile? In other word, how far down will the
> body
> > push down on the springs with all its weight---that is, if it does at
> all.
> > The reason why I ask is because I am wondering how one could adjust the
> > spring strength (without buying new ones) in case the weight of the
> vehicle
> > must change.
> >
> > Thanks and good work,
> > -
> >
> >
> >
> > On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 3:42 PM, Modena  wrote:
> >
> > > you mean lateral flex parallel to the ground? its all adjusted pretty
> > > exact with nyloc nuts, there's about 0.5" of space between the lower
> > > chassis rail and the closest piece of the suspension arm
> >
> > > if you mean total travel of the suspension perpendicular to the
> > > ground, 1.5" is about it, it can go to 2" but we get some serious
> > > spring deformation
> >
> > > On Jan 12, 8:31 am, Mike Måne  wrote:
> > > > Nice work, Modena. Are you going to colour the Tiger orange like the
> > > wheel
> > > > hubs? :D By the way, how far (toward the body) can the suspension
> flex
> > > > before reaching the bar--or whatever?
> >
> > > > On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 5:09 AM, Chris Malton 
> > > wrote:
> >
> > > > > Looking very nice.
> >
> > > > > Mine got to that stage, and has now "got stuck" in the track design
> and
> > > > > build stage.  I hope your one doesn't!
> >
> > > > > Chris
> >
> > > > > On 11/01/2009 10:55, Modena wrote:
> > > > > > oh I forgot to add, I hoping I guessed the spring rate correctly,
> as
> > > > > > you can see a 1" bar is enough to cause travel without lifting
> the
> > > > > > chassis, but the whole thing takes my entire weight too when I
> stand
> > > > > > on it (roughly 85kg's)
> >
> > > > > > currently all the springs are the same type, I can adjust the
> > > pre-load
> > > > > > by adding large diameter flat washers to bring the top of the
> spring
> > > > > > closer to the bottom of the spring when the suspension is at
> rest, I
> > > > > > also might need to change to a stiffer spring for front and rear
> > > > > > bogies because they will take more stress from the track wrap
> >
> > > > > > On Jan 11, 9:50 pm, Modena  wrote:
> > > > > >> its a Tiger, and its now rolling! Just not under its own power
> > > yet...
> >
> > > > > >> 16 wheel independant suspension
> >
> > > > > >>http://www.holnet.net/images/tank/20090111/
> >
> > > > > >> I've pretty much decided to do a chain track, I cant find hinges
> the
> > > > > >> exact size I want, and they would cost more than a chain
> solution
> > > too
> >
> > > > > >> On Jan 11, 5:18 pm, "Chrysanthos Kanellopoulos"<
> xchr...@otenet.gr>
> > > > > >> wrote:
> >
> > > > --
> > > > -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
> >
> > --
> > -Mike Måne @http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Starting my own Rc tank for a beginer

[Don Shankin]

IMHO that would be far more trouble than it's worth.  With some searching,
you could probably pick up a good 5 channel radio for just over USD$100.  I
think it would turn out to be a real PITA to do what you're suggesting...
but hey, if you've got the patience and the equipment lying around, more
power to you =)

On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 8:53 PM, Mike Måne  wrote:

> I've been wondering the same thing for controlling via radio, but I've
> avoided buying multi-channel devices that can cause the price to sky-rocket.
> Do you suppose there is any way to combine a few different frequencies
> (maybe 27MHz, 49MHz, etc) salvaged from cheap RC toys and use RC
> potentiometors to remotely control with skid steering? It is definately not
> the most reliable way, but it would be homemade and cheat.
>
> What do you think?
>
> Thanks,
> -
>
> On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Frank Pittelli 
> wrote:
>
>>
>> > On 11/01/2009 04:57, tripp...@gmail.com wrote:
>> >> I am looking for a simple list of all the materials that I need to
>> >> remote control the two 12 volt motors and two servos.If you can
>> >> keep it simple im only 14 and dont exectly know what every thing
>> >> is.
>>
>>
>> The simplest (and cheapest) way to learn about motor control is to build
>>  a "Simple Toggle Control" for each motor as explained in the following
>> article:
>>
>>http://www.rctankcombat.com/articles/speed-control/
>>
>> That only requires a single heavy duty switch and some wiring.  Move the
>> switch one way and the motor goes forward, the other to go backwards and
>> center it to stop.  When you get that working, you can move to the next
>> step.
>>
>> To allow for a longer control line, the next step is to replace each
>> Simple Toggle Control by a pair of inexpensive automotive relays (couple
>> of bucks each) and then use two pushbuttons (or the toggle switch you
>> just replaced) to control those relays.  That keeps all of the motor
>> wiring separate from the control wiring, allowing you to use a much
>> smaller control cable as the remote control.  Each motor still works
>> independently in this arrangement.
>>
>> The next step is to arrange a collection of diodes between the
>> pushbuttons and the relays to create the "Tri-Pact Speed Control".  This
>> allows each of the four buttons to control both motors at the same time,
>> providing forward, reverse, left and right control over the pair of
>> motors.  Diodes are inexpensive as well, so the entire on-off control
>> system with mixing will be less than $20 US.  You can even get a
>> standard 4-way arcade joystick to use as the controller for a couple
>> bucks more.
>>
>> After you've successfully built and tested these basic control systems,
>> you can then start thinking about wireless control, which entails
>> purchasing more expensive gear and either using servos to trip the
>> switches or spending more money to replace the switches and relays by a
>> proportional speed control.
>>
>>Frank P.
>>
>>
>>
>> >>
>>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: location on the map - are you there?

[Don Shankin]

Added myself in Rochester, MN

On Sun, Jan 11, 2009 at 3:00 PM,  wrote:

>  just wondering if any newbees (or oldies) have listed themselves on the
> world map (yet)
>
> http://www.rctankcombat.com/map/
>
> Chris,
> Odyssey Slipways 
>
>
>
> --
> *A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
> steps!
> *
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: M01's - battery current

[Don Shankin]

I'm curious as to where you're getting this battery and how much it's going
to run you.  I will be looking at batteries soon and I haven't come across
any lithium batteries with such a high capacity

On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 10:08 PM, Modena  wrote:

>
> With twin M01's what sort of continuous current draw do I need to
> allow for in my battery system?
>
> I am thinking of buying a 24v 20ah Lithium, and adding another one
> later if run-time is not acceptable.
>
> The ones I have looked at are these kinds of specs:
>
> Voltage: 24 Volts
> Capacity: 20 Amp Hours
> Dimension: 70 x 180 x 280 mm
> Weight: 6.30 kg
> Charging Voltage: 31 Volts
> Charging Current: <5 Amps
> Standard Charging Current: 1.5 Amps, 10 Hours
> Quick Charging Current: 3 Amps, 5 Hours
> Rated Discharging Current: 20 Amps
> Max Continuous Discharging Current: 40 Amps
> Max Discharging Current (Peak): 60 Amps
> Amperage Cut-off Protection: 40 Amps
>
>
> would this be suitable?
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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[TANKS] Re: Track Pads

[Don Shankin]

Seems like that may be a little thin to me, but I'm not really sure what
others are using, so I could be way off

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 10:18 PM,  wrote:

>   In a message dated 1/4/2009 6:54:40 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com writes:
>
> How would plastic pads cope.
>
> why not just use a inner tube from a bike and cut that up? (they do still
> make bikes right?)
>
> Chris,
> Odyssey Slipways 
>
>
>
> --
> New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making 
> headlines
> .
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Track Pads

[Don Shankin]

Didn't feel like it, but it could have been I guess.  I've never seen it
that thick before

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 3:25 PM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> Lino?
>
> On Jan 4, 3:48 pm, Don Shankin  wrote:
> > Im not sure how they'd hold up, but I plan to try them when I make my
> tracks unless I find something more appearing.  My reasoning was that since
> they're floor tiles meant to be walked on for years, they'd be fairly
> durable
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
> callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com>
> > Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 5:54 AM
> > To: R/C Tank Combat 
> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads
> >
> > How would plastic pads cope.
> >
> > On Jan 3, 7:31 pm, "Don Shankin"  wrote:
> > > no, I didn't notice the material, I'll check next time I'm at HD (I've
> been
> > > averaging about one trip/day this past week so it won't be long, lol)
>  It
> > > seemed like it was a stiff vinyl.
> >
> > > On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 11:57 AM, Mike Måne 
> wrote:
> > > > Interesting idea Don. Do you know what material it was?
> >
> > > > On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 12:47 AM, Don Shankin 
> wrote:
> >
> > > >> I was at Home Depot and ran across some individual black flooring
> tiles.
> > > >> They were bendable yet strong, and were only $0.50/each (don't
> remember the
> > > >> size).  They appreared to be 1/8" thick and I was thinking that they
> might
> > > >> make for some decent track pads
> >
> > > >> On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 1:46 PM,
> callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
> > > >> callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > > >>> Less likely to lose pads and less effort to replace lost pads.
> >
> > > >>> On Jan 2, 5:35 pm, "Crooks, Steven M" <
> steven.cro...@usoncology.com>
> > > >>> wrote:
> > > >>> > I was thinking of bolts.
> > > >>> > It would take a little extra effort, but mainly
> > > >>> > I want minimum damage to the ground surface.
> >
> > > >>> > Steven C.
> >
> > > >>> > -Original Message-
> > > >>> > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> >
> > > >>> > [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
> > > >>>  > callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com
> > > >>> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 3:36 AM
> > > >>> > To: R/C Tank Combat
> > > >>> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads
> >
> > > >>> > Bolt the rubber on?
> >
> > > >>> > The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments
> are
> > > >>> confidential, possibly privileged and intended
> > > >>> > for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read,
> disseminate,
> > > >>> retain or otherwise use this message. If
> > > >>> > received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then
> delete
> > > >>> this message without disclosing its contents
> > > >>> > to anyone.
> >
> > > >> --
> > > >> --
> > > >> Donald Shankin
> > > >> Computer Engineering Undergrad
> > > >> Blue Marble Security Member
> > > >> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > >> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > >> CAEL Partner
> > > >> (507) 301-2499
> > > >> dtsha...@mtu.edu
> > > >> dshan...@gmail.com
> > > >> --
> >
> > > >> --
> > > >> -Mike Måne @
> > > >>http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
> >
> > > --
> > > --
> > > Donald Shankin
> > > Computer Engineering Undergrad
> > > Blue Marble Security Member
> > > IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> > > CAEL Partner
> > > (507) 301-2499
> > > dtsha...@mtu.edu
> > > dshan...@gmail.com
> > > --
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Track Pads

[Don Shankin]

Im not sure how they'd hold up, but I plan to try them when I make my tracks 
unless I find something more appearing.  My reasoning was that since they're 
floor tiles meant to be walked on for years, they'd be fairly durable 

-Original Message-
From: callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com 
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 5:54 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads


How would plastic pads cope.

On Jan 3, 7:31 pm, "Don Shankin"  wrote:
> no, I didn't notice the material, I'll check next time I'm at HD (I've been
> averaging about one trip/day this past week so it won't be long, lol)  It
> seemed like it was a stiff vinyl.
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 11:57 AM, Mike Måne  wrote:
> > Interesting idea Don. Do you know what material it was?
>
> > On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 12:47 AM, Don Shankin  wrote:
>
> >> I was at Home Depot and ran across some individual black flooring tiles.
> >> They were bendable yet strong, and were only $0.50/each (don't remember the
> >> size).  They appreared to be 1/8" thick and I was thinking that they might
> >> make for some decent track pads
>
> >> On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 1:46 PM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
> >> callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> >>> Less likely to lose pads and less effort to replace lost pads.
>
> >>> On Jan 2, 5:35 pm, "Crooks, Steven M" 
> >>> wrote:
> >>> > I was thinking of bolts.
> >>> > It would take a little extra effort, but mainly
> >>> > I want minimum damage to the ground surface.
>
> >>> > Steven C.
>
> >>> > -Original Message-
> >>> > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>
> >>> > [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
> >>>  > callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com
> >>> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 3:36 AM
> >>> > To: R/C Tank Combat
> >>> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads
>
> >>> > Bolt the rubber on?
>
> >>> > The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are
> >>> confidential, possibly privileged and intended
> >>> > for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate,
> >>> retain or otherwise use this message. If
> >>> > received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete
> >>> this message without disclosing its contents
> >>> > to anyone.
>
> >> --
> >> --
> >> Donald Shankin
> >> Computer Engineering Undergrad
> >> Blue Marble Security Member
> >> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> >> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> >> CAEL Partner
> >> (507) 301-2499
> >> dtsha...@mtu.edu
> >> dshan...@gmail.com
> >> --
>
> >> --
> >> -Mike Måne @
> >>http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
>
> --
> --
> Donald Shankin
> Computer Engineering Undergrad
> Blue Marble Security Member
> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
> CAEL Partner
> (507) 301-2499
> dtsha...@mtu.edu
> dshan...@gmail.com
> --



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[TANKS] Re: FUBAR tracks

[Don Shankin]

Simply beautiful.  I'm also curious as to how much these weigh per track.

Also, what jigsaw blades are you using (brand?).  I have the same exact
saw... it's nice to know that it's up to such a task

On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 11:59 AM, Crooks, Steven M <
steven.cro...@usoncology.com> wrote:

>  Some bits of FUBAR's tracks, and old betsie, the faithfull $29.95
>
> Jigsaw that cut throught the ½" T6061 Al to make it all possible.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Slowly and surely, they drew up their plans against us….
>
>
>
>
>
>
> The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are 
> confidential, possibly privileged and intended
> for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate, 
> retain or otherwise use this message. If
> received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete this 
> message without disclosing its contents
> to anyone.
>
>
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Track Pads

[Don Shankin]

no, I didn't notice the material, I'll check next time I'm at HD (I've been
averaging about one trip/day this past week so it won't be long, lol)  It
seemed like it was a stiff vinyl.

On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 11:57 AM, Mike Måne  wrote:

> Interesting idea Don. Do you know what material it was?
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Jan 3, 2009 at 12:47 AM, Don Shankin  wrote:
>
>> I was at Home Depot and ran across some individual black flooring tiles.
>> They were bendable yet strong, and were only $0.50/each (don't remember the
>> size).  They appreared to be 1/8" thick and I was thinking that they might
>> make for some decent track pads
>>
>> On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 1:46 PM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
>> callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Less likely to lose pads and less effort to replace lost pads.
>>>
>>> On Jan 2, 5:35 pm, "Crooks, Steven M" 
>>> wrote:
>>> > I was thinking of bolts.
>>> > It would take a little extra effort, but mainly
>>> > I want minimum damage to the ground surface.
>>> >
>>> > Steven C.
>>> >
>>> > -Original Message-
>>> > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
>>> >
>>> > [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
>>>  > callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com
>>> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 3:36 AM
>>> > To: R/C Tank Combat
>>> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads
>>> >
>>> > Bolt the rubber on?
>>> >
>>> > The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are
>>> confidential, possibly privileged and intended
>>> > for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate,
>>> retain or otherwise use this message. If
>>> > received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete
>>> this message without disclosing its contents
>>> > to anyone.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> --
>> Donald Shankin
>> Computer Engineering Undergrad
>> Blue Marble Security Member
>> IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
>> NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
>> CAEL Partner
>> (507) 301-2499
>> dtsha...@mtu.edu
>> dshan...@gmail.com
>> --
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> -Mike Måne @
>> http://moonrcprojects.googlepages.com
>>
>>
>> >>
>>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: Track Pads

[Don Shankin]

I was at Home Depot and ran across some individual black flooring tiles.
They were bendable yet strong, and were only $0.50/each (don't remember the
size).  They appreared to be 1/8" thick and I was thinking that they might
make for some decent track pads

On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 1:46 PM, callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com <
callum.king.underw...@hotmail.com> wrote:

>
> Less likely to lose pads and less effort to replace lost pads.
>
> On Jan 2, 5:35 pm, "Crooks, Steven M" 
> wrote:
> > I was thinking of bolts.
> > It would take a little extra effort, but mainly
> > I want minimum damage to the ground surface.
> >
> > Steven C.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
> >
> > [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of
> > callum.king.underw...@googlemail.com
> > Sent: Thursday, January 01, 2009 3:36 AM
> > To: R/C Tank Combat
> > Subject: [TANKS] Re: Track Pads
> >
> > Bolt the rubber on?
> >
> > The contents of this electronic mail message and any attachments are
> confidential, possibly privileged and intended
> > for the addressee(s) only. Only the addressee(s) may read, disseminate,
> retain or otherwise use this message. If
> > received in error, please immediately inform the sender and then delete
> this message without disclosing its contents
> > to anyone.
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
--

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[TANKS] Re: New builder

[Don Shankin]

Yeah, I'm working with wood.  I've noticed all the angles on the tank and it
should be a very interesting build.  I chose it because I always thought
that the Abrams looked pretty bad-ass

On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 11:22 PM, Matt  wrote:

>
> Another Abrams! Good choice of tank. Three of them recieved their
> designation numbers last year, and pretty soon we will have enough to
> form our own squadron. Are you working with wood or metal? If you work
> with wood, be aware of the number of angles on an Abrams tank. It's
> mind boggling. Good luck though.
>-Matt
>
> On Jan 2, 8:37 am, "Derek Engelhaupt"  wrote:
> > YES!  Another Minnesotan.  I am up in Grand Maraiswell Lutsen.
> > Now I have some incentive to finish installing my marker in my tank.
> > ;)  There have been a few folks in MN on the list here and there, but
> > none of them have actually gotten to the point of having a running
> > chassis like myself (as far as I know).  Not sure if any of them are
> > still on the listserv.  If they are, maybe they will speak up.
> >
> > Derek
> > 1/6 scale Sturmtiger
> >
> >
> >
> > On Fri, Jan 2, 2009 at 10:10 AM,   wrote:
> > > Welcome Aboard!
> >
> > > Chris,
> > > Odyssey Slipways
> >
> > > 
> > > New year...new news. Be the first to know what is making headlines.-
> Hide quoted text -
> >
> > - Show quoted text -
> >
>


-- 
--
Donald Shankin
Computer Engineering Undergrad
Blue Marble Security Member
IEEE Vice Chair, MTU Chapter
NSBE Telecommunications Chair, MTU Chapter
CAEL Partner
(507) 301-2499
dtsha...@mtu.edu
dshan...@gmail.com
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