Re: [TANKS] These funny little flying things

[todjones]

The FAA just ruled on these drones. You have to register them with the FAA (All 
RC planes actually) if they are 1/2 pound or more. Otherwise you are subject to 
a $250,000 fine and 2 years in jail. Even the AMA rules don't allow you to fly 
over people. This would be the first thing I would look into before allowing 
any flying in RC tank battles. 

Tod 
- Original Message -

From: "neroc1"  
To: "R/C Tank Combat"  
Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2016 9:20:18 AM 
Subject: [TANKS] These funny little flying things 

We all know this is "tank combat" and very wonderful it is too. I remember 
threads from some years ago that suggested adding helicopters to the game, this 
was quickly and rightly dismissed partly on the grounds of safety. 

I cant help thinking, what if these funny little flying things (quite safe and 
can now be bought for < $100) could add to our already marvelous hobby, 
A single spare channel could be used to open a simple device to drop a 
paintball one at a time to fall on enemy tanks, I have considered how tanks 
could get payback by storming the enemy home base to take out the control 
factor of the funny little flying thing. (lets call them drones). 

One big O`l problem would be people asking " what do Drones represent in the 
real world? " Well my answer would be "Drones" used by military worldwide. 

I might introduce drones in my school battles to add a very literal new 
dimension to NERF battles. I have seen drones selling at around £70.00 that can 
carry cargo for about 15 minutes on one battery and most importantly can be set 
to slow and steady. such is called `Alias` by a company called `Le Trax`. 
https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t=j==s=web=1=rja=8=0ahUKEwjshfT06I3KAhVEQBQKHc7wC-0QFggdMAA=https%3A%2F%2Flatrax.com%2Fproducts%2Falias=AFQjCNEUZld1GxsVSEyPopsx8Hy11jgI0Q
 

I have also seen much more sophisticated drones costing up to £3,000.00 
I imagine I will find out the extra problems involved with flying things in a 
battle if and when it occurs. 

Does anyone have a view on this subject ? 



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Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha

[todjones]

I took the drawings to my local metal supply shop and had them cut it out for 
me. The 1/6 Abrams hull and turret in 20 gage steel was only about $40. 
  
Tod 

- Original Message -

From: j chilton jc22...@gmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 12:54:31 PM 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha 

when people cut their pieces of metal to the proper size for their tanks, what 
kind of tools are most commonly used? 

  

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Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha

[todjones]

No lasers in this shop. All old fashioned machinery. All of the parts were 
basic straight cuts. Nothing fancy on an Abrams. 
  
Tod 

- Original Message -

From: Frank Pittelli frank.pitte...@gmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, December 24, 2014 2:28:20 PM 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Chi Ha 

My guess is that they cut the metal sheets with a good old fashioned 
press made before World War II :-) 

On 12/24/2014 1:51 PM, loic Anthian wrote: 
 $40 for a full laser cut of a 1/6^th scale Abrams! I need to know the 
 address of that shop… It does not seem like the metal was even that 
 cheap when I cut my lower hull of the same tank. 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch

[todjones]

Some remotes Like the Spectrum remotes have full channel failsafe. This means 
that at low battery voltage or loss of radio signal they will go to the 
failsafe position on all channels. This could be used to kill the tank in these 
situations. They also make an add on failsafe to control 1 channel. these are 
usually used to kill the throttle on RC cars so they don't run away when they 
run out of radio range or low battery. 
  
Tod 

- Original Message -

From: Jacob jacobweber2...@hotmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, November 16, 2014 11:53:25 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Remote kill switch 

This is where a league rules have to be determined as to how many tanks are to 
be in a battle.  Its not hard to come up with a remote control, 10 or 12 
channel switch, that could be individually installed into each tank (up to 12 
tanks)..  Here is a 12 channel remote control: 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC12V-12Channel-Relay-RF-Switch-Remote-Control-Transmitter-Receiver-315MHz-/151373480251?pt=Home_Automation_Controls_Touchscreenshash=item233e90013b
 

On Friday, November 7, 2014 9:50:26 AM UTC-7, TyngTech wrote: 



This is something I'd like to see but it needs to be expanded to a global 
remote to kill all tanks in an event.  Though our tanks are supposed to have 
external kill switches, the fact is that I doubt any of our battlers could 
easily shut their vehicles down (manually) while it was running full bore over 
uneven ground.  I know I'd have an issue killing an errant Cromwell. 

ST 


On Wednesday, August 13, 2014 10:22:51 PM UTC-4, Replicant wrote: 
blockquote

Long time lurker here. I thought this was an interesting idea. Not exactly how 
viable it is with all the radio controls and interference.  

Remote Kill Switch 

Christopher 'lots of ideas yet to start' Crabb  




/blockquote




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Re: [TANKS] Re: GoPro live wireless feed

[todjones]

Anything with a video output can be wirelessly transmitted end received. We do 
this all the time with planes and other flying platforms. 
Tod 

- Original Message -

From: TyngTech steve...@gmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, October 2, 2014 7:27:21 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: GoPro live wireless feed 

http://www.fatshark.com/ 


On Thursday, October 2, 2014 5:10:45 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote: 


i was told at the last tank battle that you can't get live wireless video feed 
from a GoPro camera. now i don't know if that pertained to the GP1, 2 or 3 but 
i jut saw some with a quad copter on the side of the active volcano in Iceland 
and he was getting live feed from is GP3. right next to him was a small monitor 
that he was looking through for visual reference and it looked like some sort 
of wi-fi dvice strapped to the back of it. 
  
so there has to be some way of getting the live feed like he did 
  
chris 






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Re: [TANKS] Re: Why not brushless motors??

[todjones]

According to Wikipedia, 
  

In 1939 the U.S. Army, which had already been using Continental R-670 radial 
engines in its light tanks , chose Continental Motors to build the R-975 under 
license as the engine for its M2 medium tanks . Subsequently, the same engine 
was selected for the M3 Lee medium tank, the M4 Sherman medium tank, the 
Canadian Ram tank , the M7 Priest self-propelled gun , the M18 Hellcat tank 
destroyer , and other Allied armored vehicles based on these. Continental 
versions of the R-975 for armored vehicles included the R-975E-C2, the 
R-975-C1, and the R-975-C4. Continental built over 53,000 R-975 engines for 
armored vehicles, far more than were ever built by Wright. [ 2 ] 


There is a long history of putting engines designed for aircraft in tanks and 
armoured vehicles.The brushless outrunner type have massive amounts of torque 
and run at a lot lower speeds than your normal inrunners. I use 2 outrunner 
motors in my super class rock crawler. 
Tod 

Aeroplane engine in a tank???   Yes, and my mext tank will be a Centurion. The 
tank that the Danish army had when i was a soldier in the late seventies.

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Designation for a plastic Stuart

[todjones]

We ha ve one on consignment at the hooby shop I work at for $200 it is all 
there except the box. 

Tod 



- Original Message -


From: Fred Thomson f...@thomson-online.org 
To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:31:31 AM 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Designation for a plastic Stuart 

How much are they? 

On Feb 8, 2:22 pm, Stu teddyascame...@live.com wrote: 
 If I'm willing to let it get shot at, would I get a designator just for 
 having a rolling 21st Cent Stuart? 
 (Sadly enough, it wasn't even rolling the last time you saw it.) 
 
 I may be picking up three more plastic Stuarts this weekend... does anybody 
 else want one? 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Best place to get Paint ball guns from ??

[todjones]

I went to my local paintball / surplus shop. They had used tippmans for $25. 
They were used as rentals so they had cosmetic damage but they work good. 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection

[todjones]

Try macinerycenter.com. We have bought used macines from them with good 
results. I work  at a plant with 24 injecton machines ranging from 75 to 400 
tons. I keep up and do changeovers to 45 molds with 2 - 96 cavitys each. 

Tod 

- Original Message -


From: TyngTech steve...@gmail.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2012 12:22:16 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: looking to step up to plastic injection 

I know the type of machine your talking about.  I used to operate one at my 
first job (molding electrical connector housings).  I imagine a small used 
injection molder could be found cheap, probably for scrap value.  The issue is 
tooling costs.  When I built the first TTS and had started my know defunct 
website selling tank parts.  I looked into injection molding TTS track pads.  I 
was getting estimates of 6 to 10K to produce the tooling.  I dropped the idea 
at that point. 


One thing I learned from my retail experiment.  Prospective R/C Combat tank 
builders are the cheapest bunch of SOB's on the planet  :-)   Selling to 
this group is no way to an early retirement! 


Steve Tyng 



On Tuesday, July 24, 2012 11:32:36 PM UTC-4, odyssey...@aol.com wrote: 



Some of you who know something about me, know i do work with resin castings and 
produce sci-fi kits. Recently i have begun to look into stepping things up, 
taking me from resin kits to styrene kits (or at least some of them), but i am 
also looking at other things such as tank related parts :) 
  
I know i can't do everything (producing useable parts that everyone could use 
for every tank), but i could start to do some. 
  
The plastic injectors i am looking at all have a mold size of about 3 square 
but might know someone that might be able to do mold blocks up to 6 (still 
have to talk more to them about some parts). 
  
at first i was thinking of using regular styrene , but thought i'd need to add 
some sleeves into the links to help prevent wear, but then starting looking 
into some harder materials that i might be able to use (still checking) such as 
nylon. they would hold up much better than regular styrene, and i don't think 
they would need any kind of sleeve cast into them but think there is a possible 
draw-back  -  not being able to be painted (unless someone out there know's 
otherwise). 
  
another limitation is the amount of material required to make a part, the 
injectors i am looking at have a limit of 1 oz of material (think that's 
liquid, not weight), so some parts might be out of the question to make - for 
now. 
  
if the other person would be willing to make some of the bigger parts for me, 
those i think would be some road wheels and sprocket wheels - oh, while i'm 
thinking of road wheels, there is a material that is used to make rubber like 
gaskets that i was thinking of for making the rubber tires for the road wheels, 
but haven't obtained a sample of it yet to see if it really is closer to 
rubber, if so, we have rubber tires (again, limited only by size and volume of 
material needed). the sprockets i thought could be done in nylon as well as i 
think that would hold up fairly well but still need to work out the hubs to 
mount them to and the mounting them to the drive shafts (and hope they don't 
break) 
  
the parts would be in 1:6 scale 
  
as to the tanks i am thinking of looking into for partsbut would have to do 
research to see if the track links would be feasible to make and use 
  
Tiger (but of course, I have one) 
  
Sherman (i have no real knowledge of them so i don't know if one track fits 
all) 
  
Abram (not 100% sure as i don't know if there are any real variants of the tank 
or just the one, again, i have no knowledge of this tank). 
  
Stug 
  
as it's still several months away before i can think about getting an injector, 
i do know i'll be getting one, so i might as well start looking into other 
subjects that i can do using the injector. 
  
I don't want anyone to think that these would be a cheap things to buy as i 
have been pricing nylon and it's a few dollars a pound for it and the molds 
could cost me $500 - $1500 on up. 
  
now parts such as hatches and such would be made out of styrene, this way they 
can be easily painted along with the rest of your tank. 
  
the nylon parts (if i can get everything worked out) i wanted to see about 
maybe trying for 4 colors, black, light gray, medium gray and dark gray. i was 
sort of leaning towards the gray as i thought if they could be painted and the 
paint were to wear off, the gray could sort of be a bare steel color (or i 
could look into an orange brown for a rust color if i could get custom colors 
somehow). 
  
oh and the road and idle wheels that i do make, i plan to make them to 
accept bearings (i think i can get a good supply of them so i could include 
them with each wheel and also as replacement parts). 
  
i would even consider a generic track design 
  
if i can get things to all work out, 

Re: [TANKS] connector removal

[todjones]

There is usually a catch that can be released with a small screwdriver. It 
inserts from the wire side. 

Tod 



- Original Message -


From: Neil Rochford funkyne...@ntlworld.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, June 17, 2012 3:15:54 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] connector removal 

Does anyone know how to remove these connectors without destroying them so it 
can be used again please ? 
is there a trick to it that I just dont get  ? 


Neil R  

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ?

[todjones]

I have used one for years with no trouble at all. I haven't had any trouble 
with them turning off. I f anything they stay on longer than the arc does. They 
even darken when grinding and the sparks fly. 

- Original Message -
From: Neil Rochford funkyne...@ntlworld.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Cc: pilo...@comcast.net 
Sent: Wednesday, February 1, 2012 6:03:53 PM 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Could someone help me with this please ? 

Well actually yes i have thought about buying an auto darken shield, however 
reading that they can turn off has put me off them a little (or maybe a lot). 



Neil  I`ll just get the girlfriend to tell me when Im about 3 mm off R  

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Re: [TANKS] affordable, reliable RC unit

[todjones]

I would reccomend the dx5e. it has 5 channels and v tail mixing. It is 2.4ghz 
spread spectrum so no channel conflicts. At $59.99 it is a great deal. 
http://www.horizonhobby.com/products/dx5e-5ch-full-range-transmitter-receiver-only-md1-SPM55001
 




Hello, with the holidays coming soon I want to put a radio control 
unit on my wish list. Okay really the only item on it. lol 
Any suggestions on one that is not very costly and easy to set up? 
Thanks everyone 

Stewart 

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Re: [TANKS] track talk

[todjones]

I think you are missing at least one zero. $250,000 would buy one of the 
smaller cap molds that I work on. I dont think a 1/6 scale hull would fit into 
a 14x20x12.5 injection mold. Rotomolding or a precut kit would be more 
resonable. 

Tod 



The molds are not cheap 
For a 1/6th scale hull you are probably looking at a 25 thousand dollar mold 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Gettysburg

[todjones]

Eww! That would get nasty fast. I hope you at least wash them. ;-) 

This is the great thing about living in the UK; The weather never 
makes a serious attempt at killing you. 

I like being able to wear the same clothes all year round . . . 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: Mid-Atlantic Spring Battle

[todjones]

The jeep is a Nylint rock crawler and should work  ok. The stuart is going to 
need many mods to work but will be a good place to start. If the tracks break 
it will make a great target. 

Tod 



Good luck with converting the 21st Century Stuart... I think Will did that one 
time I will be looking forward to see what you use for tracks The stock 
tracks don’t play well in Pea Gravel... Likes to break... 

Is that a Nylint (spelling?) Jeep ??? It is looking pretty sharp... Would look 
even better in a Desert environment (like Vegas ) 

Kurt (too many projects, to little skill) G 

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Re: [TANKS] turret rotation

[todjones]

I bought 5 12 inch ones off of Ebay for less than 1 at woodcraft. I bought 5 
for about $25 buy it now and free shipping. 

Tod 



Go to the Woodcraft site here, 
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2001061/573/Lazy-Susan-12-516-Thick-Capacit 
y-1000-lbs.aspx 
They have all sizes of lazy susans. 
Still making my M1A1 1/6 and its huge, problem I have is the turret 
rotation, many others have used a lazy susan but my turret will be to large 
for it, looking for a dia of about 12 any suggestions? 

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Re: [TANKS] Memorial day

[todjones]

I didn't drive tanks But I did serve on the USS Frederick LST 1184. 

Tod. 



Today is Memorial day, here in the states.  Just wondering how many 
vets we got on here besides me. 

Any actual tankers? 

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Re: [TANKS] progress so far day 3

[todjones]

Nice work! 

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Re: [TANKS] Memorial day

[todjones]

Thank all vets for their service. Freedom isn't free. Vets gave the government 
a blank check payable up to and including their lives. Some payed all. 

Tod 

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Re: [TANKS] Paint Ball marker

[todjones]

I went to the local paintball store. I was able to pick up 2 guns and a lot of 
exteras for about $100. I told them what Iwanted them for and they were verry 
helpfull. 

Tod 


- Original Message - 
From: Andy_Basildon andrewde...@ymail.com 
To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Monday, May 23, 2011 5:03:29 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] Paint Ball marker 

I am making for the first time a M1A1 Abrams 1/6th scale, wood 
construction and will be posting my efforts so far soon but in the 
mean time I need to get a paint ball marker, my question is this - 
where can I get a cheap paint ball marker gun, the prices seem way out 
of my league! 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: tank pics

[todjones]

I found a set of drawings on the net that I'm building mine from. If you want a 
set of them I can send you the zip file with them. It is about 3megs. 

Tod 
- Original Message - 
From: cirdna www.and...@live.com 
To: R/C Tank Combat rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 19, 2011 6:00:17 PM 
Subject: [TANKS] Re: tank pics 


yeah fortunatly im in the last 3 weeks of school as a junior in 
highschool so i have quite a bit of time on my hands. ive been trying 
to find the dimensions of the m1a2 but it just aint happenin they keep 
that crap top secret ive looked forever for it... but yeah ive gotten 
a bit of this stuff done i spend on average either looking for stuff 
for my tank or buying stuff for my tank. i wanted the m1a2 model to be 
outfitted with an attachment chain riggup but i cant find any thing 
that wont absolutly break my wallet. yeah i got the 6 channel radio to 
allow myself to rig up a smoke canister launcher i thought that would 
be cool. and i got the 450w cuz i like power... 

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Re: [TANKS] Re: servos

[todjones]

1/4 scale refers to the size of the servo nothing more. You can easily get a 
standard size servo with more torque and speed than a 1/4 scale servo. I use 
standard size servos in a rock crawler that are rated at 480 inch Oz torque and 
.12 seconds for 60 deg. This is more than most 1/4 scale servos. 

Tod 


Are they in the 1/4 scale category? 

I have been shopping at Hobbyking.com and the like. 
http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=X%2DLarge+Servo+50g%2BidCategory=291ParentCat=189
 


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Re: [TANKS] Re: T064 wheelchair control

[todjones]

All of the spectrum recievers have this function. It remembers the positions of 
all of the channels when you bind it to the radio. Another feature is there 
is no difference between air and ground frequencys on 2.4 Ghz. 





`The Out of range safety is the radio reciever that returns the servos 
to cebter on loss 
of signal`   ( b is next to n :) ) 

I have never uncounted a receiver that has such a function , very 
impressive .what make and model is this radio ? 

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Re: [TANKS] Servos

[todjones]

Servos only do what the transmitter tels them what to do. If you put a servo on 
a self centering stick the servo will also be self centering. 2 stick radios 
usually have one stick that is not self centering in one direction so it can 
easily be used as a throttle. Mode 1 transmitters have it on the right and mode 
2 have it on the left. You can also get one that has both sticks non 
centering. Most radios sold in America are mode 2 but you can order 
either. Most higher end transmitters have dials, sliders or both, these can 
be used to make a servo go to any position and stop where you leave it. 



Tod 










From: Cobra9431  afreem...@live.com  
To: R/C Tank Combat  rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  
Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 12:23:45 AM 
Subject: [TANKS] Servos 




I have a question concerning servos. Do servos automaticaly reset back 
to a neutral position everytime, or are there models that remain in 
place? ie. when I elevate my barrel will it stay in place or will it 
automaticly lower back down? I know it's a silly a question, but my RC 
experience may acttualy be at the negitive spectrum end. 
Any recomendations on where to get and what servo to get for my marker 
elevator? I understand that many also recomend a door actuator over a 
sevro for the trigger depressor. 
Any input would be welcome. Thank you. 

Aaron F 












From: Cobra9431  afreem...@live.com  
To: R/C Tank Combat  rctankcombat@googlegroups.com  
Sent: Thu, August 5, 2010 12:23:45 AM 
Subject: [TANKS] Servos 




I have a question concerning servos. Do servos automaticaly reset back 
to a neutral position everytime, or are there models that remain in 
place? ie. when I elevate my barrel will it stay in place or will it 
automaticly lower back down? I know it's a silly a question, but my RC 
experience may acttualy be at the negitive spectrum end. 
Any recomendations on where to get and what servo to get for my marker 
elevator? I understand that many also recomend a door actuator over a 
sevro for the trigger depressor. 
Any input would be welcome. Thank you. 

Aaron F 

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Re: [TANKS] where to buy tredmill tred.

[todjones]

I have had good luck on freecycle.org 





I want build a modified version of the tts for my sherman. Where should i buy 
the treadmill tred from? 

Ryan P. 


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Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios

[todjones]

Spektrum radios and servos are sold by horizon hobbies. 

horizonhobbies.com 

 Tod Jones 


- Original Message - 
From: Thomas Lum t...@me.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 2010 10:43:44 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern 
Subject: RE: [TANKS] spektrum radios 

Honestly, I didn't know spektrum made servos.  Servos come from a lot of 
manufacturers, Hitec, Futaba, Hobbico, Tower Hobbies, and more that I am 
forgetting.  I'm not saying a Spektrum servo isn't what you want but you may 
want to check out tower hobbies website and get a feel for all the options out 
there.  I think they also have a few guides as to how all the components link 
and work together, it can be confusing when starting out but it's fairly 
straight forward once you get a handle on it.
Tom 

Where can you find analog spektrum servo? 

Ryan P. 


  

From: t...@me.com 
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com 
Subject: Re: [TANKS] spektrum radios 
Date: Thu, 13 May 2010 19:33:12 -0400 


Sounds like you need a lot of questions answered about rc gear.  The receiver 
will work off of usually the speed controller in your vehicle. If you need to, 
you can just use regular batteries since the rx (receiver) doesn't draw a lot 
of power.  Most servos will work directly by plugging them into the rx, 
digitals included.  A servo programmer is usually used for precise control to 
set the end points and throw and speed of throw for each servo, like for rc 
jets or some high detail scale models, usually not tanks. 


Now a question for you, do you NEED digital servos?  Usually they are needed 
for airplanes or helis that need constant adjustment and position sensing.  
Might find an analog servo of similar specs for 1/3 if the cost.  


I'm no expert but that's what I've pick up for running rc for a while.  




On May 13, 2010, at 6:13 PM, ryan wells  rpw...@hotmail.com  wrote: 





If I get the optional receiver with the spektrum 5 channel transmitter do i 
need to buy a rechargeable battery for the receiver? Will i need to buy a 
charger for that battery? Will spektrum digital servos work with the optional 
reveiver? Do i need to buy a servo programer? Please answer these ASAP. 

Ryan P. 



Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your 
inbox. See how. 
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Re: [TANKS] Re: M1A1 Abrams -- Wide Open Spaces

[todjones]

Just a little history on the reason for the Tank terminoligy. 

1915 Feb. 22 - Churchill created the Admiralty Landships Committee chaired by 
sub expert Tennyson d'Eynecourt, and included Commander Briggs and the 
brilliant engineer Lt. Wilson. Work began at the William Foster Company by a 
team of engineers led by Wilson. The Company manager at Lincoln, William 
Tritton, made a significant contribution by modifying the caterpillar tread 
patented in 1901 by Alvin Lombard and used on farm tractors in America by 
Benjamin Holt. The team by Aug. made the first prototype, Little Willie, and 
a second prototype Mother that had a rhomboid shape. These early models were 
known as centipedes or landships. 

1915 Sept. 6 - The British tested the first prototype, Little Willie built by 
the William Foster Company. The improved version called Big Willie performed 
successfully and 100 production models were ordered. The Royal Naval Division 
began to train 700 men as crews (a naval term) for the landships, as they 
were first called, and were formed into the Heavy Branch of the Machine Gun 
Corps in the Royal Naval Divison. The crews gave naval terms to the parts of 
the tank: hatches, hull, bows, bulkheads, fore, and aft. 

1916 Jan. 28 - The Landships Committee met to make plans for production models, 
and selected the name tank for the models. The Mark I (male) had a 6-lb 
Hotchkiss canon in each of the side postoons, and the Mark I (female) had 
machine guns. Each tank weighed 28 tons and could travel at 2-4 mph. The first 
50 would be sent to Gen. Haig in France. Workers at the Foster Company 
stencilled obscure names on the shipping crates to keep the contents secret, 
including the term water carriers bound for Mesopotamia. 

http://history.sandiego.edu/gen/ww1/tank.html 

Tod (ex-Navy)  ;-) 


Doesn't surprise me, Clark.  Although, I've never accused any of my Marine 
friends of being smart... :)  Sorry, couldn't resist. 

Derek (ex-Army) 
T065 


On Sat, Feb 27, 2010 at 10:02 PM, Clark Ward Jr  ki4...@gmail.com  wrote: 


Might just be a Marine thing, but we referred to port and stbd sides 
of our LAVs...  but when discussing identifying characteristics of 
target vehicles, we would refer to their right and left (i.e. 'driver 
sits left front' when referring to a particular tank, etc..)  And when 
driving, the VC would tell you to turn left or right :) 

-- 
Clark in Georgia 




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