Re: [Repeater-Builder] 1p controller
Thanks all for the responses,Lance has sent me the files I needed.73,Lee Charles Schmell wrote: > Kris: Email me direct, I will forward you copy of the > Word file for the manual - I'm new, but assume > attachments are not allowed on this list. > > Charles, [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > --- Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >>On Sun, 13 Nov 2005, Q wrote: >> >>>Anyone know a link to or have programming info for >> >>the 1P controller? >> >>>TIA,73,Lee >> >>Not really. You might contact B and D Enterprises, >>but they no longer sell >>the 1P. >> >>-- >>Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 1p controller
Kris: Email me direct, I will forward you copy of the Word file for the manual - I'm new, but assume attachments are not allowed on this list. Charles, [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Sun, 13 Nov 2005, Q wrote: > > Anyone know a link to or have programming info for > the 1P controller? > > TIA,73,Lee > > Not really. You might contact B and D Enterprises, > but they no longer sell > the 1P. > > -- > Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >"BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING > YOU!" > This message brought to you by the US Department of > Homeland Security > and the now-permanent PATRIOT > Act > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > > __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 1p controller
Boyd is in the process of relocation. He should be back up and running with the 1p after a time (as with all his other products). You might ask around to find another group member with a 1P or just drop Boyd an Email and he will probably get back to you in time. cheers, skipp > Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > On Sun, 13 Nov 2005, Q wrote: > > Anyone know a link to or have programming info for the 1P controller? > > TIA,73,Lee > > Not really. You might contact B and D Enterprises, but they no longer sell > the 1P. > > -- > Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >"BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU!" > This message brought to you by the US Department of Homeland Security > and the now-permanent PATRIOT Act > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 1p controller
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005, Q wrote: > Anyone know a link to or have programming info for the 1P controller? > TIA,73,Lee Not really. You might contact B and D Enterprises, but they no longer sell the 1P. -- Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> "BIG BROTHER IS WATCHING YOU!" This message brought to you by the US Department of Homeland Security and the now-permanent PATRIOT Act Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Boonton makes some nice instruments. Just make sure the RF probe comes with it (they plug in and are often not included), and that the unit is guaranteed to be working. You don't need to measure the exact amplitude, you only need to detect the peak and dips as you tune the filter coils. The stations can be set up to repeat, do CW ID, and even time out, if programmed correctly. On/off control is the primary item you'll need to provide from the outside world, and I don't think there was an easy way to do it (i.e. they didn't just give you a signal you could ground to disable the transmitter). I found it was just easier to do everything with an external controller, and this gave me the ability to put in an audio delay module at the same time. However, I will say that the interfacing is not as simple as plugging something in and running with it; significant technical prowess would be required to do the job successfully. My station was a CXB that programs with a PC and RSS, so changing parameters is a whole lot easier. Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The unit that I got is the Boontoon RF > Millivoltmeter Model 92E. Looks like it should > cover what I need it to do. Thanks for the help, > when it gets here, I am certain I will have more > questions until this repeater is up and fucntional, > and then comes the fun of tying in an outbord > controller for the unit. Thanks. > > Mathew > > > "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > There will be some loss in the filter (maybe 0.5dB > per > section), and about 30dB loss when using the tuning > probe. If you're feeding in 223mV (0dBm), you would > probably measure -30dBm using the RF voltmeter > connected to the tuning probe, when the filter is > fully peaked. This is around 7mV. However, even when > the coil is mis-tuned, you'll still get some > indication with the proper meter. It'll be harder to > see with a spectrum analyzer because of its low > impedance input. > > I use an old HP3406A sampling (RF) voltmeter. They > show up on eBay once in a while, but you can't get > parts for them any more, so if it doesn't work, it's > difficult to repair unless a common part has failed. > > Mike (ILQ) please contact me. > > Bob M. > == > --- Mathew Quaife wrote: > > > Hi Mike, did a little research and found one in > > Chicago. I knew about the SM, just never thought > of > > one being outside the SM. So should have one here > > in a few days, and then get back to working on the > > repeater. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > Mike Morris wrote: > > At 05:13 AM 11/13/05, you wrote: > > > > >Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for > > the filter, it tells me > > >to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and > > insert a 225 mV signal > > >into the the output of the post filter. I did > this, > > and get nothing on > > >the meter at all. > > > > It takes a LOT of level to force a signal past a > > detuned filter. > > > > >Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between > > my RS Volt-Ohm meter and > > >an RF millivoltmeter. > > > > Your RS VOM does have an AC mode, but I'd be > > surprised > > if it responds to frequencies above 100khz. If it > > responds to > > 447MHZ RF at all, I'd be very, very surprised... > > > > An RF millivoltmeter is just that - a meter that > > reads at RF > > frequencies down to the millivolt (and frequently > > microvolt) > > levels. > > > > If you think about it a service monitor and a > > spectrum analyzer > > both have the function as RF millivoltmeters... > when > > you measure > > receiver sensitivity you are injecting a low level > > RF signal into the > > receiver, and the RF millivolt / microvolt meter > > section is reading > > the result. > > > > Mike WA6ILQ __ Yahoo! Mail - PC Magazine Editors' Choice 2005 http://mail.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] repeater antenna connection
thanks for info..Kerry - Original Message - From: "Joe" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2005 6:08 PM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] repeater antenna connection > Yes, here is a product called STUF. Look at: > http://www.wavehunter.com/ > and look for informaton for "Stuf Dielectric WaterProofing Filler" > My company tried this product on an 800MHZ system with terrible results. > Poor return loss readings, loose connectors after time, were some of the > problems. Your results may vary. > > 73, Joe, K1ike > >> > Is there anything that can be applied to the >> > inside of an antenna connection to prevent corrosion >> > and oxidation?Kerry - WA2NAN - >> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> >> >> >> __ >> Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. >> http://farechase.yahoo.com >> >> >> >> >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tait Repeater
Paul Finch wrote: > Hello, > > Anyone out there familiar with a small private labeled Standard repeater > that was actually built by Tait I believe. It is in two small caskets about > 2" high, 6" wide and 10" long (2X6X8 inches. It is really a stout built > cabinet system. Inside the transmitter and receiver are both programmed > with a prom, looks to be a 27C64 or so. I have no documentation on this > unit and need to get it running for a friend. > > Let me know if you recognize the repeater or know how to program. I can > edit the binary file if needed. > > Thanks, > Paul > Paul, Those are Tait T800 series 1 radios. If it is UHF, the receiver is a T855 and the transmitter is a T856. They came in 400-440 and 440-480 splits and either narrow or wide dev. They make nice low power repeaters, but be careful with the TX as it has no heatsink and can get way too hot if it is ran at high power and high duty cycle. Contact me off list if you need more info. Ed Yoho WA6RQD Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] 1p controller
Anyone know a link to or have programming info for the 1P controller? TIA,73,Lee Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
The unit that I got is the Boontoon RF Millivoltmeter Model 92E. Looks like it should cover what I need it to do. Thanks for the help, when it gets here, I am certain I will have more questions until this repeater is up and fucntional, and then comes the fun of tying in an outbord controller for the unit. Thanks. Mathew "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: There will be some loss in the filter (maybe 0.5dB persection), and about 30dB loss when using the tuningprobe. If you're feeding in 223mV (0dBm), you wouldprobably measure -30dBm using the RF voltmeterconnected to the tuning probe, when the filter isfully peaked. This is around 7mV. However, even whenthe coil is mis-tuned, you'll still get someindication with the proper meter. It'll be harder tosee with a spectrum analyzer because of its lowimpedance input.I use an old HP3406A sampling (RF) voltmeter. Theyshow up on eBay once in a while, but you can't getparts for them any more, so if it doesn't work, it'sdifficult to repair unless a common part has failed.Mike (ILQ) please contact me.Bob M.==--- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:> Hi Mike, did a little research and found one in> Chicago. I knew about the SM, just never thought of> one being outside the SM. So should have one here> in a few days, and then get back to working on the> repeater.> > Mathew> > > Mike Morris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>wrote:> At 05:13 AM 11/13/05, you wrote:> > >Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for> the filter, it tells me > >to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and> insert a 225 mV signal > >into the the output of the post filter. I did this,> and get nothing on > >the meter at all.> > It takes a LOT of level to force a signal past a> detuned filter.> > >Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between> my RS Volt-Ohm meter and > >an RF millivoltmeter.> > Your RS VOM does have an AC mode, but I'd be> surprised> if it responds to frequencies above 100khz. If it> responds to> 447MHZ RF at all, I'd be very, very surprised...> > An RF millivoltmeter is just that - a meter that> reads at RF> frequencies down to the millivolt (and frequently> microvolt)> levels.> > If you think about it a service monitor and a> spectrum analyzer> both have the function as RF millivoltmeters... when> you measure> receiver sensitivity you are injecting a low level> RF signal into the> receiver, and the RF millivolt / microvolt meter> section is reading> the result.> > Mike WA6ILQ__ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click.http://farechase.yahoo.comYahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] repeater antenna connection
Yes, here is a product called STUF. Look at: http://www.wavehunter.com/ and look for informaton for "Stuf Dielectric WaterProofing Filler" My company tried this product on an 800MHZ system with terrible results. Poor return loss readings, loose connectors after time, were some of the problems. Your results may vary. 73, Joe, K1ike > > Is there anything that can be applied to the > > inside of an antenna connection to prevent corrosion > > and oxidation?Kerry - WA2NAN - > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > > __ > Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. > http://farechase.yahoo.com > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
There will be some loss in the filter (maybe 0.5dB per section), and about 30dB loss when using the tuning probe. If you're feeding in 223mV (0dBm), you would probably measure -30dBm using the RF voltmeter connected to the tuning probe, when the filter is fully peaked. This is around 7mV. However, even when the coil is mis-tuned, you'll still get some indication with the proper meter. It'll be harder to see with a spectrum analyzer because of its low impedance input. I use an old HP3406A sampling (RF) voltmeter. They show up on eBay once in a while, but you can't get parts for them any more, so if it doesn't work, it's difficult to repair unless a common part has failed. Mike (ILQ) please contact me. Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi Mike, did a little research and found one in > Chicago. I knew about the SM, just never thought of > one being outside the SM. So should have one here > in a few days, and then get back to working on the > repeater. > > Mathew > > > Mike Morris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 05:13 AM 11/13/05, you wrote: > > >Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for > the filter, it tells me > >to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and > insert a 225 mV signal > >into the the output of the post filter. I did this, > and get nothing on > >the meter at all. > > It takes a LOT of level to force a signal past a > detuned filter. > > >Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between > my RS Volt-Ohm meter and > >an RF millivoltmeter. > > Your RS VOM does have an AC mode, but I'd be > surprised > if it responds to frequencies above 100khz. If it > responds to > 447MHZ RF at all, I'd be very, very surprised... > > An RF millivoltmeter is just that - a meter that > reads at RF > frequencies down to the millivolt (and frequently > microvolt) > levels. > > If you think about it a service monitor and a > spectrum analyzer > both have the function as RF millivoltmeters... when > you measure > receiver sensitivity you are injecting a low level > RF signal into the > receiver, and the RF millivolt / microvolt meter > section is reading > the result. > > Mike WA6ILQ __ Yahoo! FareChase: Search multiple travel sites in one click. http://farechase.yahoo.com Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Hi Mike, did a little research and found one in Chicago. I knew about the SM, just never thought of one being outside the SM. So should have one here in a few days, and then get back to working on the repeater. Mathew Mike Morris <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: At 05:13 AM 11/13/05, you wrote:>Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for the filter, it tells me >to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV signal >into the the output of the post filter. I did this, and get nothing on >the meter at all.It takes a LOT of level to force a signal past a detuned filter.>Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS Volt-Ohm meter and >an RF millivoltmeter.Your RS VOM does have an AC mode, but I'd be surprisedif it responds to frequencies above 100khz. If it responds to447MHZ RF at all, I'd be very, very surprised...An RF millivoltmeter is just that - a meter that reads at RFfrequencies down to the millivolt (and frequently microvolt)levels.If you think about it a service monitor and a spectrum analyzerboth have the function as RF millivoltmeters... when you measurereceiver sensitivity you are injecting a low level RF signal into thereceiver, and the RF millivolt / microvolt meter section is readingthe result.Mike WA6ILQYahoo! Groups Links<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:[EMAIL PROTECTED]<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ Yahoo! FareChase - Search multiple travel sites in one click. YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "Repeater-Builder" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
At 05:13 AM 11/13/05, you wrote: >Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for the filter, it tells me >to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV signal >into the the output of the post filter. I did this, and get nothing on >the meter at all. It takes a LOT of level to force a signal past a detuned filter. >Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS Volt-Ohm meter and >an RF millivoltmeter. Your RS VOM does have an AC mode, but I'd be surprised if it responds to frequencies above 100khz. If it responds to 447MHZ RF at all, I'd be very, very surprised... An RF millivoltmeter is just that - a meter that reads at RF frequencies down to the millivolt (and frequently microvolt) levels. If you think about it a service monitor and a spectrum analyzer both have the function as RF millivoltmeters... when you measure receiver sensitivity you are injecting a low level RF signal into the receiver, and the RF millivolt / microvolt meter section is reading the result. Mike WA6ILQ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] motorola power supply
ok Q let me check ,whitout a load the vdc i have,,,qrx G,ve2ckn >From: Q <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >Reply-To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] motorola power supply >Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2005 13:39:47 -0500 > >The normal GE supply is 15 volts without a load,so I would go ahead and >use it... > >gervais fillion wrote: > > > > hi , > > humm i dont know if i am at the right place,, > > anyone knowes this Motorola Power supply,TPN11108 > > it is based on a Micor Pager unit that i dismantle > > > > at this moment it has a fix voltage at 15 vdc,to much for my master 2 > > i need 14 vdc > > and i dont see any potentionmeter in the power supply board and it seems >to > > be fixed vdc > > > > anyone knows these power supply and a way to lower the vdc at 14 > > > > > > thanks for the help > > > > gervais,ve2ckn > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Tait Repeater
Hello, Anyone out there familiar with a small private labeled Standard repeater that was actually built by Tait I believe. It is in two small caskets about 2" high, 6" wide and 10" long (2X6X8 inches. It is really a stout built cabinet system. Inside the transmitter and receiver are both programmed with a prom, looks to be a 27C64 or so. I have no documentation on this unit and need to get it running for a friend. Let me know if you recognize the repeater or know how to program. I can edit the binary file if needed. Thanks, Paul Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] motorola power supply
The normal GE supply is 15 volts without a load,so I would go ahead and use it... gervais fillion wrote: > > hi , > humm i dont know if i am at the right place,, > anyone knowes this Motorola Power supply,TPN11108 > it is based on a Micor Pager unit that i dismantle > > at this moment it has a fix voltage at 15 vdc,to much for my master 2 > i need 14 vdc > and i dont see any potentionmeter in the power supply board and it seems to > be fixed vdc > > anyone knows these power supply and a way to lower the vdc at 14 > > > thanks for the help > > gervais,ve2ckn > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] crystals for repeaters
Hi all, When building repeaters many of us use older, but still very good equipment such as Motorola and GE. The newer stuff that cost thousands are what the commerical guys use, but repeaters made from older units work great and can be had for much less. This often means the need for crystals. I spend about $1500 to $2000 each year on crystals and I only buy good crystals, DEFFINITY NO NO NO JAN. I have seen some of the best manufactures either go out of business or lower their standards to the point the quality goes to pot. Two manufactures I use are International Crystal and BOMAR. Both make an excellent crystal. If you need one or more all you need is the frequency, the radio, a method of payment and a phone. NOW TO MY REAL POINT. >From International they want $19.95 per crystal for 2 week crystals, but they are now shipping 3 weeks plus. For a pair for a repeater with UPS ground shipping this comes to about $47. A couple months back this was at 6 weeks. So I had to find another source and it was BOMAR. They cost more, about same good quality, but did deliever in 2 weeks. However, they have a $50 min order so to meet this they put my crystal orders on 2 weeks which made the cost $25 each and with shipping came to $60 for one pair. Then one day I had to have 6 crystals, 3 repeater pairs. I placed the order and the cost was $10 per crystal and with shipping $70. WHAT $60 for one pair and $70 for 3 pairs and all of the crystals were 6 different freqs. The catch was with the min order. For 3 pair at $70, $10 per, the order went to 3 to 4 weeks and this is the standard cost. But to meet the $50 for one pair had to be 1-2 weeks. So now if I need one pair I still order 3 for some day I will need the extra 2. So if you are going to crystal a repeater and have a vision of adding a remote base later, you would probably know the freq, order 3 pairs. One pair could be for a back up repeater. I know commerical users need the crystals now for time is money to them. For many of us 3-4 weeks is eaten up just building the repeater so no time is really lost. Have the repeater built and ready for the crystals. On my last order to BOMAR for some reason the 3-4 weeks became about 10 days. Guess they had time or probably a mix up, but I was happy and for $70 for all. Iternational 800-725-1426 (OK) BOMAR 800-526-3935 (NJ) 73, ron, n9ee/r Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] motorola power supply
hi , humm i dont know if i am at the right place,, anyone knowes this Motorola Power supply,TPN11108 it is based on a Micor Pager unit that i dismantle at this moment it has a fix voltage at 15 vdc,to much for my master 2 i need 14 vdc and i dont see any potentionmeter in the power supply board and it seems to be fixed vdc anyone knows these power supply and a way to lower the vdc at 14 thanks for the help gervais,ve2ckn Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Choosing a Site
I have a freind who has their UHF Com 2 way, a Linked and a club repeater and a B-cast Station, only the club R has BCI leaking on XMIT and they are short of money to have it fixed I guess. I did some tech advice for him on a storm that turned the tower into a pretzel we been freinds for years he's a pertty easy going freind for so many years. Unfortunately not everyone is freindly towards us! mark h. Ken Arck wrote: >At 07:31 AM 11/12/2005 -0800, you wrote: > >Joe, all I can say is Good Luck. Commercial sites are getting difficult to >get, they don't want to allow amatuer on the towers. > ><---It might be worth looking to private land owners for sites. Small, >secure buildings (approx 8 X 8) aren't that expensive to build and should >give more then room for just about any situation. Two of my sites ended up >being done this way. > >Then again, if you're needs are very simple, like a single small rack and >an antenna or two, maybe you can negotiate for a corner in a garage or >outbuilding. > >Ken > > > >-- >President and CTO - Arcom Communications >Makers of state-of-the-art repeater controllers and accessories. >http://www.ah6le.net/arcom/index.html >We offer complete Kenwood TKR repeater packages! >We are now an authorized Telewave Dealer! >AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 >http://www.irlp.net > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/ begin:vcard fn:Mark A. Holman n:Holman;Mark A. org:Harvest Assembly of God email;internet:[EMAIL PROTECTED] title:Webmaster, IT Student x-mozilla-html:TRUE url:http://www.ab8ru.org version:2.1 end:vcard
RE: [Repeater-Builder] No duplexer- 2 antenna ?
Love that old copy of Commshop! It's still a great radio tool. Paul WB5IDM -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 10:15 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] No duplexer- 2 antenna ? According to an ancient DOS Site management tool, the duplexer or cavity will require 75.6dB of Isolation for this combo not to cause receiver degenereation. This assumes Receiver 12dB Sinad point in uV = .2 48 feet Vertical Separation, or 1530 Feet Horizontal Separation will provide the required Separation. For 462 TX and 467 RX @ 50 W = 48'V or 1530'H Same for 467TX and 462 RX @ 50W at 40W = 45'V or 1369'H at 30W = 42'V or 1185'H at 20W = 38'V or 968'H at 10W = 32'V or 684'H at 5W = 26'V or 484'H at 1W = 17'V or 216'H Other factors that may affect the accuracy of these figures are antenna, tower, terrain, buildings, feed-lines, etc.. This is from an old copy of CommShop - Original Message - From: "robertakelseyjr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2005 6:36 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] No duplexer- 2 antenna ? >I have a new yeasu 9000 that seems i can program (its synthisized) multiple >channels > and fx's for repeater mode and at the push of a button change pairs.. If I > understand > the software correctly. > > So If I want to use it to its full potential how much physical separation > of the > antenna''s do I need on the same tower so I dont kill the sensitivity. > > I'm programing using the gmrs pairs 462/467 so the max tx is 50 watt. > > Or am I just way over thinking this. Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Yes, you should be able to get it to work by using an SA as the detecting device in place of an RF voltmeter. In fact, you could almost treat the filter as a mini-duplexer and peak all the coils if your SA also has a tracking generator. The only problem is that the peaks are rather broad, whereas the notch-method that the manual specifies is much more precise. Eventually, you'll have to do it their way. Everything in the filter/duplexer is tuned to pass the transmitter's signal. The only things that are tuned to your receiver's frequency are the front-end and mixer coils on the RF tray. Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Ok, I do have a SA, so will use that. Ok, hence > then, just like my duplexers on my 2 meter system, > I'm thinking the prefilter is for the tx and the > post filter is for the receive? So if I inject a > signal into the input of the prefilter of 442.000 > and the output to my SA, I should be able to tune > these up, same with the post filter for the receive > side, if I understand this correctly. > > Mathew > > > "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The built in duplex filtering option is simply a > very high Q pass filter system. Everything on the TX > side should be tuned to your TX frequency. The RX > side of the filter is actually the receiver front > end. which should be tuned to your RX frequency. > Since you have a single frequency application, the > tune freq will be the same as your operating > frequency. The tune up freq applies only to stations > that use multi freq TX/RX. > > A RF millivolter is vastly different from your RS > VOM. You could possibly sub a spectrum analyzer for > the RF millivoltmeter if you have access to one. 73, > > Kevin, K9HX > > At 08:13 AM 11/13/2005, you wrote: > Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for > the filter, it tells me to insert a rf > millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV > signal into the the output of the post filter. I > did this, and get nothing on the meter at all. Now > I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS > Volt-Ohm meter and an RF millivoltmeter. I do have > the test meter for the MSF5000. If you could help > me to understand, is the post filter tuning the pass > frequency of 447.000 which is the receive of the > system, and the prefilter for the 442.000 transmit. > Or is the unit simply filtering all of 447.000 to > handle the isolation of the transmit frequency. It > also says to refer to the Station Parameter Booklet > to for the appropriate tuneup frequency, I'm > assuming that would be the input of the repeater at > 447.000? > > "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >Here is something else to try. This assumes that > the PA pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. > With the TX filter bypassed, but everything else > hooked up, try turning the power set control down a > little. It may be that you are simply driving the PA > too hard and it is shutting down. There are two > different versions of the high power PA, One with a > single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. > I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of > the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which > circulator arrangement you have. With the triple > circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX > filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or > so. The manual will have this info in it. > > >As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain > to tune, but once set up they work well. The > pre-filter is a little easier. Hope this helps, and > good luck! 73, > > >Kevin, K9HX > > > >At 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: > > > >"Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, > you >wouldn't be asking all these questions. > > > > >Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears > to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes > more sense. > >Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a > royal >P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer > skin >from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to > the >connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a > sig >gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you > used >with the receiver, however it can be done with a >spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. >You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm > dummy >load. > >I do have a service monitor here to help in the > aide of this project. > > > > > > > >Rather than go through the entire procedure and > bore >everyone, I'll send you, or post, the couple of > pages >from my manual. The procedure must be followed >exactly. You can't go back and re-adjust the > coils. >They get done in a particular sequence and if you > fool >with them again, you won't get the performance > that's >needed. > >The VCO drives the intermediate power amp (IPA).
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
I will admit that the tune-up procedure is rather unclear and probably is missing some important information. You need something capable of detecting the 447 MHz signal. An RF voltmeter is a high-impedance meter that's sensitive at those frequencies. An ordinary VOM would have problems at a couple hundred kHz. You can use a spectrum analyzer as a detector, except that they usually have 50 ohm input impedance and won't be as sensitive as the RF voltmeter. What you need to do is connect an RF source to one end of the filter and terminate the other end. This can be either the PA or a 50 ohm dummy load. You connect the tuning probe (short cable with a BNC connector at one end and an exposed coax at the other) to your RF voltmeter's input, and shove the probe into the tuning hole adjacent to the tuning slug. This is the same cable you use to tune the receiver's front end, but instead of injecting a signal into the probe, you use it to sense RF in the filter/duplexer. The rest of the procedure is probably OK. You tune the first slug nearest the signal source for a peak on its tuning hole, then tune the next slug for a dip, which is a much sharper indication than the peak. Then you move the tuning probe to the next hole and tune the next slug for a dip, etc. You can't repeat the process without presetting all the coils like the manual says. If you do try to go back, you'll find that the peaking and dipping goes on forever and you will never end up with the proper tuning. All the coils interact and the optimum position changes as you tune other coils. The 3-section filter between the exciter and PA input is often called the pre-filter. The 4-section filter between the PA and the antenna TEE cable is called the post-filter. Both of these are bandpass filters which serve to minimize the amount of energy on the receive frequency. Each of these tuned coils provides about 15dB of rejection of the signal 5 MHz away. By the time you get through the receiver, there's basically nothing left of the transmitter's signal to interfere. Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for > the filter, it tells me to insert a rf > millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV > signal into the the output of the post filter. I > did this, and get nothing on the meter at all. Now > I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS > Volt-Ohm meter and an RF millivoltmeter. I do have > the test meter for the MSF5000. If you could help > me to understand, is the post filter tuning the pass > frequency of 447.000 which is the receive of the > system, and the prefilter for the 442.000 transmit. > Or is the unit simply filtering all of 447.000 to > handle the isolation of the transmit frequency. It > also says to refer to the Station Parameter Booklet > to for the appropriate tuneup frequency, I'm > assuming that would be the input of the repeater at > 447.000? > > "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:Here is > something else to try. This assumes that the PA > pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. With > the TX filter bypassed, but everything else hooked > up, try turning the power set control down a little. > It may be that you are simply driving the PA too > hard and it is shutting down. There are two > different versions of the high power PA, One with a > single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. > I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of > the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which > circulator arrangement you have. With the triple > circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX > filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or > so. The manual will have this info in it. > > As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain to > tune, but once set up they work well. The pre-filter > is a little easier. Hope this helps, and good luck! > 73, > > Kevin, K9HX > > > At 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: > > > "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > >I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, > you > >wouldn't be asking all these questions. > > > > > >Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears > to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes > more sense. > > >Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a > royal > >P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer > skin > >from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to > the > >connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a > sig > >gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you > used > >with the receiver, however it can be done with a > >spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. > >You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm > dummy > >load. > > >I do have a service monitor here to help in the > aide of this project. > > > > > > > > >Rather than go through the entire procedure and > bore > >everyone, I'll send you, or post, the
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Ok, I do have a SA, so will use that. Ok, hence then, just like my duplexers on my 2 meter system, I'm thinking the prefilter is for the tx and the post filter is for the receive? So if I inject a signal into the input of the prefilter of 442.000 and the output to my SA, I should be able to tune these up, same with the post filter for the receive side, if I understand this correctly. Mathew "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The built in duplex filtering option is simply a very high Q pass filter system. Everything on the TX side should be tuned to your TX frequency. The RX side of the filter is actually the receiver front end. which should be tuned to your RX frequency. Since you have a single frequency application, the tune freq will be the same as your operating frequency. The tune up freq applies only to stations that use multi freq TX/RX.A RF millivolter is vastly different from your RS VOM. You could possibly sub a spectrum analyzer for the RF millivoltmeter if you have access to one. 73,Kevin, K9HXAt 08:13 AM 11/13/2005, you wrote: Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for the filter, it tells me to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV signal into the the output of the post filter. I did this, and get nothing on the meter at all. Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS Volt-Ohm meter and an RF millivoltmeter. I do have the test meter for the MSF5000. If you could help me to understand, is the post filter tuning the pass frequency of 447.000 which is the receive of the system, and the prefilter for the 442.000 transmit. Or is the unit simply filtering all of 447.000 to handle the isolation of the transmit frequency. It also says to refer to the Station Parameter Booklet to for the appropriate tuneup frequency, I'm assuming that would be the input of the repeater at 447.000?"Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Here is something else to try. This assumes that the PA pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. With the TX filter bypassed, but everything else hooked up, try turning the power set control down a little. It may be that you are simply driving the PA too hard and it is shutting down. There are two different versions of the high power PA, One with a single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which circulator arrangement you have. With the triple circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or so. The manual will have this info in it. As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain to tune, but once set up they work well. The pre-filter is a little easier. Hope this helps, and good luck! 73, Kevin, K9HX At 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, you wouldn't be asking all these questions. Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes more sense. Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a royal P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer skin from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to the connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a sig gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you used with the receiver, however it can be done with a spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm dummy load. I do have a service monitor here to help in the aide of this project. Rather than go through the entire procedure and bore everyone, I'll send you, or post, the couple of pages from my manual. The procedure must be followed exactly. You can't go back and re-adjust the coils. They get done in a particular sequence and if you fool with them again, you won't get the performance that's needed. The VCO drives the intermediate power amp (IPA). This sends 3-9 watts out to the three-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the input of the power amp (PA). The output of the PA goes into the four-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the TEE cable that joins the receiver to the antenna connector. These cables are cut for a specific Tx/Rx relationship, and your new freqs must match that. For example, the normal commercial repeater transmits on, say, 460 MHz, and receives on 465 MHz. The fact that it receives higher than it transmits can't be changed when you use the station in the amateur band. Your receiver must still be 5 MHz higher than the transmitter's output. They do make cables for the other direction, but they're extremely rare. There are color bands on the TEE cable that identify the freq range and direction. Hopefully you have the proper cable. If not, either you'll have to try to make one, buy one (they're probably NLA from Motorola), choose another repeater frequency where the offset direction is appropriate, or not use the st
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
The built in duplex filtering option is simply a very high Q pass filter system. Everything on the TX side should be tuned to your TX frequency. The RX side of the filter is actually the receiver front end. which should be tuned to your RX frequency. Since you have a single frequency application, the tune freq will be the same as your operating frequency. The tune up freq applies only to stations that use multi freq TX/RX. A RF millivolter is vastly different from your RS VOM. You could possibly sub a spectrum analyzer for the RF millivoltmeter if you have access to one. 73, Kevin, K9HX At 08:13 AM 11/13/2005, you wrote: Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for the filter, it tells me to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV signal into the the output of the post filter. I did this, and get nothing on the meter at all. Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS Volt-Ohm meter and an RF millivoltmeter. I do have the test meter for the MSF5000. If you could help me to understand, is the post filter tuning the pass frequency of 447.000 which is the receive of the system, and the prefilter for the 442.000 transmit. Or is the unit simply filtering all of 447.000 to handle the isolation of the transmit frequency. It also says to refer to the Station Parameter Booklet to for the appropriate tuneup frequency, I'm assuming that would be the input of the repeater at 447.000? "Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Here is something else to try. This assumes that the PA pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. With the TX filter bypassed, but everything else hooked up, try turning the power set control down a little. It may be that you are simply driving the PA too hard and it is shutting down. There are two different versions of the high power PA, One with a single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which circulator arrangement you have. With the triple circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or so. The manual will have this info in it. As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain to tune, but once set up they work well. The pre-filter is a little easier. Hope this helps, and good luck! 73, Kevin, K9HX At 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, you wouldn't be asking all these questions. Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes more sense. Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a royal P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer skin from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to the connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a sig gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you used with the receiver, however it can be done with a spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm dummy load. I do have a service monitor here to help in the aide of this project. Rather than go through the entire procedure and bore everyone, I'll send you, or post, the couple of pages from my manual. The procedure must be followed exactly. You can't go back and re-adjust the coils. They get done in a particular sequence and if you fool with them again, you won't get the performance that's needed. The VCO drives the intermediate power amp (IPA). This sends 3-9 watts out to the three-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the input of the power amp (PA). The output of the PA goes into the four-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the TEE cable that joins the receiver to the antenna connector. These cables are cut for a specific Tx/Rx relationship, and your new freqs must match that. For example, the normal commercial repeater transmits on, say, 460 MHz, and receives on 465 MHz. The fact that it receives higher than it transmits can't be changed when you use the station in the amateur band. Your receiver must still be 5 MHz higher than the transmitter's output. They do make cables for the other direction, but they're extremely rare. There are color bands on the TEE cable that identify the freq range and direction. Hopefully you have the proper cable. If not, either you'll have to try to make one, buy one (they're probably NLA from Motorola), choose another repeater frequency where the offset direction is appropriate, or not use the station at all. I am receiving higher at 447.000 and transmitting at 442.000 The controller samples the IPA and PA output levels and if they aren't within the range they think is normal, you'll get a PA failure error. If the F/D isn't tuned correctly, you'll get too much loss in the system and the sensing circuits will tell you something's wrong. The digital stations will extinguish an LED. If I disconnect the pa, and the F/D, would this not
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor VHF High Band Repeater Amplifier
Dale, Did you check it out? 73, Chas, W1CG At 08:01 AM 11/11/2005, you wrote: >I might have an amp for a low band but will check Numbers and get back with >you > Dale N8SAC >- Original Message - >From: "Charles Greene" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: >Sent: Wednesday, November 09, 2005 5:56 AM >Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Micor VHF High Band Repeater Amplifier > > > > GM, > > > > Would anyone have by chance a Motorola Micor VHF High Band repeater > > final amplifier, part number C53RCB-3105AT, 60-watts, PL with unified > > chassis? If so, please e-mail me off list. A C43, C63 or C73 would also > > work. > > > > Tnx, W1CG, Chas > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Micor VHF High Band Repeater Amplifier
Eric, Tnx for info; I will check them out. 73, Chas At 10:14 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: >Chas, > >I suggest you look for a Motorola TLD1692 Power Amplifier, which is >rated at 100 >watts continuous duty in the 132-150.8 MHz band. You'll also need a TLD5321 >Exciter and a TFD6111 Bandpass Filter, both of which are for the 132-150.8 MHz >band. > >One source of Canadian surplus Micor equipment is at >. Although >they specialize in complete repeater and base stations, they have an extensive >stock of components. > >73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > >Charles Greene wrote: > > > Eric, > > > > Tnx for the info. What is the part number of the 100 watt > Canadian PA, so we can > > go looking for one of those? > > > > Tnx, Chas > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Sitting here looking at the tune up procedure for the filter, it tells me to insert a rf millivoltmeter probe into J18 and insert a 225 mV signal into the the output of the post filter. I did this, and get nothing on the meter at all. Now I'm not sure if there is a difference between my RS Volt-Ohm meter and an RF millivoltmeter. I do have the test meter for the MSF5000. If you could help me to understand, is the post filter tuning the pass frequency of 447.000 which is the receive of the system, and the prefilter for the 442.000 transmit. Or is the unit simply filtering all of 447.000 to handle the isolation of the transmit frequency. It also says to refer to the Station Parameter Booklet to for the appropriate tuneup frequency, I'm assuming that would be the input of the repeater at 447.000?"Kevin Berlen, K9HX" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Here is something else to try. This assumes that the PA pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. With the TX filter bypassed, but everything else hooked up, try turning the power set control down a little. It may be that you are simply driving the PA too hard and it is shutting down. There are two different versions of the high power PA, One with a single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which circulator arrangement you have. With the triple circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or so. The manual will have this info in it.As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain to tune, but once set up they work well. The pre-filter is a little easier. Hope this helps, and good luck! 73,Kevin, K9HXAt 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, you wouldn't be asking all these questions. Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes more sense. Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a royal P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer skin from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to the connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a sig gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you used with the receiver, however it can be done with a spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm dummy load. I do have a service monitor here to help in the aide of this project. Rather than go through the entire procedure and bore everyone, I'll send you, or post, the couple of pages from my manual. The procedure must be followed exactly. You can't go back and re-adjust the coils. They get done in a particular sequence and if you fool with them again, you won't get the performance that's needed. The VCO drives the intermediate power amp (IPA). This sends 3-9 watts out to the three-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the input of the power amp (PA). The output of the PA goes into the four-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the TEE cable that joins the receiver to the antenna connector. These cables are cut for a specific Tx/Rx relationship, and your new freqs must match that. For example, the normal commercial repeater transmits on, say, 460 MHz, and receives on 465 MHz. The fact that it receives higher than it transmits can't be changed when you use the station in the amateur band. Your receiver must still be 5 MHz higher than the transmitter's output. They do make cables for the other direction, but they're extremely rare. There are color bands on the TEE cable that identify the freq range and direction. Hopefully you have the proper cable. If not, either you'll have to try to make one, buy one (they're probably NLA from Motorola), choose another repeater frequency where the offset direction is appropriate, or not use the station at all. I am receiving higher at 447.000 and transmitting at 442.000 The controller samples the IPA and PA output levels and if they aren't within the range they think is normal, you'll get a PA failure error. If the F/D isn't tuned correctly, you'll get too much loss in the system and the sensing circuits will tell you something's wrong. The digital stations will extinguish an LED. If I disconnect the pa, and the F/D, would this not eliminate the problem between the IPA and the F/D? Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife wrote: > Thanks Bob, I did finally get that one, got them > locked, and the receiver is nearly tuned, however no > repeat as of yet. I went from a 3 beep now to a 2 > beep. Looking for that. > > Mathew > > > "Bob M." wrote: > The VCO coils are only present on the UHF stations, > and as I recall, that's what you have. > > Pull the RF tray out and swing the control tray up, > then turn the VCO Lock knobs to the TRANSIT > positions. > This will push them down into their cavities in the > RF > tray casting. On each side, lower rear, you will see > two or three holes in a t
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Here is something else to try. This assumes that the PA pre-filter has been tuned to your frequency. With the TX filter bypassed, but everything else hooked up, try turning the power set control down a little. It may be that you are simply driving the PA too hard and it is shutting down. There are two different versions of the high power PA, One with a single circulator, and one with a triple circulator. I don't recall the exact figures, but the ouput of the PA has to be "de-rated" depending on which circulator arrangement you have. With the triple circulator, the power out of the PA into the TX filter should be in the vicinity of 70-80 watts or so. The manual will have this info in it. As stated by others the TX filter is a real pain to tune, but once set up they work well. The pre-filter is a little easier. Hope this helps, and good luck! 73, Kevin, K9HX At 05:50 PM 11/12/2005, you wrote: "Bob M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I get the impression that if you HAD a manual, you wouldn't be asking all these questions. Yes I have the manual, however some of it appears to greek to me, but as I ask questions, it makes more sense. Anyway, tuning the internal filter/duplexer is a royal P.I.T.A. The first thing I do is remove the outer skin from the cabinet. This gets you easy access to the connectors on the F/D. The procedure requires a sig gen, an RF voltmeter, and the tuning cable you used with the receiver, however it can be done with a spectrum analyzer that has a tracking generator. You'll also need an accurate, low power, 50 ohm dummy load. I do have a service monitor here to help in the aide of this project. Rather than go through the entire procedure and bore everyone, I'll send you, or post, the couple of pages from my manual. The procedure must be followed exactly. You can't go back and re-adjust the coils. They get done in a particular sequence and if you fool with them again, you won't get the performance that's needed. The VCO drives the intermediate power amp (IPA). This sends 3-9 watts out to the three-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the input of the power amp (PA). The output of the PA goes into the four-coil section of the F/D, and this feeds the TEE cable that joins the receiver to the antenna connector. These cables are cut for a specific Tx/Rx relationship, and your new freqs must match that. For example, the normal commercial repeater transmits on, say, 460 MHz, and receives on 465 MHz. The fact that it receives higher than it transmits can't be changed when you use the station in the amateur band. Your receiver must still be 5 MHz higher than the transmitter's output. They do make cables for the other direction, but they're extremely rare. There are color bands on the TEE cable that identify the freq range and direction. Hopefully you have the proper cable. If not, either you'll have to try to make one, buy one (they're probably NLA from Motorola), choose another repeater frequency where the offset direction is appropriate, or not use the station at all. I am receiving higher at 447.000 and transmitting at 442.000 The controller samples the IPA and PA output levels and if they aren't within the range they think is normal, you'll get a PA failure error. If the F/D isn't tuned correctly, you'll get too much loss in the system and the sensing circuits will tell you something's wrong. The digital stations will extinguish an LED. If I disconnect the pa, and the F/D, would this not eliminate the problem between the IPA and the F/D? Bob M. == --- Mathew Quaife wrote: > Thanks Bob, I did finally get that one, got them > locked, and the receiver is nearly tuned, however no > repeat as of yet. I went from a 3 beep now to a 2 > beep. Looking for that. > > Mathew > > > "Bob M." wrote: > The VCO coils are only present on the UHF stations, > and as I recall, that's what you have. > > Pull the RF tray out and swing the control tray up, > then turn the VCO Lock knobs to the TRANSIT > positions. > This will push them down into their cavities in the > RF > tray casting. On each side, lower rear, you will see > two or three holes in a triangular pattern. The > upper > two are often used to hold cable ties, but the lower > one lines up with the VCO coil's slug. Insert your > 5mm > Allen wrench in there - the slugs are exactly the > same > as the ones in the front of the RF tray and adjust > the > same. With the meter plugged in, adjust for a value > of > 38 +/- 2 uA on the appropriate metering pin (I think > it's pin 5 but don't hold me to that). > > Perform the adjustment on the highest frequency on > both Transmit and Receive. This is the first step in > any UHF MSF5000 alignment. > > Bob M. > == > --- Mathew Quaife wrote: > > > Ok, I think I have missed it, or misplaced it. > > Which ones are the VCO adjustment pots. All the > > manual tells me is to adjust the
