[Repeater-Builder] RLC4, possible to make one port a priority over the others?
Howdy, Is it possible to configure a port to be a priority port over the other ports on the RLC4? So if for instance there is an active conversation occurring on port 1 but then someone keys up port 4, the audio from port 4 goes out the repeater while crow-barring the audio coming in on port 1. Is that possible? If so, how do I do it? 73's and thank you in advance, Mike KE6MRE
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Wed, Sep 09, 2009 at 04:51:22PM -0700, Eric Lemmon wrote: Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. I beg to differ. Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) Especially if it's going to be heated or warm at all, the adhesive on vinyl tape will eventually become a mess, and allow the tape to wander. Cloth tape will stick to and stay with its adhesive. There is a place for all three. 73, Majdi, N0RMZ
[Repeater-Builder] Tools
Hello! I am looking for some QUALITY RF trimming tools. Here I can find only plastic rubbish and want to get some nice ceramic tools (whole set of them, for trimming capacitors and those hexa for coils). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Milan Pavlica YU7XW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Requesting SmarTrunk II Digital Controller Info
Smart-Trunk is/was in Southern California... their radio trunking format is different from all the other choices. But the format worked OK, was very low cost to buy the hardware and some radio mfgrs provided the format capacity in their lower cost radios... Kenwood being one. It was a very smart move and a decent choice if you knew what you were doing. But I was told the owner of the Smart-Trunk Format had a war with the Company (I'm sure it was probably over money) and reported to refus to allow the Company to continue to sell it, meaning the death knell for the format... sad. You might find someone who has the firmware for some of the Kenwood and Icom Portables and start a low cost trunking system. I picked a few controllers up off of Ebay last year (for almost nothing) with hopes of playing with them and the format... but haven't gotten anywhere with it yet. Doug posted a follow up with the manual url. The controllers will not work with CTCSS or DCS radio formats. cheers, skipp skipp025 at yahoo.om bbfmrf bbf...@... wrote: I have (3) ST-853 SmarTrunk II Digital Controllers. I cannot seem to find any info on these models. Can anyone supply info on these controllers? For example, are they capable of PL and DPL or any other formats? How are they programmed etc, etc.
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kris Kirby Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
On Thu, 10 Sep 2009, Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H? wonder when it became ?Queer Tape?? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4?s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force? I?ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! F-4 tape! That's the stuff. As far as I'm aware, it was called Queer Tape as of about 30 years ago. ;-) -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Funny... all those years in maintenance and I've never heard that before. Musta been a term that was used in the fighter community. I mostly worked heavies, and we definitely had a different vocabulary than the pointy-noses dudes! 73, Mike WM4B On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 7:30 AM , Kris Kirby wrote: On Thu, 10 Sep 2009, Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H? wonder when it became ?Queer Tape?? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4?s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force? I?ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! F-4 tape! That's the stuff. As far as I'm aware, it was called Queer Tape as of about 30 years ago. ;-) -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
Doesn't RF parts have some ceramic ones? On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 2:09 AM, mpavlica mpavl...@ptt.rs wrote: Hello! I am looking for some QUALITY RF trimming tools. Here I can find only plastic rubbish and want to get some nice ceramic tools (whole set of them, for trimming capacitors and those hexa for coils). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Milan Pavlica YU7XW
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Rebuilding a Stationmaster
Hi Group, I think the guy is talking about the new station master made by celwave RFS. These don't have the flat head screws. Has anyone taken apart any of the new style? And if so any pictures ? Ryan n3ssl
Re: [Repeater-Builder] J-pole
A gain J-pole has extra element(s) separated by a phasing network. Google has several hits for Super J-Pole and perhaps the best I found is at: http://rbsfm.ej.am/joomla/index.php?option=com_contenttask=viewid=43Itemid=26 which goes into more detail. The design I used was publicized many years ago by a packet group out of the mid-west which used a 1/2 wave phasing coil separating the vertical elements. I liked this approach since it got rid of the unwieldy loop phasing network and thus allowed a fit inside the Stationmaster radome. Jack - N7OO - Original Message - From: John Sehring To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 12:23 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] J-pole What exactly is a gain J-pole? Am familiar with J-poles, but... Sounds interesting. --John === Our ultimate solution was to replace the copper pipe dipoles with a gain J-pole made out of #12 copper wire and hung inside the radome from the tip. The J was found to have feed line reflections which was solved by adding a coaxial stub at the exterior feed point. This flattened the line and preserved the radiation pattern of the J. A lot of fussing but the end result was a light weight antenna with a gain and radiation pattern very close to that of the original Stationmaster. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.87/2356 - Release Date: 09/09/09 06:53:00
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Rebuilding a Stationmaster
I found this online: http://www.srgclub.org/CollinearAnt-Repair-SMaster.html probably not what the original poster was looking for though. Chris Kb0wlf -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3ssl Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 12:34 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Rebuilding a Stationmaster Hi Group, I think the guy is talking about the new station master made by celwave RFS. These don't have the flat head screws. Has anyone taken apart any of the new style? And if so any pictures ? Ryan n3ssl Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.87/2356 - Release Date: 09/10/09 05:50:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Rubber tape is good for high-vibration environments, where the insulation could get rubbed off over time. The rubber would get worn down before the insulation. Apply cloth tape over it to keep rubber from dripping off in high heat. Cloth tape is good for higher temps (won't stretch like plastic), and you can tie it in knots :) BUT, cloth tape attracts moisture! Cloth tape is good for base-ball bats! :) I like Super 88 and 33+, depending on the application. 77 is the cheaper stuff I use to tape wires together and pull through conduit. 73, KD6AAJ --- On Wed, 9/9/09, hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com wrote: From: hitekgearhead hitekgearh...@hotmail.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Date: Wednesday, September 9, 2009, 3:47 PM I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks? Yahoo! Groups Links mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
to cheap to be true ceramics... And also, cannot be used for hexa type of small coils. I am looking maybe for Belzer or Bernstein trimming tools - Originalna poruka - Pošiljalac: DCFluX dcf...@gmail.com Datum: Cetvrtak, Septembar 10, 2009 17:58 Tema: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools Primalac: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com br !--/* start of attachment style */ .ygrp-photo-title{ clear: both; font-size: smaller; height: 15px; overflow: hidden; text-align: center; width: 75px; } div.ygrp-photo{ background-position: center; background-repeat: no-repeat; background-color: white; border: 1px solid black; height: 62px; width: 62px; } div.photo-title a, div.photo-title a:active, div.photo-title a:hover, div.photo-title a:visited { text-decoration: none;} div.attach-table div.attach-row { clear: both; } div.attach-table div.attach-row div { float: left; /* margin: 2px;*/ } p { clear: both; padding: 15px 0 3px 0; overflow: hidden; } div.ygrp-file { width: 30px; valign: middle; } div.attach-table div.attach-row div div a { text-decoration: none; } div.attach-table div.attach-row div div span { font-weight: normal; } div.ygrp-file-title { font-weight: bold; } /* end of attachment style */--br br !--#ygrp-mkp{ border: 1px solid #d8d8d8; font-family: Arial; margin: 14px 0px; padding: 0px 14px;}#ygrp-mkp hr{ border: 1px solid #d8d8d8;}#ygrp-mkp #hd{ color: #628c2a; font-size: 85%; font-weight: bold; line-height: 122%; margin: 10px 0px;}#ygrp-mkp #ads{ margin-bottom: 10px;}#ygrp-mkp .ad{ padding: 0 0;}#ygrp-mkp .ad a{ color: #ff; text-decoration: none;}--br Doesn't RF parts have some ceramic ones? On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 2:09 AM, mpavlica mpavl...@ptt.rs wrote: Hello! I am looking for some QUALITY RF trimming tools. Here I can find only plastic rubbish and want to get some nice ceramic tools (whole set of them, for trimming capacitors and those hexa for coils). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Milan Pavlica YU7XW
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterjsu...@intrastar.net wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links * To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ * Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional * To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) * To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
If you can get a hold of the 'real' F-4 tape that the Air Force uses, it will not leave any type of mess behind and it is not affected by UV rays. I've seen stuff exposed to sunlight for years and it was fine. A sharp knife or razor blade applied longitudinally will split it open and allow you to peel it off completely, leaving no residue whatsoever. The only thing it sticks to is itself. Mike WM4B On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 2:53 PM , Jacob Suter wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H… wonder when it became ‘Queer Tape’? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4’s knows why!) I still work for the Air Force… I’ll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices. However, I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the same of splicing tape, then again of 88). Overlap each successive wrap about 50%. Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP. You want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in under the overlapping wraps. Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards. For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969. For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4 tapes to help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to the smaller connector. Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1 and larger widths. Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often found in 1 and 1-1/2 widths. If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy. This is known as a courtesy wrap, and anyone who's had to cut open a connector junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that... --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Raker Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterjsu...@intrastar.net wrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave sells it in their kits for connector sealing. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst Yahoo! Groups Links Yahoo! Groups Links No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.409 / Virus Database: 270.13.78/2347 - Release Date: 09/10/09 05:50:00
Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
Another trick I learned is to make 2 wraps with the adhesive in (on the work) then fold it over and make your wraps with the adhesive out as your first layer before putting the mastic/butyl tape down. This will keep the adhesive from getting all over the work, especially when wrapping coax connectors. Another suggestion is a squirt of silicone lube to keep the adhesive from sticking where you don't want it. I love the extra-wide 33+ tape. I keep a roll hidden in my toolbox for those 7/8 to N transitions... I also have a couple of cans of ScotchKote hidden from the CARB guys, who would confiscate it if they had a chance. That stuff is so full of VOCs it's illegal, but it's the absolute best thing as that last step in waterproofing a connection that's going to be hundreds of feet up on a tower. -- John Smokey Behr Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852 List Owner x10, Moderator x9 CalEMA 51-507 http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr - Original Message From: Jeff DePolo j...@broadsci.com To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 12:52:39 PM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape This is my preferred method as well for sealing connector splices. However, I do three layers each time (one layer up, down, up again of 88, then the same of splicing tape, then again of 88). Overlap each successive wrap about 50%. Always, always, always do the last wrap in each direction going UP. You want the open ends of the spiral wraps to be down so that water can't run in under the overlapping wraps. Although it seems obvious, I can't tell you how many hundreds of installations I've seen done bass-ackwards. For linerless splicing tape, I buy Scotch 130C or Plymouth L969. For bigger connectors (7/8+), use something wider than normal 3/4 tapes to help cover over the transition from the large cable's connector body down to the smaller connector. Scotch 88, 130C, et al are available in 1 and larger widths. Scotch 88T is Scotch 88 marketed toward the telephone industry and is often found in 1 and 1-1/2 widths. If you do prefer to use taffy (butyl tape), do the rest of the favor and first wrap the splice with a layer of 88 before applying the taffy. This is known as a courtesy wrap, and anyone who's had to cut open a connector junction that was sealed with butyl tape knows why it's called that... --- Jeff WN3A -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Brian Raker Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 3:23 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Actually, this is how I've been taught by several RF engineers to seal outdoor connections... a layer of Super 88, then linerless splicing tape (about 1/2~1 inch longer than the 88 layer), then a second layer of Super 88 (about 1~2 inches longer than the splicing tape layer). Seals up the connection well and allows for reasonably easy stripping of the seal in case you need to do work. -BR On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 11:53 AM, Jacob Suterwrote: 3M Mastic tape? Just remember, it'll end up sticking to anything else you stick it to *eventually*, often in ways that are quite amazing and not reasonably removed. I suggest a layer of standard electrical tape between anything you care about and the mastic tape layer (and another layer of electrical tape outside that to keep the UV away)... JS Mike Besemer (WM4B) wrote: H. wonder when it became 'Queer Tape'? For the 24 years I was in, it was F-4 tape. (Anybody who ever worked F-4's knows why!) I still work for the Air Force. I'll have to ask some of the Spark Chaser and Pointy Heads! 73, Mike WM4B *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] *On Behalf Of *Kris Kirby *Sent:* Thursday, September 10, 2009 6:37 AM *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com *Subject:* Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Majdi S. Abbas wrote: Self-vulcanizing rubber tape is GREAT for splices. However, you need something to wrap it with to protect the rubber...and there's where the friction tape comes in. Traditional splices were self-vulcanizing rubber underneath friction tape for this reason (and it's the reason they are all still available.) There is a type of tape used by the Air Force which is based on silicone which has a unique property of not sticking to hands or anything else except itself. I believe you stretch it a little when you're applying it, but once it's been applied, it is a completely single unit and cannot be unwrapped. (I tried.) The unofficial Air Force term for it is Queer Tape, Times Microwave
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
I just made some out of heavy copper wire and small rods two decades ago , still working fine To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com From: mpavl...@ptt.rs Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 20:21:13 +0200 Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools to cheap to be true ceramics... And also, cannot be used for hexa type of small coils. I am looking maybe for Belzer or Bernstein trimming tools - Originalna poruka - Pošiljalac: DCFluX dcf...@gmail.com Datum: Cetvrtak, Septembar 10, 2009 17:58 Tema: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools Primalac: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Doesn't RF parts have some ceramic ones? On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 2:09 AM, mpavlica mpavl...@ptt.rs wrote: Hello! I am looking for some QUALITY RF trimming tools. Here I can find only plastic rubbish and want to get some nice ceramic tools (whole set of them, for trimming capacitors and those hexa for coils). Any suggestions? Thanks in advance! Milan Pavlica YU7XW _ View photos of singles in your area Click Here http://clk.atdmt.com/NMN/go/150855801/direct/01/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ATSC pilot frequencies for Sig.Gen. alignment
Some of the stuff coming out of China (Hong Kong) is fine. I just wouldn't trust anything that's got to be ultra precise... -- John Smokey Behr Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852 List Owner x10, Moderator x9 CalEMA 51-507 http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr - Original Message From: Al Wolfe k...@arrl.net To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Tuesday, September 8, 2009 10:14:21 PM Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ATSC pilot frequencies for Sig.Gen. alignment Pity that the guy selling all this stuff is in China. I think I'll pass. Al, k9si
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Passive fer wifi
A pair of DBS dishes with a bi-quad antenna mounted in place of the feedhorn, fed by WRT-54G routers with DD-WRT firmware to tweak the power and turn off one antenna port will be perfect for this application. You can either flip the dish so the feed is on top, or mount the pole so it's horizontal (or at a 45* angle) to get the proper look angle for the dish. -- John Smokey Behr Gleichweit FF1/EMT, CCNA, MCSE IPN-CAL023 N6FOG UP Fresno Sub MP183.5 ECV1852 List Owner x10, Moderator x9 CalEMA 51-507 http://smokeybehr.blogspot.com http://www.myspace.com/smokeybehr - Original Message From: Kris Kirby k...@catonic.us To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 10:41:55 AM Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Passive fer wifi On Wed, 9 Sep 2009, Jim Brown wrote: I have a buddy who has a son living about a quarter mile away, and he mounted a router in a weatherproof fiberglass box on top of his 50 ft tower, and his son gets a good signal. Getting the router antennas up in the clear was the answer for that system. Kinda like ATT did with those microwave towers on 4, 6, and 11GHz. 2.4GHz is very much line of sight stuff. I was always advised as a part of my training to confine the signal to as limited a space as I could afford to. From a network-sharing perspective, you'd be better off with a corner reflector at the top of the tower, or some form of narrow angle antenna, like a 15+ dBi dish. This confines the RF to an area around your buddy's son's house and at the same time looks like the access point is in his backyard. The advantage to this is that your router isn't off the air due to interference, and you don't have to worry about interlopers stealing your WiFi. -- Kris Kirby, KE4AHR Disinformation Analyst
[Repeater-Builder] Wanted: Hardline Connector installed N NJ
Wanted Someone to install 4, N connectors on 7/8ths hardline, before Sunday 13 Sept. Location is Northern NJ. We could possibly bring the Hard Line to you for the install. Please contact Dave Hubbell 862.266.2339 Thanks in advance Dave
RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape
In my previous post on this topic, I neglected to identify Linerless Splicing Tape as Scotch 130C. Here's more info on this great stuff: http://tinyurl.com/q6s9xz Scotch 130C and Super 88 tapes are available in several widths. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 4:51 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape Scotch Super 33 tape is great stuff, but Scotch Super 88 is even better- it's thicker, has a better adhesive, and it has better UV resistance. Cloth tape, AKA friction tape, should be pitched into a trash can. Scotch does make a Linerless Splicing Tape which is self-vulcanizing rubber, and is great for making a cable splice waterproof. You stretch it as you wind it onto the splice, and it sticks to itself. Cover that layer with Super 88 tape, and you never need to worry about water getting into that splice. If you can't find these tapes at Home Depot or similar home-improvement stores, try a commercial electrical supply house. If that's not convenient, go to 3M's online store and buy any Scotch product made. 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of hitekgearhead Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 3:47 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] OT: Tape I have heard you all mention scotch super 33 vinyl electrical tape and recommended it for a few different uses. Is there still any use for rubber and cloth type electrical tapes for certain specific tasks?
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tools
Those are called needle nose pliers. Craftsman has a nice 5 piece set of pliers for small work. On Thu, Sep 10, 2009 at 8:19 PM, Ray Brown kb0...@sbcglobal.net wrote: Speaking of tools, how about the specialized wrenches that can take the SMA connector nut loose on, oh, say, Yaesu VX 5 or FT-50's? Ray, KB0STN Yahoo! Groups Links
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Rebuilding a Stationmaster
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Chris Curtis demo...@... wrote: I found this online: http://www.srgclub.org/CollinearAnt-Repair-SMaster.html probably not what the original poster was looking for though. That was precisely what I was looking for! Thanks!! Chris Kb0wlf -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of n3ssl Sent: Thursday, September 10, 2009 12:34 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Rebuilding a Stationmaster Hi Group, I think the guy is talking about the new station master made by celwave RFS. No, mine is definitely not new. :) About all I can ID on it is the Phelps Dodge label. They were bought by Celwave/RFS I hear, but this one predates that. rj
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT: Tape
I want to thank you all for you input, insight, and stories. You have confirmed exactly what I was thinking. I too have often experienced vinyl electrical tape getting gooey and sticky in high temp environments (automobiles). This is why I use heat shrink on most things. Also, I didn't think it would be a good sealer on coax connections just by itself. I guess everything has it's purpose. Now how about that waxed linen thread instead of zip ties