RE: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Repeater Antenna Discussion

[KD4PBC]

Cort, 

Do you really have 5/8" ?  
Here are the part numbers for the coax

LDF4-50A 1/2 50 ohms - loss at 450MHz ~1.447 
LDF5-50A 7/8 50 ohms - loss at 450MHz ~ .808
LDF6-50A 1 1/4 50 ohms
LDF7-50A 1 5/8 50 ohms

So if you have the real deal feed line loss doesn't look like your problem
If you have something else all bets are off send me what number is on the
cable.  

The Telewave antenna (actuality ANY Telewave antenna) is problematic. 
We tried using several in the paging business most likely for the same
reason you did they are cheap. 
They never performed as well as advertised. 

If you want a "cheap" antenna the best for the money is and ASP705K by
Decibel Products (or whatever they are this week) 
They work well have a nice round pattern. And will generally out perform a
DB-420 because of less pattern distortion. 

The statement "The DB420 is spaced correctly from the tower" concerns me as
there is no "correct" way to side mount an antenna. 
You must take in to account the desired v. undesired coverage areas and
optimize the mount and elements to achieve the desired coverage.

On that antenna with an 18" face tower mounted 16" off the point of the
tower set in an omni configuration 
You will see peaks of around 10.5dBd and nulls of around 5dBd. 

I see nothing here that would indicate that the Telewave system is
performing correctly. 
Remember to take into the feed line loss when calculating SWR. That is if
you are putting a 100 watts into the feed line and get 50 watts back 
That indicates a fault at the top as you have 100 watts and 2.894dB loss
(1.447*2 up and down) that would be half power of 50 watts. 

Do some more looking before you call the antenna bad. 

Robert / KD4PBC



-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Cort Buffington
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 9:17 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] UHF Repeater Antenna Discussion

Folks,

My repeater partner and I have recently placed our new 440 machine. We  
have realized some odd issues. We bought a new Telewave ANT450F10 to  
put on top of the 100' tower, fed with a new piece of Andrew 5/8"  
heliax. We also side-mounted an old DB420 with the top a few feet down  
from the top of the tower with about 85' of old 7/8" Andrew heliax.  
So, we put smokin' new gear on top, and smokin old below it. The DB420  
is spaced correctly from the tower and is set up with each half 90  
degrees rotated.

The tower is on relatively high pasture land (for NE Kansas anyway)  
with a nice clear view all around. I'll not say we're on a hill, but  
on relatively high ground. We are attempting to cover two towns  
approximately 25 miles apart. We are 1/3 of the way from town 1 to  
town 2 and about 3 miles N of the highway that pretty much is a  
straight shot connecting them.

The Telewave setup on top performs poorly. The DB420 on the side is  
working great. By this difference, I mean signals that are getting in  
full quieting on the DB420 are very noisy on the Telewave. Transmit  
differences mirror receive. S9 reception on the DB420, switch to the  
Telewave and it's S1-S3. We experience this phenomenon in all  
directions.

Wattmeter (yes, it is a "real one" -- Telewave 44) says that things  
look good as far as loading both antennas -- DB420 is 1.43:1, F10 is  
1.39:1. We are about to climb and take readings at the top to make  
sure there is no feed problem with the Telewave 'F10, and I admit that  
has not been done yet. We did have a discussion with Telewave, who  
advised that vertical alignment of the F10 (as they refer to it) is  
critical. We have checked alignment and even implemented a little down- 
tilt in the most important direction (just a few degrees). We see not  
real appreciable difference.

For you repeater elmers out there: If we don't find a problem with the  
feedline on the Telewave antenna, does this make any sense? Telewave  
also HIGHLY recommended that the F10 isn't a good fit for this  
installation due to its extremely narrow vertical beamwidth, and  
recommended that a 4-bay dipole of theirs would be MUCH better because  
of the ability to tune the pattern to our desired coverage area and  
the increased vertical beamwidth. I always thought I wanted NARROW  
vertical beamwidth to keep the RF on the horizon. I would have thought  
that 100' up on relatively high ground (this is Kansas, after all)  
wouldn't have a real problem shooting over the top 10 - 30 miles away.

In any event I seek advice and wisdom, and yes, we are planning to  
check the coax for loss at the earliest convenience. I would like to  
take advantage of the top slot on the tower for improved performance  
rather than stay on the lower spot, and will try another antenna if  
necessary. I'm just having a hard time imagining t

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

[KD4PBC]

Oh and it's not linear.

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 5:29 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

 

Only needs the 13.8 and a power control voltage. 

 

Robert / KD4PBC

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kerincom
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 4:51 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

 


So the micor amps need 13.8 and 9volts as well?.I have seen one on there  

 

Thank You,

Ian Wells,

Kerinvale Comaudio,

361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715

Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932

www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au <http://www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au/> 

 

---Original Message---

 

From: George Henry <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

Date: 10/10/2008 4:23:39 AM

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

 

Micor and MSR2000 amps show up on E-Bay fairly often...  1/2 watt in gets
you 110 out, needs 13.8 and 9.2 - 9.6 volts.

Check the model numbers or pix:  there are intermittent (shallow heat sink
fins, partway across) and continuous duty (deep heat sink fins, all the way
across) models!

 

 

George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413

 

 

- Original Message 
From: Kerincom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2008 11:40:46 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp


 

Hi guys .Would anyone know where I can get a 100 watt uhf commercial amp
450-500mhz in Australia or us

Thank You,

Ian Wells,

Kerinvale Comaudio,

361 Camboon Road.Biloela. 4715

Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932

www.kerinvalecomaud <http://www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au/>  io.com.au

 




 




 

 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

[KD4PBC]

Only needs the 13.8 and a power control voltage. 

 

Robert / KD4PBC

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Kerincom
Sent: Thursday, October 09, 2008 4:51 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

 


So the micor amps need 13.8 and 9volts as well?.I have seen one on there  

 

Thank You,

Ian Wells,

Kerinvale Comaudio,

361 Camboon Road.Biloela.4715

Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932

www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au <http://www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au/> 

 

---Original Message---

 

From: George Henry <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> 

Date: 10/10/2008 4:23:39 AM

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp

 

Micor and MSR2000 amps show up on E-Bay fairly often...  1/2 watt in gets
you 110 out, needs 13.8 and 9.2 - 9.6 volts.

Check the model numbers or pix:  there are intermittent (shallow heat sink
fins, partway across) and continuous duty (deep heat sink fins, all the way
across) models!

 

 

George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413

 

 

- Original Message 
From: Kerincom <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 8, 2008 11:40:46 PM
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Linear uhf amp


 

Hi guys .Would anyone know where I can get a 100 watt uhf commercial amp
450-500mhz in Australia or us

Thank You,

Ian Wells,

Kerinvale Comaudio,

361 Camboon Road.Biloela. 4715

Phone 0749922574 or 0409159932

www.kerinvalecomaud <http://www.kerinvalecomaudio.com.au/>  io.com.au

 




 




 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Help

[KD4PBC]

Use an odd multiple of a 1/4 wave. Remember to take into account the length
of the loops in the cavity. 

Robert / KD4PBC 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9wys
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 8:09 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Help

No problem on the link, Mike.  Glad it as the same stuff!

A 1/4-wave cable on an open circuit "introduces" a short...  If I remember
correctly (and I'm sure if I'm wrong others will correct me!) you need a
1/2-wave cable between cans.

Mark - N9WYS

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Mike Reed

Yes, it does have that marking. Appricate the link. Not to be redundant, is 
the length I need to use is 1/4 wave for connection to cavitys, right?
 73
 Mike - N7ZEF

- Original Message - 
From: "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 7:01 AM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Coax Help


Mike,

Are there any other markings on the cable?  Specifically, I'd be looking for
the following:
"FSJ1-50A"

This is 1/4" "Superflex" - about the same size as RG-8X...

Velocity factor for this (FSJ1-50A) cable is 84%
http://awapps.commscope.com/catalog/product_details.aspx?id=1342

Mark - N9WYS

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n7zef

 Howdy;
 I was given today 2 pieces of mini-hardline marked "Andrews Type
204909". It is the size of mini-8. I think this is 50 ohm, but what
would be the velocity factor of it? I want to use it to make lines for
146.7/146.1 and 443.3/448.3 between radio and cavitys. Putting on the
ends, does it take anything special, I would like to use solder on type
id I could.
 Appreciate any help I may get...
 73
 Mike - N7ZEF







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9:05 AM






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Portable Temporary Repeater

[KD4PBC]

Louis, 
Would it not be possible to use UHF or 900 ?
Small radios and duplexers. Higher gain for given antenna size.
Use something like a GE MVP and a small duplexer. 

On the power think about solar.

Just a thought. Good luck

Robert / KD4PBC

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Louis
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 10:45 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Portable Temporary Repeater

I apologize if this has been addressed previously, or even close!  Do
not have a substantial amount of time to complete this research!

Situation:  An event in a remote area, one hill top is well enough
that coverage at around 10 watts VHF for the repeater could cover most
of our Aid Stations, 2 with HT's, the other 3 with Portables at 25
watts or so, could get into the repeater!

In the past, we have used crossband UHF in, VHF out, and it worked ok!
Except for issues with a couple of HT's not being able to cut the
input out during transmit! My goal, is to design a lite weight, low
power consumption (i.e. fewest batteries possible, as the hill top is
only assessable by hiking or horseback!

What I have on hand:  

Single band 2m HT for receive
Single band Yaesu 2M FT2800R for transmit @ 12.5 watts!
Pair of homebrewed 2 m aluminum j-poles

Need to acquire:

simple controller - NHRC-2 looks workable!
batteries - based on estimated power consumption of final configuration!


Basically the question is:  at a 2 mhz seperation (odd split) on VHF
can one get away without using duplexers (cans), utilizing separate
rx/tx antenna's, spaced about 20 ft apart!  Without desense or other
issues!

Being such a remote area, and the nearest 2 meter repeater is well
over 50 miles away, and nowhere near these frequencies - 145.500
rx/147.500 out using a tone of 179.9, I do not see any interference
issues there!  

Observations, suggestions, and your crazy are appreciated!

Thank You,

K1STX






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor TPN1110A power supply parts ID

[KD4PBC]

Or you could junk the old supply. 
Go to a switcher and for the 9.6 use a 7809 with a diode in the ground
connection, 
Make sure you fuse and add the proper caps to the input and output of the
7809. 

You will just have saved the planet some greenhouse gasses 
Not to mention your electric bill. 

No if you decide not to do that let me know the part numbers that you need
and a shipping address as I am going to scrap some high power stations but
will save you the goodies that you need. 

73

Robert / KD4PBC

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Update on the MICOR Community Repeater project

[KD4PBC]

Mark, 

If I remember correctly. And it has been a while. 

The Motorola community repeater both the MSY (Motrac-Motran vintage)  and
the Micor

The PL came in the receiver and the master decoder would match it to an
active PL or DPL reed or codeplug. Then the station would repeat and the
same Pl from the receiver would be 
Passed via the reed of codeplug to the master decoder and then on to the
exciter via way of a filter board that was installed in the exciter where a
"normal" radip would have the PL or DPL encode board. It sounds like you may
be missing that filter board.
Is it there ? if not I suspect that you could use a regular duplex DPL
encoder board to buffer and pass the signal. 

As far as the master decoder the flow through the MSY and the Micors are
very similar. 
I do not believe that the MSYs ever had DPL. So it makes sense that the path
and the pass band for the MSY would be different from the Micor cutoff at DC
vas 67 or so Hertz.

The MSY board could be made to work I would guess if you had the schematic I
had a book on a MSY CR somewhere I will look and see if I can find it. 

HOWEVER I just bought a warehouse (I buy and sell communications equipment) 
That has a box of Micor cards in it. I thought of you. 
Send me the part number that you need and I will get one to you. 

Robert...

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Ge Mastr II Squelch

[KD4PBC]

Don't hack up a perfectly good radio (did I really say that about a GE ?)
Let's start over

Don't hack up a working radio just install an audio delay board. 

Problem solved !

If you hook it right before the squelch circuit it will take care of those
people that key and talk before that system has had time to set up. 

Robert 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of k6jsi
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 6:35 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Ge Mastr II Squelch

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "kb5vjy" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> 
> I have just put my second Mastr 2 repeater together and I would like
> to see if anyone has any input in the squelch circuit.  I noticed on
> both of them that when users un-key their radios, there is about a
> half second white noise burst.   I have preformed the M2 Squelch
> circuit modification by adding a 4.7uf at 35v cap c630 and replacing
> c631 (the second unit had c631 clipped out)

Hi There,

Bite the bullet and install a Micor Squelch Board, like the RLC-MOT.  
You'll be glad you did.  And no more squelch crashes.

Shorty, K6JSI







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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ROIP interfaces

[KD4PBC]

Look at the chips used in common ATA I like the PAP2T from Linksys (now
Cisco) .

 

It's just like any other interface use the off hook and ring or reverse
battery like your E&M 

 

On the "Trigger Base" you could configure the ATA for "hot dial"  where it
would connect upon off hook.  

 

Hope this helps

 

Robert.

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gareth Bennett (Ihug)
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 5:15 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ROIP interfaces

 

Hi Walter, 

Actually we are evaluating ROIP products for a major dealer network
where my job is purely RF engineering for OEM compatibility.

Granted, I am casting a rather wide net here on a fact finding mission to
see if the group is aware of any other brands that I had not covered. As for
pricing, we will be dealing at OEM level, so its a volume issue as well as
features and performance.

 

In NZ we refer to a trigger base as a semi duplex radio (On Mobile
Frequencies) that is mounted at a fixed location. Often these are line
controlled via E&M, or in our instances ROIP.

 

Hope this helps?

 

Regards

 

Gareth Bennett

 

 

- Original Message - 

From: ka1jfy   

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 7:41 AM

Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: ROIP interfaces

 

What do you consider a "reasonable price"?
And what features are you specifically looking for them to have?

BTW, what is a 'trigger base'? A control station?
[I love when IT guys try to do radio]

Walter KD7BJJ

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gareth Bennett \(Ihug\)" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello Group, 
> 
> I am looking for options for ROIP interfaces that can be interfaced 
to base stations. I am aware of the major brands such as Omnitronics, 
Telex/Vega, CSI and Raytheon/JPS. 
> Are there any other vendors out there that do a decent stand 
alone ROIP interface unit at a reasonable price?
> 
> We are OEM suppliers and are looking for possibly two tiers of 
unit, one that can provide regenerated CTCSS (High end tier) and a 
more basic unit for possible trigger base applications that we can 
integrate into our own systems.
> 
> Does anybody have any suggestions or recommendations?
> 
> Wishing you all the very best
> 
> Gareth Bennett
>

 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Community Tone board question

[KD4PBC]

You can address the "running the light" issue by programming the radios with
busy channel lockout - prevents the mobile from keying unless channel is
open of their tone is being encoded. Only problem is interference will keep
you from transmitting. 
Busy tone lockout is a better choice only prevents the mobile from
transmitting if there is tone or DPL active. Assuming that the radios are
newer and have either. 

Robert...


-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Brian Poellnitz
Sent: Thursday, September 25, 2008 1:28 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Community Tone board question

Hi Peter,

The tone panel's function is to let each group hear their own users, but 
it doesn't prevent someone from "stepping on" someone else when the 
repeater squelch is already open (as it is when a valid user is 
talking).  Most radios have an activity light that will indicate if the 
channel is in use.  Motorola (and probably other) mobiles usually go 
into "monitor" when the mic is taken off-hook, so anyone already using 
the repeater would be heard.  I guess you'd say the panel is a "traffic 
cop" but it won't keep someone from "running the light".

Hope that made sense.  Hihi. :)

73's de N4BWP
Brian

Peter Dakota Summerhawk wrote:
> I think I know the answer to this but I am going to confirm it. The
> community tone board only filters out what talk group you don't want to
> hear. And it won't let you if you have multiple groups on the same pair
talk
> over each other. Am I correct on this? The reason I ask is that we have
> several groups that want to be on the same pair but want different PL's
but
> the machine wont let two people with different pairs talk at the same time
> if I am not mistaken. We only have one pair for this site (VHF) and they
> want several talk groups for grounds, maintenance, banquets, housekeeping,
> ad the front desk.
>
> Let me know of I am right on this or if I am being crazy.
>
> Thanks
>
> Peter
>
>
>   






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Update on the MICOR Community Repeater project

[KD4PBC]

Motorola could do it all ! Just put SP after the model. 

Once worked on a GSA SP Micor that would turn on the coffee pot in the
morning. 

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Milt
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 5:59 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Update on the MICOR Community Repeater
project

The Diode Logic Module and Multiple TPL Encoder cards would only have been 
used if someone wanted to RX one PL code and TX another, ie crosscoding, a 
rare beast indeed but Moto had the capability...

Milt


- Original Message - 
From: "wd8chl" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 5:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Update on the MICOR Community Repeater 
project


> Joe Burkleo wrote:
>> Mark,
>> Sorry to hear that you are still fighting this problem.
>>
>> I think we were on the right track when this kinda ended last month,
>> in that what you need to find is a Motrac series community repeater
>> manual that might show the TLN5803A Master Decoder. I have not been
>> able to turn one up yet.
>>
>> I do have one question for you about the original configuration in
>> these stations. Did they originally have a Diode Logic and a Multiple
>> TPL Encoder card installed in them? I am sure you have answered this
>> question already, but I really do not remember.
>>
>
> I have never seen those cards in any Micor CR's I looked at, so I'm
> certain they are not necessary.
>
> I think the right path is that he has MSY Master decoder cards, and I
> know they are not directly compatible. But I think they can be modded...
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Update on the MICOR Community Repeater project

[KD4PBC]

Correct for the Micors as well. Exception was when it has the transcode
option. 

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wd8chl
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 5:08 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Update on the MICOR Community Repeater
project

n9wys wrote:
> Eric, 

> For everyone: At one point, Eric referred me to an eBay auction, listing
> among other things a Master Decoder card of the same part number as the
ones
> I have.  Those cards were in an MSY chassis... which makes me wonder if
> there is a fundamental difference on the MSY-version versus the
> MICOR-version of this card.  My examination of the card leads me to
believe
> this is the case, I just need to verify this.

While I'm not as sure on the Micor, I am ABSOLUTELY positive the MSY 
community repeaters split the PL tone out of the rx audio, 
buffered/gated/amplified, and re-transmitted the incoming PL tone from 
the mobile. It did NOT have a separate PL encoder.





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RE: [Repeater-Builder] VHF and UHF repeaters on one antenna

[KD4PBC]

Mike, 

You can get by with the Ham grade CBC but on a repeater I prefer to see a
commercial quality unit like a TX-RX or Decibel Products. I know that I have
loads of UHF/900 ones I'll have to check on UHF/VHF.

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Naruta AA8K
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 10:10 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VHF and UHF repeaters on one antenna

I've been running an MSR-2000 on a
Tram 1481 antenna on 146.72 with
a Sinclair Q2330E duplexer and it
works fine.

I just got a retired Motorola UHF
repeater (C64RCB-3105AT) with a
Sinclair Q-306D duplexer and was
wondering if I could use both
repeaters on the same antenna.

Would I be able to get away with a
ham-type VHF/UHF "duplexer" like
a Comet CF-4160K?

Has anyone done this?  How bad is
the desense?  Can the Comet and
Tram take the power?  What other
problems happen?


Mike






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RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 9.6v power?

[KD4PBC]

Works great. Make sure you have filters and bypass caps on the 7809. 

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Thomas Oliver
Sent: Friday, September 26, 2008 11:57 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 9.6v power?

Maybe you could use a fixed 9 volt three terminal regulator and lift the
ground through a diode?  Should give you 9.6 I think.

tom


> [Original Message]
> From: skipp025 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Date: 9/26/2008 11:19:13 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR-2000 9.6v power?
>
>
> I'm in the process of converting a number of MSR-2000 repeaters 
> over to using switching power supplies (I'm paying the electric 
> bill). I've asked one or two people who have already completed 
> the task and they reportedly used adjustable 3-terminal regulators 
> on well heat sinked mounts for the 9.6 vdc supply. 
>
> s. 
>
>
> > George Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Since I have not yet succeeded in getting my hands on the MSR2000
> manuals, does anyone know offhand what the current draw is on the 9.6
> volt supply?  Looking to build my own...
> > 
> > Thanks in advance!
> > 
> > 
> > George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
> >
>
>
>
> 
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>






Yahoo! Groups Links

[Repeater-Builder] FS: GE 900 MHz net repeaters

[kd4pbc]

Hi all,

I have several GE Mastr ? 900 MHz repeaters.
I think that they are 100 watt they have what
looks like a local control shelf where the control cards 
normaly are. Also have an extra shelf on the top of the 
normal Mastr shelf. They come with the 28VDC power supply, 
cage, PA and that extra shelf. 

Traveling from New Orleans to Johnson City, TN so if your
on the way save shipping. 

$250.00 each. 

1st 4 sold get an extra waterloged repeater for parts.

call email with questions kd4pbc at yahoo.com

73

[Repeater-Builder] Motorola 1504 UHF Duplexers

[kd4pbc]

Have several for sale, sold as is, unchecked.

$150 each paypal only

423 791 2823

RE: [Repeater-Builder] db 4060 high band

[KD4PBC]

Don't forget to figure the velocity factor of the cable you use. 

Robert...

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric Lemmon
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 11:46 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] db 4060 high band

Joel,

When you fabricated the jumper cables, did you consider the length of the
coupling loops that are inside each cavity?  Depending upon the loops used,
the jumper cable itself might need to be shortened by 10 to 12 inches, so
that the overall length including the loops on each end adds up to 1/4
wavelength.  When the jumpers plus the loops on each end are the correct
length, the total notch depth should be fairly close to the sum of the
individual cavity notches.  Since that did not happen in your case, I'm
betting that the jumpers need to be shortened to account for the loop
lengths.

73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Joel Hall
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 6:20 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] db 4060 high band

Hope some of you guys that have some experince with db 4060 duplexer,the
pass is fine but the notch is the problem I can see the notch at around 35db
on my ifr 1600s per each can but when i combine them together about 50db is
the best i can get I have new cables made 1/4 wave long , the tuning caps
seem a little flakey may have had been hit with a lightning surge.
I have not taken them apart yet so any thoughts?
 
Thanks kj4si






Yahoo! Groups Links

[Repeater-Builder] New Orleans 440 Repeaters

[KD4PBC]

Hi all, 


Does anybody know if 
444.975
444.950
444.925
444.900

Is used in the Hammond, LA area ?
I have forum several listings but none seem to be up to date.
I'm trying to take a 440 machine down to the Louisiana Renaissance Festival
(www.larf.org) for local hams. 
And I going before I have a frequency. I want to stay in the upper end of
the band so I can put it on the onsite combiner. 

Any help ?

Thanks Guys
Robert / KD4PBC

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Looking for DTMF encoder...or suggestions

[KD4PBC]

Use a resistor and cap to inject bias on the mic line. 

Robert...

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> At 10:47 AM 09/03/08, you wrote:
> >I am constructing one of the "repeater-builders friends'", and am in
> >need of a DTMF pad, or suggestions. I have a Motorola DTMF mic that I
> >picked up from someone @ work. I have tried it direct into the
> >controller, through a pot, and through an amplifier w/ a matching
> >transformer on it. The controller is an ARCOM 210 and it does not
> >seem to be picking up the tones no matter what I try. The controller
> >is brand new, and was purchased assembled and tested, so I can only
> >assume that it is fully functional.
> >
> >Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
> >
> >Jeremy
> >
> >KB3BAM
> 
> Check out 
> 
> I've used the PK3  a couple of times:
> 
> 
> Good stuff.   Joe Oliveira is good people.
> 
> Mike WA6ILQ
>







Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

I've tried that and they come out red. 

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of George Henry
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:26 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions


- Original Message - 
From: "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:36 AM
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions


>[snip]
> Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there
> again today hopefully in daylight and will try again.
>
>
>
> Robert


You can always try covering half of the flash "lens" with your finger to 
reduce the flash output for close-ups...


George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 






Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

1500 volts at 1 amp is the same as 1500 amps at 1 volt = 1500 watts only
difference is 1 amp requires a small wire and 1500 amps a BIG wire. 

Power is power no matter how you get there.

There should be a plug coming from the low voltage supply to the upper left
(from back) of the control chassis. 
On the upper right there should be another plug with quite a few wires on
it. 

Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there
again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. 



Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:44 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

Thanks Robert, I am going out into the shack tonight, I think I am 
going to trace each wire and see just where they go, this should 
hopefully help me find a home for each one.  I lloked at TB1 where 
some of the wires goes, says they should come from the PA, but then 
they don't exactly correspond to the points listed on the PA.

Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, 
but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it 
would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have 
at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better.  How 
do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires?

Mathew


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mathew, 
> It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and 
output with
> so239 connectors. 
> I'll include pictures of that also. 
> It still looks good to get to shop today. 
> 
> Robert..
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> 
> Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are 
> referring to.  I just remembered, I have another one of these same 
> amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a 
> spare.  Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like?
> 
> Mathew
> 
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> >
> > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. 
> > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That 
> should not
> > be a big problem. 
> > Just stay within the limits of the tube. 
> > 
> > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in 
> the PURC
> > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. 
> > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a 
big 
> wire
> > wound mother. 
> > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you 
> remove the
> > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side 
> (from front) 
> > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans 
> on the 2
> > heat sinks. 
> > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. 
> > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after 
> we added
> > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 
more 
> years. 
> > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an 
> average of 18
> > to 20 hours a day.  
> > 
> > Robert..
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> > 
> > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same 
> purpose 
> > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the 
> unkey 
> > of the mic?
> > 
> > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz 
> and 
> > not be spurious?  I am sure there will be a reduction in power, 
but 
> > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy.
> > 
> > Mathew
> > 
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> > >
> > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the 
DC 
> > transfer
> > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. 
> > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. 
> > > 
> > > Robert..
> > > 
> > > -Original Message

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

Mathew, 
It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with
so239 connectors. 
I'll include pictures of that also. 
It still looks good to get to shop today. 

Robert..

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are 
referring to.  I just remembered, I have another one of these same 
amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a 
spare.  Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like?

Mathew


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. 
> The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That 
should not
> be a big problem. 
> Just stay within the limits of the tube. 
> 
> There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in 
the PURC
> and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. 
> The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big 
wire
> wound mother. 
> The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you 
remove the
> rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side 
(from front) 
> You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans 
on the 2
> heat sinks. 
> It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. 
> We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after 
we added
> the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more 
years. 
> These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an 
average of 18
> to 20 hours a day.  
> 
> Robert..
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> 
> If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same 
purpose 
> as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the 
unkey 
> of the mic?
> 
> Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz 
and 
> not be spurious?  I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but 
> if I get 300 watts out I would be happy.
> 
> Mathew
> 
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> >
> > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC 
> transfer
> > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. 
> > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. 
> > 
> > Robert..
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> > 
> > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch.  As for the 
> cards 
> > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the 
> Station 
> > Control.  I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and 
> squelch 
> > card, but was told they were not needed.
> > 
> > Mathew
> > 
> > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Mathew, 
> > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and 
the 
> > one with a
> > > tracer is the CT. 
> > > 
> > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what 
would 
> > have been
> > > the rear door interlock. 
> > > 
> > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take 
> > pictures and
> > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. 
> > > 
> > > What cards do you have in card cage ?
> > > 
> > > Robert
> > > 
> > > -Original Message-
> > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM
> > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and 
questions
> > > 
> > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and 
please 
> > bear 
> > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales 
> me.
> > > 
> > > TPN1132A - LV PS
> > > T

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. 
The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not
be a big problem. 
Just stay within the limits of the tube. 

There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC
and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. 
The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire
wound mother. 
The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the
rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) 
You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans on the 2
heat sinks. 
It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. 
We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added
the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. 
These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18
to 20 hours a day.  

Robert..

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose 
as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey 
of the mic?

Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and 
not be spurious?  I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but 
if I get 300 watts out I would be happy.

Mathew


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC 
transfer
> for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. 
> Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. 
> 
> Robert..
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> 
> I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch.  As for the 
cards 
> in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the 
Station 
> Control.  I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and 
squelch 
> card, but was told they were not needed.
> 
> Mathew
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> >
> > Mathew, 
> > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the 
> one with a
> > tracer is the CT. 
> > 
> > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would 
> have been
> > the rear door interlock. 
> > 
> > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take 
> pictures and
> > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. 
> > 
> > What cards do you have in card cage ?
> > 
> > Robert
> > 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM
> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> > 
> > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please 
> bear 
> > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales 
me.
> > 
> > TPN1132A - LV PS
> > TPN1131A-1 HV PS
> > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE
> > TLN4727A - RECEIVER
> > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER
> > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS
> > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER
> > 
> > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of 
what 
> I 
> > can.  Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of.
> > 
> > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, 
> some 
> > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight 
> > forward.
> > 
> > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier.
> > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another 
> > name, regardless the colors are:
> > 
> > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire)
> > Brown/Green
> > 
> > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached 
> inside 
> > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them 
in, 
> > I'm thinking possibly safety switches.
> > 
> > White
> > White/Black
> > Brown/White
> > Black and Dark Grey together
> > Solid grey
> > Brown/Yellow
> > 
> > These wires have ring terminals on them
> > 
> > Red/Green
> >

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer
for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. 
Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. 

Robert..

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch.  As for the cards 
in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station 
Control.  I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch 
card, but was told they were not needed.

Mathew

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mathew, 
> Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the 
one with a
> tracer is the CT. 
> 
> I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would 
have been
> the rear door interlock. 
> 
> Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take 
pictures and
> notes on a complete station I have at the shop. 
> 
> What cards do you have in card cage ?
> 
> Robert
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
> Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
> 
> Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please 
bear 
> with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me.
> 
> TPN1132A - LV PS
> TPN1131A-1 HV PS
> TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE
> TLN4727A - RECEIVER
> TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER
> TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS
> TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER
> 
> I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what 
I 
> can.  Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of.
> 
> Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, 
some 
> of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight 
> forward.
> 
> From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier.
> There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another 
> name, regardless the colors are:
> 
> Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire)
> Brown/Green
> 
> These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached 
inside 
> the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, 
> I'm thinking possibly safety switches.
> 
> White
> White/Black
> Brown/White
> Black and Dark Grey together
> Solid grey
> Brown/Yellow
> 
> These wires have ring terminals on them
> 
> Red/Green
> Red/Yellow
> Red/White
> Two Grey Together
> White/Green
> Solid Grey
> 
> There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the 
> Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering 
panel, 
> only an assumption.
> 
> Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from 
> the harness. 
> 
> Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am 
> sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter.
> 
> The other wires are:
> 
> Brown/White
> Brown/Yellow
> Tan/Black
> Red/Yellow
> 
> And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I 
do 
> believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as
> follows:
> 
> TB1-3 = Blue
> TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow
> TB1-2 = Blue
> TB1-7 = Yellow
> TB1-5 = Yellow/Green
> TB1-6 = Yellow
> 
> Thanks for the help
> 
> Mathew
> 
> 
> Going to make another assumption here, there should be no 
difference 
> in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be 
> reversable between either TP1 points?
> 
> And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote:
> >
> > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got 
left.
> > 
> > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires 
go. 
> > How are you on the harness ?
> > 
> > Robert
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>







Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

Mathew, 
Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a
tracer is the CT. 

I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been
the rear door interlock. 

Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and
notes on a complete station I have at the shop. 

What cards do you have in card cage ?

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear 
with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me.

TPN1132A - LV PS
TPN1131A-1 HV PS
TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE
TLN4727A - RECEIVER
TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER
TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS
TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER

I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I 
can.  Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of.

Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some 
of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight 
forward.

>From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier.
There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another 
name, regardless the colors are:

Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire)
Brown/Green

These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside 
the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, 
I'm thinking possibly safety switches.

White
White/Black
Brown/White
Black and Dark Grey together
Solid grey
Brown/Yellow

These wires have ring terminals on them

Red/Green
Red/Yellow
Red/White
Two Grey Together
White/Green
Solid Grey

There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the 
Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, 
only an assumption.

Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from 
the harness. 

Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am 
sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter.

The other wires are:

Brown/White
Brown/Yellow
Tan/Black
Red/Yellow

And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do 
believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as
follows:

TB1-3 = Blue
TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow
TB1-2 = Blue
TB1-7 = Yellow
TB1-5 = Yellow/Green
TB1-6 = Yellow

Thanks for the help

Mathew


Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference 
in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be 
reversable between either TP1 points?

And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply

--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left.
> 
> I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. 
> How are you on the harness ?
> 
> Robert
>







Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left.

I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. 
How are you on the harness ?

Robert

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

Mathew, 
Just looked you up on QRZ.com.
Nice Shack looks like you may have some HV experience.

Still be careful !

Robert

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 9:47 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

WOW !

I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. 
First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater
that you know nothing about 
Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. 
Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified
repeater that has now a "KW" amp.

That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has
a frequency exciter, PA receiver...
 If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz
if the "B" was a "C" then that would be 
Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was
"D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz
If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then
806-960 MHz .

Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with
but should have been able to figure out with the manual. 

Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This
may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . 
But you have to live through it to learn. 

There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the
line voltage. 

Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was
made in 68 I think. 
Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to
help.
Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill
yourself, we will teach you. 

If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over
and just keep an eye on you. 
Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. 

Then have fun. 

The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. 
There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of
the transformer on the hi voltage supply 
To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12
Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element.

The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. 
If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on
the band. 

There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will
get to those.
You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where
you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. 
Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. 

Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even
the smartest person can save you life via email. 

Good luck, 
Robert / KD4PBC

 
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to 
TP1 on the high voltage amp.  This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright 
RT system with the KW amplifier.  Although I am told that the amp 
will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410.  The rest of 
the repeater has already been converted.  I will give a list of all 
the TLN parts tomorrow.  I do have the service manual on the system.  

I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for 
the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has 
several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go.  I want to 
get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to 
our frequency.  

I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater 
was struck by lightning last month and destroyed.  Thanks

Mathew


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mathew,
> Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The
> TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor 
series
> radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the 
power
> level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply 
you
> have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 
240V?
> 
> Joe - WA7JAW
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv"  wrote:
> >
> > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to 
the 
> > high voltage power supply and need some help.  I am looking at 
the 
> > manual, I think I have some of it figured out.  I am not sure 
th

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

[KD4PBC]

WOW !

I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. 
First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater
that you know nothing about 
Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. 
Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified
repeater that has now a "KW" amp.

That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has
a frequency exciter, PA receiver...
 If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz
if the "B" was a "C" then that would be 
Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was
"D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz
If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then
806-960 MHz .

Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with
but should have been able to figure out with the manual. 

Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This
may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . 
But you have to live through it to learn. 

There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the
line voltage. 

Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was
made in 68 I think. 
Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to
help.
Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill
yourself, we will teach you. 

If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over
and just keep an eye on you. 
Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. 

Then have fun. 

The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. 
There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of
the transformer on the hi voltage supply 
To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12
Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element.

The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. 
If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on
the band. 

There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will
get to those.
You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where
you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. 
Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. 

Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even
the smartest person can save you life via email. 

Good luck, 
Robert / KD4PBC

 
 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions

In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to 
TP1 on the high voltage amp.  This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright 
RT system with the KW amplifier.  Although I am told that the amp 
will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410.  The rest of 
the repeater has already been converted.  I will give a list of all 
the TLN parts tomorrow.  I do have the service manual on the system.  

I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for 
the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has 
several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go.  I want to 
get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to 
our frequency.  

I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater 
was struck by lightning last month and destroyed.  Thanks

Mathew


--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Mathew,
> Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The
> TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor 
series
> radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the 
power
> level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply 
you
> have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 
240V?
> 
> Joe - WA7JAW
> 
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv"  wrote:
> >
> > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to 
the 
> > high voltage power supply and need some help.  I am looking at 
the 
> > manual, I think I have some of it figured out.  I am not sure 
though 
> > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply.
> > 
> > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and 
running.  
> > Thanks.  
> > 
> > Mathew
> >
>







Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense

[KD4PBC]

John, 

 

You may try and program the repeater to another frequency and see if the
problem still there. 

Some radios will interact with the IF either transmitter  or receiver. 

This may be a long shot but if you are truly at your wits end then give it a
look. 

 

In scanners they would call these  birdies . 

Since it involves the transmitter I would in the transmit IF chain 1st. 

 

Good luck, 

Robert / KD4PBC

 

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 4:56 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense

 

Chuck, John Bob, Derek, Eric, Mike, JohnB, and Tom,

   Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. 

   The connectors appear to be perfect, and they check out with DC. 

   The cable on the RX side is double shielded RG142B/U. The cable on the TX
side is not marked with a complete designation. It says AWM Style 1354, but
there are many cables that are said to be UL AWM Style 1354. Some of these
are 75 ohm, some are 50 ohm. This cable is only six inches long. I plan to
replace this as soon as I can get RG400 or other suitable cable. BNC
connectors are used on both the RX unit and the TX unit. 

   I don't know what it means to have a feed through capacitor in series
with a control or audio or power cable. However, a capacitor to ground might
be good to get rid of stray RF.

   Pray if you are so inclined. Otherwise, hope we can make the physics
work. 

Thanks again,

JohnT

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey
Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 3:06 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense

 

I was wondering the same thing. Has someone added some wiring and
subsequently breached the integrity of the shielding effectiveness
somewhere? First thing to come to mind is controller interfacing and CTCSS
wiring.

 

Chuck

WB2EDV

 

- Original Message - 

From: John J. Riddell <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>  

To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com 

Sent: Sunday, August 31, 2008 2:43 PM

Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wits End -- Desense

 

John,  Make sure that every wire going in to the RX and TX box has a feed
thru cap in series

with it.

 

Also you might put a few small ferrite beads on each wire as well.

 

John VE3AMZ

 

 

[Repeater-Builder] Long Shot !

[KD4PBC]

Does anybody have a set of channel elements for a Micor repeater

On 464.1750 TX and 469.1750 RX ?

 

Thanks, 

Robert

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help- M-10 related

[KD4PBC]

Peter, 

Look here it will give you some guidelines

 

 

http://www.rfsolutions.com/duplex.htm

 

 

Robert / KD4PBC

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Peter Dakota
Summerhawk
Sent: Monday, August 25, 2008 11:46 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Need some help- M-10 related

 

OK, got the M-10's in the mail yesterday and will have to get them over to
the shop to program them. What I got for a freq spread is:

151.835 and 153.020 so I can t use a duplexer and will have to run a dual
antenna system. How far apart do I have to mount these to make sure they
work ok? I have a Motorola RICK to use and want to have the units programmed
for around 15 watts or so that way I don't burn out the radios when we
really need it. I am thinking that the 153.020 is going to be repeater input
and the 151.835 is the output. I will be running DCS on the system to avoid
problems with the system. The radios (CP200) are going to be programmed with
MDC1200 signaling as the supervisors carry a HT1250 so they can see who keys
up and if there are any problems.

I need some help on getting the antennas set up and I can program the rigs
for  the repeater use so no problem there.

 

Thanks

 

Peter Summerhawk-N0WRE

 

 

 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[KD4PBC]

John, 

Sounds like you have it under control. The RG-400 type if new most likely is
OK. It’s only after a few years that moisture will get in and cause a
non-linear junction and cause problems.

There are thousands of repeaters running just the same as you have and
working well. I really expect that you will find the problem with the
duplexer and nothing else. 

 

Good luck, 

Robert / KD4PBC  

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 12:09 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

Robert,

 

Thank you. Your suggestions are very reasonable. I hope to find a spectrum
analyzer to verify that the output of the repeater and PA are clean. 

 

I just had the duplexer tuned a few weeks ago but I realize this does not
guarantee that is it’s tuned properly now or that the duplexer has the
isolation that it is supposed to have. When it was tuned, there was no
careful check of the isolation. 

 

I have just replaced all the interconnecting cables with RG-400, one of the
types that has wide acceptance from Repeater Builder correspondents. I don’t
want to replace them with Superflex until other possibilities are exhausted.


 

Adding a circulator (isolator perhaps) to the output of the PA: I don’t
understand how this would help the de-sense. It would protect the PA from a
badly tuned duplexer. Hold on! Now that I re-read your email, I see that the
circulator would prevent a signal received at a close-by frequency from
mixing with the output of the PA. But wouldn’t the mixing already have taken
place in the duplexer?  Perhaps, being a passive component, the duplexer
can’t be the site of mixing?

 

Yes, I am becoming convinced that the duplexer we have is not up to the job.
I guess it would be good to get it on a vector network analyzer or other
suitable instrument to verify that its isolation is or is not adequate. 

 

Our frequency pair is 448.375 TX and 443.375 RX. I would have to check for
near-by repeater frequencies. I doubt that this is the problem though
because the 440 repeaters around here have a rather low duty cycle, and our
problem seems to be continuous. Also, we still have de-sense when testing
into a dummy load. 

 

Your suggestions and explanations are very helpful, Robert. Please stick
with us. Sooner or later we are going to get this repeater working properly.

 

John

AF4PD

Vienna Wireless Society

 

 

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

 

Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. 

This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more
than needed. 

 

1)  Verify clean output from TX and amp.

2)  Verify tuning on the duplexer. 

 Both of these are most likely fine. 

3)  Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex

4)  Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a
triple) 

5)  Replace duplexer with something from this century. 

 

I read the post about the spur from adding a cavity to the tx output . the
only way that should happed is if there is a problem in the amp in the 1st
place.  

Any RF that makes it back through the transmit side of the duplexer can mix
with your frequency and anything else that can get in there. An isolator is
like an RF diode with a drain. 

Anything that comes toward your  amp from the outside will be diverted into
a dummy load (drain)  to be burned off as heat. 

You did not say what frequency that you are operating on but how close in
frequency are the nearest repeaters ?

And example if is you are on 464.025 and there is another repeater on
464.050 then your duplexer no matter how good offers no protection itself
that would be the isolators job. 

 

I hope this was helpful and while yes I do have some stuff available my post
is to be helpful not sell stuff. 

 

Regards, 

Robert Mitchell

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

First a big thank you to Eric, David, Rodney, and Robert. It seems clear now
that a circulator is not what I need. I plan to re-tune a pass cavity and
put it on the TX side as suggested by Eric. David has warned of the
possibility that this can cause a spur that might interfere with another
system so I will try to have a spectrum analyzer look at the output.

 

Robert asked for some additional information. Here it is:

RG-400 (new) in the cabinet, RG-214 (new) to the Heliax feed line.

The RF environment is intense. I do

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[KD4PBC]

John, 

 

Assuming that the output of the repeater and amp are clean. 

This would be my suggestions do this in order to avoid spending any more
than needed. 

 

1)  Verify clean output from TX and amp.

2)  Verify tuning on the duplexer. 

 Both of these are most likely fine. 

3)  Replace all interconnect cables with ¼ of ½ superflex

4)  Add circulator to the output of Amp (dual at least maybe even a
triple) 

5)  Replace duplexer with something from this century. 

 

I read the post about the spur from adding a cavity to the tx output . the
only way that should happed is if there is a problem in the amp in the 1st
place.  

Any RF that makes it back through the transmit side of the duplexer can mix
with your frequency and anything else that can get in there. An isolator is
like an RF diode with a drain. 

Anything that comes toward your  amp from the outside will be diverted into
a dummy load (drain)  to be burned off as heat. 

You did not say what frequency that you are operating on but how close in
frequency are the nearest repeaters ?

And example if is you are on 464.025 and there is another repeater on
464.050 then your duplexer no matter how good offers no protection itself
that would be the isolators job. 

 

I hope this was helpful and while yes I do have some stuff available my post
is to be helpful not sell stuff. 

 

Regards, 

Robert Mitchell

 

 

From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Transue
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 11:37 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

First a big thank you to Eric, David, Rodney, and Robert. It seems clear now
that a circulator is not what I need. I plan to re-tune a pass cavity and
put it on the TX side as suggested by Eric. David has warned of the
possibility that this can cause a spur that might interfere with another
system so I will try to have a spectrum analyzer look at the output.

 

Robert asked for some additional information. Here it is:

RG-400 (new) in the cabinet, RG-214 (new) to the Heliax feed line.

The RF environment is intense. I do not know what all is transmitting, but
there are numerous antennas within 100 feet.

The repeater is a Yaesu Musen FTR-5410. It drives a Mirage PA to about 90
watts.

 

John Transue

 

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC
Sent: Wednesday, August 20, 2008 7:50 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

 

John, 

A couple questions.

What are you using for interconnect cables, antenna, feedline ?

Tell us something about the RF environment Hostile or not ?

What type of radio are you using ?

That Motorola duplexer is a very poor duplexer. With all the holes in them
after a few years they may generate more noise than the suppress. 

All interconnecting cables need to be superflex or some other solid shielded
cable. 

Any RG type cable the braided shield becomes illuminated and will cause
noise and if there is a non linear junction can produce intermod. 

Send me the details and I will try and make some suggestions. 

Robert / KD4PBC

 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] De-Sense and Circulator Question

[KD4PBC]

John, 

A couple questions.

What are you using for interconnect cables, antenna, feedline ?

Tell us something about the RF environment Hostile or not ?

What type of radio are you using ?

That Motorola duplexer is a very poor duplexer.  With all the holes in them
after a few years they may generate more noise than the suppress. 

All interconnecting cables need to be superflex or some other solid shielded
cable. 

Any RG type cable the braided shield becomes illuminated and will cause
noise and if there is a non linear junction can produce intermod.  

Send me the details and I will try and make some suggestions. 

Robert / KD4PBC

[Repeater-Builder] Combiners filters and the like

[KD4PBC]

Hi all, 

 

I have a large supply of:

Combiners

Filters

Isolators 

Interconnect cables

RX multicouplers 

VHF, 800 and 900 antennas. New and used. Small to monsters. 

 

Also a few MSF5000 and MTR2000. 

Tons of GE Master and Micor stuff

 

Lots of UHF, 800 and, 900

Some VHF 

Some mid band

Less low band 

 

Most every brand. 

Everything to get that repeater going. 

 

Call me of email me with your requirements. 

 

Robert Mitchell

(423)791-2823

,___ 

 

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Source.....

[KD4PBC]

You can't beat TX-RX systems. www.txrx.com

Custom made just for you . 

Robert / KD4PBC

-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Don Spivey
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2008 8:27 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Source.

Can anyone point me toward a good source for a new vhf duplexer?? No 
doubt there are many dealers still around, but from personal experience 
is there one that stands out regarding price and service??

I've operated vhf repeaters for 30 years now, one of my first is still 
on the air, same repeater, still used daily.  I have a prime location 
opening up and since it's on a public service tower, I need a good 
duplexer.

I have at least 4 or 5 Sinclair and Wacom's setting around, but all 
show signs of lightning, missing silver plating, missing finger stock, 
etc. One of these would be fine with some TLC for a lower power 
neighborhood machine but not a repeater that is expected to be there 
for Emergency Management issues at maximum range. Thanks for any 
information provided.de...N5MZQ...Don..






Yahoo! Groups Links

RE: [Repeater-Builder] Hustler G6 440mhz

[KD4PBC]

ANY Ham grade antenna should never be installed in a commercial environment.


They are cheap for a reason.

Go with a Decibel Products, Celwave, ASP or, Scala. 
The problem you get into with used antennas is that they are usually
450-460, 460-470 or, 450-470
The 450-460 will normally work down into the lower part of 70cm but they are
hard to find.
The 460-470 is a looser all the way around for ham use. 
Some of the 450-470 antennas will work for most of the band but may lose
gain (and exhibit some down tilt) lower down the 70cm band.  

There was a lot of paging, Mobile telephones and, air to ground out there
before (454.025 to 454.950)
Paging died, cellular killed IMTS and, air to ground went to 900MHz. some of
these antennas were ordered frequency specific and will work well. 

Also Radio stations use RPU (Remote PickUp) on 450 and 455 if you find one
of the 450s you hit a home run. 

Antennas that I have used that work well.

DB-410(old) or 420(newer) are exposed dipole arrays they and any antenna in
that family (DB-408,DB413)
Work good down to about 443.000 then they lose gain. 

ASP705K made by ASP works well to about 443.000 as well. Lower that that
they lose gain and exhibit down tilt. 

PD-455 and most of the Phelps Dodge, Celwave or RFS antennas in the 450-460
versions works down to 441.000 or so. (PD-455-5 IS 440-450, PD455-6 id
450-460)

PD-1151-2 HOME RUN this is a 440 to 450 antenna

PD-1151-3 is a 450-460 and works about the same as the PD-455

Just test an antenna before you install it find a buddy at any paging
company and get him(or her) to sweep it for you. That way you will know
where it works and where it won't.

Hope this is helpful. 

Robert / KD4PBC

[Repeater-Builder] Kenwood TKR-830

[KD4PBC]

 I have a TKR 830 UHF Kenwood Repeater Excellent shape.

This is the model before the TKR 840 factory says it has the same 

same specifications as the TKR840 except does not do NRZ paging 

and the inputs/outputs are fixed. 

$750.00 shipped to your door (lower 48 only) elsewhere email for shipping 

Robert Mitchell