[Repeater-Builder] Re: MOTAROLA - M2170
Thank you Richard, The LM 741 brought the MITREK back to life again, the power control circuit uses the op amp as a simple voltage comparator. What was confusing me was the radio has pin 8 of the op amp grounded and the datasheet for LM 741 show pin 8 not connected internally. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Richard" wrote: > > The 5184621K70 cross references to 5184320A13. As a generic, its an LM-741 > op-amp. > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "ac6vj" wrote: > > > > > > > > Hi Gang, > > > > I am looking for a Motorola M2170 8 pin DIP IC or a cross reference for it. > > It is used in a Mitrek transmit power control circuit. > > > > Gregory AC6VJ > > >
[Repeater-Builder] MOTAROLA - M2170
Hi Gang, I am looking for a Motorola M2170 8 pin DIP IC or a cross reference for it. It is used in a Mitrek transmit power control circuit. Gregory AC6VJ
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Out Door Radio Cabinet
The cabinets come with the card cages, but alas, no cards.
I wish they did come complete so I would have one to play with myself.
Gregory AC6VJ
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Maire-Radios"
wrote:
>
> have any traffic controllers?
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: ac6vj
> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Monday, June 28, 2010 12:41 PM
> Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Out Door Radio Cabinet
>
>
>
>
> Hi Larry,
>
> I have a stash of traffic signal boxes here in Northern California.
> I donate them free of charge to any good Ham cause.
>
> AC6VJ {ac...@...}
>
> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Watkinson"
> wrote:
> >
> > I am looking for a outdoor radio cabinet, something like a traffic control
> > box.
> >
> > I am in Olympia and would be able to go within 100 miles of Olympia, WA. I
> > could pay shipping to Olympia if outside of 100 miles.
> >
> > Larry KC7CKO
> >
>
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Out Door Radio Cabinet
Hi Larry,
I have a stash of traffic signal boxes here in Northern California.
I donate them free of charge to any good Ham cause.
AC6VJ {ac...@cds1.net}
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Larry Watkinson"
wrote:
>
> I am looking for a outdoor radio cabinet, something like a traffic control
> box.
>
> I am in Olympia and would be able to go within 100 miles of Olympia, WA. I
> could pay shipping to Olympia if outside of 100 miles.
>
> Larry KC7CKO
>
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 3' motorola or GE cabinet wanted.
Paul, I have some aluminum traffic signal boxes that are 5 1/2 feet tall 20 inches wide and 3 1/2 feet deep. Here in Northern California that are just perfect for outdoor repeater cabinets. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Paul Plack" wrote: > > Larry, are any of your cabinets outdoor types? I'm in Salt Lake City, but > have relatives near you who could pick up & store, and might be interested. - > Paul, AE4KR > > - Original Message - > From: larryjspamme...@... > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 1:43 PM > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] 3' motorola or GE cabinet wanted. > > Too bad you're so far away (I'm in Portland, OR). I'm just getting ready > to list some on the local craigslist - my garage is overflowing and some cars > need the space. I have some of the deep Quantar/MICOR type cabinets - the > short ones, medium height, and 5-foot tall ones. And one - 40" tall GE MASTR > II Cabinet. All of the Motorola cabinets are the deep ones that would hold > repeaters with duplexers, etc. IF they don't sell locally, they're off to the > metal scrapper. > > Larry >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer parts
Gary, Try Viking Technologies LTD. at www.cardwellcondenser.com they have a very large selection of Johnson, series 167 capacitors and will be able to give you the exact specifications on the broken one that you have. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Gary Hoff wrote: > > I already found that one, thanks anyway, the 167-205 is close but not enough > plates, mine has 6 rotor and 6 stator. Physical size is right though, > maybe this > cap was made by Johnson also since the numbers are close. > Gary > > On 4/15/2010 1:59 PM, DCFluX wrote: > > > > http://www.surplussales.com/Variables/ButterflyCapacitors/ButCap1.html > > <http://www.surplussales.com/Variables/ButterflyCapacitors/ButCap1.html> > > > > (CAV) 167-205-71 sounds close to it. > > > > On Thu, Apr 15, 2010 at 11:59 AM, Gary Hoff > <mailto:k7ney123%40q.com>> wrote: > > > I have an old Phelps Dodge VHF Duplexer that has a > > > frozen air variable. The Duplexer is a part# 499-509 and > > > covers 144-174. The air variable in question is stamped > > > 167-202 and is split stator about 1 3/8" square. Anybody > > > know where I might find a suitable replacement, I haven't > > > had any luck where I've been looking. > > > Gary K7NEY > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Radio conversion to 225MHZ
J and the Group, I have a converted MICOR mobile one 220 with a Toshiba amplifier module in it set to 15 W out driving a TE Systems 2206RN amplifier with 65 W out. In Skipps vault on Mt. Vaca and it has been working flawlessly since its installation, four years ago. The TE Systems, amplifier was not cheap, but when you take into account that I have not had to go up to the top of the amount in four years to work on it, it's a great deal. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "K5IN" wrote: > > Kevin, > > > Any suggestions for a decent quality 220mhz amp for repeater duty? > > Micor 20-25 watts drive or pull the PA and exciter in and 50-60 watts > output? > > > Thanks > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Custer > Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 5:57 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Radio conversion to 225MHZ > > > > J wrote: > > Has anyone converted any of the commercial (GE/Motorola) radios to the 220 > band? If so what works and what doesnt. I need several 225 radios and > thought this might be a route to go. > > I have converted MASTR II Mobiles, both multiplier and PLL exciter, with > standard receivers to 220 MHz. - they work fine, the PLL is easier. > There are preferred instructions on the MASTR II conversion site: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/geindex.html#220 > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/geindex.html#220> > > For the M2 with a PLL exciter, Scott sells a complete conversion kit: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/MIIconversionkit.html > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/MIIconversionkit.html> > > The PA's won't convert, but there is an easy fix: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html> > > I have converted MICOR Mobiles and Stations to 220 MHz. - they also work > fine. There are preferred instructions on the MICOR conversion site: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#220 > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/rbtip/micor-index.html#220> > Helical Resonators modified for 220 operation are available here: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/> > > The PA's won't convert, but again - never fear, the amp board is the > solution: > http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/products/ampbd.html> > > Any of the above radios can be converted to 220 MHz and achieve book > specification sensitivity on the new band. My favorite is the MICOR. > > Hope this helps... > Kevin Custer >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: More on the Q2330 Duplexer
Hi Gang, I have two 2M repeaters made out of Micor Mobil's running 30W each. They both use Sinclair Q202G0-N Hybrid Ring [the model number you're looking for] with absolutely no desense. They are the bomb, but thay are a little bit of work to tune, the only problem with using the Q202G is that the plunger hits the bottom of the can at about 144.700 megahertz. - In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n3dab" wrote: > > The Q202 with the 7" dia cans would give you better results, i believe, > higher Q and all that. The hybrib ring type might be a PIA to retune but if > you have the 4 cans with the Tuning Capacitor in the Loop Assembly tuning > will be much easier and you should get 85 to 90 dB isolation per side. Not > sure what the complete model no. is but there are some on eBay in one of the > store listings (though the price is quite high for the Ham market). > > Doug N3DAB > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, David Struebel wrote: > > > > With all of this discussion, is either the Q202 or its cousins or the new > > Q2330 all with now 80 dB of isolation good enough for a 2 meter repeater > > with a 0.6 MHz split? Putting a new machine on the air and need to know > > if I should go with a 6 cavity duplexer to give me the 100 or so dB > > isolation, and albeit the higher insertion loss or can I stay with a 4 can > > duplexer with typically 85 dB isolation and 1.5 dB insertion loss? > > > > In a quandry... most of my experience is with a Sinclair hybrid ring > > duplexer which seems to work fine at a 25 watt level. > > > > > > 73 Dave WB2FTX > > - Original Message - > > From: John J. Riddell > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Wednesday, March 25, 2009 7:41 PM > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] More on the Q2330 Duplexer > > > > > > > > After checking the Sinclair Web site, I see that they have lowered the Tx > > - Rx isolation > > on the Q 2330 duplexer to 85 Db. > > The original literature that I had claimed 100 Db. > > > > 73 John VE3AMZ > > > > > > > > > > -- > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.29/2023 - Release Date: > > 03/25/09 18:54:00 > > > > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.30/2026 - Release Date: 03/27/09 > > 07:13:00 > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Micor newbie needs advice
Hi Mike, By the number of Micor's that you are talking about, I take them to be converted mobil's not Compa Stations. I have run into this trouble before on Micor mobil's, what I found to be the trouble is the interconnect board uses rivets instead of plated through holes and the solder joint at these rivets go bad. I inject a signal into the receiver's front-end, and then use an oscilloscope and probe along the traces on the interconnect board until I find the offending solder joint. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Besemer \(WM4B\)" wrote: > > Greetings all, > > I normally maintain a couple of 'out-of-the-box' (Kendecom) repeaters, but > recently I've been asked to help out with another system that is homebrewed > from Micors. It consists of 4 Micors (TX on 2 meters, RX on 2 meters, TX on > 440 and RX on 440) linked with a CAT-500 and a set of homebrew controls. > > Lately, the 2 meter RX has become intermittent. For a while, I'd been able > to either wiggle the plug on the front of the receiver or give the receiver > a good whack and it'd come back to life, but lately it's become more and > more obstinate. A couple of weeks ago, I brought the RX back to my shop and > pulled all the boards, cleaned the pins and did my best to look for obvious > problems. I really didn't see anything wrong, but when I reinstalled the > RX, it work fine and I thought (after it ran for a couple of weeks) I must > have fixed it. (I have no way of running it on the bench... so it was just > a plug-and-pray fix.) > > Unfortunately, it crapped out again a couple of days ago, and this time > reseating the plug and banging had no effect. One thing I did notice that > I'd not seen before (it's hard to access the rear of the repeater) is that > the plug (on the harness) is missing a piece of plastic surrounding the > three pins nearest the hinged side of the handle. I haven't had time to > pull up the drawings yet to see what those pins are, but I suspect that may > be at the heart of my problem. > > At any rate, I'd like to be able to run this beast on my bench. Where can I > come up with a harness and control, and what (if any) additional hardware > would I need to be able to get this thing hooked up? > > Second, IF the harness plug IS the problem, what's the best course of > action? Changing the plug looks like a real bugger. I haven't traced it up > to the homebrew controls yet, so I'm not sure how difficult it'd be to swap > out the entire harness (if I had one), but either way doesn't look like much > fun. > > 73, > > Mike > WM4B >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: OT maybe info wanted on 220 crystal rigs
Hi Ray: I have a pair of Midland, 13-509 radios which are the same as Clegg FM-76, I use for link radios. They are great radios, even though they're getting a little old, they are easy to work on, and many 220 repeaters have been made out of these radios. The two main drawbacks for using a Clegg FM-76 radio, is a pair of TX/RX crystals cost $30- $40 for each frequency pair, and the radio did not originally come with a TX PL board. So it does not take very long to have more invested in crystals and a PL board than a new synthesized radio costs. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Ray" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Anyone on the list know if its a good idea to purchase a good used > crystal controlled rig for use on 220 ? > > I'm wanting to get on that band,without a huge radio investment. > I saw Clegg FM-76 listed for sale,as an example. > > respond thru the list or direct. > > n3pyj at windstream.net > > > Ray >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: UHF MICOR Unified Chassis
Hi Mark: Pull the exciter board out and measure the resistance between pins one and five on the transmitter interconnect board. There should be infinite resistance between the two pins. If there is continuity between pins one and five on the transmitter interconnect board, cut the trace on the exciter board leading to pin five P902, see note 409 on the Exciter/1ST Bandpass Filter schematic pullout in the Micor Base and Repeater Station Manual 68P81025E60. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > OK gang, I'm working on another project and have run into a wall. > > I have a UHF MICOR Unified chassis station that I am reassembling with the > thought of putting it on GMRS once finished. Yes, this station was TOTALLY > disassembled and scattered to the four winds - chassis, PA and some cards > came from one place, more cards from another, yet more cards from yet > another place, power supply and cabinet from yet another... I have the > station reassembled to the point where it is operating in that it repeats > (keys up on receipt of signal and PL) but it does not pass audio. And yes, > I am resurrecting it on the freqs it was originally tuned before I make any > changes. Right now it's on 462./467. and has one 4-User Control > Module (PL decode) card in the chassis. No PL on TX yet... The station has > the following cards in the chassis (listed from right to left): > > Line Driver > Station Control Module > Squelch Gate > Time Out Timer > Master Decoder > 4-User Control Module Card > > Am I missing any other cards? > > I know these stations have jumpers all over the place - backplane, cards, > etc. - that all needed to be configured properly for the thing to work the > way it should. I have the manuals, but I am stumped. I know I'm missing > something, SOMEWHERE - my problem is: WHAT and WHERE? > > Besides, the manual's diagram for the backplane shows jumpers numbered in a > certain sequence and the backplane I have has them numbered differently - > they're in the same locations, but numbered differently. (For example JU1 > and JU3 are opposite when the manual is compared to the one I have in the > shack.) I've also gone to the Repeater-Builder web site, but those pages > seem to refer more to the conversion of the station or cards rather than > making it work "as designed." Maybe once I get it going, then I can think > about conversion of the cards that Kevin referenced... > > Anyway - as far as the backplane goes, I think all jumpers except for JU5 > should be OUT. Am I correct? (I currently do not plan on any remote > control of the station, but later down the road maybe tone remote > operation...) And what about the Line Driver, Squelch Gate and/or Station > Control Module cards jumpers? > > Any ideas? (Kevin, you're the MICOR guru...) > > Thanks, > Mark - N9WYS >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna mounting hardware
Ron: I have had great luck using U-Bolt-It,Inc. Http://www.uboltit.com/index.html out of Houston, Texas. They have a extensive inventory of large size hot dipped galvanized U-Bolts, I have also had them make me Slant U-Bolts and Hook Bolts to mount antennas, on angle iron cross braces. You did not mention how high up the tower you were going to mount your station master antenna, but no matter its height. You do not want to go up there very often, and using bent all-thread is a train wreck waiting to happen, due to the stress set up in the root of the thread on the stretch side when you bend the all-thread. All-thread has many good uses, but none of them are on a tower. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi all, > > I am about to put up a Telewave Super Station Master up over 1000 ft above ground on a large tower. > > The legs at that level are 5.25" and am in need of hardware for securing the top and bottom mounts to the legs. I have all except the leg mounting hardware. > > I've looked at Tessco and know they can be expensive, but will pay for it for this install if I have to. Does anyone know of a source or V-clamps or the like for 5.25" legs??? > > This has to be hardware that will last 20 years and not hose clamps which I have. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > 727-376-6575 > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > No tone, all are welcome. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 MHz. Amplifier?
Robin, I bought a TE Systems 220 repeater duty amplifier 18 months ago, and it has been working flawlessly since I received it. It is made out of the highest quality parts, to commercial standards, with a large heatsink. I looked at its output with a spectrum analyzer, and it is extremely clean. The only negative comment I can make about the amplifier is they lost it in their own warehouse for over three months after I had ordered. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Robin Midgett <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I have a friend who's looking for a 80 or so watt amplifier for his > 224.84 MHz. repeater. Is there a recommended product for this > application these days? Mods or kit building are welcomed, as are > leads on plug-n-play solutions. > > Thank you, > Robin Midgett K4IDC > VHF+ Glutton EM66se > 6, 2, 222, 432, working on the rest! >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: HELP - 3x Mitreks will Not Tune up for Repeater RX on 10mtrs.
Hello Kevin, It sounds to me like the Extender "noise blanker" is cutting back on your I.F. gain; it is probably set to your new L.O. frequency. In repeater service, you do not want to use the Extender. So make sure that jumper 301 is across the primary of T300 and jumpers 3A, 3B, and 3C are not installed on the interconnect board. The way to test to make sure that the extender is not cutting back your I.F. gain is to measure the voltage on the plus terminal of the C324. If it is around 6V the Extender is not cutting back the I.F. gain, but if it is around 4V the extender is cutting back the I.F. gain. A word of warning: the heatsink on the Mitrek is woefully undersized for 100% duty cycle and needs lots of forced air flowing over it. There is a lot of good information on Repeater Builders about cooling a Mitrek. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Gmail - Home" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi All, > > I am now in need a some big HELP. > > I have been trying to get our groups 10mtr repeater up and running, and it > seems to want to block me at each point. > I am very grateful for the help that has been given so far, and this has got > us to the point where we have 50% of the repeater running. > But as I said above, it appears that I have hit a block again. > I can not get the RX to tune anywhere down to the specs the radio says of > .3uV. The best I can do is 1.9uV. And this is the same for all 3 radios I > have. > > The radio were originally fitted with 33Mhz ICOMS, and I have now fitted > them with 29.540 ICOMS. They are tuning up, but not as good as I would > expect. > Our work radio techinian is even baffled as to the problem, and he has 3 > decades+ experiance. > > Checking the schmatic I notice there is no pre-amp on the RF input. I could > add a pre-amp here, and this would help. But before I go this route I am > asking if there is anything else I can do to get it (them) working better. > > FYI, I am using our companies radio workshop which has all the required > tuning and testing equipment for the aligniment. Be it not the Motorola > gear, but it does the job. > > I can't remember the model numbers, radios are still at work, but they > correspond to 60w, single channel, with extender fitted. > > My understanding from others within this group, these radios will tune down > to 29.540 without any trouble. > So, am I doing something wrong? (Not famillar with Mitreks here in NZ, never > made it this far downunder). > Are all 3 radios faulty? I can't see why, but maybe. > > Are there mods that are required that I have overlooked in all the > information I have onhand, from the many web-pages? > > Do I need to go to another type of radio? And if so, which one/s? Then does > anyone have one available? Or come to that, does someone have a tuned Mitrek > they can spare to sell (or donate). > > I will also post this on the repeater-builders user group just in case they > can help also. > > Thanks for any input, and if you wish to contact me directly, please e-mail > me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] Please remove the "-" in the gmail account, I try > and limit the spam I get. > > With the increase of 10mtr activity down here, have a listen for "ZL1HK" on > 29.64Mhz > > Regards > > Kevin, ZL1KFM. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mot? Lo-Band duplexers
Hi Scott, This is a DB4032 duplexer, and there is plenty of information on the Repeater Builders web page about moving these up to 6M. I have one on my 6M repeater, and it works great. Though 2dB of insertion loss is a bit high. But what you lose in insertion loss you gain in size compared to a full-size 6M duplexer that looks like it's made out of chunks of a telephone pole. It uses many UHF connectors in its construction, and I have found that if they are not extremely tight it will make the duplexer microphonic. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Scott Zimmerman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Anyone seen a set of these before? Any documentation available? Can they be used on 6M? > > I have never seen this type of duplexer They are marked with 37.98 as a frequency. The open port on the tees kinda makes me wonder. > > These are not mine. I can't lay hands on them personally. I am posting this for a friend, and out of general curiosity. > > Scott > . > Scott Zimmerman > Amateur Radio Call N3XCC > 612 Barnett Rd > Boswell, PA 15531 >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 10 meter split site
Hi Steve, I have 2 1/2 mile distance between my receiver and transmitter on my 10 meter repeater, and have no desense on the receiver. One of the important things is that the receiver has a high dynamic range. I am using a Micor receiver because of its ability to reject nearby signals. 100W is kind of high power for a local 10 meter repeater. >From your location 40 to 50W is plenty of power, at that elevation and should give you coverage from Redding to Fresno, and the lower power level will help on your receiver defense. Don't forget that your users will probably be using Radio Shack mobile radios that on a good day can barely make 25W, and there antenna is not as good as your repeater antenna. After all, you do not want to end up with an alligator, but with a balance system that matches your users ability. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Steve Allred <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I am in the process of building a 10 meter repeater and was wondering if I could get some help form you guys. > What is the "best" distance separating Tx from Rx on a split site repeater without creating a big disparity between "talk in vs talk out", yet still provide the needed isolation? I have tried to interpolate the DB horizontal isolation charts but with only minor success. I also have modified DB pass cans to cover 29 MHz, so I have some pass protection on the receiver and transmitter. Output will be in the 100 watt range to an lowband DB201. > > Any thoughts? > > Thanks! > Steve / K6SCA > > > - > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola Micor Unified Chassis
Hi Don, The quick answer is no yes no. The long answer is, On the low band Compa-Station the output power control Board samples the VSWR on the output and folds back, the gain of the pre-driver in the power amplifier when the VSWR gets too high compared to the current draw of the final transistors. On a low bay and mobile. The antenna matching board is used to adjust the VSWR on the output and there is a directional coupler that you can attach a test set meter to. But there is no feedback to the power amplifier. The power amplifier has a thermocouple which is located on the heatsink, that is connected to a relay that shorts out a winding in the coupling transformer between the driver and a final transistors. Thus reducing the drive to the final transistors when the heatsink gets too hot. The VHF Compa-Station and mobile radios use the same circuitry. Which is a directional coupler on a power control Board that samples VSWR on the output port and folds back the gain of the pre-driver in the power amplifier when the VSWR compared to the current draw of the final transistors gets to high. UHF Compa station and mobile radios use the same system, but wired a little differently. They sample the return of loss on the isolation port of the circulator and compare it to the current draw of the final transistors of power amplifier. If the return loss on the isolation port of the circulator gets too high compared to the current draw of the finals. The power control Board, folds back the gain on the predriver of the power amplifier chain. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > On the Motorola Micor Unified Chassis type repeater can anyone please > tell me if the Power Control Module is the same thing I would also find > in a Micor Mobile Radio? > > Thanks Don > > KA9QJG >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 220 link radios
To amplify on Skipp's statement about ADI radios, I have a 220 repeater in Skipp's vault on Mount Vaca, and I was using an ADI 220 radio to monitor it. It was on constantly for about six months; the display would become unintelligible, and the radio would stop transmitting. I would do a hard reset, and it would start working again; but it would lose all its programming. I finally gave up and purchased a new ALINCO a year ago and have been pleased with the radio, it just keeps percolating along. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > QST wrote a 224 MHz radio review a few years back and I had been > meaning to save it. Three or four of the available 224 MHz radios > were covered. Alinco, ADI, Kenwood, Icom and someone else... at > least. > > Alinco Radios have a pretty good reputation and my ham friend likes > to beat the snot out of his gear... yet it keeps on playing like > the day it was built. Of the two Alinco Radios that I know were > returned for service... both were fixed right the first time and > returned in a semi normal amount of time. > > ADI radios have had reports inbound about the display failing... and > no replacement. I have yet to confirm that report but I have heard > it from a number of people/places. But ADI radios are also sold for > really cheap prices. > > I've got a few Kenwood TM-331 radios and they work pretty good for > what they are. I also have and love my original 3530 Kenwood but it's > long out of production. > > The Icom IC-37a? is/was a very popular radio in its day... but had > reports of the PA Module failing in more than a few cases. If > you can find a used radio, simply throttle the power back and/or > run it on the low power setting. Nice compact size radio... > > The QST Magazine review was pretty good... in addition to the normal > ham band operation... one or two of the radios also provided a measure > of receive (only) frequency coverage well past the ham bands. One > radio model even included an AM detector, which I thought was pretty > neat. Just add a bfo and notch filter and you could listen into > SSB & ACSB trunking traffic (if there's any left out there...). There > might even be some special AM Aircraft traffic available well above > 224 MHz if the receiver will program more like a wide band scanner. > > cheers, > skipp > > > > > Jed Barton wrote: > > > Hey guys, > > > Any good radios to use for 220 linking? I know Alinco makes > > > the DR235, but the PL decoder stinks on it. > > > > http://www.irlpcables.com/AlincoTS64.html > > > > > Anything from tait or anything else to suggest? > > > I need a few of these. > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MICOR parts wanted
Whoops sorry fat fingers at work, I meant KXN1028 channel elements. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "ac6vj" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi, I'm looking for two KXN1082 channel elements and two low band hi hi > split receiver boards TLB6854 or TLB6864. Please let me know if you > have any you would like to sell and how much you want for them. > > Gregory AC6VJ > [EMAIL PROTECTED] >
[Repeater-Builder] MICOR parts wanted
Hi, I'm looking for two KXN1082 channel elements and two low band hi hi split receiver boards TLB6854 or TLB6864. Please let me know if you have any you would like to sell and how much you want for them. Gregory AC6VJ [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Department of Forestry Tower, Any Experiance???
Alexander, I just put up a 2 meter repeater with a link radio on a California Department of Forestry lookout tower. It took me more than two years to find the right person to get permission from, but once I was introduced to the division commander it was smooth sailing from then on. Besides free rent, the site includes free electricity. I did have to supply my own cabinet, which is an old traffic signal box. The tower is no longer used for a lookout, so I was able to mount directly to the handrail around the top of the tower with a 20 foot piece of galvanized pipe to get above the lookout shack, and mounted the link Yagi directly to the handrail. Gregory AC6VJ --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Alexander N Tubonjic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello All, > The local department of Forestry has an observation tower that is > over 200' off the ground. I would like to put my UHF Amateur repeater > on that tower. I stopped by yesterday and talked to the Fire Fighter > that was stationed there. He had told me that cellphone companies had > asked if they could put some equipment on the tower and the DOF flat > out said no; however, the guy I talked to said a friend of his was a > Ham and had expressed an interest in putting a Ham repeater on the > tower and it was okayed but the Ham moved before anything was put into > effect. The guy I talked with said to leave my contact information and > he would pass it on to his boss and have him contact me with more > information. >I was wondering if anyone has done anything tower related with the > Department of Forestry? If so what was your experiance like? I > remember reading somewhere that hams and the DOF have an MOU together > for tower space, anyone know anything about that? Any past experiances > and tips would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and 73. > Alexander KG4OGN Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] MOTORLA ID
Could someone please tell me what this MOTORLA consolette is E51JJB1490CM Thank you Gregory AC6VJ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Low Band MICOR
Does anyone have a MICOR Low Band Low Split or Medium Split thay would like to sell. Gregory Gordon AC6VJ ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
