[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
The tried at 110' was not enough signal, -80 dbm was best, at 120' we hit -72 dbm so that is where it had to go. What I am looking for is possibly a filter that will solve the problem and allow them both to survive on the same tower. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > At 11/20/2008 18:32, you wrote: > >About 5 feet from each other. > > > > > >--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "JOHN MACKEY" > >wrote: > > > > > > How close are the 2 meter repeater antenna and the 2.4G antenna? > > > > > Why does the Canopy antenna need to be so close to the top of the > tower? I'd try lowering it 20-40 ft. > > Bob NO6B >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
I'm in the country and the only way we could get a signal was from the top of the tower, as I am pulling service from 12 miles away. 50' would be well below the tree lines out here. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "G Shaw" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Why have the the WIFI at 120 feet on the tower for just use by your family. > Drop the WIFI to 50 feet and it would probably be fine for around the house > and yard on the WIFI and the repeater problem would go away most likely. > > Glenn N1GBY > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 9:41 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > <mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> , Ken Arck wrote: > > > > At 06:28 PM 11/20/2008, n9lv wrote: > > > > >It is opening and closing the receiver very quickly. You can actually > > >hear the pulsing of the wi-fi radio. > > > > > > <Ok, that is not intermod, that is pulses.. > > > > > > > > 2) Is this "wireless antenna" actually a radio/antenna > combination > > > > being fed power via POE (Power Over Ethernet) over a CAT5 cable > up > > >the tower? > > > > > >Yes, this is a wi-fi radio and antenna combination setup with cat5 > > >POE. I am not sure the brand, all i can see with what they showed > me > > >is something about Canopy. > > > > <---I'll bet the problem is the CAT5 radiating. Replace it with > > shielded CAT5 and your problem will go away > > > > Ken > > What is wild is that previously there was a 15db Tranzeo radio up there that > never offered any troubles with the repeater. > > I am going to disable the preamp and see if that helps the issue any. > > > -- > -- > > President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater > > controllers and accessories. > > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ <http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/> > > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete > > repeater packages! > > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 > > http://www.irlp.net <http://www.irlp.net> "We don't just make 'em. We > > use 'em!" > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.199 / Virus Database: 270.9.9/1803 - Release Date: 11/21/2008 > 9:37 AM >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > At 06:28 PM 11/20/2008, n9lv wrote: > > >It is opening and closing the receiver very quickly. You can > >actually hear the pulsing of the wi-fi radio. > > > <Ok, that is not intermod, that is pulses.. > > > > > 2) Is this "wireless antenna" actually a radio/antenna combination > > > being fed power via POE (Power Over Ethernet) over a CAT5 cable up > >the tower? > > > >Yes, this is a wi-fi radio and antenna combination setup with cat5 > >POE. I am not sure the brand, all i can see with what they showed me > >is something about Canopy. > > <---I'll bet the problem is the CAT5 radiating. Replace it with > shielded CAT5 and your problem will go away > > Ken What is wild is that previously there was a 15db Tranzeo radio up there that never offered any troubles with the repeater. I am going to disable the preamp and see if that helps the issue any. > -- > President and CTO - Arcom Communications > Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and > we offer complete repeater packages! > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 > http://www.irlp.net > "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jacob Suter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Are these units plugged into the same circuit? I'm guessing the wireless > internet gear installed has a dirty power supply or a large amount of > vhf-band noise being pushed back down. Yes, they are on the same circuit. The unit is installed out in my repeater building. > > A lot of cheap wall-wart power supplies (or cheap Chinese 'project' > supplies) are crap. This is getting surprisingly common - even the > cigarette lighter charger for my cellphone spews crap all over the VHF and > FM broadcast band. I agree, I will have to look and see what the voltage is and see if I can power it from another source and try that. > > I do wireless internet installs for a living, and you'd be surprised the > general lack of quality control is used on most gear. I'm curious - what > gear was installed? > I am not sure the name of it. The only reference I have is Canopy. Mathew > JS > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:Repeater- > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 7:16 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater > > > > I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my > > 120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I > > am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. > > > > Anyone ever had these issues and how did you go about remeding the > > problem. And I can't shut off the internet as the family would hang > > me, and would rather not shut off the repeater. > > > > There is besides the TXRX duplexers two DB4001 filter duplexers on the > > system. Funny part is that once it starts the interference, I can > > remove antenna from the receiver and it continues to intermod until I > > kill the transmitter. I can hit the remote PTT and it will key the > > repeater, no noise into the system until I reattach the antenna port to > > the receiver. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
> There was a local VHF machine up here that was getting some interference > into it. After some testing with trial and error, they moved the > wireless internet antenna and the problem went away. > Wished it was that easy. My family insist on having the internet. So goes the repeater if I can't find a solution for it. Mathew > Eric. > > n9lv wrote: > > > I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my > > 120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I > > am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. > > > > Anyone ever had these issues and how did you go about remeding the > > problem. And I can't shut off the internet as the family would hang > > me, and would rather not shut off the repeater. > > > > There is besides the TXRX duplexers two DB4001 filter duplexers on the > > system. Funny part is that once it starts the interference, I can > > remove antenna from the receiver and it continues to intermod until I > > kill the transmitter. I can hit the remote PTT and it will key the > > repeater, no noise into the system until I reattach the antenna port to > > the receiver. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
About 5 feet from each other. --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "JOHN MACKEY" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > How close are the 2 meter repeater antenna and the 2.4G antenna? > > -- Original Message -- > Received: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 05:16:30 PM PST > From: "n9lv" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater > > > I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my > > 120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I > > am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. > > > > Anyone ever had these issues and how did you go about remeding the > > problem. And I can't shut off the internet as the family would hang > > me, and would rather not shut off the repeater. > > > > There is besides the TXRX duplexers two DB4001 filter duplexers on the > > system. Funny part is that once it starts the interference, I can > > remove antenna from the receiver and it continues to intermod until I > > kill the transmitter. I can hit the remote PTT and it will key the > > repeater, no noise into the system until I reattach the antenna port to > > the receiver. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > At 05:16 PM 11/20/2008, n9lv wrote: > > >I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my > >120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I > >am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. > > <Couple of questions: > > 1) You say "intermod". Exactly what kind of interference are you experiencing? It is opening and closing the receiver very quickly. You can actually hear the pulsing of the wi-fi radio. > 2) Is this "wireless antenna" actually a radio/antenna combination > being fed power via POE (Power Over Ethernet) over a CAT5 cable up the tower? Yes, this is a wi-fi radio and antenna combination setup with cat5 POE. I am not sure the brand, all i can see with what they showed me is something about Canopy. Mathew > > Ken > -- > President and CTO - Arcom Communications > Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and > we offer complete repeater packages! > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 > http://www.irlp.net > "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: 2.4 GHz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
I am not sure the brand or any information on the wireless antenna, I do know that it is a brand new antenna, I know that it has a large screen behind it. As for the repeater antenna, it is a DB224 and I do have a preamp on the repeater. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Mullarkey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > > > > We have had problem back in Oregon with the Wi-Fi guys running the 2.4 GHz > outdoor wireless amps that mount at the antenna. They seem to be sending > spurs all over the band. With the PassPort VHF system on the same tower the > receiver would 20db down and then turn off the Wi-Fi stuff and then it goes > to normal operating as it should. What type of 2.4 GHz, are you running an > amp, what type of antenna. Also you may want to take the antenna apart and > see if it is filled up with moisture. > > > > Mike K7PFJ > > > > > > _ > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 6:16 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater > > > > I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my > 120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I > am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. > > Anyone ever had these issues and how did you go about remeding the > problem. And I can't shut off the internet as the family would hang > me, and would rather not shut off the repeater. > > There is besides the TXRX duplexers two DB4001 filter duplexers on the > system. Funny part is that once it starts the interference, I can > remove antenna from the receiver and it continues to intermod until I > kill the transmitter. I can hit the remote PTT and it will key the > repeater, no noise into the system until I reattach the antenna port to > the receiver. > > Thanks. > > Mathew >
[Repeater-Builder] 2.4 Ghz wireless radio and 145.410 repeater
I just had a 2.4 Ghz internet wireless antenna mounted at the top of my 120' tower which is where the antenna is for the 145.410 repeater. I am getting intermod into the system that causes it to hang open. Anyone ever had these issues and how did you go about remeding the problem. And I can't shut off the internet as the family would hang me, and would rather not shut off the repeater. There is besides the TXRX duplexers two DB4001 filter duplexers on the system. Funny part is that once it starts the interference, I can remove antenna from the receiver and it continues to intermod until I kill the transmitter. I can hit the remote PTT and it will key the repeater, no noise into the system until I reattach the antenna port to the receiver. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Power (was TPN1132A Wireup help and questions)
Kevin, Very well put, now I can understand that concept. Never thought to take the voltage into consideration. You never know until you ask, tis how we always learn. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin Custer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > n9lv wrote: > > Mike, I am on old TV radio/tech repair for RCA and Zenith, so > > understandig the voltage is not the question I had. What I am > > refereing to, is take for example, I have a 200 watt amplifier that > > came from the factory with 6 guage wire on it, much like the kids > > that is buying the 4 guage wire to run the 200 watt class D amps for > > the deep sub, were talking about how they accomplish 1/2 KW with all > > small wires. You would not wire your 220 amp with such small wires. > > I'm just curious how they can handle the amps with such small wires. > > Where is the big leads. Example, to the 10 watt exciter, they have > > 12 guage wires, why would they not have something like that going to > > such a high voltage amp. Thats is all that I am curious about. Much > > like the 35kv carrier for a tube was 14 guage wire with a heavy > > insulator around it. > > Power is derived from two main things, voltage and current. Power > expressed in mathematics is simple - voltage is multiplied by the > current. V times A. > When you have lower voltage, like 12 volts in a vehicle, to create big > power you must have (draw) big current - many amperes. A typical 200 > watt per channel audio amplifier will draw about 600 watts of DC power. > Okay, we'll work the law backwards since we know the voltage and the > power consumption. 600 (watts) divided by 12 (volts) is 50 amperes. No > big wonder why the kids want (need) #6 or #4 wire size. > > Now lets take my 4EF5A1 330 watt RF power amplifier. It's a little > better than 50% efficient, so to make 330 watts of RF it consumes about > 600 watts of power at the tube, just like the kids audio amp. However, > it has 2000 volts on the plate, not 12 volts, so lets do the math... > 600 (watts) divided by 2000 (volts) is .3 amperes. (three tenths of one > ampere) No big wonder why small wire (with BIG insulation) will produce > the power. > > This is the same law that allows the power company to use small wire to > serve hundreds of homes with electricity. There is thousands of volts > on the PRIMARY of the transformer on the pole that serves your house. > The secondary has a few hundred volts at a few hundred amps. > > Those big battery charger / starters that have the ability to start a > vehicle with a dead battery they put out many many amps, 50 - 100 > amps of current, but are run from a common extension cordI think > now you see the point... > > Kevin Custer >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mike, I am on old TV radio/tech repair for RCA and Zenith, so understandig the voltage is not the question I had. What I am refereing to, is take for example, I have a 200 watt amplifier that came from the factory with 6 guage wire on it, much like the kids that is buying the 4 guage wire to run the 200 watt class D amps for the deep sub, were talking about how they accomplish 1/2 KW with all small wires. You would not wire your 220 amp with such small wires. I'm just curious how they can handle the amps with such small wires. Where is the big leads. Example, to the 10 watt exciter, they have 12 guage wires, why would they not have something like that going to such a high voltage amp. Thats is all that I am curious about. Much like the 35kv carrier for a tube was 14 guage wire with a heavy insulator around it. I understand your concerns, and trust me, I am in no way interested in getting shocked not to mention, I hate it when that happens. I just am trying to concept why they use such small wires with nothing larger to carry the amperage much like a standard 25 watt radio would for two meters. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > At 05:43 PM 09/03/08, you wrote: > >Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, > >but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it > >would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have > >at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How > >do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? > > This is the kind of comment that worries the old farts. > > 20ga wire can carry an amp. > 18 ga can carry at least three amps. > > The UHF Micor amp book (the only high power book I have > handy) says that the final amp runs at 1,500 volts at up to > 400 mils. > > That's 4/10 of an amp. 1/10 can kill you if it's applied right. > > 1500v can ruin your survivors entire day. > > Do I have to say it? WATCH OUT FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE. > > If you don't have experience with it DON'T WORK ALONE. > > There's a reason they used to tell the old techs to keep > one hand in their pocket - it prevented getting a lethal > level of current from hot (one hand) to ground (the other > hand) and incidentally through the chest. The heart muscle > does it's thing with millivolts and milliamps. > > Matt, I don't mean to be insulting, or demeaning your skills, > but this is YOUR LIFE we are talking about. > > If I were in your shoes when ever I was going to have my > hands inside that beast with the power on I'd have a > second person in the room, even if they were sitting in a > chair across the room and studying a textbook. > Or watching TV. > > Show them what switch to flip off (or better yet what power > cord to unplug) before they drag your ass out of the cabinet > and begin practicing their CPR skills. > > Mike WA6ILQ >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks Robert, I am going out into the shack tonight, I think I am going to trace each wire and see just where they go, this should hopefully help me find a home for each one. I lloked at TB1 where some of the wires goes, says they should come from the PA, but then they don't exactly correspond to the points listed on the PA. Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with > so239 connectors. > I'll include pictures of that also. > It still looks good to get to shop today. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are > referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same > amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a > spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That > should not > > be a big problem. > > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in > the PURC > > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big > wire > > wound mother. > > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you > remove the > > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side > (from front) > > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans > on the 2 > > heat sinks. > > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after > we added > > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more > years. > > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an > average of 18 > > to 20 hours a day. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same > purpose > > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the > unkey > > of the mic? > > > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz > and > > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > > transfer > > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > > > Robert.. > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > > cards > > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > > Station > > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > > squelch > > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "sgreact47" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and > with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. > I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the > receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, > stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or > ed so there is no squelch crash. > > More details if you need them. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "sgreact47" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and > with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. > I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the > receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, > stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or > ed so there is no squelch crash. > > More details if you need them. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not > be a big problem. > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire > wound mother. > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans on the 2 > heat sinks. > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 > to 20 hours a day. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey > of the mic? > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > transfer > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > cards > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > Station > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > squelch > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > Mathew > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > Mathew, > > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > > one with a > > > tracer is the CT. > > > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > > have been > > > the rear door interlock. > > > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > > pictures and > > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > > bear > > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales > me. > > > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of > what > > I > > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > > > Here
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch > card, but was told they were not needed. > > Mathew > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > Mathew, > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > one with a > > tracer is the CT. > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > have been > > the rear door interlock. > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > pictures and > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > Robert > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > bear > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what > I > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, > some > > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > > forward. > > > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > > name, regardless the colors are: > > > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > > Brown/Green > > > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached > inside > > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > > > White > > White/Black > > Brown/White > > Black and Dark Grey together > > Solid grey > > Brown/Yellow > > > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > > > Red/Green > > Red/Yellow > > Red/White > > Two Grey Together > > White/Green > > Solid Grey > > > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the > > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering > panel, > > only an assumption. > > > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from > > the harness. > > > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am > > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > > > The other wires are: > > > > Brown/White > > Brown/Yellow > > Tan/Black > > Red/Yellow > > > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I > do > > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as > > follows: > > > > TB1-3 = Blue > > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > > TB1-2 = Blue > > TB1-7 = Yellow > > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > > TB1-6 = Yellow > > > > Thanks for the help > > > > Mathew > > > > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no > difference > > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > > reversable between either TP1 points? > > > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got > left. > > > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires > go. > > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a > tracer is the CT. > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been > the rear door interlock. > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > Robert > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > TPN1132A - LV PS > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > forward. > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > name, regardless the colors are: > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > Brown/Green > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > White > White/Black > Brown/White > Black and Dark Grey together > Solid grey > Brown/Yellow > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > Red/Green > Red/Yellow > Red/White > Two Grey Together > White/Green > Solid Grey > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, > only an assumption. > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from > the harness. > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > The other wires are: > > Brown/White > Brown/Yellow > Tan/Black > Red/Yellow > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as > follows: > > TB1-3 = Blue > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > TB1-2 = Blue > TB1-7 = Yellow > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > TB1-6 = Yellow > > Thanks for the help > > Mathew > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > reversable between either TP1 points? > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. >From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > How are you on the harness ? > > Robert >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
The harness is in full tack from what I see, nothing seems to be cut or missing. I am going out now to get a list of all the parts. Will report back shortly. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > How are you on the harness ? > > Robert >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I did mention that this is a VHF Micor Upright RT system, as I bought all the parts, just did not get the cabinet. I am very familiar with the voltages at hand, I am not in anyway new to this, however I have been dealing with a disease that has affected my memory and thinking process of which I currently found out what it was. Lime Disease. Anyways, the help that I am asking for is to note where all the extra wires goes. I have been looking at the schematics, thus is how I found that the ac power cord goes to the High Voltage PS. I have put all the pieces back in line per the manual. When I hook up the low voltage and high voltage power supply, just don't want to mix the wires up. If it were straigt forward in numbering it would not be so bad. I am going to be back at it this afternoon, and hopefully fire it up, or catch it on fire, hi hi.. So it's not that I don't know what I am doing, I just need someone to hollar at once I find a wire that I am not sure where it belongs. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > WOW ! > > I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. > First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater > that you know nothing about > Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. > Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified > repeater that has now a "KW" amp. > > That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has > a frequency exciter, PA receiver... > If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz > if the "B" was a "C" then that would be > Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was > "D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz > If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then > 806-960 MHz . > > Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with > but should have been able to figure out with the manual. > > Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This > may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . > But you have to live through it to learn. > > There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the > line voltage. > > Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was > made in 68 I think. > Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to > help. > Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill > yourself, we will teach you. > > If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over > and just keep an eye on you. > Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. > > Then have fun. > > The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. > There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of > the transformer on the hi voltage supply > To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 > Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. > > The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. > If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on > the band. > > There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will > get to those. > You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where > you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. > Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. > > Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even > the smartest person can save you life via email. > > Good luck, > Robert / KD4PBC > > > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to > TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright > RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp > will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of > the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all > the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. > > I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for > the system to function, and that there is a
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The > TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series > radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power > level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you > have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? > > Joe - WA7JAW > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" wrote: > > > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the > > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the > > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though > > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. > > > > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio
I believe that is only available in the digital series where programming is done via the rib. This one is the eprom analog setup. I am thinking there must be another control line going to the controller that I am missing. Mathew - In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9wys" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > > Try programming it for "tone only" control (I believe that is option "S" in > both Repeater Control and Receiver Control. Mode Information screen) - this > way even if the station hears a carrier, it won't "react" to it. > > I'm planning on doing that with my station - right now it's set for "SC" > > Mark - N9WYS > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n9lv > > That is what I thought was wrong first of all, tried it both ways and > no change either way. I thought for sure when I wired up the > controller that it was fine, but not sure when the other repeater > came into the picture. I am going to check the switches today and > see if there is anything there. > > Mathew > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown wrote: > > > > Check to see if Zone 2 Function 5 is turned on. If on, it could > let a COR signal get to your repeater without having the correct > CTCSS frequency decoded. > > > > 73 - Jim W5ZIT >
[Repeater-Builder] TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio
That is what I thought was wrong first of all, tried it both ways and no change either way. I thought for sure when I wired up the controller that it was fine, but not sure when the other repeater came into the picture. I am going to check the switches today and see if there is anything there. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Jim Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Check to see if Zone 2 Function 5 is turned on. If on, it could let a COR signal get to your repeater without having the correct CTCSS frequency decoded. > > 73 - Jim W5ZIT > > --- On Sun, 8/31/08, n9lv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > From: n9lv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, August 31, 2008, 10:44 AM > > > > > > > > > > > > I have the analog MSF5000 repeater that has the Cat300DX repeater > > controller installed. Not sure if this has been this way all along, > > but I noticed there is another repeater somewhere close that has a > > different PL. When they are using there repeater, it will cerchunk my > > 442.000 repeater. My PL is 131.8, and that will open the squelch and > > allow audio out the repeater. Any other PL will not open the repeater, > > but will consistanly cerchunk the repeater and causes the courtesy tone > > to trip as well as the rest and wait id timers. Any ideas. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > > > _. >
[Repeater-Builder] MSF5000 Tone Issue, PL 131.8 opens cor, non 131.8 keys repeater but no audio
I have the analog MSF5000 repeater that has the Cat300DX repeater controller installed. Not sure if this has been this way all along, but I noticed there is another repeater somewhere close that has a different PL. When they are using there repeater, it will cerchunk my 442.000 repeater. My PL is 131.8, and that will open the squelch and allow audio out the repeater. Any other PL will not open the repeater, but will consistanly cerchunk the repeater and causes the courtesy tone to trip as well as the rest and wait id timers. Any ideas. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Need Help: Wiring up a Motorola RT VHF repeater.
I purchased all the parts from a Motorola RT VHF repeater system with the 330w amplifier. I need help with hooking up the power supply as well as there is some other wires that I am not sure where they go. I do have the manuals, however I don't see where it gives and information on how to wire it up. I also need to know where to hook the ac line in as well. All help would be appreciated. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] RLC-DSP404 Controller, anyone using one, pro's and con's please
I am looking at replacing the Cat1000B controller on our repeater system, and am looking at the RLC-DSP404 controller to replace it. Anyone using one? How well is it functioning, any problems, issues that I should know about. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola TPN1110B Power Supply question
I was just given a Motorola TPN1110B 25 amp power supply for use on the repeater. Currently I have a Astron 70 amp power supply online. When the repeater is keyed up, the meter shows a current draw of right at 25 amps. Will this power supply handle full duty cycle at 25 amps, or is it a 20 amp with 25 amp surge? There is nothing wrong with the Astron, just would much rather have a rack mounted power supply. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] OT: Relm RPV599A programming help needed
Sorry for the off topic, but does anyone know how to get into the front panel programming on this radio? I held in the monitor button but that does not work. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Switching Power Supply vs. Astron Etc.
With all the talk about switching power supplies, I asked a question but did not really see my answer. Currently I have an Astron 70 Amp power supply on the repeater system. I have access to a 100 Amp Audiopipe DSPS10012 switching power supply available for the repeater. What would be the (dis)advantage of using this power supply and release the 70 Amp Astron that is in line currently? Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] DB 4072 Duplexer, Knowledge, will they tune the 440 Mhz Ham Band?
I have a fellow ham who has a set of DB 4072 duplexers, wants to use them on a 440 repeater at about 30 watts output. Has anyone any expierience tuning these duplexers, and how well if they will, work. They are currently set on 463 Mhz, and are designed for 450-470 Mhz. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] WTB: GE EXEC II 66 Split receiver for mobile radio
Anyone by chance have a GE EXEC II 66 split receiver lying around they would be willing to part with? I have a 56 split, having problems getting it to goto 147.885 receive. Best I can get is about -70 dBm at 12 dB sinad. So hopefully a 66 split will do a better job. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Need: 131.8 Versatone for GE EXEC Board 190430740G, also information
I am in need of at least five 131.8 versatone boards for the following GE tone board. Also, I need to know, are these board just encode, and is there a way to make them decode. I put one in one of the radios, it does send pl out the transmitter, however I do not get any audio from the speaker out of the receiver. Problem I am having is that the GE converted radios will not allow the PL tones to pass through them. I can take the repeater out of PL and the radios work just fine, and the audio is just fine. Any sugesstions? Thanks Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Bowmar Crystals Ordered, all the RX not working for GE EXEC II mobiles
Hope someone can help shed some light here. I ordered xtals from Bomar (3 week wait) for the GE EXEC II mobile radios, 6 for RX for 144.810 and one RX of 434.875, all high side injection. None of them are working at all. At the same time I ordered tx xtals for the same radio, they all work just fine. What might I be missing here, or did they just cut them all wrong. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Freq Cut for GE Exec II, need to know the formula
Can anyone give me the formula to figure the cut for the vhf receive side of the GE Exec II radio. I'm not 100% sure, but I think I have been sent the wrong xtals. I'm looking for the cut for 144.810 if anyone can help. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] WTB: Slide rails for 19" rack mount.
Does anyone have or know where they can be purchased? I am looking for a way to mount my controllers on a slide out tray so that adjustments can be made without tearing everything apart. Difficult part is, there is only whole mounts on the front of the cabinet and not the rear, so they would have to be strong. The controller and the LDG voter is not all that heavy. Thanks Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Micor power supply rating, how many amps does it produce
Is there a way to find out how many amps a power supply is from a motorola micor system. For instance a power supply from a 100 watt system? A way to look up the model numbers. I am trying to develope a power supply capable of giving at least 40 amps continous duty that is rack mountable. Currently I have an Astron 70 amp power supply, but would like to remove that amp and replace it with something that is rack mountable, but don't want to incur the cost of buying a new one if the two that I have will work. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Cushman CE-6030 Help needed, blew the pica fuse, where is it
Does anyone know where I can find the pica fuse to the antenna input on the CE-6030 service monitor. I think mine has blown since I cannot get very good sensitivity from it. All help is appreciated. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] GE Exec II, I want to make a portable repeater, is it all the same
I recently finished converting some GE Exec II's for crossband operation. Want I want to do is make a repeater from one, in the VHF band. Would everything be the same as when I did the crossband. Will there be any other issues that I might encounter? This is going to be on a VHF unit in the 147 Mhz range. Thanks. Mathew N9LV
[Repeater-Builder] GE Exec II Conv. Max audio 1.5 KHz Dev, how can I increase it
I have taken a UHF transmitter and combined it with a VHF receiver for a crossband split. The very maximum deviation that I can obtain from the radio is about 1.5 KHz. This is with the pot turn all the way up. Mic high is being fed into a 1.0 MFD cap through a 15K resistor to the high side of the volume control. The audio is clear, just not all that loud. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] GE Exec Time Out Timer issue needs attention
Is there a way to bypass the time out timer in the GE or at least change it to more than one minute, more like 4 minutes. Also, when the time out timer kicks in, the radio has to be shut off in order to get it to reset. Is there a fix to bypass this as well. Thanks. Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE EXEC II UHF Exciter Help Needed
Ooops, I typed in the wrong radio. I am working on the UHF Exec II radio. Not sure what I was thinking, so now it's information I need on the UHF and not the VHF. No wonder why the coils are not in the right place. Mathew > > John is absolutely correct. A photo of the coil positions is in LBI- 30351A, > on page 5, here: > > http://www.repeater-builder.com/ge/lbi-library/lbi-30351a.pdf > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed
Steve, From what I am seeing, the exciters are laid out different. They are right on the VHF, I went and pulled a VHF exciter and it matches, but is different from the UHF version Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "N7hzs" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I have been looking for a UHF mvp manual but I didn't see one on the rb.com page. Are the vhf and uhf both the same ? > > Steve > - Original Message - > From: Thomas Oliver > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Saturday, November 25, 2006 11:45 AM > Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed > > > Go here http://www.repeater- builder.com/ge/mvp/mvptuningindex.html > > MVP's are use same exciter. Most all the test points one of your multimeter > probes goes to ground. > > tom > > > [Original Message] > > From: n9lv <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: > > Date: 11/25/2006 1:59:38 PM > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed > > > > I am in the process of aligning up a VHF exciter from an Exec II > > mobile radio and could use some assistance. I do not have a manual or > > test set for the radios. I need to know the layout of the coils on > > the exciter, and then want to use an analog meter to begin the > > alignment procedure. Anyone able to assist me with this. Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > N9LV > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > --- --- > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.14.16/551 - Release Date: 11/25/2006 >
[Repeater-Builder] GE EXEC II VHF Exciter Help Needed
I am in the process of aligning up a VHF exciter from an Exec II mobile radio and could use some assistance. I do not have a manual or test set for the radios. I need to know the layout of the coils on the exciter, and then want to use an analog meter to begin the alignment procedure. Anyone able to assist me with this. Thanks. Mathew N9LV
[Repeater-Builder] Mastr Executive II Help on changing 440 Xcvr to 2 Xcvr for Crossband Operation
I have a slew of Ge Mastr Executive II radios that I want to take the 2 meter reciever and place into the 440 Mhz transmitter to make them crossband for link radios for remote recieve sites. These are the Canadian versions so no mods are needed for the units to work in the ham band. Also, if someone has a link or possibly a location to be able to identify which radio is what by the COMB number this would be helpful as well. Also if anyone has a service manual they would be willing to let go of, I could use one of them as well. Thanks for the assistance. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Temp on a bridge rectifier, anyone know
Can anyone tell me approximetly how warm a bridge rectifier will get. This is on a battery charger, consisting of a transformer, bridge rectifier and a filter cap. Input 120 volts with 12 volts out, at 5 amps, and tells me it is for battery type L. I don't know what L means, and the batteries don't say either. Currently the temp of the rectifier is about 200 degrees, does this seem accurate, it is drawing about 6 milliamps at this time charging the batteries. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] OT: 155.190 intereferes with Ham Radio Frequencies
I've have been asked to assist with an issue in a town about 40 miles from here regarding a commercial system that is causing interference with Ham Radio. At best, the information that I have thus far, is that there is a repeater that is owned by the county sheriff's department, this repeater itself is on the output of 155.190, and is said to not be causing interference. The only time that it interferes with the hams in the area is when the city talks on the repeater for 911 dispatches. At this time I do not know how much power or what type of radio they are using, antenna height, or brands. The radios thus far that is recieving the interference, from two locations, one about a mile away and the other about a block away, is the IC-2100H mobile radios, and an ADI AT600 handi talkie. There has been other complaints, I'm supposed to get additional information this weekend, and possibly make a trip up there to hear the interfernce. Questions I have is, what should I be looking for? What avenue's should be taken. I do know that the Chief has been notified of the situation, but refuses to see a problem and has done nothing to rectify the situation. At this point, I do know they say that on the receive of 147.285 that there is noted a nearly full scale signal, making it impossible to hear the repeater that is about 25 miles north of there, of which is on a 400 ft tower, classified as a large scale repeater. Thanks Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] RVS-8 Voter and alignment, someone had a good way to do it.
Some time back someone made comment that they were using the RVS-8 voter system, and that they had a good way to align the receivers and setting up the voting sequence. I would appreciate talking with anyone that can help me with this, as I am in the process of putting the remote receive sites on the air over the next few weeks. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Aviation Problem Returns, Need Some Help, or a Tuned Stub
It appears that my problem with the 145.410 repeater has begun interefering with the aviation frequency again at 132.950. It crept out of no where, and the only change that has taken place with the repeater is that I moved the entry of the feed line, and shortend the jumper that comes inside, which is 3/8" hardline, same as before. Someone back when all this was going on, mentioned they could build me a tuning stub to hopefully make this problem go away. I dont remember whom it was, but if anyone can help, I seriously need some help on this one, as I hate to have to take the repeater off the air. I know it is not the exciter, as it has been changed and is now a micor. Please Help again. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Need Plan info on handheld coverage in Business Band for 60 miles or so
We have four stores that is spread over nearly a 60 mile radius. The first store is about 40 air miles from my store, and then from my store to the next store is about 17 air miles, and again from that store is 17 miles or so. From store one to store 4, there is about 60 air miles between them. Locating the repeater here at my home about 100', it will be on UHF. Using mobile radios, they would all be able to reach the repeater, but I would like to enhance it somehow that the handhelds would be able to be used between the stores. Any thoughts on a plan that would work for this. I have to keep cost to minimum. We do have DSL at all 4 stores. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Need IC SN79273N for MSF5000
If anyone has a few of these lying around, or knows of a source for them, I need one to fix my MSF5000 repeater and a spare. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Information needed on a EF Johnson Repeater
I have a EF Johnson repeater that I need to know if it is crystal controlled or programmable. I have very little information on the repeater, except that it is in a weather proof cabinet. There is a few lables that has the following information on it. This is a UHF repeater. Info on the label is: LPI Repeater EFJ Part Number 242-3450-130 On the controller in the unit Part Number 023-3450-010 Unknown Board DL 3410-081 Receiver is DL 3410 Some other information on a sticker on the cabinet door is 3410T112A 24604 3410R112A 24236 3410P092A 10785 3450C112A 10440 Any help would be greatly appreciated. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Need Info on a VHF Notch Cavity, what would be good, and anyone have one forsale
I'm going to give this a try and see if I can make the 2 meter radio live with the 2 meter repeater. So I need some information on a good Notch Cavity, and possibly if anyone has one lying around they are looking to get rid of. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Need: 220 or 900 Mhz link radio's, also a Kenwood TM-701E Dual Band
I am looking for some radios to use to link some 440 repeaters together. Prefer to find something in the 220 Mhz band, or if cheap enough in the 900 Mhz band, prefer something that is not going to require a mega-load of work to get there. Let me know what you have and prices. I am also in the market for a Kenwood TM-701E Dualband radio if anyone has a spare one lying around. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Having a 2 meter remote base radio in house with a 2 meter repeater, any options
What I need to know is if there is any type of isolator or other device that I can put on my dual band radio that will keep my two meter transmitter out of the 2 meter side of my radio. I know this is a long shot, but if it can work, it would be excellent. What I am running is 120 watts out of the duplexer on 145.410 Mhz. Any suggestions. The antenna's are on seperate towers but only about 40 feet apart base to base, the remote base antenna is at 90 feet and the repeater antenna is at 130 feet. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Help with Tuning an MSF 5000 UHF Repeater
First, can someone tell me in the F/D tuning of the MSF5000, they say to adjust for a dip in the RF Millivolt meter, which I can get, and then says to go a half turn past that, on the dip, does it go to the bottom of the dip and remain there, or where should it come back up to. This is very unclear to me. My problem is, I'm still getting double beeps from the repeater, stating that there is a mismatch with the PA. I can manually key the transmitter with the xmit switch on the repeater, get about 55 watts out, but the repeater will not key up. The controller is keying he PA exciter, just not the amplifier stage. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] CAT1000B and Audio Delay Board, still getting squelch tails
I have the CAT1000B Controller, I installed the audio delay board, but still get the squelch tail at the end of the transmission, even more so since I hooked in the LDG voter system. Also, on the hour I have the time set to announce, the repeater will key up, unkey and keyup again and give the time announcement, again more evident after I installed the RVS-8 voter system. Is there something that much be done between the Audio Delay board, this is the one that CAT sales for their controllers and the LDG RVS-8 voter to keep the squelch tails out? On another note, has anyone ever expirienced any problems with the LDG voter not keying up all the way and allowing the courtisy tone to continue and the audio be extremely low? Does not happen all the time, but takes it's fits now and then. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] MSF5000 & RF Millivolt Meter Help
Ok, I am back to tuning the MSF5000 F/D using the Boonton 92A-S2 RF Millivolt meter, I have the 91-12F Probe. I started the alignment procedure and the meter does not remain stable, each time I turn the set screw for L18 it bobs up and down, never seeing a real peak or dip. What might I be doing wrong here? Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] RVS8 Voter Help needed.
Is there anyone on the reflector that is well versed with the RVS8 voter system? I am in the process of getting the voter hooked up, and am missing the COR out of the voter back to the repeater. I have all states active HI, cor from my receiver is active high, the channel is not disabled, but I get no voltage out of the RVS8, I am getting 12 volts into the RVS8, at current I am on channel three. On the connections going to the repeater, I have the common ground tied to ground, my audio line going to the audio input. There is three other connections, the first is labled N/O , the second is N/C and the third is labled Com, and none of the three provides a voltage out. When I key up the receiver, the relay in the RVS8 does engage, but the volt meter gives no voltage out of any of the three connections going to the repeater. Anyone able to help. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] WTB: 4 or 5 TLE8032 UHF receivers.
I am looking for at least 4 or more of the UHF receivers TLE8032. Let me know what you have and your asking price including shipping to Indiana. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Duplexer loss different with more power, Why?
Ok, running the TX-RX duplexer, with a 2.2 dB insertion loss, I tuned the duplexers on the monitor. All three of them looked identical, with rejection on the rx side of -80 dBm on each single cavity. Once I tied them all together, the rx rejection was better then -10 dBm, all went well there. I input 4 watts into them all tied together, connected to a dummy load, and got three watts out. Then I tied the duplexers back into the repeater, with 200 watts input, I am getting 100 watts output, into the same dummy load. Refelcted power was less than 1/10 of a watt. What am I missing here. If I am thinking right, I should be getting about 137 watts back out of the duplexer, or close to there. Any ideas? Could there be a mismatch bewteen the duplexers and the amp? Cables are all ingood shape. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] DB 522-509 Duplexer Tuning Instructions Needed.
Would anyone by chance have a copy of the tuning instructions for this duplexer? Or at least a good guideline on how to tune them up. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Tuning a MSF5000 UHF repeater
Anyone have any expierience in tuning up an MSF5000 repeater. I'm taking it from 465 Mhz to 442 Mhz. Other than the filter, what else must be done? Is the exciter wide band enough as well as the receiver, or will they need to be retuned? Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Need: Xtals for Micor 145.410/144.810
Wonder if anyone might have a set of xtals lying around for a micor repeater before sending these out to have them re-crystaled. The exiter is the tld5322 and the receiver is the tld8273. The ones I have are now on 147.195/147.795. Let me know. Thanks. Mathew N9LV Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Echolink and Cat 1000B any one running one
I am attempting to hook echolink into the repeater system. I have the main repeater setup, then I hooked in the RLb-1000 board for an additional three ports. I tied all the audio lines and tx lines together, but am not able to get it to key up the repeater. If anyone can assist with this, it would be greatly appreciated. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] TLD5322 Exciter is on all the time, is there another way
I have a motorola micor repeater that has the exciter keyed up all the time, the TLD5322. I'm told if it is not setup like this that it will have a delay in the keyup. The signal can be heard for a few miles from the repeater site. Is there another alternative to this? Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Info Needed on Mot TLD1703C Amp
Can anyone supply me with the details of this amp for the VHF spectrum, like which part of the band, and power output. Thanks Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] WTB: Duplexer capable of 2.3 Mhz split
I'm looking for a small set of duplexers for an 8 watt repeater that is running a 2.3 Mhz split for vhf in the 154 Mhz range. Prefer a small footprint, ie mobile, as space is limited. Let me know what you have and price. Speaking of price, cheap would be best as this is a donation on my part. Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Nuelink Transmitter Questions Frequency Problems
I have an Nuelink Transmitter, model RFL-TV4 that had an original xtal in it of 145.390. I ordered a new xtal for the transmitter at 145.410. I put the xtal in, and it does not oscillate at 145.410, but rahter at 145.383. Thought the xtal was bad, had the company make another, and same results. Is there a possibility that this transmitter could have been modified to work only in that range. It does put out the two watts and has audio, just cannot get it to move on frequency. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Thanks for all the help, I'm leaving the group
Just want to take a moment and say thanks to all those how have helped me along the way with my repeater system. Due to reasons I will not discuss, I've decided to leave the group. I will continue to stive for a great repeater, but if I don't, I will continue to work my 90 hours a week, and raise my 7 children. Mathew N9LV former W9MWQ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Cat1000 and Courtesty Tones with Volume Control
Wonder if anyone has done anything with the Cat 1000 to change the volume level control inside the Cat1000B. I have a slight problem, and need to reduce the volume even more than the pot will let me inside of the controller. Problem that I have is, I set the rx control for proper voltage, set the volume control for proper deviation, set the audio out on the transmitter and I get everything in order and the courtesy tones are still too loud. I have tried several combinations and no luck. My other problem is FANS. There is two of them on the amp, and they make their way into the transmitter. In order to keep the fans out of the transmitter, if I turn the audio out way down on the xmit, the fan's are barely noticable, but then I have to crank up the volume in the controller, thus making the courtesy tones and cw tones way to loud. At present, both of the pots are down to the bottom, and still to loud. Any ideas. Thanks Mathew N9LV former W9MWQ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] What is available for IRLP equipement
I'm looking for information on IRLP and Echolink connection devices. What is good, what works and what does not? How difficult is it to get them set up and running? Thanks. Mathew Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Changed my Call
Just for notice, I have changed my call from W9MWQ to N9LV since I have upgraded my license class. Thanks to all whom has helped me with this repeater system. It seems to be running along just fine so far. Mathew N9LV former W9MWQ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
