[Repeater-Builder] Re: Invar Rods
Don't know if they make an Invar flame suit, but I may need one :) What I have done in the past is obtained a piece of stainless "redi-rod" and short coupling nuts (female on both ends) with the same threading as the Sinclair. I then lengthen the rod by only the amount required by cutting the coupling nut and redi-rod "studs" to only lengthen the entire rod by 3/4" or so. This small amount when heated will only expand a fraction. It may be just what you need to counteract the contraction of Invar as it is heated. I have three duplexers in service (Q202 style) that have never had an issue. Although the temperature is pretty steady at my site. I even put them in a freezer and left them out in the sun, and there was no change in the notches or pass loss over about 50 degrees temperature difference... And yes I had a large deep freezer :) Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Chuck Kelsey" wrote: > > To expand on my comment, the invar rod is there to minimize the temperature > lengthening and shortening the center "probe." The original design with the > invar to the bottom of the piston, keeps the overall length the same and > allows temperature expansion to occur at the finger stock - thus not > changing the overall length. > > If you rotate the piston, then the piston itself can expand and contract, > and change the overall length. Not as much as if no invar was used, but it > will be worse than if it were kept attached were it was designed. > > Chuck > WB2EDV > > > > - Original Message - > From: "Chuck Kelsey" > To: > Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:55 AM > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Invar Rods > > > > Not a good idea. They are attached to the "bottom" to keep the expansion > > minimized. Turning them around will defeat the purpose of having the invar > > in the first place. > > > > Chuck > > WB2EDV > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "IM Ashford" > > To: > > Sent: Sunday, July 18, 2010 8:54 AM > > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Invar Rods > > > > > >> Just a thought, > >> > >> Why dont you turn the pistons around to give you a longer reach? > >> > >> Ian > >> G8PWE > >> - Original Message - > >> From: "Burt Lang" > >> To: > >> Sent: Saturday, July 17, 2010 4:08 PM > >> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Invar Rods > >> > >> > >>> What diameter are the rods? The older Sinclair VHF Hi cans used 5/16in > >>> diameter whereas the newer cans used 1/4 in daiameter. > >>> > >>> burkleoj wrote: > >>> > Glenn, I need 6 of them for a Sinclair duplexer that I have. > >>> > > >>> > Someone cut the rods off when it was originally on a commercial > >>> > frequency. The rods in my duplexer are so short that it will not tune > >>> > below 147 MHz before they disappear inside the top of the cavity. > >>> > >>> Very common when the frequencies are in the high 160s > >>> > >>> > > >>> > I can get some dimensions for you to see if the ones you have may > >>> > work. > >>> > > >>> > Thanks, Joe - WA7JAW > >>> > >>> You can buy invar rod material from some metal suppliers but you won't > >>> like the price. It normally comes in 12ft lengths but the dealers will > >>> cut it in half in order to ship UPS. The last time I bought some (around > >>> 1990) the price was $30/lb. The dealer was Diezel (or Diesel) Metals on > >>> Long Island somewhere. I still have some left from that order. > >>> > >>> FYI Invar is an allow consisting of exactly 35.16% nickel with the > >>> remainder iron. It is magnetic and will corrode in a damp environment > >>> leaving a green "rust" on the surface. > >>> > >>> Burt VE2BMQ > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> Yahoo! Groups Links > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> Yahoo! Groups Links > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3013 - Release Date: 07/18/10 > > 02:35:00 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.839 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3013 - Release Date: 07/18/10 > 02:35:00 >
[Repeater-Builder] Modifying Sinclair Q2222E VHF to 220Mhz
To continue my series of destroying perfectly good VHF duplexers to modify to the 220Mhz band, I have started modifying a Sinclair QE. http://www.sinclairtechnologies.com/catalog/product.aspx?id=74 The QE is a weird beast, in that it is about the size of a UHF Q3220E duplexer, but is designed for VHF with a folded cavity design. So modified it is a nice compact duplexer that will work well in the 220Mhz band. I took what lessons I learned from modifying a Q2220E VHF duplexer to 220Mhz and applied them to this beast. If you had not seen that project, please go to: http://www.irlp.net/duplexer/ The modifications to the harness are the same as the Q2220E, and the modifications to the internals of the duplexer are even easier. What resulted was a perfectly usable 220Mhz duplexer, with about 80db isolation on TX and RX, with about 1.6db of insertion loss on TX and RX at 1.6Mhz split. >From what I have seen, in the used market QE duplexers are almost given >away, because they have poor specs with a 600khz split. This duplexer works very well with a converted 220 MASTR-II using a PLL exciter and 40W Mitsubishi brick amplifier. I have posted the raw pictures to a website if you want to have a look. I plan to make an addendum to the Q2220E modification site soon. http://www.irlp.net/qe/ Dave Cameron VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Anyone been able to use Telewave TPRD-1554 on 222MHz?
Budd, The mods I do to Sinclair Q2220E duplexers to move them to 220-225Mhz will work well for the TPRD-1554 duplexer as well. The harness will be a bit harder to modify, as the connectors are soldered with clamp connectors. You could make a new harness using RG-400 or RG-223. Also, I am not sure how the finger stock and tuning rod work inside the Telewave duplexers, but a similar mod should be possible. The details are here: http://www.irlp.net/duplexer I have modded 4 duplexers now, and they all give 80-90db notches with 1.0-1.2 db insertion loss. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Budd" wrote: > > A couple of sets of TPRD-1554 were made available to us. > Their stock bandwidth is 140-180 MHz. > Wondering if we can get up to 222MHz range? >
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola Tone-Remote system troubleshooting question
All, I am trying to help a local group with a remote TX/RX site they have which is remoted to their office with a leased phone line and some Motorola tone remote equipment. I know the radio end has a Motorola L3276A adapter, and the office end has a "telephone style" handset (don't have the model number). As of last week, this system will no longer transmit. It still receives fine, but will not activate the PTT on the remote radio, or at least there is no transmitted signal. The fact that is receives tells me that at least the line is intact. I have not yet been to the remote site (several miles away) to look at the radio, but I want to know a little more about this tone remote system before I go: 1) Can I plug a regular telephone into the pair to monitor the signaling? 2) How is the signaling done for TX and RX on the 2 wires? 1950Hz tone or something similar? 3) What should I hear on the line when the PTT on the handset is pressed? 4) Is there a way to passively monitor the leased line audio for the signaling from either end with my HP 8920A service monitor? I don't fully understand the concept of balanced lines, and I don't want to damage any of the equipment by connecting something I shouldn't to it. Any help would be appreciated! Dave Cameron - VE7LTD IRLP System Designer
[Repeater-Builder] Re: PL (CTCSS actually) Encode on Kenwood tkr-850 and tkr-750
Ken is there a reason why you could not just jumper that external logic tone defeat input to the programmable hi/low COS output from the TKR? I know I played around with this feature, but could not figure out the easiest way to have the QT tone defeated during the paging. Dave Cameron --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Ken Arck wrote: > > At 09:45 AM 1/15/2009, skipp025 wrote: > > > >Hi Jed, > >COS. It is there for the entire hangtime. > > If used with an external controller and your TKR is a Version 2, you > can program encoded tone to be controlled by an external logic signal > (thisis how we program TKR's when they pass through our shop) > > Ken > -- > President and CTO - Arcom Communications > Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and > we offer complete repeater packages! > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 > http://www.irlp.net > "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" >
[Repeater-Builder] Maximum split on Sinclair Q2330E duplexer
Here is an interesting question. I have been asked if I can tune a Q2330E duplexer (high split VHF) on a 12meg split between TX and RX. I have only ever tuned them for 600Khz split, and it seems like a real waste to use these nice duplexers for such a large split. Will the caps tune the notch that far from the pass? TX freq 169 RX freq 157 Dave Cameron VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: DTMF Decoder
As someone had pointed out earlier, you also need a PIC or some other device to read the 5 parallel bits from the DTMF decoder, and decode/re-encode them into the serial stream. You can not hook an 8870 direct to a serial port. You are going to require the programmable PIC because you have to make the serial data arrive at the computer the way that EchoLink wants to see it. You can, however, hook an 8870 to a parallel port with a quad 2-input AND chip in between. This is how the IRLP boards do it. Then there may be a piece in the API that allows you to send the DTMF decoded from your own program that reads from the paralell port. Or if you can find one of the old old motorola DTMF decoder chips, you can hook it straight to the port like the IRLP version 1 boards used to do. Dave Cameron - VE7LTD IRLP System Designer --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > All we want to do is be able to do the node selection and > control that would normally be done in the software > portion of echolink. So from what you are saying here I > can use the CM8870 feed audio in take the 4 data lines and > the strobe and hook them up to a serial port and I should > be able to get it to send data to echolink. > > I will take a look at that. > > Thanks, > Vern > > On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 07:11:26 -0500 (CDT) > Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The RC-1000 uses a CM8880 which is a DTMF > >decoder/encoder. It requires a CPU type interface to > >allow reading and writing and must be set up for the > >proper mode. It is not difficult, but much more than > >what you need. > > > > The CM8870 is decoder only, easy to use and straight > >forward...4 data lines and strobe going high to indicate > >decode present. > > > > Not sure what you are wanting to do with the DTMF. For > >echolink there is interface to allow for node selection > >and some control. The Echolink board uses the 8870, but > >been a while since I looked at it. It does use the RS232 > >port for comm. > > > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > > > > > >>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >>Date: 2008/03/24 Mon PM 04:26:07 CDT > >>To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > >>Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] DTMF Decoder > > > >> > >>Wouldn't I need some software to interface this with > >>Echolink? Getting the data from the 4 lines to serial or > >>parallel shouldn't be a big deal but reading it from the > >> port and translating that to Echolink might be. > >> > >>What about being able to pick the DTMF up off of my > >>RC1000 > >>and getting that data into the PC is that possible? > >> > >>Vern > >> > >>On Mon, 24 Mar 2008 12:10:44 -0700 > >> Ken Arck <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >>> At 11:55 AM 3/24/2008, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > >>> > >>>>Any one know if there is a good hardware DTMF decoder out > >>>>there or plans for one that will work with Echolink? > >>>> > >>>>There are several of us who had working Echolink internal > >>>>DTMF that no longer can get them to tune up right. We are > >>>>tired of messing with it so we want to go external. > >>>> > >>>>All I have found on the internet are full echolink > >>>>controllers with DTMF built in. I want just the DTMF > >>>>decoder part. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> http://products.zarlink.com/product_profiles/MT8870D.htm > >>> > >>> Ken > >>> -- > >>> President and CTO - Arcom Communications > >>> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. > >>> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ > >>> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and > >>> we offer complete repeater packages! > >>> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 > >>> http://www.irlp.net > >>> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" > >>> > >> > >> > > > > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > 727-376-6575 > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RF Problem with new repeater
Not sure about the FR4000, but I know that the Kenwood TKR-x50 series can be programmed to have a different "standby" transmit frequency. What you are hearing is the transmit oscillator running, with no power being applied to it by the internal power amplifier. This is a problem in synthesized tranmitters where the oscillator stays on at all times. You will hear its signal for a few hundred feet. Check in the programming if you can set a different "standby" oscillator frequency, and then set it to something closeby, but something that will not cause you any interference. I have a few Harris Alpha 2000 full duplex radios that exhibit this behaviour. A TKR-750 I recently wirked on also had this, but I managed to get rid of it by using the standby feature. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "ki4ggh" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi group, > > I seem to be having an RF Problem with a new Icom FR4000 Repeater. The > repeater is letting out a hissing noise when I listen to it on a HT or > my mobile radio. The hissing noise sounds more like a squelch that is > opened up. When I get about 300 feet from the repeater the noise is > gone. It does not key the transmiter. This is why I am puzzled. The > only way I have found to get arround it is turn my squelch way up on my > HT to remove the noise. When I key up my HT the noise drops out while > the repeater is transmitting. The repeater and repeater tower is at my > home. If it was several miles out of town I would not be emailing you. > I have mounted it in a metal case, grounded the repeater by the > grounding screw, grounded the coax by twisting copper around the coax > sheild, grounded the repeater cabinet. I first thought that the problem > was from the duplexers. Not so, I took the duplexers out of line and > still noise. The only way to remove the noise is to turn off the > repeater. Something I don't won't to do. Any thoughts ??? >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q2330E Duplexer question
I have tuned many of these in the past, and the last set I tuned was doing exactly what you say. But they looked great on the HP 8920, but as soon as any power was run through them, the tuning went all to hell and there was major desense. So I looked a little closer by taking the 80 odd screws off the top, and noticed that one of the tuning caps had some discoloration on it. I came to the conclusion that somebody tuned the unit under power and cooked one of the tuning caps. Once it was replaced, it tuned up and worked like a charm. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Robert Pease" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Thanks Mike, > This was on our frequency before and working fine, we had a problem with > our repeater and when we brought it back we had really bad desense > problems, Our thought was that someone had "bumped" the duplexers and > knocked them off freq. I tried to check them there and they where way > off so I brought them home. > > I understand what duplexers do and how they work but these are > different, they are in one square unit. with the cables T'd to the > cavities, that tells me they are notch type. > I have had a few people tell me that I needed a new harness but it was > working on this freq with this harness fine. > > I'll take a look at the articles, maybe a lightbulb will go on in my > thick head! > > Rob > > > > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mike Morris > WA6ILQ > Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 12:18 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sinclair Q2330E Duplexer question > > > > At 08:39 AM 03/20/08, you wrote: > > > I am the proud owner of a Sinclair Q2330E I am trying to tune it > using my newly aquired Motorola R2001D service monitor > Long story short the Duplexer is willing the battle and I want > to start over. > > Is there a default starting point for these, ie rods half way, > caps 4 turns down from the top. > > The unit is clearly factory marked with high pass, low pass, and > antenna, > > The problem is that some times it seems like the notch is on the > qrong side of the pass and I have to fight to move it to the correct > side. > and when I get one side low side tuned then tune the high side, > the low side gets messed up. > > I can tune each of the cavities independently with no problem, > but again when I put them all together they really get messed up. > > I have read most of the things on the site about tuning > duplexers and I think this is a notch type, maybe someone can confirm > that. > I tried the instructions from the Sinclair site and they seem to > simplistic and I never can seem to get both working. > > I thought I had it once and put when I put a dummy load on the > antenna port and looked from low to high pass with the spectrum analyzer > I expected to see two notches at both freqs, what I saw was not even > close. > > Another note, when I put a 1ft jumper between the out and the in > and look at the trace it looks almost flat. When I look at the jumpers > that where on the repeater I see a dip about 800kc below my low freq, > this moves 200-300kc with different length and type jumpers, Is this > normal? > If it was a wavelength vs cable length null thing I would think > it would move alot more than that. > > Also does anyone know on the 2001D how to set up to generate out > wht out port and monitor the signal at the in port for signal strength? > > I know I am probably missing something really obvious but I just > can't see it!! > > Sorry for all of the dumb questions at once but I am new to > duplexer tuning and am stumped. > > Thanks - Rob - KS4EC > > > This might help: > < http://www.repeater-builder.com/sinclair/q2330e-duplexer- tuning.pdf > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/sinclair/q2330e-duplexer- tuning.pdf> > > > But first spend an evening getting a basic education on duplexers (call > it "Duplexers 101") > > Yes, there is some repeated material between the seven articles, but > if you're new to duplexers, it won't hurt. When you have multiple > people > writing on the same topic some duplication is inevitable. > > < http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ve2azx-duplexerinfo.pdf > <http://www.repeater-builder.com/antenna/ve2azx-duplexerinfo.pdf> > > < > http://www.repea
[Repeater-Builder] HELP NEEDED - Programming Motorola GR-1225 repeater accessory port
I am trying to help an IRLP owner interface his GR-1225 repeater to an IRLP system. Mind you I am 1000 miles away, and can only help over the phone. The problem occurs when he tries to operate full duplex. The repeater works fine on its own, and works fine when the node is operating in half duplex. But as soon as the External PTT is asserted on Pin 3 of the accessory jack, the RX Audio from Pin 11 is being muted. I have been looking through the help file for the WinRSS that runs the 1225 series, but for the life of me I can not figure out why a full duplex repeater would do this. The audio from pin 11 needs to be squelch muted, but why is it also being muted when the external PTT is applied? Can anyone come up with a solution? How would you ever be able to configure this repeater to use an external controller? Dave Cameron - VE7LTD IRLP System Designer
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Retuning 11.2 Mhz oscillator on MASTR-II
The number is: PL19C320523G2 Rev A There is no direct hit for it, bit it is a 75Watt UHF mobile, with UHF exciter (non-tripler). The IF oscillator is dead, but I would like to troubleshoot it. The receiver tunes up fine until I get to "pin 7" and I get zero volts. I hooked my HP 8920A to the RCA output port on the IF oscillator and I get no output on 11.2Mhz. Upon closer inspection, the slugs in the tuning coils in the the IF tuning sections are loose, to the point that I flipped the reciver upside down and two of the three of them just fell out. I have never touched or tweaked the IF before, and I have not seen a step by step tuning. Thanks Dave Cameron --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Dave, > > What is the number stamped in black ink on the edge of this module? If the > LBI covering your module is not already posted on the GE Master Index, I > probably have it in my microfiche file. > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ve7ltd > Sent: Thursday, June 28, 2007 8:57 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Retuning 11.2 Mhz oscillator on MASTR- II > > For some reason, the MASTR-II UHF receiver I have is missing the slugs > out of the tuning coils in the 11.2Mhz IF oscillator. Also the 1 ohm > resistor is cooked, but still 1 ohm. > > Everywhere I look, the LBIs say to tune the capacitor and coils, but > doesnt give any reference or anything. > > Does anyone have a good method to tune this oscillator? > > I have an HP 8920 and a working system to compare to, but a step by > step tuning process for this IF oscillator must exist someplace. > > Thanks > > Dave Cameron - VE7LTD >
[Repeater-Builder] Retuning 11.2 Mhz oscillator on MASTR-II
For some reason, the MASTR-II UHF receiver I have is missing the slugs out of the tuning coils in the 11.2Mhz IF oscillator. Also the 1 ohm resistor is cooked, but still 1 ohm. Everywhere I look, the LBIs say to tune the capacitor and coils, but doesnt give any reference or anything. Does anyone have a good method to tune this oscillator? I have an HP 8920 and a working system to compare to, but a step by step tuning process for this IF oscillator must exist someplace. Thanks Dave Cameron - VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Gleyayre Amp question - Anyone know this amp?
I have aquired a glenayre amp that I know nothing about. The model number is GL-MCP21A. No matter where I search, I can not seem to find info on it. It is a 3U mount, with a really cool rotary fan in the front of the case. There is a power output reading on the front panel. It runs from 28V DC. I just happen to have the macthing power supply :) It has a pre-driver that consists of a single MRF-182. It then goes into a wild 10-way divider and then combined back into a single output. The final driver stage has 10 or 12 independently fused MRF-182 transistors. Each MRF182 is rated for 30W, so this looks to be in the order of 150-200Watts. Any idea of a frequency range or power output. The one thing on the net is a PDF from Asia that shows it as a 280Mhz paging amp. This would make a wicked 220Mhz repeater amp if I could get some info on it. I would like to know more about it before blindly throwing RF into it. Do most Glenayre exciters output 4W? Dave Cameron VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Sinclair Q202GR and Q2220E
If you need the compact footprint go for the Q2220E. If size is not an issue, I highly recommend the Q202 or Q201, especially for high power operation. Another good option, especially for a 600Khz split, is a Q2330E, 6 cavity. Stay away from the "compact" duplexers sinclair makes. I use two older style Q202 duplexers in VHF service at about 75 watts. Very low loss, and good isolation. Additional bandpass cavities always provide more isolation (A Q201 is a Q202 with a single bandpass cavity on each of the TX and RX legs). They are also very simple to tune. To be honest, I butchered my Q2220E after poor performance at 75 watts / 600 khz and turned it into a very good 220Mhz duplexer. http://www.irlp.net/duplexer/ Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Azam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > Hi, > > > I need advise and recommendation from any of you repeater guru's here and > help me to choose between this two filter. Sinclair Q202GR or Q2220E? > > Thanks > > Azam >
[Repeater-Builder] Q2220E to 220 MHz Duplexer Project - First Draft Ready
I have made the first draft of the Sinclair Q2220E to 220Mhz modification. I have documented and photgraphed the steps along the way to get it to work. It has been a lot of fun making this. Please note, I have not fully tested the unit under load, but on a spectrum analyzer and tracking generator it makes perfect notches and low loss pass band. The notched are about 80db deep and the pass loss is about 0.9db TX, 1.1db RX. The document is at: http://www.irlp.net/duplexer/ I am looking for feedback about the article, and things you may want to see as far as additional pictures are concerned. Once I get some feedback, I will submit the article to repeater-builder.com for addition. Please send any feedback to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks in advance for your feedback :) Dave Cameron - IRLP System Designer - http://www.irlp.net VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Battery backup
I have had good luck using a pair of diodes to isolate a power supply from a charging circuit. I essentially have a Statpower 10amp battery charger (specifically designed for the flooded cells I am using). The batteries float on the charger voltage when the AC power is available. The battery positive lead then feeds through a diode and joins the "positive power bus" of my repeaters. Using a proper charger is the most important part so you dont boil off the electrolyte in your batteries. The positive power bus is fed from a large GE power supply. The positive lead from the power supply feeds through a diode to feed the power bus. The idea of using a diodes is to keep the higher voltage of the power supply from passing current into the batteries when AC is available, and vice versa when AC is off. However, if you are using a high power PA or your repeater draws more than about 20 AMPs on TX, you have to be careful of your choices of diode. I use large feedthrough diodes, mounted on large heatsinks, but on lower current draw you could get away with using a smaller bridge rectifier mounted to an unpainted metal piece in your repeater cabinet with some heatsink compound. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "wm5c" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi, > > New member here. Thanks for allowing me to join. > Our club has acquired some large lead-acid 12v batteries we would like > to use to back up our repeater in emergency situations. Does anyone > know of a good (but simple and inexpensive [we are a very small group > in a very small town]) circuit to accomplish this? Any input would be > appreciated. > > Danny WM5C > Heart Of Texas Ham Operators Group (HOTHOG) > Brady, TX > www.hothog.org >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Modification of Sinclair Q2220E 144Mhz duplexer to 220Mhz
I am fairly good at making documentation, and if this project works, I will create a PDF complete with pictures and dimensions to help others who may want to do this in the future. I have learned: 1) I do not need to cut down the casing. The only reason to do this would be for sizing. 2) The connectors used on the ResLok duplexers are easily uncrimped and shortened, which means no additional expense for RG-142 cabling. 3) The loops may not need to be modified, as their orientation defines their resonance within the cavity. So turning them a bit may be all that is needed to get the proper loss/notch depth required for this 220 project. I have a nice camera, so I will document along the way. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Ron Wright, Skywarn Coodinator" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mike, > > On the 220 cavity conversion this would be excellent posting on the > board info sheets. Might consider giving it to the board moderators > or posting in the FILES section. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Mullarkey" > wrote: > > > > Hi David, > > > > > > > > I just finished modifying 6 900MHz 10" cavities to use at 440MHz > for a 3 > > channel receive combiner. Sinclair engineers will send you a PDF of > such > > cavity at 220 and the loop length. At first they will be hesitant > but they > > will eventually send it to you. For the loops just make new loops > and solder > > them to the connector. For the internal rod. Unsolder the tower and > leave > > the finger stock alone if possible to. > > > > > > > > Mike > > > > > > > > Oregon Repeater Linking Group > > > > Mike Mullarkey > > > > 6539 E Street > > > > Springfield, OR 97478 > > > > k7pfj@ > > > > www.orlg.org > > > > > > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of ve7ltd > > Sent: Saturday, January 06, 2007 11:22 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Modification of Sinclair Q2220E 144Mhz > duplexer > > to 220Mhz > > > > > > > > I have recently aquired a functional high-split (148-174) Sinclair > > Q2220E. Since it does not have enough isolation for my 100W VHF > > repeater, and I already have a good working Q202 on there now, I am > > planning to convert this over to a Q2221E for 220Mhz. > > > > I am pretty aware of how duplexers work and the coupling harness > and > > 1/4 wave characteristics, so my questions are very specific. I have > a > > Q3330C (compact UHF 6 cavity) and the Q202 that I have looked at > for > > comparing loops and such. I have already determined how I have to > > reduce the length of the interconnecting harness with the velocity > > factor and such. > > > > The only questions I have are: > > 1) The coupling loop (with the connector and the variable > capactior) > > on the Q2220E is obviously sized for 148-174. How should the > > dimensions be changed to work to 220? The reason I am confused is > the > > UHF is the same length, but not as spread open. and made from wider > > copper stock. The Q202 is much more spread open and larger. What is > > the electrical/RF characteristics of this loop supposed to be? > > > > 2) I know I have to cut down the hollow rod support and the finger > > stock on the internals of the duplexer to accomodate the 1/4 wave > > resonance inside for 220. No problem. But, does the depth of the > > cavity matter? Do I have to shorten the casing as well? I know in > the > > past when I removed the bottom of the large Q202 cans, the bottom > > being in place or not had little effect on the tuning. If I left > the > > casing alone, would I still be able to tune it to 220? > > > > Thanks for your insight. > > > > Dave Cameron > > VE7LTD > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Modification of Sinclair Q2220E 144Mhz duplexer to 220Mhz
I have recently aquired a functional high-split (148-174) Sinclair Q2220E. Since it does not have enough isolation for my 100W VHF repeater, and I already have a good working Q202 on there now, I am planning to convert this over to a Q2221E for 220Mhz. I am pretty aware of how duplexers work and the coupling harness and 1/4 wave characteristics, so my questions are very specific. I have a Q3330C (compact UHF 6 cavity) and the Q202 that I have looked at for comparing loops and such. I have already determined how I have to reduce the length of the interconnecting harness with the velocity factor and such. The only questions I have are: 1) The coupling loop (with the connector and the variable capactior) on the Q2220E is obviously sized for 148-174. How should the dimensions be changed to work to 220? The reason I am confused is the UHF is the same length, but not as spread open. and made from wider copper stock. The Q202 is much more spread open and larger. What is the electrical/RF characteristics of this loop supposed to be? 2) I know I have to cut down the hollow rod support and the finger stock on the internals of the duplexer to accomodate the 1/4 wave resonance inside for 220. No problem. But, does the depth of the cavity matter? Do I have to shorten the casing as well? I know in the past when I removed the bottom of the large Q202 cans, the bottom being in place or not had little effect on the tuning. If I left the casing alone, would I still be able to tune it to 220? Thanks for your insight. Dave Cameron VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Re: VHF Duplexer problem - help?
Yeah Thor is never nice. But then again we hardly ever get lightning here in the Vancouver area. None of my systems have been struck yet. The frequencies are: 146.800 TX / 146.200 RX amateur system I suspect the harness though because if I tune each cavity individually, and then place them all together, I have to fiddle with the cavities to get them all to line up again on the spectrum analyzer. Adjustments to the high pass side affect the low pass and vice versa. On my old Q202's I have, once you tune the two cavitites by themselves, hook up the harness, then all is well, usually. I have some spare parts (including a duplexer) I am going to play swap with to isolate their problem. I was wondering more about what may cause that cap to exhibit it's weird behaviour Thanks for the feedback. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Don Kupferschmidt" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Dave, > > You didn't mention the frequency that the system is currently turned to, so > that's one issue. You also mention that the duplexer "also was originally > tuned in the low 160's and I am aware that the harness may need to be > changed." Thats's another variable that needs to be addressed. > > My advise to you is to send the duplexers back to Sinclair (if that's > possible) and have them take a look at it. They have the resources to fix > any problems, if any. Make sure that you tell them what's going on. > > Since you have said that there may have been lightning damage in the past, I > would consider replace the feedline, connectors and antenna. You could do > this piece meal, one at a time, to eliminate the problems. However, from > past history with my system, I'd replace the antenna system all at once. > > Thor doesn't give any leeway . . . . once the system is hit by lightning, > you can expect to replace the major components of it (most of the time). > > If you're on a budget, start by getting the duplexer up to factory specs. > Then, you've eliminated that variable from the system. That's the easiest, > low cost alternative. > > Don, KD9PT > > - Original Message - > From: "ve7ltd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Thursday, December 21, 2006 4:32 PM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] VHF Duplexer problem - help? > > > >I was helping a local group tune a 6 cavity Sinclair Q2330 VHF > > duplexer. With a spectrum analyzer, I was able to get the pass/notch > > looking really good into a dummy load. > > > > I did notice that one of the capacitors did not tune linearly. All > > of the other caps would tune the notch smoothly as it approached the > > correct notch frequency. This one cap would tune weird. As you > > rotated it on one direction, it would tune the notch closer, then > > farther, then closer, then father. All the other caps would only > > move linearly in one direction when rotated. > > > > When hooked up at the site, there is not a lot of loss either on the > > RX or the TX. But as soon as the transmitter comes on, no matter > > what the power output, there is a huge amount of RX noise generated, > > whether terminated with a load or the antenna. The noise is also > > intermittent - It comes and goes. If that suspect cap is turned > > under any transmit load, it crackles loudly. None of the other caps > > exhibit this behaviour. The noise desenses the receiver badly. > > > > I have not scoped the transmitter yet, but it was working fine when > > removed from service (GE MASTR II 40 W station). I also have used > > and tuned many of these in the past, and they all have worked fine. > > > > There was signs of lightning damage on an old antenna they removed > > from the site a few years ago (the cable harness in a Sinclair 210C- > > 4 was burned in one dipole. I am unsure if they replaced the > > feedline. There is no reflected power. > > > > The duplexer also was originally tuned in the low 160's and I am > > aware that the harness may need to be changed. > > > > Here are my questions: > > 1) Besides the weird behaviour, is there any way to test if the cap > > is bad? > > > > 2) If there is lightning damage, where/how may it be visible? Is it > > repairable? Where would I find a replacement cap? > > > > 3) Does the fact that the system works fine with a signal generator > > and sprectrum analyzer suggest that the problem is in the duplexer? > > > > I have set up many repeater systems, and never had a problem like > > this before. Any ideas? > > > > Thanks all. This group is a great resource for people like me that > > want to get into repeater building. I would not be able to be where > > I am without the help you all provide. > > > > Dave Cameron > > VE7LTD > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > !DSPAM:1016,458b0cd2639655209328925! > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] VHF Duplexer problem - help?
I was helping a local group tune a 6 cavity Sinclair Q2330 VHF duplexer. With a spectrum analyzer, I was able to get the pass/notch looking really good into a dummy load. I did notice that one of the capacitors did not tune linearly. All of the other caps would tune the notch smoothly as it approached the correct notch frequency. This one cap would tune weird. As you rotated it on one direction, it would tune the notch closer, then farther, then closer, then father. All the other caps would only move linearly in one direction when rotated. When hooked up at the site, there is not a lot of loss either on the RX or the TX. But as soon as the transmitter comes on, no matter what the power output, there is a huge amount of RX noise generated, whether terminated with a load or the antenna. The noise is also intermittent - It comes and goes. If that suspect cap is turned under any transmit load, it crackles loudly. None of the other caps exhibit this behaviour. The noise desenses the receiver badly. I have not scoped the transmitter yet, but it was working fine when removed from service (GE MASTR II 40 W station). I also have used and tuned many of these in the past, and they all have worked fine. There was signs of lightning damage on an old antenna they removed from the site a few years ago (the cable harness in a Sinclair 210C- 4 was burned in one dipole. I am unsure if they replaced the feedline. There is no reflected power. The duplexer also was originally tuned in the low 160's and I am aware that the harness may need to be changed. Here are my questions: 1) Besides the weird behaviour, is there any way to test if the cap is bad? 2) If there is lightning damage, where/how may it be visible? Is it repairable? Where would I find a replacement cap? 3) Does the fact that the system works fine with a signal generator and sprectrum analyzer suggest that the problem is in the duplexer? I have set up many repeater systems, and never had a problem like this before. Any ideas? Thanks all. This group is a great resource for people like me that want to get into repeater building. I would not be able to be where I am without the help you all provide. Dave Cameron VE7LTD
[Repeater-Builder] Good mobile for solar site
I am in the process of setting up a package to be taken to a solar site at 9000 feet in the rockies. I am making an internet remote SIMPLEX system, and I need a radio that would be good for the site. Some of the requirements are: 1) low current on receive 2) Adjustable and clean to 1 watt transmit power 3) stable at varying temperatures 4) Efficient on transmit 5) At least 10% duty cycle 6) Narrow-bandable would be an asset Has anyone ever used a handheld for such a task? If so, what would you suggest? There are no other transmitters on the site (besides microwave), so receiver protection is not that important. Dave Cameron VE7LTD Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Antenna advice
The sinclair requires no modification at all to work on any frequency between 138 and 174 Mhz. It is a good DC grounded wideband antenna. The DB products one I can not comment on. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n7zef" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I was recently given 2 antennas, and I need to know if they could be useful > for 2 meters or in the scrap yard. > > One is a Sinclair 2 bay antenna Model # SRL210C2HD*2. Sticker on it says > the frequency os 160.860. > > The other is unknown. It is a 4 bay antenna with just the elements and > phasing harness, no boom. Each element measures 34 in total length OD, 2.75 > in width OD, 1/2 inch dia tubing. The wording stamped in the phasing harness > says D.B. Products. > > Like I said, I would like to know if these could be made to work on 2 > meters... > > 73 > Mike - N7ZEF > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Co-Locating in an Elevator Room
Interesting that you mention this. Our club runs two "cabinets" in an elevator room. One time an inspector with the British Columbia Workers Compensation Board had said that positioning radio transmitting equipment into the same room as an elevator controller was against the building code. There had to be some type of steel structure between them. There was no specification of frequency. He did say that the addendum was added to the code about 10 years ago which would fobid such things, but our installation was grandfathered. He did also mention something about maximum RF field strength allowed in the room, etc. There is also a low power (250w) FM radio transmitter on an adjacent tower which fills our repeater room with more RF than our two repeaters. Not much of an answer, but it has been my experience. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Justin W. Pauler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hello Everyone... > > I got some news today regarding my repeater and I'm a little > concerned... I think I'm getting the shaft on this deal. > > I signed a lease with a building to place an antenna on the roof and a > repeater and cabinet inside of the elevator room for a said amount of > money. About 6 months ago I completed the install and everything has > been kosher since. > > Today I got a call from the Security manager asking me to meet up with > him and the elevator maintenance man regarding a problem with my > equipment. This meeting was very simple, I was asked to remove my > equipment from the elevator room, not because it is causing problems, > but because it has the potential to cause problems. > > I was told the following things: > > 440 Mhz is "too high" of a frequency to be in an elevator room > > NFPA and the "elevator code" says that nothing can be stored inside > of an elevator room other than equipment directly relating to the operation > of the elevator system > > Even if the unit is "just receiving", it is still building up > "frequency" on the walls > of the room that will cause "bad things" to happen "eventually". > > While normally I would tell this fine maintenance man which door he > could use on his way out, he is pulling rank and telling me that if > the unit stays in the room longer than 1 month, his company will no > longer be able to honor it's service contract with the building. > So Sounds like I'm up a creek > > The fact still remains though, I've never heard of NFPA specifying > anything about elevator rooms and I've never heard of an "elevator > code" (but that's not saying it isn't out there). I've also been in > plenty of other elevator rooms in which radio frequency equipment was > housed and transmitting sometimes in excess of 10 times my power with > no issues... Why is this becoming an issue with me? > > Any suggestions? Anyone know of a good "waterproof" cabinet that can > go outside? Is that a good idea? Help. > > Justin > > -- > Justin W. Pauler > Baton Rouge, LA > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Duplexer questions
I learned a lot about the difference between the two types of duplexers from K7PP's site: http://www.k7pp.com/art003.html He describes the types of duplexers, and how they work in a few simple paragraphs. Dave Cameron VE7LTD Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: mods.dk (possiably OT)
I have an even better solution: Use the "WayBack Machine" at www.archive.org An example: http://web.archive.org/web/20040622203623/mods.dk/view.php?ArticleId=2942 This server archives the internet, and has very good archives of mods.dk, including a lot of the manuals, and simple mods. There is no limit, as it uses the code from the old site. David Cameron VE7LTD Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Western Radio Repeater Alignment
I have looked through the archives for as long as I can press "Search More" before I go insane I have been tasked with recrystalizing a WR series 90 UHF repeater. For those that dont know WR, they are the father of Glenayre equipment. I am looking for a manual to tune these modules, but I cant find one anywhere. The funny thing is WR used to be made in Vancouver BC, my home town. There are a couple of WR repeaters on the air here, but nobody seems to have the UHF module info. If the radios are similar to the WR 1454 mobiles for tuning, then I may be okay, but I doubt they are. The modules ( I think ) are the 9R90 receiver and 9T90B4 transmitter. Does anybody use these things? I have heard talk of some people with nice WR/Glenayre amplifers, does anyone have info on the modules? Now I know why I like MASTR II equipment :) David Cameron IRLP System Designer Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Isolator retuning question
The case is probably being held together by the magnets :) I had one shipped from the US to me in Canada, and customs pried mine open and broke the magnets, so be careful. Mine was tuned with small metal shims epoxied around the outside of the magents. It was a royal pain to tune as you have to see what happens to the power in all three directions. I ended up having to throw it in the useless pile, and purchased a new one for my band split. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Thomas Oliver" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > After losing a PA I am wanting to put an isolator in line before installing the new amp and was needing some information about an isolator I have, it is a Microwave Associates model # J-2101multi stage isolator origionaly on 460 Mhz. Does anyone know if it can be retuned down to 442 Mhz? or any othe specifications of this beast? I have tried to remove the outer cover and it seems to be held with something other than the 4 cover screws. > > tom n8ies Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Daniels repeater Info needed
Contact Daniels in Victoria, BC Canada. They are very helpful. They have a toll free number :) http://www.danelec.com/contact/contactus/ They shyed me away from a similar purchase a few years ago, as there were huge mods required to squeeze it into the ham band. Their modules are usually good for about 10Mhz I think. I also know that the crystal modules are not very tolerant, and may require calibration by them. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Kevin OConnell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > You must have gotten some of our USFS surplus MT-2 racks. These are rock > bound. > I have the books at work but if I remember right the VR-2 will go into > the ham bands with just a new > rock and re-tune. The VT-2 will go but there a some caps that need to be > changed. > I will take a look on Monday to make sure I am right. > > Kevin...KL0RG > > kl7fz wrote: > > > > >Hi I am looking at some used Daniels repeater equipment. These are > >the older VT-2 and VR-2 VHF modules. Currently on 169 mhz. Can > >someone tell me are these the crystal versions? What is the actual > >freq range of these modules? Are there different board versions/parts > >changes in each bands versions? > >Will these go into the ham bands with just crystal/tuning or are > >there other changes needed? > > > >Thanks > >Steve > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: New repeater buildup
I would suggest looking at Daniels Electronics from Victoria Canada. They build the best in the industry for harsh conditions that I have ever seen. http://www.danelec.com/applications/repeaters/basic.asp They have lots of products as well, and a great support team. The BC Forest service uses lots of their repeaters for their mountaintop sites that sit buried in snow 365 days of the year. Dave Cameron VE7LTD --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "russ" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I would look at a newer repeater such as an R-1 by Maggiore Labs it has a > very low draw. A Kenwood TKR-850 is a great repeater but it draws a lot more > DC power. > Both the above are great repeaters as they do NOT need a lot of TLC. They > will just run and run. > Good luck! > 73 Russ, W3CH > > - Original Message - > From: "John Everson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Friday, January 07, 2005 3:35 AM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: New repeater buildup > > > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "hooker" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > wrote: > > > Hello group, > > > > > > I have the opportunity to put up a UHF ham repeater in a fantastic > > spot. > > > However, I have some pretty stiff requirements. It will be co- > > located with > > > an existing Govt. repeater, which is solar powered. I do not have > > to supply > > > the battery or PV panel, I will use whats there. I have already > > hiked up > > > and installed the DB408 + LDF4-50 / Polyphaser. Lets see what the > > group can > > > come up with... > > > > > > > > > > > > 1. Needs to be as light as possible, since I have to hike it up to > > the top > > > of an 8K feet peak. (5 hour round trip). > > > > > > 2. Must be efficient, no heaters on crystals, etc. > > > > > > 3. Must be able to operate over wide temperature ranges, no > > heating or > > > cooling in the box. > > > > > > 4. Will be solar powered. > > > > > > 5. I am thinking a maximum of 10 watts. > > > > > > 6. It needs to be robust, with resistance to lightning strikes. > > > > > > 7. I picked out a controller, the NHRC 4, seems pretty nice. I > > want it to > > > be able to turn ON / OFF the main TX in case there is trouble. > > > > > > 8. I need TX board, RX board, and an RX control RX (420 region). > > > > > > 9. I already have the duplexer, a mobile type Celwave product. > > > > > > > > > > > > I was thinking along these lines: Obtain the RX and TX boards from > > a MOT > > > MSR2000 repeater, repackage them in lightweight BUD boxes. Install > > the > > > controller in another box. > > > > > > > > > > > > I know the group has better ideas, and I would love to hear them! > > Let them > > > flow! > > > > > > > > > > > > Thank you in advance, > > > > > > Tracy > > > > Were I you, I would do the GE MVP with the NHRC drop-in controller > > and perhaps Hamtronics or Maggiore for the control RX. Even a cheap > > HT or scanner would suffice for a control RX and you would be able to > > take advantage of the power save circuitry in most HT's. My MVP's on > > UHF and VHF draw about 130 ma during RX (just the radio, no > > controller) and the TX current draw would vary with output, but could > > be less than 3-4 amps with about 5-10 watts. I have heard of people > > using modern style power save circuits to decrease power consumption > > by 50% or more during RX idle time. > > > > You will spend too much time trying to re-invent the wheel by horsing > > with the modules and separate enclosures as well as the cables, > > feedthroughs, RF connectors etc. Not to mention the extra expense. > > The MVP is a known quantity, a known performer, in any environment. > > This will be important with the notch only style duplexer. Plus, the > > duplexing, tuning, and rack-mounting of the MVP can be done between > > breakfast and lunch. That leaves the rest of the day for > > installation. ;-) > > > > Just my two cents. > > > > John ab6li > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Interesting scam - Answer from the seller
I thought I would ask Vtrade (being a local company apparently in Delta BC) about the FCC cert on the unit... Here is their response: From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Tuesday, December 23, 2003 2:36 PM Subject: Question for seller -- Item #3066632099 Could you send me the FCC ID for this unit? I am interested in learning more about its radiation. Dave Cameron Their response: Date: Tue, 23 Dec 2003 20:25:36 -0800 From: VTrade <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Question for seller -- Item #3066632099 This unit does not emit radiation. It's electronic. Just thought you guys would like another laugh.... Dave Cameron VE7LTD Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] What causes a repeater to become microphonic?
I have a Harris Alpha 2000 UHF (ex radio telephone) running full duplex service, which has been in service for 7 years now... Great radio. We had some recent additions to the spectrum in Vancouver, so I had to remove my preamp. When I did, I noticed that the carrier hangtime of the repeater had a lot of noise on it. I was in the repeater shack talking to myself, when my buddy came on and keyed up and said "Your transmit audio is WAY to low". To myself (I was thinking) I said out loud "you must be on crack, I havent touched anything". Then, to my suprise, he replied Then I realized all I had to do was yell at the casing, and he heard me fine This is the only one of these repeaters I have in service that is this way, and I dont think it was before. My old frequency generator is also microphonic, but that is ancient. Is it something to do with synthesizers? What causes a repeater to become microphonic? Dave Cameron VE7LTD Yahoo! Groups Links To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
