[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. > > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. > Thanks. > > Mathew >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The > TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series > radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power > level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you > have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? > > Joe - WA7JAW > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" wrote: > > > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the > > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the > > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though > > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. > > > > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, I will have a look in our Micor VHF high power cabinet when I get to the shop tomorrow. Presently I have a V, a U and a low band Micor high power cabinet in the shop, that we are reading to get all of them up in service before the snow flys. Joe --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to > TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright > RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp > will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of > the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all > the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. > > I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for > the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has > several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to > get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to > our frequency. > > I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater > was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" > wrote: > > > > Mathew, > > Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The > > TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor > series > > radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the > power > > level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply > you > > have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or > 240V? > > > > Joe - WA7JAW > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" wrote: > > > > > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to > the > > > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at > the > > > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure > though > > > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. > > > > > > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and > running. > > > Thanks. > > > > > > Mathew > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I did mention that this is a VHF Micor Upright RT system, as I bought all the parts, just did not get the cabinet. I am very familiar with the voltages at hand, I am not in anyway new to this, however I have been dealing with a disease that has affected my memory and thinking process of which I currently found out what it was. Lime Disease. Anyways, the help that I am asking for is to note where all the extra wires goes. I have been looking at the schematics, thus is how I found that the ac power cord goes to the High Voltage PS. I have put all the pieces back in line per the manual. When I hook up the low voltage and high voltage power supply, just don't want to mix the wires up. If it were straigt forward in numbering it would not be so bad. I am going to be back at it this afternoon, and hopefully fire it up, or catch it on fire, hi hi.. So it's not that I don't know what I am doing, I just need someone to hollar at once I find a wire that I am not sure where it belongs. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > WOW ! > > I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. > First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater > that you know nothing about > Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. > Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified > repeater that has now a "KW" amp. > > That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has > a frequency exciter, PA receiver... > If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz > if the "B" was a "C" then that would be > Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was > "D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz > If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then > 806-960 MHz . > > Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with > but should have been able to figure out with the manual. > > Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This > may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . > But you have to live through it to learn. > > There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the > line voltage. > > Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was > made in 68 I think. > Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to > help. > Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill > yourself, we will teach you. > > If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over > and just keep an eye on you. > Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. > > Then have fun. > > The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. > There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of > the transformer on the hi voltage supply > To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 > Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. > > The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. > If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on > the band. > > There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will > get to those. > You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where > you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. > Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. > > Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even > the smartest person can save you life via email. > > Good luck, > Robert / KD4PBC > > > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to > TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright > RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp > will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of > the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all > the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. > > I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for > the system to function, and that there is a
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
The harness is in full tack from what I see, nothing seems to be cut or missing. I am going out now to get a list of all the parts. Will report back shortly. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > How are you on the harness ? > > Robert >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. >From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > How are you on the harness ? > > Robert >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a > tracer is the CT. > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been > the rear door interlock. > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > Robert > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > TPN1132A - LV PS > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > forward. > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > name, regardless the colors are: > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > Brown/Green > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > White > White/Black > Brown/White > Black and Dark Grey together > Solid grey > Brown/Yellow > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > Red/Green > Red/Yellow > Red/White > Two Grey Together > White/Green > Solid Grey > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, > only an assumption. > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from > the harness. > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > The other wires are: > > Brown/White > Brown/Yellow > Tan/Black > Red/Yellow > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as > follows: > > TB1-3 = Blue > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > TB1-2 = Blue > TB1-7 = Yellow > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > TB1-6 = Yellow > > Thanks for the help > > Mathew > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > reversable between either TP1 points? > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch > card, but was told they were not needed. > > Mathew > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > Mathew, > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > one with a > > tracer is the CT. > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > have been > > the rear door interlock. > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > pictures and > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > Robert > > > > -Original Message----- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > bear > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what > I > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, > some > > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > > forward. > > > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > > name, regardless the colors are: > > > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > > Brown/Green > > > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached > inside > > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > > > White > > White/Black > > Brown/White > > Black and Dark Grey together > > Solid grey > > Brown/Yellow > > > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > > > Red/Green > > Red/Yellow > > Red/White > > Two Grey Together > > White/Green > > Solid Grey > > > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the > > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering > panel, > > only an assumption. > > > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from > > the harness. > > > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am > > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > > > The other wires are: > > > > Brown/White > > Brown/Yellow > > Tan/Black > > Red/Yellow > > > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I > do > > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as > > follows: > > > > TB1-3 = Blue > > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > > TB1-2 = Blue > > TB1-7 = Yellow > > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > > TB1-6 = Yellow > > > > Thanks for the help > > > > Mathew > > > > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no > difference > > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > > reversable between either TP1 points? > > > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got > left. > > > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires > go. > > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not > be a big problem. > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire > wound mother. > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans on the 2 > heat sinks. > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 > to 20 hours a day. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey > of the mic? > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > transfer > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > cards > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > Station > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > squelch > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > Mathew > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > Mathew, > > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > > one with a > > > tracer is the CT. > > > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > > have been > > > the rear door interlock. > > > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > > pictures and > > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > > bear > > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales > me. > > > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of > what > > I > > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > > > Here
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or ed so there is no squelch crash. More details if you need them.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "sgreact47" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and > with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. > I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the > receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, > stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or > ed so there is no squelch crash. > > More details if you need them. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks, will see how the system reacts once it is wired up and fired up. I am just working towards finding a proper home for each loose wire in the system. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "sgreact47" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The Micor receiver has a very fast squelch /audio muting circuit and > with the correct and gating, you do NOT need any audio delay. > I always use the Squelch Gate card as it's characteristics match the > receiver very well. The SG is used for the Repeater Squelch signal, > stock configuration. The receiver squelch and the PL decode is and/or > ed so there is no squelch crash. > > More details if you need them. >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, I have several of these in service for 440 MHz amateur use. They are the 225 watt UHF version. Most of the control wiring that connects to the unified chassis is similar. I use the station control module and the squelch gate card. This makes use of all of the proper keyed A- paths for the exciter channel element and keying. This configuration will also provide you with the turn on delay that prevents the transmitter from keying before the tube is all warmed up. This is very important for tube life. I would recommend using the factory station PL encoder and decoder if you have them available. If you decide to use the factory PL boards, make sure the radio is configured for "AND" squelch. You should be able to retune the PA cavity for 2 Meters, but if you are much below 147 MHz with your transmit frequency, you may need to find a low split 138 - 150 MHz solid state PA board for the PA that is used to drive the tube. The only thing I change in these radios is the coax from the output of the PA to the harmonic filter. I use a piece of 3/8" superflex to replace the factory piece of coax, and the tube PA is much happier. We found the factory coax will get warm when the transmitter is keyed for 15 minutes or longer. I have used both the Arcom and Link-Com controllers and they both work fine with these radios. I did not make it to the shop today, but I will take the digital camera and try and get some photos for you tomorrow. Sounds like you are making progress. Joe - WA7JAW --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch > card, but was told they were not needed. > > Mathew
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Thanks Robert, I am going out into the shack tonight, I think I am going to trace each wire and see just where they go, this should hopefully help me find a home for each one. I lloked at TB1 where some of the wires goes, says they should come from the PA, but then they don't exactly correspond to the points listed on the PA. Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with > so239 connectors. > I'll include pictures of that also. > It still looks good to get to shop today. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are > referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same > amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a > spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That > should not > > be a big problem. > > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in > the PURC > > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big > wire > > wound mother. > > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you > remove the > > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side > (from front) > > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans > on the 2 > > heat sinks. > > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after > we added > > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more > years. > > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an > average of 18 > > to 20 hours a day. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same > purpose > > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the > unkey > > of the mic? > > > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz > and > > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > > transfer > > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > > > Robert.. > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > > cards > > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > > Station > > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > > squelch > > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mike, I am on old TV radio/tech repair for RCA and Zenith, so understandig the voltage is not the question I had. What I am refereing to, is take for example, I have a 200 watt amplifier that came from the factory with 6 guage wire on it, much like the kids that is buying the 4 guage wire to run the 200 watt class D amps for the deep sub, were talking about how they accomplish 1/2 KW with all small wires. You would not wire your 220 amp with such small wires. I'm just curious how they can handle the amps with such small wires. Where is the big leads. Example, to the 10 watt exciter, they have 12 guage wires, why would they not have something like that going to such a high voltage amp. Thats is all that I am curious about. Much like the 35kv carrier for a tube was 14 guage wire with a heavy insulator around it. I understand your concerns, and trust me, I am in no way interested in getting shocked not to mention, I hate it when that happens. I just am trying to concept why they use such small wires with nothing larger to carry the amperage much like a standard 25 watt radio would for two meters. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > At 05:43 PM 09/03/08, you wrote: > >Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, > >but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it > >would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have > >at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How > >do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? > > This is the kind of comment that worries the old farts. > > 20ga wire can carry an amp. > 18 ga can carry at least three amps. > > The UHF Micor amp book (the only high power book I have > handy) says that the final amp runs at 1,500 volts at up to > 400 mils. > > That's 4/10 of an amp. 1/10 can kill you if it's applied right. > > 1500v can ruin your survivors entire day. > > Do I have to say it? WATCH OUT FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE. > > If you don't have experience with it DON'T WORK ALONE. > > There's a reason they used to tell the old techs to keep > one hand in their pocket - it prevented getting a lethal > level of current from hot (one hand) to ground (the other > hand) and incidentally through the chest. The heart muscle > does it's thing with millivolts and milliamps. > > Matt, I don't mean to be insulting, or demeaning your skills, > but this is YOUR LIFE we are talking about. > > If I were in your shoes when ever I was going to have my > hands inside that beast with the power on I'd have a > second person in the room, even if they were sitting in a > chair across the room and studying a textbook. > Or watching TV. > > Show them what switch to flip off (or better yet what power > cord to unplug) before they drag your ass out of the cabinet > and begin practicing their CPR skills. > > Mike WA6ILQ >
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
WOW ! I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater that you know nothing about Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified repeater that has now a "KW" amp. That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has a frequency exciter, PA receiver... If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz if the "B" was a "C" then that would be Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was "D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then 806-960 MHz . Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with but should have been able to figure out with the manual. Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . But you have to live through it to learn. There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the line voltage. Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was made in 68 I think. Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to help. Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill yourself, we will teach you. If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over and just keep an eye on you. Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. Then have fun. The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of the transformer on the hi voltage supply To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on the band. There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will get to those. You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even the smartest person can save you life via email. Good luck, Robert / KD4PBC -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The > TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series > radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power > level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you > have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? > > Joe - WA7JAW > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" wrote: > > > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the > > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the > > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure though > > where the ac power comes in on the low voltage power supply. > > > > Really need some help getting this repeater wired up and running. > > Thanks. > > > > Mathew > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Just looked you up on QRZ.com. Nice Shack looks like you may have some HV experience. Still be careful ! Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KD4PBC Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 9:47 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions WOW ! I'm sorry but I feel that I must chime in on this project. First you wanted to find out how to hook up and power supply on a repeater that you know nothing about Except that that it has a 330 watt amp. Now you think that you know how to hook up the power on a still unidentified repeater that has now a "KW" amp. That said. Sounds like you have a Motorola Micor. Look at anything that has a frequency exciter, PA receiver... If the part number is like TLB-3130 then the "B" leans low band 27 -50MHz if the "B" was a "C" then that would be Mid band 72-75 MHz (never seen High power but there is always SP) if it was "D" then VHF High band 150-170 MHz If it was "E" UHF somewhere from 406-512 MHz and finally if it was "F" then 806-960 MHz . Now that you may have a better understanding of what you are dealing with but should have been able to figure out with the manual. Let me say that you have no business working on this monster yourself. This may be all new to you and Ham radio is all about learning . But you have to live through it to learn. There are several points in the Micors that can kill you starting with the line voltage. Micors are old I know this because I worked on one of the 1st ones that was made in 68 I think. Because of that there are a lot of us old guys out there that are willing to help. Find one of us. We will help, we will make sure that you don't kill yourself, we will teach you. If you can't find one of us to come over and help have a friend come over and just keep an eye on you. Tell him what to unplug and who to call if something does happen. Then have fun. The low voltage power supply goes under the hi voltage supply in the rack. There are some yellow and blue wires that connect the low voltage side of the transformer on the hi voltage supply To the rectifiers, filters and, regulators for the IPA 12Volt, the Audio 12 Volt and the 9.6 Volt for the channel element. The harness should be in one piece and just plug into various places. If the harness has been cut then I may be able to get you one depending on the band. There are some mods to the PA that will make the tubes last forever we will get to those. You most likely will not need to do anything to the PA depending on where you are in the Ham band 145 MHz I'm unsure I have been down to 146.940. Again pending final outcome of what it is you have. Mathew SAFETY FIRST. There is a lot of knowledge on this board but not even the smartest person can save you life via email. Good luck, Robert / KD4PBC -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:18 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions In parts, I think I have figured out that the ac powerline does go to TP1 on the high voltage amp. This is the VHF Motorola Micor Upright RT system with the KW amplifier. Although I am told that the amp will have to be converted to make it down to 145.410. The rest of the repeater has already been converted. I will give a list of all the TLN parts tomorrow. I do have the service manual on the system. I know there are several switches that must be closed in order for the system to function, and that there is a wire harness that has several connectors on it that I am not sure where they go. I want to get the repeater up and functional, then I will go about tuning it to our frequency. I'm working diligently to get this up and running hence our repeater was struck by lightning last month and destroyed. Thanks Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Joe Burkleo" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Can you give us a little more info on what you are working with. The > TPN1132A tells me that you are most likely working with a Micor series > radio. Is this a low band, V, U or 800 MHz radio and what is the power > level? That will help us identify which high voltage power supply you > have and how it should be wired. Are you wiring this for 120V or 240V? > > Joe - WA7JAW > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "n9lv" wrote: > > > > I am trying to wire up the TPN1132A low voltage power supply to the > > high voltage power supply and need some help. I am looking at the > > manual, I think I have some of it figured out. I am not sure th
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. How are you on the harness ? Robert
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a tracer is the CT. I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been the rear door interlock. Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and notes on a complete station I have at the shop. What cards do you have in card cage ? Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. TPN1132A - LV PS TPN1131A-1 HV PS TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE TLN4727A - RECEIVER TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight forward. >From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another name, regardless the colors are: Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) Brown/Green These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, I'm thinking possibly safety switches. White White/Black Brown/White Black and Dark Grey together Solid grey Brown/Yellow These wires have ring terminals on them Red/Green Red/Yellow Red/White Two Grey Together White/Green Solid Grey There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, only an assumption. Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from the harness. Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. The other wires are: Brown/White Brown/Yellow Tan/Black Red/Yellow And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as follows: TB1-3 = Blue TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow TB1-2 = Blue TB1-7 = Yellow TB1-5 = Yellow/Green TB1-6 = Yellow Thanks for the help Mathew Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be reversable between either TP1 points? And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > How are you on the harness ? > > Robert > Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch card, but was told they were not needed. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the one with a > tracer is the CT. > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would have been > the rear door interlock. > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take pictures and > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > Robert > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please bear > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > TPN1132A - LV PS > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what I > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, some > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > forward. > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > name, regardless the colors are: > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > Brown/Green > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached inside > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > White > White/Black > Brown/White > Black and Dark Grey together > Solid grey > Brown/Yellow > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > Red/Green > Red/Yellow > Red/White > Two Grey Together > White/Green > Solid Grey > > There is a wire that has a small round push on type just behind the > Remote Control, I'm thinking this must goto J5 on the metering panel, > only an assumption. > > Going all the way down to the HV PS there is a group of wires from > the harness. > > Red and Black 12 Guage wires, that follows up to the exciter, I am > sure this is the 12v source for the transmitter. > > The other wires are: > > Brown/White > Brown/Yellow > Tan/Black > Red/Yellow > > And last but not least, wires from the HV going to the LV, which I do > believe will connect to TB1 on the LV and if correct should be as > follows: > > TB1-3 = Blue > TB1-1 = Blue/Yellow > TB1-2 = Blue > TB1-7 = Yellow > TB1-5 = Yellow/Green > TB1-6 = Yellow > > Thanks for the help > > Mathew > > > Going to make another assumption here, there should be no difference > in both solid blues or solid yellows, and that they should be > reversable between either TP1 points? > > And the AC input power goes to TB1 on the HV power supply > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No problem Mathew just don't want to lose what few Hams we got left. > > > > I will look at a station today and let you know where the wires go. > > How are you on the harness ? > > > > Robert > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not be a big problem. Just stay within the limits of the tube. There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire wound mother. The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans on the 2 heat sinks. It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 to 20 hours a day. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey of the mic? Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC transfer > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the cards > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the Station > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and squelch > card, but was told they were not needed. > > Mathew > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > Mathew, > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > one with a > > tracer is the CT. > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > have been > > the rear door interlock. > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > pictures and > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > Robert > > > > -Original Message----- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > bear > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales me. > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > TPN1131A-1 HV PS > > TCN1107A - REMOTE CONTROL MODULE > > TLN4727A - RECEIVER > > TLD1942B - EXCITER/DRIVER > > TLN1675A-1 METERING CHASSIS > > TLD5082A - POWER AMPLIFIER > > > > I am looking at the scematics and trying to figure out most of what > I > > can. Reading them is not bad, but difficult to keep track of. > > > > Here is a list of wires that I am not certain with at this time, > some > > of which I know after looking at the schems, is almost straight > > forward. > > > > From the top of the wiring harness from the power amplifier. > > There is two wires with c-clips on them, others call them another > > name, regardless the colors are: > > > > Blue/Yellow (about a 22g wire) > > Brown/Green > > > > These connectors are slip on type, I would think they attached > inside > > the cabinet as I don't see anywhere on the system to plug them in, > > I'm thinking possibly safety switches. > > > > White > > White/Black > > Brown/White > > Black and Dark Grey together > > Solid grey > > Brown/Yellow > > > > These wires have ring terminals on them > > > > Red/Green > >
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
Mathew, It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with so239 connectors. I'll include pictures of that also. It still looks good to get to shop today. Robert.. -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That should not > be a big problem. > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in the PURC > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big wire > wound mother. > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you remove the > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side (from front) > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans on the 2 > heat sinks. > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after we added > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more years. > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an average of 18 > to 20 hours a day. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same purpose > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the unkey > of the mic? > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz and > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > transfer > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:38 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > I would agree on the b/y and b/g as being a switch. As for the > cards > > in the cards installed, there is just the Line Driver and the > Station > > Control. I have the tone cards, repeater card, line card and > squelch > > card, but was told they were not needed. > > > > Mathew > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > Mathew, > > > Correct on the solid yellows and blues each one is an end and the > > one with a > > > tracer is the CT. > > > > > > I think that the blue/yellow and the brown/green go to what would > > have been > > > the rear door interlock. > > > > > > Did not make it to warehouse today (car troubles) I will take > > pictures and > > > notes on a complete station I have at the shop. > > > > > > What cards do you have in card cage ? > > > > > > Robert > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:48 PM > > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > > > Here is a list of parts in this system, thanks to all and please > > bear > > > with me as life has been hard with God only knows what now ales > me. > > > > > > TPN1132A - LV PS > > > T
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
At 05:43 PM 09/03/08, you wrote: >Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, >but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it >would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have >at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How >do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? This is the kind of comment that worries the old farts. 20ga wire can carry an amp. 18 ga can carry at least three amps. The UHF Micor amp book (the only high power book I have handy) says that the final amp runs at 1,500 volts at up to 400 mils. That's 4/10 of an amp. 1/10 can kill you if it's applied right. 1500v can ruin your survivors entire day. Do I have to say it? WATCH OUT FOR THE HIGH VOLTAGE. If you don't have experience with it DON'T WORK ALONE. There's a reason they used to tell the old techs to keep one hand in their pocket - it prevented getting a lethal level of current from hot (one hand) to ground (the other hand) and incidentally through the chest. The heart muscle does it's thing with millivolts and milliamps. Matt, I don't mean to be insulting, or demeaning your skills, but this is YOUR LIFE we are talking about. If I were in your shoes when ever I was going to have my hands inside that beast with the power on I'd have a second person in the room, even if they were sitting in a chair across the room and studying a textbook. Or watching TV. Show them what switch to flip off (or better yet what power cord to unplug) before they drag your ass out of the cabinet and begin practicing their CPR skills. Mike WA6ILQ
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
1500 volts at 1 amp is the same as 1500 amps at 1 volt = 1500 watts only difference is 1 amp requires a small wire and 1500 amps a BIG wire. Power is power no matter how you get there. There should be a plug coming from the low voltage supply to the upper left (from back) of the control chassis. On the upper right there should be another plug with quite a few wires on it. Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:44 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions Thanks Robert, I am going out into the shack tonight, I think I am going to trace each wire and see just where they go, this should hopefully help me find a home for each one. I lloked at TB1 where some of the wires goes, says they should come from the PA, but then they don't exactly correspond to the points listed on the PA. Now just a more curious point, something I guess I just don't grasp, but all the wires going up to the PA are 18 guage or less wires, it would seem to me that with such high power output that it would have at least a few larger wires at least of the 12 guage or better. How do they accomplish this with such a small set of wires? Mathew --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Mathew, > It should be on the back of the chimney it has labeled input and output with > so239 connectors. > I'll include pictures of that also. > It still looks good to get to shop today. > > Robert.. > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 8:30 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > Looking at the amp I don't see the low pass filter that you are > referring to. I just remembered, I have another one of these same > amps in the basement that was given to me, so I at least have a > spare. Can you describe what the low pass filter might look like? > > Mathew > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > No it just buffers the COR no audio delay. > > The amp will work at 145 it will just not be as efficient. That > should not > > be a big problem. > > Just stay within the limits of the tube. > > > > There are 2 different amps for the VHF micor the 250 watt used in > the PURC > > and Micor and the 350 Watt used in early PURCs and all Micors. > > The only difference is a resistor on the screen I think. It's a big > wire > > wound mother. > > The PA and most importantly the tubes will last forever if you > remove the > > rear shield and relocate the low pass filter to the right side > (from front) > > You will see the holes there already. Then mount 2 4" muffin fans > on the 2 > > heat sinks. > > It takes them from to hot to touch to cool. > > We did this on about 50 paging transmitters back in the day after > we added > > the fans we never replaced another tube and I was there for 3 more > years. > > These transmitters were on P6 (158.7000) and were keyed for an > average of 18 > > to 20 hours a day. > > > > Robert.. > > > > -Original Message- > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of n9lv > > Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 7:52 PM > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > > If I understand Motorola right, this is would serve the same > purpose > > as a audio delay board to remove the squelch tail heard on the > unkey > > of the mic? > > > > Also, how clean do you think the amp might be down at 145.410 MHz > and > > not be spurious? I am sure there will be a reduction in power, but > > if I get 300 watts out I would be happy. > > > > Mathew > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "KD4PBC" <900@> wrote: > > > > > > There are 100s of ways to do it I always use the F1-PL or the DC > > transfer > > > for the Chanel element ground but others just jumper it. > > > Squelch gate card is nice for buffer from audio squelch card. > > > > > > Robert.. > > > > > > -Original Message
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
n9lv wrote: > Mike, I am on old TV radio/tech repair for RCA and Zenith, so > understandig the voltage is not the question I had. What I am > refereing to, is take for example, I have a 200 watt amplifier that > came from the factory with 6 guage wire on it, much like the kids > that is buying the 4 guage wire to run the 200 watt class D amps for > the deep sub, were talking about how they accomplish 1/2 KW with all > small wires. You would not wire your 220 amp with such small wires. > I'm just curious how they can handle the amps with such small wires. > Where is the big leads. That's the point-it's NOT handling the current, because the current isn't there. Someone mentioned, I think, 1500V @ 300-400mA...or something like that...the wire only has to handle less than a 1/2 amp!
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
- Original Message - From: "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:36 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions >[snip] > Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there > again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. > > > > Robert You can always try covering half of the flash "lens" with your finger to reduce the flash output for close-ups... George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
I've tried that and they come out red. Robert -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of George Henry Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:26 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions - Original Message - From: "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:36 AM Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions >[snip] > Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there > again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. > > > > Robert You can always try covering half of the flash "lens" with your finger to reduce the flash output for close-ups... George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 Yahoo! Groups Links
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions
They come out red because your flesh acts like a filter, the camera microprocessor compensates and dials up the lower light frequencies, which happens to be red. Use a piece of white paper - a paper napkin or even a few layers of toilet paper. Do not cover part of the strobe light reflector with something opaque as that will shade one side of the object of interest and the photo will come out with (for example) the right side illuminated, and the left side dark.. One trick I've successfully used is to back off a few feet and then zoom back in so the framing is the same as when you were close with no zoom. The camera flash has to cover more square footage (since the camera is further back) and the amount of light that lands on the object of interest is reduced. After the Canon digital camera I had was stolen I replaced it with another and specifically looked for one with at least 3X mechanical zoom. The one I now have has a 4x mechanical zoom and I've been very happy with it. Last night I took some photos of a Teletek mobile repeater (anyone have any info on them?) and the light source in some was a the camera flash, in others a street light, in others was a LED flashlight, and in the last set was a fluorescent light under a restaurant canopy. I'm amazed at how well they turned out considering the circumstances. Mike WA6ILQ At 06:03 AM 09/05/08, you wrote: >I've tried that and they come out red. > >Robert > >-Original Message- >From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of George Henry >Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 11:26 PM >To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > >- Original Message - >From: "KD4PBC" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >To: >Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 9:36 AM >Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: TPN1132A Wireup help and questions > > > >[snip] > > Pictures did not come out as the flash washed them out. I am going there > > again today hopefully in daylight and will try again. > > > > > > > > Robert > > >You can always try covering half of the flash "lens" with your finger to >reduce the flash output for close-ups... > > >George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > >Yahoo! Groups Links > > >
