Fwd: [RCSE] Help in open CA bottles
This may not be the best solution,but I have been using CA glue since it first came on the market almost 30 years ago.I have never felt the need to find a better way so I feel what I do and am sure many others also do is not too far off the mark. Teflon tubing, smallest diameter you can find for thin and larger for gap filling. I do not use thick, period. Too mush weight.I am a HLG guy. It is a pain to fit it into the top of the container but worth the time. Use as long a piece as you can stand. When it clogs, pull the clog off with your fingers. If that doesn't work, cut the end off with a razor blade. If your tube gets too short , put a new one on. The tubing is so cheap, get it at the hobby shop, from Satalite City if they are still around, or from many electrical stores, not Radio Shack. I have helped a number of people at the field do a repair and always get the same comment, that is the smallest applicator I have ever seen. I would use a teaspoon to apply my CA but it is really heavy and I am the ultimate misor, says my ex girlfriend. Soar on! From: Rodriguez Wilson, Ricardo [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Help in open CA bottles Date: Mon, 14 May 2001 09:25:05 -0400 Folks, In case a CA bottle get the pinhole closed, How can I reopen it? ... I have one... Is there in the web a page about how to care CA glue bottles? All I know for now is to keep them in the fridge. Thanks in advance. Atte., RRW RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Fw: something to think about ?
Fully built with servos , pilots etc ??? - Original Message - From: Sal DeFrancesco [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: John C [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 3:44 PM Subject: Re: [RCSE] Fw: something to think about ? Nice site but would not agree with the great prices. The models are nice but hard to tell what the quality is like. The Eastern european manufactureres are in the same price range as the Fox but fully built and molded. John C wrote: There is a new frontier in aeromodelling in general and scale sailplanes in particular. It is the land downunder (Australia!) We are fortunate to have some of the finest aeromodellers who have achieved a lot on the local and world stage. Also we are now lucky enough to have some of the finest kit and accessory manufacturers. The advantage to the overseas customer, is that currently the value of the Australian dollar has dropped to less than half the US dollar and with shipping rates lower than you may expect, you are in a great position to take advantage of this. Now is the time! Australia is the new frontier! Here is a new manufacturer on the world stage .Regularly updated pic gallery and some of the best Scale sailplane and towplane kit and accessories prices you will find anywhere ! www.compositescalemodels.com.au RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] -- Sal DeFrancesco Northeast Sailplane Products 948 Hercules Dr. Suite 12 Colchester, Vt. 05446 802-655-7700 Website: http://www.nesail.com RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] right turns?Left turns?
i have noticed that most people who DS will usually make left turns. at speeds over 150 mph with a 60" plane i am more comfortable making left turns even tho i am equally good at right turns. but most people tend to turn left. now that i think about it it just seems more natural and precise to move the stick toward the center of the transmitter than to move the stick away from the center. i think it has to do with the way the hand structure works and by your hands being to the side of the sticks. so if this is the case rt turn with the rudder stick would feel more comfortable than left rudder. paul
Re: [RCSE] Right Turns?Left Turns?
As long as you don't try turning the bow or the gun backwards before shooting VBG. Smooth Sailing, Karlton Spindle http://www.MultiplexRC.com - Original Message - From: Terry Mickle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: RCSE [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 2:35 PM Subject: [RCSE] Right Turns?Left Turns? I am mostly right handed but can only do some things left handed. I play pool, shoot a rifle and a shoot a bow left handed. Everything else I do right handed. I am terrible when I try to switch. I prefer to turn right but not by much. Terry Mickle Southern Oregon Soaring Society RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] highstart
I'm using 600 feet of line with 100 feet of the Holladay 1/8 thick wall 3/8 tubing. It provides a steady pull all the way up. If there is enough wind, say 18-20 MPH, when it reaches the top, it will kite and restretch the rubber far more than I would doing 100 paces. It gets very high, probably 600 feet or moreand if the nose is then tipped over, you can gain enough speed to fly off under tension. The zooms are spectacular. - Original Message - From: Andrew E. Mileski [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 2:31 PM Subject: Re: [RCSE] highstart Bob Spencer wrote: My old Eye Soar has a new radio installed and is all trimmed and balanced, ready to fly. As soon as the new tubing for the highstart arrives, it's up, up and away. Checking out my old highstart, which is in good condition except for the rubber, I find I have 450 feet of line, or so, on it. Cruising the web, I found some recommendations for highstart measurements which were for 100 feet of rubber and 350 feet of line. I was always pleased with the way my highstart functioned, so I'll probably go with that, initially, but I was wondering if there is any disadvantage to having more line. Any thoughts? 1) If it ain't broke, don't fix it. 2) Extra line means added weight to pull aloft, but it can also mean extra altitude. Test it! 3) 3.5:1 is a rule of thumb, but thumbs vary in size :) -- Andrew E. Mileski RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Fw: ??Hobby Lobby RDS CLONE??
Subject: ??Hobby Lobby RDS CLONE?? Guys. . .no way is what is shown in the Hobby Lobby catalog as item CH901 a RDS clone. It appeared on the market many years ago as the Swingee. ACE R/C once stocked them as did Tower, but discontinued them. There is no similarity between the RDS and the Swingee in installation, mechanics or operation. The Swingee requires an output arm on a servo, a pushrod and a Swivel Link type fitting on its threaded arm. I fussed with them in my BUZZBAT sloper (March, 1986 MA), in the thermal ships ATRIX (Dec. '86 MA) and KEETAH (June '89 RCM. ) I have a lot of experience with them, all bad. After buying about 40 pair, I gave up in total frustration. One good thing about them. . . .they were singularly responsible for making me want to find a better way. They do not provide enough throw, even linked for maximum deflection. Given the thin wings we use, there is no vertical space to use a long output arm on the servo. Most are too stiff or too sloppy and vary within an opposing pair. You get slop or bind. If you get what seems a good matched pair, they quickly wear and get sloppy. Being about 1/4 thick at the hingeline, they are too bulky to mount firmly in thin sailplane wings. They should be screw-mounted on at least a 1/8 base to hold them firmly. Any glue, particularly CA, can easily wick-join moving parts. If glued in, joints can easily break and there is no access to try to firmly reglue. The rear section that deflects the surface is beveled toward its rear edge. Trying to fabricate a beveled slot within a flap or aileron to fit it is essentially impossible. I could never get one to fit well. Further, there is a section of the thing that is always exposed in a thin surface and looks ugly. The RDS overcomes all these limitations. Full information is on the website below. It took almost 10 years of development from initial concept to production of the couplers. With them it is easy to do a custom RDS installation. You are missing so much if you are not using them to help eliminate slop, drag, noise and clutter. Besides the website, a manual is available that gives the details. There are eighteen 8-1/2 x 11 pages of pics, drawings and text. $5.95 postpaid from me at the address below. HARLEY MICHAELIS, LSF 023, 26 S. Roosevelt, Walla Walla, Wa 99362 RDS website http://www.proptwisters.org/rds2/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] highstart
2) Extra line means added weight to pull aloft, but it can also mean extra altitude. Test it! That brings up another point I've been meaning to ask about, the type of line. I've always used monofilament lines instead of the braided or twisted soft lines, because they are light weight and would seem to create less drag. Anyone have any thoughts about that? Bob RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] highstart
If there is enough wind, say 18-20 MPH, when it reaches the top, it will kite and restretch the rubber far more than I would doing 100 paces. It gets very high, probably 600 feet or moreand if the nose is then tipped over, you can gain enough speed to fly off under tension. The zooms are spectacular. Yes, I'm familiar with that, and it's fun, but I won't be doing that for at least a while, and not with my current models. These are true nostalgic birds, not only designed in the time period but also built back then, at least 25 years ago. Maybe when/if I advance to some younger and tougher planes. Bob RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Re: Histart
If there is enough wind, say 18-20 MPH At 18-20 mph, its time for the slope. You CAN thermal in it, but I've found that much over 10 gets challenging and over 15 and my Spirit is better left at home. Besides, the lift gets spotty and hard to circle in. But I definitely agree about the height and zoom. My 1/4 Hollyday rubber will do a little of the same for my Spirit at 10 -15 mph. Heck, I have a foam Corsair that is perfectly suited to a steep hill and 20 MPH, so I don't jeopardize my balsa babies for an incredible zoom. Anyway, I've found (in my 2 meager years of soaring) that much over 350 -400 feet is just a longer roll out and roll in and doesn't significantly heighten the launch of a plane with properly sized rubber. Thick rubber with a light plane is probably another story, but you may well benifit more from longer, lighter rubber for a light plane than the stronger rubber. The light plane may just skid throught the air from the harder pull without gaining much altitude or speed. Just a thought. Empirical data would be the ultimate test to this thought experiment. Tom Koszuta RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] looking for Pat McCleave
Hey Pat, I need to talk to you, and don't have your address. Dave Hauch RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] vac bagging technique question?
Having watched other people do it; I quickly jump to a conclusion which most likely is wrong. Two things happen in the creation of the leading edge. The leading edge was created originally with sanding. A very long sanding device with a hard back must be used to get a consistent surface and radius without concave points. Similarly a tool like this must be used when finishing the glass layer. Typically we want the leading edge reinforced. Consequently we put extra there. Suggested technique should work very well. Now we are ready for the problems. On the sanding of the glass it is typical to substitute pressure for course fast cutting sandpaper. With fine sandpaper at this stage kit would not be uncommon to be pushing into the glass. My suggestion will create horror in the eyes of most people . Use a sixty grit paint remover grit of one of the better materials. In otherwords flint just will not cut it. Make sure you go lightly . Keep the heat down. It is very easy to create heat with fine paper and haste. If the original long hard back was used to get a good contour before covering then the clean up with the course afterwards should not take all that long. If the original surface was rippled then you will cut through no matter how you do it on the high spots. Now we shall hear how others do it. Rick Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:17:17 -0700 From: Marc Webster [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: vac bagging technique question? Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello all, With the demise of my addiction, I plan to bag another set of wings over the memorial day holiday. I want to try something new and I thought I would run it buy everyone to get some feedback before I bag my wing. I have bagged many wings, and hate all of the sanding that is required of the leading edge. I usually, cut my materials an inch or so larger than my mylars and after I lay the core on the bottom mylar, I fold over the remaining material over the leading edge and onto the top of the core. I then fold over my top skin mylar and the extra inch of material attaches itself to the folded material and continues forward to nothing. The problem with this is after I cut off the flash, I need to sand my leading edge quite a bit to get the proper shape back. To alleviate this I was going to try a new technique, and I am sure someone else out there does it this way and I could use some feedback. What I want to try is this. Could I possibly attach a ribbon of glass along the leading edge prior to bagging with a light coating of 3M 77. I could mix a small batch of epoxy and wet out this ribbon, then set the wing halves aside for say 30 minutes. after the 30 minutes has passed, I could start to wet out my layup on the mylars. when this is done, I would trim the material flush with the mylars. I could then lay my core in and fold over the top skin. If the core was placed accurately enough, the mylars would stop just short of the tip of the leading edge. When it came time to remove from the bag, there would be a small ridge the full length of the leading edge top and bottom where the mylar ended. This would be much easier to sand smooth and my leading edge would be more accurate. Does anyone out there do it this way. If so, any tips you could pass on. Is there a better way? I am open to any and all suggestions. Another problem I have run into is; after the occasional dork landing, my wings swing forward and my root ribs tend to get pushed into the foam and separate from the surface. I placed a dowel inside the fuselage to keep it from cracking at the wing joint. The result of this is my fuselage does not absorb any of the energy and my root ribs get pushed in. I may get rid of the dowell altogether or replace it with an elastomer bushing as I would rather replace fuselages than wings. I also may drill small holes all around the root rib, this would allow epoxy to fill the holes and act as rivets or nails between the skin and the root rib. Anyone else have this problem? How did you fix it? Thank you for your time, Marc Webster RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] vac bagging technique question?
Another problem I have run into is; after the occasional dork landing, my wings swing forward and my root ribs tend to get pushed into the foam and separate from the surface. I placed a dowel inside the fuselage to keep it from cracking at the wing joint. Your problem is your wing joiner - it is not strong enough and your wings fold forward. Wing blade right. your dowel idea is just a band aid. That's why I use round tubes or rods for the wing joiner. It has the same bending structural properties regardless of the direction of the loading. db RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Thanks for the Hospitality
sure he will get back to you. Gear (The Soaring Junkie) Vera was also kind enough to let me fly his new Organic. Man that thing is light. It fly's a lot like a 2M HLG. It is very responsive and will go up on a gopher fart. I have yet to find one of these gophers that fart on command. Does Slegers or NE Sailplanes carry them? The little varmint might come in handy on contest day! Jody Z RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] vac bagging technique question?
I have some experience with attaching 3 layers of 1.5 oz glass strips to shaped foam LE cores, before bagging. I start out with irregular lengths 3/4 wide strips, going next to 1-1/4 and then to 1/3/4. These are sprayed with 3M77 and progressively attached so as to minimize puckers, bumps, overlaps and gaps. This may involve frequent repositioning. After these strips are down, they are wetted out by brushing on a mix of the bagging epoxy. The epoxy is pressed in well with a plastic strip curled around and drawn along the LE. Prior to adding these strips the mylars are cut, waxed and painted. The cloth layers have been cut and are marked to know where they go and in what order. You want to size the cloth pieces so there is no Kevlar or CF on the LE. Better to stop the larger piece of Kevlar or CF a bit behind the LE and have extra layers of glass in their place to complete the layup. I carefully shape the LE's of the carriers to extend very close to the LE of the cores, but not meet. This is easily controlled by having excess carrier along the fold line at the TE and knowing where you will be positioning the core after the cloth is wetted out. This leaves a place for epoxy to escape at the rear of the cores and leeway in trimming up the TE's forward of the area where the fold is and which often has bad spots. I also wax the outside of the carriers to avoid epoxy sticking to them there. After the epoxy has been spread, any excess cloth beyond the carriers is scissored off. The core is then carefully positioned. Thin tape is applied in a few spots along the LE and all is placed in the bag, surrounded by thick, textured Bounty towel. As the vacuum presses, the excess epoxy is picked up by the Bounty so it does not congregate along the LE and require all that sanding. Out of the bag, the Bounty can be peeled away quite easily and the carriers opened. A long sanding tool is used to touch up the LE. It is always work and pits may appear to be filled and resanded. Touch up painting is needed which requires great care. New paint may not stick to the old which has a wax film residue from bagging on it. New paint may eat into the old and make a terrible mess. Dishwashing detergent can be used to remove the wax. If tape is applied to mask for LE painting, it may lift old paint. It is safer to just lay a balsa sheet down and fog over the edge to paint the LE with the same or a contrasting color. Practice on something else first. After doing your best to make a nice looking LE, remember that you can use some reflective material on the front to strategically cover areas you are not happy with. -- From: happl [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: soaring [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] vac bagging technique question? Date: Tuesday, May 15, 2001 6:12 PM Having watched other people do it; I quickly jump to a conclusion which most likely is wrong. Two things happen in the creation of the leading edge. The leading edge was created originally with sanding. A very long sanding device with a hard back must be used to get a consistent surface and radius without concave points. Similarly a tool like this must be used when finishing the glass layer. Typically we want the leading edge reinforced. Consequently we put extra there. Suggested technique should work very well. Now we are ready for the problems. On the sanding of the glass it is typical to substitute pressure for course fast cutting sandpaper. With fine sandpaper at this stage kit would not be uncommon to be pushing into the glass. My suggestion will create horror in the eyes of most people . Use a sixty grit paint remover grit of one of the better materials. In otherwords flint just will not cut it. Make sure you go lightly . Keep the heat down. It is very easy to create heat with fine paper and haste. If the original long hard back was used to get a good contour before covering then the clean up with the course afterwards should not take all that long. If the original surface was rippled then you will cut through no matter how you do it on the high spots. Now we shall hear how others do it. Rick Date: Tue, 15 May 2001 11:17:17 -0700 From: Marc Webster [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: vac bagging technique question? Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hello all, With the demise of my addiction, I plan to bag another set of wings over the memorial day holiday. I want to try something new and I thought I would run it buy everyone to get some feedback before I bag my wing. I have bagged many wings, and hate all of the sanding that is required of the leading edge. I usually, cut my materials an inch or so larger than my mylars and after I lay the core on the bottom mylar, I fold over the remaining material over the leading edge and onto the top of the core. I then fold over my top skin mylar and the extra inch of material attaches itself to the folded
[RCSE] Need help with JR XF652
I am trying to program this new JR XF652 for vtail, but want all vtail control to be on the right stick. When I followed the instructions in the manual, I ended up with elevator on right stick and rudder on left stick. Is there an easy way to do this all on the right stick? Thanks in advance for any advise. Paul __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Zinged me again...
Well I guess I wasn't supposed to post about carnage, even though it added to the intensity of the fun races. I was told a lot of those planes that went down were only $400 total, and/or homebuilt. I cannot confirm or deny that, but I must pass on the truth. I didn't want to be political. I had a good time, and I post about my own crashes too and don't find them sacred, just spectacular. Whatever. Can't do anything right on this exchange. -Paul RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Highlander/non-foamie choice
I forget the original question, but people are posting opinions on the Highlander so here it goes. I built a Highlander as carefully as I could, I even replaced the coroplast tail with 1/8 inch balsa and I couldn't be happier. Managed to catch a serious thermal the other day with it as well. And that is after some *serious* abuse at my hands. The other thing I like is it can handle a winch. I have heard of too many Spirits dying on the winch, so I am sending my ARF back before I build it. Maybe I will get a kit later and build it for strength on my own. This brings up another question (or questions) of mine. I want to try out RES, two meter and Nostalgia. I am planing on getting a Victory RES for, well, RES and maybe a BOT for Nostalgia (if the current kit is legal). But what is a good 2 meter for someone for a first competition plane? A Kestrel 2M? I want something that can deal with a winch that at least an intermediate flyer can handle. Any RES/2M/Nostalgia recommendations for the rank beginner are welcome. For the short term, the Higlander has done well for me. __ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Auctions - buy the things you want at great prices http://auctions.yahoo.com/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] right turns?Left turns?
Only in the northern hemisphere. :~) -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Monday, May 14, 2001 10:32 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [RCSE] right turns?Left turns? I think Harley hit that one, everything turns left. Old habits are the hardest to break. Bruce, Lefty, Davidson RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Eclipse 7
Welcome to the club! I agree that the VR.1 knob is too sensitive for camber. Haven't found a good way to make it less sensitive. The only suggestion I can come up with is when you set up crow make sure to set channel 6 (flaps) to 100% and then limit throw with EPA for ch 6,7. This will make VR.1 less sensitive relative to the flap stick than leaving EPA at 100% and setting crow/ch 6 to less than 100%. The latest thing I heard from Hitec is that our friendly rep is fighting hard to get sailplane-related issues addressed for software updates. He estimated it will take at least six months as their engineers are working on other things, too. At this point he could not promise anything because our problems do not affect 95% of other users. Reading between the lines, I can't help but wonder - why is it necessary for our rep to fight with his management for us? That's it - we are second class citizens for radio manufacturers! Thomas P.S. Thanks to everybody who responded to my earlier posts about this radio on 5/14/01 3:34 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Got a new Eclipse 7 from Hitec hoping it would be a good full house sailplane radio as they advertised. I read the information on RCSE about launch and reflex settings not using the full TE and I can live with that but I can't get the camber to work right. I can get it to camber OK using the VR1 knob only if it goes only one click but I can't stop the flap travel distance. They will travel way too far. It's OK if you only go one click on the knob but how can you do that while flying. Going back to center I can stop the ailerons from going above the centerline when I return the knob but not the flaps so when you are flying you won't know exactly if the flaps are where they should be. That could be a major problem. I talked to Hitec but Mike was not much help. He did not know much about gliders and glider flying. Help !! before I return the radio back to where I got it because it's not much good for full house gliders otherwise. Don Cleveland Houston, TX RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Dansville Aerotow
Hey scale guys: If the weather holds, and we don't get a solid two days of wet, Jim Blum is hosting the Dansville aerotow meet at the High Hills dedicated scale aerotow field this weekend. The weather models have a 30-40 % chance of showers now, but they expect that to decrease by the weekend. Looks like good cumulus possibilities. check the http://www.sailplanes.com message board for updates. This field is a great aerotow field, privately owned and high atop a mountain. Slope and thermal activity abounds. I will be unveiling the new Pegasus II tow plane at this event. POST by Jim: The Spring aerotow in Dansville NY is scheduled this year for May 19th - 20th. The rain date is the following weekend May 26th-27th. To be safe please call (716)335-6515 (by Thursday). Lodging is available in Dansville: Logan's Inn(Brand new) - (716)335-5840 Travel America - (716)335-2894 Dansville Inn - (716)335-3520 We have powerful towplanes to accomodate any size sailplane. Hope to see you there! John Derstine E-mail; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Scale Soaring: http://www.Geocities.com/scalesoar RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
