[RCSE] New toys New Toys Yeah!!!!
Let's put a positive spin on this for Karlton Hope you find it worthwhikle. Rick From: Karlton Spindle [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Soaring List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: Jack Strother [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: BAD NEWS for me :( Boo Hooo Message-ID: 001d01c10a4a$4c4da860$[EMAIL PROTECTED] Well Multiplex has summoned me to come to Germany for our half year meeting. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Finishing a glass wing??
I was complaining about the non stiffness of my ailerons and asked what could be done about it. I received a reply from the famous or notorious Sal. His response was to finish off those two exposed surfaces and gain a lot in stiffness. He was right. Finishing off that foam does matter. Thankyou again Sal. I simply paint on a layer of West system epoxy then lay on a much wider layer of glass in about 2 ounce. Then I put enough more of epoxy on the surface of the new layer of glass to make sure it is filled at the edges. When it is dry you should have produced a slight bump at each of the two edges of the narrow strip which you can sand from the top and bottom then lightly on the exposed side you had before. This is a very easy finish and produces great results. I normally in addition trying to get the best of both worlds cut this glass at 45 degrees. But this makes the handling while doing the job quite difficult so be patient. Put on the other way the grain probably would end up in the wrong place. The results are strong enough to use poly tape and pull pull on the rudder without it crushing inwards. The stiffness gain on the ailrerons is impressive. The same technique is used for finishing the exposed ends of wings where they butt together. The finish is put on after the joiner is completed. The joiner is inserted with a casting of West System epoxy and light filler as follows for the hardpoints. Now that this edge is finished I cut out the hole area for the hardpoints. Cut from one surface down just to the other area. Then pick out the foam like a dentist doing a good undercutting job. When you are finished; fill with West System finishing epoxy filled with their lightest filler. I usually try to undercut the hole so that it extends against the new surface you have just created. You probably should think in terms of about a three eighths inch cutout extended under the surface to about half or more. After doing this a few times I discovered in some kit reviews in QFI that some manufacturers were beginning to do it this way. Rick PS Like many others I have gotten in the bad habit of replying privately. So how would the rest of you do it differently??. Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 19:00:22 -0700 (PDT) From: Lee Cox [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: soaring mail page [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Finishing a glass wing?? Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] I would like to hear some of the pros and cons about whether or not the edges of the ailerons / flaps back side of wing should be finished or left as open foam. It seems to me that if edges are sealed with (glass-epoxy or?? )it would structurally be a stronger wing and would help to stop any twist. I see a lot of wings unfinished. HELP!!! LEE RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] servos...digital vs analog
The biggest servos I know of are those that keep the modern type of windmill pointing into the wind. They too have problem with deadband logic. To save the motors from constantly adjusting the windmills direction they simply lock up the shaft (by the help of a really big disc brake) till the error between rotor direction and wind becomes too great (there is a time factor, so corrections are not carried out instantly, thus again saving the servo motor. Maybe this could be applied to model airplane servos - mechanical brake locking the surface till the pilot wiggles his sticks? Tord S Eriksson www.tord.nu RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] RCSD question
Are you suggesting that checks do not create a paper trail? Regis -Original Message- From: David A. Malone [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 12:51 PM To: [RCSE} Subject: Re: [RCSE] RCSD question First let me say that the RCSD publisher has the right to keep costs as low as possible. That said I would like to correct a misconception. I accept credit cards in my business and the discount rate (what the CC co charges the merchant) is averages around 2.6%. On $30.00 that would be $.78 per subscription. If one could add another 50 subscribers by accepting a credit card it would make sense just to charge the credit card users another buck. However, then one has created a paper trail that the IRS can examine. Dave Malone Dennis Phelan wrote: Greetings, And the poor publisher doesn't lose the 8% that the card company takes! Dennis Jeez, What's so hard about writing a check and dropping it in an envelope? Cost 0.34 plus check. __ Do You Yahoo!? Get personalized email addresses from Yahoo! Mail http://personal.mail.yahoo.com/ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Plane Recommendations
Bill Johns [EMAIL PROTECTED] Wrote: Subject: Re: [RCSE] Plane Recommendations I fly in Missoula, MT. The closest club I can find is about 3.5 - 4 hours away. I fly fairly often (during the warm months), and frequently have people stop to watch. This winter I plan on building a plane that I can use to give the interested watchers a little stick time. With luck I can get enough people to start a club. Get a foamy, consider a Highlander or one of the other of that type. It will build fast (sorry) but will take numerous crashes and still fly well. Use your extra time to build something for yourself that will wet appetites to move up to. I think a foamy will be the best simply because if someone crashes a built-up plane, it will turn to trash and destroy any self-confidence they have and will chase them away form the sport rather than lure them in. Having a forgiving plane that will allow them to make mistakes and laugh about it later is a Good Thing. Built-up planes are pretty and fly well, but they are fragile. I would recommend a powered foamie, say a Zagi 400 or the Twinstar. This way you can launch quickly and they still can get the feel of things! Glide ratio ain't great, but simpler than a glider in this context, unless you have a very good slope at hand! Tord S Eriksson www.tord.nu RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Alpine Soaring
All, If you haven't registered for the Alpine Soaring event, and you plan to attend please send an e-mail as soon as possible so that we can update our files. We need the best possible head count we can get to provide T-shirts. If you should want to see what the T-shirt looks like send me an e-mail and I'll send a jpeg. BTW, it appears that we will have about 80 pilots attending. We hope to see you there. Kiona Publishing, Inc. / SE Modeler Magazine Wil Byers - Managing Editor P.O. Box 4250 W. Richland, WA 99353 Ph/Fax 509-627-0456 [EMAIL PROTECTED] A HREF=http://www.semodeler.com;www.semodeler.com/A RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
RE: [RCSE] Plane Recommendations
I have to agree with all. I have been teaching new fliers with electrics, like the Graupner Bussard and the Teddy (you have to throttle back and trim the teddy just right - but that's true with them all). I have also found that the Pico Stick works very well too. Can't stall it, flies very slow, is relatively hearty and can be flown in a limited area. You will need ideal weather though (very little or no wind) - which I find most evenings in S. Md. Regis -Original Message- From: Jeff Reid [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]] Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2001 8:42 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [RCSE] Plane Recommendations let an interested watcher fly as a demo. well-built foamy EPP Highlanders Gently Lady weighs more like 26 oz. I admit there's a lot to be said for a bounceable airplane but I think that's for learning landings. There's another issue with interested watcher models, being able to handle hi-g forces from an inexperience flyer. I'd be worried about bad control inputs folding a wing on most floater type models. If it's going to be a built up, get one with a strong spar and/or leading edge sheeting on both top and bottom of wing. Polyhedrals setup with both positive pitch and roll stability are nice, since it takes near deliberate control inputs to get them to continuously lose altitude for any length of time. I have an electric rc-dymond flipper, a small 27 ounce 58 inch wingspan model (light considering 10.5 ounces of this is battery pack [7 1400AE cells] and motor), a very strong 3 piece wing (sheeted on top and bottom). With limited control throws, this model is almost indestructable as long as it's in the air, so I'll let just about anyone fly it as long as it has some altitude. I also mention if they get in trouble to just let go of the stick, since it's very stable. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Uses of old RC gear.
I remember reading an article SOMEWHERE where an old R/C xmitter was converted to a controller for computer flight simulators. It involved removing the guts and using the sticks where the existing pots (I think) to run games. I don't know where I was this. If you have a Futaba/hitec (I think) transmitter with a buggy box port then ripmax do a lead that converts the o/p to one the game port understands Ade RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Re: [soaring] Digest
hi sorry for this but I have tried 5 times to get off this list.. I have followed directions and submitted my address with the code number attached please take me off the list thank you what do I need to do RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Cargo Planes
We just got our FIRST SMALL shipment of Cargo planes in! http://multiplexrc.com/cargo.htm This is the largest back order of NEW NEVER RELEASED planes in Multiplex USA history! We DID NOT GET ENOUGH TO GET ALL BACK ORDERS OUT NOT EVEN 30% of back orders will get filled with this start of Electric plane history. Twin Jets have more on back order but we have had them come in a few shipments, still the back order list for those is growing ever larger every day. Orders will go out FIRST IN, FIRST OUT basis. Dealers will have them soon based on when their orders were placed and if their account it clear to ship. PLEASE DO NOT CALL to see where your order is in line as we will be calling YOU when your order is up to ship. NOTE: The box is large for example from MPX USA to Florida is $38.00 for one! SO you dealers a word to the wise is re-up your NEXT orders to 6 at a shot! Smooth Sailing, Karlton Spindle http://www.MultiplexRC.com RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [RCSE] Flying the trims
see below: Brett Jaffee wrote: Lincoln Ross wrote: No. It doesn't work that way. Consider the case of an Apogee (numbers per design spec) where you are downwind, trying to fight a 4M/s wind to get back to the field, and your best L/D is at 4M/s airspeed. Wouldn't it pay to speed up, even if you came down faster? Unless you like bushwacking of course. No, I don't understand this. L/D is a measure of how far you can go through an airmass with the amount of altitude you have. I don't see how the the wind factors into it. The bottom line is that I want to convert my altitude into a horizontal distance through the air in the most efficient way possible, so I can go as far horizontally through the air as possible. I don't see how the wind factors in. That's fine if you're flying from a balloon. It definitely maximizes distance thru the air, but that air is moving. If you have to make the field you have to go over the ground, as well as thru the air. Read it again. Just to hold still you have to make 4M/s. That amount is subtracted from any speed you are making over the ground. How fast would you row to go upstream in a 2 knot current? It also turns out that if you go faster than your best L/D you will get out of sink faster. Okay, but I'm just talking about dead air, or a constant horizontal wind (however realistic that case may be), as that was the original example. Lift or sink will obvisouly change the situation. Yup. Sorry about that. Brett -- Lincoln Ross RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Re: RES kit
I just completed a Chrysalis, and I don't think I've ever built a kit that contained better balsa. I'm pretty sure that it wasn't an accident either--somebody made sure that all the balsa was super quality. My understanding is that *good* balsa is now pretty expensive. The kit instructions were very complete. Although I have only flown the Chrysalis once, it flew extremely well and indicates lift like crazy. To me, it was worth every bit of $85.00. My only concern about the Chrysalis is that it might be a bit on the delicate side. I tend to beat up on a hand-launch pretty bad. I did manage one minor dork and only did pretty minor damage that was field-repaired in a couple of minutes. The last built-up plane that I constructed (it's been a while) was a sig riser 100. As far as kits go, it's not even in the same league. I'm glad to have the option of planes like the chrysalis. The next step up for me would be a super-light composite HLG -- and they tend to be WAY expensive. I was on the maple leaf web site, and I think their top of the line hlg is running about $450.00. That's definitely the high end of the scale, but I feel like I'm approaching (emphasis on approaching) the performance of some of the high end HLGs at a much lower price. Having said all that, I know that what's expensive to me can be considered quite cheap to others, and vice-versa. At 07:58 AM 07/12/2001 -0500, you wrote: I agree, a $50 kit is a bargain, and a throwback to the '70's. :) The $85-$100 range is a good entry-level price point, I'd guess. At any rate, I doubt that Joe and Don or anyone else in the this business is making a large fortune. --Bill From: Lincoln Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [RCSE] Re: RES kit Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2001 16:16:20 -0400 1. What is this $50 kit? I'm VERY skeptical, and if I'm wrong I want one. 2. I think Joe and Don probably don't want to lose money on the Chrysalis. THat's probably why it costs what it does. They charge what they think they can get, and if it wasn't enough, they probably wouldn't make the kit. Where does it say that we have a right to the output of sweatshops, even for high end hobby stuff? Unless someone can report seeing either one of them in a Rolls, I'll bet that they aren't rolling in dough. And if they were I'd bet it wouldn't have anything to do with DJAerotech. It's also obvious that they go thru a lot of trouble in development, or else they tell some pretty elaborate stories (which I doubt). Now, if they had the sales volume of the Spirit (ugh!), then I'd expect the price to be lower. Obviously, someone thinks $85 is worth it. This is not to say that I know much about the Chrysalis, but things cost money, particularly when made in USA. Besides, it subsidizes all those long technical notes they must spend 1 hour/day writing. And I think they have good karma for improving the state of HLG back a few years ago. What would be a fair price for an Apogee kit, with even less wood and weighing only 4 oz? AL wrote: sonmeone else wrote: I'd recommend the 2M Chrysalis The only problem I have with the 2M Chrysalis is the $85.00 price tag. When I can buy a strong, great flying 100 glider kit for less than $50.00, why does a plane with half the wood in the box cost almost twice as much. I hear that Laser cutting is about the least expensive way to make a kit. No tooling required and have someone else cut the parts. So please, don't tell me that it's because it's Laser cut. If you can tell me real reasons, I might force myself to try one. AL -- Lincoln Ross RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] _ Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] --- Barrett Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED] RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Re: [RCSE] Flying the trims
Okay, didn't read your example carefully the first time. I stand corrected. Lincoln Ross wrote: see below: Brett Jaffee wrote: Lincoln Ross wrote: No. It doesn't work that way. Consider the case of an Apogee (numbers per design spec) where you are downwind, trying to fight a 4M/s wind to get back to the field, and your best L/D is at 4M/s airspeed. Wouldn't it pay to speed up, even if you came down faster? Unless you like bushwacking of course. No, I don't understand this. L/D is a measure of how far you can go through an airmass with the amount of altitude you have. I don't see how the the wind factors into it. The bottom line is that I want to convert my altitude into a horizontal distance through the air in the most efficient way possible, so I can go as far horizontally through the air as possible. I don't see how the wind factors in. That's fine if you're flying from a balloon. It definitely maximizes distance thru the air, but that air is moving. If you have to make the field you have to go over the ground, as well as thru the air. Read it again. Just to hold still you have to make 4M/s. That amount is subtracted from any speed you are making over the ground. How fast would you row to go upstream in a 2 knot current? It also turns out that if you go faster than your best L/D you will get out of sink faster. Okay, but I'm just talking about dead air, or a constant horizontal wind (however realistic that case may be), as that was the original example. Lift or sink will obvisouly change the situation. Yup. Sorry about that. Brett -- Lincoln Ross -- _ Brett Jaffee [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://home.earthlink.net/~jaffee The Unoffical Extra 300 Home Page http://www.bayarea.net/~nathan/extra300 OnTheWay Quake 3 Server Utility http://www.planetquake.com/ontheway _ RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] use of old rc geart
Try the following, I myself have a futaba conquest that I don't use anymore. Found out there a free flight sim with instructions to convert a rc xmtr to computer interface. Looks very easy. The english text is in bablefish' (I guess i'ts a direct conversion from german to english, so sentence structure seems backwards). Have not tried it out myself, would appreiate any feedback on the futaba xmtr interface, maybe someone might even try to convert the bablefish version of the instructions into readable english: Thanks to PSF Member John Vasquez for pointing out this great Free Model Flight Simulator that can be downloaded off the internet. The simulator is called FMS, Flying Model Simulator. Here is the site where you can download this 2.6 MB program. After entering the web site select the English Version. http://simulator.home.pages.de/ Once you install and run it this program type on the Sprache item at the top of the screen and select English. The programs authors are german so by default the commands are in German. There is an english manual at this site: http://www.csd.net/~cgadd/fms/fms_instruct_toc.htm There are instructions on how to build a cheap interface to your own radio or you can use your keyboard or joystick. It is great fun and it comes with lots of planes to try. Check it out. RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News. Send subscribe and unsubscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[RCSE] Brand New Eraser F3j CHEAP!
Well guys it is fire sale time!!! I have 1 NIB Eraser F3j for sale. This plane is Yellow with blue tips and bottoms..very good looking color scheme. the Eraser (or El Camino see it at http://www2.jonction.net/~icare/elcamino.htm). I will let this plane go for $600.00 + shipping ( should be about $25.00 or so in the US). Email me for more information. This is a great deal on this plane...I just have too many planes and need the room ( read as wife says something has got go!) Steve Dworsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
