Re: [RCSE] CF on spruce spars

2006-03-24 Thread Dick Williamson
The Kevlar tow that I used is roughly an eighth inch wide.  The tow 
is basically a bunch of parallel fibers that are not bonded to each 
other.  While wrapping the spar, I have to take a little care to 
spread out the tow and not get twists in it.  Near the center of the 
wing, the wraps should basically be continuous, i. e., touching each 
other.   Less wrapping is needed in the outer sections.  On my 
Majestic I wrapped the entire spar with nearly touching wraps.


Regards,

Dick

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Re: [RCSE] New experiences and questions

2005-10-24 Thread Dick Williamson

Hi Vince,

 A few years back, I became intrigued with high-start launching and 
began to look at how to optimize a launch.  My ruminations have been 
included on the Charles River Radio Controllers web site:


http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.htm

To translate between the table in CRRC article and the tubing
supplied by Mark Mech and NSP, I have created the following table
which I hope survives transmission via email without screwing up the
formatting.  Tubing sizes are listed in order of increasing cross
section.

CrossInsideWall  CRRC  Mech   NSP
section   dia.
(sq. in.) (in.)  (in.)

0.024 1/16   1/16hand launch-  -
0.025 1/83/64 -   -   upstart
0.037 1/81/16 2 meter2 meter -
0.049 3/16   1/16 -  -  M
0.064 1/83/32  - comp 2 meter -
0.074 5/16   1/16-   -   standard
0.098 1/81/8  standard3 meter -
0.101 1/43/32  -  -   L
0.138 1/87/16heavy duty -   -

High starts work nicely, especially with some head wind.  However, 
you need a strong arm to launch a heavy plane.


Regards,

Dick


The end of the soaring season is close here in Ohio,
and the sun was out this morning.  I had previously
test launched my newly acquired 150" Aquila XL off of
a histart made for a 2 meter (wimpy), but I thought
today would be a great chance to try the bigger
hi-start.
Loaded up the car and drove to the club field.  Range
check OK.  Walk WAY down the runway to stake down the
end of the histart.  I have only done a dozen histart
launches in my life, and only 2 in front of anyone
other than my dad and brother, so I am a bit nervous.
I put about 60% of the stretch to try it out, point
the nose at the horizon and give it a heave.  WOW!  I
mostly let it do it's own thing, with very minor
rudder corrections and just a bit of down elevator, it
climbed in a nice arc.  Don't know if that was right,
but it felt good.  Since I had not given it a full
stretch, it ran out of pull before it had more that
about 200 feet of altitude (guess)  I did a lot of
lazy circles (sun hid behind the clouds, and no
thermal activity to be found with my meager skills)
Landing was great, and the next launch was with full
extension of the histart.  Very impressive launch.  I
think that it was nearly over the stake before the
line pulled off the hook.  I played around, going
upwind hunting, but there was no sign of lift, so I
was back down in short order.  4 times in my RC career
I have specked out my birds (Zagi wings and Dads 2
meter electric) so I can't wait to try it with this
majestic sailplane! (plus it is bigger, so specking it
will mean even more altitude!)

Sorry for the novel, but I am stoked.  I know that
this is an ancient design, but I was in heaven.  Now
for the questions.

Our fish scale said I had 25 pounds of pull at full
histart extension.  Is this too much?  Can I try for
more?

Without a zoom launch at the top, a 510 foot histart,
and a mild headwind, am I really about 500 feet in the
air?  (I am trying to come up with real world
estimates of altitude)

Does it sound like I am doing anything wrong or could
do them better?  Our club is mostly nitro, with a
growing electric presence, so there was not much
sailplane guidance available (but a lot of willing
help with the line)

Thanks in advance,
Vince




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Re: [RCSE] Foamie trainer...

2005-08-30 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Foamie trainer...


Hi Les,

I have been a promoter of the EPP Highlander as a great sailplane
trainer.  Following my advice, many beginners in our club,
Charles River Radio Controllers, bought and built Highlanders. 
Some experts at the field tried the plane and complained that it flew
too well for a foamy!  My Highlander has probably been flown by
at least a dozen different people.  Unfortunately, the Highlander
is no longer produced.

As far as I know, the two EPP sailplane trainers on the market
are the 72-in. Gentle Foamy and the 79-in. (2m) Defiant.

http://www.mtntoys.com/
 
http://www.nesail.com/categories.php?subcatID=3

Currently, the Gentle Foamy is listed as "Sold
Out".

There are several Defiants in our club and they have proven to be
good trainers.  The plane flies well.  I estimate that most
of the Defiants have come out slightly under 40 oz.  While heavy
for a 2-m plane, the large wing area still allows the plane to thermal
quite well.  Built-up balsa tail feathes in place of the supplied
Coroplast save some weight while only slightly compromising
durability.  The kit is well designed with one exception. 
The first round of kits had suspect (weak) wing joiners.  Later
kits may have changed this feature.  I recommend the plane.

Dick

Hi all,

have a friend who is just 'getting started'.  The local club
recommended a couple of good trainer planes she would find forgiving
in the training, but she can't find them locally.

I can see why, as I don't think any of these are still offered. 
Makes me wonder why they recommended them.  But, using the power
of THE NET, I told her I'd search and see what I could find.

They planes in question:
Highlander (I seem to recall these are long gone, and very difficult
or impossible to find, particularly new.)

TG-3 (haven't seen one of these in a long time either.

Gentle foamie:  I've never heard of this one.

If anyone has a line of *any* of these foamie kits (particularly nib),
drop me a line if you would.  It would be greatly
appreciated.

(If not...what IS the current foamie
trainer people use for training for td flights?)

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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-315   
FAX:    781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
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Re: [RCSE] Speaking of carbon spars ...

2005-08-23 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Speaking of carbon spars
...


Scott Martin asked:

What's the
best adhesive for affixing carbon strips to wood
spars?

Epoxy works well.  However, be
sure to sand the carbon fiber first.

Dick
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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-315   
FAX:    781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
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Massachusetts Institute of Technology
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Re: [RCSE] canopy tinting

2005-03-10 Thread Dick Williamson
Don,
You asked:
Anybody have a way to tint your canopy w/o warping the plastic?
RIT dye works fine.  The first time I used the dye, I had the water 
too hot and warped the plastic.  The second time, I used a scrap 
piece of plastic for testing.  With a thermometer in the water, I 
kept raising the temperature and sticking in the test piece.  In this 
way, I got an estimate of the temperature at which the plastic 
started to warp.  When I tinted the canopy, I kept the temperature 
below the warping temperature and everything came out fine. 
Periodically, I took the canopy out of the dye solution to judge the 
amounting of tinting.  When it looked right to me, I stopped the 
tinting process.

Dick
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Room C-317   FAX:781-981-0122
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Re: [RCSE] Choosing Stab Sections

2005-02-04 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Choosing Stab
Sections


Hi Adam,

You might consider
Mark Drela's HT series airfoils.  These are designed to have
minimal dead band.

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/drela-airfoilshop/markdrela-ag-ht-airfoils.htm

Dick

Hi folks,

Hoping someone can give me a hand with the particularities of
proper
stab/fin airfoil design. I remember understanding the concepts behind
it
at one point, but I've since forgotten, and would appreciate a
refresher
(the archives for these lists didn't help I'm afraid).

I'm designing a new aerobatic model, and after some investigation
have
decided to try some of the Eppler sections that were presented in
the
March 2001 issue of S&E Modeller. When Dr. Eppler was writing
about the
E175, he said:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/xfoil/files/E175/

"Also, when I calculated the flapped case for the rudder chord of
the
1/3 scale Swift at 50%, I clearly noticed a turbulator is necessary
on
both sides of the section at 35% chord. You must be aware of this
fact,
as I am afraid that the landing control may become very difficult
without the turbulator"

Well, frankly...I don't see it. I tried running a few test cases, and
I
see a marked decrease in the lift/drag ratio with the addition of
the
turbulator. Maybe my Reynolds number is too high? (300K) I've
included
the output I get for the section in flapped condition (6 degrees)
with
and without the turbulators in the following folder:

Could some kind soul explain to me how best to optimize a stab or
fin
airfoil for a particular Re#? I'm not really interested in the
full-flying variety at this point, but am willing to learn anything
new
if you'd like to share those concepts as well.

In a related manner, I've been doing some reading on F3A pattern
models,
and have noticed that even though their manoeuvre speed is about 80
mph,
they tend to truncate the wing airfoils they use so that the wing has
a
thick TE (2-3mm sometimes on a 19" chord). This apparently
results in a
dampening effect much like exponential. When I simulate this, I get
a
slight increase in max lift at a corresponding increase in drag at
low
Cl, but I can't rationalize an "exponential" effect.

I've even heard of flared TE's on F3A rudders, which apparently help
the
models keep a heading on an upline (my guess is that this works much
the
same way as a double gurney flap). Is this a case of an airfoil
actually
needing a turbulator, as Dr. Eppler describes?

Finally, regarding the location of hingelines, my typical approach
in
the past has been to run a variety of flapped conditions using a
single
value for degrees of deflection, and then to choose the case with
the
best lift/drag ratio. If this is different at for the tip and root
of
the stab, I've drawn a line perpendicular to the fuse centerline
and
aligned the hingelines to give me an overall stab planform. Is
this
method sound?

Thanks for any help you can offer,
Adam


Adam Till
Mechanical Engineer
403-270-9200 (ext 154)
403-270-0399 (Fax)
UMA Engineering Ltd.
2540 Kensington Road NW
Calgary AB, Canada T2N 3S3

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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-317   FAX:   
781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
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Massachusetts Institute of Technology
244 Wood Street
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Re: [RCSE] Tailbooms

2005-01-25 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Tailbooms


Mike Fox asked:

Back to
doing some building again. It has been a few years and don't remember
where I got some tailbooms for DLG. I am thinking it is what most
DLG's are using now.
 
Where came
these be purchased?

A source for a variety of high-quality booms is Rick Walba. 
I don't know if he has a supply of DLG booms.  None are listed on
his web site.

[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

http://tailboom.com/

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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-317   FAX:   
781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
244 Wood Street
Lexington, MA 02420-9108
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Re: [RCSE] Carbon fiber reinforced spars

2005-01-24 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Carbon fiber reinforced
spars


Hi Wes,

I am in the process of building a Majestic.  Mark Drela has
provided a series of suggested modifications for the Majestic, one of
which is to add carbon fiber to the spars.  For this 110-in.-span
plane, he recommends tapered carbon fiber for the top of the spar. 
The suggestions are similar to those for the Bubble Dancer. 
Details are available on the Allegro web site.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Allegro-Lite/

 For the Majestic, the prelaminated tapered unidirectional
carbon fiber strips are 0.060-in. thick and 0.5-in. wide at the center
tapering to about 0.014-mils tick and 0.25-in,. wide at the tip. 
I purchased 48-in.-long 0.5-in.-wide strips.  These don't go
quite to the wing tips.  For the last segment of the tips, I used
0.007-in. unidirectional carbon fiber.

The bottom spar cap is under tension and needs only half the
carbon fiber.  For the bottom spar cap, the prelaminated tapered
unidirectional carbon fiber strips are .030-in. thick and 0.5-in. wide
at the center tapering to about 0.007-mils thick and .25-in,. wide at
the tip.

For a 2-m-wingspan plane, all of the thicknesses can be
approximately halved. For one of my 2-m kits, I purchased 48-in.-long
double tapered carbon fiber.  Look at the details for the Allegro
Lite:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/allegrolite2m/markdrela_allegrolite2m.htm

I have used end-grain balsa shear webs
between the spar caps and wrapping with Kevlar tow in a manner similar
to the Allegro construction.  Also, I have used carbon fiber
carry throughs as spar joiners.

Mark Drela has pointed out that the spruce
or basswood spar caps normally supplied with a wooden sailplane kit
add nothing to the strength if carbon fiber is used.  He
recommends substituting hard balsa instead.  What I did was to
cut pieces of hard balsa the same width and thickness of the supplied
spruce spar caps.  Then, lengths and widths of carbon fiber were
cut to match the length and width of the balsa pieces.  Because I
used carbon fiber carry throughs, I sanded slight depressions in the
balsa where the carry throughs would eventually go.  Before
vacuum bagging, I slid pieces of plastic sheet into the depressions so
that the carbon fiber would not be bonded to the balsa in those
areas.   The carbon fiber was vacuum bagged to the balsa
with epoxy.  Lacking vacuum-bagging equipment, a series of
weights could be used to press the pieces together while the epoxy
sets.  After lamination is done, the edges of the carbon fiber
are beveled so that the edges won't cut the Kevlar tow.  I have
also tried using Kevlar thread, but I prefer the tow.

Because the carbon fiber will add
significant thickness to the spar caps, you need to either deepen the
spar-cap notches in the ribs or you need to thin the spar caps. 
I found that the thinning was easy to do.  The balsa spar caps
were laid on the bench with the carbon-fiber side down.  Pieces
of the original spruce spar caps were laid along each side. 
Using the spruce as a sanding stop, I sanded down the thickness of the
laminated spar caps with the sanding bar running transverse to the
strips.  This procedure makes the final laminated spar cap
dimensions exactly equal to those of the supplied spruce spar caps. 
Having done this, the assembly of the wing is just as if the original
spruce spar caps were used.  I used Tite Bond.  CA can be
used, but this adhesive adds weight and is more brittle than
construction with Tite Bond (aliphatic carpenters glue)  CA
really soaks into end-grain balsa.

Regards,

Dick  


Building a new woodie RES and this time I
want to reinforce the top and
bottom spars with carbon fiber. I've been looking over the CST and
Aerospace
Composite Products web sites ending up with more questions than
answers. I
know I should use unidirectional carbon fiber, but what's easier to
use:
tapes or tow? What thicknesses are recommended? I don't have a
vacuum
bagging system, so I'll have to use old fashion phone books to weight
the
stuff while the epoxy dries. I did find
an informational article by Bob
Vixie which helped out a lot, but he didn't talk about thicknesses.
Anyway,
what does everybody recommend out there.

Wes Gibson
AMA 607029
LSF 7533

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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-317   FAX:   
781-981-0122
Lincoln
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Re: [RCSE] Majestic 110" RES from Laser Arts

2005-01-06 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Majestic 110" RES from Laser
Arts


Dan said:

I'm looking to
build a RES ship to fly in our local club contests. While doing a
Google search, I ran across the Majestic 110" RES from Laser
Arts.

Question: has
anyone had any experience with this kit - pros or cons?  Flying
characteristics?


The Majestic is a popular plane in our club and many have
appeared at our RES contests.  The laser cut parts fit together
nicely.  The wing takes a fair amount of work because cap strips
are used on the top and bottom of every rib.  The plane, built
stock, flies quite well.  It penetrates better, but doesn't float
as well as something like a Paragon.  Modifications can help the
performance in several ways.  Mark Drela's list of suggested
modifications is well worth implementing.  They are on the
Allegro web site and in other places.

The supplied fiber glass tail boom has a fair amount of flex. 
Replacing it with a tapered carbon fiber tail boom will provide more
rigidity and also save weight.  The stock plane requires a fair
amount of lead in the nose ( maybe 8 oz.).  The plane can be
lightened a lot by using a carbon fiber boom and making an essentially
new set of tail feathers out of lighter balsa.  Getting rid of
the metal tail mounting structures also helps.

I have seen two Majestics fold their wings on winch launches. 
Mark's suggestions for strengthening the spar should make the wing
nearly bulletproof.

The spoilers are fairly small for a plane this size.  The
spoilers can easily be made longer spanwise.

Yaw stability and rudder authority are improved by using the
larger tail feathers suggested.

Stability and sink while circling are improved by using the
suggested modification of the polyhedral and by adding washout. 
These modifications take no extra work.

Regards,

Dick



 
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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-317   FAX:   
781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
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Re: [RCSE] Winch launching... thanks!

2004-11-24 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Winch launching...
thanks!


Hi Jeff,

I am guessing that you followed the
advice of Anker Berg-Sonne of CRRC.  He wrote up his suggestions
along with video images at:

http://flyesl.com/News-y-Articles/featured_article.asp?FORUM_ID=7&TOPIC_ID=112

Dick

All the negative stuff that gets posted
where (some deserved Roy!) I thought
I post a positive I learned right here.

To the person who posted a few weeks ago, or months, whatever, about
changing
to my left foot for the pedal since I launch right handed. THANK
FRIGGIN
YOU I think he was with the CRRC.

For me winching launching was a frightening experience every single
time.
When launching with my right foot I'd stumble backwards or otherwise
lose
balance 50% of the time. I approached winching each time with
trepidation. I
switch to standing sideways with my left shoe on the pedal and tossing
the
plane almost over my head as it pulls. It works GREAT!

Knock on wood, now launching is no big deal. I just have to work on
throwing
it straight ahead (I tend to toss it to the left - sometimes WAY to
the
left). Really I don't recall your name, but thanks. That article was
a
revelation and shows again, sometimes the net is worth is weight in
gold. :)

Best wishes,


=
---
Jeffrey D. Gortatowsky
La Habra Heights, California

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Dr. Richard C.
Williamson    Phone:  781-981-7857
Room
C-317   FAX:   
781-981-0122
Lincoln
Laboratory   Email:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Massachusetts Institute of Technology
244 Wood Street
Lexington, MA 02420-9108
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Re: [RCSE] Beginner's 2M

2003-11-17 Thread Dick Williamson
Hi Rense,

You said:

I'm looking for a rank beginner's 2M plane for an acquaintance. Has anyone
any experience with the Defiant as advertised by NSP? Any other (low
building) suggestions?
For many years, I have been a strong proponent of the EPP polyhedral 
Highlander as a beginner's plane.  There must be close to a dozen 
Highlanders in our club, the Charles River Radio Controllers.  The 
results have been great.  The plane flies amazingly well and is quite 
rugged.  Unfortunately, the Highlander is no longer being produced.

The Defiant looks to be a close replacement for the Highlander.  Up 
until now, I have only seen a kit.  Two of us in the club will be 
building Defiants over the next few months.  My first reaction to the 
kit is that it is well done.  However, there are a few things that I 
would change.  The joiners at the center and at the two polyhedral 
breaks look like a poor design. The spar caps end up being 
unsupported by shear webs at these crucial breaks.  The two of us 
plan to make full-depth joiners.  In addition, the center joiner 
would benefit from being longer and from some tapering at the ends to 
avoid stress risers.  From my experience with several different kinds 
of planes, most spar breaks occur at the end of the central joiner. 
In addition, we plan to replace the coroplast tail feathers with 
built-up balsa.

I am anxious to see the Defiant fly.  Reports will probably have to 
wait until late winter.

Regards,

Dick
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Dr. Richard C. WilliamsonPhone:  781-981-7857
Room C-317   FAX:781-981-0122
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Re: [RCSE] Blue Hills slope soaring pictures on CRRC picturespages...

2003-08-19 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Blue Hills slope soaring pictures on
CRRC p


Stuart said:

I cannot recall whether there was any
conversation on RCSE about
slope soaring at an inland Massachusetts site - Blue Hills
Reservation. If anyone has soared this site can you let me know a
little bit about how it was?  I used to live directly across from
the
hill and can remember the easy hike up the hill, but that there
were
lots of trees to make the airflow
turbulent.



Perhaps you saw some photos at:

http://www.charlesriverrcpictures.org/

Of the members of the Charles River Radio Controllers, I know
that Ron Weissman [EMAIL PROTECTED] , Derick Veliz
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and Lincoln Ross [EMAIL PROTECTED]
have flown at the Blue Hills.  Perhaps they can help you.

Regards,

Dick

 



Re: [RCSE] Newbie!/Spirit

2002-12-09 Thread Dick Williamson
raqmaninov  wrote:

Hello All,

This forum is great. I'm learning all sorts just by reading!

After years of building my kids 'chuckies' and band powered gliders 
from balsa, I've taken the plunge and bought myself a GreatPlanes 
Spirit(seems to be a good beginners choice)

Did you buy a kit or an ARF.  I have helped a number of club members 
with both kit and ARF 2-m Spirits.  The ARF has two major weak 
points.  The balsa and aluminum wing joiner fails with very little 
force.  Replace the wing joiner with a plywood one.  The stabilizer 
is held on by some bolts to a wood plate on the bottom.  The 
stabilizer comes loose quite easily.  The solution is to just glue 
the stabilizer to the fuselage.  I have seen numerous crashes of ARFs 
from these two types of failures.

If you build the kit, there are several things that you can do to 
improve the Spirit.  These are described at:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/kitmods/dickwilliamson_gpspiritmods.htm

Regards,

Dick
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RE: [RCSE] 3 conductor servo wire 22 ga.

2002-03-21 Thread Dick Williamson

Joedy,

To clarify what Tony is saying, you can make up servo wiring by 
taking individual "wires" and twisting them together.  Each "wire" 
should be made up of many small copper strands surrounding by an 
insulating jacket.  You can get "solid" wire which is a single piece 
of copper surrounded by an insulating jacket.  This type of wire 
tends to fatigue and break more easily than multi-strand wire.  That 
is why the wiring on all of your household widgets is multi-strand.

Once you twist the three "wires" together, go over wiring with a heat 
gun.  This will soften the insulation and "set" the twist in the 
wires.

Dick

===

>Use single strand and wind it w/ your electric drill.  It'll be cheaper and
>you get increased EMI noise rejection for free.
>
>--TR
>Portland, OR
>
>
>-Original Message-
>From: Joedy Drulia [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
>
>Can anyone point me to a source of the typical 3 conductor servo wiring in
>22 ga?
>
>I have found a local source for the 26 ga variety, but not the 22 ga.
>RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send 
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[RCSE] Lost plane beeper for frequency control

2002-02-01 Thread Dick Williamson

The lost plane beeper/alarms are designed to look for incoming 
control signals from a transmitter on the same frequency as the 
receiver in the plane.  If the alarm circuitry is powered, i.e. 
receiver battery is on, but senses an absence of incoming signals, 
the beeper starts sounding.  One way to locate the plane is to 
intermittently turn the transmitter on and off and listen for a 
beeper going on and off.

It would seem that the same circuitry would help avoid a shootdown. 
The procedure would be to turn on the receiver to check the airways 
before you turn on your transmitter (e.g., before launch or before 
ground testing your equipment at the field). With the transmitter 
off, the beeper should sound.  If it does not, that means that there 
are signal pulses coming into the receiver from some other 
transmitter.  Silence would mean that you shouldn't turn on your 
transmitter.  Does anyone use a lost-plane beeper in this mode?  Of 
course, additional frequency control would be required to prevent 
someone else from turning on his same-channel transmitter after you 
are in the air.

Dick
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Re: [RCSE] Hard data on L/D values for models

2002-01-10 Thread Dick Williamson

Whenever a discussion of optimum flight strategy in head winds and 
sink comes up, I go back to an excellent web site that graphically 
ties all of this to drag polars:

http://home.att.net/~jdburch/polar.htm

In a head wind, you do not want to fly at the max L/D, as illustrated 
nicely on this web site.

Dick



>I can add some credibility to these numbers.
>
>Flying at max L/D is great when looking for thermals in relatively still
>air.
>
>However, where flying at best L/D is really, really important is when you
>are trying to return to the field from downwind in a stiff breeze, or a
>howling hurricane.
>
>The problem is that flying at max L/D isn't optimal. Some higher speed is.
>To comprehend this, it is useful to imagine trying to get back in a breeze
>which is exactly your best L/D speed, It isn't difficult to understand that
>you will have zero ground speed and never get home. So best L/D is some
>unknown speed that is higher than max L/D. What that speed is, is totally
>dependent on the specific wind speed, and is one of the most difficult
>things to learn. At the F3J selection trials a couple of years ago I was
>most impressed by the ability of the top pilots ability to come back home
>from way, way downwind in a wind that was really pushing them back. If I had
>a really good feeling for that I would be able to stay in lift much longer
>than I currently dare.
>
>Anker
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Re: [RCSE] Speed 400 Sailplanes - Direct drive or geared?

2002-01-04 Thread Dick Williamson

Ron,

You asked:

>Can someone who is knowledgeable in this area explain why a geared 
>motor is (or can be) more efficient than a direct drive.  If you 
>consider the extra weight of the drive, say 30-35 grams for a good 
>planetary gear box, such as cosmotec or graupner(?), and the extra 
>weight of a larger prop, say 5-10 grams, and factor in the extra 
>drag from the gearbox, is a geared motor really better than a direct 
>drive?

I am also a novice in this area so I picked up Martin Simon's book, 
Model Aircraft Aerodynamics, and read the section on propellers.  The 
starting point is the fact that a motor has a limited range of rpm 
and torque over which it runs efficiently and puts out a high level 
of power.  For a direct-drive propeller, the pitch of the propeller 
has to be matched with the target rpm so as to pull the plane forward 
at the target speed of the airplane.  (The pitch is the distance that 
the propeller slices forward in one rotation.) For a propeller with a 
pitch that is too high, the torque increases, the motor slows down 
and the propeller flails away at the air with poor efficiency.  So 
the first step is to obtain the proper match between the motor, the 
propeller pitch and the speed of the plane.

With the pitch optimized, there is a second consideration. 
Larger-diameter propellers are more efficient as described in the 
book.  The total thrust is given by the area traversed by the 
propeller (a disk with a diameter equal to the length of the 
propeller) multiplied by the pressure differential between the front 
and back of the propeller.  The same thrust can be obtained with 
either a large-diameter propeller with a low pressure difference or a 
small-diameter propeller with a large pressure difference.  However, 
the efficiency of the propeller is directly related to the pressure 
difference.  The smaller pressure difference (larger diameter) gives 
higher efficiency.  High-rpm motors are not well matched to 
large-diameter propellers.  Therefore, the strategy is to allow the 
motor to run at a good rpm while the larger propeller rotates at a 
lower rpm.  This means using a gear box.

Dick
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Re: [RCSE] Glider descent? (spoilerons)

2001-10-30 Thread Dick Williamson

The use of spoilerons is much like the use of upward deflected 
ailerons during crow.  When the neutral position of both ailerons is 
up, as in crow, then a normal aileron input will send one aileron up 
and the other down.  The problem is that the aileron that is 
deflected upward may hit the stops.

One way to help out the situation is to program reverse aileron 
differential when in crow or spoileron mode.  Programmable mixes are 
turned on either with a switch or a motion of the throttle stick 
(that controls the degree of crow or spoileron) past a certain point, 
e.g., 50%.  Once the programmable mixes kick in, reverse differential 
is added.  At maximum crow, the ailerons are set such that they don't 
go further upward when an aileron input is given.  However, the 
ailerons go down to the neutral position for maximum aileron throw at 
maximum crow.  This way, one wing stays braked while the other wing 
tip (the one with the downward traveling aileron) speeds up.  In 
addition, the plane rolls.

Dick

=


>Ade wrote:
>>
>
>>  If you hold full aileron in then open the brakes the "up aileron" goes up..
>>  then stops at only part spoiler.. the "down" aileron then keeps going up
>>  until you are only slightly short of the full up aileron.
>
>Well, yes it does still work proportionally.
>
>>  If I reduced the amount of spoiler then I got more aileron but less braking.
>>  The Multiplex works quite differently so I do get as much down movement with
>>  the brakes deployed as I do without them.
>
>I see.  I just never had a problem with that on the planes I using 
>spolieron on.  I always had very good roll control.  I suppose on 
>the 8U I could just add in a 1 directional mix that would move the 
>ailerons more downward when the spoilerons were activated, but I 
>haven't had the need for it.
>
>Brett
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[RCSE] Ezone (was ...newbie yet)

2001-10-29 Thread Dick Williamson

Andy Roberts asked:

>what is the ezone?

It is an on-line magazine devoted to electric-powered flight:

http://www.ezonemag.com/

Dick
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[RCSE] Re: Electra (was ...newbie yet)

2001-10-26 Thread Dick Williamson

There is already a review of the Electra on the Ezone.  The reviewer 
stated what almost every flyer has noticed, namely, the small 
propeller and direct drive are a bad combination.  The plane has a 
hard time climbing at all.  A larger geared folding propeller are 
needed for this plane.

Dick

=

>- Original Message -
>From: "Andy Roberts" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 3:56 PM
>Subject: [RCSE] Not even a newbie yet
>
>
>>  I always hate a question with what is the best so I will try a little
>better
>>  question.
>>
>>  I have yet to fly a glider, I have gotten my transmitter so I'm ready to
>>  choose a plane.
>>  Looking for something that ends up close to $100 since I have a feeling I
>>  may need
>>  to take a rake with me for the first month or so.
>>
>>  Would you recommend an electric sailplane as a first plane or using a
>>  highstart.
>>  I live in Tallahassee Fla. So slope flying is out.
>>  RCSE-List facilities provided by Model Airplane News.  Send "subscribe"
>and "unsubscribe" requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>Hi, try an electric Electra from Goldburg. I'm writing a column on the ezone
>on just this subject.
>
>
>Ric Vaughn
>Marietta, Ga.
>
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[RCSE] On-line resources for airfoil information

2001-10-03 Thread Dick Williamson

Joel,

This is a copy of a message that I sent to someone via RCSE.  Having 
gone through the trouble of assembling this list of sites, it might 
be useful to put these sites in the Model Design Section of the CRRC 
web site.

For on-line resources, one place is to start is the NASA site that 
covers aerodynamics at the high-school level:

http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/Other_Groups/K-12/airplane/listing.html

An explanation of polars and how they affect flight performance, 
especially in a wind is at:

http://home.att.net/~jdburch/polar.htm

Martin Hepperle has a nice site.  Especially see the section on Model 
Aerodynamics:

http://members.tripod.de/MartinHepperle/Airfoils/

Performance Analysis of a Family of R/C Thermal Sailplanes
http://www.rc-soar.com/tech/perfanal.htm

A neat way to calculate the performance of airfoils and sailplanes:

>http://eiss.cnde.iastate.edu/calcs/frames.shtml


Regards,

Dick
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[RCSE] On-line resources for airfoil information

2001-10-03 Thread Dick Williamson

I recommend Martin Simon's book, "Model Aircraft Aerodynamics",

Some of the following sites and comments are copied from an old 
message from R. J. Steinhaus.  For on-line resources, one place is to 
start is the NASA site that covers aerodynamics at the high-school 
level:

http://www.lerc.nasa.gov/Other_Groups/K-12/airplane/listing.html

An explanation of polars and how they affect flight performance, 
especially in a wind is at:

http://home.att.net/~jdburch/polar.htm

Martin Hepperle has a nice site.  Especially see the section on Model 
Aerodynamics:

http://members.tripod.de/MartinHepperle/Airfoils/

Performance Analysis of a Family of R/C Thermal Sailplanes
http://www.rc-soar.com/tech/perfanal.htm

Glider Design Web Source
http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles_modeldesign.htm
(The Charlesriver R/C web page includes several of the Mark Drela 
example design gliders.
Drela's designs are very excellent and advanced and include a lot of 
supplemental engineering information difficult to come by from other 
sources.)

Another site mentioned earlier:

>http://eiss.cnde.iastate.edu/calcs/frames.shtml
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Fwd: [RCSE] Dynamic Soaring anthology

2001-09-21 Thread Dick Williamson

I think it was James Deck who asked:

>  A young friend of mine, impressed by viewing some of my videos, has
>  decided to make a presentation on DS for extra credit in her high school
>  honors physics class.  I'm providing her with good footage from the videos
>  and she has gathered good background material for her talk.  She likes John
>  Roe's explanation (even the non-honors students can understand it) and is
>  almost ready but has one question that I couldn't answer.  She'd like to
>  tell her class the maximum velocity theoretically attainable by a sailplane
>  specifically designed for DS (she thinks the "tech-heads" would really like
>  that).  Can anyone give me some educated prognostications she can use?

I saved an earlier message on RCSE that may help answer her question.

Regards,

Dick




>Reply-To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>From: "Bill Swingle" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "RCSE Soaring" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: [RCSE] Dynamic Soaring anthology
>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 13:07:33 -0800
>
>I've saved several of the RCSE posts from when Joe Wurts first started
>mentioning DS. I found it fun to watch the topic evolve over the course of the
>discussions. I've included some of the posts below. If possible, try to get
>your hands on one of the video's John Roe sold for the F3B fund raiser. The
>video explains it in seconds.
>
>Bill Swingle
>[EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Pleasanton, CA
>
>--
>From: Joe  Wurts
>Date: 28 May 96 02:35:19 EDT
>Subject: Dynamic Soaring
>
>For quite a long time I've heard about "dynamic soaring", but have almost
>never really used it in any operational sense while flying rc gliders.  In
>fact, I've kind of filed it under the Holy Grail category. Just one of those
>things that you read about.  But I've now had  a bit of practical experience
>with it.
>
>One of the slopes that I have been flying at has a very pronounced "razor
>back" to it (Parker Mountain near Acton CA).  What is really neat about it is
>that the air behind the hill is completely separated. That is, it can be
>blowing 25 mph on the face, and behind the hill, it is almost calm and
>sometimes even blowing softly in the opposite direction.  It turns out that
>this is an absolutely perfect set-up for dynamic soaring.  All you have to do
>is fly straight down-wind over the hill into the calm air and turn around.  If
>you want, when you  come back over the upwind face, turn around and repeat.
>With  each turn, you get an amazing boost in the energy of the glider. The
>first time I really played with this was with my Floyd, and on the second
>go-around I fluttered the wings.  The plane will take an extended vertical
>dive without any possibility of flutter, so I was able to get it to above the
>terminal velocity of the glider in horizontal flight!!!
>
>One thing that is especially wild is when the wind dies down a bit, and you
>can just stay up in the normal lift in minimum sink mode. Start doing the
>orbiting for the dynamic soaring and you can get up to about three times the
>speed that you can when you just fly in the normal slope lift.  Wild stuff.
>What really gets entertaining is when you make a mistake behind the hill.  The
>air is a bit  turbulent, and occasionally I miss the air (read: smite the
>earth). This is where a good foamie comes in handy.  I woulda never really
>investigated this phenomena without a crash-proof plane.
>
>If your slope has separated air behind the hill, and you do not mind
>occasionally crashing while you learn a new trick, give this a try. Caution,
>I'd recommend trying this maneuver out sometime when you have the hill to
>yourself.  It takes a little getting used to... And a hint, the lower you go
>on the downwind side, the better off you are (more delta-vee typically).
>
>Joe Wurts
>
>-
>From: Joe  Wurts <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 31 May 96 01:09:58 EDT
>Subject: RE: dynamic soaring
>
>>>  With each turn, you get an amazing boost in the energy of >the glider.
>>"Dynamic soaring"--- is this what seabirds do over ocean >chop/swell? Where
>is
>>the extra energy coming from (are you sure there is any?!)? >Using gravity to
>>pick up more ground speed while in the dead zone with less >headwind=lower
>drag?
>
>The energy increase in dynamic soaring is due to flying into a airmass that
>gives you a change in airspeed "free" of charge.  Lets go through an example
>here. Lets assume a 25 mph wind on a slope, with the backside completely calm
>(I've flown at slopes where the wind on the backside is blowing towards the
>top at 1/2-2/3 of windspeed, but we will use the worse case above).  I turn
>downwind with 25mph airspeed, and with the windspeed, I get a 50 mph
>groundspeed.  I then enter the calm air, and with the 50 mph gorundspeed, I
>now have a 50 mph airspeed as well.  I turn around, and fly into the active
>wind on top/in front of the hill with this 50 mph gr

Re: [RCSE] Book on programming computer radios

2001-08-14 Thread Dick Williamson

J S,

You said:

>Due to a severe case of CRS (can't remember sh**), does any one know 
>where I saw a listing for a book on programing computer radios? J S 
>Fleming


What you are looking for is one or more books by Don Edberg.  See his web site:

http://www.flash.net/~dynamic3/

There are four books.  The first is a general one on programming 
computer radio systems.  A second is on the Futaba Super 7.  Another 
on the Futaba 8U radios has been invaluable to me.  A fourth book on 
the new Futaba 9Z will appear soon.

Dick

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Re: [RCSE] high start & turnaround

2001-06-04 Thread Dick Williamson

Ed,

I looked at the use of a turnaround with a high start and decided 
that it was not a good idea.  Indeed, the turnaround would eliminate 
the weight of the rubber.  However, an energy calculation indicates 
that the energy used to lift up the rubber with a conventional high 
start is a small fraction of the energy used to lift up the plane.

If you use a high start with a turn around, there is the obvious 
problem of wear and drag on the rubber as it runs along the ground.

I also looked at how to optimize a high start.  My thoughts for a 
conventional high start can be seen at:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.htm

I went through a similar calculation for a high start with a turn 
around.  The optimization assumes a fixed maximum length of the 
flying field.  The optimization involves choosing the best length of 
tubing.  If the tubing is long, more energy can be stored.  If the 
tubing is short, a higher launch height can be reached before the 
high start pulls the plane down.  When the optimization is done (on 
paper), the maximum launch height is very similar for a conventional 
high start and a high start with turn around.

There is a third configuration which does look quite nice on paper. 
In this configuration, a traveling pulley is used on the downwind end 
of the tubing.  The line runs from a stake upwind to the pulley, 
through the pulley and back downwind to the plane.  The tubing used 
is twice the cross section of the tubing that would be used in a 
conventional high start.  This choice provides the same peak force on 
the plane.  With this configuration, the calculation indicates a 
launch height about 40% higher than that for a conventional high 
start.  I may try this some day.

Dick


>Has anyone experimented with using a turnaround with a highstart.  The idea
>would be to eliminate the weight of the rubber by keeping it on the ground
>and using the spring action of the tubing but in a different fashion than
>most people use their highstart.
>
>In theory it seems like it should work better than the traditional way of
>using a highstart for launching but since I have not seen others use this
>sort of setup I thought I must be missing something.
>
>I would appreciate hearing from anyone that has actually tried this or know
>what results were achieved by others when they did the same.  I know this
>most certainly is not a new idea but since I have not tried it yet I thought
>I'd draw on the experiences of others that have.
>Ed
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Re: [RCSE] Upstart stretch?

2001-02-12 Thread Dick Williamson

Dave,

You said:

>Using a 50 ft piece of rubber and some nylon line (50 ft ?) to create an
>upstart (or mini-hi-start), what is the normal max stretch allowed.  I heard
>3 to 1.  Is that 100 ft of stretch making the final length of  the rubber
>150 ft or is the stretch itself 3 to 1 making the stretch 150 ft and the
>final length of the rubber 200'.


Perhaps the article:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.htm

might provide some insight concerning your question.

Also, Rich Hollyday's web site includes some data on force versus 
distance for surgical tubing:

http://www.hollyday.com/rubberdata.htm

The tubing stretches rather benignly out to 3.5 times, i.e., a 
100-foot piece of surgical tubing stretched by 350 feet out to a 
total length of 450 feet.  I regularly stretch my high starts to at 
least 3 times.

Regards,

Dick
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Re: [RCSE] servo wire

2001-01-25 Thread Dick Williamson

Larry,

I bought some three-strand twisted wire from FMA.

I also made up some myself at minimal expense.  I bought wire of the 
appropriate gauge, fineness of inner strands, insulator thickness and 
color, etc.  I then took about 10 foot sections of each color, tied 
them together in knot at one end and then clamped the knot in a vise. 
The other ends were put in a drill which put the desired twist in the 
wire.  To set the twist, I then went down then length of twisted 
leads with a heat gun.

Dick



>I want to get some high quality, three strand, twisted wire for a wing servo
>harness, does anyone have a source.
>
>Larry Scaramella
>5479 Pacifica Drive
>La Jolla, CA 92037
>
>(858) 581-3422
>(619) 807-1653 cell
>
>www.mauioceanfrontrental.com
>
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Re: [RCSE] Recommend a hi-start?

2001-01-12 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Recommend a
hi-start?


Dean,

You said:


My son and
I are new to RC.  We have a 2M Spirit and we will be learning to
fly with the help of the local club.  We want to get a hi-start
as the flying field is some distance from our house and we hate
risking going over there and not having a means to
launch.
 
So...
I'm looking for recommendations for hi-starts for the 2M class
airship.


Reading the messages on RCSE, you got some good advice,
especially from
Gordon Cottrill.  I will add a couple of things.

The plastic electrical reels are exactly what to use.  If
you buy a Pinnacle high start, the supplied reel is the same as what
you can get at Home Depot or similar hardware places

Visibility of the tow line can be an important factor in finding
your line on the ground.  What you want is some neon colored
braided nylon line.  I have purchased some neon yellow stuff
called mason's line.  Pinnacle high starts come with a bright
orange line.  Standard white line will soon become the same
brownish gray color as the ground and will be so perfectly
camouflaged that you have a hard time finding the line.

The size of the rubber tubing is a major variable.  For
some insight on what size to get, look at our web site:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.htm

The "two meter" tubing is a little weak for a Spirit,
but will work OK.  I have a high start with exactly that tubing
from Rich Hollyday.  The "standard" tubing gives a
robust launch for a Spirit and is a good "all-around"
tubing.

Dick

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RE: [RCSE] zagi

2000-12-27 Thread Dick Williamson

Stefan,

The usual sequence is to spray 3M77 on the EPP surface that you are 
about to cover.  Don't spray the other surfaces until you are ready 
to cover.  If you spray everything in the beginning, everything on 
your workbench will end up stuck to the 3M77 coated surfaces.  After 
spraying that one surface, put on the strapping tape.  Sanding the 
strapping tape is optional, but it does help the adherence of the 
covering.  After putting on the strapping tape (and possibly sanding 
it) spray once again with 3M77.  You only need to spray the tape, but 
you will inevitably end up spraying most of the surface.  Then apply 
the Ultracote with an iron.

Repeat with the other surfaces to be covered.  While doing so, try 
not to get too much dust and junk in the 3M77 covered surfaces.  When 
you are done with the covering on all surfaces, wipe off all of the 
3M77 overspray on the Ultracote using Goo Gone.  Finally, take out 
the remaining wrinkles and shrink the covering with a heat gun.

The 3M77 softens with heat so that there is no problem with shrinking 
the covering.  In fact, if you ever need to remove the Ultracote or 
strapping tape, use a heat gun to soften the 3M77 and you can readily 
peel off the Ultracote or tape.  In the same vein, be careful when 
using the heat gun where the Ultracote has been stretched around 
curves or where the Ultracote is overlapped.

Dick



>I still have a Zage EPP lying around, that I'll start building after my
>Highlander, but since it are both foamies:
>
>>I always cover my foamies with Oracover/Ultracover...
>>Sand the strapping tape good and put on a good coat of 3M 77 I use about
>3/4 heat setting >on the iron.  Tack down the top and bottom completly
>before you go for the smooth finish.
>>lay the wing in the beds and iron/heat gun until it's nice and tight...
>
>Do you put a coat of 3M77 only on the strapping tape, or only at the places
>you'll tack it down, or everywhere ? If there's 3M77 everywhere, it seems
>hard to stretch to me, but I've never tried it (I used the _red_ tape that
>came with my Zagi 400 on that one, didn't know then it could be done with
>Oracover ..)
>
>Stefan.
>
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Re: [RCSE] Paragon

2000-11-20 Thread Dick Williamson
Title: Re: [RCSE] Paragon


Lee,

If you take pains to keep the tail light and use the best
light-weighting practice for construction, the balanced Paragon may
come out close to 50 oz.  I agree with Stan Myers.  At
around 50 oz., the plane is too light to fly well.  The plane is
so slow that it is hard to search around for thermals.  Also,
you better not let it get downwind in anything other than a gentle
breeze.

I built my Paragon with some emphasis on added strength. 
To balance it out, I used a 1200-mAh battery and still needed 8 oz.
of lead in the nose.  The balanced plane came out at about 64
oz.  Even at this weight, I often add 8 to 16 oz. of
ballast.

Dick

===

I Need Advice.. I'm building a 118"
Paragon (by Pierce Aero Company) If I build it per plans how much
weight is required to balance CG..    Lee mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]

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[RCSE] Definition of decalage

2000-10-23 Thread Dick Williamson

The Oxford English Dictionary quotes earlier aviation publications:

Decalage, the difference in angle of incidence between any two 
distinct airfoils on an aeroplane; e.g., the main plane and the tail; 
or more usually between the chords of the upper and lower planes of a 
biplane. (from a 1917 publication).

Decalage, The term aerodynamic decalage.. defined as the angle that 
the no lift angle of the upper plane makes with the no lift angle of 
the lower plane, positive when the upper plane is at greater 
incidence than the lower.(from a 1933 publication).

While these earlier definitions were oriented towards biplanes, they 
include the more modern usage associated with conventional 
single-wing airplanes.  Today, the usual definition of decalage is 
the angle that the no-lift angle of the wing   makes with the no-lift 
angle of the tail (the combination of stabilizer and elevator, or the 
equivalent for a V tail).  The decalage is positive when the wing is 
at greater incidence than the tail.  Positive decalage implies that 
the wing lift is upward while the tail lift is downward.
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[RCSE] RES Contest, Sudbury, MA July 1-2

2000-06-15 Thread Dick Williamson

The Charles River Radio Controllers club is holding its third annual
Rudder-Elevator-Spoiler RES thermal-duration contest at Davis Field in
Sudbury, MA on the weekend of July 1-2.  There will be two classes, 2
meter and unlimited.

Pictures from last year's event may be viewed on the club web site at:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/media/1999/9907crrc_rescontest.htm

For details on the RES contest, see the events calendar:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/contestinfo/contest_00res.htm

For directions to Davis Field, see:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/fields_davis.htm


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Re: [RCSE] Flying the Cape- HELP

2000-03-15 Thread Dick Williamson

Scobie,

Cape Cod soaring sites are well covered in a summary prepared  by Helmut
Lelke of the Charles River Radio Controllers.  His excellent summary is on
our club web site at:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/fields_capecodslopes.htm

One of the favorite places for slopers to stay is the Seascape Motel
because of the slope right there.

The CRRC web site has links to local weather and wind info.

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/links_weather.htm

The weather in May is often windy with warm weather winds from the
southwest and colder highs providing breezes from the Northwest.  If you
are lucky, the winds will come straight out of the west and allowing
soaring at the best sites.  A rare event is wind from the east which allows
sloping off the cliffs on the Atlantic side of the outer Cape.

Enjoy your trip.

Dick



>Hey all you East Coast slopers out there...
>
>I have a trip coming up in the first week of May that will get me some time
>at the Cape with my brother who is also a sloper in the early stages of
>addiction. I have heard that cape cod has some good sloping to offer.
>
>I would really appreciate information about how to best take advantage of
>the flying that the cape has to offer, given a couple of days or three.
>
>Useful to me would be:
>
>-site maps, descriptions, and directions
>-links for the most useful weather/wind information, and the seasonal trends
>for early May.
>-food and lodging tips are always welcome, of course, but not so important,
>unless you knowabout some kind of sandwich I just gotta have. I live to
>find the perfect sandwich.
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Lift,
>Scobie in Seattle
>m


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[RCSE] Jeff Reid's Dove questions, long

2000-02-10 Thread Dick Williamson

My apologies to the list for this long message, but Jeff's email address
doesn't seem to work.

Jeff asked:

>What do you think of the dove?

I have the Dove I, not the Dove II.  The Dove I looks like a scaled-down
open-class composite plane.  The wings taper down near the tips.  Everyone
comments that it is a very nice looking plane.  This is probably not
optimum for a 2-m plane where a wider chord is more efficient at low
Reynolds number.  The Dove II has a wider chord near the tips and more wing
area.  It probably flies better.  That being said, I have greatly enjoyed
my Dove I, my first full-house plane.
==

>Is the weight listed at www.nesail.com for the Dove II actual flying
>weight (26 ounces seems light for a 2-meter glider with 6 micro servos,
>receiver and 600-mAh receiver pack)?

My Dove I came out at 26-oz with 6 microservos and a battery around 500
mAh.  The fuselage is very narrow so fitting everything in was a challenge.
Instead of the "special" battery pack sold by NSP, I bought a pack in a
"stick" configuration, i.e., four batteries end to end.  This pack fits
nicely along the bottom of the fuselage with the front end far up into the
nose.  The small receiver is not hard mounted, but rather it sits loose
above the battery.  Before choosing a receiver and battery pack, I suggest
that you check out the geometry so everything fits and balances.  I only
needed a small amount of lead in the nose to balance the plane.


>Since the listed torque outputs seems close, what would be the pros/cons
>of using all Hitec HS81MG versus the suggested five HS85BB and the one
>HS85MG? (HS81MG's are a bit lighter and faster, but I would assume
>that unless you're using gyros, that servo speed is not much of an
>issue).

I used 6 microservos similar to the HS80.  So far, I have stripped only one
gear set.  Two HS81MG servos might be better for the flaps.  Being a
high-wing plane with fairly narrow flaps, the tendency to hit the ground on
landings is less than for many other full-house planes.
===

>How strong is the wing on the Dove II? Can it handle a hi-start with the
>3/16 inner 5/16 outer diameter tubing? (I use 50 feet of tubing, 200
>feet of monofilament fishing line).

The wing appears to be quite strong.  I wouldn't try zoom launches on a
winch, but you shouldn't have a problem with a high start.  Your high start
is probably too weak for a good launch with the Dove.  I have launched my
Dove on a much stronger high start and into a strong wind without any
problems.  For a discussion of what size high start you need, and my
experience with the Dove I, see:

http://www.charlesriverrc.org/articles/design/dickwilliamson_histartphysics.htm

I did have problems with the wing tips breaking off at the polyhedral
joint.  A couple of strips of fiber glass over the joint solved this.
Also, the two-piece wing gave me some grief, so I permanently joined the
wing halves and fiberglassed the joint.  I think that the Dove II comes
with a one-piece wing

On the Dove I, the rear wing hold down is two nylon bolts that go through
the very thin rear part of the wing.  This part of the wing broke easily
whenever the wing tips hit on a landing.  I moved the rear mounting point
forward to a beefier part of the wing and eliminated the problem only to
encounter another.  The fiberglass fuselage would crack around the mounting
points when the tips hit.  My final solution has worked very well.  I use a
single hold-down bolt and line the wing saddle and underside of wing with
rubber and sand paper so that the wing is quite secure when flying, but can
rotate if a tip hits the ground.  This solution was inspired by observing
the construction of a Mantis.
=

>How strong is the fuse on the Dove II...do the 2-meters fly in
>contest where skegs and "dork" landings are used? Is the Dove this
>type of contest glider?

The fuselage seems quite strong with the exception of the wing-mounting
issue discussed above.  I haven't flown the plane in a contest, but it
would probably do quite well in light winds.
==

>Last Dove question...the Dove is pretty light... what kind
>of winds can it handle? Would occasional slope usage be risky
>for this model (local slope winds range from 8 to 25mph, but
>10 to 15mph is the normal range).

Despite its light weight, the plane flies reasonably fast so it can handle
reasonable winds.  Winds up to 15 mph are probably OK.  The narrow fuselage
and wing-mounting design make it difficult to add ballast for windier
conditions.  I would worry about crash landing the plane in aggressive
slope situations.

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Re: [RCSE] EPP "floaters" (?)

2000-02-09 Thread Dick Williamson

Paul Koissner asked:

>I'm thinkiing of getting a floater for my nephew this summer.
>Normally I think WindStar or Gentle Lady, but now I'm seeing EPP
>floaters with DiHedtral.
>
>I'm gonna go out on a limb here and venture a guess that the EPP
>floaters don't float as well as the built ups, trading off durability
>for floatability.

>What's the scoop?

=

A 2-m MAD Highlander is a great EPP polyhedral.  It weighs nearly the same
and flies about as well as my 2-m Spirit.  EPP is not as stable as balsa so
I have to periodically check and correct for wing twist on the Highlander.
Durability is great!

Dick

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Re: [RCSE] First Hand Catch Glider - part 2

2000-02-09 Thread Dick Williamson

Jeff Reid said:

>By better performance, I just meant sink and glide ratio, not
>more speed. The Dove II at www.nesail.com sailplanes 2 meter
>section is the type of glider I might consider... it would
>be a better TD type glider, and allow me to learn how to
>hand catch (assuming with flaps deployed it flies slow).
>
>Or I may just end up getting a true HLG sized glider.



Jeff,

I would recommend a true HLG.  I have a Dove I which will slow down with
the flaps, but I don't usually try to hand catch it.  When I fly my HLG
Chrysalis, the normal flight speed is fairly low and the plane doesn't
weigh much.  That makes hand catching a joy.

Dick

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Re: [RCSE] Aileron/Rudder mixing

2000-02-03 Thread Dick Williamson

Rodger,

You asked,

>When using A/R mixing, can you still use rudder independently?
>also I have a futaba 6 xa, not with specific sailplane programsbut
>programmable...for example if I wanted "Crow" for landing, would it still be
>possible? during crow, how are ailerons functioning? Are they full up and
>flaps full down, and are you controlling yaw and roll with rudder alone?

=

I have a Futaba 8UAF, so I can't intelligently comment on what you can do
with the 6XA.  "Crow" or "Butterfly" is available on the 8UAF.  Don
Edberg's book on the 8-channel radios describes how to do the set up and
why the controls need to be set up certain ways.  He may also have
suggestions on the 6XA.

With A/R mixing, the right stick gives the programmed amount of rudder
coupling.  The left stick can be used to add to the input giving by the
right stick.  Thus, more (or less rudder) can be added by manipulating the
left stick in addition to the right stick.  Note: when you have trims,
along with multiple switches and levers manipulating a control surface
through programmable mixes, the effects of the several different inputs is
additive.  They don't override each other

There are special considerations when the plane is in crow.  Because the
plane is moving slowly, the ailerons are not as effective.  You need to
rely more on rudder control.  On the 8UAF, the mixes can be set up such
that the "throttle" stick which controls the amount of crow is linked so as
to provide extra A/R mixing. Once the throttle is beyond about half way,
the A/R mixing is increased.

When in crow, the ailerons go up as the throttle stick is moved, and the
flaps go down.  The maximum deflection (trim position) for the ailerons is
in the range of 20 deg. The maximum flap deflection is close to 90 deg.
When the ailerons are raised, furthering raising of an aileron by using the
right stick may not be possible without hitting the stops.  Also, the
interaction of ailerons and yaw can be reversed at large deflections.  The
strategy with the 8UAF is to use programmable mixes such that an aileron is
not allowed to rise when there is a lot of crow.  Only the downward going
aileron moves with the right stick.  When the aileron is lowered, drag is
reduced and that side of the wing speeds up.  This is the opposite of the
normal adverse yaw when not in crow.  So both ailerons and rudder are
controlling yaw, but you rely mostly on rudder at low speeds.

Regards,

Dick

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Re: [RCSE] MAD Highlander?

1999-11-09 Thread Dick Williamson

>Where does one get the MAD Highlander?
>Tom

The web site is:

http://www.madaircraft.com/index.html

Regards,

Dick

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