Re: [RCSE] 12V Bench Power Supply

2005-09-02 Thread Richard Hallett

You may not have a big enough load on the 5v supply.

Sounds dumb.

All regulation is done on the 5v supply and if you do not draw enough 
current on the 5v supply it will probably shut down.


And all you wanted was 12v.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME

Dan Kitching wrote:
I'm using a converted ATX power supply as well and it's great, with one 
exception. My Orbit Pro charger has a power switch, and when I turn it 
on the power supply shuts down. I've never opened it up, but imagine it 
might have a largish capacitor that sucks a largish amount of current 
when first turned on. Maybe the power supply sees this current and shuts 
off to protect itself.


Weird, but my other chargers, including a GP Triton work great on this 
power supply.


 Dan

David Register wrote:

A newbie here in town borrowed one of my converted PC power supplies 
for charging his electric and then started looking for a new PC supply 
of his own. He found a really good deal which I've converted and it 
works very well. In our area, used PC supplies are getting harder to 
find (for free) and it pains me to pay $20 for a used supply.


This conversion is very easy (see Red's Battery Clinic article at 
http://www.rcbatteryclinic.com/) and follows the ATX conversion with 
the exception that you only need to ground the PS-On wire to make the 
supply work properly. No need for the 'Power Good' line. On this one 
the PS-On wire was green on the motherboard connector but it's clearly 
marked on the circuit board inside the case.


Supply is a 250W unit from Tiger Direct. Cost is $15 +S/H. Add a 
couple of bucks and a little sawing on the case to fit a banana plug 
receptacle, clip and shield a few wires and you're done. I've been 
running this one for a few days on GP, Sirius AstroFlight and FMA 
chargers for NICd, NiMH and LiPos (Tx, Rx and motor packs) with no 
problems. Haven't pushed current too hard (couple of amps) but the 
supply is rated for 10A so it will probably deliver 8 or so.


Just FYI for those looking for an easy way to get 12V bench power for 
your field chargers.


- Dave R
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Re: [RCSE] CF on spruce spars

2005-08-20 Thread Richard Hallett
The carbon is by far superior.  The carbon goes on the outside.  The 
further to the outside the better.  I believe the strength quadruples 
with a doubling of the thickness so the placing of the carbon makes 
quite a difference.  After putting on the carbon the spruce no longer is 
that important except to keep it straight etc.


Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
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[RCSE] solenoids

2005-08-18 Thread Richard Hallett
To dramatically extend the lives of the cheap units make sure you mount 
them so gravity assists.


Rick

Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
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[RCSE] batteries

2005-06-26 Thread Richard Hallett

the days are getting shorter and winter is coming on ...

Eddie the Eagle
in sunny South Australia

To this my wife says thank goodness particularly since yesterday we 
exceeded the long term record for the day by two degrees.


But my batteries are getting tired with these longer opportunities that 
are getting shorter.


Question.  How many stalled F3B launches can be made on your F3B 
battery?  So what is your battery size and how many launches?  I may 
need to take multiple batteries or buy a new one.


Thankyou.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME

PS In case you did not know it the launch and the battery are entirely 
different for F3B compared to a normal club setup.

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Re: [RCSE] Re: top or bottom driven ?

2005-06-22 Thread Richard Hallett

The biggest benefits of RADS for the average flyer are
1. storage and handling  and
2. much less landing damage.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME

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[RCSE] fiyah fiyah fiyah no just a mess

2005-06-21 Thread Richard Hallett
A set of alkaline batteries will last a long long time in a two channel 
glider.  Unfortunately I forgot they were alkaline and charged them into 
giving up the ghost .  The liquid from them destroyed the receiver and 
probably the only servo in the fuselage.  I had no fire but the fuselage 
was warm when the Triton sounded


Anyone know whether the liquid is an acid or a base?

I would like to do a good job cleaning as receivers are a might expensive.

Thank you

Rick

Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
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Re: [RCSE] Buying batteries

2005-05-22 Thread Richard Hallett
I go to WalMart and buy the newest high capacity AA cells that they are 
offering.  I have always found that the first charging has  to be slow 
but after that I recharge at 1 amp.  I am using these in a 6 servo 
glider and have found that I usually use about 600 ma during an evening 
of flying.  The Rx drain fairly closely matches the Tx drain of the Evo. 

This  of course only answers half your question since you wanted cells 
for smaller planes too.


Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME

Dave Brombaugh wrote:


Where do you like to buy your batteries for both the 3M sized planes,
but also for DLG's?

In my specific instance, I'm looking for a good place to buy 1/3AA
cells, where I'll make up the packs myself (two Encores in the building
table).

I have found a particular cell that I want from batteriesamerica.com
(AP-350AAH), and I can get them from there, but I'm curious where you
all like to shop for batteries.

I'll likely get my next 3M-sized battery pack from the same place, which
is why I'm making this into a more general question.

Thanks again in advance, all!
-   Dave


 


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Re: [RCSE] OVSS and Line Breaks

2005-05-17 Thread Richard Hallett
Maybe we are getting to that point that we are going to have to define 
winch as was done in F3B. 

Other countries did not have the Ford starter so went with individual 
winches  rather than club winches but now we have a definition for that 
winch 23 milliohms of resistance between the starter and battery.

We are now pushing for an unbreakable line but now have models that can 
break most reasonable line.  I find it rather absurd though that now we 
are spending more energy lifting the line rather than the plane.

So why are clubs sticking with the Ford longshaft convenience?  I am 
surprised that some club has not come up with an alternative using 
diesel starting motors.  Or are we someway saying this is enough.

I doubt that we have the courage to drop back to the quarter power of 
the F3B winch.  It depends on all kinds of wrong things.  Own my own 
winch? you must be crazy? Walk to retrieve? I am too old.  Those are a 
few starters.

A conundrum?
Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Tom's analysis is, as they might say in JOE (jolly olde England), SPOT ON.
And this excellent observation from non other than our current LSF President. 

Tom has the experience to define the FIX for this issue and has just done so.
I'll back his direction on this one.
Regards, Dave Corven.
 AMA 878
 LSF 254

 

I've followed this thread with some interest ... as JB said, we've
discussed this topic trekking back and forth from many contests in the
van.
The advent of affordable molded models has done more to cause line
problems than any other single facet of our chosen sport.  Today's
molded sailplanes are so strong that they can easily part 200# test
winch line, almost at will.  This is the primary reason we in the OVSS
and AMA/LSF Nats have moved to the 290# test lines we use today.  If
there are no burns, abrasions, crappy knots, etc. it's unlikely that
you will be able to break the line on purpose without damaging the
model.
With aircraft of this magnitude of strength, the need for developing
good winch technique has fallen by the wayside.  In my early days in
the sport, everyone flew open framework gasbags and a full pedal launch
on our SIX volt winches would result in a Monokoted bag full of sticks.
You learned to temper your foot or you learned to rebuild - fast!
Today's competition pilot doesn't need to develop any such technique,
he can simply hook up, step on the pedal and GO!  Poor winch technique
is easy to spot, the smoke coming from the winch armature and excessive
wing flex are sure indicators.  Moderating the amount of energy in the
line, motor and wings are all a part of launching technique that is all
too lacking among many competition pilots who have skipped the early
learning curves of winching built-up, more fragile models.
Examination of the line break often yields the answer to why the line
parted, the aforementioned abrasions, poor knots, frozen turnaround
pulleys ... equipment failures should result in a relight.  The pilot
that breaks the line as they push over into the zoom has no call for a
relight, he got 90+% of the way up.  The pilot who full pedal launches
through a thermal on tow shouldn't get a relight, either, unless the
equipment failed (and if he had proper technique, the line likely would
have stayed intact).
Weak links ... tried in F3B a decade or more ago, the weak link was
dropped quickly because the relative weakness of the link was actually
seen to be a safety hazard as most links failed just out of the
launcher's hand.  Yes, the (rather large) relative difference between
the line and the link had much to do with the problem, but what is the
right differential?  For a 100 RES or NOS vs a 3.9 meter Sharon?
Do we need devices on the winches to set torque or tension limits? 
Same issue as the weak link ... what's the right amount of torque and
is it the same for every model?

A seasoned pilot acting as the Launch Master can readily evaluate each
launch and come to a likely first approximation as to cause for line
failure on the spot ... subsequent investigation at the point of
failure serves to validate whether the call was correct or not.  I
would guess that the Launch Master is going to be right the majority of
the time.
Reserve one or two winches on the line for relights ... pilot calls the
break, Launch Master either denies the relight request and the pilot
continues the flight or confirms the relight and the pilot comes down
IMMEDIATELY for relaunch.  If the number of breaks exceeds the number
of backup winches, call the group down and start over.  I suggest if
that many lines break in the same round there are either equipment
issues or you're winching over desert scrub or through rose bushes.
Rather than look for a technological silver bullet, I propose that we,
as a part of bringing newer flyers into the competition circuit, teach
winch technique alongside air reading skills and spot landing practice.
It will improve

[RCSE] (no subject)

2005-05-11 Thread Richard Hallett
http://www.pbase.com/mdm/image/37831527.jpg 

If you are in Maine on Saturday 5/14 we would love to have you come and fly 
with us or at least have a hamburger at noon.
Rick
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Re: [RCSE] Ford Long Shaft Motor

2005-04-21 Thread Richard Hallett
The shunt was used on a two field model for 12 volts.  If you wish to 
take the motor apart you need to simply snip the two wires going to it.  
Compared to the main field windings they are very small.  But when the 
starter came off the Bendix by accident it held things under control.  
Doubtful if you will see much difference.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
Richard L Bothell wrote:
I have a couple winches with the FLS motor.  I seem to remember someone saying that a Shunt will limit the RPMs of the motor.  Or perhaps the power??.Can someone tell me how to eliminate the shunt  or  should I eliminate it.  Thanks,

Rick Bothell, Prescott Valley, AZ
www.handsfreeretriever.com
 

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Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

2005-04-20 Thread Richard Hallett
Most radios and modern equipment have a diode in them just for this 
accident.  In which case the battery is in the same condition as when he 
started and the fuse is still good.

Put it on the regular charger and charge for the right time and you should 
be all set.


Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2005 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Radio Charging Error-advice please

Cameron [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If you pluged in a charger from a different brand
(with reversed polarity) into the radio it will short
out the fuse in the TX.  You will have to replace the
fuse.
You'd think so, but apparently not because he already said his radio is 
okay:

I already put the 'correctly charged' battery in the TX that was on the 
Hitec
charger and everything works fine.
He'd be better off if the fuse had blown, but it sounds to me like the fuse
held, the battery charger reverse-charged his pack, and probably ruined it.
Mike
--
Winch Solenoid Safety Buzzer - http://www.vvsss.com/buzzer/
  _
 \__|__/
   (O)
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Re: [RCSE] trouble with balsa dust

2005-04-18 Thread Richard Hallett
Does an ionizer that strongly puts that pungent corona smell in the air 
make the dust settle faster?

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
Thomas Koszuta wrote:
As someone who has a touch of asthma to begin with, I take dust pretty 
seriously.  Though I've not yet developed an allergy to it yet, any 
serious sanding session will find me with a ring around my nose and 
mouth when I'm done.

BTW, it's not the charcoal canisters you need for balsa (though they 
won't hurt), its the HEPA (high efficiency particulate air) filter you 
want.  They usually double stack a chem absorber and the dust 
cartridge.  Make sure the seal is pretty good by putting your hands over 
the ends to block the air and see if you can pull a reasonable vacuum 
inside.  Tighten, adjust or replace if you can't get a good fit.  Not 
all masks fit all people and they come in different sizes.  Mine leaks a 
bit by my nose, so I have to adjust it a little lower than what the 
natural wear position would be (maybe it would be easier to get the nose 
adjusted - nah).

Dust off in the workshop if you can.  The dust settles pretty quick when 
using coarse paper, but don't be afraid to leave the mask on until the 
outer layer of clothing is off.  Oh and vacuum the shop before starting 
the covering  (I hated adding that part).

Hopefully the eye exposure doesn't cause any problems.
I don't know if this is as inevitable as the epoxy allergy, but others 
may still want to learn from it.

Tom Koszuta
Western New York Sailplane and Electric Flyers
Buffalo, NY
- Original Message - From: Ben Diss [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ed Berris [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: soaring@airage.com
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2005 8:52 PM
Subject: Re: [RCSE] trouble with balsa dust

Well Ed, you're screwed.  I've got the same thing.  Happened a few 
years ago.  Best I can suggest it to get a charcoal respirator and 
avoid Balsa. The respirator works good so long as you wear it.  
Trouble is, when you're done the dust is all over your closes and 
everything in your shop.  Take it off and breathe in the dust and hope 
your Kleenex box is full.

I got one of those big Jet filters hanging from my shop ceiling and 
that helps control the dust, but some is still left on everything else 
in the shop.  I've got good at attaching a vacuum to my power tools 
and that works well even with out the respirator.  For ol' fashioned 
sanding with a block however there is no magic bullet.

-Ben
Ed Berris wrote:
I realize this is not a medical forum, however, I suspect that others 
of you
have had some experience with reactions to balsa dust.

I seem to have developed quite a sensitivity to balsa dust.  With just a
small exposure it triggers asthma like symptoms including a nagging 
cough,
wheezing, a tightness in my chest and sometime dizziness or severe 
cold like
symptoms.

I wonder if others have had a similar experience and what they are 
doing so
that they can continue working with balsa without becoming ill.

I know that a good quality dust mask will be a must.  I have seldom 
worn on
in the past but I can see that I will need to now.

Miserable in Minnesota,
Ed
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[RCSE] SNOW/ planes for sale

2004-12-03 Thread Richard Hallett
Yes that four letter word.
Well most of the parts have arrived for my 4th CNC machine.  So it is
time now to think of building at least during the week.  Perhaps someone
in a warmer section could benefit
I finished off my fourteenth Bubble Dancer and have been flying it the
longest of any that I have built.I had flutter problems with the
previous two by allowing the stab mount to have a loose hinge.  With
this one I got rid of the problem.  Phew!!! Unfortunately when I
launched it I knew it was not quite as strong.  After some research I
found the green Amoco foam was no longer made by Amoco and the 45 #
compression had now dropped back to 25. It will still take a very
powerful launch from most winches.  So now it is time to build another
with Dow hi load 60.  The unit is covered with glass only no paint so
the carbon is very visible.  It is equipped with 2 metal gear Hitec 85,
no spoilers and an FMA M5 (ch11) receiver and a high capacity battery.
Flying weight is approximately 39 ounces. The foils are the AG24,25,26
that Mark designed specifically for the application and in the write up
has my name on them. Sale price $550 plus shipping.  It will be ready to
fly when you receive it.
The other plane that I was trying to wring out the flutter was a Supra
clone.  Again the fault proved to be the same.  It seems to be standing
up well to my F3B winch.  In order to iron out the difficulty though I
switched to a thicker wing the SD7084 that Donovan of Selig Donovan said
could race with the RG 15 at a slightly heavier loading.  The
interesting facet I find with this model is similar to my use of it
years ago in the Magic by Weston it can pirouette on flaps in lift
unlike others that I have flown.  The planform is similar to the Aegea
with the forward sweep of the Supra.  A case of making good use of your
mylar.  The unit is equipped with four digital thin wing servos by Hitec
and a Multiplex micro digital  for the elevator an d a Futaba 133 for
the rudder.  All up weight 75 ounces. The receiver is a Multiplex IPD on 
51 driven by a high capacity battery.  The top surface of the wing is white
with a pink tip diagonal . Of course this flies more like one of Harley's.
So now having gotten rid of the flutter it is time to build it with
Mark's thin foils again.  Sale price complete ready to fly the day it
lands $750 plus shipping
.

Finally I have a 3m Laser  with Multiplex digital servos in the wing and 
JR 341
 for the stab and rudder.  A new high capacity battery drives the
Airtronics FM receiver.  The Fuselage is natural Kevlar  with white
wings on the top and carbon black on the bottom.  The fuselage was
crashed once and excellently  repaired. Sale price $700 plus shipping.
I received this in exchange for assisting in programming an Evo.

Because of this the servo assignment is the Jr order for all of the above.
So if you are in the same boat I will sell an Evo(Synthesized) to go 
with any of the
above.  I have one Evo 9 $500 and an Evo 12 $600. You would primarily
buy them at this price because you are interested in the fact they are
preprogrammed.  The Evo is one of the easiest radios to program but
almost impossible because of our previous experience.  It is that
experience of flying a plane towards you for the first time.

Ask for pictures.
Rick
Richard Hallett
Pittsfield ME
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[RCSE] winch line

2004-10-27 Thread Richard Hallett
Icons.
Switch to an F3B style winch with  150# mono. The launch line won't break 
and the altitude will blow your socks off.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
PS Not suitable for contest use unless you do some adaptation of the format. 

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[RCSE] Re: Soaring V1 #4400

2004-10-03 Thread Richard Hallett
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 19:23:17 -0700
From: Les Grammer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Soaring V1 #4399
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So tell me if you wouldn't mind...how does the 'ascending score' work? You
try to make each flight longer than the previous?  If it comes up shorter,
you start over again, then the person who gets to the highest time wins, or
greatest difference between first and 3rd time, or what?  Sounds
interesting!
At 07:37 PM 10/2/2004 -0400, you wrote:
3rd best ascending score. with a mandatory landing circle.  Fly any time
till the closing moment.



  This is very similar to the HLG 15 second increment type contest in which
you keep trying till you are up to the next increment with the exception
that here no one tells you where to start nor how big the increment  and the
two ends are floating all day.
The score sheet is a large piece of plastic near the launch point.
Consequently when you come enter your score you can see all the others but
you would have to calculate how they were doing by running back through
their
scores. Usually someone is already standing there doing the same.
Ascending is in time.  No scores are thrown out.  As time has gone on the
strategy of serious pilots is changing.  So now you purposefully put in a
few moderate scores attempting to make them grow.  Then all day you try to
continue to make them grow.
At the end of the day we all go back through all the scores and pick out the
numbers to give us the third best ascending.
Knowing how it went last year I flew a 621 on my first flight followed later
by a
628 but could never get higher so had to fall back on all the low scores
that I had made in attempting to get something over the 628.  I was sure I
would easily be beaten if I did not have a moderate ten minute flight for
the beginning of the run. Scores posted 621,171,207,247,216,125,668,140,461.
So my ending score was 207.
New pilot had the following string 10,114,90,91,65,80,111,104.  His third
best ascending score was 90.
Of course you know what happened.  The weather changed and a few generous
cycles of lift went through but not good enough when I needed it with my
moderate skill.  Photo of scoring panel is posted on the club site
http://archive.downeastsoaring.org/td050104/score.jpg
When the thermals came through many people were able to jump on it because
they had their launch system ready.  The rest of the time we had a slow
relaxed contest with no pressure chasing timers or slots.  Most contestants
flew more in the contest than they would normally all month.
This fall we are adding a mandatory landing.  You must be in the circle to
claim the score.
Now if you were perfect you would add the hours from 10.00 till 3.00 in the
afternoon and set yourself up for three flights and throw out 30 minutes.
That would give you 3.5 hours.  So fly the first time for 65 minutes.  The
second time for 70 .  Then your final for 75.  Giving you scores of 3900,
4200, and 4500 with a winning score of 3900 but will the weather cooperate?
Questions??
Thankyou for asking.
Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME

Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2004 19:23:17 -0700
From: Les Grammer [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: Soaring V1 #4399
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
So tell me if you wouldn't mind...how does the 'ascending score' work? You
try to make each flight longer than the previous?  If it comes up shorter,
you start over again, then the person who gets to the highest time wins, or
greatest difference between first and 3rd time, or what?  Sounds
interesting!
At 07:37 PM 10/2/2004 -0400, you wrote:
3rd best ascending score. with a mandatory landing circle.  Fly any time
till the closing moment.

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[RCSE] contest in Maine - possible interesting format

2004-10-02 Thread Richard Hallett
Hemond Airport Minot ME 10/16
Open thermal duration
3rd best ascending score. with a mandatory landing circle.  Fly any time 
till the closing moment.

One pilot per frequency.  Register in advance for your frequency.
You provide your own launch method or share.  Any system must be open to any 
other pilot. You time for yourself.

Of course there are a few other normal rules.
If nothing else join us for a different format

Rick
Richard Hallett cd
Pittsfield ME 04967
800 430 3058 

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[RCSE] Re: Soaring V1 #4387

2004-09-30 Thread Richard Hallett
I have always hope that F3B would shorten the line length.
This, as an official line length; could open up more small fields for use.
Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield Maine
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2004 13:58:13 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Monaco [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Contests, Landings, etc.
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Good points Daryl,
Another example is F3J, where we are measuring time to the hundreths and
nearly
every competitor lands 95+ (with no skegs :) ).  Check out the stats from
the
Worlds. There is talk of dividing the points between 90 and 100 to provide
more
discrimination.  Landings are the only thing discriminating the leaders.
There are lots of options to modify the tasks - shorter lines, longer times,
different landings, each of which has it's own warts.  The tasks as they
have
evolved are generally fair and accepted.  This does not mean there is no
room
for change, just that one needs to understand the effect of the change on
the
game... and it is just a game...
Jim
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Subject: RE: [RCSE] Re: Happiness Is

2004-09-07 Thread Richard Hallett
I have shipped in plywood with pine corners outside.  Probably local people
were blind.

Rick

Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2004 07:48:50 -0400
From: John Derstine [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: 'James V Bacus' [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [RCSE] Re: Happiness Is
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

The only way to insure no damage in shipping sailplanes is to wrap the
box with 1/8 Luan ply. UPS won't allow plywood on the outside, so you
just hot glue it to the inside. Fedex doesn't care. It is $6.00 per 4x8
sheet, cheap insurance.

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[RCSE] Harley

2004-02-20 Thread Richard Hallett

First Happy Birthday

To help us celebrate how about a list of your published planes for the
youngsters.

Thankyou.

Rick

Rich Hallett Pittsfield ME

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[RCSE] Ace Micro Pro

2004-02-19 Thread Richard Hallett
I sold my Micro Pro's but I have a friend that still has a couple.

There used to be a source for fm modules.

Is that source still available?

If so a website please.

Thankyou.

Rick
Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME
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[RCSE] monofilament

2004-01-28 Thread Richard Hallett
Rule one with monofilament.

No excess on the drum when you are ready to launch.

Unlike braided it will unwind on itself many layers down like a giant
uncoiling spring.  Commonly known as a rats nest.

Rick

Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME




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Subject: Re: [RCSE] Re: Re: Tim Mcann winch ?

2003-10-16 Thread Richard Hallett
Gravity.

Take the old solenoid apart before you install the new one.  Now mount the
new one so gravity can help the little return spring and also prevent some
side drag.

If I remember Ford had a dent in the inner fender to mount this correctly

Rick

Richard Hallett
Pittsfield ME USA

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[RCSE] F3J/ 10/18/03

2003-10-14 Thread Richard Hallett
http://www.downeastsoaring.org

Since 91(guessing, the year before we had our trial international contest) I
have held an F3J contest the weekend after Columbus Day. Last ten or so have
been in Minot, Maine.

We have always had many who have come just to watch.  But if you are
available come to participate.  Bring your biggest planes because they are
generically easier to launch this way.

Details on the club page for time map etc.
http://www.downeastsoaring.org


Questions??

Richard Hallett
Pittsfield ME USA


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Re: [RCSE] Dyneema, Spectra

2003-07-04 Thread Richard Hallett
Good leading edge material but very hard to cut.

Easiest cutting was with a soldering iron.  Then in today's thin layers you
would probably be left with a bump.  After I stopped using it I found I
should have been cutting all the fabrics at 45 then I probably would have
felt differently about some of the difficult fabrics.

Rick

Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME USA


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[RCSE] 35 ounces/ wind

2003-03-21 Thread Richard Hallett
Bubble Dancer dances at 32 till about 38 then you begin to lose the Dance.

The plan is to make a very low drag plane.  The foils are high speed very
thin but to make them work in the application very light.  Aim to get the
lightness so you can enjoy the benefits of the high speed foil.  Kind of
your cake and eat it too

The response is much different to ballast compared to a draggy foil.
Ballast picks you up real quick

I build them very light like this to enjoy in the evening at Sundown after
work.

Rick

Richard Hallett Pittsfield ME USA

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[RCSE] Fred Sage

2002-12-05 Thread Richard Hallett
If you are available please give me a private reply I would like to ask a
question.

Thankyou.

Rick

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[RCSE] Highstart Max Launch

2002-11-25 Thread Richard Hallett
The ping.

As the wind goes down you need a stronger hi start.  Conversely as the wind
goes up you need less.

Wind is required but usually not much. As you launch your glider at about a
hundred feet you go sideways then after that direction you reverse and in
the back and forth pattern attempt to stretch the line as you slowly climb.
In favorable conditions it is possible to reach a thousand feet before
coming off the hi start.  The chute will bang when it opens just like full
sclale.

Unfortuinately you had better have a spar that can support it.

As a result I have always considered any contest with a hi start rather
ridiculaous because it boils down to the same thing - launch skill.  I do
not see anything simple about it.

I used to carry three to match the days conditions.

Rick

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RE: [RCSE] New Shop

2002-09-30 Thread Richard Hallett

  In my shop I have a twelve foot by 16 inch glass table on an old straight
medium duty extension ladder.  This is supported by steel stools on the
concrete floor.  All cutting and setting of wings are done on this table.
This table is set up as a zone off the boiler with output temperature set
for a cut at 140'. I do not walk behind it.  In addition I have a 30x60 inch
table set in the room paralleling the glass table.  This table is set to
walk around it.  I aim shortly to pick up my piece of glass that will make
this table a glass table too.The other major piece is the vacuum pump.

The radial arm saw and bandsaw are in the cold area on top of the garage.  I
use the radial arm saw for finishing edges that need to be joined after they
are bagged.  I find I can get pretty good precision with this.  Truthfully
there is no need to own this tool if someone you know has one near you and
would allow you to install your blade on their saw.

I have to go next door for the air compressor  The air compressor is used to
get the dust all the composite wings to get the last gram of weight off
them.  It proved very valuable in helping to knock the last few grams off
the components to meet the Bubble Dancer challenge  - 32 ounces.

I have shelves and tool boxes with many other tools that are occasionally
used. I have a large fishing tackle box for small parts I have other places
to do heavy work and brazing.

So basically my shop consists of two glass tables with one heated and a
vacuum pump.

You have probably guessed that I do everything in glass and carbon.  With
balsa I will hack for days.

New foam stands behind the glass table lengthwise leaning against the wall.
Small tools are kept in several tool boxes.

I really felt stupid afterwards when someone asked to see my workshop and
all there is - two empty tables

I am notorious for giving everything away to have a fresh start.  But I am
very sneaky about this.  You give away planes to people that you will see
using them.  Sometimes it gets embarrassing when someone flies your old
plane better than you did.  Most of the time though you can evaluate your
new production by letting the same people fly them and quietly looking at
your watch.

The phrase I used to describe the situation is to say that it is
politically expedient to keep a low profile

All the nice toys tools and planes in the same place can get you in
trouble.  Theft, insurance, your wife.

I need to get that central vac though that Bill has in his list but I will
leave the rest scattered over the premises.  In addition I am still trying
to figure how I am going to finagle a  cnc foam cutter into this situation
to keep it low key

Rick



Date: Mon, 30 Sep 2002 14:00:38 -0700
From: Bill Swingle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Robert Bingham [EMAIL PROTECTED],
rcse [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: RE: [RCSE] New Shop
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

In order:

Band Saw
Belt Sander
Drill Press
Good Bench Vise
Central Vac
Grinder
Dremel
Air Compressor

Bill Swingle
Janesville, CA
[EMAIL PROTECTED]


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[RCSE] Rahm retriever

2002-07-04 Thread Richard Hallett

Twist.
Back to back spinners with two rings between will just about eliminate the
problem.  If not find out which end of the spinners is restricting movement.
At that end put two more rings.The rings act as the universal joint to
free up the spinners to spin.  If the spinners are too light I have heard
this can cause problems.  Further you may have to do some work on your winch
line too  with double swivels in exactly the same way.  It is assumed you
are using braided nylon or Dacron  for the retriever and braided nylon for
the winch . Twisted line simply causes too many difficulties since you are
always trying to unwind the twist

Speed
The Rahm was supposed to have used a 6volt motor.  You could sub a 12 or 24
armature cut to length to slow it down.  The cheap way out is to use a piece
of heavy coat hanger between the relay and the starter.  Protect it because
it can glow red hot but usually will perform the function well for you.  I
have also used 3/32 stainless welding rod.

Rick


Date: Thu, 4 Jul 2002 10:06:05 -0400
From: Barry Andersen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Rahm retriever
Message-ID: p05001903b94a04b832d5@[10.0.1.2]

CSS has a Rahm retriever that doesn't get much use.  I tried somewhat
successfully to get it going.  It does, however, put a lot of twist
in the line which leads to some problems of snarls.  Swivels are in
place on the harness now.

Does anyone use a Rahm retriever successfully?  If so, what line is
in use, do you use something to work against the twist, eg. prop or
spinner, any recommended techniques?  We're running ours on a 6 volt
battery and it still goes wy fast.

Any help appreciated.

Barry


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[RCSE] RDS DS

2002-03-26 Thread Richard Hallett

Harley I am basically lazy.

The best reason for using RADS at the slope is to preserve the servos.

Very little movement is typically needed.  So here is the lazy man's way to
do it. Apologies but to understand this you have to understand the RADS
system first off Harley's site.

That being the case (limited throw requirement) completely make the wing as
normal (foam and glass not EPP) but with the trailing edge made with the
rest of the wing.   Cast a  small slug at the hinge line going from one skin
to the other with epoxy and West Systems light filler or something similar
where you want the hinge bearing to be in the wing and the slot in the
aileron. Make this as one slug of epoxy and filler by cutting out the foam
after the glassing  has been completed and fill it in with the epoxy filler
slurry...  Of course you would put it in
from the bottom for looks.  When you have determined where the drive should
go drill through the slug vertically with a small drill (large enough to
cut through and still be seen) for a marker on the hinge line. Now bandsaw
the hinge line and finish it to your hearts content.  Drill the hole towards
the servo slot using the marker as your precision entry point..  Use a piece
of wire through that and use your wire cutter current to make a cone from
there to the servo (you have already cut the servo pocket).  In the opposite
direction you only need to take the   dremel tool and make a slightly wider
horizontal hole (for the pocket) with the drill of the size you are using
for the drive at
the same marker that you made originally..  Don't forget to make your holes
as the instructions suggest in relation to the type of service.  Now this
will not work for flaps but is terrific for the limited throw of most
ailerons.  You have just created your pocket in the aileron and
excellent bearing in the wing and a cone slot to get to the servo.  Now
carry on by bending your wire and sizing it to fit to the servo with the
RADS driver already installed.

  Now my question Harley.  Is there a source for buying the normal RADS
bulk. 50-100 at a time

Rick

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[RCSE] still-air times

2002-01-04 Thread Richard Hallett

I was very pleased to be able to get 6 minutes in dead air time.  Thought I
was doing well.  Launch could only safely produce a moderate zoom though.
Conditions several nights in a row.  Dead air, never a twitch.  To get the
six minutes I still had to turn with trims only otherwise I would only get
five minutes.

Interesting to note I frequently did better this way than nights with the
little bits of lift

I have read of the attempt to produce planes like this but decided that I
lived only in sink.

I have seen Dennis Phelan and one of his friends though produce launches
that looked to be double the height with their F3B models .  At those
heights I would not be suprised at the times Mike records

Very interesting.

Rick

Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2002 08:01:06 -0800 (PST)
From: tony estep [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: How long is yours?
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re still-air times:

Suppose that you can launch to 600 feet (pretty good for still air with
a 600 foot line). If your plane's loading is 9 oz/sq ft, at a CL of 0.9
it will fly 23 ft/sec. Therefore if the L/D at that speed is 23 the
sink rate will be 1 ft/sec. That's 10:00 from 600 feet.

BUT -- there are a lot of moving parts in this test. It's hard to get
consistent flights with the same launch height and to keep the plane
flying at minimum sink throughout the flight. And of course it doesn't
take much air movement to change the results dramatically. If the air
is rising at even 10 ft/min, you'll stay up 12 minutes instead of 10!
This sort of air movement is easily possible even after dark. So it's
mighty hard to be sure you're drawing the right conclusions about a
plane's performance from still-air testing.

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[RCSE] nylon screws: how strong is strong?

2001-07-25 Thread Richard Hallett

A 1/4-28 is supposed to be able to hold 800 pounds in pull.

I use two 10/32 for zoom launching of f3b size.

Rick

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[RCSE] New toys New Toys Yeah!!!!

2001-07-12 Thread Richard Hallett

Let's put a positive spin on this for Karlton

Hope you find it worthwhikle.

Rick



From: Karlton Spindle [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Soaring List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Jack Strother [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: BAD NEWS for me :(  Boo Hooo
Message-ID: 001d01c10a4a$4c4da860$[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Well Multiplex has summoned me to come to Germany for our half year meeting.


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[RCSE] Finishing a glass wing??

2001-07-12 Thread Richard Hallett

I was complaining about the non stiffness of my ailerons and asked what
could be done about it.  I received a reply from the famous or notorious
Sal.  His response was to finish off those two exposed surfaces and gain a
lot in stiffness.

He was right.  Finishing off that foam does matter.

Thankyou  again Sal.

I simply paint on a layer of West system epoxy then lay on a much wider
layer of glass in about 2 ounce.  Then I put enough more of epoxy on the
surface of the new layer of glass to make sure it is filled at the edges.
When it is dry you should have produced a slight bump at each of the two
edges of the narrow strip which you can sand from the top and bottom then
lightly on the exposed side you had before.  This is a very easy finish and
produces great results.  I normally in addition trying to get the best of
both worlds cut this glass at 45 degrees.  But this makes the handling while
doing the job quite difficult so be patient.  Put on the other way the grain
probably would end up in the wrong place.  The results are strong enough to
use poly tape and pull pull on the rudder without it crushing inwards.  The
stiffness gain on the ailrerons is impressive.

The same technique is used for finishing the exposed ends of wings where
they butt together.  The finish is put on after the joiner is completed.
The joiner is inserted with a casting of West System epoxy and light filler
as follows for the hardpoints.

Now that this edge is finished I cut out the hole area for the hardpoints.
Cut from one surface down just to the other area.  Then pick out the foam
like a dentist doing a good undercutting job.  When you are finished; fill
with West System finishing epoxy filled with their lightest filler.  I
usually try to undercut the hole so that it extends against the new surface
you have just created.  You probably should think in terms of about a three
eighths inch cutout extended under the surface to about half or more.  After
doing this a few times I discovered in some kit reviews in QFI that some
manufacturers were beginning to do it this way.

Rick

PS Like many others I have gotten in the bad habit of replying privately.
So how would the rest of you do it differently??.

Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2001 19:00:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Lee Cox [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: soaring mail page [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Finishing a glass wing??
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

I would like to hear some of the pros and cons about
whether or not the edges of the ailerons / flaps 
back side of wing should be finished or left as open
foam.
It seems to me that if edges are sealed with
(glass-epoxy or?? )it would structurally be a stronger
wing and would help to stop any twist. I see a lot of
wings unfinished.  HELP!!! LEE



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[RCSE] hitec Eclipse

2001-04-15 Thread Richard Hallett

Who is selling the Eclipse .  I am looking for just the TX and the Spectra
module but if available without I do not even need  the TX module since I
have one already.

Thankyou.

Rick

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[RCSE] foam

2001-02-17 Thread Richard Hallett

My foam supplier tells me that Dow grayboard is no different than Owens
corning Foamular 150. The tow sure feel and look different to me. What
is the deal?

Mike in Arcata

Mike I personally did not like pink.  I always considered it soft to the
touch.  Then I met gray but that also is the same.

The gray was slightly lighter in weight than the normal blue.  But the gray
also was much easier to dent.  The normal green was harder than the blue.

All this gets technically non difficult if you knew the pressure under which
it was formed.  I have used blue formed at 25 but I think gray was 15 or 20.
For small pieces and very thin I have used the "hi load 40".  Depending
where you live and the purpose of use the standard for you in blue could be
anything from 15-30.  I think most of us see 25.  This is pounds per cubic
foot.  You have to take your calculator and scales with you .  This is
assuming that as it is made under higher pressure the weight somewhat
follows the pressure.

Bottom line for the layman is weigh it then you will be much closer in your
comparison.






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[RCSE] foam

2001-02-17 Thread Richard Hallett

Since foam comes in various colors and densities use the two properties to
color the wing.  It is a thought but you may not like what you see
underneath but it all disappears at launch height anyway.

The question that is important is what I can see in the air not on the
ground.  Unfortunately that usually means white top and black or dark
bottom.  Somewhere you are going to add weight to make the color.

I have taking the lazy way out by adding no color on the top and just as I
finish I lay black tissue on the lay-up just as I close the sandwich before
putting it in the bag.  This only goes on the bottom of the mid sections of
the three piece panels

I did see a wing with just the glass on it with pink foam.  Looked real
good.

Just a suggestion.

Rick

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Fw: [RCSE] Coloring Epoxy

2000-12-23 Thread Richard Hallett


Probably this will be hitting the list twice since I put the wrong address
on it the first time.


 Question??

 I thought we could use acrylic pigment with epoxy.

 Is this true or false.

 Thankyou.

 Rick


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[RCSE] forSALE/Spectra fabric

2000-12-23 Thread Richard Hallett

48x72inches 5 ounces 1.8 ounce/ sq yd  $50 you pay shipping
48X80 inches 9.5 ounces 2.96 ounces / yard $40 you pay shipping

Thankyou.

Rick

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[RCSE] Winter thermal research cont'

2000-12-14 Thread Richard Hallett

In winter the "sheltered" area becomes very prominent as the place to look
for thermals.  Everything is the same white so the question then becomes
where is the wind not hitting because of some sheltering feature that would
allow the heat to build and kick.


Rick

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[RCSE] creating a wingrod tunnel in foam?

2000-10-25 Thread Richard Hallett

The scrollsander page has some fantastic pictures of how to do it.  Again
like others I have been doing it this way for years.

MY WRINKLE.

I do not use an exotic supply.  I take the present transformer used for
normal cutting and add about six to ten turns of #17 or #18 magnet wire to
give me the low volt heavy amps I need for this cutter.  This idea will only
help a few for the rest a long explanation probably will be necessary.  I
suppose that would make this idea exotic for many.  My present cutting
supply  is a new battery charger adapted for the purpose.

In addition I save my MacDonald straws for the wire tunnels.

Nothing like light spackle for correcting all the mistakes.

Oh yes in answer to one question you have to know through expertise that any
wire not in the cut is going to turn red hot and cut by radiant heat rather
than contact.  This means that the form has to make all the wire contact
almost all the time or you must lower your temperature drastically.

Rick


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Re: [RCSE] Gas Powered Winches?

2000-09-07 Thread Richard Hallett

I gave away the large Sears deep cycle battery I used for the May contest.
It was too heavy for my back to handle.  Same for the Ford winch.  So I
dropped back to a small Lucas 35 starter  and a Bosch permanent magnet
starter.  To get good launches I use the very stretchy Advantage 130 line.
I use a better garden tractor battery with it.. Next May I will buy another
battery to go with the Ford long shaft winch with "real balls" for the
contest then give the battery away at the end.

As a kid I destroyed my ability to throw anything overhand so have never
attempted hand launch.  The knees are pretty stale at this point too.

The gas powered winch not generator was published before 1980 in RCM but
they did not include any information on the individual pages so I have the
article but do not remember exactly when  He also did a small electric
according to the article in 2/77  The gas is based on a Poulan chain saw.
finished weight  was  12#.

Rick

-

Date: Thu, 7 Sep 2000 15:31:10 EDT
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [RCSE] Gas Powered Winches?
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

In a message dated 9/7/00 1:29:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Anyone have experience with using a small 12V gas power generator for a
 winch? 

It's been done, even written up in the mags back when.  Eric Sanders of
Compufoil frame built one that I saw before he moved away from the East,
maybe he will chime in.
Good Lift!


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[RCSE] Rx at low temp

2000-07-27 Thread Richard Hallett

I had six of one brand that failed below 30'F.  I expected to fly down to
0'F and found this very upsetting.  My radios of the past did not do this.

Worse still you would not be aware of this because coming from the house or
car they would retain some heat and then slowly die as their temperature
dropped

Any Rx that will run at these low temperatures.??  Almost all the old "am"s
would

Rick

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[RCSE] Airfoil Accuracy/Fantasy...

2000-06-26 Thread Richard Hallett

The original author of this string had an excellent point.

From the recommendation of the original presentation by Selig and Donovan at
the appropriate MARCS symposium.  I have used the SD7084 for years with
excellent results.

Besides being an excellent airfoil second to very very few it is "do-able".
Flat bottom, easily out thermals most, races with the RG15, good stall
characteristics and many other good qualities

That alone("do-able") recommends it as an excellent starting point.  After
reading the article though you may stay there for the 2m and up classes.



Rick

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[RCSE] MAS epoxy

2000-03-23 Thread Richard Hallett

At spring sale time the boat dealer is pushing MAS epoxy.

Anyone used it?

How is it for viscosity  odor?

Rick


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[RCSE] 5-6% stab foil

2000-03-10 Thread Richard Hallett



"Not surprising.  The 10% SD8020 is too thick for most glider tails.  A slab
airfoil is just plain bad.
Both will surely have nonlinearities.  A 5-6% thick airfoil with the max
thickness point
well forward at 20-25% chord is much better, since it is immune to most
hysteresis effects.
With such a tail I'm sure you'd see much less effect when changing decalage.

--
- Mark Drela"

Now that you have wetted our appetite what is your suggestion for that foil
that I should be using?.  Is it a special item or do I have it on file and
don't even know it?

Rick






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[RCSE] coreless

2000-02-27 Thread Richard Hallett

The FMA website  http://www.fmadirect.com   is the easiest site to get to
that lists a coreless servo.  The prime difference is the quality and type
of the motor.  In addition the gear system is normally of the higher
quality.  The problem is their size.  I have not had the chance to examine
any of their coreless servos.  With there better parts being the top of the
manufacturers lines of course they will center better.  So if you were only
to buy one it might be worth it just for the elevator.

The Horizon listing of servos is much harder to get to and does not list
which ones are coreless in the list that I viewed.   Their easiest list to
read is their former "Indy" ad or catalog division of Horizon in AMA.
Unfortunately the AMA magazine is available to probably less than half the
list.  In addition they don't always include the list.

Everyone else has decided the standard case is .812 inches wide but JR is
.75 wide.  The JR will do flaps on many wings with a standard case.  The
standard case gives about twelve options of which there are several coreless
and beyond that several digital.

The coreless JR are very smooth running.  The average person will be very
surprised when they attempt to move the top of the servo and discover how
easily it turns and smoothly.  I have not had the opportunity to try the FMA
this way.

I had one friend who flew helicopter.  Basically you had to have at least
ball bearings and often beyond that coreless for the desired performance.
But when it came to contest days for other types -  he was both a very good
flyer but an excellent builder- he would use bottom of the line Jr which was
at that time the 507.  His logic-  he needed the servo to last  three trim
flights a half dozen practice flights and then three or four contest flights
then he would sell it.  He felt that would last long enough for him to do
that but it would take a little more and you could tell they were
deteriorating.

His advice on gliders was to give the elevator a blip in either the up or
down direction your choice before launching but always the same direction.
This was to test for radio on and set the  elevator to the same position
each time for launch.  This took care of many of the non centering and
similar problems that we often see.

So the coreless if you can find one that will fit in the application::
because they are ball bearing , better gears, and coreless motor would
easily outlast the common servo.  But wouldn't you expect that at 3xs the
price.  Now the question is will it improve it enough to make it worthwhile?
Or will I keep it long enough to make it worthwhile?

Rick


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[RCSE] hairspray as a release agent

2000-02-16 Thread Richard Hallett

Epoxyworks #14 Fall 99 in an article by Tom Pawlak suggested  extra heavy
hold hairspray in place of PVA on top of Meguiar's Mirror Glaze 8 Maximum
Release Wax or Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Automotive Paste Wax .

Anyone tried it??

Thankyou.

Rick

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[RCSE] Krylon Paint

2000-02-16 Thread Richard Hallett

Please reply just to be sure with a number off the side of the can.

I have managed to make every possible mistake in the book this winter and
want things as specific as possible.

Thankyou.

Rick

PS I kept reading the digest and Harley suggested white 1501 so I dashed
downstairs to see if that was the number that I bought last week.  Sure
enough.  Ah!!!  Things are brightening already.  Thankyou Harley


Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2000 13:22:37 -0800
From: "Gary Milabar" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Krylon Paint

I remember a while back some talk about the NEW Krylon paint and that it
wasn't as good as the old style.

I'm getting ready to finish up a TD ship and don't want to ruin a good set
of wings.

What or how can U tell the difference in the two paints. Someone mentioned
that the old had High Gloss written in black on the cap,
and that the new had HG written in white.

P.S. the Wallmart here has almost all white lettered caps.

  Thanks G.M. Elko, Nevada


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[RCSE] article source/ choke

2000-02-14 Thread Richard Hallett

Anyone know the source of this article.

Thankyou.

Rick

Just saw a choke made from a servo lead in a recent mag, believe a March
issue(MAN, MA or SEM). Twisted and wound up into a donut shape. Not sure
how well it works.

RB

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Re: [RCSE] Radio Problems-need a source of choke

2000-02-14 Thread Richard Hallett

The most important change for the glitching at the back of the vtail was not
touched by chokes  and capacitors.  I had also done the flaps and ailerons
the same way really compounding the problem..

I was using #26 computer cable wire and using just four wires.  When I used
separate wires for each servo, since I did not have any larger wire with a
thin enough insulation cover, the beads and capacitors could clean up the
act and in fact were hardly needed.  So much so that I am still looking for
a good source of wire in the next two sizes commonly used 24 and 22.  I
should credit someone for writing a note to me about this but I have
forgotten but would like to pass on their tip to me that worked.

Just in case you are thinking of responding as a supplier to the preceding I
am not looking for 3 feet .  I think in terms of 100 500 or 1000.




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Re: [RCSE] RE: JR8103

2000-01-17 Thread Richard Hallett

It was not folklore it was Futaba's statement late 80's early 90's to stay
within  a very short range of the original frequency.

Jr was the first with a RX that could accept the full range of crystals.

So now at this point I would not be surprised in their new TX they can do
the same

Rick



- Original Message -
From: Joel A. Foner [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Bailey, Donald F [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Scale Soaring
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'David Crutchley'
[EMAIL PROTECTED]; 'John Derstine' [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: soaring [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 4:56 PM
Subject: RE: [RCSE] RE: JR8103


 Scale Soaring

 I would have to agree.  The reason I originally wrote is that I pushed the
 Horizon tech rep a bit about this when he suggested that I could "just
drop
 in another JR crystal", and accepted it after he insisted it was ok.
 "Should'a known better..."

 Thanks - I guess I'll pick up a couple of tx modules.

 Regards,

 Joel

  -Original Message-
  From: Bailey, Donald F [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
  Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 12:04 PM
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Bailey, Donald F; Scale Soaring; 'David
  Crutchley'; 'John Derstine'
  Cc: soaring
  Subject: [RCSE] RE: JR8103
 
 
  Now, I was told by some knowledgeable types that the new 8103
  tranny can accept crystals across the entire R/C band without
  any problems, and I have been using ch 23 and ch 58 crystals in
  my module with no problems whatsoever.
 
  Folk knowledge says that one should never vary frequencies by
  more than two or three channels either side of factory-tuned
  channel, as John says below.  I guess I trusted the above
  information enough to try it (more than once) and got lucky.  No
  glitching, not even a hiccup.  Maybe I should have the tranny
  tested with both crystals to see if it is within acceptable rf
  limits for each frequency before flying on the off-channel
  again.  The Puyallup Model Expo is coming up on Feb. 5th, and
  the AMA does while-u-wait testing at their booth, so I'll let
  you all know the results soon.
 
  I sure do agree with John's caution below, about having to
  remember which crystal you have installed.  I adopted the habit
  of flagging my antenna base for each frequency, so I don't
  forget, but sheesh, it would sure be easy to change memories and
  forget to change crystals, ya know?  Your plane might not
  respond to the tranny signals, but you could end up shooting
  someone down before you discovered why.
 
  Don Bailey
  Seattle Area Soaring Society
 
   --
   From: John Derstine[SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
   Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 3:08 AM
   To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Bailey, Donald F; Scale
  Soaring; 'David Crutchley'
   Cc: soaring
   Subject: RE: JR8103
  
   Scale Soaring
  
   If you swap crystals in low band or high band stay within a few
channel
   numbers, the "consensus" is that is alright. I am surprised Horizon
   recomended this, although it is done by some folks.
   Its kind of like the guy who buys a 1500 dollar glider then
  puts $15 dollar
   servos in it. It will probably work, but why take the chance. Just an
   opinion from the cautious side. Most guys I know swap modules,
  not xtls.
   It's easier, and subjects the fragile crystals to less banging
  about.The
   really important factor is when you go to an impounded fly in,
  you will most
   likely have the right channel number on your module. If you
  forget, and the
   impound guy or gal doesn't make you pull your radio apart to
  check then it
   is up to your good memory what channel your on.
  
John Derstine
   E-mail; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Scale Soaring: http://www.Geocities.com/~scalesoar
  
  
   -Original Message-
   From: Joel A. Foner [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
   Sent: Monday, January 17, 2000 1:32 AM
   To: John Derstine; Bailey, Donald F; Scale Soaring; 'David Crutchley'
   Cc: soaring
   Subject: RE: JR8103
  
  
   Scale Soaring
  
   That's interesting... I spoke with a Horizon tech rep last
  year and they
   recommended just installing a new JR crystal.  I switched from
  ch 46 to ch
   31 and have had no problems.  Now I wonder if this was the
  right move...
  
   Regards and thanks for the tip - I'll call them again to check
  this out.
  
   Joel
  
-Original Message-
From: John Derstine [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 8:07 PM
To: Bailey, Donald F; Scale Soaring; 'David Crutchley'
Cc: soaring
Subject: RE: JR8103
   
   
Scale Soaring
   
Be leary of swaping just crystals(in the Transmitter),
  Horizon reccomends
swapping modules as the RF decks are tuned to the crystal. It
operates as a
tuned entity. If you are flying valuble models whats a few
  more bucks. RX
crystal swapping is less of a problem.
   
   
-Original Message-
From: Bailey, Donald F [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 5:23 PM
To: Scale Soaring; 'David Crutchley'

[RCSE] bashin plain bashin you know planes that got hit by the ground

2000-01-13 Thread Richard Hallett

Two stupid substitutes or so I found out later.

Finished off my most recent plane in time for F3J, Minot, ME.  I had been
hard pressed to complete it the night before so figured I could hold the 35"
tip sections onto the 52" center section with the carbon joiners and a pass
of tape all the way around the wing.  I was wrong one of them allowed slight
working followed by a dramatic bang as the two tips rotated and  ripped off
followed at some point by breaking the two bolts on the center section.
After making the new fuselage I then put the necessary socket head #4 screws
in the wing tips and drilled the pilot holes larger in the center section.
It has since  gone through much worse and survived. Interesting to be able
to break the joiner though and save the wing.

On some point in perfecting the fuselage third or fourth version I ran out
of masking tape.   I usually cover the bottom of the servo with masking tape
and make sure it is well bonded.  When I put the joint glass in the bottom
of the pod I float it with lots of epoxy and jam the servos into it.  So
since I have no masking tape I reached for the Manco poly tape that I use
for wing hinges.  I put that on in a very easy fashion since it could be put
on with its width in one pass.  First landing they popped out because epoxy
does not stick to poly.

Live and learn.

Rick

PS I only can afford what I can design and build but I sure look forward to
that next NSP catalog.

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[RCSE] Bias layup schedule question....

2000-01-11 Thread Richard Hallett

You have to have the answer to another question too.  How many layers do I
need for handling.  Another I have discovered is how much time out of the
heat(curing is done at elevated temperature) before I can handle the
product.

Then you need to consider the bushes and the weeds on the front edge and
will the ailerons and flaps be stiff enough.

Having mouthed off this far I have discovered that brown Kraft paper 60
pound will work with a spar to quite a high load.  But the white paper that
weighs almost the same is all fillers and has no strength.  I usually pick
the front up with two inch wide bias cut boat cloth (6 ounce).  In addition
the roots will need a band to transfer the load of the joiner.  But I am
always poking the wing tip into something so I add a small square at the
very tip to pick up that area too.

This is from the school of hard knocks.  But given three layers the
tradition has been a full layer to the tip.  A second layer to the half and
a third layer to the quarter .  But since the load rises exponentially at
the root we probably should do thirds.  With the second layer to one third
and the third layer to one sixth..  Then you start saying but this stuff
costs so why don't I put it where it does the most good and you start using
triangle shapes instead  of full covering.  Next you beat your head on the
wall and say but if I used a spar I could cut down even more.  At this point
you would be trading your time for the cost

Next point of confusion is shall I make the wing two or three piece.  Two
piece is easier but not as easy to transport.  Ever try to get a 3m one
piece to the field and back. I was forced to a three piece wing though a
truck accident.  Newer truck could only be the short one.  You can't even
put in a one piece 2m.  AW!! but the benefits.  We discovered at the same
time the Conteco guncases at Wal-Mart and now design all planes to fit in
these cases.  Planes last a lot longer with less hanger rash.

But now what shall the lay-up be.  Haven't a clue.  So I used the typical
spar I was using with the pass of heavy cloth at the middle of the mid
section to cover the wing hold down dowels and then another Band-Aid at both
sides of the two joints.

By the way when handling the heavy cloth cut it at forty-five degrees to
prevent a raveling mess.  Wasteful but much easier.

Now isn't this a confused mess of an answer to a simple question!!

Rick



--

"Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2000 18:44:48 EST
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Bias layup schedule question
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To make sure I am understanding correctly -

When laying up glass cloth on a bias (bagged wing) does this mean the cloth
orientation is 45 degrees to the span?

If using three layers of cloth per skin (top and bottom) what would be the
strongest layup schedule in simple terms?

TIA,

Bill Gillis
Reno, NV"


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[RCSE] 45 degree cut of cloth- strength improvement

2000-01-10 Thread Richard Hallett

If I turn a standard cloth 45 degrees I am supposed to be able to add some
to the strength.  So using Kevlar or glass in a round boom approximately
how much have I changed it by turning and cutting the fabric at 45 degrees.

When I broke it because the ground came up and smacked it it was interesting
to note that in the straight direction (not 45 degrees) the break was a nice
little ring around the whole fuselage boom.  So I kept what I had and added
more fabric at the points where I had proven it was needed by this stress
testing.  I think I could either make it much stronger or use a layer or two
less if I cut the fabric at 45 degrees.  This of course assumes the fabric
is the same in both directions.

Thankyou.

Rick

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[RCSE] Dear Winchdoc

1999-12-14 Thread Richard Hallett

I am glad that you are concerned about my health.  But actually I am getting
along well.  You should really be much more concerned about their health
than mine.

But I am curious about this bit about how hard I am supposed to work.  I
work just as hard as ever if I am not on one of those dying batteries or one
of those diet batteries.  Those guys can be pretty pathetic.  I have noticed
though that some of my friends have a couple of strange quirks.

First I would like to point out that most of them are hot under the collar
most of the time.  I really can't tell maybe they are running a fever.
Sometimes they look half drunk the way  they walk too; going side to side
and up and down.  Too bad too cause I know they could do much better if you
would only help them too.

I noticed you say that they can't work as long   but don't be harsh on them
they are doing their best. I don't know but it seems to me that every time
they work they have to work longer to get the job done.  Maybe that is why
they get tuckered out sooner.

Course if someone had been around watching when I got them real balls you
sent me they would have thought something was wrong with me.  My! I was
feeling my oats!.  I used to have a hard time getting up and going.  I was
so sprightly I hopped right clean loose of my moorings .  I used to be so
pitiful before that operation that I could be held down with just a small
dab of that eye-watering vinegar smelling glue.  But when I got that
operation I hopped right free of that stuff and graduated to a decent
mounting

I understand Doc you haven't seen any like me.  Course you are probably not
old enough.  I'm the one with the muscle problem you know I am made up of
rectangle muscles and not like my later cousins with round.  I was around
when Henry was young.  I still have one brother here but he is not used much
because he hasn't had the operation yet.  The younger cousins don't see much
use either.  Most of them only have two feet and I have four.  But we are
all old enough to remember working on just hay.  Now they give us oats all
the time.

So you see Doc I am really doing quite well.





--

Date: Tue, 14 Dec 1999 08:07:58 -0800
From: Doug Boyd [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: James R MacLean [EMAIL PROTECTED], [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Update on winch curent and BLATENT PLUG
Message-ID: AD1DA646FC8BD311A24F009027BBDC3711CD46@NTS-MAIL2

 -Original Message-
 From: James R MacLean [SMTP:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
 Sent: Saturday, December 11, 1999 7:13 PM
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Subject: [RCSE] Update on winch curent

SNIP
  Today I got to test the system with a friend's
 winch launching high performance 2 meters and my 3 meter Condor. The
 currents ranged from 220 to 300 amps. This is about 1/2 to 1/3 of the
 previous measurements. The error source is not known but possibilities
 are as follows: the previous meter was sitting on the high current wire
 and magnetic coupling could have played a role.  The winch was not the
 same and there could be something wrong with the other winch.
SNIP

Could the second winch have been equipped with "Real Balls"?
I would really like to see more tests in a before"RB" after"RB"
So far we have seen a modest 20% reduced current draw.

"Real Balls" ball bearing end plates for the Ford Longshaft starter
motor are in stock!
(for now, they are going fast.)
For more info check out my website

http://members.xoom.com/winchdoc/

Thanks,

The Winchdoctor



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[RCSE] happy wives

1999-09-01 Thread Richard Hallett

Maybe he means you should buy your wife a new glider. (But I doubt it)


 In a message dated 9/1/99 2:41:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

  "He who spends more on his wife than he does on
 his airplanes, will fly more than the poor fellow
 who fails to apply this principle."
   

 Gee Dave,

 I can barely afford to by my hobby as it is.  If spent a bunch money on my
 wife I'd never be able to buy a new plane.

 See Ya,

 Pat McCleave


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[RCSE] Winch parachutes

1999-09-01 Thread Richard Hallett

In addition to what Fritz says in the following this is the only kind to
have for retrieving through bushes weeks etc when the ground is not perfect.
An open chute will open up and catch but these will slide through.

I like the ones Mike Lachowski, our faithful moderator sells. He's at
[EMAIL PROTECTED] and has a web page at
http://www.eclipse.net/~mikel/

They have a net instead of shroud lines that tangle, and
last at least 3 to 4 times through the turnaround or retriever
wheel before being pulled apart.

-Fritz

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[RCSE] Vacuum switches

1999-08-24 Thread Richard Hallett

Use a foam dense enough to be able to take full vacuum.   Using a
refrigerator pump turn the pump on and leave it on.

If you don't leak gobs of air into it it will run forever that way.  If you
run a lot of wet air into it it will soon turn the original oil acid and
bye-bye windings.  Let it run full bore wet air into itself and guaranteed
it will be dead in a much shorter time than 48 hours even brand new.  You
will only leak as much oil out of it in proportion to the size of the leak.
No air leak no oil loss.

Rick

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