Re: Osmotor

[Mike Chaney]

Geoff Spenceley wrote:-

> By filling the the boiler via the goodall valve and giving a shot of
butane
> at the same time (I know -a NO-NO!!) I was able to keep the engine steamed
> indefinitely.. As a defense, the burner was a long way from the butane
tank
> --anyway I never had an accident.

I have a theory - not yet tested, because I can't be bothered - that it's
most unlikely that a correctly adjusted "centre flue" type of burner would
ignite spilled gas as the flame is confined within the boiler.

Would anyone care to test this theory?

Mike Chaney (safely encased in asbestos suit)
 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[M. Paterson]

Once again it may sound crazy, i found steam oil
through a neighbor who in turn worked the local yard
in the east bay and San Francisco. It may be that the
oil was availble as we have steams that come through
the area on special occasions, In addition we have a
steam operation in the Niles Canyon area and one down
in Felton. I did not imply that steam oil was in every
yard or maintenace area but there are exceptions.
mp  

--- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern
> Standard Time, 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> 
> > As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
> >  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have
> cans of
> >  steam oil still lying around and if you take a
> pint
> >  jar they will give it away.  
> I worked for Conrail and prior to that for the
> Lehigh Valley RR for over 
> twenty years. In all that time I never saw a drop of
> steam cylinder oil 
> anywhere. What would you think they were using steam
> cylinder oil for on 
> today's railroads? If anything comes close to steam
> cyl. oil it's used in 
> antique cars. Model T Fords use SAE 600w oil in the
> differential, not quite 
> steam oil, less sulfur added, but the right
> viscosity.
> 
> Keith Taylor - In sunny Maine! 
> 
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RE: STEAM OIL (was Ruby tips (was New list member))

[Gary Broeder]

>A while back there was an article in (I think) Modeltec about using pure 
>castor oil in place of steam oil.  Anyone remeber the article?  Anyone ever 
>used the stuff? (for steam engines, I mean)
>
>Casey Sterbenz

Fellows,

I read about the use of castor oil in the G1MRA Newsletter about a year ago. Seems 
that it works quite well as 
a member did some tests and notes increased proformance. I will look it up and report 
back. GaryB 

STEAM OIL (was Ruby tips (was New list member))

[Casey Sterbenz]

A while back there was an article in (I think) Modeltec about using pure 
castor oil in place of steam oil.  Anyone remeber the article?  Anyone ever 
used the stuff? (for steam engines, I mean)

Casey Sterbenz


>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Subject: Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)
>Date: Wed, 1 Mar 2000 18:03:10 EST
>
>In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
>
> > As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
> >  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
> >  steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
> >  jar they will give it away.

__
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Joe Betsko]

Doug,

I am travelling to Philadelphia to do some depositions, Thursday and
Friday.  If you work in Center City Philadelphia, I might be in a
position to help you out.

Let me know tonight.

Definitely wait for steam oil!

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:
> 
> << .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
>  > there anything I can >>
> Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I
> would but it is a long ways from Oregon.

-- 
Regards,
Joe Betsko
Pennsylvania USA

Bala Cynwyd Railway:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net
Primer for Novice Live Steamers:  http://jsb.pennsy.home.att.net/tips.html

iMac - Hey, I don’t do windows! 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Doug]

Thanks for the thought, Someone has already volunteered to send me some.


[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:
> 
> << .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
>  > there anything I can >>
> Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I
> would but it is a long ways from Oregon. 

Little People

[SALTYCRABB]

Pat et al

There is a brand called "Just Plain Folk" available at many hobby shops and 
also Watts Train Store (online).  There is a wide variety and they sell for 
around $4 each.
Alternately they are available from Track N Trains, Inc 111 West Broad 
Street, Palmyra NJ 08065.

Be of good cheer and Steam with care!

Jim Crabb
Houston 

Bio

[PATRICK DARBY]

Well I guess it's time I took some time for a bio.

   My name is Pat Darby, 57 years old, and I live near Covington, LA
with wife Marlene and three canine mutts. Covington is about 40 miles north
of New Orleans and 50 miles from Diamondhead, MS.  I have always been
interested in trains of all types, especially steam trains.  My interest
started with the usual Lionel O gauge electric sets as a kid, but lost
interest during my teen years and college.
 I can still remember the huge roundhouse and mountains of coal on North
Claiborne Ave. in New Orleans when I was a kid although I never got to look
inside.
   My interest was rekindled in small scale live steam about 3 years ago
while surfing the net and ran across Vance Bass' web site. I was immediately
fascinated with the wealth of information Vance had gathered on SS live
steam.  I learned that I had just missed the 1997 steamup at Diamondhead but
I started collecting all the information I could get my hands on.  I was
hooked!!
 I bought my first engine, Roundhouse Sandy River from Paul Kenny at
Bayou Limited, Houma, LA.  It was a big jump for a first engine but after
reading all the engine reviews I could find, the Sandy River seemed to be
the best for the money( remember there was no Ruby or Sammie then).  Also I
did want an American outline engine. My hunch was right, it ran great from
the get-go and gets better every time I run it.
 Since then I have purchased a Geoff-built Backwoods shay, Aster Western
Maryland Shay kit, Aster Mikado, and at Diamondhead 2000 I found a mint
unsteamed Aster Climax to which I am doing some modifications in the smoke
box. As you can see I'm partial to geared engines (gearhead).
 I have a dual elevated track layout in the woods near the house. It's a
kidney shaped oval about 175 feet around the loop. Two removable bridges
allow access to the interior of the loop.  Height off the ground ranges from
30" to about 40" to keep everything level
   I am almost finished the BAGRS project loco with modifications by
John Thomson per his articles in SITG.  If anyone is building the BAGRS loco
I  recommend these mods, but do the mods before you solder the boiler, if
possible, since a few of them require additional soldering to the boiler top
and stack. I like to build projects but am not a machinist or master model
builder so they won't win any prizes but they are fun to build and run.
   And that's what it's all about.
PAT DARBY
TIMBER & TALLOW BRANCH RR
COVINGTON, LA
 

Great Find

[SaltyChief]

   After months of searching I just found and bought a small Atlas lathe that 
is in excellent condition.  It is a small one with about a 7"daimeter swing 
and 10" length. It has a 3 jaw and a 4 jaw chuck with a drill chuck in the 
tail stock plus it has all the metal gears that came with it.   This ought to 
be just the ticket for all the little locomotive parts.  As soon as I can get 
it set up I will be able to tell how well it works, if not good I think I can 
sell it for more than what I paid for it.   Now if I could just find a small 
mill for about the same price.  Patience does have its rewards. 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 17:28:59 EST, you write:

<< .Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
 > there anything I can >>
Isn't there anyone close to this guy who could spare a little steam oil?  I 
would but it is a long ways from Oregon. 

Re: soldering boilers (was Potomac Industries)

[VR Bass]

> I have a 1 pound roll of Kester "44" Rosin Core 66", wire diameter 0.015, 
> 95Sn/5Ag solder.  I am interested in using it in model engineering and would 
> like to know the characteristics and properties of this solder.  My 
> alternative, is to use silver solder which obviously provides a much stronger 
> bond.  However, for medium to low strength bonding how does this solder with 
> 5% silver compare to traditional  tin/lead solders.  Any technical 
> information would be appreciated (Kester never responded to my e-mail).

I have found some info on the web, and suggest you search for 
"solder" and "strength".

For example:
TypeSn63Silver-bearing  
(no % listed)   
Yield Strength (ksi)4.384.86

A little better, but not a whole lot.

KappTec claims to be almost as strong as silver solder, but flows at 
a much lower temp.  Beware, though, as it's 95% Cadmium, the 
vapor from which will go straight to your testicles and do things you 
don't want done to them.

I didn't find a yield strength for silver solder (or silver brazing, as it's 
also correctly known) but I'm sure there's one out there somewhere.

-vance- 

Re: soldering boilers (was Potomac Industries)

[Michael Martin]

I don't want to belabor this point, but I feel compelled to speak up on this
one.  It is agreed that a joint that has been _properly_ silver soldered is
considerably stronger than a joint that has been soft soldered.  However,
this brings up two points:

1.  It has been demonstrated empirically that the Midwest boiler, when soft
soldered, is a safe and reliable pressure vessel.  The potential additional
strength of silver solder is not warranted and would far exceed the material
strength of the boiler components.

2.  Due to the extremely thin materials used in the construction of the
boiler, overheating of the parent material is very difficult to avoid unless
you are a highly experienced worker.  This could cause a significant
weakening of the entire structure.

I can not recommend the use of true silver solders in the construction of
this particular boiler.  The use of a 4% or 5% silver bearing solder (still
classified as a soft solder) is fine, as the temperature requirements are
much lower.

I hope this sheds some light on the subject.

VR Bass wrote:

> That's actual silver solder, so your boiler should be quite sturdy.
>
> -vance-



--
Michael Martin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

Re: CYLINDER DRAIN VALVES

[Clark Lord]

Yes they have.  Kevin O'Connor has done so.  See the photo's on pages 26
& 27 in issue 54 (January/February 2000) of Steam in the Garden
magazine.  This does require disassembly of the engine and some
machining skills to produce.  Each end of the a cylinder has a hollow
brass fitting that extends into the cylinder.  The bottom of the fitting
has a cross piece that blocks or unblocks that hole.  By pushing the
cross piece one way both ends of the cylinders are open to the air. 
Pushing the other way closes the cylinder drains.

CBL

Casey Sterbenz wrote:
> 
> Friends,
> 
> Has anyone tried installing cylinder drain valves on an engine as small as
> Ruby?  I get a little antsy about shoving Ruby back and forth at startup
> time to work the condensate out of the cylinders.  I'm afraid that forcing
> the water out of the cylinders and through the valves like that might break
> something.
> 
> Casey Sterbenz
> __
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
> 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Clark Lord]

Nice tips Vance.  Well within most of our abilities.  Hey I might even
apply them to my stock Ruby.  BTW My second Ruby that went to Lou
Banning now sports your cab, a leftover C-16 cow catcher, a Lionel
trailing truck, several Trackside Details parts, and a new paint job.  
It's pretty spiffy.

CBL

VR Bass wrote:
> I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait,
> though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up
> with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without
> any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.
//snip//
> regards,
>   -vance- 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> I got a little lost when you got
> into stack talk, and then the plug for the hole in to dome.  Do you have
> pictures of these and other mods such as the superheater?

Doug, et al.,

I made some quick drawings of the exhaust resonator and the 
steam dome plug and put them on the "Things to do with Ruby" 
page:   
While I was at it, I also put a little bit about my Ruby on there, too.

I haven't put a superheater on mine, since the trick I mentioned in 
the previous note seems to have worked fine for me.  (That was 
strapping the steam line to the bottom of the boiler with the boiler 
bands.)

You're right -- the whistle is just ornamental, as are the pop valves.  
Their only purpose is to look more like what you'd see on a 
locomotive than that half-inch hole gaping in the top of the stock 
dome.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: soldering boilers (was Potomac Industries)

[WKuehsel]

In a message dated 3/1/00 2:33:32 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:

<< >   My Midwest kit instructions recommend Stay-Brite 4% silver solder
 > which I called "silver solder".
 
 That is still soft solder, usually called "silver-bearing solder" to 
 distinguish it from solder in which silver is a major component.
  >>

I have a 1 pound roll of Kester "44" Rosin Core 66", wire diameter 0.015, 
95Sn/5Ag solder.  I am interested in using it in model engineering and would 
like to know the characteristics and properties of this solder.  My 
alternative, is to use silver solder which obviously provides a much stronger 
bond.  However, for medium to low strength bonding how does this solder with 
5% silver compare to traditional  tin/lead solders.  Any technical 
information would be appreciated (Kester never responded to my e-mail).

Thanks,

William Kuehsel 
Cold Spring, NY  

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[Ktaylorlv]

In a message dated 3/1/2000 5:28:59 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

> As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
>  railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
>  steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
>  jar they will give it away.  
I worked for Conrail and prior to that for the Lehigh Valley RR for over 
twenty years. In all that time I never saw a drop of steam cylinder oil 
anywhere. What would you think they were using steam cylinder oil for on 
today's railroads? If anything comes close to steam cyl. oil it's used in 
antique cars. Model T Fords use SAE 600w oil in the differential, not quite 
steam oil, less sulfur added, but the right viscosity.

Keith Taylor - In sunny Maine! 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[M. Paterson]

As crazy as it may sound, check with your local
railroad maintenance yard.  Many of them have cans of
steam oil still lying around and if you take a pint
jar they will give it away.  
mp

--- reefman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Not really, it's dark outside when I get home from
> work, and I'm working
> 12-16 hours a day right now.  We are installing new
> MRP software, and
> things are not going well.  So, unfortunatly, Ruby
> will wait till
> saturday...Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is
> there anything I can
> use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  
> Thanks,
> Doug
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you
> write:
> > 
> > <<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to
> fire her up this weekend.
> >   >>
> > Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be
> dragging the UPS driver to
> > my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 
> 
__
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Re: New list member.

[M. Paterson]

Before you do anything, go through the mechanism and
tighten every screw. There have been several reports
of cams etc moving because the screws either were not
tight originally or backoff in transit. Take your Ruby
and put a set of blocks under the front and back
bolsters.  You want the engine drivers to be off of
the surface or rails. It is easier to learn the
necessary adjustments etc with a stationary engine
rather than chasing around the track. Add fuel, water
and displacement oil and fire her off. Start off with
75cc of water rather than the 80cc recommended.
Initially I did not fully fill the fuel tank as I
wanted to make sure that I ran out of fuel before I
ran out of water. The engine will spit oil-water out
the stack so be prepared (have a rag handy) do not
lean too close.   Being in PA you will have alot of
condensation in the cylinders unless the temp is above
50F, even then you will throw condensation. The Ruby
requires a break-in period, The engine should run
better with each new firing.
Happy steaming.

--- Doug <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her
> up this weekend. 
> Looks very well built.
> Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes
> that need to be made?
> This is my first live steamer.  I'm in Eastern PA.
> Doug
> 
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > Currently I'm looking the way of the Ruby.  I
> don't car for the
> > inside-to-outside valve gear on the Sammie.  I
> like somewhat complicated
> > things.  ;)  I feel it gives the loco a more
> realistic look as well.
> > 
> > On Tue, 29 Feb 2000 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > 
> > > In a message dated 00-02-29 20:03:38 EST, you
> write:
> > >   You might want to take a look at the Ruby it
> seems to be a pretty good
> > > starter.  There is also the Roundhouse Sammy but
> it costs two times as much.
> > > I started with a Cricket(no longer being made)
> and have ordered a Ruby to be
> > > delivered asap.  Of course if you have real deep
> pockets you can get an Aster
> > > Catalog and order one of each. :-)  Seriously I
> would recommend buying an
> > > Aster Catalog for all the great information that
> the back section has on
> > > steam locomotives.
> > >
> > > Welcome to the hobby from another newcomer
> > > Lloyd
> > 
> > Trot, the fox whith half and eye for detail...
> (and 1.5 eyes for cost)
> > 
> >  TrotFox  \ Always remember,  
> /\-/\
> > AKA Landon Solomon \ "There is a  ( o
> o )
> > [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative." 
> >\./<
> > 
> 
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Cricket, was Re: Osmotor

[Peter Foley]

At 12:06 PM 00-03-01 -0500, SaltyChief wrote:

>I really get a kick out of mine, but I wish it had a little longer run time.  
>At best I have coaxed 15 minutes out of it.  I noted that the type A shown in 
>the picture has a different exhaust than the one I have.  

Even found a prototype for it!  Look at:

http://members.xoom.com/gearedsteam/home.htm

under John F. Myers Machine Co.

regards,

pf 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is there anything I can
> use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  

Doug, If there's no one in your city you can beg some from, then call 
Sulphur Springs Steam Models TONIGHT and get them to send you 
some steam oil right away.  Have them send it two-day express 
delivery if you have to.  Don't run the engine without steam oil.  (And 
don't wait until the Saturday after next to start having fun!)

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Not really, it's dark outside when I get home from work, and I'm working
12-16 hours a day right now.  We are installing new MRP software, and
things are not going well.  So, unfortunatly, Ruby will wait till
saturday...Plus, and I have no steam oil yet.  Is there anything I can
use instead of steam oil, or in place of it??  
Thanks,
Doug

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:
> 
> <<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend.
>   >>
> Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be dragging the UPS driver to
> my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[reefman]

Vance,
Thanks for the tips.
I followed you on most of them, but I got a little lost when you got
into stack talk, and then the plug for the hole in to dome.  Do you have
pictures of these and other mods such as the superheater??  I assume the
whistle you are referring to as an add-on to the dome is
non-functioning??
Thanks Vance, appreceiate the info.
Doug


VR Bass wrote:
> 
> > I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend.
> 
> I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait,
> though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up
> with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without
> any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.
> 
> > Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes that need to be made?
> 
> Watch out for the O-ring which seals the gas tank filler.  If
> misadjusted it will leak gas and/or crack.  And most of them seem
> to come misadjusted.  It can be totally removed if you seal the
> threads of the filler valve with LocTite or Teflon tape.
> 
> Inspect and adjust (as necessary) the reversing valve piston.  There
> is a scribed line on the piston which should be right at the edge of
> the valve body when the Johnson bar is set for mid-gear.  If not, your
> engine will run better in one direction than the other.
> 
> All little steamers have hydraulic lock problems when they are fired
> cold.  This is because the cold cylinders condense the steam into
> water, which doesn't flow through the ports like steam does.  Piston
> valves (like Ruby has) are a little worse than D-valves (like on a
> Roundhouse).  You'll have to push the loco by hand a little, with the
> throttle open and oily water spewing up the stack, until the cyinders
> warm and the engine will run.
> 
> The steam line just hangs down under the boiler, which also
> contributes to condensation problems and loss of efficiency.   Make
> some new boiler bands about 1/4" longer than the originals, and
> use them to clamp the steam line to the underside of the boiler.
> This simple change helps quite a bit in my experience.  Or, you can
> make a superheater and attach it in between the steam line and the
> line leading to the reversing block.
> 
> Tighten all the screws and nuts, perhaps securing them with LocTite
> as well.  You'll need metric sockets for this, which you can make
> from metric hex-head screws.  (Thanks to Clark Lord for this
> suggestion.)
> 
> To get more stack talk, cut off the exhaust tube at the mid-line of the
> smokebox, and drop over it a 3/8" brass tube with a slot or mouth
> cut at the same level.  It should be about 4" long, but different
> lengths should give different effects.  Experiment.
> 
> Replace those pathetic brackets on the end beams with Ozark
> Miniatures pockets or link-and-pin couplers from Ozark or Hartford
> products.
> 
> If you add radio control, be sure that the throw of the reversing rod
> stays the same as it was with the Johnson bar.  Best method is
> probably to remove the stop screw from the bar and connect the
> servo to operate the Johnson bar.
> 
> Some cosmetic stuff:
> 
> Make a plug for the steam dome: chuck some 1/2" brass rod in
> your drill or lathe and file or turn 1/2" on the end down to about
> 15/32", so the rod is a tight slip fit in the big hole in the steam
> dome.  Drill a 1/8" hole down the middle, about 1/2" deep.  Drill 6
> 1/16" holes equally spaced around the central 1/8" hole.  Cut off a
> 1/4" piece of this rod, and silver-solder a brass whistle and two
> brass pop-valve castings into three of the holes.  Blacken the plug
> and polish the whistle and valves.  This gives you a plug which
> carries your steam appliances in the top of the dome, as on the
> prorotype, but still lets the safety valve do its job.
> 
> Replace the cheesy side tanks with more prototypically made tanks
> (side or saddle).  There's a plan for a saddle tank on my web site:
> 
> 
> Replace the cheesy metal cab with a FH&PB wood cab kit.  (Low-
> key commercial plug. :-)
> 
> That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention,
> folks?
> 
> regards,
>   -vance-
> 
> Vance Bass
> Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
> Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
> 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:

<<  I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend. 
  >>
Now here is a guy with self control.  I would be dragging the UPS driver to 
my track to witness the first run.!!! :-) 

Re: Ruby tips (was New list member)

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-03-01 14:35:09 EST, you write:

<< That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention, 
 folks? >>
Vance--
 You forgot to tell him to buy your cab kit  (he he he)  :-)

(this is not a comercial plug as I have no financial interest in the cab kits) 

Ruby tips (was New list member)

[VR Bass]

> I received my Ruby yesterday, can't wait to fire her up this weekend. 

I'm sure you're going to have a lot of fun with her!  Don't wait, 
though.  It will help get things running smoothly if you prop her up 
with blocks under the end beams and run her several times without 
any load.  Put down plenty of newspaper, though.  She dribbles.

> Anyone have tips on what to look for, or changes that need to be made?

Watch out for the O-ring which seals the gas tank filler.  If 
misadjusted it will leak gas and/or crack.  And most of them seem 
to come misadjusted.  It can be totally removed if you seal the 
threads of the filler valve with LocTite or Teflon tape.

Inspect and adjust (as necessary) the reversing valve piston.  There 
is a scribed line on the piston which should be right at the edge of 
the valve body when the Johnson bar is set for mid-gear.  If not, your 
engine will run better in one direction than the other.

All little steamers have hydraulic lock problems when they are fired 
cold.  This is because the cold cylinders condense the steam into 
water, which doesn't flow through the ports like steam does.  Piston 
valves (like Ruby has) are a little worse than D-valves (like on a 
Roundhouse).  You'll have to push the loco by hand a little, with the 
throttle open and oily water spewing up the stack, until the cyinders 
warm and the engine will run.

The steam line just hangs down under the boiler, which also 
contributes to condensation problems and loss of efficiency.   Make 
some new boiler bands about 1/4" longer than the originals, and 
use them to clamp the steam line to the underside of the boiler.  
This simple change helps quite a bit in my experience.  Or, you can 
make a superheater and attach it in between the steam line and the 
line leading to the reversing block.

Tighten all the screws and nuts, perhaps securing them with LocTite 
as well.  You'll need metric sockets for this, which you can make 
from metric hex-head screws.  (Thanks to Clark Lord for this 
suggestion.)

To get more stack talk, cut off the exhaust tube at the mid-line of the 
smokebox, and drop over it a 3/8" brass tube with a slot or mouth 
cut at the same level.  It should be about 4" long, but different 
lengths should give different effects.  Experiment.

Replace those pathetic brackets on the end beams with Ozark 
Miniatures pockets or link-and-pin couplers from Ozark or Hartford 
products.

If you add radio control, be sure that the throw of the reversing rod 
stays the same as it was with the Johnson bar.  Best method is 
probably to remove the stop screw from the bar and connect the 
servo to operate the Johnson bar.

Some cosmetic stuff:

Make a plug for the steam dome: chuck some 1/2" brass rod in 
your drill or lathe and file or turn 1/2" on the end down to about 
15/32", so the rod is a tight slip fit in the big hole in the steam 
dome.  Drill a 1/8" hole down the middle, about 1/2" deep.  Drill 6 
1/16" holes equally spaced around the central 1/8" hole.  Cut off a 
1/4" piece of this rod, and silver-solder a brass whistle and two 
brass pop-valve castings into three of the holes.  Blacken the plug 
and polish the whistle and valves.  This gives you a plug which 
carries your steam appliances in the top of the dome, as on the 
prorotype, but still lets the safety valve do its job.

Replace the cheesy side tanks with more prototypically made tanks 
(side or saddle).  There's a plan for a saddle tank on my web site: 


Replace the cheesy metal cab with a FH&PB wood cab kit.  (Low-
key commercial plug. :-)

That's all I can think of at the moment -- what did I forget to mention, 
folks?

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass
 

soldering boilers (was Potomac Industries)

[VR Bass]

>   My Midwest kit instructions recommend Stay-Brite 4% silver solder
> which I called "silver solder".

That is still soft solder, usually called "silver-bearing solder" to 
distinguish it from solder in which silver is a major component.

>  I did use 45% silver solder just to be on the safe side

That's actual silver solder, so your boiler should be quite sturdy.

-vance- 

Re: Potomac Industries

[PATRICK L DARBY]

Michael Martin wrote:
>The Midwest boiler DOES NOT (not shouting, just emphasizing!) require
silver
>soldering.  My boiler was built per Midwest's instructions (ie. soft
soldered)
>and has countless hours on it.  There was a day that I let it run dry and
it did
>spring a leak.  (rather uneventful)  It was easily remedied and has
performed
>flawlessly since.  No permanent damage was caused by my failure to fill the
>boiler before lighting the fuel!
>
>--
>Michael Martin

Mike,
 I know you have many more years than I with SS Live Steam and can speak
from lots of experience.
  As I stated originally, I incorporated most of John Thomson's
modifications written up in SITG and one of them is the alcohol burner.
With the added alcohol heat and resultant higher boiler pressure, he
recommends silver soldering the boiler and attachments (also a safety valve
and pressure gauge), and I agree.  I wrote to John and acquired the complete
set of modifications (some not yet written up in SITG).
  My Midwest kit instructions recommend Stay-Brite 4% silver solder
which I called "silver solder".  Maybe you are referring to it as "Soft
Solder".  Since my background is in electronics, I call soft solder the
"radio"  rosin core electronic solder. (Semantics??)
 I did use 45% silver solder just to be on the safe side and also to
acquire some experience at using the higher temp. stuff.  I had no problems
once I got some practice on some scrap copper and brass using a regular
propane torch and flux.
  Anyway, thanks for coming up with this fun project.  I'm sure we who
are building them will steam away happily. O:)

Pat

 

Re: Osmotor

[Geoff Spenceley]

Steamers,
While we are on the subject, one of the nicest two cyl double acting
oscillating engines I have seen (a little different from an osimotor as
each cyl has it's own distribution plate) is the motive power provided by
"Locomotion" for their rail cars. They also provide a reversing valve and
regulator. Most fascinating to me is the vertical boiler and burner which
seems to operate like the old natural gas water heaters. It is  efficient
yet so quiet that the burner cannot be heard--unless one burns one's ear by
putting it down to the base of the boiler!

By filling the the boiler via the goodall valve and giving a shot of butane
at the same time (I know -a NO-NO!!) I was able to keep the engine steamed
indefinitely.. As a defense, the burner was a long way from the butane tank
--anyway I never had an accident.

Would be a wonderful power source for scratchbuilding.--To anyone's
knowledge, has this been done?

Geoff


Lloyd,
>The osimotor (osmotor) is an oscillating cylinder/piston as used on the
>Mamod, Berkeley Crickit, Geoffbuilt Shay, BAGRS Project Loco,  and many
>other small live steam engines.  Cheddar also has them for marine
>applications.  They have no valve mechanisms but rely of the oscillation of
>the cylinder to alternate between steam intake and exhaust.  They are simple
>and cheap to manufacture. I believe osmotor is a copyrighted name for some
>manufacturer of the engine.
>Pat Darby
>Timber & Tallow Branch RR
>Amateur Radio Station K5PAT
>Covington, LA
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 10:05 AM
>Subject: Re: Victory over Steamlines Shay!
>
>
>>In a message dated 00-02-29 07:30:35 EST, you write:
>>
>><< osimotor assembly >>
>> Would someone define this "osimotor assembly" please!!
>>
>>Lloyd
>


 

Re: Little People

[reefman]

LGB, Aristocraft, Lionel and Bachman also put out little people for gage
one.  There was an article recently in GR on making your own figures
from Sculpey, if you have the talent and desire.
Doug

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> 
> There is a company ( PREISER) that puts out nothing but small people and
> animals .
> for all scales . They do have a catalogue.
> 
> Paul
> 

Little People for Gauge 1

[Gary]

One of the largest selections of G-scale accessories is available through SanVal
Hobbies 1 800 423-3281. Ask for "Trains" when they answer the phone. They started out
as an airplane parts company. They have plastic and metal figures available.
Subject: Fw: Flying stories

http://www.trackntrains.com/  has G-scale figures

http://slm_models.tripod.com/   has HEAT RESISTANT  RIGID URETHANE
 figures

There are also cast metal figures available... I couldn't find the ad on my quick
search through Garden Railways

Articles on how to make your own figures from Super Sculpy and other materials
have also appeared in Garden Railways.

Hope this helps Patrick...

PATRICK L DARBY wrote:

> To all:
>  Where is the best place to purchase "Little People" figures such as
> engineers, firemen, MOW workers for Gauge 1?  I have seen them in many of
> the pictures but haven't come across any for sale in magazines and there are
> no hobby shops near me that handle "Garden RR" accessories. Someone told me
> that Bachmann has them but I haven't found them in any Bachmann ad.
> Pat  Darby
> Timber & Tallow Branch RR
> Covington, LA
>
 

Problem Solved

[SaltyChief]

Well guys I figured out how to spring my Ruby purchase on my wife.  Our 
anniversary is here and I told her she should not buy me a gift as I had 
saved her the trouble.  I got  "the look" but not too much flack considering. 
 I bought her a nice tennis bracelet for a gift so that kind of evens things 
out.  I really have to practice a little more restraint.  At least it wasn't 
one of the mega-buck Aster kits. 

Re: Potomac Industries

[Michael Martin]

PATRICK DARBY wrote:

> Lloyd,
>  IMHO it is a really fun project. ...  The Midwest boiler must be silver
> soldered
> together which is the hardest part of the whole project,

The Midwest boiler DOES NOT (not shouting, just emphasizing!) require silver
soldering.  My boiler was built per Midwest's instructions (ie. soft soldered)
and has countless hours on it.  There was a day that I let it run dry and it did
spring a leak.  (rather uneventful)  It was easily remedied and has performed
flawlessly since.  No permanent damage was caused by my failure to fill the
boiler before lighting the fuel!

--
Michael Martin
(Designer of the BAGRS Project Engine)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

 

Little People

[pinecres]

There is a company ( PREISER) that puts out nothing but small people and
animals .
for all scales . They do have a catalogue.

Paul
 

Cricket

[SaltyChief]

I have had some contact with the gentleman that produced these small 
steam locomotives and will inquire of him about the oscilating cylinder 
model.  I get the impression that there were a number of changes made during 
the time that they were produced.  Basically they were all the same, but 
minor improvements were made during thier production run.  It is too bad that 
he could not continue with the only US made engine.
 

Re: Osmotor

[Geoff Spenceley]

Steamers,
While we are on the subject, one of the nicest two cyl double acting
oscillating engines I have seen (a little different from an osimotor as
each cyl has it's own distribution plate) is the motive power provided by
"Locomotion" for their rail cars. They also provide a reversing valve and
regulator. Most fascinating to me is the vertical boiler and burner which
seems to operate like the old natural gas water heaters. It is  efficient
yet so quiet that the burner cannot be heard--unless one burns one's ear by
putting it down to the base of the boiler!

By filling the the boiler via the goodall valve and giving a shot of butane
at the same time (I know -a NO-NO!!) I was able to keep the engine steamed
indefinitely.. As a defense, the burner was a long way from the butane tank
--anyway I never had an accident.

Would be a wonderful power source for scratchbuilding.--To anyone's
knowledge, has this been done?

Geoff


Lloyd,
>The osimotor (osmotor) is an oscillating cylinder/piston as used on the
>Mamod, Berkeley Crickit, Geoffbuilt Shay, BAGRS Project Loco,  and many
>other small live steam engines.  Cheddar also has them for marine
>applications.  They have no valve mechanisms but rely of the oscillation of
>the cylinder to alternate between steam intake and exhaust.  They are simple
>and cheap to manufacture. I believe osmotor is a copyrighted name for some
>manufacturer of the engine.
>Pat Darby
>Timber & Tallow Branch RR
>Amateur Radio Station K5PAT
>Covington, LA
>-Original Message-
>From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: Tuesday, February 29, 2000 10:05 AM
>Subject: Re: Victory over Steamlines Shay!
>
>
>>In a message dated 00-02-29 07:30:35 EST, you write:
>>
>><< osimotor assembly >>
>> Would someone define this "osimotor assembly" please!!
>>
>>Lloyd
>


 

Re: Little People for Gauge 1

[SaltyChief]

 Before I became a "steamer" I had purchaced a couple of Bachmann and LGB 
sets.  These both came with little people as with my Bachmann Shay.  Look in 
Steam in the Garden and Garden Railways for advertisements.  They are out 
there.

Lloyd 

Re: Osmotor

[SaltyChief]

In a message dated 00-02-29 23:47:34 EST, you write:

<< Here's some info on Crickets from the SitG Online website (thanks
 RichF!) . The type E Cricket appears to be a wobbler.
 http://www.steamup.com/sitgonline/roundhouse/berkeley/berkeley.html >>

Well I guess it is a moot point because Berkley is no longer making the 
engines.
I really get a kick out of mine, but I wish it had a little longer run time.  
At best I have coaxed 15 minutes out of it.  I noted that the type A shown in 
the picture has a different exhaust than the one I have.  

Light em up

Lloyd 

Little People for Gauge 1

[PATRICK L DARBY]

To all:
 Where is the best place to purchase "Little People" figures such as
engineers, firemen, MOW workers for Gauge 1?  I have seen them in many of
the pictures but haven't come across any for sale in magazines and there are
no hobby shops near me that handle "Garden RR" accessories. Someone told me
that Bachmann has them but I haven't found them in any Bachmann ad.
Pat  Darby
Timber & Tallow Branch RR
Covington, LA
 

Re: Osmotor

[VR Bass]

> Scott McDonald mentions "oscillating cylinder version also available".
>  Don't know if they actually delivered any, but they were advertised.

I've never seen one with wobblers -- If there were any produced, 
they were rare.

-vance- 

Re: Whistle

[VR Bass]

> I am considering adding a small working steam whistle to my Ruby loco. I
> would like something that would fit in the area below the cab floor.  Does
> anyone know of a source for these things? Thanks for the help!

There aren't any commercially available that I know of.  To get 
something that isn't a steam-powered dog whistle, you need to 
have a Helmholz Resonator type, which is what Larry Bangham has 
described in several Steam in the Garden articles.  These can be 
made in the shape of an air tank, a steam dome, etc.  And they 
sound like REAL whistles -- they're amazing.  (They also consume 
a lot of steam, something the Ruby may not have to offer.)

Check the SitG index at 
 or 
 to find Larry's articles, then 
contact SitG editor Ron Brown <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> to get back 
issues.

regards,
  -vance-

Vance Bass
Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA
Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass 

diesel@erols.com Back Up

[Scott McDonald]

Hi Everybody,

During the past 24 hours my e-mail server was trying to forward messages from
[EMAIL PROTECTED] to the wrong address.  Sorry for the inconvenience.  It
should be back on track and I should be able to receive e-mails.

Thanks,

Scott McDonald


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