Re: oil firing (was firebox Facts!)
Actually, it reminds me of a blowdown muffler I have seen on a few mainline locos. Do the blowdown valves on this loco open out to the sides as per normal? If not they might be piped back to this canister where the noise and velocity of the water can be restricted before letting it fall onto the track through the pink part which would be almost as wide as the rails... Just a thought... it might have been installed to protect the cane..? Really need a photo of it, as opposed to a drawing where the artist could have missed some detail. (no offence intended if you are the artist) Trot, the guessing, fox... On Sun, 27 Mar 2005 17:48:44 -0500, Keith Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: - Original Message - From: Vance Bass [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Multiple recipients of sslivesteam sslivesteam@colegroup.com Sent: Sunday, March 27, 2005 4:53 PM Subject: Re: oil firing (was firebox Facts!) Hey, Keith, Following your good info about coal ashpans, I was reminded of a question I have been unable to answer about the oil-fired model I'm building. The thing has a tank under the oil bunker that I took to be an air tank at first. But on closer examination of the plans, there are two problems with that: no air pump, and little sliding flaps on the ends of the tank. So, clearly, it's not an air tank. -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: no, the list isn't broken ...
Dave, Wonderful to hear the story of a relaxing time. : ] I just realised that it's been months since I made any steam... I really need to get my Ruby fixed and some track on the ground. ; ] Trot, the untimely, fox... -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Sinsheim Foto quiz
White pass Mikado? Just a guess... Trot, the photo-viewing, fox... ; ] On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 09:54:17 EST, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: some of the photos I shot at the Sinsheim live steam meeting are posted on his site This week's quiz: what loco did I use for the background? ;-) Pete -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Off Topic
Oh, don't forget that it's good for your skin! Yes, I am joking... but I do know of people who have used it almost as a hand lotion. : / I understand it can be a decent cleaner so long as you clean it off with something else like kerosene? I think I'll just stick to Formula 409. : ] Trot, the rarely sure, fox... On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 14:21:29 -0500, Keith Taylor [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi Geoff! It's great for that! Just be sure it doesn't get on grandfatheras it may take care of him too! Keith - Original Message - From: Geoff Spenceley [EMAIL PROTECTED] Keith, I use WD40 for weed killer around the track, none ever touches my locos or the grandfather clock! Geoff -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby pony truck
Vance, If you get a responce I'd like to see it myself. I wonder if they have a better way than what I did... Trot, the complex, fox... On Wed, 09 Feb 2005 21:13:32 -0700, Vance Bass [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, Ruby owners, Could I ask one of you who owns a Ruby 2-4-2 and a digital camera to do me a favor, please? I would like to see how Accucraft attaches their pony truck under the cab of the loco. If you would be kind enough to shoot a photo from below and send it to me, I would be most grateful. Thanks! best regards, -Vance- Vance Bass FHPB Railroad Supply Co. 6933 Cherry Hills Loop NE Albuquerque, NM 87111 USA http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass/fhpb/ -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Accucraft SP )^) Colors
oOO I really like the dark blue one... Who wants to get me one for my Birthday? =D Trot, the silly, fox... On Thu, 27 Jan 2005 09:54:11 -0500, Don Plasterer [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I found the answer to my own quwstion. You can find the colors of the various switchers at: http://www.cryergrayfoundry.com/main/locomotive_060_SP_models.shtml Don -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Steam in the garden/online
Paul, They aren't switching servers, they're switching States. The server is in a box making its merry way across half the continent. ; ] Trot, the unworried, fox... On Tue, 11 Jan 2005 08:35:05 -0800, paul gamlin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know if Steam in the garden ,online version is back on line with a different address . I know it was switching servers ? -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Miscellaneous
Pretty slick Donkey! That's the first time I've ever seen one in motion, miniature or otherwise. : ] Makes me wish I lived in CA... Trot, the steamable, fox... On Fri, 8 Oct 2004 20:13:17 -0700, Henner Meinhold [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi, last Sunday I found my old Mamod covered in dust and I decided to reactivate it. My son bought it as a kit 15years ago in London and we added a lubricator and an alcohol burner from Mike Chaney. Somehow it even made it over the big pond. When I tried to look up the pinout of the servo to convert the R/C to US standard, the only hit in Google was an Ebay offer ancient servo(Am I getting old ?)... Anyway, after cleaning and making some new gaskets the beast ran like new, even climbing the 8% grade of my logging line ! It will eventually get a scratchbuilt ceramic burner. Now to something completely different: My friend David made a couple of photos of my finished C_l_i_m_a_x and posted them on his WEB site (Thanks David!): http://www.wegmuller.org/trains/friends/index.html (It takes some time to download all the pictures, if you have a dial-up connection). I will eventually add CAD drawings of some of the parts like engine, boiler and some fittings. And by the way, there are some more goodies on David's site. Regards Henner -- | /\_/\ TrotFox \ Always remember, | ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a | \_/ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: CA glue
When my kitten was front-declawed a few months ago he came back the next day ready to go with no stiches. The digits had been 'glued' closed and he was fine to walk on them although you could tell it was somewhat uncomfortable to do. Made me wonder if they'd used a CA derivative but since I was working and my wife was not I never got to ask the vet. :] Kitten has since learned to let his teeth take over where the front claws used to penatrate! Trot, the fox with the worlds best, smartest, most intelligent kitten! On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote: I was conserned that the No could be interpreted as NO! which it certainly was not. It was intended as a completly informative No with no empaphsis or strenght in its use. I have just used CA quite often though I did cringe a bit with the story of glueing the finger back together. The other night at dinner our six year old daughter did tell us a story about her one friend that fell and cracked her head open. She told me she had to go to the hospital and the doctor glued her head back together. My wife an I laughed but maybe she really did get her head glued back together. Kids are fun. Steve /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Materials compatibility
As an interesting note, I have noticed the same thing on my R/C Ruby. Johnson bar movements have an immediate response though, I suspect due to the much shorter steam lines affected. No superheat installed on this loco yet so all that line has to be filled/heated when the throttle is adjusted. ;] Trot, the fox who wants _real_ valve gear... On Wed, 2 Apr 2003, JR May wrote: Tony D: Fantastic write up. Simply fantastic. I am amazed at how things are the same from full sized down to Gauge 1. Especially the delay or dwell time you talk about. Prior to heading into the curve on the smaller full sized engines we run, you have to give it some throttle or you die in the curve. The shay is the most instantly reactive, our 4-4-0T has the longest dwell.The diesels (25ton and 55 ton GE diesel electrics) are real dogs. Throttle must be provided before hitting the full impact of the curve or there is a noticeable slow down.I believe this is due in part to the time it takes for the relays to kick in as the generator RPMs come up. Very mushy, unless you really give the throttle a pull. Great write up. Many thanks. J.R. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
I asked about an oil burner for gauge 1 on one of the large'er' scale steam lists and was told that the flame path is too long. I guess it's not possible to get the fuel up to temp fast enough that it will all burn in the firebox? Flames going into the tubes is a no-no due to the soot buildup it causes, as I'm sure Clark has experienced. :] I'm wondering if you couldn't run the fuel supply tube through the flame path just prior to entering the burner. That'd provide a lot of preheat and may allow the fuel to vaporize before needing to be burnt... Sort of like the old Colmansp stoves. Oh well, not like I'll ever try it. I like my eyebrows right where they are. ;] Trot, the somewhat adventurous, fox... On Mon, 17 Mar 2003, Phil Paskos wrote: On the 1 and 1-1/2 kerosene burning locos I've seen, they start them by forcing compressed air through the burners to atomize the fuel. This allows simply lighting them with a long match or a metal rod with some wick material soaked in kerosene to get the fire burning. This also forces the draft (drought?) through the engine. Once boiler pressure of about 40 pounds is reached, the air can be discontinued and they fire on their own. Should fire be lost while running an old ford coil feeding a spark plug will reignite them. I'll leave it to the imagination of this group to figure out how to do this on Gauge-1 Locos. I think it could be done. Phil P /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: alcohol vs butane vs white gas
I hope not... I'd have to shun my Ruby!!! Trot, the Insight-driving, fox... ;] Hmmm ... now I'm eyeing my gas-fired locos and wondering if they're the equivalent of gas- guzzling SUVs? Oh, the shame! regards, -vance- /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Accucraft and Aster surveys
That's about $5! No, I didn't leave out any 0's... };] Trot, the budgeted, fox... On Sun, 16 Mar 2003, Harry Wade wrote: They already know the answer to that question . . . . MY favorite locomotive, finely engineered, with detail rendered at or near museum quality, in the fuel of my choice, for no more money than I can successfully hide from or explain away to my spouse. :-) Regards, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Accucraft and Aster surveys
Ya know... that's an angle I hadn't thought of! Makes going bald not so
bad. ;]
Now if only it wasn't all leaving so slowly (going thin all over the top
but not truly bald.)
Isn't 25 too young for serious hair loss? {:]
Trot, the hormone-effected, fox...
On Sun, 16 Mar 2003, FBM Studios wrote:
I would agree - however I keep track of all the hair salon tallies, and
since
I buzz what's left of my hair once a week myself I only see it fair
that I spend the equivalent on an item of my choice. :-)
Viva la hairloss:-)
Cheers Ferdinand
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Leaking Ruby valves?
I can't remember what band it uses but the glitching problem has been solved for the most part. There is now a 1' antenna on the tender made of very thin brass rod. I think the radio is a Futaba 'Attack' three channel... This still doesn't fix the problem which starts with the Ruby though. when I go to reverse, I can't go back forward. ;] Trot, the fox who'll fix it! (one way or the other) On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, FBM Studios wrote: What radios are you using that would cause glitching. (FM,AM, not all brands are created equal?) Cheers Ferd /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: ME threads was Dee parts
I'd prefer to have American standard bit used. things I can easily get a hold of here in north Texas. I have built two 'Lady Anne' chassis kits and can't find spare screws for them here in the US. I'm sure any of the dealers can get them for me but so far it's not been a necessity as I can re-tap or nut/bolt things just as easily. ;] Of course, there's no reason you can't just let the builder know what the basic size of the fastener should be so that they can make their own source and use what they like... is there? Trot, the opinionated, fox... :] On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, XXYZ wrote: Until now I've been ignoring the thread spec on the American project locomotive. It looks like it is a good time to then ask these questions. snipple Ken /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: glitching
I have an RCS'd battery powered sparky and love it. The only thing bad about it is that I can't afford andother reciever at the moment! The next one I get is going in the Ruby though. ;] Trot, the low-budget, fox... (saving for that backyard layout... I mean house...) On Wed, 12 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I don't RC my direction control because of glitching. Dave - smart man. I've had a few concertina pile-ups of hoppers due to my C-16 stopping dead on my ground-level layout. I partially solve the problem by turning off the transmitter, so there aren't any corrupt or marginal signals flying around to confuse the receiver! Have you looked at the RCS version for steam engines? (www.rcs-rc.com) The good news about r/c designed for railroads is that they use command control and only transmit when needed, so the receiver can more easily distinguish noise from signal. I think some transmit the command several times, so the receiver has a really easy time. Clem fitted one to a C-16 and says it works as advertised, and there is a review in SitG this month of a loco with whistle/bell sound effects driven from the RCS receiver. My electric loco with an RCS has never exhibited any glitching. Anyone else had any experience with RCS? /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: glitching
Is this the new RCS system that allows use of a cheaper car-type R/C system, or the complete RCS system? I ask because I've never heard of anyone having glitching problems with an RCS system (not that I've been around that much.) Trot, the curious, fox... On Wed, 12 Mar 2003, paul gamlin wrote: I have had experience with both conventional FM radio control and the RCS units in my backyard the both do not work .the most likely culprit is powerlines running and the back of my house this might be the situation with a lot of people using RC for trains .they mostly located in the back part of the yard. Powerlines are sometimes strong between property lines. In both cases I had severe glitching even with the RCS unit, Paul /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O rings - another question
I think I like it! I had thought on this, but not much given the small clearance involved. I was actually considering going with a two-bolt solution that would remove the protusion completely, replacing it with an oval cap that would hold an o-ring against the face of the cyl cover. Using tiny stainless hardware I think it would give good service so long as you don't wail on it while tightening. ;] I also want to eventually have a crosshead guid of some type that works. :] Don't know when that'll get thought about... Trot, the overly-complex, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Landon, Not a problem, sorry that I didn't make it clear. The gland on the front cover is just the right size to accept a 3/16 x 40 thread. I imagine I did mine on my lathe with a die (can't remember), but with some care you can do it by hand. I made my own gland nut out of 1/4 hex stock. You could also use a union nut from SSSteam part #FUN-3 and drill it for the piston rod. You might have to file some of the nut away so that the piston makes it's full travel. Before you screw the nut in place wrap the rod with graphited yarn; just a single strand. After I have things set to the non leaking stage, I have been putting a dab of super glue on the threads to keep it from loosening. If you go here, I took a picture of mine. Excuse the oil and the peeling paint, she is undergoing test runs at the moment on the new liquid butane system which is giving me great long runs. http://1stclass.mylargescale.com/BobStarr/Pictures/ruby%20front%20cover.jpg Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O rings - another question
Just as a note... Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses metal to metal seals. Much to my dismay. :( Trot, the fox who's had 'em apart... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Clark Lord wrote: I have engines with both O ring rear cylinder covers (Aster Mikado, Frank S, Ruby) and string packing rear cylinder covers (Aster K4, Schools, Americanized /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Leaking Ruby valves?
Anyone else seen this? Mine seem to be leaking by on one event. I haven't determined which one it is yet but it's definately annoying. I get good power for about half a rev then nothing as the steam goes through the stack and right wanna-be-a-gland. I origionally thought the power loss was all due to the leaking cyl cover, then thought it was a split o-ring (we're talking a lot of steam through the stack) but inspection of the piston/bores show no issues. I've pulled the valves out and they are ok so the only thing I can think of is that something has scored the valve-block bore. Anyone happen to know what these run? Is now a good time to start on that Walschaerts geared slide-valve conversion I've been thinking about? Trot, the frustrated, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O rings - another question
Sure it's quality... just don't _ever_ forget to fill the lubricator! (no,
I don't know that from experience, mine leaks even though I've always
filled the luber. :( ) This is something else I'm going to ask my
lathe-weilding friend if I try making slide valves. Real glands!
Trot, the fox who'll make something work. {:]
On Tue, 11 Mar 2003, Clark Lord wrote:
And here I thought Ruby was a quality entry level engine. You just never know
what you are getting these days. VBG
Clark
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O rings - another question
I don't understand how this would be done simply... Can you elaborate? Trot, the interested, fox... On Tue, 11 Mar 2003 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 3/11/03 9:35:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Ruby doesn't have O-ring cylinder covers. It uses metal to metal seals. It is pretty simple to thread 3/16 x 40 and use corresponding 1/4 hex nuts. I wrap graphite yarn in mine, but I still have problems with leaks,; it's just better. Bob /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Wire Drawing?
Sounds pretty clear to me. :) Steam is 'drawn' through the aperture by the lower ambient atmospheric presure. Trot, the phsyics-al, fox... };] On Wed, 19 Feb 2003, Royce Woodbury wrote: If I were to throw my two cents in, I would say that the process of squeezing a big thing through a small hole is, in some circles, called drawing. If it's a wire being forced through a smaller hole, then the wire is drawn to form a smaller diameter wire. If it's a fluid (as in steam), being forced through a small aperture, then the pressure drops, velocity increases until the energy provided by the pressure is equalized, resulting in a maximum through put.. It is, in a sense, drawn through the aperture. Well, it was clear when I started this explanation : ) royce in SB Arthur S. Cohen wrote: /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Where to use copper or fiber washer?
Interesting note... The Texas State Railroad also uses Teflon tape for boiler fittings. One of the Hostlers noted that the tape made such a difference that he wrote to the manufacturer to let them know how impressed he was. He recieved a somewhat suprised reply back stating how the teflon was not intended or known for working in 'high temp' applications! It was then surmised that the teflon was not contributing to seal so much as it was lubricating the treads enough to allow the pipe-fittings to fully engage where they normally would not. :) Just thought this may prove interesting to someone. :] Trot, the volentary, fox... On Mon, 17 Feb 2003, Mike Chaney wrote: Art wrote: This 'Teflon Mike' speaking? I don't think I've ever been called that, although I do use Teflon tape (P.T.F.E. in England) extensively for boiler fittings. Fibre washers - my experience is that they tend to go soggy and collapse if allowed to come into contact with water. Copper washers are beyond my shallow pocket. I use Teflon tape wrapped round the threads of the fitting to make the actual steam/water/oil-tight seal. Where the alignment of the fitting is unimportant as with, for instance, a safety valve or a banjo bolt, nothing more is needed. However, where the alignment matters as with, say, a water level gauge, I make my fittings without the usual flange and continue the thread right up to the body of the fitting, allowing room for a locknut to be fitted. The fitting may thus be screwed in as far as is needed and held in alignment whilst the locknut is tightened. This technique has saved me hours of frustration over the years. Mike /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]
The capacitive sensor I speak of is a proximity sensor that is supposed to be good for a variety of materials. They are adjustable so you'd set it for water in the glass then ensure it changed states when the water went away. I'm now thinking that there may not be enough water mass in a small sight glass to reliably trigger them though. I can't find any info on their sensitivity. If anyone has a DigiKey Catalog they're in the middle of page 989. They're refered to as 'Capacitive Proximity Sensors' and I've seen them used for detecting empty milk cartons by sensing the liquid level. Trot, the researching, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: engineers 'r' us ... [was: 360 Servo conversion [was: R/C question]]
I might be able to offer advice... What'cha got cookin'? {:]
Trot, the semi-audiophilic, fox...
On Sun, 29 Dec 2002, Dave Cole wrote:
all hands:
since it's clear that there are lots of people with useful physics
and engineering info on this list, i pose this question:
is there somebody out there who would like to help me with an
electronics/audio problem **for my live steam layout** (to keep on
topic here)? If so, please contact me directly off-list; there's no
reason to clutter up the list with the to-and-fro of making this
thing work, but if we do, i'll post a note about what it is i'm
working on.
thanks.
\dmc
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: 360 Servo conversion was RE: R/C question
If you're going to go to that amount of trouble you may as well just use a capacitive sensor to detect the actual liquid in the glass. I suspect you could also detect the liquid level optically by depending on the refraction difference of the water though. Trot, the semi-versed, fox... On Tue, 17 Dec 2002, Anthony Dixon wrote: Hi Trent, Sounds good. If you want to go this route. I have seen gas flow meters which comprise a floating ball in a glass tube, which rises or falls according to flow pressure etc. This would seem an ideal method of activating the paint ball electronics eyeball sensor to activate the water feed pump as the ball drops with the water level?. Alternatively, any object floating on the water i.e. polystyrene cube or sheet could be used as the sensor level eyeball target. Or the floating plate itself could be hooked to a mechanical arm i.e. toilet flush water level control, with open/close contact switch to operate the servo pump or preferably to switch a direct drive water feed pump. Using the 6-12 volt fuel pumps for re-fueling model planes or cars. (I think this method may be easier to rig in confined spaces). Just a thought. Tony D. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Fn3
On Wed, 11 Dec 2002, Kevin Strong wrote: If Aristo's proposed live steam loco comes in a box marked LS29, I will be both amazed and highly pleased. Not because it's a much needed low-cost standard gauge steamer, but because it shows that they're demonstrating some commitment to segregating and clarifying their large scale offerings which by then will be available in _three_ scales - 1:29, 1:24, and 1:20.3. Interestingly (to me) that box would need to be labeled LS20 as Lewis mentioned on his board that the loco will be a 3'er. I had hoped for a mainline loco, but I will have to continue waiting for that. ;] Trot, the fox who'll end up with an American project yet... };] /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Dallas over the holiday
I have yet to find anything steam-related here that's not a home-office setup. If you come across something let me know! Of course, there's Discount Model Trains for a great railroad selection but they don't have any live steam... :( They're in Adison if you decide to check them out. Trot, the fox who's finally getting some cool weather. (freeze warnings tonight =D ) On Tue, 26 Nov 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hi All, I will be taking my family to Dallas over the Thanksgiving holiday. Is there anything steam / railroad related to be seen? Hobby shops, museums, steamups, etc.? Thanks, Mitch Nearhood /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Suspension [was; Re: Boxpok driver model preview]
That's what I've been planning for some sparkies I'm modifying but I thought I'd look into using springs while I was at it. I suppose it'd work ok if you just built the springs with the intention that they wouldn't do the job anyways. :] So far I've only made a Bachmann 10 wheeler such that the front axle can rock and stay on the rails. Those things are actually only 4-4-0's anyway. ;] That middle set is like some odd jackshaft arrangement... Roundhouse steamers are built the same way and I've given some thought to doing the same with mine. However, I currently don't feel I have the experience or machinery to do the job right. For that reason I'm sticking to plastic for all my suspension experiments... I'll play with metal when I get (at least) a drill-press. ;] Trot, the semi-prototypical, fox... On Mon, 28 Oct 2002, VR Bass wrote: All those drawbacks of scaling springs is why a lot of modelers prefer equalization without springing. This is done in scales as small as H0 and it's not really that difficult from what I've seen (I haven't done it myself yet). regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Suspension [was; Re: Boxpok driver model preview]
This is something I've been curious about for a while now. Why are real springs too strong? Are our locos not heavy enough or is it a problem with the volume of metal used in the springs? Could real leaves be made with hollow sections? I know it'd be a lot of work but this is just for the sake of understanding... Is there not some lighter metal that could be used, or do they get too malleable at the 'correct' flex range so that they'd be easily bent? Curious foxes want to know! Trot, the fox who's not a rivit counter, really..! On Mon, 28 Oct 2002, Jeanne Baer wrote: I would definitely spring the drivers. Even in gauge 1 the engine will run much happier with springing. Equalizing is something else again. It's complex and fiddly (especially if you equalize across the chassis as well as on each side) and won't get you much for your trouble compared to the gains from simple springing. Also, you cannot get the exact prototypical look using leaf springs. If you copy the full size exactly, the springs are too stiff. To correct that you can go undersize with the leaves and pack the stack. But then you've lost the look. Dummy leaf springs with concealed coils doing the actual work are a pretty good compromise. If you want something good for beginners, I would not use SS for the drivers. It can be too frustrating to machine. Also, if I hadn't done quite a bit of casting I would stay with aluminum and zinc (or other low temp white metals). These, however, need a tire shrunken on and so another job. Only if I wanted a really big project would I try brass and cast iron rather than have them commercially done. Victor Lacy /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: boiler insulation
Hey, at least Grits are made of corn. ;] Just coat it with sugar and butter and feel your arteries thank you. Wonder if we could pour it into the air-space between a boiler and it's wrapper? :] Trot, the fox who's only joking... about the pouring... On Wed, 2 Oct 2002, mart.towers wrote: Weetabix packet? USA translation Please. Weetabix - a kind of dessicated, compressed, wheat grain residue, sold in briquette form. In comparison, the southern US 'grits' are a sophisticated highly palatable breakfast cereal. Art Walker /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: American project?
I'd just like to put a vote in for 1:32 or at worst 1:29th scale. If I want a NG engine of the American type there are plenty available. :] Trot, the picky, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Possible Virus Alert
As further warning... This sounds like the Klez virus. It can mask it's from info with any address it finds including yours! I've gotten it from [EMAIL PROTECTED] and other similar addresses as well as friends. It's a really smart program that is really tough to find if you don't catch it before it installs. If you get an unrequested message with attachments be sure you check it before you activate the attachments. Better to delete than to be infected. :] Trot, the not-yet-bitten, fox... ;] On Mon, 30 Sep 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: FYI - my Norton Anti-virus just alerted me to a random (wasn't expecting anything and never received email before) email sent from Brandbright in the UK. It was a forwarded message titled Garden of Eden and file named Rcsn.zip. Forewarned is forearmed! Jim Crabb /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
A suggestion... Re: An American Lady
http://gold.mylargescale.com/TrotFox/pix/Garratt/sideshot.JPG A trailing truck might be a little more natural looking. ;] I really like what you've done so far though. :] loosing the side-tanks and replacing the cab with one of Vance's C-16 jobs and an 8 wheel tender would likely be my next suggestion. Trot, the suggestive, fox... };] /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: JVR C type?
Sooo... Reguarding my previous questions about building my own boiler... Might this be a viable alternative to a locomotive boiler? I still have design info and prelim drawings from conversations with Mike but if this would be simpler for a first timer... I can always make another boiler for the beast later. :] Is there anywhere that one can easily (read; cheaply) get info on setup for these boilers? I imagine all the normal info about heating surface and airflow still counts, but the firebox would surely need more restriction to keep cold air out? Or should I just stop lolly-gaging and start making final drawings for a locomotive boiler? Trot, the squeemish, fox... On Mon, 19 Aug 2002, Sam Evans wrote: JvR designed the B and C with all external joints after a favourite loco developed a leakk internally which try as he might he could not repair. He ended up re-boilering the offending loco. I know this as JvR is a former boss of mine and he was one of two who got me into the live steam hobby. Sam E /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Missing postings from the group
I've just been moving and have nothing to say. No time to play with the
steamer makes Trot a weary fox... {:]
Soon though this will all be alleviated when I get the garage (I have an
attached garage now!) cleaned up enough to lay track around it. The Ruby
will steam again!!!
Trot, the slowly-plodding, fox...
On Tue, 30 Jul 2002, Anthony Dixon wrote:
Where have all the live steamers gone?.
Have not seen much e mail action in last few weeks.
Is everyone going diesel-electric?.
Or everyone out steaming and no problems?.
Tony D.
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: a couple of interesting things
Vance, There are quite a few photos on those pages. None of them are large, but you can see what the locos look like. :) The links to photos are at the bottom of the frames for each loco. They don't really look like any real locos I've seen, but all have the basic shape of real locos. I think I'll stick to the plastic stuff for now, though his prices are certainly decent. ;] Trot, the fox who's gotta put that diesel to work! On Sat, 6 Jul 2002, VR Bass wrote: Manfred Meliset sent me a copy of the March 2002 Garten Bahn magazine from Germany, which has a couple of very interesting articles for us live steamers. The magazine is currently running a scratchbuilding series for a logging mule very similar to the BAGRS Project loco. This one is completely scratchbuilt, however, and includes a ceramic burner. Pull-out pages with full-size drawings are included in the center of the magazine. Second, GB reprinted a review by Peter Jones of a ready-to-run live-diesel switcher (actually, 4-stroke glow-plug) by Barry Reeves (Pilgrim Loco Works). Barry has done several such machines (e.g. Detritus), but as far as I know this is his first commercial one. It sounds very similar to the IP machines that came out a couple of years ago in extremely limited quantities. Here's his web page, courtesy of the 16mm society's links page: http://www.geocities.com/pilgrimlocomotiveworks/ Alas, it has only one, very small photo. regards, -vance- Vance Bass Albuquerque, New Mexico, USA Small-scale live steam resources: http://www.nmia.com/~vrbass /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: fires
According to the fine folks over at MLS it has not yet affected the Durango. The Cumbres and Toltec is being forced to stop opperations though for fear of starting further fires. I believe the Durango is being similarly afflicted. The discussion can be seen here... http://www.myLargescale.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=8334 Trot, the well-connected, fox... On Sun, 23 Jun 2002 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Does anyone know if the forest fires have damaged the LIVE STEAM operations of the Durango Silverton, or any of the other operations in CO or AZ? Have any of our Ga. 1 live steamers been adversely affected? Locally, our fire restrictions have been lifted, 5.75 of rain in one day took care of that! Keep your steam up! Mr. Lunkenheimer associate /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Axle loading thoughts
The whole thing about it only being a 4-wheeler in disguise has already been brought up but no-one has mentioned whether or not the locos are at their traction limits or not. Was the #24 slipping to a stop? If not it may be due to the slightly larger drive wheels which will contribute less torque to the rail for the same piston bore X stroke. Also, the greater weight of the loco may be causing it troubles on that extreme grade. It's the same as pulling a heavier train with roller-bearing wheelsets. ;] Just some thoughts. Trot, the theoretical, fox... On Tue, 4 Jun 2002, Gary wrote: Regarding SRRL #24 pulling far less than Fowler using Roundhouse info from http://roundhouse-eng.com/ Fowler weight according to Roundhouse: weight 3.25 Kg - loco or 1.0833 Kg per axle SRRL #24 weight: weight 4.25 Kg - loco or weight per axle of 1.4167 Kg Both models have three axles or six drive wheels. Therefore normal logic would indicate the SRRL #24 should pull steeper grades than the Fowler since axle loading is higher for #24. Of course the newer Forney weighs in at 3.3Kg with two axles or 1.65 Kg per axle! So, the question is, If Fowler pulls much better than the SRRL #24, why? Gary Lane Eugene, Oregon, USA, earth /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: simple scratch built
Are you in need of assembly plans for the kits? I have instructions for the frames but not for boiler or any of the superstructure. Let me know of you need them scanned/sent to you. :) Trot, the cooperative, fox... On Thu, 23 May 2002, [iso-2022-jp] $B5L@n!!=c(B wrote: Please let me know the plans for making locomotive from Roundhouse kit parts and simple scratch built components. Jun Kitsukawa /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: 1/6 Formula and Exhaust Nozzle
Somewhere I have the information used by Mike Chaney to design his blast
pipes. I'll look it up and copy it to the list when I get home. He goes
into a good bit of detail on setting things up properly. :]
Of course you could always go look at the equations used for Mr. Porta's
designs... However, if you can understand those you're doing better than
me. :( It involves something like Calculus... I think. {:l
Trot, the fox who just likes to look at tha pichers...
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: 1/6 Formula and Exhaust Nozzle
Sealed smokebox is the only way to go! If you get too much draft for you fire (gets blown out or pulled off the wicks) you need to increase the size of your nozzle. This will result in a decrease of backpresure on the engine as well as less draft. Here is a link to the info I have looked at the most. It's beyond my league but there is enough that's understandable that I've gotten the basics. :) I don't think anyone here is going to be producing a 1:20th scale GPCS anyhow. ;] http://www.trainweb.org/tusp/exhaust.html Trot, the studious, fox... On Mon, 20 May 2002, Harry Wade wrote: Is it correct also that these ratios apply to sealed smokeboxes only? The sealed smokebox business is based upon the assumption that the boiler performs better if the draft flows through the firebox and flues so it's a matter of what your fire needs. Again, the geometry is intended to create maximum draft and I don't think it cares where the air comes from or what it does along the way. Normally a fluid is going to follow the path of least resistance so if there's a hole in the smokebox then depending upon its size you have to figure some of the draft is going to be drawn from there. But if 100% of the draft demand isn't satisfied by what's coming through the hole then what's left will be drawn through the flues and if that's enough to satisfy the needs of your fire than a hole in smokebox doesn't matter all that much. Regards, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Micro-steam!
You gotta see it to believe it! http://www.sandia.gov/mems/micromachine/movies8.html http://mems.sandia.gov/scripts/images.asp Trot, the slightly amazed, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Micro-steam!
If you look really closely you can see the return spring near the bottom of the screen move down, then up. It's not fast, nor does it go far, but it does move. =) Now I want to see them build a 1:10,000th scale live-steam Big Boy that's powered from the rails. };] Trot, the slightly-silly, fox... On Sun, 5 May 2002, Geoff Spenceley wrote: Fantastic Landon et al, However, I couldn't get much to move, just a sort of tremble!-- very comforting, reminds me of the way some of my locos steam. Geoff. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: sight glass fittings
I have also seen one of the little 'tea pot' locomotives that had a system like this installed. He knew right when to start pumping water with that. :] I'd like to have something similar but I do not have the boiler constructions skills to make me comfortable drilling holes in my Ruby. ;] Trot, the fox who'll get there, eventually... On Tue, 30 Apr 2002, Phil. Paskos wrote: Rishon Locomotives makes the Mason Bogie that uses LED's for water level control. A member of PLS has one and it works fine. In Sunny weather he does shade the light to make sure he can see it. Phil /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Denver Project Loco Poll
Keep in mind that John Thomson has now built two coal-fired project locos. I've seen them run... they're a hoot! Trot, the easy-fire, fox... On Tue, 16 Apr 2002, Harry Wade wrote: At 03:21 PM 4/16/02 -0700, you wrote: I know I'm dreaming, but being able to coal-fire it would be a kick. Well I don't know about that, this is probably one of the only places in our lives that we can actually indulge a few of our dreams without going bankrupt or being fired (although both are obviously only an Allegheny away for many of us :-), but it would complicate things. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: That Forney is a Fairlie (or a Mason Bogie?)
*Fox clasps his paws over his ears and goes running from the room screaming about some odd pain between the ears...!* Check the Masterclass '02 items on mylargescale.com for lots of info on Mason Bogies. Unless a lot of people are really off base the Bogies are single Fairlies with a few improvements. The two inventors conversed with each other and made improvements to their own locos based on the others work. They were all simple engines and a single fairlie is a one-ended device. ;] The overhead lifting bar was done for the earliest walschertssp valved locos to minimize any errors involved with the bogie going through curves. The Stephenson's valves locos didn't have this. :] Interesting story overall. :) Trot, the fox who's got his nose in multiple net.places... On Fri, 12 Apr 2002, Keith Taylor wrote: I think you've stated the Mason Bogey question fairly, but to an old Fogey it seems that a Fairlie is not a Phoney Bogey but a fairly funny Fairlie Simple, simply! Is a Fairlie Double bogey a fairly simple Mason Double Fairlie Bogey? And just how many seashells did she sell by the seashore, and did they use a Mason Bogey to ship them to the shore?! Keith Taylor, who now has confused himself even more than before! /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: F scale
Ya know...
If you were willing to deal with the same thing that we who run 1:29th car
do you could just re-gauge the wheelsets on these mainline F scalers and
run them on your 2.5 gauge track. ;] The difference wouldn't be _that_
noticable, would it? {:)
Trot, the fox who doesn't care for it himself...
On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Keith Taylor wrote:
I would be much happier if folks had chosen not to create yet one more new
scale and gauge! Of course, this is coming from one of a very small number
of folks who own 2-1/2 gauge locomotives and tracks! Having a new supply of
detail parts, trucks, couplers, headlights domes cutting levers etc. would
have been wonderful! Half inch scale seems to me to be an ideal size for
Live Steaming. You can have an extensive garden layout which doesn't take up
very much more room than gauge one, but it is also big enough to use on an
elevated track to haul human sized loads, and have the thrill of actually
sitting at the throttle of your locomotive! I guess in the USA where bigger
is always better! this is not a popular idea. But right now, as I sit here,
I am gazing up at my 1/2 scale Pennsy K-4 Pacific on the fireplace mantle
piece. It doesn't take up much more room than an Aster would, but I can also
take it outside, during warm weather, and go for a ride behind it, with my
grubby fingers touching the throttle the entire trip! No chasing after it
and tripping over kids, and bottles of water and alcohol. ( I do enjoy that
activity as well!)
But going for a ride is nice as well! Someday, a ground level garden layout
with radio control will also pilot this baby, and seeing it pull a string of
scale freight cars would have been great! Maybe someday, somebody will give
this some thought!
Keith Taylor
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: F scale
Sorry! I was refering to not likeing the 1:29th on 1:32 scale track. :] It's not enough to make me not run it, but it is enough that I can tell the difference. :) Trot, the fox who hath good eyes! On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Keith Taylor wrote: is A-Okay in my book! Just being curious, in your signiture, you say, ... the fox who doesn't care for it himself... Just what is it that you don't care for? Large scales, or steam locomotives? Most model railroad guys seem to be able to enjoy scale models in every scale out there! Even if they don't plan on owning any in that scale, just enjoying the work of others is usually all the incentive needed. Keith, who likes 'em all, Big and Small! /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: F scale
I don't think that's even possible. I'll be a steam nut until the day I die! };] Trot, the enthusiastic, fox... On Thu, 4 Apr 2002, Keith Taylor wrote: Phew! I was worried there that you had lost your interest in steam locomotives! We can't have that now, can we! Keith, who has bad eyes, but still likes to see the right train on the right tracks! /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Coring?
Can someone explain the method used for 'coring' a casting? This is not something I'm familiar with. Trot, the info-seeking, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Coring?
Wow. I guess that really does make for a lot of work 'eh? ;] I had
images of high-temp balloons filled to the apropriate dimentions in my
head. {:]
But then, I'm kinda dense that way sometimes. ;] One of these days I'll
have to make some sand-based castings to see how it's _all_ done. I don't
think that's going to happen within the next decade though. {:]
I've got to build that stupid Garratt first anyway! };]
Trot, the fox with too many projects on his hands. {;]
On Wed, 3 Apr 2002, Harry Wade wrote:
At 05:29 PM 4/3/02 -0500, you wrote:
Trot,
I'll try to be as concise as possible but this can get muddy.
Coring is creating a shaped void within a casting which cannot be formed
by simply ramming molding sand or other investment around the usual male or
female pattern or which can't be withdrawn from the sand mold in a straight
line. The core is what forms the void and these are made from sand or
other formable refractory material and are formed in their own molds called
core boxes. Both the pattern for the casting and the core box are made
with core prints, which are blocks or knobs or cutouts which locate the
core in the sand mold after its formed. When the metal is poured in the
core acts like part of the sand mold and when the casting has cooled and is
broken out of the mold the remaining core is broken out hopefully leaving
the intended void. A shifted core during a pour is one cause of a bad
casting.
Regards,
Harry
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Radiant burner clarification
If I remember correctly from the last time I had mine out, the Ruby's
burner is basicly a normal poker (as described here earlier) with the
first mesh layer already in place. The only part I'm not sure about is
the mesh, I have a fairly flaky memory. :] It already points to the
bottom of the flue so that's a plus. I'm planning to try just wrapping is
with NiCrome wire as some have suggested as I know I saw some of that at a
local shop. :]
I don't know of I can afford the 20X20 stuff that was $30 for a 1' sheet.
{;]
Trot, the budget-limited, fox...
On Thu, 7 Mar 2002, Gary wrote:
Clarification:
I am not sure what a Ruby burner looks like. The Steamlines Shay I modified
and Ted's Porter use Roundhouse type poker burners. The gas jet simply blows
gas into the slotted burner tube. A radiant burner has two layers of
stainless steel mesh. The first layer is finer and helps mix the gas and
air. The second mesh is installed 1/8-3/16 above the first layer of screen.
This top screen heats up and glows red hot.
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Radiant burner clarification
But I never said I'd just be doing a few wrappings... I'm playing with the idea of making my own mesh out of the wire, but I don't know if I really have that much patience. I know I can do it, it's just a matter of whether or not I want to. At the least I'd be doing a set of rings that would provide similar spacing to the mesh, like was done by someone else. They claimed that it did work, while not seeming to be as efficient as the mesh setup. Again, this is just what's going through my head right now. Keep in mind, I'm the guy that built a working stationary steam engine out of LEGOs and has added roller-bearing side-rods and a semi-equalised suspension to a 'Big Hauler.' I might just be crazy enough to attempt the weaving! ;] Trot, the semi-sane, fox... (though I'll never admit it!) On Thu, 7 Mar 2002, Gary wrote: I am not sure a few wrappings of nichrome wire will adequately convey heat to the burner tube. The screen has a lot of radiant surface area. Wire loops, if at the same spacing as screen would still have half the amount of radiating surface of mesh. I am just spouting off without a bit of engineering to back me up. So if an engineer can help... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: soft solder joints (was Harris book)
So what about making a crown plug with a soft-solder core? Are there plugs readily available for our size engines? I'm thinking of a glow-plug with the center electrode removed and filled in with solder or some similar low-temp alloy. Trot, the realistic, fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: soft solder joints (was Harris book)
So you'd have the copper rivit (basicly a plug in the plug) be the core
and the solder would be the working part? Over heat the copper such that
it melted the solder and it comes free into the firebox?
No, I don't actually plan on doing this, but it's interesting to know how
it should work. {:]
Anyone for a coal-fired Ruby?
Trot, the sometimes-insane, fox... };]
On Tue, 26 Feb 2002, Harry Wade wrote:
Trot,
I question the practicality of this in Ga1, but IF you wanted a
fusible plug it would involve three components, a bushing, a threaded plug,
and a copper rivet. The bushing is installed (silver soldered) into the
crown sheet during construction of the boiler. The rivet is soft soldered
into the plug, head down, and the plug screwed into the bushing. The plug
being removable and the rivet being renewable, this would avoid than making
a boiler which in order to save itself must destroy itself.
Regards,
Harry
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: soft solder joints (was Harris book)
Actually, you'd use it in addition to a second safety valve. Also, the rivit would be soft-soldered into the body of an IC glo-plug that had been hollowed out. This would be screwed into a bushing hard-soldered into the crown sheet. I imagine you'd place it slightly over to the side so that it's top was even with the top of the crown sheet to prevent premature loss of cooling in our reduced height boilers. It would be loose-ish fitting though. ;] Trot, the non-trained, fox... On Tue, 26 Feb 2002, Sam Evans wrote: My reading of Trot's comment is that a rivet soft soldered into a crown could be a substitite for a fusible plug. I think either the rivet would have to be very loose in the hole or be of sufficient diameter for the boiler pressure to blow it out. A tightish fitting 1/16 rivet soft soldered into a crown would not offer much of a cross sectional area for the steam to act on? It is not a proven method and I would be most reluctant to use it. A second safety valve would be more certain as I said earlier IMHO. Sam E /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: doorknobs and cabbage stacks
Is that a Pierce loco under there? Enquireing minds wanna know! Trot, the unspellable, fox... On Mon, 25 Feb 2002, Trent Dowler wrote: Vance, It happens every time. I sent the link awhile ago and then found the other ones I was looking for. Enjoy! http://web2.airmail.net/cmalone/temp/txrat01.jpg -The apparent prototype for Carl's Swamp Rat locomotive. http://web2.airmail.net/cmalone/temp/rat2.htm -Another page devoted to his locomotive. Later, Trent /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Other boiler related topic
Yeah, somehow I don't see scale sand helping out much... (talcum poweder? ;] ) Trot, the fox who's seen it done. :] On Mon, 4 Feb 2002, NJMT wrote: One quick comment and I'll bow out of this one! On prototype locomotives, flu replacement is a regular maintenance item. In fact various laws and such govern this. Roughly speaking every five years they are pulled. Running a limited schedule at NJMT, flues will last upwards of 10 to 15 years before they start to leak. This is of course a coal fired boiler and plenty of mechanical working of the boiler and its components. If it would help the steaming of my model locomotive, I would clean the flues any way I needed to and if I had to replace the flues every 20 years I'd be very happy. The advantages of a clean flue far out weigh the potential damage from cleaning which will take decades to become a problem in most cases. On the prototype a trick used to clean the flues is to throw a shovel full of sand into the firebox while the engine is working. It helps clean the flues and screens. H, well Ok. I suppose, that would not work in gauge 1! J.R. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: Shaddock INDOOR LIVE STEAM
I think he was refering to the way that all hydrocarbon fuels (even butane) produce water vapor as they burn. Part of the combustion process causes the fuel to give off hydrogen which then combines with the oxygen in the air, giving off heat in the process. This part of the fire I know burns blue and I've heard/read somewhere that the orange clow is the carbon molecules doing their thing. Don't quote me on that though. I'm an electronics tech, the rest I only dabble in. };] Trot, the fox who's full'o hot air... On Wed, 28 Nov 2001, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote: Kerosene, well the good stuff does not have water in it. Used the K1 grade for years in a workshop heater in my old house. Once I was sold the regular grade and the heater stopped working within a week. When I took it apart the wick was soaked with water. I assumed the regular grade kerosene absorbed water. Sincerely Steve Ciambrone Sr. Test Engineer L-3 Ocean Systems /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Photos of radiant gas fired poker burners in operation
If I might be somewhat demanding... is there any way you could provide
at least one large photo of one of these beasts? I'm having a hard time
understanding how one gets the 'Conestoga Wagon top' to work. Everything
else makes sense, but that little section seems to mess with my mind every
time I read it.
Thanks for providing this info though, If not for you I would not have
known this was even an option. {:)
Trot, the easily-confused, fox...
On Mon, 26 Nov 2001, Kevin O'Connor wrote:
Jim Pitts and I have just posted two photos of gas fired radiant poker
burners to the Notes From Unit Shop niche in the reference section of his
website southernsteamtrains.com .The two burners are modified a Aster poker
burner from John Garrett's Hudson and a two (used to be three) element poker
burner from my Big Boy.
KO-5
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: another Hogwart's Express claimant
I'd have to guess that this is just another promotional loco. Suppose any British outline steamer will do? ;] Trot, the amused, fox... On Tue, 20 Nov 2001, Gary wrote: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1790636a=14012612 I have posted some photos my friend Rob took while in Stockholm last week. You can see them at the url. Amazing how many very different engines qualify. Perhaps someone knows why this engine claims Hogwart's Express status. Gary ~ slogging through another Oregon winter in Eugene with gale force winds ensuring that leaves are finally off the trees. Gary, /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Found: a new source for materials.
Evil, vile, foul devices which should be avoided for all things except steam-loco purchases. };] Trot, the opinionated, fox... On Sun, 18 Nov 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: What are credit cards? Walt /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Motor Oil Additives
AA!!! I never thought I'd see that name mentioned on these hallowed
grounds... Back ye heathen scum and REPENT! Never must the name of the
evil one be spoken in my presence again!
Sorry, got a little excited seeing my name in the same sentance as his and
actually had to check the headers over to make sure of the group this
message came from. ;] I've been considering trying out the 30wt since
you posted that but I've got a 32oz can of 32wt bearing oil that I ordered
from Sulphur Springs. I figure I'll use that up before I go spending more
money on my little Ex-Ruby. {;]
Trot, the highly efficient, fox... {:)
On Mon, 12 Nov 2001, J.D. Toumanian wrote:
Regards,
-Jon
Trot - You'll never guess who got me started looking at synthetic
oils... Troy! (for cars, anyway, I was already using Mobil on my
trains...)
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Engine Clean uo
I was thinking the other day that this may be workable with our steamers. We'd just have to use a very small nozzle on the tip to limit flow. :) Maybe a Cricket jet? ;] Trot, the idea-filled, fox... On Mon, 12 Nov 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 06:46 PM 11/12/01 -0600, you wrote: One of my friends has a 7.5 gauge steamer and he uses a tap on the side of the boiler that he puts a hose onto to steam clean his engine before putting it away. Trent, That's called a steam lance and I've always been surprised that more large scalers don't use them. I'm not sure we make enough steam to run one for any beneficial length of time but I might be surprised. Cheers, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Boilers
I can tell you that they start to smell like roasting electronics when the water gets too low... I shut it down then, it had been running out of power and I couldn't figure out why turning up the heat made little difference. Oh but if I had years more experience! ;] Not helpful, but I won't forget that part of the steamup process again! =) Trot, the hot-fingered, fox... On Tue, 21 Aug 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 10:55 AM 8/20/01 -0400, you wrote: Now for your next act maybe a display showing the results of destructive tests performed on 2 x 8 center flue butane boilers. One that the safety didn't work, another that the boiler was run dry Jim Re your second suggestion, I predict the outcome of that one. If a boiler can be run dry, meaning all available water converted to steam, that implies there is an escape route for the steam. If there's no more water to turn to steam, and the escape route remains open, there can be no danger or damage from accumulated pressure. The problem in that case would be excess heat which would affect paint, radio gear, washers, o-rings, gaskets, soft solder construction, white metal fittings, and fingers. The basic boiler structure would be essentially unaffected. Cheers, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O.T. - The Train and main rod
Oh great. Now I have to go buy the movie just to refresh my memory on that one scene! Thanks a lot! };] Trot, the pit-nicky, foxy... ;] On Tue, 14 Aug 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 8/13/01 6:18:17 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: If this is the movie with all the paintings in boxes at the end I've seen the last half of it twice. Had to keep watching for the trains! The rod he lifts is actually a radius rod for the valve gear. The bearing is the one on the eccentric if I remember right. :) Pulled out the movie last night and I am sure it is the main rod connecting the cross head and the driver. Had to slow scan, but you can see it clearly in one of the scenes with Papa Bolle (sp). I don't know if it is possible to wear out a DVD, but we are working on it. rog /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: O.T. - The Train movie on TCM
If this is the movie with all the paintings in boxes at the end I've seen the last half of it twice. Had to keep watching for the trains! The rod he lifts is actually a radius rod for the valve gear. The bearing is the one on the eccentric if I remember right. :) Trot, the fox who was enthralled by the details shown in the film! On Mon, 13 Aug 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: This is the best and it is available on DVD. The movie stars Burt Lancaster doing most of his own stunts. They wreck 3 locomotives big time. All in black and white with NO model train stand ins. The big scene is when the Brits bomb a French rail terminal and they actually buried many tons of TNT under the yard and BLEW it up, trains and all. The story is good, the acting is good and the train stuff is very authentic. Burt and the boys actually operate the train. In one scene Burt pours babit into a main rod bearing on a Mogul and then lifts (he be stronger than me) the rod and carries it to the engine. Another shot is the Spitfire straffing the train. Real Spit and some wild stopping of the engine at the end inside a tunnel. Be sure to view the making of on the DVD. Everytime I have an open house this movie gets played in its entirety. Another train flick that just hit the DVD shelves is Von Ryans Express. Not as good, but it is railroading. Now if they would put Bite The Bullet on DVD, what a great world it would be. Roger Cutter /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: factoid
They still use steam to power the carriers. :)
It just happens to be turning an electricity generating turbin. {:]
Trot, the responsive, fox...
On Sun, 12 Aug 2001, Keith Taylor wrote:
Walt,
I believe the Navy STILL uses steam to catapult planes off the deck of
carriers also!
Keith Taylor
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Epiphany!
I don't think it really makes a whole lot of difference. The conductive stuff will likely give you a bit lower resistance but the big deal is keeping air away from the connections. I don't think either one will stop corrosion due to electrolosis but they will inhibit environmental corrosion which can aid in the sure and steady distruction of your rails. :) Conductive grease has more use in axle bearings to ensure good conduction from the wheels to the motor. :) Trot, the theorizing, fox... On Fri, 20 Jul 2001, Jonathan Bloom wrote: Am I missing something? Dielectric usually refers to a non-conductive material, such as the oil in a transformer or an EDM tank. Do you want a conductive or non-conductive paste between/around the fasteners? THanks. Jon /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: The Project Help
Yes, steam moves both ways through the two end ports. It exhausts through the middle port by way of the 'D' valve. The valve will move far enough to cover and uncover the ports for steam direction. :) Keep in mind that I'm just talking about general slide-valve mechanics here, I've not seen the plans for 'The Project'. Trot, the quickly-responding, fox... On Wed, 11 Jul 2001, John Kowalchuk wrote: I'm in the middle of building the Project from the G1MRA book and I'm a little confused. I have no background with steam engines but I'm having no trouble with the machining part of things. I'm constructing the cylinder, steam chest and covers at the moment. The photos sometimes help illustrate things better but they don't always agree with the drawings. This leads to some confusion due to interpretation. I have succesfully machined the cylinder and all passages as far as I can discern from the text and diagrams. I can see how the valve (when built and installed) will uncover the steam passages and drive the piston to the far end of the cylinder at which point the valve will uncover the opposite steam passages and force it back. Does the exhaust exit the cylinder through the same passage? Does the valve move far enough to uncover the exhaust ports or is there something missing? John Kowalchuk maker of mutes/horns/canoes/paddles/bikes/harps Oshawa, Ontario http://home.istar.ca/~johnk Canadians don't surf the net, we paddle it. /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Man oh man! Rusk, TX... LONG.
. The engineer
was also all go and very little waiting around even while still being a
very smooth driver. While I was poking about here and there on this loco
I was informed that I could accompany them out for brakeman's duties when
they went back to re-couple with the passenger train awaiting it's return
to Palestine.
Needless to say I didn't have to be asked twice. :) The brakeman and I
jumped into the cab with the engineer and fireman and, after a few
minutes, off we went. It was a pretty straighforward affair of pulling
past the sideing switch in front of the train, throwing the switch, and
backing onto the train. There was lots of hand signaling involved though
and the actual coupling was all sorts of interesting. Back till the pin
drops, check for good coupling, back to bunch the coupler, set the brakes
'cause we're goin' in! Connect the brake hoses and open the valves on
both cars before realeasing the hand brake then it's off to check the
brakes. This involves kicking one pad on each car to ensure they are
actually tight and holding. Once they're all seen to be good a fist in
the air signals release and we go back up front ensuring that all are
loose. At that point the train is ready to go and just waiting for the
time to be right. At five minutes to departure the whistle is given a
long pull to let everyone know their time is limited and five minutes
later the train rolls out of the station leaving a brakeman and a railfan
waving at all the happy smiling people headed back to their vehicles in
Palestine.
Walking back along the tracks gave us the time needed to set the switches
for #300's return... then it was more work on the leaning tower of
heavyweight. We poked and prodded and removed the main brake-linkage so
that the truck could be removed later. Other than this there wasn't a lot
to be done with it.
Somewhere in this whole mess of stuff we ended up setting the newly
rebuilt pop valve on #500. This involved running the boiler up to
pressure while the technician squated on a pallet that had been raised up
to the level of the valves with a forklift. Everyone was given earplugs
to content with the constant whoosh of steam we were about to experience
and the fire was stoked a bit more. When the pressure hit 190 PSI the
tech cranked down on the adjustment nut until the valve was blowing full
bore. The fire was brought down to idle and the pressure started to drop
off. When all was quiet we repeated the whole ordeal to verify opperation
a few times then the fuel cut was pulled and the loco was allowed to cool
slowly.
Later in the day #300 returned and we were at the station to do the needed
duties for her. Disconnect from the train and go 'round the wye before
connecting back up to the other end of the train. This time though the
train was pushed back into the maintanence yard where it was parked for
the night. The loco was then uncoupled and moved over onto the line where
the coach was straddling the inspection pit. we pushed to coach out of
the service bay for the night and then rolled the loco back in to
temporarily park her over the bay for greasing and her daily inspection.
I had never before been under a running loco of any type and I must say
it's an interesting experience. Those axles are _HUGE_ and there's so few
parts between the frames that you can litterally stand up under the middle
of the loco without touching anything so long as you watch out where the
boiler is. :) Grape jelly (a purple synthetic grease) was applied to
most of the outside moving parts and all the bolts and nuts were tapped
with a small hammer by the inspector (one of the engineers?) I later
learned that the inside journals are greased once a week as well as the
power reversing gear. Oiling takes place in the mornings and the engine
is steam cleaned once a week also.
With that completed I was instructed to cap the stack and watched as lots
of valves were closed for the night.
I've got to say that this was a day that I will not forget for some time
to come! Thos only thing better would be if I could come back and do it
all again. So I set out for the campgrounds with my tent and setup for
the night. I was instructed that if I arived at 7AM the next morening I
could assist with #300's hostling duties.
Now if only I hadn't had to sleep drenched in sweat from the heat and
humidity. {:(
Trot, the fox who just might tell you about Friday if he gets the
time... };]
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Man oh man! Rusk, TX... LONG.
It's just a tad larger. I think it has something to do with that arm that runs to the reversing link though... Trot, the oblivious, fox... On Mon, 9 Jul 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 04:49 PM 7/9/01 -0400, you wrote: What can I say... I spent two whole days last week in hog heaven Trot I only have one question . . . do they use a #74 hole in their lubricator steam line or do they go a little larger? /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby, Hot Water
John Thomson has a setup like this on his 'Billy' loco. There's a
microservo under the cab that opens the lines op. :)
Really goes 'WHOOOSH!'
Trot, the fox who wants the real thing. {:]
On Mon, 2 Jul 2001, VR Bass wrote:
On the other hand, there was an article in SitG (I think it was Tag Gorton's?) in
which the author plumbed an open pipe under the smokebox to create a
deliberate leak -- to simulate open draincocks. My memory of the article was
that they had a R/C controlled valve, however, so it wasn't a permanent leak.
Anyway, it might in fact be better to have a draincock leaking than none at
all Just thinking aloud here.
regards,
-vance-
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Cylinder drain cocks
You very funny guy... Trot, the phunky, phoqcie... On Tue, 3 Jul 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 09:48 AM 7/3/01 EDT, you wrote: I will gladly create and install miniature working drain cocks on your locomotive, with cab or radio actuation, for a mere fraction of the cost of a Big Boy. 1/3rd comes instantly to mind. :-) Cheers, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: [SSSM] A Combined Cycle Locomotive? Sorry off topic alittle ! ?
That'a friggin' hilarious!!! Trot, the impressed, fox... ;] On Fri, 29 Jun 2001, Dave Cole wrote: At 11:32 AM -0500 6/28/01, Trent Dowler wrote: I have a picture that someone gave me of a very simple steam turbine locomotive design that I would be happy to share with the list if it is not deemed inappropriate by the list mom. It is VERY comical, but is of bad taste and has a strong sexual content. I know that you all think I'm kidding (or crazy) but it's the truth. trent's picture -- which is reminiscent of the garden statuary where the little boy is filling the fountain, if you get my drift (and for those that don't, look at the name of the picture file) -- is at: http://www.45mm.com/sslivesteam/files/pisser.jpg /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: [SSSM] A Combined Cycle Locomotive? Sorry off topic alittle ! ?
I don't know... Seems on topic to me so long as you run it on steam! };] At least keep me updated, this sound really interesting! Got any pix? Trot, the fox who likes phunky stuf... On Tue, 26 Jun 2001, Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote: I have since bought a lathe/mill and am planning to build an all metal version when time allows. I will see what I can do about pictures. Sincerely Steve Ciambrone Sr. Test Engineer L-3 Ocean Systems /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Camel Back Ruby?
The point of them was that huge Wooten firebox. The areas that they ran
in were supplied with really high ash content coal that didn't produce a
lot of energy when burned. The way they got around that problem and made
use of the lousy coal was to build a firebox the width of the loading
gauge. The enginer can't see around the thing though so they put him up
top. :)
I hear a few were impailed on broken side-rods though. {:/
Trot, the semi-cognisantsp, fox...
On Tue, 26 Jun 2001, Trent Dowler wrote:
I'm disgusted, yet I can't look away. grin
I agree with you completely. They're ugly, but at the same time, very
interesting. I never did understand the complete concept of building a
locomotive that way. The communication between the members of the crew had
to be very limited but I suppose it would cut down on the jibber-jabber
amongst the crew.
Later,
Trent
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: AccuCraft C-16
I finally got to see one run! I was also involved in the diagnosis of why
it couldn't push itself up a grade. :]
This was a beutiful bumble-bee model and was happily prancing around the
track untill it got to the uphill part of the track. Here it continued to
prance at really close to the same speed but didn't have much forward
movement to show for it. Turned out the pilot trucks bearings were
falling out of their mountings and allowing the pilot wheel to bind up
against the truck's framework.
The engine was plenty strong though! I only saw the drivers slow down
once when the engine started to get some better tracktion on a slight
verticle kink in the track.
Looked like a manufacturing problem, but don't quote me on that. The
pilot trucks fake spring-hangers were about 2mm too narrow to hold the
bearings in the proper orientation. The bearings were designed to ride
loose in the slots, but these were falling out.
Good thing there were plenty of Asters and Ruby's to continue the runs!
;]
Oh, on another note... The valve gear would be better refered to as a
simplified Walchearts than simplifies Stephensons. It uses a pivoting
link and radius rod to adjust forward/reverse. It does apear that there
would be room for a full Stephensons gear in there though (no, I didn't
measure anything.) {:]
Trot, the fox who had a truly enjoyable day yesterday (even without my own
engine!)
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Fox in California!
I find myself in Santa Clara for a week and a half on training... Anyone wanna try and hook up? This kinda snuck up on me so I'm sorry about the short notice but I figure while I'm here I might as well try and say 'hi' to some people I wouldn't ordinarily get to meet. :) Let me know what's up! Trot, the trainin', fox... /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Sludge
Now that you mention it I've gotten a couple of those adds on this site
lately where before I've managed to keep this account add-free.
I don't know if it's important or not, but there it is.
Trot, the addy, foxy... {:/
On Mon, 11 Jun 2001, Don Baker wrote:
Anybody else get a rather sad sludge posting from a hardcore porn site yesterday? I
usually get 3 or 4
spam mails a day and have learnt to live with it, and have got used to hitting the
Delete button, but this
one was in a different category. This List is the only US-based list we're on at
present and all my
incoming spam clearly originates in the US.
Enjoy your N.Hemisphere summer steam-ups!
Don Baker
South Africa
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Bear? [was: Re: Sludge]
Sounds like a good reason to install a steam whistle and large compressed
air tank in the back yard. =)
Trot, the fox who tryes to stay outa the way! {:]
On Sun, 10 Jun 2001, Ferdinand Mels wrote:
Hopefully I will have a layout finished next summer i this summer we have had a
Bear problem 300lb.
since they have banned bear hunting - a little hairy when you come face to face (10
feet ) with a large mother bear
just outside your garden only to find the cub in your garden. Boy did that get the
adrenaline pumping.
Cheers from rural Ontario Canada
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Turn On the Lights
I bought a Bachmann Pensy hopper for $55 on E-bay. I don't even like
Pensy!
I then turned around and got a fairly nice Bachmann 10-wheeler for $35.
{:] I learned my lesson!
Trot, the fox who also has more HO engines than he knows what do do with!
On Tue, 5 Jun 2001, Ferdinand Mels wrote:
Hi Trent
Whatever you do stay away from eBay - it is very addictive and you end up with
5 different micrometers - calipers - and hundreds of milling bits - why ? because
its so addictive, and if careful very very cheap. ( 20 Brand new HSS 3/8 shaft -
1/4 double endmills for 20.00 - US made-
how can you beat prices like that ) - I sold my toy soldier collection on eBay and
have bought a full
machine shop with the returns.
My name is Ferdinand and I am an eBay-a-holic :-)
Terry Griner wrote:
Look out! Trent is shopping!!
Trent, you should get the Rio Grande tool Catalog! Talk about Drooling!
Terry Griner
Columbus Ohio USA
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Turn On the Lights
I saw one that had an N scale layout done this way. It worked out really well. :) I might have to do a removable scene with an N scale ride-on when I finally have a yard. That would be pretty sweet. :) Trot, the scalable, fox... On Tue, 5 Jun 2001, Trent Dowler wrote: Hello Trotfox, I saw an indoor G scale layout once that had an HO scale train in it. It was depicting a ride on scale train running around a park. It even had G scale people riding the tender and flatcars. It was really cool. Later, Trent /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Turn On the Lights
I have heard of people turning down the Mag-lite reflectors to get a smaller diameter. If the AAA is too small you could use a AA size that's been reduced a bit. :) They're just plastic... Trot, the modifyin', fox... On Sat, 2 Jun 2001, Kevin Strong wrote: No, and I don't think I will. The wedding's in two weeks, and I don't want to do anything to jeopardize that. We are taking a train ride on the honeymoon - Denver to Glenwood Springs. Not steam, but we may find time to get to Georgetown... No luck convincing her that Chama was the latest craze in honeymoon destinations. sigh I got to thinking about headlights again. What do you use for reflectors? I've heard of some success using the reflectors from Mag-Lites, but then you're limited to the AAA size, which is relatively small, or the AA size, which is a bit large. I've been using a two-part epoxy paste I get from the hardware store in the plumbing department. I fill the cavity of the headlight, and make a bowl for the reflector with my pinky while it's drying. It's not perfect, and I'd like to figure out a way to get a good mirrored finish that won't melt under the heat of the smokebox. Any ideas? Later, K /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Turn On the Lights
It has been my experience that all the White LEDs (which are actually blue LEDs in diguise) need 3-4V to opperate properly. I'd say take two button cells and call me in the morning. ;] Trot, the silly, fox... On Sat, 2 Jun 2001, Ferdinand Mels wrote: Hi Don, A great space saver is high intensity white L.E.D. - they usually run at around 1.5volts thus a camera battery would work fine - watch batteries may not have enough amperage. cheers Ferdinand /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
small diam wheels...
Hi list. :)
I need some small wheels for my Ruby downgrade. Specifically, I'm
looking to find something to work for 25 wheels in 1:32 scale. That
means they need to be about .78 around the treads. So far I've found
things that are close but no cigar. I like the looks of Gary Raymond's
wheels but the smallest thing he advertises scales to 28.
Am I becoming a rivit counter? {:(
Does anyone know of a slightly smaller wheel that's available? I want it
to be just larger than thte tender wheels (as is the prototype) which are
lionel three-rail frieght car wheels and come out right at 22. I have
enough to use them for the loco too but I don't really care for the way
they look. I'd also like to have steel wheels on the loco so they shine
nicely. {:]
Now I'm rambling. Great.
If you have any ideas I'd be happy to hear them. {:]
Trot, the fox who could really do well with a lathe. {:/
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: hunslet
I'd like a look at it as well. :) Do you think it'd be easy to fabricate for use on a future boiler I plan to build? (I have the pipe sitting beside me now...) Trot, the question-filled, fox... On Thu, 31 May 2001, Geoff Spenceley wrote: Royce, I'll attempt to take one with my none-close up lens and send it to you off list, Geoff /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: (no subject)
I run this way and have not run out of water because of it.
Trot, the fox who likes long run-times! {:)
On Tue, 22 May 2001 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Hi All,
Question!,,, If when Ruby gets steam up, to increase the run time if I
were to shut down the burner and then top off the fuel tank before starting a
run will the fuel run out before the water?
I spent this evening making several nice runs with Ruby, the temp. here in
Iowa this evening was in the low 50's and she sure gave off some nice steam
plumes from her stack, sure was a neat sight.
Ruby seems to run better every run, I don't have to push her back and forth
at the start of the run anymore , just put her in reverse and give her some
steam and away she goes.
Keep up the steam,
Roger Arndt
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Should I add weight to Billy loco?
I have seen a billy slip like it was riding on snot. (sorry, couldn't resist) John Thomson's Billy will spin 'em like there's no tomorrow if he's not gentle with the throttle usage. :) I'd say go ahead and weight it but don't go over a pound or so. I wouldn't want you wearing out the bearings prematuraly. Trot, the fox who's seen it happen! On Sat, 19 May 2001, VR Bass wrote: Steve, Have you seen it slip with a load? (The oily tracks on a Saturday at Diamondhead would be a good time to test this.) If so, more weight would probably help. If it pulls a prototypical train without slipping, then you'd probably be wasting the engine's effort on dragging itself around, when it could be dragging revenue-producing cars instead. regards, -vance- /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: Whistles - was How about a sight glass?
That's one of the exact devices I was refering to... My bad about the PNP thing, that's what I get for not paying attention to the schematic. Rad-Shack has 15-piece packs of the 2N3904 transistors for a decent price. :) Trot, the ADD-affected, fox... On Tue, 8 May 2001, Shyvers, Steve wrote: Trot, I looked up the SK3124A and the SK3245 in my RCA SK book. They are both silicon NPN audio transistors. The former is listed as a 0.6W max AF power amp and the latter is a 0.4W max AF preamp. I agree with you about using generic transistors. I would recommend trying the 2N3904 as a substitute for both. It's been around forever and should be easy to find. It does have a higher gain bandwidth product and a max dissipation of 1.2W, but it should be OK unless the circuit design is very dependent on the dynamic characteristics of the original devices. Maybe the biasing will need to be adjusted a little. Steve /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
RE: accucraft shay under steam ...
My Ruby has the same silicone tubing with barbs and wire 'clamps' at each
end. These are normally used for fuel connections on Nitromethane powered
R/C cars. The stuff is tougher than I would ever have thought it was. :)
Who wants to make bets that the production models will use a copper tube
like the newer Ruby's do? {:)
Trot, the fox who's not really a better... };]
On Tue, 8 May 2001, Shyvers, Steve wrote:
Dave,
Thank you for the detail. Silicon tubing is probably adequate for the butane
supply to the burner in this application, but how is the tubing secured at
each end? Are there hose barbs and clamps?
Steve
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Whistles - was How about a sight glass?
These transistors reference to SK3124A for the 2N2712... The 2n3391 cross-references to a SK3245. See if your supplier can get these transistors. If they can't I might have a good reason to get an actual SK book as opposed to using web-sites. ;] Alternately Radio Shack sells 15 piece packages of generic NPN and PNP transistors that look like they should work. I don't surrently have the time to breadboard it though. These generics are transistors that I have used for many projects though I cannot remember the device names right now. :( Let me know what you find as I really woulnd't mind having one of those books... (can't _just_ buy one you know...) ;] Trot, the silly, foxy... On Wed, 2 May 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 09:54 AM 5/2/01 -0400, you wrote: Outdated transistors are not a big deal. If the plans can be found Really? Then do I have research project for you. I am not an electronics-type, but about 30 years ago I found an article published in Popular Electronics magazine on building a solid state electronic steam whistle circuit. The design for the sound to be produced was quite sophisticated as described in that it allowed for the range of dynamics that a real whistle has; the sound of steam after opening the valve, tone development, attack, crescendo, and decay, followed by short harmonic aftertones. Tone, steam noise, and other aspects of the sound were done by varying resistor values. I never built it, the transistors (2N3391 and 2N2712) were no longer available by the time I found it, but I'd sure like to. Cheers, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
I'm thinking a cheap glo-plug with the coil snipped and straightened.
Then fill in the cavity so that the 'water drop effect' doesn't get you.
If placed close to the burner on a Ruby this should also evaporate any
water that bridged the gap.
Blinking LEDs are not an issue. Radio Shack sells LEDs that already have
the flashing circuit built in. All you have to do is supply power and it
blinks all by itself.
Trot, the fox who needs time to play! {:(
On Tue, 1 May 2001, Trent Dowler wrote:
Trot and Everyone,
Rishon has apparently gone to the LED sight glass on several (if not all) of their
locomotives so it must be working well for them. Their Mason Bogie description
mentions the blinking LED sight glass. Blinking would be nice, but I'd settle for
ON or OFF at this point. If memory serves me well, Rishon places two bushings in
the backhead to accomodate the contacts for the sight glass. Corrections anyone?
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember,
( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a
\./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
Outdated transistors are not a big deal. If the plans can be found I could update the specs to allow for current production devices. I'm sure I can find an SK cross-reference book somewhere without too much difficulty. ;] I'm expecting that they would only be used for switching and if this is the case the specific devices are not crucial. So long as the transistors are the same type (PNP, NPN, FET, MOSFET...) and have similar specs. Trot, the bipolar, fox... }=] On Tue, 1 May 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 10:24 PM 5/1/01 -0500, you wrote: Trent, It's not new. Either Peter Dupen or Roy Amsbury (both 1st medal winners for locomotives at Model Engineer (London) Exhibitions) described an electronic water level indicator system in Model Engineer magazine 20 or so years ago. If I remember correctly it used insulated backhead sensors, roughly resembling spark plugs, through detector circuit and LEDS. The circuitry was relatively simple. Whatcha' wanna bet Paul's is an adaption of that? :-) I can look up the dates if anyone is interested. The problem might be, as I have runn into before, that the transistors called for in the circuits are now long obsolete and discontiued. Regards, Harry Wade Nashville, Tn /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
Or just use a three channel radio to turn up the speed on that modified servo-driven water pump in the tender. };] Trot, the hands-off, fox... =] On Wed, 2 May 2001, Charles Brumbelow wrote: If this works, you can put the LED on top of the cab roof or dome, see it at a distance, and run squirt/pump more water in the boiler. Useful if you are using R/C and thus not handling the controls up close. Charles /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Ruby - How about a sight glass?
What is your thought on using a glow plug by snipping the filement at the body then stretching it out. The lingering water drops could be helped by filling the cavity in the plug with hi-temp epoxy... Trot, the R/C-enabled, fox... On Wed, 2 May 2001, Charles Brumbelow wrote: Use a miniature spark (not glow) plug at the desired water level, so that the resistance between the center electrode and the shell electrode would greatly increase once the water level dropped below that level? Probably would want a generous gap between the electrodes to avoid the lingering water drop situation. Charles /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
Re: Whistles - was How about a sight glass?
I'll see what I can do. :) Just give me a little while to do it. I don't know when I'll get the time. Trot, the seekin', fox... On Wed, 2 May 2001, Harry Wade wrote: At 09:54 AM 5/2/01 -0400, you wrote: varying resistor values. I never built it, the transistors (2N3391 and 2N2712) were no longer available by the time I found it, but I'd sure like to. Cheers, Harry /\_/\TrotFox\ Always remember, ( o o ) AKA Landon Solomon \ There is a \./ [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ third alternative.
