Re: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT!!!!

[chem.dd]

Dont go half way, relax and just buy a MAC.
David
- Original Message - 
From: "Jason& Katie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 7:40 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT


> i finally cracked to the point where i went to bed angry last night. M$ is
> really tweaking my tail and ive decided to take on the Hat. Linux FEDORA,
> here i come!!!
> Jason
> ICQ#:  154998177
> MSN:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] (most likely to get me)
>
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
>
>
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messages):
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[Biofuel] May interview with Al Gore

[mark manchester]

Al Gore interview, last month, about his global warming platform and movie.
I missed it, maybe you did too.  Jesse

http://www.macleans.ca/culture/films/article.jsp?content=20060522_127258_127
258


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[Biofuel] Tanks for storing Biodiesel

[Thomas Kelly]

Hello to all,
 I would like to start 
storing some biodiesel to be used as heating fuel this winter.
 I have two 55 gallon 
(209L) drums that methanol came in. They are blue tanks with "VP 
Racing" on them. I was told that they are only used for methanol and "are lined" 
with something. I plan to tee them into my heating fuel line.
 Will they make suitable 
tanks for storing biodiesel? I'm a bit concerned about the lining. It is 
apparently a feature that makes them more valuable for methanol storage, but 
will biodiesel dissolve it?
 
Tom
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Re: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT!!!!

[Jason& Katie]

;P i like the control a pc offers. my experiences with mac werent exactly 
the best

Jason
ICQ#:  154998177
MSN:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] (most likely to get me)

- Original Message - 
From: "chem.dd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 5:31 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT


> Dont go half way, relax and just buy a MAC.
> David
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Jason& Katie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 7:40 PM
> Subject: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT
>
>
>> i finally cracked to the point where i went to bed angry last night. M$ 
>> is
>> really tweaking my tail and ive decided to take on the Hat. Linux FEDORA,
>> here i come!!!
>> Jason
>> ICQ#:  154998177
>> MSN:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] (most likely to get me)
>>
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this outgoing message.
>> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
>>
>>
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>>
>> Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000
> messages):
>> http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
>>
>
>
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> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
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> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
>
> 



-- 
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Re: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT!!!!

[Mike Weaver]

Not cheap, but great machines

chem.dd wrote:

>Dont go half way, relax and just buy a MAC.
>David
>- Original Message - 
>From: "Jason& Katie" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: 
>Sent: Friday, June 16, 2006 7:40 PM
>Subject: [Biofuel] DIE MICRO$OFT
>
>
>  
>
>>i finally cracked to the point where i went to bed angry last night. M$ is
>>really tweaking my tail and ive decided to take on the Hat. Linux FEDORA,
>>here i come!!!
>>Jason
>>ICQ#:  154998177
>>MSN:  [EMAIL PROTECTED] (most likely to get me)
>>
>>
>>
>>-- 
>>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>>Checked by AVG Free Edition.
>>Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.9.0/368 - Release Date: 6/16/2006
>>
>>
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>>
>>Search the combined Biofuel and Biofuels-biz list archives (50,000
>>
>>
>messages):
>  
>
>>http://www.mail-archive.com/biofuel@sustainablelists.org/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[Thomas Kelly]

Jim,
 My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or 
another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that have 
been damaged
(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
 I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2" hardware cloth and a smaller 
one w. 1/4 " hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger 
one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried "siftings" with 
the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting 
plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too 
valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
 How's the garden coming?
  Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "JJJN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "BIO" 
Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


> Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
> encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
> humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
> it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
> killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
> really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
>
> Jim
>
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>
> 



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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[robert and benita rabello]

JJJN wrote:

>Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been 
>encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and  
>humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep 
>it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed 
>killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it 
>really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
>  
>

I don't think this is "off topic", as it relates directly to the 
mentality of "dirt as a growing medium" that is so pervasive and lies at 
the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a "lawn 
professional" suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with 
garden.  "You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than 
grass," he said.

I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost 
tea and "organic compost enhancement liquid".  It's much greener and 
healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of 
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.

It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture 
mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first 
bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a 
lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep 
the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property 
trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn 
maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already 
think I'm weird), please let me know.

robert luis rabello
"The Edge of Justice"
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[DB]

you don't have to grind compost really fine to spread it on your 
lawn...break it down to about 1/2 in particles and rake it in with a wide 
rake. I have a one acre lot with lots of grass, orchard and garden. I only 
weed the garden and only mow the grass. living in the city means your lawn 
needs to be as nice or better than your neighbors, but that is  really just 
an ego problem. my lawn looks just fine to me...Your lawn probabily 
would look just fine to me too.DB
- Original Message - 
From: "robert and benita rabello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 7:46 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


> JJJN wrote:
>
>>Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
>>encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
>>humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
>>it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
>>killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
>>really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
>>
>>
>
>I don't think this is "off topic", as it relates directly to the
> mentality of "dirt as a growing medium" that is so pervasive and lies at
> the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a "lawn
> professional" suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with
> garden.  "You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than
> grass," he said.
>
>I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost
> tea and "organic compost enhancement liquid".  It's much greener and
> healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of
> replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.
>
>It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture
> mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first
> bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a
> lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep
> the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property
> trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn
> maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already
> think I'm weird), please let me know.
>
> robert luis rabello
> "The Edge of Justice"
> Adventure for Your Mind
> http://www.newadventure.ca
>
> Ranger Supercharger Project Page
> http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
>
>
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> 


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Re: [Biofuel] Tanks for storing Biodiesel

[DB]

I use my old methanol drums. If they are steel like 
mine then there is no "lining". you can also use HDPE drums. But steel ones work 
just fine. I have been making bio-diesel since Dec 01 and have made thousands of 
gallons..DB

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  Thomas 
  Kelly 
  To: biofuel 
  Sent: Sunday, June 18, 2006 3:38 AM
  Subject: [Biofuel] Tanks for storing 
  Biodiesel
  
  Hello to all,
   I would like to start 
  storing some biodiesel to be used as heating fuel this winter.
   I have two 55 gallon 
  (209L) drums that methanol came in. They are blue tanks with "VP 
  Racing" on them. I was told that they are only used for methanol and "are 
  lined" with something. I plan to tee them into my heating fuel 
  line.
   Will they make suitable 
  tanks for storing biodiesel? I'm a bit concerned about the lining. It is 
  apparently a feature that makes them more valuable for methanol storage, but 
  will biodiesel dissolve it?
   
  Tom
  
  

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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[Keith Addison]

This is a little out of date and I don't really agree with some of 
it, but it might help. Forget about "fertilisers" (like bloodmeal, 
bonemeal etc), whether "organic" or not, as Robert says it's just 
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use 
sifted compost and compost tea.

HTH.

Best

Keith



The Organic Lawn

As in all fields of organic growing, the basic recipe for a 
successful organic lawn is to create conditions which encourage 
healthy growth of the required plant - in this case grass. While it 
would be difficult to forget to tend the vegetables or the fruit, for 
example, it is easy to neglect a lawn, because it is always there! 
Grass is a fairly tough plant but it will only take a certain amount 
of mal-treatment before vigour and growth is reduced, leaving the way 
open for weeds to invade, and allowing pest and disease to become a 
problem. Regular and timely attention will save time and trouble in 
the long term.

Some gardeners who would not dream of using chemicals on the 
vegetable plot still use fertilisers and/or weedkillers on the lawn, 
either because they think it saves so much effort or because they 
don't think it possible to maintain a lawn organically. An organic 
lawn may require a change of attitude but it is quite possible and 
should not require a great deal of extra work; chemicals can 
sometimes provide a short term solution to a problem but in no way 
replace good care and maintenance,

Another justification for using chemicals might be that the lawn is 
such a small area of land that these couldn't cause much harm to the 
environment. But, it has been estimated that there are around 90,000 
hectares (222,300 acres) of lawn in the U.K. - so if every gardener 
uses chemicals on their lawn this can add up to a considerable 
amount. This figure also shows the importance of the garden for 
wildlife. As our countryside diminishes and becomes more polluted, so 
the value of the backgarden, especially an organic garden, grows.

Are you asking too much of your lawn?

Before you start to develop a positive lawn care programme, take a 
good look at your lawn and ask yourself if you are demanding too much 
of it. Are you expecting it to grow well on a poorly drained site, or 
under trees? Are you hoping that a sward of fine grass will withstand 
the ravages of children's games or regular winter use? Or are you 
expecting a mixture of rough grasses to produce a bowling green 
finish with those famous stripes?

No amount of good care can help if the site and/or the grass species 
in the lawn are unsuitable for the job. The easy way round this is to 
alter your expectations to fit the lawn! The alternative is to 
correct any major problems - such as poor drainage or too much shade. 
If you are sowing a new lawn or reseeding an old one make sure you 
choose a seed mix that suits the purpose. There are all sorts 
available nowadays, including some very hard wearing (but slow 
growing) mixtures.

Mowing

If nothing else, at least everyone mows the lawn. Some gardeners will 
be out with the mower as soon as a blade of grass grows over half an 
inch tall, and others will wait until it is knee high before they 
tackle it. Both of these cases can be a recipe for disaster for the 
ordinary lawn. If the grass is cut too short and too often the plants 
will be weakened, and less able to withstand dry weather and the 
invasion of weeds. Leaving it too long will encourage species of 
grass and weeds at the expense of those you really want in the lawn. 
Regular mowing to the right height on the other hand will encourage a 
good thick healthy sward and help to control weeds. When to cut: As 
soon as the grass is 1.25cm (1/2 in) taller than the recommended 
height. How often to cut: This will obviously depend on growing 
conditions. A general purpose lawn can need a weekly cut. A fine lawn 
may need to be cut 2-3 times a week. Height of cut: Cut a general 
purpose lawn to 2.5cm (l in), a fine lawn to 1.25cm (1/2 in) during 
the growing season. Leave the grass a little longer (say 3cm 
(1-1/4in) and 2cm (3/4in) respectively) in spring, autumn or periods 
of drought.

If you have left the grass to grow too long, reduce its height over 2 
or 3 cuts, leaving a few days to recover in between. A single cut 
will be a great shock to the plants and will reduce the vigour.

Which mower? This isn't the time or the place to get involved in the 
perennial battle between the manufacturers of mowers that hover and 
of those that don't. Gardening Which? reported the results of three 
years of trials which showed that the type of mower is less important 
than how you use it. Most mowers should do a good job if kept sharp, 
and properly adjusted, and provided they are not required to cut in 
wet weather. Choose the one that suits your pocket and vour situation.

Collecting the clippings

If the lawn is cut as suggested there is in general no need to remove 
the mowings as
there should be no

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[Chris Lloyd]

> Forget about "fertilisers" (like bloodmeal,
bonemeal etc), whether "organic" or not, as Robert says it's just
replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use
sifted compost and compost tea. <

Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 


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Re: [Biofuel] Tanks for storing Biodiesel

[Mike Weaver]

I use 55 gal carwash drums; I clean them out well first and bu sure whay 
ever was in them was water-soluable
DB wrote:

> I use my old methanol drums. If they are steel like mine then there is 
> no "lining". you can also use HDPE drums. But steel ones work just 
> fine. I have been making bio-diesel since Dec 01 and have made 
> thousands of gallons..DB
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Thomas Kelly 
> *To:* biofuel 
> *Sent:* Sunday, June 18, 2006 3:38 AM
> *Subject:* [Biofuel] Tanks for storing Biodiesel
>
> Hello to all,
>  I would like to start storing some biodiesel to be used as
> heating fuel this winter.
>  I have two 55 gallon (209L) drums that methanol came in. They
> are blue tanks with "VP Racing" on them. I was told that they are
> only used for methanol and "are lined" with something. I plan to
> tee them into my heating fuel line.
>  Will they make suitable tanks for storing biodiesel? I'm a
> bit concerned about the lining. It is apparently a feature that
> makes them more valuable for methanol storage, but will biodiesel
> dissolve it?
>  Tom
>
> 
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> messages):
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>
>
>
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>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[Mike Weaver]

I hate my lawn.  Pointless, and the lawn owners are killing the 
Chesapeake bay w/ fertilizer

robert and benita rabello wrote:

>JJJN wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been 
>>encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and  
>>humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep 
>>it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed 
>>killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it 
>>really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
>I don't think this is "off topic", as it relates directly to the 
>mentality of "dirt as a growing medium" that is so pervasive and lies at 
>the root of much difficulty in our society.  I've actually had a "lawn 
>professional" suggest that I rip out my lawn and replace it with 
>garden.  "You seem to be more successful at growing vegetables than 
>grass," he said.
>
>I've aereated my lawn this year and watered with mixture of compost 
>tea and "organic compost enhancement liquid".  It's much greener and 
>healthier than it's been in the past, but this method still smacks of 
>replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers.
>
>It's not that I hate grass, but I'm NOT pleased with the monoculture 
>mentality that insists it must be of a uniform species.  When we first 
>bought this property it was covered in grasses that were long and made a 
>lovely sound as the seed heads touseled in the wind.  But now, I keep 
>the motley collection of grasses that pass for lawn on my property 
>trimmed to 55 millimeters.  If anyone has better ideas for lawn 
>maintenance that will not raise the ire of my neighbors (who already 
>think I'm weird), please let me know.
>
>robert luis rabello
>"The Edge of Justice"
>Adventure for Your Mind
>http://www.newadventure.ca
>
>Ranger Supercharger Project Page
>http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
>
>
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>  
>


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[robert and benita rabello]

Chris Lloyd wrote:

>Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
>out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
>supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
>good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
>chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
>but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 
>  
>

I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is 
responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then 
I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL 
have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in 
the past.


robert luis rabello
"The Edge of Justice"
Adventure for Your Mind
http://www.newadventure.ca

Ranger Supercharger Project Page
http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/


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Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!

[Charles List]

Hi Tom

Thanks for that, I tried 70l at the weekend and end-product still  
black, so I tried a 1l batch, still black!! I am using new KOH and  
new methanol (as I'm scaling up I bought in bulk for the first time)  
so could it be one of these that's the problem? If so, how do I test  
if they're any good? I'm getting some kind of reaction as the black  
product is liquid at zero Celsius, and my oil is solid at 10 degrees,  
but I can't see any split at all and, as I said, the product is very  
very dark brown, almost black!!

Charles


On 17/06/2006, at 1:59 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:

> Charles,
>  I think that if you drop back to 80 L you are still making a  
> goodly bit
> of fuel. You still may have to tweak the process  ... increase time  
> and or
> temp. Get it right there and then go up in 5 or 10L increments,  
> testing each
> batch, and again, tweaking, if necessary.
>  I went from small test batches and slowly increased volume up  
> to 20 -
> 25 L batches. I then jumped up to 130L batches.
> When I discovered that the biodiesel wasn't as good as I  
> thought, I
> dropped back to 76L (20 gal)batches. After increasing processing  
> time and
> then increasing temp to 140F (60C) , I finally began to  
> consistently make BD
> that passed the "methanol solubility test" and did not drop out  
> additional
> glycerine when I reprocessed 1L of finished product.
>  The limitation on my system seems to be about 91L (24 gal) and is
> probably the volume limit of my pump, a 1" Clearwater pump.
>  I still quality test each batch, not just to be sure of the  
> fuel, but
> as a maintenance test for the processor and the materials being  
> used. Is my
> recovered methanol pure enough? (If I use the first 4 gal I  
> recover, the BD
> passes the quality test. When I use the first 6 gallons, little  
> buggers show
> up in the methanol sol. test).
>  Slow and methodical pays off.
>  Best of luck.
>  Let me know how it goes,
> Tom
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Charles List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: 
> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2006 4:40 PM
> Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Help needed!
>
>
>> Hi Tom
>>
>> Thanks for the reply
>>
>> I see your point- I scaled up from 40l (with a different processor)
>> to 150l and I should have gone slower. I was just so keen to get
>> going! My newly built pump and processor will handle 150l- but where
>> do you think I should start? Should I scale right back to 50l and
>> work up slowly or could I start at around 80l?
>>
>> Charles
>>
>> On 16/06/2006, at 12:44 AM, Thomas Kelly wrote:
>>
>>> Charles,
>>>  Originally you wrote:
>>> "I have just scaled up to a 150l processor . "
>>> "I have done as suggested on JtF and scaled up slowly, learning as
>>> I go.
>>> Unfortunately, my first couple of big
>>> batches (using creamy canola oil) have not gone so well"
>>>
>>>  At what point did you start having problems?
>>>  In other words how did you progress? (25L?  50L?  etc.)
>>> leading up to
>>> 150L.
>>>  I would suggest that you learn and then perform quality tests
>>> described
>>> at JTF (in addition to the "wash test") as you scale up. Checking
>>> to see if
>>> the BD is soluble in methanol (JTF: "Quality Testing") is as easy as
>>> performing the "wash test". Pass or fail, use the methanol from the
>>> test in
>>> your next batch.
>>>   Using quality tests on my BD as I scaled up allowed me to
>>> tweak the
>>> process (volume of WVO, temp, time).
>>> The limit for my processor seems to be about 91L.
>>>
>>>  Following misinformation from another group, I scaled up to  
>>> 130L
>>> batches, only to find out, after learning about quality testing at
>>> JTF, that
>>> I was NOT making quality fuel.
>>> My batches passed the "wash test", but failed upon reprocessing
>>> (1L), and
>>> also failed the methanol solubility test.
>>>  This poor quality fuel (incomplete reactions) had been poured
>>> into my
>>> into my heating oil tank  ---> roughly 30% BD : 70% petro. While I
>>> was away
>>> the burner failed to start. Fuel had "leaked" out onto the floor.  
>>> The
>>> service tech told my wife that the nozzle had some "crap" on it   
>>> >
>>> sputtering fuel that dribbled out onto the floor. The electrodes
>>> also had
>>> some coking.
>>>  I suspect that poor quality fuel can be burned in a boiler,
>>> but may
>>> need preheating and pump pressure  increased. I had to replace the
>>> nozzle
>>> twice more as well as clean the electrodes, while adding only
>>> quality BD to
>>> the tank. After using good BD I had no problems w. a 30% blend, w/o
>>> any
>>> modifications to the burner.
>>>  I now use 100% biodiesel to heat my house and to heat water.
>>> At about
>>> 50 - 60% BD I had some start-up problems, corrected by increasing  
>>> pump
>>> pressure, nozzle change, and decreasing air flow.
>>>
>>>  I've never tried to reprocess a BD-petro ble

Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[Keith Addison]

Hello Chris

> > Forget about "fertilisers" (like bloodmeal,
>bonemeal etc), whether "organic" or not, as Robert says it's just
>replacing chemical fertilizers with non chemical fertilizers. Use
>sifted compost and compost tea. <
>
>Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
>out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
>supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt
>good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding
>chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it
>but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris

Compost is something you make yourself, IMHO. "Fertilising" in that 
sense means providing the plant with "nutrients", but that's feeding 
it, not fertilising it, you have to fertilise the soil, and the soil 
feeds the plant. Feeding the plants "nutrients" direct is how you 
feed a sick man on a drip in a hospital bed. Feed the soil, not the 
plant.

If you get rotted horse manure next year ("rotted" being a word that 
covers a host of sins) use it to make compost.

 From previous, re bought "compost" (somebody'd said it mustn't get 
too hot, not so):

>Industrial composters use stuff like constant mechanical turning and 
>air injection, or hot air injection, to speed up the process. If 
>that's not properly done it might catch fire, but usually it's 
>properly done. Or at least properly done as far as rapid processing 
>of unstable organic wastes is concerned, but it's primarily waste 
>disposal, as a soil fertiliser it's not much use. They can finish it 
>in a day or less, but some of the important micro-organisms take at 
>least seven days to develop their colonies. Maybe this is where the 
>myth of compost getting too hot and killing off the good guys arose.
>
>I suppose they use compost like this in parks and so on, but if you 
>happen to score a load of it for nothing the only use I can think of 
>for it, presuming that it's free of heavy metals and the herbicides 
>that won't break down and so on, is to use it as a bulk application 
>to kickstart run-down soil, which you then innoculate in situ with 
>much less real compost, as well as compost tea, preferably made with 
>QR and liquid seaweed added.

-- Re: [Biofuel] Crude Glycerin and Hot Compost
http://snipurl.com/rymc

Best

Keith


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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[JJJN]

Hi Thomas,
Thanks, I will start putting compost on soon.  Every thing is going well 
except my gourds, they dont seem to like this latitude or something.  My 
jeruselum artichokes are going crazy they are already 4-5 feet tall.  I 
hope we get a late summer as last year they blossomed - a rare thing 
here.  The tubers are exceptional eating.  I went containers with 
Tomatoes and Peppers to save space.  I am just amazed at how responsive 
plants are to real soil.  How are your gardening ventures doing?

Jim

Thomas Kelly wrote:

>Jim,
> My lawn is in the middle of pasture land, so grasses of one type or 
>another grow pretty well. I use sifted compost to bring back areas that have 
>been damaged
>(after a winter of dogs pee-ing on the grass just out the back door).
> I have two sifters: a large one with 1/2" hardware cloth and a smaller 
>one w. 1/4 " hardware cloth. I sift a large amount of compost w the larger 
>one, let some of it dry a  day or two. Then I sift the dried "siftings" with 
>the smaller screen. This finely sifted compost is great for lawns/potting 
>plants. I use it in trouble areas  - to bring them back. It's much too 
>valuable to me to use on large areas of lawn.
> How's the garden coming?
>  Tom
>- Original Message - 
>From: "JJJN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>To: "BIO" 
>Sent: Saturday, June 17, 2006 10:46 PM
>Subject: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic
>
>
>  
>
>>Hello folks, any organic lawn experts out there?  I have been
>>encroaching out  75% of my lawn with food plants  for both wildlife and
>>humans, but I still have this 25% and living in town  I  need to  keep
>>it lawn.  the question is how does one raise a great lawn without weed
>>killers etc?  I have been wondering , can you take compost and grind it
>>really fine and spread it on the lawn water it in?  Would this be good?
>>
>>Jim
>>
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>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Tanks for storing Biodiesel

[JJJN]

Thomas,
If you can find out from the manufacturer what the tanks are lined with 
then you can determine very easy if it is compatible. I think the 
material may be colapsable polyethylene like the refrigerator wines.  As 
the fluid leaves the material collapses keeping air and moisture out.  
Check the bottom of the drum to see if it has a small vent hole.  This 
is just a possibility, it is best to get a positive ID. If it is 
polyethylene you have no worrys from Biodiesel.

Jim

Thomas Kelly wrote:

> Hello to all,
>  I would like to start storing some biodiesel to be used as 
> heating fuel this winter.
>  I have two 55 gallon (209L) drums that methanol came in. They are 
> blue tanks with "VP Racing" on them. I was told that they are only 
> used for methanol and "are lined" with something. I plan to tee them 
> into my heating fuel line.
>  Will they make suitable tanks for storing biodiesel? I'm a bit 
> concerned about the lining. It is apparently a feature that makes them 
> more valuable for methanol storage, but will biodiesel dissolve it?
>  Tom
>
>
>
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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[JJJN]

Robert,
I was told that if you take one cup Lemon dish soap and mix with one cup 
lemon ammonia and spray like you would with a pesticide bottle that you 
hook on the end of a garden hose.  At first I thought the idea sounded 
good but then what is in all that stuff? and if it kills the bad guys 
whats it doing to the good ones. Have you heard of this? What do you 
think?  I tested a tiny bit on some catipillers and it sure killed them 
and quick, but again that would not be the entire goal if the product 
screws up 10 other cycles to do so. I wish I knew more about bugs.  I 
suppose you may have some luck if you can apply it in a way that was to 
the single point missing everything else.
Jim

robert and benita rabello wrote:

>Chris Lloyd wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught 
>>out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was 
>>supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good, smelt 
>>good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start adding 
>>chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of it 
>>but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris 
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
>I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to 
>kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is 
>responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then 
>I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL 
>have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in 
>the past.
>
>
>robert luis rabello
>"The Edge of Justice"
>Adventure for Your Mind
>http://www.newadventure.ca
>
>Ranger Supercharger Project Page
>http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
>
>
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>
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>
>  
>

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Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic

[lres1]

Are we lucky or what?

The cost of compost is quite cheap here and as such is not sterilized or
"cooked" just mixed and left for the worms and nature with some mechanical
help. Good compost most times.

Have used some local and some of my own compost to grow grape vines, 8
vines, of different sorts. The vines are now doing extremely well and have
formed a shade over a walk way. The shade in the last few days has been
decreasing through voluntary addition of some real fat bugs of the multi
legged type nibbling away at my prized grape vines. Never thought that grape
vines would grow here. High humidity, very hot and very wet in the wet
season and very dry in the dry season. However for some reason this is my
first spot of luck with growing grape vines as shade. What such a benefit if
by some freak twist the vines might produce some grapes this will be the
ultimate in my many years of grape sagas. Never ever eaten one of my own
home grown grapes as never seem to be able to have grown them before. I
would like to get rid of the bugs, like compost them or some such. Any one
know of a non chemical way of dislodging such unwelcome lodgers/habitants or
encouraging them to migrate/immigrate to other sources of fattening away
from my precious grape vines?

My Norfolk pines are doing real well on local compost as are many other
plants/trees.

Have had zero luck at this level with radiata pine no matter what soils, I
think this is more due to the heat and humidity changes.

Doug

- Original Message - 
From: "robert and benita rabello" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2006 5:18 AM
Subject: Re: [Biofuel] Lawn question off topic


> Chris Lloyd wrote:
>
> >Some compost has virtually no ability to fertilise anything, I got caught
> >out this year with the half ton I got for growing tomatoes in. It was
> >supposed to be composted household waste and tree leaves, looked good,
smelt
> >good and will probably make a good soil improver but I had to start
adding
> >chicken poo to save the tomatoes. Perhaps the nutrients got washed out of
it
> >but I'm going back to rotted horse manure next year.   Chris
> >
> >
>
> I've found that the commercial composts are sterilized with heat to
> kill weed seeds.  This also kills all of the soil fauna, which is
> responsible for fertility.  I made that mistake once, and since then
> I've relied on my own compost.  My trees are happier (though I'm STILL
> have insect and fruit problems) and look far more lush than they have in
> the past.
>
>
> robert luis rabello
> "The Edge of Justice"
> Adventure for Your Mind
> http://www.newadventure.ca
>
> Ranger Supercharger Project Page
> http://www.members.shaw.ca/rabello/
>
>
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messages):
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>
>
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