I want to correct myself a bit:
I would suggest you avoid the Dynomax headers for te 68-72 Chevelles
with BBC. I called the manufacturer, and they told me not to buy
it. According to rep, they have clearance issues, especially on the
passenger side. Further, he said they are discontinuing that
thanks al, hats, er --- air claners off to you!
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YES thanks Al ! I am sure many of us had chevelle list withdrawal
symptoms
Bob
Kelly C. Hanna wrote:
Thanks, Al, we appreciate all your time and work.
Anybody that can this type work has got to be smartthanks Al, we
I would like to add my note of thanks to the list. Thank you Al McKenzie !
pem
- Original Message -
From: Al McKenzie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Thursday, April 04, 2002 2:38 AM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle List *admin notice*
Could it be?
I *think* we
I just talked with a guy from Auto Gear
and he said their M-22s run 1000HP pretty successfully. Maybe thats
what I need to look into.
Anyone need a fresh M-21 that I just got
rebuilt? Im asking $700 or so (I want to get the rebuild paid for). I
have the receipt for it!
Christian
have you tried headers by ed-nice stuff! 612-729-2802
---BeginMessage---
I put Hooker Super Comp headers on my 71. I had to grind a tiny bit off
the inside radius of the left lower control arm but I didn't have to put
any dimples in my headers. I looked at a lot of Big Block Chevelles
Use a silicon sealant acrossed the front rear of the block, instead of
the included rubber or caulk gasket. If there is a one piece gasket, still
put a daub of sealant at the corners where the head/block/manifold come
together.
Why instead? I use both. I'm not a big silicone-only fan.
Also
OK: What is the best way to determine TDC for Cylinder 1 if the distributor
was pulled prior to marking or if you are putting in a new one? Do you pull
the head and manually crank it?
Tony Gray
-
To Unsubscribe please visit
could some one listt the max hp/torque atings for the muncies, the ichmonds,
etc?? thanks
---BeginMessage---
I guess maybe my engine plans should be changed.
Many people have had the same sentiments.
Doesnt sound like Im going
to be able to drive the car I was planning on building.
I just posted a few new pics of the 69 El Camino project. The new quarter
panel is on and the rear window sill floor pans will be next. It's
actually starting to look like a vehicle again...
http://johnnasta.com/elcamino/
I also want to thank Al for getting the list going again. Great work!
Clarification:
>I've heard 250 lb/ft, and 350 lb/ft for the M20-M21, but I don't have
any facts for these.
I mean that they are rated at either 250 or 350, not 250 and 350 respectively
Michael Pell wrote:
The new Richmond 5 and 6sp are rated at 425-450 lb/ft.
2 years ago, the same trans
Pull the #1 spark plug and put a cork in the hole. Manually turn the engine
until the cork pops out (indicating that you are on the compression stroke
and not the exhaust stroke). Then you can stick a plastic straw in the hole
and stop at it's highest point. You may pass it the first time, but as
Buy or make a piston stop and screw it into the #1 plug
hole. Rotate the crankshaft CW until the stop contacts
the piston. Mark the position of the damper timing mark
on the block. Now rotate the crank CCW until the stop
hits the piston and again mark the position of the
timing mark. The
Tony. What you do is pull the valve cover on the 1,3,5,7 side ( driver) look
at you rocker arms. From the front to the rear the frist rocker is #1
Exhaust and the 2nd rockere is #1 Intake
Tap you engine around with the starter . The #1 Exhaust will open close
then the will open and close.As it's
Great idea John, I hadn't heard this trick before (about the cork).
If you don't have a cork handy, you can put your thumb over the spark plug hole.
You'll feel the pressure on the compression stroke.
Of course, this requires someone to help and share the beer with . :-)
John Nasta wrote:
Good point. I forgot about watching the timing mark on the vibration damper,
which is why I recommended the straw technique. However the vibration damper
method does not work if the damper is slipping, so keep that in mind. If the
straw reached the top when the damper is not pointed at TDC, then
I'm not a big fan of the piston stop. What happens if it is too long? Well,
you don't want to find out.
I'm also not getting the idea about TDC being between the top of the
combustion stroke and the top of the exhaust stroke. If that is what you're
saying, it's not true. Maybe I am
it does not really matter how long the stop is. You also want to member DO
NOT TURN LIKE CRAZY AND RAM THE PISTON AGAINST THE STOP. Use common sense.
As you get close, slow down and ease the piston against your stop. The TDC
as far as the pointer goes will work on exhaust or combustion stoke.
Oops, I forgot to mention that the engine is turned over
by hand with this method. You're right, using the
starter could result in something unpleasant! It's also
tough to make the crank turn backward, too... ;^)
Basically the method involves reversing the crank
rotation after the stop
Sorry about my spelling but my right hand middle finger is injured. I was
holding the starter with my left hand while on my back about 2 feet in the
air when I dropped in on my right hand middle finger on Sunday. This put a
week delay on completing the motor swap. Serious injury.
Keith
-
OUCH! Years ago (1968 or so) I did something similar with a 3 speed
tranny. Trying to slide it in my 58 pontiac I slipped. It landed on my
hand. Fortunately I was working in the mud of my grandmothers driveway.
Cushioned the impact and all I got was a sore hand for a week or so.
I hope
another way is to take out the number one spark plug, have someone hold there
finger over the hole and have someone else bump the engine to get #1 up at
the top of the compression stroke. I have done this on more than one
occasion and it works out great everytime.
Tom
Before I run can someone quickly tell me the best
place to get hold of a straight 6. Hoist points, eh?
overday
pem
Title: Message
I have never
pulled an I6, but I assume it would be similar to the V8.
I assume the
intake bolts onto one side and the exhaust to the other side of the head.
You should be able to remove the intake and exhaust manifolds and bolt the chain
to the block through one point on
Received the new Edelbrock carb this morning and installed it. Car started
instantly after only two pumps on the gas and ran like a million bucks! I
think the carb still needs to be adjusted since it is running just our of
the box for now. I can't tell you what a relief it was to make the
yea, we're back
Rob Means
be good,if not,be good at it
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Al McKenzie [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, April 03, 2002 11:38 PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Chevelle List *admin notice*
Title: Message
Perfect timing Brad just headed out the door.
Thanks alot !
overday
pem
- Original Message -
From:
Brad Waller
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 1:31
PM
Subject: RE: [Chevelle-List] need help
pulling an engine
I have never
ouch!! been there
sorry ta hear that Keith
Rob Means
be good,if not,be good at it
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Keith Cooper [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 8:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Chevelle-List] Finding #1 TDC
Interesting. I have never actually seen or used a piston stop because I have
heard too many stories (one is too many really) about people forgetting that
the thing is in there and starting the engine, or meaning to tap or bump
it w/ the starter, and starting the engine, etc. That's why the
thanks, this helps me out alot!!!
the t-10 and super t10 are much lower i take it??
---BeginMessage---
The new Richmond 5 and 6sp are rated at 425-450 lb/ft.
2 years ago, the same trans was rated at 425, now they advertise at 450.
Tremec 3550 5sp, 425 lb/ft
Tremec 3550 5sp TKO, 525 lb/ft
i vote for johns way
---BeginMessage---
Good point. I forgot about watching the timing mark on the vibration damper,
which is why I recommended the straw technique. However the vibration damper
method does not work if the damper is slipping, so keep that in mind. If the
straw reached the top
east wood also sells a whistle to put in ---in place of the spark plug
---BeginMessage---
Great idea John, I hadn't heard this trick before (about the cork).
If you don't have a cork handy, you can put your thumb over the spark plug hole.
You'll feel the pressure on the compression stroke.
Of
its ok keith, but are you sure you wern't doing something else with that
finger?
---BeginMessage---
Sorry about my spelling but my right hand middle finger is injured. I was
holding the starter with my left hand while on my back about 2 feet in the
air when I dropped in on my right hand middle
Imagining that 12:00 is TDC, 1 revolution of the crank
from TDC to TDC is a symmetric operation. With the
piston at BDC (6:00) and the piston stop in place, the
piston will encounter the stop at the same height in the
bore (distance from TDC) whether the crank is turned CW
or CCW. For
I didn't know, but according to Richmond
They range from 286 ft lb to 375 ft lb.
See http://www.richmondgear.com/cat/supert10.html
Also according to Richmond: "The Richmond Super T-10 is the NASCAR standard."
hmmm do the NASCAR engines only produce 375 ft lbs? I wouldv'e
guessed higher, but
thanks again mike, thanks for the link also. love your site!
---BeginMessage---
I didn't know, but according to Richmond
They range from 286 ft lb to 375 ft lb.
See http://www.richmondgear.com/cat/supert10.html
Also according to Richmond: "The Richmond Super T-10 is the NASCAR standard."
I'm a big silicone-only fan. I've used silicone only for years. Any time I've
ever used the rubber end gaskets I've had leaks. I tried silicone on the rubber
gaskets once.when I torqued the manifold down the rubber gaskets squirted
out from under it like they had been greasedhad to take
Anyone use a Goodmark bumper (rear) for a 67 Chevelle? I've seen them on
eBay frequently starting at $169 from Southern Motor Sports in Louisiana.
Dale McIntosh
ACES #1709/TC #92 Gold
67 SS/67 Elky
http://www.dalesplace.com
http://www.team67.com
http://www.midwestchevelles.com
looking good JohnThings are comming together well!..
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To Unsubscribe please visit www.chevelles.net/list.html
To start a new topic, send mail to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Here is something else to thing about. When installing new bolts for your
intake, make sure the the fourth bolt on the passenger side and the third
bolt on the driver side is not so long that it hits the pushrod.These are
the only two that can hit the pushrod.
Keith
- Original Message -
Just took a look at the 2 rearends in the garage. They both have a 3/8
gap, so it sounds like you have it correct. Also, I did notice that the
bushing flanges should be installed from the outside (each end) towards the
center.
Kent
'68 Malibu ZZ502/502 :)
ACES #5102
thanks for all the help, now does anyone have any idea where I can get a
replacement bolt that sticks out parallel to the ground towards the out side
of theaxle shaftson the housing. (its not really a bolt, it has a nut on both
ends, one to hold it on and I believe the other one is to hold the
Title: RE: [Chevelle-List] new el camino pics are up
Thanks guys. I'm
sure you can imagine how much I'm looking forward to the first time I sit down
and turn the key (which I have never done with this car since I bought it w/ no
engine transmission, and have only run the engine with a
yes Al thanks a million! the list was missed:)
Larry (z)
i just did my rear bushings and the flange stuck out from the diff. ear about 1/4".
good luck
I have shoved a clean rag in the hole before. Works for me.
Larry (z)
Well since we are talking about updates, i might as well add mine :).
The engine Tranny are done and in the car. The body has been dropped back on and bolted down. The fenders doors have been sanded, blasted, fixed and are back on. I will be attempting to fire her up real soon (I could have done
Hey Tom. Sounds super. Hope to see you there!
Josh Gin (NoNeck) Visit my Chevelle website www.NoNecksChevelle.com
- Original Message -
From:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2002 11:46
PM
Subject: [Chevelle-List] Another Update
on
Hey Josh,
Thanks!! I'll be in Maryland on that friday to help setup, I'll be there all day Sat Sun. By the way, are you going to Englishtown on April 27th?, I'll be there all day Saturday and so will my 70.
Tom
would you have a link to this site please??
---BeginMessage---
The original message was received at Sat, 6 Apr 2002 02:09:01 -0500 (EST)
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