thanks,
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 2, 2013, at 16:07, wwadjo...@aol.com wwadjo...@aol.com wrote:
Mike,
I have looked everywhere for paper work but it must be in Ohio at my home.
Won't be back until October.
But, if you can pull old port, measure length and height, defender site has
Awesome - both lookin' and sailing good!
Gary
- Original Message -
From: Jake Brodersen
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Friday, August 02, 2013 10:15 PM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Jake
Gary,
Spinsheet did mention that we were dressed for success. It all came true.
I want to add a T track slide to my mast for a whisker pole. The mast
tracking is in place, but I can't break the bottom fastener, in order to
install the T-Track. Likely, corrosion b/t the fastener and mast is the issue.
Has anyone had any experience - good or bad - using a hammer drill to
I used a hit it with a hammer type of screw breaker on the fasteners on my
binnacle. Use some WD40 or PB Blaster and maybe some heat (I had to do it all),
but got them all out without breakage. The only negative with a hammer drill is
holding it hard enough against the screw to avoid rounding
I just had to use a ‘hit it with a hammer’ type screw breaker to get the valves
out of my manual bilge pump ... I soaked it in Kroil overnight beforehand. I
think Kroil, PB Blaster or Deep Creep would work a whole lot better than WD-40.
Peter Fell
Sidney, BC
CC 27 MkIII
... soon to be renamed
Hi Rick
Nope, the cradle lift I refer to is essentially a trailer shaped like a
U that they back up around the cradle. They then fit cross bars under
the cradle, attaching them to the trailer, and then hudraulics lift the
whole thing up in the air. It can be moved by a small tractor (bobcat
I don't think you want a "hammer drill"
- technically that is a drill that hammers forwards and backwards
at high speeds to break through concrete.
I think what you want is an impact gun (similar to what mechanics
use on tire lug nuts - but available in small
Kelly, I have to agree with Gary Nylander. The tool of choice is an
impact screwdriver, you preload the spring with a turn and then give it
a sharp rap with a hammer. PB blaster helps too but the real issue is
dissimilar metals. There is a product on the market to use that will
stop the corrosion
Lanacote by Forespar is a waxy paste that works very well to prevent corrosion
between dissimilar metals. One little tub lasts a lifetime.
TefGel is another highly recommended product for this.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 CC 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: Len Mitchell
Danny and Stevan - good points. I'm trying to figure out exactly
where I want to land in the end - this boat looks quite good.
Talking to a couple of brokers I've not been impressed with 2 out
of 3 (one gave me the "bit of interior refresh" remark about a
Just bought a 4 inch solar powered vent. What is the best place for it? The
boat is a 29 mark 2. We could try it on the forward hatch, the non opening
acrylic panel in the main cabin, or take out the vent in the head and make it
bigger. Are there any other
I have a 4 Nicro vent installed in the overhead hatch in the salon of my 38
- I presume that is what you mean by the non-opening acrylic panel. That
vent is set to exhaust in the general theory that the air in the top of the
cabin is warmer anyhow, and exhausting that air will draw cooler air in
Mine is in the head. IMHO the best place. If you use your head at all, it's the
best place.
If it's one of the newer Nicros with the vertical edged cover, I would
recommend against the forward hatch because lines will snag on it. Poor design
and a step back from the older model.
Dennis C.
Finally got Touché out today to try the new jibsheets. 8-15 variable on
Pensacola Bay. Few small cells around to make things interesting.
The new sheets are 3/8 VPC with APSltd's version of Dyneema soft shackles.
They are a definite improvement over the bowline knots in the old 7/16 StaSet.
Drill and tap it.. Will take minutes and your done...
On Sat, Aug 3, 2013 at 12:42 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar drbod...@accesswave.cawrote:
I don't think you want a hammer drill - technically that is a drill
that hammers forwards and backwards at high speeds to break through
concrete.
I think what
The correct tool is a hammer screwdriver. You hold the bit tight to the screw
and then hit the driver. It exerts a downward force and a torque at the same
time. I’ve found it effective.
Pete,
Stainless screw corrosion to aluminum mast is probably the culprit. Heat the
screw with Napa torch until it is ret hot which breaks the corrosion then
let it cool a bit and then hit with a impact wrench and proper bit.
Generally will do it.
John
Arpeggio CC 32
From: CnC-List
Nice aerial photos here:
http://offshorepix.smugmug.com/search/?q=41231c=mediascope=albumscopevalue=30687428_qcHJc2#i=0
Josh
On Fri, Aug 2, 2013 at 10:15 PM, Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.netwrote:
Gary,
** **
Spinsheet did mention that we were “dressed for success”. It all came
Just grabbed the Jabsco in the box at West Marine. Manual pump type. I
recalled some on the list saying (naybe you) that the pump rebuild was a pain
and though the PO included that kit we decided to get a new pump unit. That
unit didn't fit the head so we got the whole shebang.
I didn't
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