Good news! Lee came by this evening and his mechanical ingenuity enabled us
to get the rudder collar off.
The yard lent me two pipe wrenches - one large one and one really huge one.
I had been trying to use them to unscrew the donut by pushing and pounding
with a rubber mallet, but the secret Lee
I'd agree go with the joker valve replacement.
It won't be that messy if you pump a gallon or so of water through.
Anything that runs back will be mostly water plus a bit
of contaminates from the hose walls.
On 4/20/2016 9:56 PM, Jake Brodersen via CnC-List wrote:
Sam,
Perhaps you only
Sam,
Perhaps you only need a new joker valve. They’re pretty reasonable, compared
to the price of a new head.
Jake
Jake Brodersen
C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
Hampton VA
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Sam Wheeler
via CnC-List
Sent:
Hmm, I'm afraid I don't see what you're saying. The pics might help. What
do you mean by "the table"? And he drilled a large diameter hole through
the entire rudder collar donut? That hole would go through the rudder stock
too. Or maybe the 37 has a different rudder attachment. The piece I'm
Might just need a new joker valve. Easy fix.
WestMarine brand look a lot like Jabsco...be sure it will fit before you
pull out the Wilcox...don't ask me how I know.
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This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what
Yeah, but the auto parts stores don't have really small insert kits. I
installed an insert for the T-handle in the lower dinette pedestal base.
Got it at an auto parts store.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 4:46 PM, schiller via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Dennis,
>
> Oh yeah,
Dennis,
Oh yeah, I really like helicoils. have used millions of them in my
carreer. Helicoil repair kits are pretty easy to come by at auto repair
stores or McMaster-Carr. Installation kits come with the bit, inserts
and installation tool.
Neil Schiller
1970 Redwing 35, Hull #7
(C 35,
Touche's refrigeration install created satellite jobs all over the boat.
In addition to having to relocate the freshwater pump, accumulator and tank
for a new battery, I decided to replace lots of lights with LED bulbs to
save battery power. No problem, easy job, right? WRONG!
When I pulled the
Sam,
My wholesale marine parts catalog shows parts for a LOT of marine heads.
If your old head is Model 1460C Headmate, like this:
http://www.downwindmarine.com/Wilcox-Crittenden-Headmate-Toilet-Service-Parts-p-91002266.html
Then the complete pump assembly is Part #015461.
Parts are supplied
Patrick,
Another “tool” to consider is something we used when we dropped the rudder on
Ronin. The yard manager cut a section of fiberglass tube, the kind that you see
when manufacturers glass in exhaust outlets for powerboats and worked that up
as a big socket. Pretty easy and quick. Maybe
If it's not been done in decades, you'll likely find that you have to
replace the hoses once you start on this job. Plan accordingly.
Steve
Suhana, C 32
Toronto
On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 3:23 PM, Don Harben via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Hi
>
> I have the same original head
Hi
I have the same original head working well, but a used pump assembly to rebuild
would be great to have to swap in. Look for one to rebuild and have ready!
Don
Don Harben
Viking 34
Life
www.ncyc.ca
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 2:30 PM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List
> wrote:
Sounds like a joker valve to me. We have to replace our approximate twice
per year.
On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 11:25 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Before you go out and buy a new head or even a rebuild, put some West
> Marine Head Lube in it and pump it through. My
If I'm not mistaken that Wilcox is a far superior toilet to just about
anything on the market and well worth the rebuild.
I've researched toilets WAY too much over the last few years. I
replaced the whole sanitation system on the Viking and used the Raritan
PHII and have now replaced all the
Before you go out and buy a new head or even a rebuild, put some West Marine
Head Lube in it and pump it through. My Jabsco had the same problem. Head Lube
fixed it.
Gary
30-1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday,
On my new SeaFrost refrigeration unit, I purchased the optional internal coils
for supplemental water cooling but have not purchased or installed the little
pump. There's not much advantage to it here on the Chesapeake nor the Bahamas
during the winter but if we were in New England with colder
See if you can find a replacement pump assembly. The bowl should be OK.
Dennis C.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 12:50 PM, Sam Wheeler via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> My boat came with an old-looking Wilcox Crittenden Headmate head that is
>
That's a Jabsco that is probably less from Defender. I installed one on
The Office and Atlantis has 2. I need to rebuild one Jabsco. It was
cheaper to buy the whole pump assembly than to just buy gaskets. Go figure!
Sounds like you need a joker valve which is only about $15 for a Jabsco.
No
If big enough, many units can manage a freezer section with a simple partition.
The instructions for mine said install a partition extending 2 inches above
the bottom of the cold plate leaving a 1/4 inch gap at the bottom for cold to
flow from freezer side to the refrigerator side.
Dennis C.
Hi Patrick.I had some leakage from the rudder thru a crack in the forward
edge. I had the yard clean it up and epoxy some cloth over it and GFlex around
the tube entry.
Still getting some leakage into the rudder. SO, my solution is to remove the
rudder every year and keep it in my garage
Alera came with a Raymarine wheel pilot. I think that a below deacon set up is
superior in a lot of ways. But our wheel pilot has served us well considering
the way we use the boat...cruisers in the Pacific Northwest. We have full
chain and anchor forward and our dinghy w motor other
The unit on my 1980 landfall 38 is air cooled. I've been reading some of
other threads on here and it's seems like a new unit runs about $1300. I
want to convert mine to a freezer/cooler combo...
On Apr 20, 2016 11:51 AM, "John Pennie via CnC-List"
wrote:
> Ed:
>
> If
Ed:
If it’s water cooled you would see a line running off the compressor and
(hopefully) to a thru-hull. Assuming you’re just seeing 2 wires and the copper
refrigerant lines (2) you’re good to go in the water as it is air cooled.
John
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 10:48 AM, Edd Schillay via
I have the same motor in my 1980 Landfall 38 that I bought 2 months ago. I
had a similar issue with getting her started after knowing it was sitting
for over 2 years. The PO put stabilizer and filled the tank with diesel. I
chanel the fuel filter and the battery banks, bit she wouldn't start.
Mike,
Make sure your fuel tank vent isn't clogged, blocked or covered. The engine
can start with what's in the fuel line but it will soon starve the diesel
when air can't get into the tank. A heavy application of boat wax over the
vent is enough to restrict air going in.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V
Check with PYI if you are rudder shopping. They have Jefa rudders
available.
http://www.pyiinc.com/
Joel
On Wed, Apr 20, 2016 at 10:16 AM, Patrick Davin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder
> now is to fix the
Gene's question is timely since the reason I'm trying to drop my rudder now
is to fix the leaking. I observed weeping at last year's haul-out, drilled
drainage holes, and got about 1/2 cup of reddish rusty smelly water.
My Vancouver surveyor told me water in rudders of old boats is very common,
HI all. Josh Muckley and I have been working on my Yanmar 3GM30F together via
email. This list is without a doubt the best source of sailboat information I
have encountered. With Josh's help for diesel issues, Fred for electronics and
all the other experience it is a treasure for owners. I
I have a SS bit on my Dremel. I've used it to grind out screw heads on
screws that won't budge. Often the vibration and heat loosen the screws
and I can still unscrew them before I completely destroy the screw head. A
drill would be a more controlled way to attack the set screws.
On Wed, Apr
Bill
See if your chandlery might loan you a transducer for an afternoon. I once
purchased an ST40 bi-data that had erratic depth behavior and on loan of a
spare transducer had same behavior. It was the control head
In 2014 we purchased i50/i60 tri pack. Occasionally the depth would start to
Good suggestions, all –
As mentioned, make sure all the setscrews are out, in case there were one on
top of another. If someone ground a setscrew into the threads, you could be
screwed, no pun intended. Stainless on Stainless galls terribly, which is why
everyone is always saying to use Tef
icking it in the
> holes, fairing it with wood filler and painting it, but I figured I'd ask
> here first as you guys always come up with something I hadn't thought of.
> PS. - A friend suggested I hang some paintings... my wife nixed that idea.
>
> -- next part --
Danny,
The wheel pilot can handle my 35 in up to about 12 knots of wind. If you
want it to steer while you raise the main or get a drink, it will do. If
you want it on long trips, save your money.
Fred hooked me up with an EV200 to connect to an existing RAM on the
Hylas. It steered for 900
I know they rate these autopilots by weight, as they have to have something
to scale them by, but I think what is more important is how well balanced
your rudder is. For instance, if you had a 20 foot catboat with an
unbalanced barn door hanging out the back, you could burn up one of those
My sentiments exactly.
Bill Coleman
C 39 Erie, PAanimated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Richard N.
Bush via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 8:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Richard N. Bush
Subject: Re: Stus-List Autopilot
Thanks. We were thinking about tomorrow. Now we are thinking about next week
because the wind is forecast to be 10-15 from the South, which makes it less
fun. With 6 feet of draft, we are thinking about going around, but would love
to see if we could make it through, so eagerly await your
I have a new Raymarine i50 depth display connected to a D800- P17
retractable transducer. Boat was splashed yesterday. The depth display
reads LAST and three dashes where the depth should be displayed.
Obviously, it is not getting the information from the transducer.
Raymarine's technical
I have a 27-III.I have drilled and tapped holes - top and bottom- to allow
water to drain in the fall. Inserts go in about now. System has worked for 20+
years.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 20, 2016, at 8:05 AM, William Walker via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Take a small
OMG!
I need an Autopilot but I think my boat is too heavy for a wheel pilot.
However, at that cost it might work as way to let go of the helm for
short periods of time!
I was going to wait and do a below decks autopilot but this could buy me
some time maybe. Any thoughts? its a 40 footer
From the USCG:
USCG 5th District 'Notices to Mariners'
Kent Narrows Shoaling...
MD ? CHESAPEAKE BAY- CHESTER RIVER ? KENT ISLAND NARROWS NORTH APPROACH -
SHOALING
Shoaling has been reported in Kent Island Narrows North Approach Channel.
Depths less of less than
Gee, Richard; I’m speechless… :^) Thanks!
Mark — Defender’s current public price on the EV-100 wheel pilot system is LESS
than my dealer’s cost right now. I’m hoping that means that Raymarine is
coming out with a newer (more powerful?) version, but don’t hold your breath.
They’re pretty
Richard,
Thanks for the advice. I may go that way. I was thinking my
install should be pretty simple with a wheel pilot - but maybe I
just don't know what I'm getting into?!?!?
Mark
There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval.
-
Water in the rudder seems to be really common. My rudder was rebuilt before I
bought the boat. I think surveyors tend to overdo this as my metal also looked
fine once the rudder was opened up. I am curious about the foam in Josh’s
pictures. I would have thought it would keep water from
Last year I could get through no problem with my 5-1/2 foot or so draft. I
never tried low tide, but mid tide or better was fine.
I haven’t tried this year yet. I think I saw the dredge barges out there at one
point, but I really don’t know what they did. How soon are you going through?
I might
Take a small drill bit or ask that fits easily in the hole and " measure" how
deep the set screw holes are and you should be able to tell. If so and you
can't get them out, drill them out and re tap set screws holes if needed with
slightly larger. Good luck.
Bill Walker
Sent from AOL
I can't for Fred, but I can speak for myselfI researched autopilot units
until I was blue in the face and initially decided to go with Fed because he
was on this listhowever, once I received all the parts and began assembly,
I came to rely upon Fred's advice an helpful suggestions to
That was my question, too.
Mine came off with just the use of a large rubber strap wrench.
Rick Brass
Washington, NC
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
wwadjo...@aol.com via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 7:32 AM
To:
Is it possible that a PO doubled up the set screws? Bill WalkerCnC 36
Sent from my LG G Pad F™ 8.0, an AT 4G LTE tablet
___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like
what we do, please help us pay
I'll checked Hodges Marine just now - they are a little more than Defender.
As for Fred - he can jump in if I'm wrong but I've seen a few of his messages
where he said he couldn't beat the sales prices on similar items.
Mark
--
Mark Bodnar
CS30 - Prosecco
> On Apr 19,
Hi Patrick
I had to resort to PB Blaster and a pipe wrench to get mine off, it
chewed the crap out of the chrome plating on the donut but did
eventually come off. A couple of 2x4s and clamps were used to
immobilize the rudder.
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11
On 2016-04-20 12:45
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