A few months ago, there was a discussion of rust stains and weeps of water
appearing on the keel. My first thought had been that water from the bilge
leaked around the keel bolts when the boat is on the hard. I had the boatyard
do some exploration. They found a void in the keel that apparentl
Hint for a former Espar dealer:
They really run better on warm diesel or cold kerosene than cold diesel. If
your diesel tank is cold soaked, the cold fuel can cause the unit to coke up
way faster than normal and taking the thing apart to clean it is a messy job.
We plumber a couple boats to have
My floor boards are the usual teak and holy veneered. Some years back
I painted the bottoms and sides with resin. However I forgot/missed one
side on one floor board and of course, water got in and dark stained an
approx. 1 square foot section.
I presume I have two options to deal with the
Rob, you can strip it and bleach it using wood bleach. It will take
multiple applications. I generally make the solution stronger than the
label says. It is a mild acid so be careful what you get it on, including
yourself. It may not remove the entire stain but it certainly lighten it
Joel
On W
The bearings are replaceable. They are friction fit into plastic but with a
gentle pressure and
heating the plastic they will slide out. I have done a couple for myself and
some other people.
Rebuild kits are available still which may contain the bearings ( 4 total ),
new vane and cups.
The bea
Have an Espar diesel furnace installed by prior owner. works well with ducts
to main salon, head and v berth...downside is "jet airplane whine" on start up
and during operation.. I use to take chill off in May and September mornings
mostly...but no issues in 6 years I have owned.
Bill Walker
C
Hi Rob,
Is the spot just stained or is the wood also showing some rot and structural
weakening? If the latter is the case, you may want to inject some penetrating
epoxy into the area to strengthen it in addition to refinishing the surface.
Graham YoungS/V SpellboundC&C 32
On Wednesday,
I put in a webasto a couple years ago and it’s been working great. I’ve heard
good things about the Wallas, but it’d didn’t fit well in my layout.
I went with the smallest unit due to the fact that I have an open layout and I
just need to take the edge off. It’s better for the units to run
Graham
The wood is simply stainedthere is no structural damage
Rob
On 2017-04-26 11:01 AM, Graham Young via CnC-List wrote:
Hi Rob,
Is the spot just stained or is the wood also showing some rot and
structural weakening? If the latter is the case, you may want to
inject some penetrating
Joel:
Thanks for the tip..I called every hardware retailer here and no
carries a wood bleach that I can find. I will try to find oxalic
acidmaybe that will work.
Regards
Bob
On 2017-04-26 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote:
Rob, you can strip it and bleach it using wood blea
Rob,
The cedar ceiling around one of our chimneys became water stained. Every
one gave me advice ranging from oxalic acid to 40 grit paper. A 50-50
solution of white vinegar and water did the trick. I used a spray bottle
and got the wood good and soaked. This did the trick and it is hard to te
I just torqued Grenadine's keel bolts last week. She's a 30-1, hull #7. Her
forward-most bolt is 3/4" diameter with a 1&1/8" nut. The other five are 1"
bolts with 1&1/2" nuts. I torqued them to the specs listed here:
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/doityourself/torquebolts/torquebolts.htm - 250
ft
I managed to find a DIY solution to getting my keel bolts up to torque
(>300 ft lbs) measured without spending a fortune (~$200) on a high end
torque wrench. I found this handy torque measurement tool for $99 on Amazon
and an mighty breaker bar:
Neiko 20743A 3/4" Digital Torque Adapter | 147 Foot
Hello Ron,
1. What are the torque values that you’ve used?
3/4" Keel Bolt (aft) takes a 1-1/8" Socket, Torque to 250 lbs.
1" Keel Bolt (forward) takes 1-1/2" Deep Socket, Torque to 350 lbs.
1 1/8" Keel Bolt takes 1-13/16" Socket, Torque to 400 lbs.
1 1/4" Keel Bolt takes 1-7/8" Socket, T
Ron:
Thank you.I think I will give that a try before I do anything
else.I will tape off the 1 sq. ft. area, apply a paint remover to
remove the surface finish and then use the vinegar and water solution
and see what happens.
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-04-26
What is the theory behind loosening the bolts before re-tightening?
Gary
"liberty"
Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote:
> Hello Ron,
>
>
> 1. What are the torque values that you’ve used?
>
>
> 3/4" Keel Bol
They will probably be "stuck". If you try to tighten them without backing
them off, you may show more than the recommended torque and they won't move
even though they may be short of the recommended torque. You'll think they
are torqued properly.
It is always best to "start fresh" with the nuts
Seconding what Dennis said, it is never a bad idea to put some anti-seize
compound or moly grease on the threads to prevent corrosion in the future.
Re-torquing nuts that are rusted in place gives a false reading every time.
Chuck Gilchrest
S/V Half Magic
1983 35 Landfall
Padanaram MA
Sent fr
It is to break the bond that may affect the actual torque values.
Bill Dakin
> On Apr 26, 2017, at 2:40 PM, ahycrace--- via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> What is the theory behind loosening the bolts before re-tightening?
>
> Gary
>
Listers-
I put a write-up of my mast step support rebuild project this spring at
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B-NqAxQ6JxFTUlhmbUs4YTZlZnM . It's an 8.5MB
PDF because it has 23 pictures in it. Hope it can be of as much help to the C&C
community as the C&C community has been to me.
Cheers
I really need to add a roller solution on my 29-2 and I'm wondering what
other folks have done. I'd like to do something that works well and is
simple. I currently have a Lewmar Claw/Danforth Anchor that is 22 lbs and a
bit of a beast to drop without a roller. I would like to keep it on the
roller
FYI, Oxalic acid is commonly referred to as wood bleach, so yes, that should
work.
Kindest Regards,
Bruce
847.404.5092
Please forgive any typos as this was sent from my iPhone.
> On Apr 26, 2017, at 10:29 AM, robert via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Joel:
>
> Thanks for the tip..I called every
We also have water stained areas on our floor boards and will eventually want
to refinish them. Once we remove the old finish, what is the recommended
recommended varnish? I am presuming a good quality spar varnish, and I don't
want to start a proverbial "varnish war". :^) That said, gloss?
Ron,
As Bruce said, wood bleach is oxalic acid.
Vinegar has acetic acid. They are both mild acids.
Oxalic acid is a frequent ingredient in many boat cleaning products. It is
useful for removing the "bow mustache" some boats get when sailing in
waters with tannins and other brown staining const
Hello all,
I grabbed a can of Protexall Super Slick Stuff at my local Lowe's the other
day, noting that it says no wax, buildup or silicones. Now I'm a big fan of
Sailkoat on sailboat hardware above deck, and generally a fan of SuperLube for
grease and spray lubricants given its PTFE component.
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