All,
The J30 I race on is overheating. It's not the impeller. The engine is 35
years old and salt water cooled. I pulled the hose off the elbow and blew
into it. There did not seem to be any restriction. (Does that mean
anything?). What's next? Thermostat? Clean heat exchanger? Elbow?
Than
It seems the red stuff is the extended life coolant or ELC type.
I ended up going with the Rotella ELC NF nitrate free stuff from Shell
According to shell on their rotella coolant site it is compatible with
all the ELC type coolants.
I am now planning a flush though, is not worth the risk...
Start with the water intake and chase it down, step by step. I ended up finding
a very old piece of an impeller near one of the zincs (check those early, there
is one at each end of the engine and they are easy to remove). The piece in my
engine had been there for years, just bouncing around and
I don’t know about your engine, but with my old 300D Mercedes in the winter I
would add 1 gallon of gasoline to a tank of diesel. I am not sure modern
engines will tolerate this, but the old car liked it.
As to the rest: If the ONLY issue is water, a good fuel polishing machine will
get it. The
Get a big bucket of vinegar and a bunch of cheap vinegar from the dollar store.
Run it through the engine a few times. Salt and minerals plate out inside the
engine and insulate the block from the water. I did this yearly when I had a
RWC engine. The head also likes an annual vinegar treatment f
For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
1. What engine?
2. Did it fit on the standard engine bed?
3. What prop?
4. Are you using the original strut?
THANKS
Joe
Coquina
___
This list is supported by the generous donatio
On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 10:23 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> For everyone that has a diesel engine retrofit:
>
> 1. What engine? Universal 25XPB
>
> 2. Did it fit on the standard engine bed? Yep
>
> 3. What prop? Martec 14 x 14 (would do 14
C&C 33 mk2
Anyone know the recommended shroud tension settings for the uppers, middles and
lowers for approx 15-20 knots of wind when racing and backstay tension lbs?
Thanks
Hector___
This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
Thanks for the advice. I do have a diesel in S.O. guess I am pumping out the
nasty stuff and scrubbing the tank. Then I am going to leave it empty. Won't
need 90 gallons of fuel for another 3 years when I sever the dock lines for
good.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Peg
Hi Joe,
Snow Goose was repowered with a 2GM20F. From what I can tell, it fit on the
standard engine bed, but the engine cover and the structure on the
starboard side were modified slightly to make room for the secondary fuel
filter. The boat has a two blade folding prop, but I'm unsure of the
bran
Joe,
Due to a failed water pump leading to a hydrolock, I had to do a complete
repower on the Enterprise in 2015. What a nightmare.
1. I went with a Beta 30 to replace my Universal Westerbeke 35M. The Beta is
VERY easy to service and maintain. And, so far, runs like a dream.
2. It did fit on
How far aft of the strut is the prop? When I had a 13x7 prop the tip was MAYBE
½-3/4” from the hull. It was really noisy and switching to the smaller Indigo
prop was a huge noise reduction.
Joe
Coquina
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dennis C.
via CnC-List
Se
For a 35-2:
1. Yanmar 3YM30
2. Yes. The stringers were roughly 14" centers, which fits most small
diesels. My recollection is A4s are more like 12" centers, in which case you
need an engine intended to be an A4 replacement. Rebuilt the beds anyway as 35
years seemed like a pretty good useful
Hi
I don't know if you read my earlier email where we were having a related
problem. In our case it ended up being an air leak in the gasket for the
strainer.
We tested everything else. Ran water forward and backwards through the engine
via the hole for the thermostat and the cylinder intake
Don
No missed it. I'll check the connections too!
Thanks
Joel
On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 3:48 PM DON JONSSON wrote:
> Hi
>
> I don't know if you read my earlier email where we were having a related
> problem. In our case it ended up being an air leak in the gasket for the
> strainer.
>
> We test
Joel,
I have had some experience with a Yanmar 2QM15 which was in my old C&C 29 mk1.
The 2QM15 manual states that at 2000RPM, the raw water pump should deliver 400
l/hr (which is about 1.75 US Gallons/minute).It should be easy to bypass
the raw water just before it enters the mixing elbow
Hello,
My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my hand. It is a simple
replacement, but I could not find a source anywhere in Canada. I found it on
SBO and Catalina Direct, but with shipping, taxes, and after the
Thanks!
On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:26 PM Dreuge via CnC-List
wrote:
> Joel,
>
> I have had some experience with a Yanmar 2QM15 which was in my old C&C 29
> mk1. The 2QM15 manual states that at 2000RPM, the raw water pump should
> deliver 400 l/hr (which is about 1.75 US Gallons/minute).It sh
Start with Ottawa Fasteners on ROBERTSON Rd
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 19, 2017, at 7:42 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
Hello,
My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the
handle to turn off the engine, it stayed in my ha
Mine did that, I just replaced it with two nuts and a big fender washer. Works
for me...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2017-06-19 8:41 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:
Hello,
My t-handle on the engine shut-off has some broken threads. When I pulled the
handle to turn off
Do you have a farm/tractor supply store nearby? Take the handle there and
see if they have a similar replacement. Should be about $15.
The engine stop control is something I would want to have confidence in.
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
On Mon, Jun 19, 2017 at 6:41 PM, Marek Dzied
Hi Joe,
1. first swapped was a Yanmar 2QM20, current motor is a 80s vintage
Universal 25 (1600 hrs)
2. sorta
3. Kiwiprop 15 1/2 D & adjustable pitch
4. yes
Notes:
- the A4 was running fine but I wanted better fuel range for cruising
windless costal days
- the Yanmar was my first acquire
To prevent epoxy from adhering to anything, you can use fiberglass mold
release. You can also use a fiberglass or automotive paste wax. Or don't
and just have the handle permanently attached. Maybe some JB Weld? JB
Weld Putty?
Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Jun 19, 201
If the boat has a hot water tank, and it is heated with a bypass from the
engine, too much water going through the bypass would mean less water
cooling the engine. There should be a valve controlling the amount of hot
water going to the water heater.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Por
My first choice. I have been there this afternoon. Bought a few other things.
It is a candy store.
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Irvin
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, June 19, 2017 20:25
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John Irvin
Subject: Re: Stus-List engine
Hello all,
You can imagine my discomfort when I looked down and found the temperature
gauge pegged as we were approaching a bridge.
I put my wife on the helm and went down below to check out the engine as water
flow out the exhaust sounded good and we weren't throwing off steam. I was
able to h
I have the gauge on my boat and will try to remember to check when I am there
on Wednesday.
I think I remember, but don't want to say in case I am wrong.
You could check the Loos tension gauge site. It may say.
John on EnterpriseC&C 33 MK IIKomoka Ont
On Monday, June 19, 2017 11:43 AM, Hect
Sounds like a bad gauge if it is still pegged with power off.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 Significant
Other LF39
Original message From: bwhitmore via CnC-List
Date: 6/19/17 19:01 (GMT-08:00) To: CnC CnC
discussion list Cc: bwhitmore
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