Thanks, Josh. With seven exit plates, each with four mounting holes, I can
think of 28 reasons to not drill and tap each hole.
The original exit plates had six holes each (as opposed to the current four),
all of which were filled with aluminum screws (held in place with epoxy) that
were ground
Thanks to everyone who responded to my confusion about the bilge pumps in
my C&C 33 MKII. I think I have an idea where to go from here.
Wade
Oh Boy
C&C 33 MKII
Kenora Ontario
On Wed, May 2, 2018, 15:01 Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List, <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I would think you’d want to in
I forgot to mention that when I had my mast rebuilt the boatyard welded all
of the old vestigial holes closed before painting. Of course you're
probably not even considering something to this extent.
Josh
On Wed, May 2, 2018, 9:20 PM Josh Muckley wrote:
> You can rivet them. Mine are. Alumin
gently splitting hairs
the current drawn is controlled by the potential difference and the total
resistance in the loop. It includes the battery internal resistance too. So
reducing the internal resistance by, paralleling the batteries, and all other
variables are the same; there will be
You can rivet them. Mine are. Aluminum rivets won't corrode the mast.
There really isn't a good reason not to go up to a #12 machine screw.
Of course there are epoxy materials such as JB weld in liquid or in a
stick. I'm not sure that they would produce a lasting repair.
What about backing nu
Listers:
Currently doing some mast work and needed to remove and reinstall a couple
stainless steel exit plates. The plates are held in place with four stainless
machine bolts (10-24 or thereabouts), which screw into threaded holes in the
aluminum mast. I discovered that the threads were s
This bring back bad memories of my Yammer's demise about 10 years ago.
Unknown to me then, either or both of these (sensor and gauge) failed or were
incapable of measuring temperature without coolant when the coolant was very
low.
Motoring along my engine died (just slowly quit running as th
I have two friends who own 41s, one deep keel (for racing) and one shallow
“winged” keel. They are beautiful boats. As one lister noted, deck and
thru-hull fittings installed without sealing the balsa core can cause serious
issues. In my experience, deck issues are more easily repaired. Make
I had a similar issue on my Yanmar 3JH2E, and finally realized that the gauge
had been added on (though it may have been original equipment from C&C, it was
not standard Yanmar equipment). I found that the temperature buzzer sensor
screwed directly into the engine but the gauge sensor was teed
I would think you’d want to install a check valve in the discharge line between
the second pump and the tee to prevent water backing into the second pump in
the event of a failure.
Brad
Pulse C&C 33 Mk II
Lake Huron
Anything worth doing requires sails
~(\_~
_
My CC 35 II (1974) also has a manual (Whale) bilge pump in the cockpit, and I
notice that sometimes I have to pump very hard to suck the water from the bilge
up to the pump so it starts pumping. Presumably there is some leakage of water
past the intake valve with just air in the system - at tim
A friend has done multiple Newport Bermuda races on a 41 in the double
handed division. Like any boat of its age, condition is everything.
Joel
On Wed, May 2, 2018 at 1:59 PM, Dan via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi Chris,
> The 41 (40?) is a great boat. I almost bought one but I landed on a 44
> instead
Hi Chris,
The 41 (40?) is a great boat. I almost bought one but I landed on a 44
instead :)
These boats are cored with balsa, so you really need to pay attention to
aftermarket deck and hull fittings. Years ago people didn't think balsa
would wick water but it does... big time. C&C were on top of t
You came to the correct place. We have more than one 41 owner here AND you can
meet us all at the fall rendezvous ☺
I can’t think of any well-known defect in 41s other than being old enough to
have been abused by former owners.
As a *family cruiser*, that is a BIG genoa to horse around. Any 41 wi
Hello everyone,This is my first post to this list. Thanks to everyone in
advance for any support or advice.
I'm currently in the market for a larger C&C for my family to cruise our way
around the Chesapeake Bay (middle/upper), and eventually graduating to a bit of
coastal cruising. I just can'
Question: would it work if the connection was _after_ (i.e. downstream of) the
pump (separate suction hoses, discharge hoses T-d to a single through hull)?
Marek
From: Rick Brass via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, May 2, 2018 11:44
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Rick Brass
Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 3
For certain offshore races there is a requirement for two manual bilge pumps,
one of which can be operated from inside the main cabin with everything closed
up. Is it possible that this could be the reason. I don’t believe the
regulations say it has to have a separate overboard discharge. It i
I can see some almost neurotic logic to having two large manual pumps –
redundancy if one fails or just having a lot of capacity in case you really
need to dewater in an emergency. (I actually have a Whale Gusher in the garage
that I plan to take aboard as a portable emergency pump when I go cru
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