Using the K1 as a base line for time and difficulty.
Please compare the K2 and KX1. I wish to start looking
at my next project. I like building kits
The K2 is essentially the same level of building
complexity as the K1, IMHO. The K2 just takes longer
to build because there are more boards and
Well, just go through the final assembly tests and started the alignment
testing. I was feeling good when all the resistance checks were good. But
then I did the 40m transmitter test, per the book.
When I set the power out to 2.0 watts, then hit the TUNE button, I got wildly
varying output
My two-band (40 and 20m) K1 has been sitting idle for too long and it
needs a new home. I am offering it along with the internal ATU and tilt
stand for $300. It works great but I just don't have the time anymore to
get on the air. I accept personal checks, VISA, MC, Discover and American
Express.
Fellow Elecrafters:
K2 #4649 is alive! Actually, it has been alive for about a week
but I didn't want to declare victory until both CW SSB were
fully tested. (OK, 12m is still not working... but I'm getting
there!) I did have a few questions which I hope the
collective expertise of the list
Mike, are you talking about a K2? If so, check R66 and R69.
R66, 2.7k (red-vio-red) is closest to connecter P3 and the edge of the board
while R69, 100k (brn-blk-yel) is farthest from the edge of the board.
If they are reversed, the RF detector will work, sort of, but the readings
well be very
This may be a repeat as the previous message did not show; it was sent
before the conformation of subscription.
I installed a 3Ah Li-PO battery in my K2. This battery has a starting
voltage of about 12.4 and ending of about 8. To make the most of it
requires that the drop in voltage on
The battery is very secure in its wrap around aluminum bracket. Just set the
internal battery switch to the off position to be safe.
I use a Samlex PS goosed up to about 14.5V (Adjust VR2, not VR1!) connected to
the normal power jack and all is well.
73,
Lonnie
NY2LJ
Hello list.
Just finished my elecraft 222 transverter and have a couple of issue.
1 - The input attenuator is overly sensitive. I believe this is R22. I hardley
touch it and the voltage level goes way beyone the suggested 2 volts. I
replaced it with a 10 turn pot and have a little more
I can heartily endorse the AADE LC meter ( see http://www.aade.com/)
I received a kit for Christmas, built it in less than 2 hours, and have been
extremely happy with the unit. The AADE unit won't do large value polarized
caps, but generally the application of such caps (bulk capacitance for
Hello, as a newbie I just finnished my K2, sn 4415 and I was wondering is it
possible to read the contents of the filter settings via the RS232 port and
store the results or even change the settings via the RS232 port?
Happy new year and thanks in advance, André pa0akv
I'm not completely sure I want to do this yet, but would anyone who owns
a KPA100 internal amp be interested in swapping it for a external
150W auto bandswitched , filtered, overdrive protected, external amp + cash?
http://www.rmitaly.com/scheda.asp?tipo=175lingua=
(PDF of manual/schematic
Dave, a few others noticed that sensitivity in the adjustable attenuator
pot, R22, as well and I was asked to take a look at it.
The 2 volts was an arbitrary figure. All that's needed is to be sure the
stages aren't being driven into limiting so you'll get nice, clean peaks
when making the
In running the final Resistance Checks on p. 71 of the K2 manual, I only get
1.7 ohms at the Q7 collector. The manual says I should get 500 ohms. When I
study the schematic, I can't see where the 500 ohms is supposed to come from
since Q3 is connected across Q7 and Q8 collectors and the 12V
I meant T3, not Q3.
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Help:
Hi Gary,
Yes, you are also looking at the 12 volt line.
Only 1.7 ohms is too low. Look at your meter. Is the positive lead
at Q7 - if not you could be turning on D12 on the 12 volt feed. That's
a reverse polarity protection diode. Also, the resistance readings don't
come out right if your
Hello all,
My curiousity has gotten the better of me and I have to ask. Is there
any word on when a 432 MHz transverter will be available? I believe that I
heard somewhere that they were working on it. Any ideas?
Doug W4DAS
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I wish to thank all who responded to on the posed K1, KX1, K2 time and
difficulty question.
I am leaning toward the K2 since my idea of portable operation is field
day (maybe?). To be
truthful building the GEAR is more fun the operating it as the building
removes the stresses
everyday
Gary,
You have a short (or at least a very low resistance) to ground somewhere in
the PA collector circuit or on the +12 volt line.
The easiest first step in isolating it is to remove the heat sink. The tabs
on the PA transistors are connected to the collector, and the thermal pads
are
I am at a stumped, stopping point and need some assistance with the Ms.
Moskita kit that I am building for another ham. Receiver workes great, I get
side tone but no transmit power. The problem is in the PA. I have triple
checked all of the component placement and values, toriods, and all of the
Hello all.
I've been lurking here for quite a while.
K2/100 #4684, and associated goodies, is officially under way.
--
R. Kevin Stover, ACØH
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