hello elecrafters,
I ordered my K2 kit on dec 3th
it was sent off to me on dec 4 th
I had to wait till dec 27th for it to arrive here
because it was held up in customs. Had to pay 21% VAT
and 5% income tax.
But in the meantime, I had a lot of time to browse the
email reflector archive, and this
Hey folks,
Well, last night I did something foolish. I put a bit on a K1 on e-bay.
I bit near the max I thought the rig was worth but figured I'd be out
bid. I wasn't. I won. Oh great, I'm not sure I really was planning on
that, but hey, I got the rig so ...
Some time next week I expect a
Congratulations Jo!
The only comment I can make is that I don't know if it is a good idea to
put your K2 on Top of the kenwood...for two reasons
!) Heat...will it get too hot there?
and
2) embarrassment. Won't the Kenwood just die of embarrassment when it
hears how much better the K2
Dale,
You will not be disappointed in the K2 receiver - it is better than the K1.
More selectivity control, greater sensitivity, greater dynamic range, and
many other pluses. Both hear very well - in fact the test numbers place the
K2 in a class with $3K transceivers.
73,
Don W3FPR
Stephanie,
One of the high probability places for a solder failure is on the thermistor
board. First thing is to check the 4 volt output - look for 4 volts on RF
Board U6 pin5 - if it is not close to 4 volts, find the solder splash on the
thermistor board. Sometimes you can examine the board by
Hi Dale,
I've had both, still have the K2 (and building a
second). The K1 was decent, but I work the big
contests and chase DX, so needed something that was
more bullet proof and flexible.
The K2 is much more adaptable for those situations.
Multi bands in one package. 160 as an option with the
Hi everyone,
Thank you all so much for all your suggestions and advice! It looks
like I have some kind of intermittent fault in my PLL Reference
Oscillator. I've retouched all the solder points in that area incase
it was a cold joint, and after poking around at it for a bit it
suddenly
... or a short under the can. It's easy to get enough solder up the leads to
contact the can where you can't see it. If there's too much solder, you
could get that symptom. I'd pull the crystal, clean the holes carefully with
solder-wick, and reinstall with attention not to over-use the solder.
The most sensitive part is almost always the problem part! Try gently
tapping other parts. I've often used the rubber eraser end of a pencil to
make gentle pokes to determine which part is the most sensitive. Sometimes
it's hard to tell!
One thing that can cause this behavior is marginal
Hello All,
Thank you to all of you who answered my query about building a
K2 without having to remove components as I add options - the Rework
Eliminators is just what I was looking for.
Now for the next question - down in the bottom of my parts box
was
Bob, W1SRB wrote:
down in the bottom of my parts box was a handheld speaker/microphone that I
picked up at a flea market a long time ago - it was probably from a CB rig
as it has a 2 character display as well as the PTT switch, volume and
squelch controls and an up/down switch. If I remove
I would check the solder connections on the toroids in the PLL section, in
particular, the transformers. Check continuity thru the windings by measuring
from other component leads connected to the pads the toroid leads are soldered
to. If you don't get the toroid leads cleaned and tinned
Keith wrote:
Some time next week I expect a little box with a K1 in it. I'll have
fun comparing it to my TenTec Omni V. I could see me replacing both
with a K2/100 some day ...
I don't think one should consider the K2 as an upgrade to the K1. These two
units fill different rolls. For my
Thanks Mike,
Due to cost limitations (I have too many hobbies, too few dollars) I
find I'm usually running a very lean ship. One rig is about all I can
have, maybe 2 tops.
If I find the K1 is to my liking (menu-driven, QSK operation, sound of
receiver, RX performance, etc) I'll consider going
Keith, KD1E wrote:
If I find the K1 is to my liking (menu-driven, QSK operation, sound of
receiver, RX performance, etc) I'll consider going to a K2/100 as my only
rig. I do basically no portable or field ops - except for field day where
I'll carry a 12V deep cycle battery my full size rig into
Based on what you say, I'd suggest you get the K2. You don't have any of the
needs for which the K1 is the better rig, and the $'s ain't that much
different (you just have to abuse the math just right).
K1 = 359 = $90/band.
K2 = 599 = $75/band.
K2+K160RX = 638 = $71/bandg.
Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
Hmmm, Now hold on there Ron :-)
I figure, the K1 and K2, both coming from Elecraft, will have a similar
operating feel. Small size, menu driven who knows what else. It will be
quite a shift from my big Omni V, right?
I used to have a Corsair II. Prior to that I had an Omni D. I now have
the
Keith wrote:
Hmmm, Now hold on there Ron :-)
I figure, the K1 and K2, both coming from Elecraft, will have a similar
operating feel. Small size, menu driven who knows what else. It will be
quite a shift from my big Omni V, right?
I used to have a Corsair II. Prior to that I had an Omni D. I
Hi,
I would like to know if I use my K2 with the KPA-100 for outdoor
operation, and if I turn off the KPA-100 from the menu and also if I
powered my K2 from the samll DC connector instrad of the Powerpole
connector ... May I use the BNC antenna connector instead of using
the SO-239
You see the most interesting things on Ebay.
Read the first sentence of the description of this Icom 706:
Ebay item 5854697970
Tom K8TB K2 Sn# 3206 5050
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You must be a
I just finished building and installing the KNB2 andK60XV option boards. As
usual with Elecraft it all went together FB and runs as advertised with no
problems. I do have two complaints, however.
1. The K60XV has no toroids! What kind of Elecraft kit is it with no
toroids to wind? Where's the
Well I finally got the PLL reference oscillator to oscillate
consistently.
I removed the crystal and found a tiny little sliver of metal
shorting one of the pins to the case. I don't think it was solder as
it wouldn't melt but I was able to pick it off with tweezers. I also
re-seated
Craig,
You are correct, the K160RX should take you only about 2 or 3 hours total
depending on how proficient you are at removing the heat sink from the PA
transistors.
(Tongue planted firmly in cheek)
You might want to make a major mechanical job out of attaching the BNC
connector the rear panel
Stephanie,
Congraulations on finding the source of your PLL problem - those
intermittents can be quite nasty to find.
It is likely that your low 8 volt regulator is causing your lower AGC
Threshold. Actually I would recommend not worrying about it at this stage -
but just make a note of it.
Jean-Francois,
Ther is no need to turn off the KPA100 in the menu - just remove the power
from the KPA100 and power the base K2 at the coaxial power connector - the
display will come up with 'No PA PS' when you power the base K2 and you will
have the full 0.1 to 15.2 watt power range available.
Hello everyone. I just joined the group lately and have been reading some of
your emails. So far I have built a T1, KX1 # 1192, K2/100 # 5022 and several
of the mini kits. I'm just starting K1 #2157. Everything worked ok except the
K2 SSB board. I ended up having to buy another one to get it
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