Good Evening,
Another week has soggily passed here in the Coast Range of Oregon. The
daffodils have yet to bloom but are starting to gain color in their buds.
The loggers are starting to build roads and I have seen a few insects
flitting about. Hopefully we will not get another freeze
Hi
I agree with the tuning clunks - just got back from 2 weeks as E51PJT
having had plenty of pile ups and the clunks were quite irritating.
73 Bob G3PJT, E51PJT
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Hi all,
It turns out that pin 17 on U2 has an undefined voltage.
When NOT selected that band (40/30M) it must be 12V. I measure 7V.
The input for this switch is pin 2 at U2 Here I measure 0V (=good) and
goes HI (5V) when selected
So U1 is working well
Will heading tomorrow for a new U2
This might be a tough nut to crack in terms of the surgery required. From a
quick thus limited investigation into this clunk problem in my K2 I am
reasonably certain that the lack of shielding to protect the VCO and
Reference, together with the lack of suitable interface filtering , is
I am currently building up a KPA100 amplifier (i.e., a recent vintage unit
purchased at the Orlando Hamcation Elecraft booth in February, 2007) and
have reached a problem during the alignment and installation phase of this
build. My basic K2 is a Rev. B model (i.e., S/N 4751).
The first weird
Gang
I found this alignment tool and it does a super job
of adjusting those caps in the KX1. with a 2mm flat tip
and being ceramic it does not detune the circuits. Just
a satisfied customer
http://www.mtechnologies.com/tools/#align
de RC KC5WA/AE
OK, now I'm confused. I'm currently building the KPA 100. I've just
finished soldering the finals. I currently have a blank space at L15. I
checked the schematics in my manual (Rev D, 9/25/06) and it shows that L15
is not used. I also don't have any toroids left, and I wrote in all the
errata
Jim,
Sorry about the confusion I caused. I meant to say L16 but my finger
slipped. Yes, the board built from the Rev D manual will have no
component at L15 (and R12 and C82).
You will not have voltage at D13 unless you have connected a power
supply to the KPA100.
73,
Don W3FPR
Soaring
That's a FB find RC. Thanks. I have a set of ceramic screwdriver alignment
tools I got from E.F. Johnson back in the 1980's for aligning their 900 MHz
repeater transmitters used in land mobile service. They tools are great but
brittle, as you might expect from ceramic. Almost all of my blades are
Hi all,
I've been working on a prototype enclosure for the W1. See here:
http://w8fgu.home.comcast.net/w1encl.html
As soon as I gather the feedback from my beta testers and incorporate any
necessary changes, I will start the first production run. I haven't settled
on a price yet, but should be
The plastic versions which have a small blade poking out at one end and
recessed at the other are also useful for tweaking circuits working at HF
and low - mid VHF, ceramic better for higher frequencies such as 900 MHz
that you mention. The recessed blade makes getting proper alignment dead
Quite right, Geoff, when they fit!
I've found that is often not the case, especially in situations like the KX1
where the alignment screw is behind another board that has a small access
hole in it. Often the access hole isn't big enough to accommodate the
larger-diameter tool or the alignment of
Very slick, Dave. Sign me up when you have it ready. BTW, if you are in
the market for a digital wattmeter kit between the W1 and LP-100, I have
a new meter kit in prototype called the LP-400. It's styled to match
Elecraft equipment, and has excellent accuracy and some of the LP-100
features.
Folks,
I'm having a real struggle getting 6 to 7 WATTS on 28 Mhz while all other all
other bands come up with a number well in excess of 10 Watts.
Has anyone experienced this problem and was able to solve it? I'm suspecting
low pass filters that are not coordinated to the 10 Meters Caps, if
Bill,
The most common cause of low output on 10 meters is T2 - be certain it
is wound exactly like the illustration in the manual (except for the
number of turns in the illustrations which may or may not be correct).
The second thing is T4 - be certain it is wound as instructed in the
If all else is well, then consider how you are measuring it. As Don has
pointed out before, the internal power meter expects a 50 ohm load.
After trying several configuration that showed 6w on 10m, I checked the
dummy loads. All three were showing 1.2 swr with an analyzer. I then
connected
Just started on my K2, SN#6048...and am new at this process.
I seem to have smoked the resistor r20 in the control board, as I installed
it...a 2.7 ohm (Red-Violet-Gold) resistor which now reads .001 on the
DMM(I
think too much heat for too long as I attempted to reposition it after it
Whatever happened to plastic knitting needles that we would shape?
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft Discussion List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sunday, March 25, 2007 5:13 PM
David,
Most all the resistors in the K2 (including R20) are 1/4 watt. The only
1/2 watt resistors on the RF Board are R50 and R58.
To the best of my knowledge, all resistors shown in the schematic that
are NOT 1/4 watt are designated with the power rating. In most cases, a
1/2 watt can be
In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], David Cutter
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes
Whatever happened to plastic knitting needles that we would shape?
David
G3UNA
They are now made of aluminium (aluminum), David, but even if you could
get plastic ones they would certainly not be strong enough for the KX1
Did you have anything connected to the antenna jack when you did that? I
cannot hear the birdie at 7.000 with any sort of antenna connected to the
K2. Even with the antenna off it's easy to miss unless I have the preamp On!
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Please don't misunderstand me, I like to use my ceramic tools as well.
73, Geoff
GM4ESD
- Original Message -
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quite right, Geoff, when they fit!
I've found that is often not the case, especially in situations like the KX1
where the alignment
Thanks to Don and David for their responses. Once I spread the turns on L21
and L22 I noted a couple of dB of gain. Then I got really serious with my
measurements using my 3585. The '85 said something just over 40 dBm - 10
watts. So I quit fiddling and am ready to work on the K2 auto-tuner.
Hi Dave,
I am interested in it, please keep me advised of the price and availability
in due course.
73
Johnny Siu VR2XMC
From: Dave Van Wallaghen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] W1
Date: Sun, 25 Mar 2007 11:47:42 -0400
Hi all,
I've been working on a
In process of upgrading K2 #2117.
Installed BFO and PLL thermal upgrade kits. All was
well. Then I put in the new firmware. It came up ok
with INFO 201 and then Elecraft. Following
instructions I did the EDIT ST L. As I don't have
anything but SSB and 160 currently installed, I
realize I
I have heard of this being a problem. They call it a fat finger fowl
up. Often hear of folks change something in the firmware by mistake
when they do not mean to. I realize this doesn't necessarily apply, but
at least it is something to check. Good luck.
Dave,
That is an excellent method of achieving a 1:1 SWR with an unknown (or
questionable) dummy load. Thanks for the reminder. Just be aware that
the SWR=1 condition is frequency sensitive - the tuner must be retuned
if the frequency or band is changed.
73,
Don W3FPR
David Wilburn
Folks,
I solved the problem with the SWR Bridge null adjustment (CI) by reflowing a
bunch of solder joints (i.e., Don's usual suggestion) around T1, R21 and R22.
However, now I have a new problem - I am drawing to much power in the transmit
tests of on pg 50 of the KPA 100 manual. My metered
That is absolutely right Don. I was playing with it several different
ways, and using the tune button and the manual tuner you could really
see it jump when you got it dialed in. The output of the power meter
on the K2 was considerably more sensitive than the meter on the tuner,
and was able
Les,
The most usual reason for excessive current is the Low pass filters -
check the toroids for an extra turn - count the number of times the wire
passes through the center of the core.
Also carefully check the calibration of the wattmeter forward power pot.
Also check the bias setting
Good Evening,
Forty meters was much more RF friendly than 20 meters today. I
received a number of reports of prospective QNIs going begging since there
was either no one there or they could not hear the NCS. In this case
there was only one NCS: me, way out in Oregon. I read on Space
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