I`ve been following this thread with interest as I have the same
perceived problem as John - and think all K3s exhibit this symptom.
I do not believe anyone has mentioned signal to noise ratio and surely
this is fundamental ?
I work a lot on 160m trying to dig out extremely weak signals using a
Don,
Thank you for your responses and for your efforts on your webpage.
However, I should have made it clear that I'm not in a noisy environment
and just to make it absolutely clear I've made another recording without
antenna connected to the K3.
Main and RX antenna physically removed, pre Amp
For those who would like to read up on the LM4950TS device with which
some have experienced failure, here is the link.
http://www.national.com/ds/LM/LM4950.pdf
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Home:
G3XRJ wrote:
Finally I must point out that I'm not saying the K3 is a noisy receiver
but rather, whatever the AGC does in its present incarnation in the
digital stream, has the effect of increasing the 'rf gain' from 12
o'clock to nearly 3 o'clock on overall system noise.
Rather than
Just did a comprehensive evaluation of the Kenwood TS-590S.
A good average radio, only slightly better than the TS-570. Not even close
to a K3, the only similarity is physical size.
John w5gi
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Home:
John,
Your recording has substantiated the cautions that I have mentioned.
First, attempts to evaluate the K3 AGC response with no signals on the
band will lead you in the wrong direction.
Secondly, you apparently have the AF Gain well advanced, perhaps even at
maximum.
Third, you have
Robert et al,
I apologize if the following info is a repeat. I'm still catching up on the
emails on this reflector.
You can purchase Anderson PowerPole connectors and tools at
http://www.powerwerx.com.
73,
Gary R.
N6LRV
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
Bob Naumann wrote:
Wayne,
Am I correct in my understanding that the reason the 2.1 is not
currently
allowed is simply a firmware issue?
Yes. As usual we have a long list of customer requests that we're
working on. This is one of them (along with allowing the FM filter to
be used for
Your K3 comes with the Power Pole connectors that it requires.
You do not need to purchase an additional connector.
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 9:51 AM
To:
Don,
Thanks for response again.
Recording was made from 'line out' so af gain not in play.
Havn't had chance to try your suggestion yet but think I've already been
there.
73
John
John,
Your recording has substantiated the cautions that I have mentioned.
First, attempts to evaluate the K3
Thanks Wayne for this information.
To be honest, I did not look at the manual for restrictions on what filter
could be used as I didn't expect there to be any restrictions - especially
for SSB.
So, from a technical standpoint, my expectations were correct, it's just
that the firmware does not
Just a very brief report on my new TS-590. Dead on arrival. Going
back for a full refund. End of story.
Doug -- K0DXV
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Help:
First: Thanks for posting your website url (saved in my favorites).
I wonder if any of you K3 owners have this phenomenon: My K3 causes
a loud pop-pop in the speaker when I turn on the power. It appears
that the volume is at full momentarily on turn on. I am using an
external 4-ohm speaker
Thanks for reminding us - too easy to think in 1950's analog reasoning.
I am glad for ability to turn-off AGC. Making sun-noise measurements
on VHF+ with an eme station, linear gain is needed for precise
measurements. AGC typically screws that up. For all other use I have AGC on.
73, Ed -
Hello!
I am still looking for some options for my K3. KAT3 Tuner, KTCXO3-1 TCXO,
KXV3A RX Ant., IF Out and Xverter Interface (last Version), KFL3A-2.8K 2.8
kHz, 8-pole filter, KFL3A-400 400 Hz, narrow 8-pole filter, KFL3A-250
250 Hz, narrow 8-pole filter etc..
Thanks
73s Alex NH7VW
I have the same thing. It seems to be associated with relay actions. First
in one speaker channel, then a bit louder in the other speaker. At power
off there is one more pop about like the lower level first pop at power on.
Not too bad, but it was surprising to find this happening.
Chuck,
Hi
Does this mean that I should not worry about the AM filter in the certain
knowledge that I will, sooner or later, be able to transmit AM using the FM
filter?
If so let me chance my arm by asking how far away this change is (Hi).
73
Bill
--
View this message in context:
--
From: Wayne Burdick n...@elecraft.com
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2010 10:54 AM
To: Bob Naumann w...@w5ov.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] FM Filter for AM?
Bob Naumann wrote:
Wayne,
Am I correct in my
This ain't your daddy's analog radio...
A frightening article, especially for a guy who still uses his Valiant and
NC-303!
But seriously, folks, it was very informative, and gave me something to
think about while being dragged into the 21st century.
Tnx, Guy.
VE7XF
Hi! For digi modes I put my k3 it into Data Mode and I use a Signalink Usb
external interface rear connected. Everything' s working but I'd like
suggestion to verify that I set properly Signalink interface output level
and/or rear input k3 level control in way I have a correct and full
Hi all.
I have been soldering these relays and it is not working!
First off I have good soldering skills and I have soldered many kits and I
have not had this problem to date.
I soldered the relays K1 through K8 with no problem but I have tried to
solder the rest and it is not working.
Relays K9
The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (10/10/10) at 1800z on 14.314
MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon, and I will try to swing the
antenna in multiple directions to get as many of you as I can. We need a few
good relay stations too. See you then.
73,
Phil NS7P
My k3 has developed a mind of its ownI have looked in manual but cant find
anything to help.
when I select 10mhz band I get 12mhzhow do I get the radio to go to 10.1mhZ
when I select that band
If you don't change direction you WILL arrive exactly where you're
headed!! Susan Meckley,
Giorgio,
Yes, the ALC meter works with the line in or the rear microphone jack.
Adjust the levels to activate the first 4 bars with the 5th bar
occasionally flickering.
There are some interface boxes that require a jumper to be changed to
obtain the higher level output that is required by
The one easy thing to do Susan, is go to what should be the 10 Mhz band, then
push FREQ ENT button (*it's the red one next to the VFO) then push 10100 then
the AFX button... That will enter in that exact freq. From then out you SHOULD
always end up on 30 meters when you cycle through the
Oh yea, then go to the 17 meter band because that's on FIRE right now... Great
DX from you're area of the world right now. Enjoy.
From: notforc...@hotmail.com
To: ussvdha...@yahoo.com; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2010 21:13:22 +
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] need help
The
Try direct frequency entry for 10.1 MHz:
Tap: FREQ ENT, 1, 0, ., 1, AFX
Once you get to 10.1 MHz the BAND switch should cycle back to it normally.
Ron AC7AC
-Original Message-
My k3 has developed a mind of its ownI have looked in manual but cant
find anything to help.
when I
Susan,
Please tell us how you select the 10mHz band In other words, tell us
the steps. There are several ways to select bands on the K3, and that
just may be part of the problem.
In the meantime, what happens if you use direct frequency entry?
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/9/2010 4:56 PM, ussv
It remembers close enough. Tune from 12 mhz back to 10.1 then select
another band. When you next select the 10Mhz band, it will be on 10.1
Buck
k4ia
k3 #101
In a message dated 10/9/2010 4:56:50 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
ussvdha...@yahoo.com writes:
My k3 has developed a mind
The damned thing does get ornery at times
if I tune to the BC band or 600 meters it wants to go back there
when I band change from 80 to 160,, my quick fix is to switch to am mode
which allows for fast frequency change and
tune the frequency up to 1.8 mhz and then it is happy again
for me that is
Thanks a lot Don for the quick, clear and exhaustive suggestion you just gave
me ! I just went to see and my regulation was 90% ok, now it's ok (4 bars
and 5th occasionally flickering). No I did not need to place the jumper to
increase output signal. Day after day i must say this rig is
Eric,
Try cutting off a foot or two from your solder roll.
No I am not crazy - what you describe is what happens when flux is
missing from the solder.
It occasionally happens that there will be a length of solder without
the flux. Blame it on the solder manufacturing line.
73,
Don W3FPR
On
On 10/9/10 11:53 AM, Doug Person wrote:
Just a very brief report on my new TS-590. Dead on arrival. Going
back for a full refund. End of story.
So, what you're saying is that it has VERY quiet receiver, right ;-)
73, Ross N4RP
--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur
I use the Freq Ent button and key in the frequency that I want to change
bands.
It seems easier to me most of the time and it is certainly easier when you get
the bands in memory messed up.
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ
From: riese-k3...@juno.com
My k3 has developed a mind of its own...
If using CAT control, play Cat-and-Mouse...left- or right-click in your
desired frequency. This is much faster than pushing small switch
nubbins. Software is sooo nice!
John Ragle -- W1ZI
__
Aloha everyone:
Thanks for all the help, I think I have the problem under control now.
Real bad week, got robbed, lost over 500 dollars and eqpt, chased her for
almost two blocks...at seventy five I am too old...had a small stroke from over
exerting myself.
a/c crashed, but I was able to fix
Hey Don.
WOW.
3.5' of solder i removed and now it is working. I never noticed that there
was no or not enough flux. I did get that puff of smoke at first. I took off
a foot at a time and once I got to 3.5' I was soldering better. I was able
to solder other parts but for some reason these 6 relays
Eric,
Good news that you found the problem. Yes, any manufacturer can have
problems at one time or another.
I once helped wire a house, one electrical fixture did not work. We
removed the wire and found that one conductor had no copper inside for
a distance of about 10 feet. It happens to
Eric,
I had the same problem! I just kept working at it and finally did get them
all soldered properly. I am not sure why there is the problem with this kit.
I too thought I might have an aging tip so after that I ordered a bunch on
new ones with different tip shapes for future use (I have a
Wow, what a solution! Now here is my question ... What is the probability
that we both had problems with our solder in the same place on the board?
Anyone else have difficulty with it?
73 - Mike WA8BXN
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Hey Mike.
It is good to see that I am not crazy :-)
Taking off the 3.5' of solder did help a lot but it was not as easy to
solder as the other parts I installed. It may have something to do with the
process if installing the SMDs that change things a bit but it was defiantly
a bit more challenging
Hi all,
Sorry for the late hour in posting. I will be runnign the net on 3658 +/-
QRM tomorrow (Sunday) morning at 09:00 BST (08:00z) as usual. I hope to see
you there.
73 Ian
--
Ian J Maude, G0VGS
SysOp GB7MBC HB9DRV-9 DX Clusters
Member RSGB, GQRP 9838, FISTS 14077 | K3 #455
Good Evening,
My day started a little early when I turned on the lights to check the
clock. Yes, the logging had started on a Saturday morning at 3:30 AM. I
was mistaken the day before when I told someone it was at 4 AM. I had
only lain there listening to the whoomping of falling
I have a new condition Icom SM-8 Base Mic that I would like to wire to my K3.
I have the wiring diagrams for both but the Icom diagram (and schematic) shows
a separate mic ground and regular ground and I am not sure how to handle that.
If anybody has experience wiring this mic, your help would
I didn't have Mike's problem with the T1, but I do keep a bottle of flux
handy (e.g. GC Electronics Liquid Solder Flux P/N 10-4202). One small bottle
will last many, many years. If it run into a situation like that I wet the
tip of a toothpick (or the solder) with flux and apply it on the
Dean,
The Elecraft microphone pinout has 2 ground pins - both 7 and 8.
I believe it is conventional to connect the PTT return to pin 7 and the
AF Ground to pin 8.
In any case, it will make no difference with the K2 or K3 because both
pins 7 and 8 are connected to ground at the board.
73,
Don
Yur welcome and enjoy all of your stuff.
I run back to my Johnson Ranger, Johnson Courier amp, and 75A3 when I
have analog withdrawal symptoms (often enough). I also have a Yaesu
FT101ZD that was a gift that I'll probably never sell. When I get
homesick for a real RF gain control and S-meter
Guy,
OK, I got my license in 1955 and had a garbage receiver (NC-54) and on
my teenage allowance could not afford anything like the Johnson Ranger,
so I built my first transmitter from a 1955 ARRL handbook design. A
6CL6 and a 6146 design that was TVI-proofed by using all shielded
wiring
Don has described the problem quite well, I've found that manufacture error can
cause the missing rosin, however,
I've found much more often for my bench, that when I wasn't careful with the
closing of the end of the solder, that the rosin
would not be there when I needed it the next time..
Ah, but there was something magic about those years that modern times have
lost.
We were on the frontier of communications back then, when many people
never even thought of making a phone call more than a dozen miles away (it
took an operator to make calls farther and often we had to wait for
Guy,
I hope we are not drifting off forum purpose here but wanted
to say you are bringing back happy memories. I used to have
a 75A3 also. Beautiful receive. Remember many enjoyable
evenings rag chewing on 75 with my feet propped up on the
desk holding my D-104 mike. I'd better curtail
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