I find I have to connect my I/q output to my iMic sound card and set the input
switch to 'mic' instead of line. The levels shown in iSDR are modest in this
case.
Does anyone else have a similar experience or is something not right with my iq
output?
Thanks
Alan
K2ACK
Sent from my mobile
On 29 Aug 2013 at 12:00, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 09:59:46 -0400
From: Mike KS7D k...@verizon.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/KX3 Prog Ref App
Message-ID:
Tomy,
Remove the right side panel and dress the ribbon cable and the speaker
cable up into the space between the top of the Control Board and the
KPA100 - get them as far away from the KSB2 board as possible.
If that does not correct it, you may need to adjust the BFOs for the FL1
OP1
On Fri, 30 Aug 2013 12:29:18 +0100, g8kbvd...@googlemail.com wrote:
On 29 Aug 2013 at 12:00, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:
Message: 2
Date: Thu, 29 Aug 2013 09:59:46 -0400
From: Mike KS7D k...@verizon.net
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3/KX3
Julie :
Make sure that FLDIGI is actually using the iMic for both RX and TX and not
the internal soundcard on the computer.
Michael VE3WMB
P.S. You might try hooking headphones or a small amplified speaker to the
output jack of the
iMic to verify that you are actually getting TX audio when
I think that a step is missing from the manual. To Scan one must first do
what the manual describes. Once you have held the SCAN button the display
shows your VFO A and VFO B settings, to start scanning you must hold the
SCAN button once more. From this point, the manual picks up again with the
Dave,
The K3/Kx3 Programmer's Reference app includes several essential additions to
the free Elecraft K3/KX3 Programmer's Reference Manual:
1. It includes the full text of the Elecraft K3/KX3 Programmer's Reference
Manual.
2. It includes full details from the Menu Reference and Switch
I would like to come back to this topic with an update after still
experiencing the same issue.
I now use my ZS6BKW with a 1:1 current balun between the twin line and the
coax. I have tried a 70' and a 30' length of coax to the rig. If you think
it will solve the problem, I might even try a 5'
Arno,
Even though the battery voltage measures (as an average) at 11.7 volts
during transmit, my suspicion is that it may be glitching for brief
periods below 11 volts and the detection circuit trips forcing the KX3
to low power.
Check all the connections to your power source and make
Bill,
The XV Owner's Manual page 11. Figure 7 shows the pin to pin connections
for the XVxxx and the K3 ACC connector.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/30/2013 1:44 PM, W0WFH Bill wrote:
I know this should be simple but having lots of problem finding
the pin out from the K3 ACC to the XV144 control. Yes
I know this should be simple but having lots of problem finding
the pin out from the K3 ACC to the XV144 control. Yes I have a KXV3a in my
K3. I just need to know how to wire up the DB9 on the XV144 to the DB15 on the
K3. Thanks Bill,W0WFH
THANKS EVERYONE, too many manuals but I found it in the Owner's
Manual for XV's Many thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
73, Bill, W0WFH
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Hi Arno,
I run a similar setup, ZS6BKW, 1:1 current balun, 100ft RG213 coax, I normally
run 10W, and haven't observed problems with the rig switching back to 5W. I do
run my rig off a 13.8V 20A supply. If you run at a lower voltage, the rig needs
to draw more current to maintain a particular
Hi Matt,
Maybe I gave a wrong impression with my statement of SWR never higher than
1.3. Usually, SWR is at 1.0 and only at rare instances do I see 1.3. What I
wanted to express is that SWR should not be the cause of the issue.
I have not observed the display at the very moment of power switching
Arno,
Also check the connections to the fuse in your power cord. You *DO*
have it fused do you not?
A fuse near the battery is essential to prevent a shower of molten metal
if there is any fault in the wire or the connected equipment. Any
battery stores a LOT of energy.
The automotive blade
But why is the SWR varying like that? Is it wind moving the antenna or ladder
line around, maybe close to something metal? Is it bad connection? Is the balun
saturating or heating up (unlikely at 10W, but then I don't know the details of
your balun)?
With the power, it is important to have
Hi Arno,
If your fully charged batt reads 11.4 V AFTER the KX3 has switched back to 5 W,
the voltage reading with 10 W (maybe 50% more current?) will most probably be
below 11 V.
I would suggest that you try to gradually increase the output power from 5
Watts and read the voltage and
Here is a few questions.
1) are you running from a external battery or the internal aa batts.
2) have you run a check on the cables to make sure there are no
crimps/bends/breaks in the line with a volt meter ot cable tester or such
3) what is your external power source ? anything under 13.8v
Robin,
I have the NB installed in my K2 and I elected to use that option to
install the IF buffer. The other option may offer slight improvement in
performance, but I didn't feel it was worthwhile in my case.
I haven't been using it long enough to give you any real feedback. Like
you, I plan
I should have mentioned it again: I am powering from a 12V 17Ah sealed lead
acid battery.
From: KENT TRIMBLE [mailto:k9...@socket.net]
Sent: Friday, August 30, 2013 12:26
To: Arno Dienhart
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 power reverts from 10W back to 5W
Are you powering the rig with internal
Hi Don,
I guess I didn't explain well enough.
What I meant is the K3 has lots of ways to go to TX/ many of which I want to
use/
So yes, I do want to go to TX via the voice keyer, or via the internet, or
via the key, memory keyer, tune button or even the microphone ptt switch. I
just don't want
all you need for smd is solder paste/glue and you put it down on the
board and lay the SMD and the heat the SMD up and it will ad hear to the
board.
--
R.Neese
KB3VGW
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Robin,
If you do decide to go the SoftRock/Clifton Labs route, be advised that
both are kits containing SMD parts. Not a major obstacle, but you'll
definitely need a good soldering iron with small tip and probably
magnifying lenses to help locate and solder the little buggars! In
addition, the
Hi,
I am in the process of installing the KAT2 and need some clarification
on the bridge null adjustment procedure. Following the instructions, I
set the slot of C55 parallel to the K2 rear panel. After activating
TUNE I can adjust it down to about 002 or so. Then if I put it back
into
Mike,
You might try the bridge null a few times and take the average
position. It is quite 'touchy', and yes it may vary a bit from trial to
trial. As noted in the manual, the reading at the null depends on stray
capacitance in the KAT2 - so if you moved anything it will change a bit,
Hi Don,
You (and Matt) might have a point with the power connection. I connect to
the battery poles (which have the shape of blades) with copper clips, which
are of rather thin copper sheet, so the contact surface is perhaps too small
and too loose. I will build a better connection next.
My 259
All are good suggestions, this and the others. I will try them out and
report back. At this point, my money is on my flimsy clips.
FTR, I do have an inline 7.5A fuse, automotive dual blade type.
To Matt: maybe I am still not communicating clearly. The SWR does not vary
ceteris paribus, only
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A KX3 owner reported that on power-up, his KXAT3 internal ATU was being placed
in bypass mode even when it had been in AUTO. I just confirmed this behavior
and have correct it. The problem may exist in the latest beta release (1.57).
If you have have seen this symptom and can test the fix this
Is anyone using the West Mountain Clear Speech Noise Reduction Speaker
with their K3? If so, how do you like and what does it do for you that
the K3 does not?
Thanks,
Bill W2BLC
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I have used the Gap Hear It and SGC ADSP2 speakers, which are very
similar, and they have their advantages. I prefer the SGC because of it's
ease of switching between 0db, -13db or -26db noise reduction with a single
switch.
I use the SGC on 6M, when I want to monitor 50.125 USB continuously.
Not with my K3 but in the truck with a Kenwood 480. The CS is one knob
variable from zero to max noise reduction, just right for mobile ops. Eyes on
the road noise reduction.
That said, the K3 NR is much more elegant though it needs more interaction from
the operator. But at the desk I don't
Hi Richard,
Only saw your post now, so here are your questions with answers below:
1) are you running from a external battery or the internal aa batts.
2) have you run a check on the cables to make sure there are no
crimps/bends/breaks in the line with a volt meter ot cable tester or such
I've got a gap made by bmi. When I first put it in I thought it was some
advantage but rarely think so anymore.
I can switch it in and out.
When I want NR I run the k3 dsp pretty hard on ssb at 7 or 8-2 or 3. This
reduces volume drastically so I have phones on the external speaker side but
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