GM,
yes of course Mike, I think any secondary school student can calculate
it little difference.
Besides, new resistors on top of old - it's not aesthetically. :)
73!
Alex UR5LAM
Mike Harris wrote:
G'day,
I think placing the 51 ohm resistors on top of the existing SMD's was just
for conven
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill W4ZV
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 3:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod
Bill W4ZV wrote:
>
> ri
>
> Alexander Ponomarenko-5 wrote:
>>
>> GA,
>>
>
Exactly.
Either way is OK.
73, Eric WA6HHQ
Elecraft
Mike Harris wrote:
G'day,
I think placing the 51 ohm resistors on top of the existing SMD's was just
for convenience. It makes little difference to the final result - 51 ohm
vs. 45 - 49 ohm.
Regards,
Mike VP8NO
_
Bill W4ZV wrote:
>
> ri
>
> Alexander Ponomarenko-5 wrote:
>>
>> GA,
>>
>> today I has same time for install K3-AF-mod (second part with R19 and
>> R20). It was easy job. Yes, it's really worked! Now line-out are worked
>> better! Here is plots "before" and "after" mod.
>>
>> Line-OUT bef
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod
|
| ri
|
| Alexander Ponomarenko-5 wrote:
| >
| > GA,
| >
| > today I has same time for install K3-AF-mod (second part with R19 and
| > R20). It was easy job. Yes, it's really worked! Now
do it. Any info would
be appreciated.
Bruce-W8FU
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Alexander
Ponomarenko
Sent: Tuesday, December 09, 2008 4:51 PM
To: undisclosed-recipients:
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrad
ri
Alexander Ponomarenko-5 wrote:
>
> GA,
>
> today I has same time for install K3-AF-mod (second part with R19 and
> R20). It was easy job. Yes, it's really worked! Now line-out are worked
> better! Here is plots "before" and "after" mod.
>
> Line-OUT before replaced R19&R20
>
Priwet Alex
GA,
today I has same time for install K3-AF-mod (second part with R19 and
R20). It was easy job. Yes, it's really worked! Now line-out are worked
better! Here is plots "before" and "after" mod.
Line-OUT before replaced R19&R20:
http://forum.cqham.ru/download.php?id=33360
And AFTER:
http://
I do not think anyone opting to make the short procedure has anything to worry
about regarding putting pressure on the PC board when mounting the RFC 47.
This choke is mounted between the thru-hole on the 12V trace and the pigtail
through the solder pad for the original RFC on top of the board.
Bill, W4ZV wrote:
Make one! http://www.al7fs.us/AL7FS5ATSprint2.html (2nd pix down)
...and http://www.qsl.net/n5ib/surface_mount/
73, Bill
Thanks, Bill. I heartily endorse this little device. I built mine from a wire
coathanger, a couple of fishing weights, a toothpick and a two-screw
Roy Morris wrote:
If it only takes 15 minutes to install the RFC 47 via the long method,
then I suspect this is a modification in a K3 without the KRX3. I used
the short method because I did not want to have to remove the KRX3 and
the TMP cables.
Another variation is to remove the top cover
Jim,
I'm with you in that most folks find it easier to work with leaded
components on a SMT PC board -- until things start going bad. So, I'll take
the counterpoint on this one...
I learned the hard way that using leaded components on a surface mount
pad/trace can lead to permanent PCB damag
If it only takes 15 minutes to install the RFC 47 via the long method, then I
suspect this is a modification in a K3 without the KRX3. I used the short
method because I did not want to have to remove the KRX3 and the TMP cables. I
find the TMP cable connections to the KRX3 are difficult to dea
ROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
> Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 11:30 AM
> To: 'Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU'
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod
>
> Floated off? Did you he
Floated off? Did you heat both ends at the same time?
I haven't checked the parts on that particular board, but many such parts
are attached to the board with a drop of adhesive before they're soldered.
When mounting SMDs - piggyback or on a bare board, I tack one lead with a
slightly wet sold
P.B. Christensen wrote:
>
> Somewhere on the web, an ingenious fellow developed a slick "third hand"
> for SMT work The device is clamped to the edge of the PCB and pivots much
> the same way that we used to adjust a crystal radio's detector by varying
> the catwhisker arm position and tension
;piggyback" SMD resistor approach avoids the necessity of removing SMDs
from the circuit board without damaging traces.
Ron AC7AC
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Paul Christensen
Sent: Thursday, December 04, 2008 5:37 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Good afternoon,
After replacement pair of these resistors there are any changes in work
of a linear output?
Any results of changes in a graphic kind are welcomed. Thanks!
73! Alex UR5LAM
K3/100F #0568
___
Elecraft mailing list
Post to: Elecraft@mail
> "I would argue for the piggyback approach. Use a pair of "sprung" tweezers
> that can grasp the SMT resistor at a comfortable angle."
At first, I detested working with SMT parts. I slowly got over it and have
developed a certain comfort level but I almost need to meditate first as the
iron
I would argue for the piggyback approach. Use a pair of "sprung" tweezers
that can grasp the SMT resistor at a comfortable angle. (I use a 1/8 inch
chisel tip iron for almost all my work - gets in and out very quickly compared
to a smaller tip.) There is plenty of space around the two resisto
Ron AC7AC wrote:
For those used to working with SMDs, piggy-backing the new SMDs on the
existing ones is actually easier than using the leaded parts, and some
don’t mind cutting a circuit trace to save some disassembly and time.
We wanted to give you and everyone else the option to chose.
an.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Audio Upgrade Mod
Today I got around to installing in my K3 the audio upgrade kit that arrived
a couple of weeks ago. The first part of the kit involves swapping an RFC on
the main PCB with one that has a lower resistance. (FYI, I measured the
resistance of the origina
Today I got around to installing in my K3 the audio upgrade kit that arrived
a couple of weeks ago. The first part of the kit involves swapping an RFC on
the main PCB with one that has a lower resistance. (FYI, I measured the
resistance of the original choke as 0.4 ohms, and of the new choke as 0.1
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