Chris,
Go to my webpage www.w3fpr.com and scroll down in the left column to the
K2 Frequency Calibration article.
That should give you instructions on not only getting the dial
calibration correct, but also getting the SSB frequencies within a
proper range.
Note that the SSB audio frequencie
Hello,
I have a K2 with its USB off by about 1.9kHz. This K2 was built by someone,
and I am the third owner. How do I calibrate it? Moreover, the audio of
USB mode is a little harsh to my ears. Everything else seems working fine.
Thanks,
Chris KM1B
_
It was found to be a faulty KDSP2 module. Can anyone help me with
troubleshooting? The battery was checked OK, and there is no visible issue
anywhere. Any suggestions?
Many thanks,
Chris KM1B
On Fri, Jul 29, 2022 at 2:47 PM Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Chris,
>
> Do you still have sidetone? If so
After following Don's suggestions, the issue was found to be from the
failed KDSP2 module. I have replaced the KDSP2 with my extra KAF2 module
and got the audio back. Now, I have to troubleshoot the KDSP2 module. As
I am getting the audio on and off intermittently with the KDSP2, I will
check if
Chris,
Do you still have sidetone? If so Control Board U9 is still active, so
check the MUTE signal and CB Q6 and Q7 operation.
If you have the KDSP2 installed, remove it and install 2 wire jumpers
one between CB J1 pin 1 and CB J2 pin 1. The second jumper between CB
J1 pin 2 and CB J2 pi
A quick update on this. George, W1JHR, suggested checking the faulty
headphone jack. It could be an easy fix, but my case is different because
I don't get audio on the headphone jack either. The issue seems to be
somewhere on the AF circuit.
I get the audio back if I leave the radio turned off
Hello,
I have two K2/100, and one of them developed an issue last night. It
suddenly lost audio. The S-meter is working, and it transmits fine but no
receive audio. When I leave it long enough, the audio comes back
occasionally, then goes off. I get the same results from the headphones,
so the
I am new to the List. Just acquired a K2 am learning a whole lot! I would
like to
install the DSP Option in it because I am primarily a SSB operator. If
anyone has one to sell, please let me know. Shortly I'll be putting an
order in to Elecraft to be
able to purchase updates, mods, and options
Cliff,
There are two areas of the K2 transmit chain that have frequency
dependent components. The Transmit Buffer and the feedback loops from
collector to base of Q5 and Q6.
Check the soldering for the components connected to RF Board U9,
especially R94 and C150 on the bottom of the board.
This is strange,,
My K2 is now Transmitting Max 15W on 80M CW but power drops off as I go up
bands 6W on 40M about 3W on 30 and not much at all on the other bands.
What would cause a pregressive drop off like this , PA must be ok otherwise
I wouldn't be getting 15W out on 80M .
I have adjusted t
Ok fixed the no transmit problem Don,
Found a small solder bridge from the 8T Q1 Collector to ground at the mic
header.
So now it transmits but after aligning get low power about 5W on 80 40 30
and not much at all on the other bands.
So back to troubleshooting again. Disappointing. Dc Voltages a
Cliff,
If you have RF From the TX mixer, then the K2 is going into transmit -
U10 is powered from the 8T voltage rail and that only comes on during
transmit. 8R and 8T control everything.
Help me understand your statement that U9 shows higher voltages. My
guess is that pin 3 stays close to
Cliff,
In Tx mode, is the "8T" voltage at the junction of RFC13, C55 and Q20's gate
8 volts plus - minus a tad?
73,
Geoff
LX2AO
On January 03, 2013 at 8:17 PM, Clifford Hynds wrote:
Well I finished the K2 only to find no TX preliminary troubleshooting
seems
to suggest the T/R switch D6 an
Well I finished the K2 only to find no TX preliminary troubleshooting seems
to suggest the T/R switch D6 and D7 are not getting the control signal from
the control board, Also U9 shows higher voltages ,
Is there anything common that may be wrong, All bands peak fine on receive.
thanks for any ide
Ditto here with my K3/100, except that the Astron 20 recently developed a
bad habit of crowbar'ing when I get on 20 meters with the KPA500. Slams off
IMMEDIATELY on transmit with the amp. I guess it doesn't like 500+ watts @
20' (my vertical). Waiting for the KAT500, which will resolve that issu
I'm glad that switching to a bigger Astron supply solved your problem. I
would
note, however, that I've been running my KPA100 with an Astron 20 at the 100
watt level for the past year with no problems.
Best regards -
Bruce K1FFX
-
Bruce Rosen
K1FFX
K2/100 6982
--
View this message in con
Just to follow up on this for anyone who might be searching the
archives, the problem was traced to the power supply. It was undersized
and wasn't what everyone remembered it as being, and after being pulled
out from under the desk it turned out to be an Astron 20, rather than an
Astron 35.
On Mon
Hisashi,
The current indicated by tapping the DISPLAY button is the current drawn
by the base K2, and not the current into the KPA100. Your 2.5 amp
current at 10 watts is normal, as is the drop in current as you go into
the KPA100 "is on" stage because at low KPA100 power levels, the base K2
I just installed the KPA100UPKT about a month ago.
Just to be clear, as I turn up the power, the internal metering shows
1.5A while the external metering shows the current increasing as the
power increases.
I'll check the voltages around the diodes and the HV bias supply to
begin with. Thanks for
Hisashi,
OK, so that sounds like the KPA100 may be oscillating. First things to
check are the diodes in the T/R switch, the high voltage bias supply
(check during transmit too) and the operation of Q6 and Q7.
Is this the newer KPA100 design with blue toroid cores at L16 and RFC1?
If not, you
After getting the suggestions from Eric and you, I looked at the
metering I have already.
I don't think it's the SWR bridge because the power reading matches the
wattmeter on my MFJ-1788. It steadily increases and looks about the same
as what the K2 shows.
However, the voltage/current meter I get
Hisashi,
If by "reset" you mean the power turns off, you are most likely seeing
the internal resettable fuse trip.
Normally you would see a HiCur message too.
Usual causes for that behavior are either that the KPA100 wattmeter
diodes have been damaged or you have a damaged PA transistor in the b
I think I see HiRefl even though at lower power I saw lower than 2:1
SWR. I do have an SWR meter external to the K2. I'll look to see what it
tells me.
Thanks!
On Mon, 2 Apr 2012, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> Hisashi,
>
> If by "reset" you mean the power turns off, you are most likely seeing the
> inte
Hi Hisashi,
Could it be your power supply? It could either be hitting a max current limit,
or getting RF back into the supply. The latter is common with some supplies.
One other area to look at is the 12V power cord and fuse holders. If the cord
is too small, or the fuse holders are not making
OK, it's S/N 4355 with all the latest mods and it used to just reset
when I got on 15M phone. Now it's resetting on 30M CW while I'm trying
to work DX so it's bugging me. :)
Besides the standard checking for 10-year-old cold solder joints, is
there anything else to check right away?
--
Hisashi T
For reasons of convenience, the resistors are mounted on the antenna side of
the tuner. Since I'm tuning from 3.5 mHz through 15 mHz into a roughly 10.5
meter linear loaded dipole, the impedance in some instances is quite high,
thus the large value of resistors.
regards,
George
--
View this mes
George,
Thanks for reminding that we should keep those sweet K2s alive and in good
health. Typically, if you have your antenna attached to the K2 ANT connector,
the DC path through R67 & R68 (RF Board) won't allow a static built-up. But as
you already shared, the question is what happens when the
My recently completed K2, #7235, worked FB for two weeks. One evening, while
listening around the bands, I stepped over to my balanced feed tuner to
change taps. What I didn't realize was that a healthy static charge had
built up on my vertical linear-loaded dipole. When I reached for a tap I
dr
Please do compare opinions of The AF1 on the reflector too, gentlemen.
My recommendation was only *my* opinion even though it's based on many years
of pounding brass using such active filters going back to vacuum tube days.
I'm sure many others would like to hear other reactions such as yours a
notes when
they're built!
73 - Ken
VE3HLS
--- On Tue, 11/30/10, stan levandowski wrote:
> From: stan levandowski
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] My K2 in CQWW CW
> To: k.alexan...@rogers.com
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 8:18 PM
> On Tue
On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 7:38 PM, Ken Alexander wrote:
> Pure joy! I was search & pouncing up and down the dial with my K2 set
> up as follows:
---
Geez...great minds think alike,Ken! I j
Pure joy! I was search & pouncing up and down the dial with my K2 set up as
follows:
Attenuator: ON
AGC: OFF
XFIL: 100 Hz
AFIL: I think it's 100 Hz as well
...and riding the RF Gain control very carefully, keeping it just high enough
to hear my prey clearly.
It was unsettling how quiet the
Tom,
No parts should come off the KDSP2 module, so yours is defective. If
you cannot solder C2 back on yourself, I am certain Elecraft will supply
you with a replacement module - contact supp...@elecraft.com or for a
simpler and more direct route email pa...@elecraft.com and explain that
C2 f
ok, Thanks Don! I will try it tomorrow.
I didnt mean the hole DSP module came off just the surface mount cap C2 on
the DSPx module.
thanks again!
73
Tom-W7TMD
--
View this message in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/My-k2-will-not-stay-on-tp5166080p5166455.html
Sent from the [QRO
Tom,
If the KDSP2 module is plugged in all the way, it usually takes quite a
bit of force to remove it.
Back to your power on problem - the usual cause of that problem is a
short between the PA transistors and the heat sink. Measure the
resistance between the collector(s) of Q7 and Q8 and gro
Also I checked the astron and voltage looks good. and I checked F1 and it
gets super hot then switches everything off.So at least that's working
working.
While looking at the DSP Module C2 had come completely off and was
laying on the main PC board!! Looks like it just fell off.. How weird
Well, I had a thunder storm go through last night and now my k2 will not stay
on. It turns on for a few secs than the self resetting fuse turns
everything off.
I did not build the k2 so I'm afraid I dont know where to start to
trouble shoot.
thanks fer any help
73
Tom-W7TMD
--
View this mess
Hector,
And thanks to you for that glowing endorsement. I hope I can continue
to live up to it for some long time to come.
73,
Don W3FPR
Hector Padron wrote:
> I wanted to tell the group about my latest experience with Don Wilheim W3FPR.
> I got 2 months ago a fully loaded K2 in very clean con
I wanted to tell the group about my latest experience with Don Wilheim W3FPR.
I got 2 months ago a fully loaded K2 in very clean condition and even it was
working fairly well,it had some issues with bad alignment having the four
filters not well aligned plus excessive power output on some bands a
Thanks to all who responded... SOLD
Hi All, Would trade for a troublesome K3 (if there is such a rig). I
would like to sell it all at once for $1500 or Best Offer.
I have the QRP lid with KAT2 installed for easy QRP/QRO swaps. Meets
or exceeds full specs.
K2 HF Transceiver Serial 4011
KSB
Hi All, Would trade for a troublesome K3 (if there is such a rig). I
would like to sell it all at once for $1500 or Best Offer.
I have the QRP lid with KAT2 installed for easy QRP/QRO swaps. Meets
or exceeds full specs.
K2 HF Transceiver Serial 4011
KSB2 K2 SSB Option
K160RX K2 160M / 2nd R
JT,
Measure your rear feet. Perhaps you have the wrong ones - but I do not
know of other Elecraft products that use different size feet (although
the K3 may have higher feet).
I just measured 3 K2s with my shop dial caliper. My old SN 20 front
feet measure 0.430 inches and the rear feet ar
JT:
To give you another data point, I just measured my K2 (#5413) and it is
slightly *higher* in the front. With the bail not extended and measuring
from the bottom of the side panels to the tabletop at the front and rear.
Front Clearance ~15/32 in
Rear Clearance ~27/64 in
Both +/- eyeball
On 9/3/07, k4zm <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> It sounds like you have the bottom plate mounted 180 degrees out or have not
> installed the bail assy. The bottom should be installed so that the bail
> assy is located near the front of the K2. Also if mounted 180 degrees out I
> don't think you can
"All my friends know the low rider"
Seriously.
The front of my newly built K2 looks like a hot rod with dropped
spindles installed. This thing is seriously slammed down in the
weeds. I don't understand it but the rear feet are definitely taller
than the front feet.
How could I possibly screw u
James,
From what I have read, it all depends on the kind of thermal compound
that is used. If you rate them in terms of thermal conductivity only,
some are slightly better than the thermal pads and some are worse.
OTOH, if you rate thermal paste in terms of 'messiness', it is far, far
worse t
#5956
- Original Message -
From: "James Cutler" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Thursday, July 26, 2007 7:41 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] My K2/100 is up and running, first go :)
Just a quick note to say that I have built the KPA100 and installed and
aligned it, and it is work
Just a quick note to say that I have built the KPA100 and installed and
aligned it, and it is working fine on all bands. When I built my K2 at
the beginning of the year, it also worked fine, and still is. I have to
say that over all, I am happy with the radio, and it's performance.
I have one
On Fri, 15 Jun 2007 12:03:19 -0500
K9ZTV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The rig is indeed fantastic, but RF is RF regardless of what brand
produces
I beg to differ. While "technically" correct from a scientific standpoint,
what brand produces the RF from your rig could potentially make the
diffe
On Jun 15, 2007, at 11:51 AM, Gary D Krause wrote:
Oh come on Kent! :-) You are missing the point. I know it's mostly
about propagation but, when you build a rig yourself and it
performs better than your expectations, it's hard not to react like
a novice (which I am not) with your first c
Vic K2VCO wrote:
When I get the K3, I am planning to put the QRP lid back on my K2 and
use it for field operations. After all the building, modifying, and
experimenting that I've done on mine it's really an old friend. I can't
imagine parting with it.
My plans exactly.
73,
Fred K6DGW
- Nor
Hi Brian,
I totally agree. I enjoy soldering and trouble shooting also. I was just
trying to convey to Kent, that for me, it's more than that. I certainly
wasn't trying to say that it should be that way for everyone.
I probably should have changed the subject of my post to something like,
Julian G4ILO wrote:
(And yes, I can't see myself
selling my K2, even though I really don't have a use for two radios.
When I get the K3, I am planning to put the QRP lid back on my K2 and
use it for field operations. After all the building, modifying, and
experimenting that I've done on mine
On 6/15/07, Gary D Krause <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Oh come on Kent! :-) You are missing the point.
[snip]
Yep, for me there is a lot more
to ham radio than just technical stuff.
I have always felt that my K2 has punched above its weight as a QRP
radio. No rational explanation for it.
The
Oh come on Kent! :-) You are missing the point. I know it's mostly about
propagation but, when you build a rig yourself and it performs better than
your expectations, it's hard not to react like a novice (which I am not) with
your first contact. You may look at it as just progagation, a bunch
Gary
very FB. sometimes the missing 10-13 dB (2-3 S-units)
is not so big a loss on a clear freq, on bands where
you can get above the QRN.
when you have the itch for some SSB activity see who
is strong on 20m, and look for sporadic E on 10
meters.
it is not so hard to wire this rig up for P
Hi Greg,
It think there is a lot to that. I use to tell my art students that creating
a painting or drawing entailed the aritst putting part of himself or herself
into it. I think the K2 mojo is the same thing. I guess that means I could
never sell it, not that I want to, becuause, it just
I had a blast on 20 meters last night. The band was really bad and there were
very few weak signals. I installed the SSB board a couple of nights ago and I
wanted to test it out on the air. I called and called CQ most of the evening
but, no luck. So, I went to the CW portion of the band and
John wrote:
A module that would install in place of the ATU. Something simple to
measure SWR/PWR and have multiple ( two or three) selectable antenna
outputs. I can understand those who need a tuner, however many of us
I would have thought the easiest way of selling this would be as an
und
A module that would install in place of the ATU. Something simple to
measure SWR/PWR and have multiple ( two or three) selectable antenna
outputs. I can understand those who need a tuner, however many of us
don't (resonant antennas). I have 2 K2's with ATU installed in each
and I very seldom
I had a blast working the 2006 ARRL 10 meter contest with my K2. It is my
favorite contest of the year. Unfortunately I was not able to devote the
entire weekend to working the contest so I had to get little pieces of time
where I could.
Friday evening was exciting as we had QSOs until after
Well, I finished the KSB2 option, turning my bare-bones K2 into a K2/SSB. I
was expecting mediocre SSB performance. What I got was a pleasant surprise.
Modulation level - No problems driving the rig to full power output. I don't
have to shout, I just speak and the rig responds with RF output
I had my K2 on in my office at home while I did some database
programming/testing for work (I frequently keep a radio on just in case I
hear an interesting call). While debugging a complex section of
programming, I hear ES1QD. ES1QD? Estonia? I looked over at the K2 parked
on 7.010 and his sign
Steve,
If you want to have all the components that possibly could have failed
available, you could order one of every part in the K2 and the ATU transmit
chain!
For a more sensible approach, you must first do some isolation steps.
First remove the KAT2, then see if you have power out of the basic
Hello everyone,
During the alignment of the Top Band option of my K2 I did a stupid thing
and connected the dummy load to the wrong antenna connector. I used the tune
button and tried to align the filters to set the TX power using the power level
set to 2 watts. I got a high current warning
Yee-haa!!! Just received the great news that my K2 is
on its way to my builder. What with shipping & build
time, I'm guestimating I'll have the rig by mid to
latter part of July. Then let the Fun Begin!!!
Have also learned that one of the Hams in my radio
club will be using a K2 for the CW statio
Greetings to all!
I took the plunge and ordered a K2 (with Dayton
special) June 1, which I decided to have built by a
"professional" amateur kit builder (my kit skills
aren't all that good, and there're other family
considerations that keep me from even trying). I'm
number 1 in the que behind one
On May 25, 2006, at 5:02 PM, Hajo wrote:
in the display on the place of the mode indicator is alternativ
blinking the mode "c" and a "F". What does the "F" mean?
You're in the CW mode, but you have FPLY activated. Depending on how
you have it configured, that means that two or more of the
but I dont understand him.
in the display on the place of the mode indicator is alternativ
blinking the mode "c" and
a "F". What does the "F" mean?
I looked all over the manuals, but was missing the right line.
Thanks Hajo
___
Elecraft mailing li
Hi,
No controls working but the Power
control is an instant clue to the rig being keyed.
Good job.
73 de Bob K3YT
___
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Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
Subscriber Info (Addr. Change
About 1:30am morning I was monitoring 3.720mhz while programing. When
the audio just faded out then back in then it quit. When I moved over to
see what the problem was. A frequency was displayed but all the controls
where unresponsive. I turned it off . Then back on. The display worked
normal
ust 23, 2005 1:25 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] my K2 and its different frequencies.
Could it be you have an issue with the 8V internal supply ? Maybe on
transmit it is somewhere loaded too much so it will drop and the BFO will
also change slightly ? You could meas
-Original Message-
From: Carel, pc5m [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, August 23, 2005 1:25 AM
To: '[EMAIL PROTECTED]'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] my K2 and its different frequencies.
Could it be you have an issue with the 8V internal supply ? Maybe on
transmit it is
Merlin,
First, yes, be certain RIT and XIT are truly not active, then see if the
VBFO signal changes voltage (be certain you are in SSB mode) when switching
from transmit to receive - monitor control board U10 pin 14.
If it does change, I would venture a guess that the firmware THINKS either
RIT
Many thanks to all who answered, including those who helpfully suggested
that I might be using RIT or XIT without knowing it.
I just put a frequency counter on the BFO on my K2, and it changes about
70Hz when it goes from receive to transmit. Yeah, I know, there's not
supposed
to be any
I have just realized I had left out the KSB2 option the last
time I posted this - doh!. So I'm re-listing it.
SN 03597, non-smoking shack, fully operational with the
latest firmware and updates excluding the CW keying mod.
Options installed are;
KSB2, KNB2, KAF2, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, K160RX and
Hi Steve,
Good luck waiting for the stork -- I'm sure you'll have a lot of fun building
and operating your K2
Tom, WB2QDG
k2 1103
-- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Hi everyone:
> I put a post on the reflector last week regarding help from someone
Hi everyone:
I put a post on the reflector last week regarding help from someone in
Massachusetts to help build a K2.
I received alot of encouraging responses and I think I answered them all. I
just wanted to let everyone know that I ordered my K2 and it is expected to
arrive March 8th. I am loo
Web Williams wrote:
The problem I'm having is that when I key the microphone,
I get full-power carrier on my external wattmeter. CW works fine.
There's a capacitor you are supposed to remove on the RF board when you install
the SSB board. Did you remove it?
--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http
On Tue, 2004-07-12 at 01:00 -0500, Web Williams wrote:
> I also purchased the SSB module to go with my K2. Everything
> seemed to set up correctly. It made all the right sounds, all the
> right numbers show up on the display, etc. It decodes SSB signals
> fine. The problem I'm having is that when I
Web wrote:
I also purchased the SSB module to go with my K2. Everything seemed to set
up correctly. It made all the right sounds, all the right numbers show up on
the display, etc. It decodes SSB signals fine. The problem I'm having is
that when I key the microphone, I get full-power carrier on my
I also purchased the SSB module to go with my K2. Everything
seemed to set up correctly. It made all the right sounds, all the
right numbers show up on the display, etc. It decodes SSB signals
fine. The problem I'm having is that when I key the microphone,
I get full-power carrier on my external w
- Original Message -
From: "Gary Surrency" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: "'CSinfo'" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 01, 2004 5:42 PM
Subject: LA1PHA: RE: [Fwd: [Elecraft] My K2/100 wan't regulate down pow
Hi again fellows!
Last mail I said my K2/100 want regulate down power on lsb ,but usb sounds fine.
After some investigations I found this not to be true.
Here is what actually happens.
And Eric or Wayne!
I would like your thoughts on this also.
First !
My setup is :
K2/100 #3829
Butternut HF9V Gro
Thanks for everyone's help on this. I spent most of the day with a lot
of test equipment and I found out the following:
You can break RFC15 and have no DC going into U4, the Synthesizer PLL,
and the radio can mostly work. CMOS parts can get power from signals on
the other pins through the substra
Hisashi,
It sounds like the K2 may be too close to the power supply. Try putting
the PS 1-2 feet from the K2 and see if that takes care of the problem.
Tim Raymer
At 13:28 07/09/2004, Hisashi T Fujinaka wrote:
Last night I tried to get on the air with my new K2. The receiver
sounded great,
I had the same problem as you. However, the K2 was GREAT on the air. I
finally traced the problem to the fact that both were using the same power
supply (cured most of it) and to much transmit power - used a dummy load for
both the K2 and the 706 with the K2 at about 1 watt. As my XYL is a ham I
Last night I tried to get on the air with my new K2. The receiver
sounded great, and I heard lots of activity on 40M CW and 20M SSB.
However, when I tried to listen to my transmitter with my IC706, it
sounded raspy and nasty. Looking at the signal with my 'scope told me
very little (nothing visual
88 matches
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