On Nov 2, 2011, at 5:50 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
> On 11/02/2011 12:07 PM, Tom Easterday wrote:
>> Pleas tell me how you home an axis with 2 joints to an index pulse?
>>
>>
> The way commercial machines like big gantry boring mills do it is they
> have a swivel joint in the gantry. So, each tower of
Hi all!
Mpg by usb port works with emc2?
Is that the mpg:
http://www.hmcnc.net/products_accessories.html
Luis Andrade
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On 11/02/2011 12:07 PM, Tom Easterday wrote:
> Pleas tell me how you home an axis with 2 joints to an index pulse?
>
>
The way commercial machines like big gantry boring mills do it is they
have a swivel joint in the gantry. So, each tower of the gantry can move
independently without any bindi
That looks like it'll do it.
> And what would I need to go with it
safety glasses :-)
also, it looks like the nut is a separate part number, so you'll need
that, and if it doesn't come with the collet you'll need an ER-11 1/8"
collet, like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Products-Diameter
On 2 November 2011 21:17, wrote:
> Not being very machinist savvy hope y'all will not mind one more question
> Is this what I am looking for
> http://pdf.directindustry.com/pdf/hardinge-workholding/toolholder-collets-bushings-tool-holders/17884-13582-_19.html
> Part number 7997-60-08-002500
> An
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, Kirk Wallace wrote:
> On Wed, 2011-11-02 at 08:41 -0500, kqt4a...@comcast.net wrote:
>> On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, andy pugh wrote:
>>
>>> On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
>>>
That is my other option but I have realign my work
For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remo
Pleas tell me how you home an axis with 2 joints to an index pulse?
Tom
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Emc-user
Bruce,
On a bearing set:
I believe the preload will be correct without shims. I have rarely seen
preload changed/set with shims.
The outer rings are usually together between the rollers/balls.
On a shaft with bearings on each end:
assemble the components and measure the free play
calculate shim r
On 2 November 2011 16:02, Bruce Klawiter wrote:
> I have read conflicting information on how to install them.
Let me add more then
> It appears the best way would be installing them back to back, but I have
> read the inner rings should be clamped tight and also read the outer rings
> sho
I bought new bearings for the ball screws on my mill, SKF 7204 BECBP.
http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalogue/Forwarder?action=PPP&lang=en&imperial=false&windowName=null&perfid=123002&prodid=1230020204
I have read conflicting information on how to install them.
It appears the best way would be ins
On Wed, 2011-11-02 at 09:47 -0500, kqt4a...@comcast.net wrote:
> On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, Kirk Wallace wrote:
... snip
> > This ER tool holder could be used with a couple of bearings, pulleys and
> > timing belt to your existing spindle motor.
>
> Can you point me to a USA source for pillow-blocks good
On Wednesday, November 02, 2011 11:20:29 AM kqt4a...@comcast.net did opine:
> On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, andy pugh wrote:
> > On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
> >> That is my other option but I have realign my work
> >> For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remove a lot of material
> >> Then switch
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, Kirk Wallace wrote:
> On Wed, 2011-11-02 at 08:41 -0500, kqt4a...@comcast.net wrote:
>> On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, andy pugh wrote:
>>
>>> On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
>>>
That is my other option but I have realign my work
For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remo
On Wed, 2011-11-02 at 08:41 -0500, kqt4a...@comcast.net wrote:
> On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, andy pugh wrote:
>
> > On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
> >
> >> That is my other option but I have realign my work
> >> For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remove a lot of material
> >> Then switch to a 1
On 2 November 2011 13:41, wrote:
>
> I may have to make friends with a local machinist
> Could get pricey
You probably already know one, where is "local"?
--
atp
"Torque wrenches are for the obedience of fools and the guidance of wise men"
-
On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, andy pugh wrote:
> On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
>
>> That is my other option but I have realign my work
>> For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remove a lot of material
>> Then switch to a 1/8" bit then to a 1/16" bit to finish
>> If I change routers I have to hope I
On 2 November 2011 09:03, wrote:
> That is my other option but I have realign my work
> For this project I start with 1/4" bit to remove a lot of material
> Then switch to a 1/8" bit then to a 1/16" bit to finish
> If I change routers I have to hope I get the alignment correct
Do you have acce
On Tue, 1 Nov 2011, BRIAN GLACKIN wrote:
> One thing to consider is that the power to cut with a 1/8 endmill is
> dramatically less than needed for a 1/4 and 1/2 inch endmill. Why not
> consider swapping out your router with a decent electric long shaft die
> grinder - they give the collet size a
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