Willie via EV wrote:
I once blew a main fuse on my conversion. Didn't find any obvious
problems, replaced the fuse and never had more trouble with it.
Fuses are indeed affected by age, vibration, environment, and
temperature. So it could be just that the fuse got old and tired. :-)
They "blo
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine.
Aha; that's good!
I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
A fuse is just a piece of wire, carefully chosen to melt if you exceed a
certain current. So you can ma
On 12/31/2016 02:22 PM, Willie wrote:
On 12/31/2016 12:48 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine. I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
I once blew a main fuse on my conversion. Didn't find any
On 12/31/2016 12:48 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine. I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
I once blew a main fuse on my conversion. Didn't find any obvious
problems, replaced the fuse and
When I ran the motor off a 12 volt battery it was fine. I'll try
installing a spare fuse and see what happens after I put things back
together.
Jay
On 12/27/2016 02:42 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I really don't want to test by blow
Thanks. I've ran it with a 12 volt battery and it sounds great, no
visible arcing, etc.
So I still don't have a definitive reason why my HV Fuse blew. I also
didn't find any frayed insulation. I did find a slightly bad connection
inside an Anderson connector, but that would have increased resi
Jay Summet via EV wrote:
As I rotate the shaft by hand, the ohm meter goes negative (I assume due
to current/voltage being generated by the motion.)
Correct. There is always a little residual magnetism in the field, so
moving the motor will generate a voltage. This messes up any readings
you
On 12/30/2016 12:32 AM, Roland wrote:
Hello Jay,
Another test you can do, is take a ohm reading at the motor terminals.
Rotate the motor by hand and see if the meter shows a pulse as it
rotating.
As I rotate the shaft by hand, the ohm meter goes negative (I assume due
to current/voltage be
From: EV on behalf of Jay Summet via EV
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2016 8:25 PM
To: Robert Bruninga; Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Shorted FB1-4001A DC motor?
On 12/29/2016 05:42 PM, Robert Bruninga wrote:
> If its a DC motor, Try a 12v car battery and jum
On 12/29/2016 05:42 PM, Robert Bruninga wrote:
If its a DC motor, Try a 12v car battery and jumper cables to test the
motor.
I've verified that the motor still turns (can push the truck with the
transmission in gear) so I'm going to look at the brushes first and if I
don't see anything wro
If its a DC motor, Try a 12v car battery and jumper cables to test the
motor.
I had to move my EV project and nothing was working, so to get it from one
driveway to another, I just used a 12v battery in the pax seat and jumper
cables to the motor.
Lots of sparks and amps, but I was able to drive
On 12/27/2016 05:55 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I used a 18 ga lamp cord in place of the fuse and tried to spin the
motor in neutral.
Try a larger wire. Remember that 1400+ amp starting surge.
You might also try "pre-spinning" the
ge is prohibited.
-Original Message-
From: EV [mailto:ev-boun...@lists.evdl.org] On Behalf Of EVDL
Administrator via EV
Sent: Tuesday, December 27, 2016 2:55 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: Re: [EVDL] Shorted FB1-4001A DC motor?
On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV
I would tow it home then open the brush box and flush it with clean water and
check for foreign objects.
Maybe someone who has done it can comment but I would use a smallish 12v
battery to spin up the motor unloaded and see what happens. I believe DC motor
controllers often fail shorted so tha
On 27 Dec 2016 at 16:41, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> I used a 18 ga lamp cord in place of the fuse and tried to spin the
> motor in neutral.
Try a larger wire. Remember that 1400+ amp starting surge.
You might also try "pre-spinning" the motor to reduce the starting surge.
I wouldn't give up
I have a similarly sized GE motor, and it takes about 30 amps to run with no
load. However, it overheats my 30 amp power supply if used for too long, and
the motor needs about 50 amps to start turning. You can start them
with a 12v battery in parallel with the power supply for a few seconds if t
On 12/27/2016 02:42 PM, EVDL Administrator via EV wrote:
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
I'm a little hesitant to suggest this since there's some hazard from molten
copper snot if it lets go, but you might try replacing the fuse with a small-
gauge copper wire -- maybe #16
On 27 Dec 2016 at 14:31, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> I really don't want to test by blowing another fuse if there is a
> cheaper alternative
I hear you there! That's why I recommend a circuit breaker instead of a
fuse, or at least in addition to the (higher current rated) fuse.
I'm a little he
Hurm, that is interesting. I figured the 0.1 ohm was way too low, but if
that is in the generally correct range there is a possibility that it
was just a bad fusebut I really don't want to test by blowing
another fuse if there is a cheaper alternative ;>
How many amps do you think I should fu
I'm pretty sure terminal resistance is supposed to be 0.03 ohms so a normal
ohmmeter won't tell you much... How about spin the motor in neutral with a
(fused) 12V battery? Any signs of arcing on the commutator?
-Ben
On Dec 27, 2016, at 1:13 PM, Jay Summet via EV wrote:
> Today my HV fuse bl
Today my HV fuse blew, and after testing my controller, I believe the
problem is that my 9" FB1-4001A DC motor is shorted. The motor leads
are measuring at 0.1 ohm right now.
Anybody have suggestions as to anything to look at/for before I start
the process of removing the motor?
I may also
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