> I just built one... on 01005 disappeared with a "ping" of my tweezers
> (the tips of which actually dwarfed the component).
They've been re-christened "quantum capacitors" already.
> Still.. I cheated anyway, was using a x20 Binary microscope, x40
> sometimes
I use a x10 visor and x200 micros
On 1/29/07, Peter Clifton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
What diameter solder wire do people use? I was using a bent, pointy
metcal iron with an 0.5mm ish tip, and 0.5mm solder wire. (Some lead,
tin and copper alloy). I found that the solder balls up on the end of
the wire to the point where it can
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So it's possible to hand solder or reflow these things at home? Better yet,
can you do double sided SMT boards? I always thought you coudn't do it
because you would have to have components touching the surface of the reflow
skillet on one sid
> So it's possible to hand solder or reflow these things at home?
Yup. See http://www.delorie.com/pcb/hotplate/ for a photo of my
hotplate.
> Better yet, can you do double sided SMT boards? I always thought you
> coudn't do it because you would have to have components touching the
> surface of
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
So it's possible to hand solder or reflow these things at home? Better yet,
can you do double sided SMT boards? I always thought you coudn't do it
because you would have to have components touching the surface of the reflow
skillet on one sid
On Mon, 2007-01-29 at 21:03 -0500, DJ Delorie wrote:
> >I agree 100% here...I actually find through-hole soldering to be
> > more difficult and tedious than SMT now. All but the very tiniest
> > SMT parts can be soldered with a quality iron.
>
> Hey, *I* can solder even the tiniest ones. You
So it's possible to hand solder or reflow these things at home? Better yet,
can you do double sided SMT boards? I always thought you coudn't do it
because you would have to have components touching the surface of the reflow
skillet on one side while the other side was supposed to reflow. Also, am
>I agree 100% here...I actually find through-hole soldering to be
> more difficult and tedious than SMT now. All but the very tiniest
> SMT parts can be soldered with a quality iron.
Hey, *I* can solder even the tiniest ones. You get your challenge
board working yet? ;-)
_
On Jan 29, 2007, at 7:51 PM, Mark Rages wrote:
Unfortunately space is at a premium in laser tag guns, so
hopefully I can
make it work. I'm not sure I'd even want to attempt an SMT board
at home.
Reflowing sounds a bit tricky.
Hand-soldering SMT isn't bad, unless its the real teensy-tiny SMT
In general you don't want a solid connection between a
pad and plane - without thermal relief it is difficult
to solder the connection. So odds are you want a
thermal relief, which presently you must manually draw
for pads.
With that said, you can create polygons that have no
clearances (for anyth
On Jan 29, 2007, at 8:00 PM, John Luciani wrote:
If I only need a few (3-6)
MOSFETS, short of calling and asking for sample parts, what can I do?
If you have a school email address you can get free (or very low-
cost) samples
from almost any semiconductor manufacturer. For MOSFETs I would try
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
If I only need a few (3-6)
MOSFETS, short of calling and asking for sample parts, what can I do?
If you have a school email address you can get free (or very low-cost) samples
from almost any semiconductor manufacturer. For MOSFETs I would
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Unfortunately space is at a premium in laser tag guns, so hopefully I can
make it work. I'm not sure I'd even want to attempt an SMT board at home.
Reflowing sounds a bit tricky.
Hand-soldering SMT isn't bad, unless its the real teensy-tiny
> Unfortunately space is at a premium in laser tag guns,
All the more reason to go with SMT :-)
> I'm not sure I'd even want to attempt an SMT board at home.
> Reflowing sounds a bit tricky.
You can solder them with an iron too, if the tip is small enough. I
use either an iron or a reflow hotp
Unfortunately space is at a premium in laser tag guns, so hopefully I can
make it work. I'm not sure I'd even want to attempt an SMT board at home.
Reflowing sounds a bit tricky.
Oh. I haven't met the guy yet. However, there is a machine shop here at
school and I know the teacher who runs it. Per
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
A drill press? If that's how it needs to be done, I happen to live next to a
machine
shop, so I can probably ask them to drill the holes.
Unless you are good friends with one of the machinists they may charge
you more to drill the holes t
> Right. So the toner transfer method sounds like the one I ought to
> try. Is it fairly accurate for two sided boards? I'm assuming you
> guys mostly make two sided boards, so I suppose that's a yes, but I
> thought I'd ask anyway.
Actually, most of my boards are primarily SMT, so the ones I mak
Yes, I must have meant auto-place, which is a feature I have yet to try.
Right. So the toner transfer method sounds like the one I ought to try. Is
it fairly accurate for two sided boards? I'm assuming you guys mostly make
two sided boards, so I suppose that's a yes, but I thought I'd ask anyway.
I second the motion :)
I use luciani's as a base, then make the footprints not available. I use the
same naming convention luciani uses. It works for me quite well.
I add the line:
/home/lares/gEDA/pcb-elements/lares
at the end of my gafrc and project files, to ensure that my footprint
supers
Perfect. Thank you John and Phil. In spite of being pretty far along with
component placement, I hadn't noticed and tried that button yet.
Ed
- Original Message -
From: "John Luciani" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "gEDA user mailing list"
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 3:24 PM
Subject: R
I would really recommend learning how to create your own footprints.
Specifically, I would look at some existing newlib footprints and the
footprint manual and create your own footprints. I just finished up my
first board using gEDA and I am very glad I learned how to make my own
footprints. I actu
>Do you think the auto-router could handle a board like that on its
>own?
Maybe. I don't use it myself for my boards, because I can do better
and my boards tend to be cramped for space.
> Or am I going to need to route my own traces?
Probably, at least for some of them.
> I know the auto-rout
Wow! You guys are really, really fast. Thanks much!
So to recap:
- It looks like my best option here is to create "real" schematics myself
using the tech reference on the MilesTag site, and then lay out the PCB
myself in PCB. Sounds fair enough. Do you think the auto-router could handle
a board
John Luciani wrote:
In my PCB version there is a button labeled "far side". Clicking "far
side" makes
the components on the opposite side of the board invisible and
unselectable.
Version 20060822 has this feature. Also this version incorporates a lot
of user interface refinements over 2005
"Mark Rages" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes:
> The more structured approach of Bill Wilson's tutorial got me
> started, though.
Also, Stuart did a tutorial for Circuit Cellar some time ago. I hope
these tutorials haven't been completely obsoleted by all our recent
development work.
___
On 1/29/07, Ed & Angie S. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
At first,I was expecting the selection to only take components on the active
layer. Then I thought turning off the opposite layer would disable the
component selection on the opposite side of the board but that didn't work
either. I checked
I'm using PCB version 20050127 which is comes packaged with the stable version
of Debian (Sarge). When I select a group of components on one side of the
board using the mouse to draw a square with the select tool, components on the
other side of the board also get selected. Thus, when I move t
On 1/29/07, Jeremy Pedersen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
- And last but not least, could I write my own schematics (using the
schematics on the MilesTag site) and make my own PCB from this schematic?
(link to schematics: http://lasertagparts.com/mt5xx.htm).
Looking at that schematic, could anyone
On 1/29/07, DJ Delorie <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I have looked into gEDA and it looks very complicated at first
> glance, yet very powerful -- like most things under Linux :-) --
> what documentation should I peruse if I were to attempt this feat?
The FAQ has a few key bits about symbol and
> I am a second semester Electrical Engineering Technologies student
> at a community college. To get some practice with circuit
> prototyping/manufacture I would like to try my hand at printing a
> PCB layout for a laser tag system on photo transfer paper and using
> it to etch a PCB.
You've com
Hello everyone,
I am a second semester Electrical Engineering Technologies student at a
community college. To get some practice with circuit prototyping/manufacture
I would like to try my hand at printing a PCB layout for a laser tag system
on photo transfer paper and using it to etch a PCB. The
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1
Hi
> You may want to try using a digital camera to take a picture of the
> board or enclosure. Use image-magick/gimp to simplify and scale the
> image. You could then print out a piece of paper, verify it matches
> the enclosure and take your measure
Lares,
I believe that Gold Pheonix is board house used by Spark Fun electronics
(sparkfun.com)
I might also suggest Olimex. They're cheap and will panelize or combine
multiple designs on a single panel for free. Just make sure you use
their standard drill sizes.
-DC
Lares Moreau wrote:
I've had good luck with PCB Express (now called Sunstone) and
Advanced Circuits (4pcb.com) for quick-turn small quantity stuff.
I just got a board back from Advanced Circuits and they included a bag
of microwave popcorn in the box along with the 10 PCB's I ordered.
That made my day :-)
Of cours
On 1/28/07, Michael Sokolov <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hello fellow gEDA/PCB users,
I would like to fit my design into the form factor from an existing
gadget so that I don't have to invent my own mechanical design and can
utilise a ready-made enclosure. This means that I need to carefully
meas
Most bent sheet metal enclosures are toleranced to +/-0.015 inches. So
anything on a face of the enclosure at worst case will be +/-0.015 inches
off from the expected dimension. If there are bends between the mounting
holes then the tolerances will be greater(it's difficult to hold the
tolera
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