Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size buttons. Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and I'm wondering, has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period corsets and bodices? I've used

Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?

I tried an eyelet plate and found it nearly impossible to use on large garments like dresses with big skirts, because of having to spin the fabric around it. They didn't want to fit through the (mind blip, whatever the name is for that space between the needle part and the body of

Re: [h-cost] 14th-century woman's outfit

I've also been quite happy with Revival Clothing http://www.revivalclothing.com/ Also good fabrics (Linen, wool, a little more raw silk than I'd prefer), also pricy but worth it. Close to what you are asking for can be found at Historic Enterprises. www.historicenterprises.com. I

Re: [h-cost] book is confirmed!!!

Quoting Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED]: At 15:18 31/10/2008, you wrote: I just got my email from Amazon that my book is on its way!! Greetings from Amazon.co.uk, We thought you would like to know that the following item has been sent to: using Royal Mail. Patterns of Fashion 4:

Re: [h-cost] Fw: Fabric Advice

Bess, I don't know why I didn't realize you were on this list. I think a vinegar/water spray and brushing are a good start; it seems likely that the problem is over-pressing, rather than the actual cleaning process, which means the fibers are flattened and polished. The brush would raise a

Re: [h-cost] cleaning question

I'm wearing two hats here. 1. I've dabbled in silversmithing 2. I'm working on a degree in textiles. One way to clean oxidization off of silver jewelry is to soak it in a solution called pickle, usually a weak acid, usually heated. Some people use vinegar. Protein fibers are damaged by

Re: [h-cost] cleaning question

Yup. But a mild base isn't going to do a huge amount of damage. I wouldn't worry about it, honestly. If your silk is so fragile that soap is going to break it down significantly, you probably shouldn't be washing it, anyway. I have heard something about saris being given a final

Re: [h-cost] cleaning question

This, by the way, is why you should never, never bleach silk. A small vial of bleach is a handy way to distinguish silk from synthetic fibers, though. Silk (or wool) will dissolve completely. Emma Quoting Sharon Collier [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Thanks, I didn't know that about basic harming

Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing?

Well, she's nekkid at the moment, but I'm thinking of doing a pink and sparkly generic fairy for halloween this year, because I'm usually dark and gothy and thought something out of character *THAT I DIDN'T HAVE TO EXPLAIN* would be fun. Last year, I was a historic preenactor, inspired

Re: [h-cost] Help with OT Costume

So I don't have any ideas, it does not have to be historical, but I don't mind if it is. Help My brain hurts from trying to come up with ideas. I've been seeing everything through a steampunk lens these days, and I've been really digging Firefly, so my first thought was

Re: [h-cost] Moda a Firenze or Queen Elizabeth?

All other things being equal, I would buy Elizabeth and save up for Moda next time. Queen Elizabeth's Wardrobe has more of the wonderful details about who made what and with what tools; it's more of a snapshot of Elizabethan clothing industry, with an emphasis on Royal clothing. Hi,

[h-cost] more fur repair-whitening

While we're on the subject of furs, I have some ermine that has gone quite yellow. Is there anything I can do to bring it back to white? Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

[h-cost] fabric use brainstorming

I've been cleaning/reorganizing my sewing area, and have found myself wondering just how small a piece of fabric is useful. I have a bunch of high-quality upholstry reminants and samples. I have tons of linen off-cuts (actually, fewer since I gave all the tiny bits to a paper-making

Re: [h-cost] Journal of the Costume Society

Me, me, me! Emma Quoting monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Speaking of Janet Arnold-- Who is going to Florence in November for the Collequium? (Besides me and 3 friends, that is). Monica -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Saragrace Knauf

[h-cost] Farthingale thoughts

I was looking at the painting of Salome (top left, http://www.elizabethancostume.net/farthingale/history.html ) that is generally accepted as one of the earliest forms of farthingale/virtugarde/verdugados. I've heard the Look, first the hoops were worn on the outside, but very quickly they

[h-cost] What in the world? Odd 16th C. child's skirt

http://www.elizabethan-portraits.com/KatherineGrey.jpg What in the world is going on with that child's skirt? Did the artist decide after the fact that the skirt should be split, with a forepart? Would trim really have been applied diagonally and interrupted? Emma

Re: [h-cost] Janet Arnold Costuming Colloquium in Florence,

I'm combining it with thesis research. No, really, I need to go to Europe anyway! Would so love to go, but have a slight hitch in that am getting married in November... *sigh* :o) In a message dated 30/04/2008 20:43:42 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have met

Re: [h-cost] New Topics-- please!!!!!

Anyone have any recommendations for costume in and around Florence? I am thinking of side trips for the Janet Arnold Conference in November. No, but I'm planning on being there and would love to see a friendly face! Emma ___ h-costume mailing list

Re: [h-cost] Scanning prints

I seem to have missed the beginning of this thread. How big are the prints, and where are they located? I have access to an 11x17 scanner, in Lincoln, NE. Emma Penny wrote: These are the only original prints. They only see the light of day, when I show them to my college students. One

[h-cost] Edwardian men's fashion

A friend of mine is interested in learning how to make Edwardian-style men's clothing, and I'm having trouble finding references to help him. All kinds of women's patterns, all kinds of dressmaking books, sure. But not men's clothing or tailoring. O, wise listmembers, can you help?

Re: [h-cost] Director-designer professional standards

I hope we're not boring the non-costume designers on this list. I, for one, am finding it fascinating, and a reminder of why I didn't persue theatre after high school. Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com

Re: [h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves

I'm not familliar with the pattern you're using, but since you have a limited amount of time, here's what I'd do: Take one dress and finish the sleeves as if they were done correctly: gather the edge into a band. Hold it up. Try it on, if it fits. See if it looks and hangs like a

Re: [h-cost] Trying to fix botched sleeves

It depends on the shape of the sleeve. Most short, puffed sleeves I've seen have had a large convex curve at the sleeve head and a smaller convex curve at the bottom. If put in upside down, the sleeve will stick out straighter (more like a T-shirt, less like a suit coat) which may

Re: [h-cost] Source for medieval belts/buckles?

I also endorse Raymond. I know his work and his customer service and have been extremely happy with both. Emma Quoting Linda Rice [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Raymond's Quiet Press offers that rare combination of good, fast and reasonable price. www.quietpress.com

[h-cost] Mari to the white courtesy phone

Is Mari Alexander on this list? Emma ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume

Re: [h-cost] 14th C. hairnets

How very, very cool, thank you. Is this one woven (for lack of a better word) braid with spangles at the intersections? 2nd half of the 14th C http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z123/Castlegrounds/hairnets/c49.jpg emma ___ h-costume mailing

RE: [h-cost] Renaissance shirt question

Quoting Frank A Thallas Jr [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I don't use the neck gussets in my shirts, but I did have the same problem in the beginning, and my fix was pretty simple. When attaching the band of the collar, I use only about the center 1/3 of the band to gather/pleat the back of the shirt

Re: [h-cost] Whitening age-yellowed fabric

On a related note: What do I do about white fur that has yellowed? Bleaches are somewhat safe to use on celulosic fibers (cotton, linen), but bleach dissolves protein fibers (silk, wool). Furthermore, furs are difficult to clean, because immersion can be a very bad idea. But there's a

Re: [h-cost] white wool stockings

Not likely in the States, I don't know about Europe. I've had good luck with the wool over-the-knee socks from sockdreams.com though. Emma I am going to an event in Sweden in start of february the north of Sweden, where it usually is very cold for this season. I wondered if someone knows

Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume

One year I wore my prettiest mostly courtly/romantic looking garb to work on Halloween and everyone thought I was a nun. Today I had to wear some sort of costume since I'm on the social committee. I pulled out a peplos (ancient Greek) style dress and went as a goddess. No less than 5 people

Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume

Quoting Audrey Bergeron-Morin [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be something unusual to wear, from my perspective,

Re: cleaning an old quilt (was Re: [h-cost] Ideas for an old quilt

I figured that would be A Bad Thing! I at least knew that much. :-S It's in good shape -- physically, I think it would survive hand-washing. I don't want to do it if the dyes will run. I'd like to display it -- but I don't know if I'd *use* it or not. Also check out the International

Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?

Well, if I remember right, all history of underwear books tell you what a scandal it was when (was it catherine de medici?) in the 16th century started to wear drawers, inspired by the eastern countries. Then, it was actually the 19th century when drawers became common and were no sign of

Re: [h-cost] Costume brag books online

Quoting Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Dear h-costumers, Suzi's peacock feather cloak reminds me that I've been meaning to ask if anyone else has online costume brag books they'd like to share. I do, I do! It's not at all comprehensive, and is now a year out of date, but my online portfolio has some

Re: [h-cost] questions about linen and dyes

The blue--brown with bleach issue has me wondering if your blue is actually indigo, which (I believe, unless I have things backwards) turns yellow in basic solutions and blue again in acids. That might also explain why it's so very hard to remove. Try dipping your brown swatch in vinegar to

Re: [h-cost] straight/bias gore question

Interesting! I wonder if the problem I'm thinking of was originally a result of inexperienced sewing, which I misinterpreted as fabric properties. It's the sort of thing that I did years and years ago, thought huh, doesn't work and changed methods. With three responses that I'm interpreting as

Re: [h-cost] riding breeches

The fabric recommended is for 30% stretch in both directions. Would you cut on the bias in addition? I don't know that I'd reccommend cutting a knit on the bias, unless the pattern directions indicate. I'm having trouble finding local fabric that stretches enough in both directions. The

Re: [h-cost] Use of List

There are two sets of archives that I'm aware of: http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/ for more recent posts, and http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/ for older posts, though it doesn't seem to be working right now at this moment. Emma New member tot he list and I want to know if

[h-cost] Anglo-Saxon in a nutshell?

I will be attending an event with a theme of Saxons vs. Normans, later this summer. My husband and I have elected to side with the Saxons, but as this is rather earlier than my usual periods, I'm not sure where to start. How does Saxon dress differ from Norman dress of roughly the same period?

Re: [h-cost] embroidery question

You could use the same technique with fusible interfacing. Turn it like a pillowcase with the glue-side out, and you can then position and iron down your bits to be stitched by hand. Emma I've used Wonder Under when I was planning a machine satin stitch over the applique. I'm looking for a

Re: [h-cost] weirdish terminology question

Can anyone help me think of properly spellt English (sticking with that for now) costume terms from say, 1100-1650, that seem likely to result in wardrobe accounts, inventories, wills, etc? I would recommend looking in the OED for old versions of modern words. For example, Velvet: 1320,

Re: [h-cost] Re: was thread on spools in Eliz England?

Quoting Land of Oz [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This image is a little earlier than your request but it shows a sewing basket. http://tinyurl.com/2bcbfp I'm sure there is more symbolism in that painting than you could shake a stick at ... and I'd be interested in the whole story (off list) but if

Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.

For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny. There must be some sort of pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3 cm fan box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons. They do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing. How 'bout at the home or small

Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.

Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy- ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced ruffler arm. I used mine to pleat a medium-weight damask for a bed ruffle. Just

RE: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue

Wow, I'll have to see if I can find that, thanks. Have you used it? Emma Quoting Betsy Marshall [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This might help.. http://www.kk.org/cooltools/archives/001194.php hope you can find it in a local store.. Betsy ___ h-costume

Re: [h-cost] Best styles for tall girls - OT

Quoting WickedFrau [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Hi, this is OT, but I know you guys know a lot. I have been asked by an 8th grader who is over 6 feet tall to make a graduation dress. She doesn't really have any ideas of what she wants. Do you know of a resource which will tell what styles look

[h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue

A local interior design store is moving, and is selling off all of their outdated swatches, cheap. I picked up a bunch of nice pieces to play with, and I was wondering if anybody had any tricks for removing the glued-on lables? Some are so old that the glue has turned to powder and the lables

Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue

You know, I can understand your outrage, but this way actually is fine with me. If they just put the outdated samples out in a box, I would never have known; this particular place is off my beaten path. The iron seems to be helping loosen the glue, but if I let it get too hot it just soaks into

Re: [h-cost] fabric sample windfall--removing glue

I soaked one piece for several hours, the paper peeled off but the glue remained behind. Freezing seemed to work a little better, but the silk is so thin that it thawed out pretty quickly. (Makes me wish for some dry ice) You might try soaking them overnight first and see if the labels and

RE: [h-cost] Thread Twist

I've found the difference matters more for hand sewing than machine (but my sewing machines aren't picky), but handedness of the person matters as much as handedness of the thread. Every stitch I take, the needle is rotated slightly. After several stitches, the thread has a tendancy to either

RE: [h-cost] detachable sleeves

I love the woman in green in the back of the center one. Her sleeves are still attached to her bodice, but her arms aren't in them, and they're pinned (I assume) behind her, out of the way. Emma Quoting otsisto [EMAIL PROTECTED]: This might help with seeing some reasons for detached sleeves

Re: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves

Detatchable sleeves aren't totally unknown today: http://www.knitty.com/ISSUEspring07/PATTribena.html A forepart is a decorative panel of an underskirt that shows when the outer skirt is split open in the front. Quoting Kirsten Felton [EMAIL PROTECTED]: thanks for all the replies. that

Re: [h-cost] Circular cloak hems - what do you do?

Quoting Sylvia Rognstad [EMAIL PROTECTED]: I try to make capes the same distance from the floor all the way around. Time consuming, I know, because you have to measure it all around with the person wearing it. And the problem is that when wearing it later, it shifts around. ...which is

Re: [h-cost] Re: Dracula, was robin hood

Could it be as bad as Bram Stoker's Dracula...that monstrosity with Winona and Keanu? Like the New Yorker review said: They can't blame this mess on Bram Stoker! I read a theory at one point that the more of the original author's name is included in the movie title, the more the movies

Re: [h-cost] plastic fabric conundrum

I suspect it's not the plastic melting but the adhesive that holds the squares on. Would it be possible to sew only in the spaces between the squares? Emma Quoting Cin [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Gentle costumes, I got a note from a friend about an odd fabric, and, hmmm, I dont have any help to

RE: [h-cost] Questions re: Moda a Firenze

I would add to this: a lot of the sources are Italian, also, so if you want to track down the primary source for any of the information, it's going to be difficult. (On the other hand, the *primary* source would be in Italian anyway, so maybe it's great that the authors have told us where to

[h-cost] Moda a Firenze/at home in Italy

Along with Moda a Firenze as a major source for Italian Ren information, I would also recommend the book for the At Home in Renaissance Italy exhibition. Amazon has the hardcover for about what we paid for the paperback, which I've only seen at the VA gift shop.

Re: [h-cost] Messages history

Try the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/h-costume@mail.indra.com/ Or, for older conversations, the other archives http://sca.uwaterloo.ca/Fashion/ (If there are more, please let me know!) Emma Quoting Bonnie Booker [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Is there any way to get message history. There are

Re: [h-cost] anybody going to the British Museum?

Ooh, yes! And is there anything else I should look for while I'm there? I have a request for anyone who is going to be in London this month. Some of the photos I took when I went in November did not come out, and there is one beautiful south american jacket photo I particularly want to

Re:[h-cost] Research on medieval instrument cases?

This is completely NON period, but I would take a piece of pvc and put it in the pouch. This way, even if he sits on it, it would be protected. Completely covered inside and out, it wouldn't even be that noticeable. My first thought was of some of the scabbards in the Museum of London book,

Re: [h-cost] Re: gores in skirt in late Middle ages???

I would say a gore is a trapezoidal piece sewn to other gores to make up a complete skirt. Whereas a godat is a piece set into a slit made in a larger piece. In theory, you can slit your gores and insert a godet into them if you want. This all irritates me very much. You're the third

RE: [h-cost] World Record says 15??? was: Corset Training for 13

It certainly looks like it, yes. Or at least a metal corset cover. (I think there must be a laced corset underneath to cinch down the waist. I don't think you could use hinged metal to reduce the waist without pinching something tender) Emma Quoting Sharon at Collierfam.com [EMAIL PROTECTED]:

RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)

Suzi Clarke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I didn't know there was a sex machine museum in Prague! Gotta go there sometime:-)) We expect a full report on the corset when you do! (Honestly, if you're planning on going, I could come up with a list of questions for you to ask...) Emma

re: [h-cost] iron corset

There are various kinds of these things around. Of the most common pics I've seen are ones that are considered to be ceremonial or decorative wear -- not for everyday use or combat, -C. Speaking of decorative wear, another arguement given on these unreferenced sites is that these are

Re: [h-cost] Catherine's waist measure

Maybe the 13 was meant to be a hip-to-hip measurement, taken perhaps from a garment laying flat? A petite, yet grown, woman could have such a waist measurement. While that is possible, the sources that reference a 13 waist are all talking about circumference, and they don't actually cite

Re: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13

Thank you for sharing this. A 13 inch waist is not impossible, but I'd be interested in any pre-Victorian examples. (I'm not sure the waist training necessary for a 13-inch waist is possible with an Elizabethan-style corset. The shapes are profoundly different.) Emma Quoting Sonja [EMAIL

Re: [h-cost] Corset Training for 13

Does anyone have an actual copy of this book, who can check the footnotes? I've found an online version, but the notes are not given with the text. I've got one coming. It should arrive by the beginning of next week. Emma ___ h-costume mailing

RE: [h-cost] iron corset ( long-ish)

The story so far: Here is the specific block of text that really got my curiosity up, this is copied from en.wikibooks.org; it's one of the hits I got when I did a google image search for iron corset --copied text follows-- Iron corsets are Victorian Era corsetcovers made of metal. There are