On my '87 car, that's a hard clear line. Marking on the side says 8 x 1, so
I'll bet that means 8mm ID.
I presume a clear line will allow you to see air bubbles, mine are yellowed so
I can't see a thing, whatever you can get from FLAPS that won't leak should be
fine.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston
Very cool, father and son launch an iPhone and an HD camera into space.
www.brooklynspaceprogram.org.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
On my '87 car, that's a hard clear line. Marking on the side says 8 x 1, so
I'll bet that means 8mm ID.
I
Max wrote:
I'm not sure what you have is original. I'm pretty sure that line should be a
hard clear line. Have to look at my car and see what's there.
The worm gear hose clamps surely aren't original. It did seem a bit odd to have
fabric covered rubber on banjo fittings. It could be that the
Exhaust manifold nut, to be exact. Yesterday I put a few hours into re-assembly
of the timing case and head for my '87 wagon, and somehow one nut is missing.
If anyone has ready access, let me know off list please.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
On 10/7/11 11:36 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote:
Definitely more than noise - it's as if there are no shocks at all.
Replace 2 accumulators (Spheres) at the same time. Changing one at a
time is a waste of money. DIRT-FT
If there is additional leaking and loss of fluid, that is a separate
It is 7.5mm
I use the FLAPS stuff all the time. It doesn't not last as long as
the real stuff, but it is readily available in most towns.
I fired up the W124 today, and had fuel dripping from a fixture on
the side of the IP (lift pump?). The entire fabric covered hose that
connected it
Only what didn't fill the broken accumulator spheres went into the
engine, assuming the fluid was at the correct level to start with
I am not sure that is a safe or fair assumption.
I would recommend replacing the spheres, refilling the fluid, then
checking the level of the fluid to
Yes, the original on the OM 603s I have seen is clear from the lift
pump to the filter, clear from filter to IP and clear return from the
IP check valve to the filter housing
The braid covered hose IS OE type 7.5mm hose, but it is in a non OE
location. It works just fine, but you can't see
Q can get you one. Most of us have our nuts in use and are unwilling
to part with even one.
Exhaust manifold nut, to be exact. Yesterday I put a few hours into
re-assembly of the timing case and head for my '87 wagon, and
somehow one nut is missing.
If anyone has ready access, let me know
Yes, but is that line the same for a OM602, which is the engine for a '92 2.5?
I'll bet it is.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Yes, the original on the OM 603s I have seen is clear from the lift
pump to the filter, clear from filter to IP
First you will need a high pressure oil gauge and the connectors
to attach it to the suspension oil lines. The gauge needs a T
connection with a bleeder in the side of it. One arm of the T
goes to the level controller in place of the bleeder and the
other arm goes to the accumulator under
Yes, but I hate to pay a dollar or less for the nut and then $5 shipping. I'll
have to see if I need something else from Rusty.
Does a #17 head have inclined injection and different glow plugs than a #14
head?
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD
Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
Just a thought, but, have you checked to see if the crankcase oil level is
too high? Or perhaps it seems to be using a bit less oil?
How fast can the oil leak into the crankcase?
Mike
On Oct 9, 2011 10:06 AM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Only what didn't fill the broken accumulator
MG wrote:
First you will need a high pressure oil gauge and the connectors to
attach it to the suspension oil lines. The gauge needs a T connection
with a bleeder in the side of it. One arm of the T goes to the level
controller in place of the bleeder and the other arm goes to the
accumulator
Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net writes:
Exhaust manifold nut, to be exact. Yesterday I put a few hours into
re-assembly of the timing case and head for my '87 wagon, and somehow
one nut is missing.
If anyone has ready access, let me know off list please.
Dealer close by? Or MB specialist
The driver's seat in my 87 300D has had a twisted back since I got
the car. Today's project is the seat.
Q1: Are the passenger and driver's seat (above the mounting and
slides) interchangeable as are the 123?
I have a spare passenger seat that I can use for parts, but i'd have
to change
Same as a brake line.
Manfred
It sounds like you need a special fitting to seal against the
bleeder seat at
high pressure. Just think how much air leaks past the bleeder
threads when you
suction bleed brakes, and imagine doing it under full pressure.
Mitch.
Well, the USA models all have electric seats, and they are different
than the sketch in the CD section 91. There is a motor right and
left. What I would need to do is run the right motor forward to even
up the seat back. There is NO ROD connecting right and left.
Without diving into the
Anyone have a procedure for testing the vacuum control valve (VCV) on an
OM617? This is the white plastic assembly that sits on top of the
injection pump, above the shutoff valve. It is connected to the
throttle linkage, and I thought its function was to control the vacuum
to the transmission
The CD at www.w124performance.com only has wiring diagrams INDEX for
1993 on. No diagrams for the seats.
Well, the USA models all have electric seats, and they are different
than the sketch in the CD section 91. There is a motor right and
left. What I would need to
After more disassembly, I find I was wrong, there IS a rod. The left
motor runs the back, the right motor runs the headrest up and down.
At this point, it seems there is no way to pull or adjust the rod.
It also seems like swapping the back will not be the easiest as I did
not take out the
Howdy ya'll --
Speaking of wiring - I need to replace the steering wheel extend/retract
switch and cannot find the right PDF on the W124 WSM CD.
Anybody know the number of the PDF so I can print the instructions?
BTW, I found the PDF/Instructions for the Lower Dash Removal - it
'Just sent the seat electric diagram to you - page 148 of the pdf.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 1:53 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 124 seat
The CD at www.w124performance.com only has wiring diagrams
Allan Streib wrote:
Can anyone confirm that the plumbing sounds correct, or should the
transmission modulator line be connected to the VCV?
It doesn't sound right to me, but I'll check tonight and make sure. I have a
116.120, same model year as yours which shifts properly except for a little
On Sun, 09 Oct 2011 02:36:24 -0400 Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Very cool, father and son launch an iPhone and an HD camera into space.
www.brooklynspaceprogram.org.
Very cool, indeed.
Thanks,
Craig
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used
#'s 146 and 147 for the wiring diagrams; 'haven't found access instructions,
yet.
Wilton
- Original Message -
From: Larry l02tur...@comcast.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Steering Wheel Extension Butt
Those darned squirrels are at it again! This time of year, you've got to
hide any nuts that may be carted off and stored for the winter!
Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search list
All:
I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres! Seems to ride better now. I
have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the suspension
holds its height. Could the struts be leaking internally?
On Sat, Oct 8, 2011 at 8:59 PM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
Please tell
andrew strasfogel wrote:
All:
Could the struts be leaking internally?
Not unless their dust boots can hold a liter each without leaking.
The hydraulic pump can leak into the engine's sump, however.
Mitch.
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used
On Sun, 9 Oct 2011 17:50:54 -0400 andrew strasfogel
astrasfo...@gmail.com wrote:
All:
I was dry on fluid - added nearly 2 litres! Seems to ride better now.
I have no idea where the fluid went as there are no leaks and the
suspension holds its height. Could the struts be leaking
Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net writes:
It doesn't sound right to me, but I'll check tonight and make sure. I
have a 116.120, same model year as yours which shifts properly except
for a little flaring on one shift, and I have the update supplement to
the w116 shop manual that was issued when the
Is a 124 switch the same as a 201?
I think I still have the ones from my '85 190D. I'd bought those from Q not all
that long ago, 2005 I guess.
-Curt
Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 13:46:10 -0500
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] 124 seat
Message-ID:
Dunno. It IS different than a 126.
I reassembled the seat without the drive cable so I can adjust the
headrest manually. I don't need the new switch, but thanks for
thinking of me.
Is a 124 switch the same as a 201?
I think I still have the ones from my '85 190D. I'd bought those
from
I figured out how to run the seat motor to adjust the back tilt from
the seat back electric harness. It is the two big pins in the plug.
on this seat the tilt has one harness and the headrest has a separate
harness. On the donor seat, the headrest had one cable and the back
tilt was two
Thanks, Where did you find the diagram? Is it in the cd and I just
could not find it?
The pdf you sent is the circuits before the switch. I needed the
wiring at the seat itself, and inside the seat. But for now, I
figured out enough to get by.
'Just sent the seat electric diagram to you
There are two black lines coming off the vacuum control valve. One
goes
down to the transmission, and it holds vacuum. Another line runs from
the front of the valve back through the firewall. It does not hold
vacuum, and I'm not sure what it's for.
The VCV operates as a controllable leak,
The driver's seat in my 87 300D has had a twisted back since I got the
car. Today's project is the seat.
You need to re-phase the left and right side gear quadrants.
On the manual seats, it's the rod you slip out of one side.
Run both sides back to their stops, then reconnect things.
Electric
The real question is HOW they get out pf sync in the FIRST place...
Walt
On Oct 10, 2011 1:04 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:
The driver's seat in my 87 300D has had a twisted back since I got the car.
Today's project is the seat.
You need to re-phase the left and right side
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