You have to CATCH the plastic cod first!
Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
Will it be obvious that the plastic cod is excessively worn?
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Transmission mount or possibly a flex disk.
Dead engine mount will generate a knock too when the mount is empy and flat
after the fluid leaks out.
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Grant wrote:
* Pull the head, fill the cylinders with vinegar, let it set for a couple
days. vinegar will dissolve cylinder rust nicely... enough to "unstick it"
. Then, pull the engine, do a complete tear down, hone the cylinders
smooth... new rings, clean up everything. Seal it up and drive it
OK, here's what I would do. Buy for $1200 and drive it daily, fixing it
gradually for a couple years before sending it for a repaint and total
restoration. By then it will be worth THOUSANDS.
On Fri, Sep 28, 2018 at 11:47 PM Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> 190c 4
plastic CORD.
On Sat, Sep 29, 2018 at 11:56 PM Andrew Strasfogel
wrote:
> The silicon spray doesn't do anything.
>
> Will it be obvious that the plastic cod is excessively worn?
>
> On Sat, Sep 29, 2018 at 9:18 AM MG via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>> What kind of noise?
>>
>> Did you take the thing ap
The silicon spray doesn't do anything.
Will it be obvious that the plastic cod is excessively worn?
On Sat, Sep 29, 2018 at 9:18 AM MG via Mercedes
wrote:
> What kind of noise?
>
> Did you take the thing apart and see the
> clutch slipping to make your diagnosis. If
> not then you might want to
Flex couplings? Bad motor/trans/diff mounts can cause strange things too.
Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:
Took a little drive on the highway, couldn't detect any noise by weaving
back-n-forth. Tried a hard acceleration from a stop and turning right, and
have the same noise as when turning le
Took a little drive on the highway, couldn't detect any noise by weaving
back-n-forth. Tried a hard acceleration from a stop and turning right, and
have the same noise as when turning left, so .
Last weekend I pulled a trailer with The White Whale, and then I had the
knocking noise during any
Possible. The eldest son’s W124 diesel (95 E300D) had a really weird knock
that did not correspond to any particular speed or driving type which ended up
being the center bearing mount. Strangest thing I’ve ever seen/heard.
Definitely worth a look.
-D
> On Sep 29, 2018, at 5:05 PM, Max Dill
Installed that axle Wednesday night, but the knock from the rear of the car
remains.
The knock is most pronounced when the car is fully warmed up, during a hard
acceleration from a stop while turning left. Knock frequency is low and
regular, and increases with engine speed. I'm thinking may
Reasons why I didn't call the utility yesterday:
1. They might blow me off. I guess that's not really a reason, at worst I
wasted a phone call.
2. They might come out, say no problems found, hand me a bill for the service
call, and leave.
3. They might find the problem is in my wiring, red-tag
Why not rebuild the engine that is stuck?
Pull the head, fill the cylinders with vinegar, let it set for a couple
days. vinegar will dissolve cylinder rust nicely... enough to "unstick it" .
Then, pull the engine, do a complete tear down, hone the cylinders
smooth... new rings, clean up everythin
That would not give me a feeling of confidence relative to the electrical
system in my house…
If there are high resistance connections in the system, they can be “seen” by
someone using a FLIR camera.
I would seriously consider speaking with your utility company, if only to go on
record regard
> On September 29, 2018 at 9:23 AM MG via Mercedes
> wrote:
>
>
> Possibly. Or the sudden load caused a little
> bridging spark weld that may give way with a
> larger load or the larger load could produce
> an even better bridge that will last a bit
> but cause heat wherever that weak con
Yeah but they're cheap.
fmiser via Mercedes wrote:
Grant wrote:
Dead short: Install solid copper link instead of a fuse, and
watch for the smoke. What's so hard about that?
Rick wrote:
There.
I fixed it.
That is not a fix!! Why, what a stupid way to solve the problem!
Those ju
Possibly. Or the sudden load caused a little
bridging spark weld that may give way with a
larger load or the larger load could produce
an even better bridge that will last a bit
but cause heat wherever that weak connection
is when subjected to higher amps?
MG
Who knows that electricity is we
603 turbo would work fine (or a 602). M117 is a no go, the master cylinder and
the left valve cover occupy the same space.
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What kind of noise?
Did you take the thing apart and see the
clutch slipping to make your diagnosis. If
not then you might want to do that. A more
usual cause for that symptom is that either
the plastic cord is worn down too much or
more usually at the age these things are now,
the little t
It says number of cylinders 6.
Oh, and I see a pic of a M130 under the hood.
How hard would it be to put Peter's 4.5 in there?
Or my OM602 turbo?
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