PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, June 22, 2008 9:09 PM
To: mercedes Mailing List
Subject: [MBZ] 190D ac
OK, screwing around with the AC a little this evening on the 190D.
Think I have some mice wiring issues still to work out on that. But
OK, screwing around with the AC a little this evening on the 190D.
Think I have some mice wiring issues still to work out on that. But,
shouldnt applying positive power to the red wire and negative to one of
the other 2 wires kick the clutch in when hooked directly to the
compressor? Tried it
> Ok, i gave it a go, and no go. Jumpered the wires, nothing. Am
> getting
> 12 volts to the relay. So, I assume either the wire to the compressor
> is bad or the compressor is bad. On the compressor end, which of the
> wires would you apply power to to see if the compressor kicks on from
> t
Mon, 16 Jun 2008 2:42 pm
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D klima
Ok, i gave it a go, and no go. Jumpered the wires, nothing. Am getting 12
volts to the relay. So, I assume either the wire to the compressor is bad or
the compressor is bad. On the compressor end, which of the wires would you
The one that doesn't read zero ohms to ground ---
On Mon, Jun 16, 2008 at 4:42 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Ok, i gave it a go, and no go. Jumpered the wires, nothing. Am getting
> 12 volts to the relay. So, I assume either the wire to the compressor
> is bad or the compre
Ok, i gave it a go, and no go. Jumpered the wires, nothing. Am getting
12 volts to the relay. So, I assume either the wire to the compressor
is bad or the compressor is bad. On the compressor end, which of the
wires would you apply power to to see if the compressor kicks on from there?
Jim
If you are looking to replace with the original size, you will find
that on the lower door post on the drivers side.
On 6/16/08, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jill called from her road trip yesterday, she'd lost a tire
> and was asking if we had a spare. Yes, look in the trunk!
> Fun th
Jill called from her road trip yesterday, she'd lost a tire
and was asking if we had a spare. Yes, look in the trunk!
Fun thing to have to do on the side of the freeway.
Anyway, looks like she'll be buying a new set of tires on
the road, so to speak, and she's currently riding on three
different
thanks, will give it a go
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Trying to get the AC going on my 190D. Compressor not kicking in.
>> Which
>> 2 pins are you supposed to jumper on the klima relay to see if the
>> compressor kicks in? Have done all this on a 126, but dont have the
>> 201
>> info.
>
> Our 190D u
> Trying to get the AC going on my 190D. Compressor not kicking in.
> Which
> 2 pins are you supposed to jumper on the klima relay to see if the
> compressor kicks in? Have done all this on a 126, but dont have the
> 201
> info.
Our 190D uses exactly the same Klima as our SDL. So that should
Trying to get the AC going on my 190D. Compressor not kicking in. Which
2 pins are you supposed to jumper on the klima relay to see if the
compressor kicks in? Have done all this on a 126, but dont have the 201
info.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 3
"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
>
> I bet its a frankencar, I didnt see a vin on the auction though.
VIN:WDBDA24D7GF200323
Vehicle:1986 MERCEDES-BENZ 190E 2.3
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For u
I bet its a frankencar, I didnt see a vin on the auction though.
Mitch Haley wrote:
> I like this question from a potential bidder:
> THE VIN SAYS THIS IS A 4 CYL GAS JOB.
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.
I like this question from a potential bidder:
THE VIN SAYS THIS IS A 4 CYL GAS JOB.
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This doesnt look right. They didnt have these in 86, it also doesnt
have the proper RF fender. Wonder if its homemade?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-190-Series-1986-Mercedes-Benz-190d-2-5-Turbo-Diesel_W0QQitemZ120271682206QQihZ002QQcategoryZ6328QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewIt
> really, there are no 2.5 (NA) 5 speeds? You sure about that?
No. But mine's the first I've seen, and I had to make it.
-- Jim
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I see in the TDM that there are specs for manual tranny 201.126 (2.5)
cars in the US in '86 & '87, but not in '88 or '89.
I see fuel consumption specs for the 2.2 in 4sp, 5sp, and auto; the
2.5 in 5sp and auto. Countries aren't specified in this table.
On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 10:05 PM, Mitch Haley
"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
>
> really, there are no 2.5 (NA) 5 speeds? You sure about that?
I think they are fairly common, right up there with 2.6 5 speeds and hens'
teeth.
Actually, I wouldn't be surprised if 5% of the 2.5s were 5 speed. Probably
more like 2% for the 190E 2.6. Where's Marsha
really, there are no 2.5 (NA) 5 speeds? You sure about that?
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> the numbers form the TDM are all for auto tranny cars.
>
> 'cause the only 2.5 manuals are home-built. (At least in the USA.)
>
> -- Jim
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
>
> the numbers form the TDM are all for auto tranny cars.
'cause the only 2.5 manuals are home-built. (At least in the USA.)
-- Jim
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the numbers form the TDM are all for auto tranny cars.
On Sat, Jun 7, 2008 at 5:19 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> wonder what an auto would get. I have a 2.2 right now, and with my old
> 2.2 auto I got about 36 with it. Fixing to go get a 86 2.5, just
> wondered what it would
> wonder what an auto would get. I have a 2.2 right now, and with my old
> 2.2 auto I got about 36 with it. Fixing to go get a 86 2.5, just
> wondered what it would do
Ours used to get 42 on highway trips. It's now down in auto
territory IMHO. On the plus side it doesn't vomit gouts of
oil dow
wonder what an auto would get. I have a 2.2 right now, and with my old
2.2 auto I got about 36 with it. Fixing to go get a 86 2.5, just
wondered what it would do
Jim Cathey wrote:
>> What kind of mileage does the 2.5 get?
>
> Ours, with a stick, is getting about 33 in town,
> and 39 on the hi
> What kind of mileage does the 2.5 get?
Ours, with a stick, is getting about 33 in town,
and 39 on the highway. That's low, I think the
timing is a bit off.
-- Jim
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2.2 - 72hp - 2601lb TDM says 7.5 city, 5.6 @90km/h & 7.3 @ 120km/h.
0-100km/h=18.6sec, max speed=97mph
2.5 - 90hp - 2712lb, TDM says 8.3 city, 6.0 @90km/h & 7.7 @ 120km/h.,
0-100km/h=15.1sec, max speed - 105mph -
For comparison, the 300D 2.5 turbo is rated at 9.2city, 6.0 @90km/h &
7.9 @ 120km/
How many hp is the 2.2, how many is the 2.5? What kind of mileage does
the 2.5 get?
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 89 560SEL,
89 260E, 87 300SDL, 86 560SL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
76 300D,
> It's better to charge it than drive around with vacuum in it, I think.
I agree, but circumstances conspire...
I didn't want to charge it, or begin to, until I had the
filtration business figured out. I got another hour on
the vacuum pump this morning. Jill just drove off in the
car again.
--
Ah, I see. If the system is still down where it's supposed to be,
charge it. I dump the first can of freon into the high side with the
compressor off -- attach and puncture, bleed line, invert can and
drive the liquid right in. Wait a minute or so for it to equalize
and start dissolving
> Leaving it at vacuum and having it drop to 23" means one of two
> things -- there is some water in the dessicant (most likely) or
You misunderstand, the _gauge_ set dropped to 23". It was
lying on the freezer at the time. My wife was off driving
the car. I think the car's system is plenty int
I'm having this done today on my 300D with a bad compressor. It's
required for a new compressor warrentty, and I'd not put a new (or
repaired) compressor in without one. There is no way to remove the
crud from a parallel pass condenser or evaporator, especially the
evaporator, and sooner
Monday morning I sucked the AC system out, but didn't have
time to do more. (And it's a bit cold to do the charging.)
I also put in about 130ml of R12 oil. This, as some may
recall, is the car that had its pump seize up and which
I un-seized and reassembled. The quantity of oil is that
specified
TECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 10:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D goes to town
light comes on with key, but goes out when engine is started. Lots of
mice turds in the trunk, will check it out
Peter Frederick wrote:
Maybe the secret to the 190D fuel economy is it's really a hybrid.
Diesel/mouse wheel.
On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 1:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> light comes on with key, but goes out when engine is started. Lots of
> mice turds in the trunk, will check it out
>
> Peter Fred
light comes on with key, but goes out when engine is started. Lots of
mice turds in the trunk, will check it out
Peter Frederick wrote:
> Does the low fuel light come on? I'm guessing not, or you'd have put
> a gallon or two in first.
>
> Loose, broken, or mouse-eaten wire -- check the groun
Does the low fuel light come on? I'm guessing not, or you'd have put
a gallon or two in first.
Loose, broken, or mouse-eaten wire -- check the ground somewhere in
the left rear fender, probably near the taillight.
Peter
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For ne
they might have chewed the wires back there.
OK Don wrote:
> Impressive - I mean getting Regina to drive the SDL again!
> Fuel sender sounds like more mouse work --
>
> On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>> I changed the oil and fuel filters on the 190D
Impressive - I mean getting Regina to drive the SDL again!
Fuel sender sounds like more mouse work --
On Sun, May 18, 2008 at 7:48 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I changed the oil and fuel filters on the 190D today, vacuum all the rat
> turds out of the car, put the exhaust bac
I changed the oil and fuel filters on the 190D today, vacuum all the rat
turds out of the car, put the exhaust back together and take off toward
town to fill it up with diesel. It of course runs out about a mile from
the house. I thought ahead and brought a diesel can in case it did run
out.
During WW2 my granddaddy grew 40 acres of the stuff, everybody was
working too hard to smoke it.
--R
Alex Chamberlain wrote:
> On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 2:38 PM, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> A local fellow comes in once and a while to have documents notarized. He
>> runs a hemp
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> http://tinyurl.com/62fzxv
> No affiliation, etc.
> Donald H. Snook
---
FWIW: Got the following message from Zonealarms Spyblocker when I tried to
access the above link:
"ZoneAlarm has found
On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 2:38 PM, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> A local fellow comes in once and a while to have documents notarized. He runs
> a hemp oil plant south of town. Has
> struggled to get permission to export to various places due to the connection
> that folks make to less l
of use is grown.
Don't want to supplant the corn fields
that feed the cows we put on the BBQ.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Alex Chamberlain
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 3:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ]
R A Bennell wrote:
> No I am aware of the differences. I suggest the party placing the ad
> is the one who confuses the issue (perhaps deliberately).
No argument from me then :)
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On Thu, May 15, 2008 at 2:06 PM, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>Biodiesel is of no real advantage to anyone unless and until they find a cheap
>and easy way to make
> it out of some weed that grows naturally in the ditches along the highway.
It's called hemp, I think.
__
highway.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of John Robbins
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 2:29 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D 2.2 manual on Ebay
R A Bennell wrote:
> WHY does every ad for a diesel suggest bio-die
R A Bennell wrote:
> WHY does every ad for a diesel suggest bio-diesel I assume when
> they say that they are suggesting garbage oil so it will be cheap (
> and will ruin what was a nice car ). If someone suggested they
> planned to do that to my poor old MB, I wouldn't sell it to them. I
> wou
e who planned to treat
it right.
Randy
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 1:47 PM
To: 'mercedes@okiebenz.com'
Subject: [MBZ] 190D 2.2 manual on Ebay
http://tinyurl.com/62fzxv
No affiliation, etc.
http://tinyurl.com/62fzxv
No affiliation, etc.
Donald H. Snook
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http://okieb
The 5speed was a heck of alot easier to find in the gassers and is more
or less a direct swap over. A 190D 2.5 turbo with a blown auto tranny
would make my year.
-Rolf
Christopher McCann wrote:
> data below from: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html
>
> which ones had a 5 SPEED MANUAL?
>
> I
thanks!
cm
Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Christopher McCann wrote:
>
> data below from: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html
>
> which ones had a 5 SPEED MANUAL?
>
> I believe the 2.2 had both 4 and 5 speed. I don't know about the 2.5 NA...and
> the turbo would obviously be a
Christopher McCann wrote:
>
> data below from: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html
>
> which ones had a 5 SPEED MANUAL?
>
> I believe the 2.2 had both 4 and 5 speed. I don't know about the 2.5 NA...and
> the turbo would obviously be automatic only.
I've never seen a 190d 2.2 or 2.5 mann
data below from: http://home.hiwaay.net/~gbf/mbmodels.html
which ones had a 5 SPEED MANUAL?
I believe the 2.2 had both 4 and 5 speed. I don't know about the 2.5 NA...and
the turbo would obviously be automatic only.
Thanks!
Chris
201.122 601.921 190D 2.2 1984-86
> Fairly small pocket of liquid I imagine?
A few tablespoons in this case. When it got too murky
to see through I'd just slop more water over it with
the bucket and have a look to see if I was done. If
not, drop in another pinch of soda and come back later.
I bought a bunch of bricks of modelin
old it up there. I'm very excited
about this idea...
-Curt
Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:54:31 -0700
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=f
> Did you just do what I think you did? I'd love to see a picture of
> this.
Didn't take one, unfortunately. The positive wire has to 'see'
the rust, so it can't do anything about under-paint bubbling.
This was a big patch out in the open where I think there was
an in-storage drip onto it over a
: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed
I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
the shifter surround and refreshed
Rolf wrote:
> That is brilliant.
http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/index.html
I highly recommend the Chicken Wagon & Frankenheap sagas.
John
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That is brilliant. I have a few rust spots on the wifes wagon and will
use this method. It should be noted that removing the battery cables is
probably a good idea here :)
-Rolf
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
> the shifter surround and r
I replaced the glued tow-hook cover, it looks good. I then pulled out
the shifter surround and refreshed my memory, there are two Becker
plugs for the rear speakers I'd put in there to be disconnected when
the JVC is in place. So I did that. Since I was there I popped the
bottom off of the flash
> In the two or three times I've had to take advantage of it in the 40
> years
> I've had my Craftsman rachet, they've given me a box of replacement
> innards. I take the old innards out and put the new innards in.
Dropped by Sears today, and they had a replacement (refurbished)
that looks a lot
> See of you can find a supply of citric acid somewhere (you need about
> 2.5 lbs) and do a citric acid flush -- will clean things out much
> better than plain water or cheap coolant.
Yes, I've done this before. Unfortunately the baking supply
house I got it from before has closed their doors to
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:16:21 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> I drained the coolant again and re-filled it with water. I then
> removed the crap battery, returning it to the generator, and put in
> the new Group 49 battery I'd bought last year. (It's been on a tender
> this entire ti
On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:30:08 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> It all went fairly smoothly, except that my Sears ratchet wrench finally
> gave up. (While trying to fix it to keep the release button from
> falling out I managed to lose something, I guess I'll check out that
> lifetime w
This sounds much better! Remember, the engine can actually RUN with
the pump 180 degrees out -- so long as the timing is fast, there will
be fuel in the cylinders and it will ignite. Won't run well, though!
Thanks for the hint on the tool, I may make one to set the timing on
my brother's S
I drained the coolant again and re-filled it with water. I then
removed the crap battery, returning it to the generator, and put in
the new Group 49 battery I'd bought last year. (It's been on a tender
this entire time.) I bolted it down using the hold-down plate I found
under the tray. Then I
Friday I removed the vacuum pump, chain tensioner, intake manifold,
and injector lines. I also removed the lift pump from the injection
pump, saving some fuel spillage and affording a later opportunity to
re-prime the system with it. I then turned the engine over to the
lock position, 15 degrees
Thanks, Rick and Jim!
Brian
On Sat, Mar 8, 2008 at 3:45 PM, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > On that note, anybody know why the 201 repair manual CD would not work -
> in
> > terms of the table of contents setup it has? I click on a link and
> nothing.
> > So I am left opening the dozen
> On that note, anybody know why the 201 repair manual CD would not work
> - in
> terms of the table of contents setup it has? I click on a link and
> nothing.
> So I am left opening the dozens of non-descript pdfs hoping one will
> have to
> do with the cooling system.
The 201 CD is unlike the
> On that note, anybody know why the 201 repair manual CD would not work - in
> terms of the table of contents setup it has? I click on a link and nothing.
> So I am left opening the dozens of non-descript pdfs hoping one will have to
> do with the cooling system.
Sorry Brian, I 'spose I should've
On the repair manual CD question: nevermind - I found the way to locate the
pdfs I need on the CD.
Brian
On Sat, Mar 8, 2008 at 2:45 PM, Zoltan Finks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
> As I was searching the internet for tips on replacing my thermostat, I
> found this ad that was apparently posted yest
As I was searching the internet for tips on replacing my thermostat, I found
this ad that was apparently posted yesterday.
Yes, I have the CD, but I think the wife put it somewhere and I am unable to
locate it right now. Oy.
On that note, anybody know why the 201 repair manual CD would not work -
In fact, a 7/16" bolt has an 11mm diameter shank. I bought a
3" long sample of the same today, $0.70, and what I found was that it
was an even better fit than the 27/64" drill bit. I cut off the
threads and cut/filed a notch into the end of the shank. It fits
nearly perfectly into the IP's timin
In fact, a 7/16" bolt has an 11mm diameter shank. I bought a
3" long sample of the same today, $0.70, and what I found was that it
was an even better fit than the 27/64" drill bit. I cut off the
threads and cut/filed a notch into the end of the shank. It fits
nearly perfectly into the IP's timin
> The dynanic tool uses the "prong" and a hall effect pickup along with
> the crank positions sensor pickup to determine timing.
By using the same type (VR?) of sensor for both locations,
error in the test equipment tend to cancel out. That is,
even if the IP sensor fired a bit late the crank sen
> You can also loosen the IP bolts and use the adjuster screw on the
> side of the mount for small changes if that pump is the same as the
> one on the 603, allowing you to set it the way you want it without
> the tool.
Yeah, it's got that screw. But I doubt it has the range, especially
since it
> Hmmm, I've seen all sorts of inductive pickups that do NOT have
> magnets called Hall effect pickups -- moving a piece of metal through
> the energized coil produces a signal. Easily could be wrong, though.
Yep, that's a variable-reluctance (VR) pickup, a.k.a. inductive
pickup. Not a Hall-effe
You can also loosen the IP bolts and use the adjuster screw on the
side of the mount for small changes if that pump is the same as the
one on the 603, allowing you to set it the way you want it without
the tool.
Very likely it slipped one spline on the hub. You may be able to set
it witho
Hmmm, I've seen all sorts of inductive pickups that do NOT have
magnets called Hall effect pickups -- moving a piece of metal through
the energized coil produces a signal. Easily could be wrong, though.
At any rate, and inductive pickup and the associated electronics to
signal when the pron
I removed the radiator, which was filled (again) with rather
dirty-looking coolant. I guess it's getting a flush after all. I'll
be sure to do this a few times until it runs clear. (Though dark like
oil, there's no oily film. I think it's just ancient grungy coolant.
I'm glad I didn't put in th
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I think that's just a VR sensor screwed into the hole in the IP.
> And some electronics, of course. Hall effect requires a magnet
> to swing by, which the prong on the IP's shaft is not. VR is
> not so picky, but requires the thing to be moving at a good clip.
> The AB box is
> measuring less than 20mV with a standard DMM is pretty silly.
My Flukes resolve down to 0.1mV on their lowest scale. Still
kind of coarse, but possibly workable. Amplifiers are easy
to flange up, of course.
> There is also an RIV method that times the engine with it running!
I think that's j
maybe you should google it
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
> let us know more about then if/when you investigate it.
>
> Jim Cathey wrote:
>> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
>> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
>> with engine idli
let us know more about then if/when you investigate it.
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
> with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
> the I
The dynanic tool uses the "prong" and a hall effect pickup along with
the crank positions sensor pickup to determine timing. I believe the
A/B tool does too.
Cheapest and easiest way to set the timing is to set the engine to 15
ATDC on #1 compression stroke, then adjust the position of the
Ages ago I replaced the IP on my 300TD (617.912), carefully positioning the
engine at the correct degree mark (I forget now what it was) and also
positioning the IP drive to line up with the mark. It smoked a LOT and could
not be brought into proper timing no matter what I did. I removed the IP
Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Here is a picture of the A-B box... It is mis-labeled as the RIV tool,
FWIW.
http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/IP__RIV_tool.jpg
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see officia
Jeff Zedic wrote:
> Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Nope! The same prong that the locking tool uses to lock the IP in
places, is used by the A-B tool. Basically, there are two feelers on
the "sensor", and when the prong is between the two feelers both of the
lights (A and B are li
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
> way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
> with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
> the IP's timing until it peaks. Millivolts? Just my kind of
I have the MB timing tool in my posession
Luther
On Mon, 03 Mar 2008 10:01:24 -0600, John Robbins <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Jim Cathey wrote:
>> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
>> white smoke. Could the timing be off? Clogged injectors? I revved
>> i
Millivolt method? Hm...now that would be an interesting, and easy
way, to set the timing!
Is the A-B box using this method I wonder??
Zedic
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I did a little surfing, and found a reference to a _very_ interesting
way of setting the timing, known as the "millivolt method." That is,
with engine idling measure the average voltage on the plugs and adjust
the IP's timing until it peaks. Millivolts? Just my kind of animal!
This appears to be
> No chance its just condensation from sitting? My 190D also makes more
> smoke than I like when its cold... Not huge clouds though.
No, it does it when hot too.
> Question: Does the throttle respond promptly like it should or does it
> lag when coming off throttle?
A bit laggy off idle, but n
Jim Cathey wrote:
> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
> white smoke. Could the timing be off? Clogged injectors? I revved
> it a fair amount, and it sounds OK at speed, but it's blowing too much
> smoke to suit me. It never did stop, though it did settle down s
The IP locking tool fits onto a nub on the crankshaft of the IP, and
the correct setting is 15 ATDC when the tool is properly engaged. I
suppose you could screw it down and hold the shaft at an point in
rotation, though.
Rather minor changes in injection timing will produce poor fule
cons
See my previous message, sounds alot like how mine was...
-Curt
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 19:11:47 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; char
some little
whatsis inside can get mis-aligned and then you get weird throttle response AND
loads of smoke...
-Curt
Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:31:43 -0800
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D status
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED], Mercedes Discussion List
Message-ID: &
This evening I put the air filter back on, cleaned out access to the
car, and took it for a test drive. It seemed to have about as much
power as before, maybe a touch less, but even fully warmed up it
smoked (white, stinky) a lot at low RPM's. Idle was still very rough,
and the car tended to die
> doesn't the timing notice on the front rail give two values depending
> on how you measure?
Que? Anyway, I tried to put the IP back as it was, with
no net change to timing. Up to now I was confident that
I had done so. Essentially I used the locking tool to
lock the IP shaft before putting it
On Mar 2, 2008, at 12:53 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:
> Heartbreak. The engine runs OK, but idles rough and blows a lot of
> white smoke. Could the timing be off?
In the past having a had an IP set with wrong timing, can't remember
if too far before, or after
I can say it nicely produces large volu
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