I run Paul Canti brakes on a number of bikes.
The touring brake model should be more powerful than the Neo-Retro when you
account for both the angle of the arms and the yoke angle. As such, the
greater mechanical advantage of the Neo-Retro arm is offset by the lower
mechanical advantage of
Adam,
Re: *"...though I'm not sure if I understand what BB will get a specific
chainline"*
That will be crank and implementation specific.
Since this is Riv-centric we can use the concept of a square taper triple
mountain crankset as an example. It will require a specific BB length to
VBC as an example so I generally
only go from 47.5mm to 45mm chainline and 150mm to 145mm Q.
-Justus
Mpls, MN
On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 12:27:25 PM UTC-6 J G wrote:
> This one is a little harder or more restrictive as you cannot use a
> middle/outer combo for a 94bcd double/triple wit
Industries VBC road cranks is what I tend to use for doubles in the
range of 24/38 up to 28/42 and the Q is not quite in the 140s but a flat
150mm on a 113mm BB.
-Justus
Mpls, MN
On Wednesday, January 10, 2024 at 12:21:12 PM UTC-6 J G wrote:
> Adam,
>
> Regarding:
>
> *does swapping
Adam,
Regarding:
*does swapping the large ring for a bash guard allow for a lower Q? I
assumed that would stay the same?*
No, in fact this would create a higher Q if implemented properly.
Chainline is now between middle and small rings with a bash and need
longer BB spindle to achieve
Tires *like* the W106 700x35 Nokians work well for snow and ice on paths,
however on rutted ice, they have no studs to pull you out.
Tires *like* the W240 700x40 Nokians are more aggressive with knobs, stud
volume and stud placement. You can ride these pretty much anywhere.
Schwalbe Marathon
lol. As soon as I saw this, I knew you had to be the guy who removed the
head badge on what is now my Green Rosco.
On Friday, December 1, 2023 at 10:51:52 AM UTC-6 Paul M wrote:
> Sold. Thanks!
>
> On Friday, 1 December 2023 at 05:34:25 UTC-8 Paul M wrote:
>
>> Just removed this head badge from
I carry a similar load and my Tubus Vega handles it without any sway. As
it should, 20lbs is a light load for the rack.
If you need more heel clearance due to the relatively short stays and your
feet size, then could look up market a bit to their Logo rack that allows
for lower and further
While I still kit up (to a lesser or greater extent) for bigger rides, I
converged biking and daily wear about a dozen years ago. Search and State
and Mission Workshop on the kit end and brands like Outlier and Swrve along
with Icebreaker and the original Ibex provided daily wear options that
Agree with Patrick that whatever change you make, give it a 100 miles.
Only disagree with the idea to toe in more. Centerpull brakes work best
with no toe in, in my experience.
I have 2 bikes with Paul Racers, with one center mount and one post mount.
No toe in for either and no squeal or
I am a big fan of the Racer brakes. Would hope that you would not need to
dump. Set mine up many years ago, but seem to remember them not being toed
in.
I would recommend going back to no toe in and first see if the squealing
ceases once bedded in, before considering other changes.
As far
Cannot believe I did not immediately recognize the location.
My least favorite part of some of my favorite rides...
-Justus
On Tuesday, September 5, 2023 at 5:35:35 PM UTC-5 Pete P wrote:
> wats
> Love that Goodrich. Looks like some high gears too!
> I recognize that view from the Mendota
Not clipped in so no concerns you had a bad cleat angle with the 5.10s
If you are not used to it, the high resistance and low cadence may simply
be it. I took my Fat bike on a 45 mile gravel ride with a lot of climbing
and the rotational weight (resistance) along with me pushing harder than I
Just made this decision with my kid headed off to college in less than 2
weeks, as the bike they have had for the past 8 years has no business in a
college bike rack.
Was originally looking at 80s/90s mountain bikes, however they can be a
little sluggish, so I ended up picking up a ~1997
central MN tour.
[image: IMG_1167_small.jpg]
-Justus
Mpls, MN
On Thursday, June 29, 2023 at 5:25:07 PM UTC-5 J G wrote:
Back just a few days ago from this bike's first tour (with me) on a 280
mile loop through central MN.
Pictured here on the Lake Wobegon Trail somewhere near Albany, MN.
Note
Beautiful spot. Looks like an overlook near Fruitlands.
Nice area for a ride. Have not bicycled through there, but spent many days
motorcycling the region when I lived in Boston in the 90s for college.
On Monday, June 19, 2023 at 3:06:50 PM UTC-5 DavidP wrote:
> Patrick, this is in Harvard,
I used to ride the Almanzo 100 annually and introduced many people to
gravel over the past decade or so.
The Clem should be a great bike so long as you are committed to being
upright. For big rides drops are nice to get down and out of the wind, but
not a need just to enjoy being on roads
Nice looking Rivendell Standard road bike!
Looks like exact same paint options as my recently acquired
Mountain/Expedition.
I think the specific color was Burnt Orange, for at least 1997 era.
On Wednesday, May 3, 2023 at 4:01:15 PM UTC-5 fyavorsky wrote:
> Butterscotch!
>
> On Wed, May 3,
Got it.
Just so you know, the XC Pro has a very strong return spring. No idea if
that will make any difference for you. Looking for feedback on that with
Dura Bar Ends myself.
If you revisit Shimano, I will recommend that the ones from the same era as
the XC Pro are about the best for 46t
If you don't mind the inquiry...
Why the XC Pro specifically vs an XC Pro - OR - any HyperDrive-C compatible
FD which are functionally equivalent from an optimized gear range
perspective?
There are small but distinct differences in design between these Suntour MD
and Shimano mtn-compact FDs,
Regarding end of year stock: They were restocked on the site at end of
year with a limited amount and have all sold.
Regarding Crust: I think they just have the Platy in stock, not the Rosco
Platy.
On Tuesday, January 24, 2023 at 11:16:26 AM UTC-6 eliot...@gmail.com wrote:
> Crust has all
How is the fit on your current bike and do you have any wrist issues after
long rides or all feels great, always? Just want to make sure your weight
distribution is good on current ride as I worry a touch about whether your
saddle setback and seat angle are putting weight on your wrists.
If
Bob,
My understanding is that this is one of the cases where the physics of
brake design and how they interact with the setup as related to yoke angle
in this case, creates confusion because it is not just the brake design
that has to be considered, but also the yoke angle's part in overall
I use the touring brake up front when I run them for mountain mountain
bikes and loaded tourers due to higher mechanical advantage, as already
mentioned.
I will often run the Neo-Retro up front with a Touring in the rear for
Rando, light touring and city bikes where that is less important to
Really nice build on this!
Suntour XC Pro cranks are some of the all time greats and you have it with
about the best generation of XT. Specifically a Hyperdrive-C compatible FD
that along with the similar LX version (m563) is the best match for most
smaller chainring (large ring 42-46t range)
Good Day,
Looking for a clean pair of Shimano BL-r600 brake levers if anyone has a
pair they are willing to part with.
Lots of functionally similar levers out there including the r400s, but I am
specifically interested in only this model for the hot dish of a build in
progress.
Thanks for
That is pretty funny! I assume I am in the rabbit hole alone when I make
some of these connections. Good on you for connecting as the Casseroll has
been out of prod for 7 years or so IIRC. I was comparing the 49cm 2010
Mustard Casseroll (my favorite version and just found NOS after 12 years)
If you want to steal some marketing from another company where the ethos
has had some Venn overlap, would it be fair to describe the Roadini as:
"A versatile (light) touring machine with roadie influences."
Why that description? That is the marketing for the Salsa Casseroll that
was first
You guys have it right for ball parking limits based on something in the
26x~4" range based on my experience.
As stated before, my custom Clockwork Dirt Fat 1x (SqT White Industries
Road Cranks w/76bcd spider & 1x ring) with narrow Deda stays has a Q of
~180mm and looking at the space needed
The Paul Motolites do also have the best quick release mechanism of the
bunch.
The Paul brake that stands out the most to me is the Racer and Racer M.
Even better in post mount. That is the kind of brake you build a bike
around.
I run the gamut of Pauls and like them all just fine, but I
Nice find! Appreciated...
All sorted here!
On Monday, December 26, 2022 at 12:22:53 PM UTC-6 jeffbog...@hotmail.com
wrote:
> PMsent
>
> On Monday, 26 December 2022 at 11:47:59 UTC-6 cjus...@gmail.com wrote:
>
>> Correct. Nice brakes. Wrong reach for my needs.
>>
>> To clarify, I am really
Correct. Nice brakes. Wrong reach for my needs.
To clarify, I am really only looking for a set of the specific models
listed (in recessed mount - not nutted) and am not looking for other
functionally equivalent 47mm-57mm brakes available. Unless someone has a
set of center mount polished
Looking for a Shimano BR r600 or r650 standard reach 47mm-57mm brake set.
Missed a nice set for sale here last month and hoping someone has a clean
pair they are willing to part with.
Please let me know if you have a clean set available and what you are
asking for $.
Thx all.
--
You
Photos are uploaded at http://www.flickr.com/photos/94248582@N06/
On Wednesday, September 4, 2013 10:38:56 PM UTC-5, J G wrote:
I am the original owner of this beautiful, rare, Toyo built, Saluki 60cm,
650b with centerpull brakes. I am selling it as a complete bike which is
how I
I am the original owner of this beautiful, rare, Toyo built, Saluki 60cm,
650b with centerpull brakes. I am selling it as a complete bike which is
how I purchased it from Riv, they assembled it with their attention to
detail. Original green and cream color. Mix of Nitto and Shimano 105
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