Have to admit, I'd not seen the BE shifters all the way out w/ the
brakes before; I like it, though. Might try that on my next bike.
On the Ram, what I did was put the first part of the housing from the
BE shifter under the tape, right to where it starts to arc up to the
brake levers; I didn't
After just reading this thread, it sounds like running the shift
cables under the tape all the way up to the bar tops is routine. My
wife's new-to-her-just yesterday 47 cm Atlantis has the cables routed
in this fashion it does look great, very clean. However, the 8
speed Shimano indexed bar
Doug I wrap my cables under the tape on all my bikes. They shift
great. I woulds replace the cables and housing and change to a better
cassette. You can get a NOS HG-70 for $30 on Ebay in a 11-30 8 speed.
I've always had trouble with the lower priced cassettes shifting
well.
~Mike~`
On Nov 21,
on 10/25/10 1:47 PM, William at tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
The cross in front also has its trade offs. The cables themselves do
rub on the underside of the downtube when they cross back over to get
into the right BB guide slot. Also that might cause trouble for
your third bottle cage
The cables on one bike are routed up the handlebars and out the
center. Does make it challenging to open my Acorn Bag. On the other
bike, they pop out near the bottom. No Acorn Bag interference. Just
sayin'
Lynne F
On Oct 25, 5:42 pm, Dave Craig dcr...@prescott.edu wrote:
Patrick:
If
Kevin:
I always route them up to the stem... Personally I like the look much
better. It usually requires extra long cables (I use tandem cables,
and I cut my own housing to length). So check your length and make
sure you've got enough cable to route it this way; otherwise you'll
have to get
I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the flying whiskers look
of the cables that come off the drops.
One thing to keep in mind, depending on your circumstances, is how
they route to the down tube stops. Sometimes the transition directly
to the stop can be tight.
On Oct 25, 1:40 am, Kevin
same here... tandem cables and such. works great. I also like to route
cable on front of bar as it gives a flatter platform on top which I
find more comfortable.
~Mike~
On Oct 25, 6:29 am, Peter Pesce petepe...@gmail.com wrote:
I did this on my Sam, as I don't care for the flying whiskers look
Do you feel any additional friction so routing the cables? If not, I
may have to do this on the one bike with BES -- not that it's a huge
deal, but my fingers tend to get very slightly tangled in the housing
as it escapes from the tape just for'ard of the shifter pods (I ride
this bike in the
I prefer this method as well - it's cleaner and it shifts fine. It
does require extra cable though. I use inner cable meant for a tandem
to reach my rear derailleur.
It's fine to have the cables exit your bar top at the same place.
People who use Campy or Sram brake/shift levers do this all the
Thanks Travis, now I know I'm not totally out to lunch! My cables run
under the bar tops at about the same 4:00 position, and fall right
under the bend in my knuckles when I grip the bar there - it almost
feels MORE ergonomic than a plain round bar. I do the same cross-over,
but I did mine in
Weren't derailer cables always routed to the bar, before Rivendell
pioneered the new way?
I think I did need tandem cables to make the distance:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/philipwilliamson/5114851886/
Pretty straightforward setup. I like the clean lines, and the
Bontrager has top-tube stops, so
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 12:11 PM, Philip Williamson
philip.william...@gmail.com wrote:
Weren't derailer cables always routed to the bar, before Rivendell
pioneered the new way?
'the new way'?
No.
shifter cables came from the shifters (either downtube, barend,
thumbies or brifters) and made an
I'm glad I could help, Peter.
I was worried about the friction where the bare cables cross myself,
but I've had one bike built like that for a couple of years and
haven't noticed any wear whatsoever.
For cables I used a Jagwire kit, which supplies plenty of housing
length. I bought a separate
Peter,
IMO crossing the cables is a much better option than making housing
bends tighter. Those tighter housing bends also often lead to rubbing
on the frame and/or eventual failure of the housing at the end. I've
never seen an issue with cables rubbing against each other.
-Erik
On Oct 25,
The cross in front also has its trade offs. The cables themselves do
rub on the underside of the downtube when they cross back over to get
into the right BB guide slot. Also that might cause trouble for
your third bottle cage bosses, if you have them.
On Oct 25, 12:17 pm, Erik
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:47, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
The cross in front also has its trade offs.
Another idea for the brave among you, which I recently used on my
newly built Nishiki GBUB knockoff porteur: switch the left and right
shifters, that is, put the front shifter on the
On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 13:50 -0700, james black wrote:
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:47, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
The cross in front also has its trade offs.
Another idea for the brave among you, which I recently used on my
newly built Nishiki GBUB knockoff porteur: switch the left
I think the stories goes (I read it either from GP or jobst brandt,
can't remember which) that prior to SIS compression-less housing
coming along, most der. housing was floppy, wound stuff that wouldn't
support the weight of a long arch from shifter to downtube, so you had
to route it up under the
Hmmm. I might try the crossed cables, seeing how it's a simple
switch.
A little helicopter tape on the downtube should protect the breathe-on-
it-and-it-scratches paint!
On Oct 25, 4:47 pm, William tapebu...@gmail.com wrote:
The cross in front also has its trade offs. The cables themselves do
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:56, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
Don't you find that awfully confusing to use?
It does feel weird, but it's also my first time using half-step and my
only bike with bar-end shifters, so it would feel weird anyway, and I
have no reason to doubt that I'm
On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 15:03 -0700, james black wrote:
It does feel weird, but it's also my first time using half-step and my
only bike with bar-end shifters, so it would feel weird anyway,
and that means you stand at least a chance of learning it without
conflicts. Are all your other bikes
Thanks everyone. Travis' explanation really describes it well. And
Seth's and Phillip's photos really helped. I already have the tandem
cables and housing on order, so as soon as they arrive, I'll get
crackin' on the Atlantis.
--
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On Mon, 2010-10-25 at 15:27 -0700, james black wrote:
Perversely, I also have the rear brake caliper mounted backwards on
the front side of the seatstays, in order to get the Tubus Fly rack to
install without conflicting with the brake. If three things on the
bike are backwards, is that
You should get a rapid rise rear dérailleur and one of those old
suntour fronts that shift backwards. That'll really give the brain
a workout.
On Oct 25, 3:03 pm, james black chocot...@gmail.com wrote:
On Mon, Oct 25, 2010 at 13:56, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
Don't you find that
Patrick:
If you're running the cable housing outside of the tape, there's
really no reason to have any part of it taped. My BE shifter cable
housing runs from the pods to the DT cable stops completely outside of
the tape. That would buy you a little more tangle-free area on the
drops.
Dave
On
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