Hello Jack.
No idea if Smoov is better than what you do — may not given the deep
cleaning you do. But it is simpler and easier (so far).
It'll take another month or two before I can really say! It gets cold and
muddy here in VT, which should be a good test.
Best.
Paul
On Wednesday, August
I've been following a variant of Zero Friction Adam's suggested routine for
years, but unlike Adam I adopted that routine out of laziness. I hot wax
with Chain Wax(TM), a paraffin + PTFE product that I bought a lifetime
supply of when it went off the market 20-ish years ago. Between hot waxings
Hello All
*** UPDATE on my lube experiment. **
Here's what I did:
1) Took both cassette and chain off the Atlantis.
2) Put the chain in a big plastic screw top bottle without 2 inches of
degreaser for a few hours, and shook it up now and then. Then drained,
rinsed, and went over it with a
I ride 9-12 miles most days when it’s not raining. 1-2 times per week I
wipe the chain with a washcloth while spinning it, then put on ProGold
ProLink while spinning, then wipe again with the washcloth. Takes 2 minutes
or so, and seems to leave the chain fairly clean and slightly lubed.
On
Tri-flow doesn’t doesn’t attract the dirt but it has Teflon, which is probably
good for lubrication, but there’s been some health concerns lately, although on
non-stick cooking surfaces- I don’t plan on eating off my bike chain! -John
> On Aug 5, 2020, at 7:57 PM, 'John Hawrylak' via RBW Owners
Paul: Please do report back. I ride in sandy conditions, and used paraffin
wax for years, then a few years ago switched to Molten Speed Wax, which
very definitely lasts longer, but still only a short while before the
chains get noisy. I have no scientific evidence that chain noise means more
wear,
Hello Everyone.
I contacted Adam Kerin a few weeks back, who runs Zero Friction. (http://
www.zerofrictioncycling.com.au). His website's mission is to get the lowest
friction possible on bicycle chains for bike racing. While that's the
antithesis to Rivendell, I asked him about the cleanest
John
Don't know what the OEMs use ot how the apply it, but agree it's last for
about 500M.
Does TriFlow attract dirt???
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
On Wednesday, August 5, 2020 at 5:56:10 PM UTC-4, Whatcha Oughtter wrote:
>
> Does anyone know what’s on chains when they are new out of the
Does anyone know what’s on chains when they are new out of the box? It
always seems sticky but doesn’t seem to attract too much dirt, is really
smooth and quiet and lasts a long time. After the factory lube is gone I
use tri-flow with pretty good results. I used motorcycle chain lube for a
Hi Corwin
I'm going to try to find a link to that. Or just write Paul, he's pretty
responsive. :)
Never using lube would be the holy grail for me. I hate the gunk.
On Friday, July 31, 2020 at 1:08:06 AM UTC-4 Corwin wrote:
> Hi Paul -
>
> If you want to find out about riding a chain with no
Hi Paul -
If you want to find out about riding a chain with no lube - look to Paul
Price of Paul Components. He is notorious for riding his bikes without
maintaining them to see how long it takes parts to fail.
Namaste,
Corwin
On Wednesday, July 29, 2020 at 1:17:08 PM UTC-7, ☆ Paul ☆ wrote:
I remember seeing this guy from GCN who uses WD-40 as both lube and
degreaser on all his road, mtb and cross bikes all year in the UK, with up
to 5 hour rides in all conditions. He's not endorsed to use it either. He
calls himself a "lazy bike rider looking for a cheap trick". My kinda rider
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 6:18:22 PM UTC-5 mhec...@gmail.com wrote:
> Your experience, appreciated.
>
And lots of experience posted from all over! I gave wax a try for a couple
of years, but it never made it through winters very well here (salty slush
on the roads is a nightmare for chains
WD-40 is just fine by me Stan ! It's the original "clean and lube in one"
concept that other brands have tried to copy or improve on.
On Wednesday, July 29, 2020 at 8:53:24 PM UTC-4, stanw...@bellsouth.net
wrote:
>
> I suspect I'll get a lot of grief for this...
>
> For many years I've
I suspect I'll get a lot of grief for this...
For many years I've been using WD-40 on our bicycle chains. I spray it on
while spinning the chain, let it set for a half hour or so and wipe the
excess off with a paper shop towel.
I first started using WD on the O-ring drive chains on our
Rohloff® Special Bike Chain Lubricant claims to be "rapidly biodegradable". It
says so on the bottle. I've always suspected it's some sort of vegetable oil,
maybe even olive oil. I use it on my Wipperman chain, but not on my salad. It
works as well or better than other stuff I've tried over
I've never tried it, but I seem to recall a lab test of bicycle chains
lubricated with different substances, and the researchers finding that a
perfectly dry but clean chain performed as well as a clean, well-lubed
chain. Can anyone recall this study and the report?
Patrick Moore, who remembers
Has anyone ever tried cleaning their chain and NEVER applying lube at ALL?
This may be an absolutely idiotic question, but there are all kinds of
posts all over the web about people who think lube is a scam, but I can't
find anyone that has actually tested the theory with a top-quality chain.
Put on NFS for the first time today. 12 drops on my lng 1x9 Gus's
chain, in high gear (small cog), back spun 12 times, no wipe. It shifted
wonderfully smooth. I'll see how long it goes before asking for more and
how it handles mud and frozen slop; however, so far I'm impressed.
With
This thread title sounds like a name for a topless bar…
Use oil on your chain. Chain-L will last 10K miles.
> On Jul 20, 2020, at 2:39 PM, Lyman Labry wrote:
>
> This is interesting thread. My new riv bike received May 5th must have some
> type of wax treatment on it. I’ve ridden it daily
This is interesting thread. My new riv bike received May 5th must have
some type of wax treatment on it. I’ve ridden it daily and drivetrain
still looks clean. Do you know who riv folks use on their bikes? Also,
wondering what they clean drivetrain with before treating. Thanks!
On Sun, Jul
Alternately, you might consider a length of housing, as is common under BB
shells.
Michael
On Monday, July 20, 2020 at 12:28:25 AM UTC-4, Jeff B wrote:
>
> Not to talk off the topic of chain lubing but, Patrick your rear
> derailleur cable is wrapped under the kickstand plate. Not sure if it
Not to talk off the topic of chain lubing but, Patrick your rear derailleur
cable is wrapped under the kickstand plate. Not sure if it makes any
difference to you but it could lead to the cable breaking prematurely or
the rear Der being perpetually out of adjustment. Is there room for the
So. To come back to this. I ordered a bottle of Nix Frix Shun NFX, and
have been using it on my two bikes, my wife's bike and our tandem this
summer. The results have been excellent. I don't know how much is this
particular lube or is application method, including wiping the outside
chain
For me the 12 drops part is big, and that it last longer and is cleaner,
I’m a fan. Steve
On Sat, Jun 6, 2020 at 1:02 PM eddietheflay wrote:
> it is kinda of interesting the high percentage of relatively high praise
> for NFS. i like it a lot but can't quantify why. it just seems to work
>
it is kinda of interesting the high percentage of relatively high praise
for NFS. i like it a lot but can't quantify why. it just seems to work
really well.
On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 4:18:22 PM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> Greetings, one and all. It has been a long time, at least a few
I should be clear: For success with MSW, clean the chain thoroughly for the
first application; thereafter, no need to clean, just dunk it in and let
soak.
On Sat, May 30, 2020 at 11:00 AM Patrick Moore wrote:
> Michael: FWIW, you don't need ultrasonic cleaning for Molten Wax success;
> just do
Michael: FWIW, you don't need ultrasonic cleaning for Molten Wax success;
just do an initial bath in mineral spirits with brush, and wash in hot
water with detergent, rinse, and let dry.
I find your attitude towards tools and instruments very interesting and
appealing; that is how I look at my
Having done hot wax, Squirt(water based) and Clean Ride(petrol based)
bottled waxes ... it always bugged me that I had to remove the factory lube
in order to use the wax. I still had to clean the chain, sigh. I never want
to clean another chain in my life, ever, period ! I thought about
For cleaning, I mostly hose off the drivetrain after a dusty ride, bounce the
bike a few times and dry in the sun, and then wipe down the chain. Sometimes I
over lube and wipe.
When it's time to do a rare major cleaning, the chain goes in an old wide mouth
nalgene with Dawn dish soap and
What an interesting conversation! I had no idea when I originally asked.
Now I see that what Deacon does works for Deacon and what Doug, or
Patrick, or Rich, or.. anyone else does probably works for them and not
just because of physics but because of lifestyle and personality.
I have
*"So the real issue is, how much of my life do I want to give up trying to
extend the life of chainrings?*
Michael:
You've hit on the core question. There are so many different situations
that it's hard to generalize. There is no optimal solution for all
conditions. The questions for each
Good to connect with you too, Michael, even when you are wrong about
thinking I am wrong. Grin. I agree, my method increases part wear, and I
agree the question we each are answering in our own way, as you well
express, is: "how much of my life do I want to give up trying to extend the
life of
Deacon, how good to connect with you again, even when I think you are
wrong! At one level you are right. If we are discussing energy lost to
friction in the drivetrain then nothing makes a difference, wax, chain oil,
heavy or light oil or even no lube at all. Under all conditions the energy
On the opposite side of the spectrum from wax, I use chain saw oil. One
drop per link, whenever the chain begins to talk. I worry not one whit
about cleaning it. Works great in all environs, all year long.
With abandon,
Patrick
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The toilet seal ring thing seems like a great idea. How about Johnson's Wax?
It's about the same color, maybe even softer, and your chain would really shine
after a wipedown. Anybody tried it?
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I'm a wax convert - it started years ago when I was recovering from a back
injury and commuting on a recumbent, with yards of chain that kept finding
a way to stain my legs, my yellow riding jacket, and anything else that got
within a block of it. I read that waxing was the lowest friction,
i waxed for about 3 years. it was sorta fun to have a new hobby to go along
with simply riding the bike. waxing is a hobby. it works fine but the
question is does is how long does a waxing last? do you have to do it 2x as
often as cleaning and relube with a great normal lube product. i think
I gave hot waxing a go last year. It worked, but not better than other
"dry" lubes, and was more hassle I found. I tried Finish Line's dry lube
and found it to be as dirty as regular wet lubes and didn't last very long.
I ended up back with Squirt. It's as clean as hot waxing as far as
attracting
Michael:
I find that waxing leaves the chain clean so that it doesn't attract dirt.
Even riding off-road it can be simply wiped down. However, I've also done
some touring in wet climates & need to take along a conventional chain lube
as the wax doesn't hold up well in a wet climate. It is a
this is really simple. If you want a clean dry chain to put in your molten
speed wax, use denatured alcohol last
On Tuesday, June 5, 2018 at 7:59:23 AM UTC-5, eddietheflay wrote:
>
> the guy in the kitchen vid did not say anything about the alcohol step
> after cleaning his new chain in
The stuff collects at the bottom of the crockpot and, if you exercise
sufficient care and don't stir up the wax when you remove the chain, I
daresay it stays on the bottom and leaves only clean wax to penetrate the
innards of the chain. I'm still on the same 1 1/2 pint of mineral spirits I
first
Dave has a hyper-thorough chain maintenance method, but Molten Wax works
well with less caring regimens, too. I thoroughly cleaned my chain before
the original waxing, per the company's instructions (mineral spirits and
hot water and detergent), but thereafter I've just removed the chain (still
the guy in the kitchen vid did not say anything about the alcohol step
after cleaning his new chain in mineral spirits.
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I did a search on this and was surprised not to find anything. (Except
> waxing cloth!)
>
> After 40+
I don't get how that solid wax can get to inside the rollers, where the
critical wear occurs.
On Monday, June 4, 2018 at 8:53:51 AM UTC-7, Justin, Oakland wrote:
>
> This just came up on Instagram: https://instagram.com/p/BjkQr4VgsK7/
> https://wendperformance.com/buy-online/wend-wax-on
>
>
>
Thank you Clayton . I have one bike that I use WL Clean Ride with and
have for 4 years or so. Before that I used Squirt water based wax lube. It
was much thicker but in the end I found no real world difference in wear of
chains or cog teeth.
So, I'm gonna try just a surface cleaning of the
Garth, I'm still in the 'trying out the Clean Lube phase". I degreased my
chain with citrus degreaser, but not by soaking it. I brushed it on with a
stiff brush while on the bike, and let it sit for a couple of minutes. That
left most of the factory grease intact in the rollers, but removed the
guess I'll say it again. My method is working great. I clean with mineral
spirits followed by denatured alcohol.
You end up with a chain that doesn't even smell like mineral spirits.
My logic was extending the half-pound of wax for as many chains as
possible. When you clean with mineral
chain cleaning. I wonder if the last step is best done with alcohol rather
than mineral oil? Wouldn't you want the surface dry and not with any
petroleum product left on it before you bathe it in hot wax?
On Saturday, June 2, 2018 at 4:54:19 AM UTC-7, Michael Hechmer wrote:
>
> I did a search
Clayton, do you apply the WL Clean Ride over a factory lubed , wiped down,
chain ?(ridden a few miles or not) Cleaning the chain prior I always have
to reapply often at first as the first applications simply do get INSIDE
the chain and it squeaks quickly at first. If I didn't have to clean
OP here. Let me try to summarize what I am learning. My current practice
is to remove the chain when dirty, soak it in mineral spirits in a used 1
qt yogurt container. After a few minutes I swish it around, take it out,
and then, depending on how energetic I feel, either take a brush to it
White lightening clean lube after every two or three rides with a good
chain wipe down, keeps my chain very clean. I have a very 'spensive cog set
that I can't afford to replace at three hundred plus dollars. (It was a
gift from my son). One thing I have learned after thirty years, is don't
I extend my 700 mi/ hotwax with bottled wax lube. My experience with these
is not to use the weather resistant type, because they are tenacious and
difficult to remove completely later. White Lightning Clean Ride is my
choice - it gets me another 100 mi/ application. I've also tried Pedros,
A question from a newbie. As we are touring cyclists I am considering the
waxing route. But wondering how to deal with "relubing" while on tour? We have
a 2 month European tour coming up.
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To
Adding details to the system idea. The double boiler using two cheap
saucepans lets you store your half-pound of molten speed wax in the small
sauce pan when it resolidifies. Starting with a clean chain is what lets
you reuse the half-pound for ten+ chains. After almost 3 years, I'm still
as a retired person with the cycling hobby, I get a certain amount of
satisfaction from doing a relatively quick 4 step cleaning process and then
warming up the hot wax in the crock pot and then pushing the chain down
into the molten liquid and watching it bubble. have been using the shake
jar
I like the idea of the *drive belts* for the timing "drive". Unfortunately,
they're *ridiculously expensive*. :-(
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I bought the ingredients on ebay and have been waxing for a couple of
years. I have no idea how it compares in durability. I mostly am a fair
weather rider so rain not much of a factor. I can say the chain and
cassette stay really clean and the mess when fixing rear flats or
derailments is
Michael,
It may look like a hassle at first for acquiring the necessary stuff and
thoroughly cleaning the chain to prep it for waxing. This is only done ONCE.
Thereafter, it takes only five minutes (+30 min of heating and letting it cool
down) every three or so weeks in dry weather, every week
I live in VT, so wet & green. I live 3 miles down a dirt road so all of my
rides include at least 6 miles of dirt and many rides considerable more.
I am motivated to try wax by the timing chain on my tandem. It is long and
it needs to be removed when we break the bike apart and stick it in
Garth's method doesn't work well in very sandy or dusty environments. Oils
grit the chain up immediately; most "dry" lubes build up into waxy gunk,
and in any case, applying liquid lube over a gritty chain just leaches grit
into the innards.
With the Molten wax I described just now, you clean
Search google for*hot wax chains cycling . *
Scroll Pick and choose a link .
Asking if it's worth it or not , you will get yes it's worth it and no it's
not. No surprise .
A lube is a lube is a lube . those that claim "mine is best" are simply
defending their choice only.
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