Patrick,
Propper fit on a bike is unique to each rider. I used to ride a 56ctc
Italian frame with an 11cm Cinelli stem. Not anymore. Bars at whatever
height should fit the individual rider. AMEN
On Monday, February 13, 2017 at 5:48:51 PM UTC-8, Patrick Moore wrote:
>
> I also like my bars low en
And I, my back and neck, are most comfortable with mine well above the saddle.
I can ride 70+ enjoyable and comfortable miles.
3 inches with noodles: https://flic.kr/p/QMCfXy
4-6 inches with albatross bars: https://flic.kr/p/FwKLsx and
https://flic.kr/p/PQGs7R
All the best,
Erl
--
You received
I also like my bars low enough; certainly not high above the saddle. My
road bikes -- the 2 Riv customs -- are set up identically with the bar
about 1" below saddle. That's up from 3" below saddle up to my mid 50s, and
*that's* up from 6" below saddle when I knew no better than to have my bar
6" be
I feel like setting bar height in isolation is likely silly.
I have 4 bicycles and each has a different bar height.
The bike's geometry and purpose dictate bar height and bar shape to a
degree.
On my brevet bike I run drop bars below seat with a longish stem
On my Cheviot I run them above sadd
If I’m doing more than puttering down to the corner store, I need to have my
bars at or slightly below the top of the seat. I’ve tried them higher, and
found it to be quite uncomfortable after a few miles.
Perhaps I’ll change over time, but for now this still works for me. YMMV.
--Eric Norris
c
I still ride with bars 0-2cm below the saddle. I find that when I get
above the saddle it becomes more difficult to stand up and rock the bike.
I wouldn't do that on a long climb but still find it a good way for
maintaining pace over shorter rises.
Michael
On Sunday, February 12, 2017 at 11:
They're set 1cm above the saddle. Also, the bars are Soma Highway One's.
Short reach and very shallow drop.
On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 10:05:24 PM UTC-8, John Hawrylak wrote:
>
> Don
>
> How much further are your bars above the saddle?? I have my bars 15mm
> above the saddle.
>
> John
Don
How much further are your bars above the saddle?? I have my bars 15mm
above the saddle.
John Hawrylak
Woodstown NJ
On Saturday, February 11, 2017 at 11:55:52 PM UTC-5, Don Compton wrote:
> I have finally given in to Grant's bar height philosophy. Please forgive
> me for my past transgre
The midge bars are MUCH wider feeling and in actuall measure. I have
them and use them on some set ups, but find the drops short, I have
big hands. The number of hand positions is somewhat limited too, due
to the shape. I find myself always coming back to the Nitto dirt
drop. Downside to that i
All valuable advice. Does anyone have any insight comparing the OnOne
Midge bars to the Noodle bars? I think the Moustache bars coming out
for now.
René
On 2/27/10, PATRICK MOORE wrote:
> Here is one more recommendation for a saddle position that, as Steve said,
> allows you to hold your hands s
Here is one more recommendation for a saddle position that, as Steve said,
allows you to hold your hands slightly above the bar, without undue strain,
while pedaling. The new Sam Hillborne is so set up that I can do that while
in the hooks, and while I did start a numb left palm yesterday, as expec
ing my core might help as
> well...
>
> René
>
> On Thu, Feb 25, 2010 at 7:58 AM, Joe Bartoe wrote:
> > I haven't been following the thread, but I've found that higher bars, for
> > me, cause hand and wrist pain. Keeping the bars about 2 inches lower than
>
My problems mostly occurred with padded tape. Using plastic or cotton
tape gave me a better hand fit and the occurance of hand pain is now
much lessened. Using thin tape allows me to grip the bars without
using my palms, on the tops. I prefer this grip in absence of any
pain anyway.
On 26 Feb,
Frederick, East Lansing MI
-Original Message-
From: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
[mailto:rbw-owners-bu...@googlegroups.com]on Behalf Of Rene Sterental
Sent: Friday, February 26, 2010 11:41 AM
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bar height and hand pain... don'
Thanks for pointing that out, Steve.
I'm going to check those as well.
René
On 2/26/10, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> On Fri, 2010-02-26 at 08:41 -0800, Rene Sterental wrote:
>> Thanks everybody for their feedback and suggestions. I don't get any
>> numbness or tingling; it's just pain on the palm f
On Fri, 2010-02-26 at 08:41 -0800, Rene Sterental wrote:
> Thanks everybody for their feedback and suggestions. I don't get any
> numbness or tingling; it's just pain on the palm from the pressure of
> the bar. I do have to keep moving my hands, but in general no matter
> how I move them, whichever
following the thread, but I've found that higher bars, for
> me, cause hand and wrist pain. Keeping the bars about 2 inches lower than
> saddle height keeps me happy.
>
> Just another data point,
>
> Joe
>
> > Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 20:21:07 -0800
> > Sub
I haven't been following the thread, but I've found that higher bars, for me,
cause hand and wrist pain. Keeping the bars about 2 inches lower than saddle
height keeps me happy.
Just another data point,
Joe
> Date: Wed, 24 Feb 2010 20:21:07 -0800
> Subject: [RBW] Re: Bar heig
'Butt back' as so many have recommended may help take weight off of
your hands, but may also require an extra degree of flexibility if it
makes you stretch too far forward to meet the bars. I have been there
and (after getting a detailed professional bike fitting) wound up
moving back forward some
Gotta agree with Steve here. On my recently sold Atlantis, set up
with Albatross bars, did have the occasional bout of hand pain.
Rene, I feel for you. Hand pain (numbness) made me give up riding for
many years. Even now, it will flare up. The Rivendell summer gloves
seem to be evenly padded a
on 2/24/10 10:16 AM, muckum at toddjeffr...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
> Selle Anatomica designer has some very good adjustment guidelines to
> follow-
> Basically, saddle should sit so when seated and crank parallel with
> ground-edge of knee cap is directly above pedal spindle.
This is known as KOPS
+1 on sliding the seat back as far as possible. If you have a Brooks
and a seatpost with vaguely 'normal' setback, I'd urge you to try a
seatpost with more setback. The S-83 appears to have a fair amount.
Velo Orange sells a $50 one that was specifically designed to get more
setback on short-rail
On Wed, 2010-02-24 at 11:20 -0800, Jim M. wrote:
> If you can't find any positions that are comfortable, you need better
> advice than you can get off the internet. If it's as much as a problem
> as it sounds, your bicycling position may alleviate discomfort but
> it's not going to fix the problem.
If you can't find any positions that are comfortable, you need better
advice than you can get off the internet. If it's as much as a problem
as it sounds, your bicycling position may alleviate discomfort but
it's not going to fix the problem. Taking most of the weight off by
using Albatross bars ma
On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 11:19 AM, Bill Connell wrote:
> On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 11:59 AM, Jeremy Till
> wrote:
> > Aesthetics (and Grant's writing on the Noodle) tells us that perfectly
> > level tops are the best "neutral" position but i find that
> > biomechanically i'm still sliding forward o
On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 11:59 AM, Jeremy Till wrote:
> Aesthetics (and Grant's writing on the Noodle) tells us that perfectly
> level tops are the best "neutral" position but i find that
> biomechanically i'm still sliding forward on a level bar, that only
> when it's slanted back do my hands feel
Selle Anatomica designer has some very good adjustment guidelines to
follow-
Basically, saddle should sit so when seated and crank parallel with
ground-edge of knee cap is directly above pedal spindle.
With this position, stem can be adjusted/ changed to put tip of your
nose approx.
over the center
Also, IME _a slight_ rotation of the bars to change the angles can make a
huge difference in wrist issues. Seems especially true with Moustache bars.
--
Jim Edgar
cyclofi...@earthlink.net
"One Cog - Zero Excuses" L/S T-shirt - Now available
http://www.cyclofiend.com/stuff
Cyclofiend Bicycle Ph
I too struggled a bit with hand pain on traditional drop bars last
year after exclusively riding flared drops (on-one midges) for a
while. In the end, the thing that "fixed" it for me was rotating the
whole bar backwards (so that the end of the bar points downwards,
roughly towards the rear hub).
or too stiff keys as also contributing to wrist/hand issues.
Tailwinds
From: Roy Yates
To: rbw-owners-bunch@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wed, February 24, 2010 9:11:50 AM
Subject: Re: [RBW] Re: Bar height and hand pain... don't know what else to
do...
Besides
Besides what everyone else's good advice, it can only help to do crunches to
build the strength of your abdominal core.
On Wed, Feb 24, 2010 at 9:36 AM, Tim McNamara wrote:
>
> On Feb 24, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Rene Sterental wrote:
>
> Can anybody offer more insight into what I might try doing to
On Feb 24, 12:13 am, Rene Sterental wrote:
> I can't find a position where I will ride with no pain in my hands.
Wow, I'll bet this is frustrating for you.
I was going to advise that you ditch the M-bars as well, but you
indicate that the AHH with noodles causes hand pain as well. Other
posters
What I think works well is to rubber cement an extra layer of leather across
the palm of some cycling gloves to spread out the pressure. Most of the so
called padding in cycling gloves is a joke.
--- On Wed, 2/24/10, Tim McNamara wrote:
From: Tim McNamara
Subject: [RBW] Re: Bar height and
On Feb 24, 2010, at 1:13 AM, Rene Sterental wrote:
Can anybody offer more insight into what I might try doing to deal
with the pain in my hands?
Hand *pain* when riding is fairly unusual IME. Focal numbness is
common enough that there is a name for it: cyclist's palsy or
handlebar pals
I concur with the other rreplies so far as well. I have ridden a few
bars and prefer the greater flair in the dorps of a dirt drop style
bar, helps me achieve the "neutral position". The key is finding that
position for you. I also prefer the added thicknes of Soma's thick
and zesty tape. It is
First thing I'd try is sliding the saddle backwards as far as it will
go, and maybe angle the nose up a bit if it's not already. Then I'd
ditch the mbars at my earliest convenience and get a nice, wide noodle
bar. If it doesn't bother your knees, try riding in higher gears. The
more force you apply
Can you be more specific about where the pain is? What size tires at
what pressures are you riding? I find that shifting my hands around a
lot helps (I don't get pain, but numbness sometimes). Try changing
your grip every few minutes. Different gloves that place the padding
in different places may
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