Frank,
Thank you for the details about the horn design. That is exactly what I was
looking for. I really do appreciate your help despite it seeming like it is
falling on deaf ears I truly am taking your wisdom into account. Also,
thank you for the suggestion about the plastic to use. Now that
This is just my personal opinion but Id choose a much steeper side angle
than what you have printed. I dont think there will be an advantage having
any more that 5 degree off the horizontal . Why do you want to use 3 guide
teeth ?
Thanks for your comment about the 5° angle. The ones I have now are 22.5°,
but those were just me picking a starting point. If you read my previous
post I mention that I am not planning on using 3 guide teeth / horns. I am
just showing both center horns and side horns at the same time. You
Okay guys here are some pictures of Revision 4 of my design. I 3d printed
some horns to add to my previous revision 3. The pictures show both inside
and outside horns. This is to show both ideas. But I don't imagine anyone
would want both horns at the same time. I am pretty happy with the
Why do you include roller links in the design? Or, in other words, what
problems do they solve?
Wouldn't it be cheaper and easier to have two pins embedded in each
tread as you show in your design and then mold a link that connects two
treads together. The link could then be shaped to fit
All the more reason to make everything from molded plastic as much as
possible and, more importantly, to use a design where a small number of
parts (say 4) can be used to build a variety of different track widths
and configurations. With a slight modification of Garnet's T011 design,
such a
:
*Sent: *Tuesday, February 10, 2015 3:34:15 PM
*Subject: *Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea
One thing I learned about injection molding is that you can't mold a
part with a long hole through it. Even a 1 long hole would need a
substantial cone shape to it to provide enough draft to release the part
: Tuesday, February 10, 2015 3:34:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea
One thing I learned about injection molding is that you can't mold a part with
a long hole through it. Even a 1 long hole would need a substantial cone shape
to it to provide enough draft to release the part form the mold
2 foot tracks ... any vehicle with only a 1 foot wheelbase is not
worthy of a track :=)
Real tanks and robots have 2-3 foot wheelbases or roughly 6 foot tracks.
On 2/10/2015 3:56 PM, Joshua Updyke wrote:
Or about 300 kits of 2 foot tracks.
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Stewart,
Do you know one method is preferred over another? Or if one has advantages
or disadvantages?
I saw that some were on the outside and some are inside. With my design it
is not too difficult to put it on the outside. I was trying to think of a
way to put it on the inside as well. I
Frank,
I agree. I was just thinking 50 links kits. If you want two or three kits
to make your robot then that works as well. If I can pull this thing off I
will pre-sell kits such that I break even with the mold cost. I don't make
any money on those kits, but now I own the injection mold.
Joshua,
Modern MBT seem to have a sigle horn with split road wheels for better weight
coverage over the tracks compared to older tanks. My current plan is a light
tank which uses track with two horns. Also small lighter tracked vehicles seem
to still use a single road wheel and double horn
Josh,
A TTS track (short for Tyng Track System) uses a continuous loop of
treadmill or conveyor belting as the main tension member. The tracks
are mating pads adhered to the inner and outer faces of the belt. Guide
horns are incorporated on the inner pads. Guide horns engage the roads
First off I want to thank everyone for the help in the design so far. The
feedback has been great and being able to get answers to some questions has
really pushed my design forward. I have done some redesign and was curious
about peoples thoughts. I looked through the various links and that
Just want to mention some tracks have the horn (teeth) in pairs or a single
horn in the centre. The dual horns have the tank road wheel roll between them.
The single centred one go through the centre of a double road wheel (think oreo
cookie on its side). Many modern armour vehicles use this
Well it seems I cant upload a video here. Or at least I don't know how. So
here is a link to the youtube version. It didn't load correctly for me the
first time I watched it, but if I hit replay it worked fine. It is only 7
seconds long, so watching it twice is not a big deal. :)
diferent but not standardised.
Jean-Maxime Cyr St-Pierre
Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2015 06:52:46 -0800
From: srwh7...@gmail.com
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] New Track Idea
Joshua, go to the groups home page and there is a section of How To
articles. You will find a section
Joshua, go to the groups home page and there is a section of How To articles.
You will find a section on tracks. You will find TTS there. The guide horns
are teeth on a tank track system the fit eather between or inside the road
wheels. The keep the tank from turn itself off the track
Great example of guide teeth here
http://m.123rf.com/photo-21860408_photograph-of-decommissioned-wwii-us-army-tank-stuart-m3a1-caterpillar-drive-mechanism--detail.html
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Doug,
The new tank looks impressive. Can't wait to see it on the battle field.
ST
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Josh,
Impressive work so far. It looks like your modeling your tracks after
construction equipment. This is fine for low speeds, flat surfaces and no
suspension. I think you will find these tracks will throw quite often in
our typical battling environments and speeds. If your after a
Doug looks awesome. The tacks look great.
Once i get my suspenion together (finally figured out) i will seriously start
racking my brain for track. The goal tank is a AMX13 .
Stewart
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Looks like a sweet ride Doug.
There's one important aspect about your track design that you failed to
mention: the rigidity of the 90 degree angle between the chain and the
tread. If that angle is not held rigid over the life of the track, the
probability of throwing a track goes up.
Steve,
Thanks for the input. My goal is to create a generic track system that can
be used on tracked robotic projects, tanks, and other RC vehicles. What I
liked about using the roller chain was I could have various sizes that all
functioned the same way. You mentioned guide horns. Can you
It is true that too much grip is a bad thing. There is a balance in the
middle somewhere. Since the tracks you are making are based off of the
idea I actually built and used on one of my tanks I can lend some insight
into them. The pics in the article are of my Sturmtiger. My original
thoughts
Probably some experienced guys would say that too much grip mean difficulties
to turn neutral on grass and drawn to much amp. to your motors.
In second I would say that some guides thooths would probably work better even
if it's seemmed to work. Your super traction will probably trow off your
Doug,
That is just fantastic. I thought about the attachment chain route and
decided if I could make it work with standard roller chain it would be the
better way to go. I also thought about a two part tread. The base and
insert. That would allow me to make different inserts and people could
Thanks for the comments. I am by no means an expert in track design. But I
did a little homework. I know there are lots of styles of track out there
and I am trying to learn as much as I can about them.
The grouser style is the most common and simple. It has a lot of grip and
great for muddy
One of the aspects about using roller chain allows all the stock roller
chain parts to be used. Roller chain is quite common and parts are pretty
cheap and easily available. I was thinking of using several chain
tensioners like this one.
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