if it was originally an automatic car, (and is now a 5-spd) I suspect an issue with
the neutral safety switch. The cruise won't work if it is in park or neutral...
unless they were dumb like GM way back then.
If this switch is bypassed permanently, i'm surprised the cruise even worked at all.
I'm looking for opinions on the cometic head gaskets. Any leaking or whatnot? Ford
has been using a similar multi-layer metal gasket on their new engines, but at the
same time they say NOT to rebuild the head if something goes wrong... just get a new
one. Sounds like they're grabbing for
Think L-bodies are gonna be hard to restore? Imagine how difficult a '92-'93 Daytona
is gonna be. NO aftermarket body panels (hood, front fenders, doors, nose, tail),
only ~23,000 made, more than half are base models, probably a quarter of them have
been crushed. The '92 computers aren't full
Can someone tell me how hot the compressed intake air gets? I honestly don't have
much of an idea, but i'd like to know because I have a brainstorm on something to use
for intercooler plumbing. Preferably it'd be nice to know what the temps are before
and after the intercooler if equipped.
Speaking of which, my '92 lebaron has had a low-tone clunk in the front end of it for
28,000 miles now. ever since I got it. Going straight down the road it is solid,
rides nice,etc. No clunk no how big the pot hole. All the joints are solid. The
only time it happens is when I take a har
Seeing that nobody has ever re-programmed an 8v '92 computer, it seems that some type
of auxilirary engine controller would make more sense.
But, since the SBEC's are necessary for other functions of the car, it cannot simply
be replaced with some generic type. So, why would it not be possible
I was looking into getting a LSD for my 523 transmission--obviously the options are
just a quaife and a LSD that does metal-to-metal friction.
My question is... how do the LSD's hold up over time? obviously every corner you take
will cause the metal-on-metal to slip (at slow speed = "ok"), and
Does anyone have any pictures of a rear sway bar installed on a G-body? I am curious
as to how it is done.
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I've got this 1-piece intake here that I have theorized there to have dirt or
something inside of it. Washing it out with water hasn't helped. I'm not sure what
the scoup is.
I want to pop out the core plug on the passenger side of the intake manifold. Only
problem is that I will need a p
Why is this not supposed to be done? I've had a few people tell me that you're not
supposed to, but no reason why. They definitely look to be done that way from the
factory.
Its gonna be flat, and it's a good surface for the disk to wear into for a good seat.
This is where curiosity kills t
Not to forget that there are a boatload of inoperative PCV systems out there, which
will also cause oil to make it through the intake system. Looks just like a bad turbo
with the exception of shaft play.
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Gang, I bought a '94-'02 Dodge Cummins intercooler to shove in my '92 Daytona. All I
can say is WOW. What a fit! To do this right, the inlets on the IC will need to be
shortened, but if you don't mind cutting your radiator support thing, there is no
reason you cannot run the hoses right throu
>>He has a '91, which doesn't have the controller or any of the hard
>>switches. Everything is done with relays and the body computer.
>>Believe me, I know. I went through it all when putting the '91
>>interior into my '86.
This guy nailed it right on the nuts!
--
Guys, I really really like how the SRT-4's sound. I know the two engines are very
dissimilar, but does anyone know how I can get my new 2.5 turbo to sound like them?
I'm sure its got a lot to do with the DOHC cams in the SRT's Otherwise bore/stroke
I think is similar. Ideas?
Think of it this way--what is there to go wrong inside of these things? Armature
shorting out? Field coil shorting/breaking? Excessive commutator wear? All are
unlikely to happen. It seems to me that the only thing that commonly fails in our
alternators is bearings and brushes, both which a
>>The parts common to an Alternator are: Rotor, Stator, Slip Ring,
>>Bearings, Brushes, Rectifier. (and regulator in most cases
YES! Those are the correct terminologies! I'm in electric motor land yet. They do
essentially the same things though. I forgot to suggest the rectifier that can eas
Does anyone know about reconstructed vehicle titles? My neighbor has an early
80's (I think) chevy truck that is essentially a mud bog truck. He got stopped
by the cops once, and when the cop saw that the tailgate says "GMC" insteady of
"Chevrolet" a red flag flew in the cop's head so he searc
Y'all know that metal coolant pipe that bolts to the bottom of the thermostat
housing? Originally there is a crush washer in there, but I am having uber
difficulties finding one without going to the junk yard. The dealer says it is
NS1. But they still have the pipe itself available!! Should
Just adding my *hopefully* friendly opinion here.
I don't believe it is all the same, but even the cheap stuff, as long as it is
SAE rated, is adequate provided that you CHANGE THE OIL at least every 5000
miles regardless of how long one will argue that the lubricative properties
will last. M
A hopefully quick and simple question here...
The mitsubishi turbo's compressor housings have two vacuum ports on them. Is
one "suction" and the other one "boost?"
Looking at a t-II vacuum diagram, it only shows a single vacuum nipple on the
compressor housing, just like my super 60 has on
Does your air conditioner work? If it does, that noise could very likely be
the air conditioner clutch slipping. It makes a heck of a noise--like metal on
metal noise. Louder than a belt, but similarly sounding. It also runs with
the defroster--IF the air conditioner works.
When throttle po
I'm certain everyone is aware that the stock fuel pressure regulators regulate
fuel somewhere around 52 PSI with no vacuum line connected to it (atmospheric
pressure). But what people don't often know is that when you apply boost
pressure to that vacuum line, fuel pressure rises substancially,
I asked this question before, but I have forgotten and the archives aren't
working.
Where can I buy the terminals that go into the distributor? I think someone
told me that magnacore will sell them, but I cannot remmeber. Any part numbers
or anything?
--
Seaking of stability... some words of wisdom. Last night I was diagnosing a
front end clunk that i've had in my Daytona for a couple years now... I have so
far messed with/checked everything except the sway bar, so I removed it to make
sure that was causing the clunk.
Bottom line, be very care
I say those oil pressure readings are fine.
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Questions?
My question is, how long does it take to melt a forged piston at 25 psi lean?
I know it depends on how lean, how much timing advance, ambient temperature and
a half dozen other things, but if you get on it, it slips past 15 psi and flies
up to ~23 psi and you let off right away, is the chance o
Yes, Todd is the man. Really good, clean, smooth and benchflowed porting work.
Highly recommended.
Is there a better ported/big valve head built by someone else? Probably. But
at that point you should seriously consider going 16 valve or pay a lot more
money. You will not find anyone else
Has anyone put a considerable number of miles (tens of thousands) on a 2.2/2.5
with the 16 valve head from the neons? For a race motor, this is great. But I
worry about insufficient R&D and logevity of these setups.
I like Rick's little speech on head porting. Air with different levels of
hu
My '92 T-1 has an identical looking cover and the car is red. It was
originally much brighter than it is now... 130,000 miles and 12 years will do
that. Thats the color they all were painted back then.
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The best gasket to get is a multi-layer steel (MLS a.k.a. "cometic" head
gasket). Its the ultimate in durability. Lots of engines' designs are not
engineered to properly utilize an MLS gasket reliably and i'm sure when our 2.2
/ 2.5's were developed, and MLS gasket was not taken into considera
That Daytona was for sale about 15 miles from me. It just got auctioned off on
ebay. I'm not sure if the reserve was met, but i'm pretty sure the auction
ended quite recently. Notice the abnormal location of the coolant overflow
bottle, and the 80's Shelby Z front cliplooks like a mighty
I'll be doing my best to do some tuning this spring, and I am in need of the
proper equipment to do it. I am running a '92 car with a '92 SBEC.
I think i've determined that the best setup I can use is something very similar
to the Dynojet Wideband commander which will monitor MAP, TPS, RPM, wi
Does anyone know what the reverse gear ratio's are on the A670 transmissions?
My folks had an '88 v-6 voyager and that thing had what seemed to be a VERY
tall reverse gear--taller than first gear, and with that it would do 50 mph in
1st @ 6000 rpm. It made backing up a loaded trailer on uneven
I'm inquiring on what would be the biggest brake setup I could get installed on
a '92 G/J body car without extensive customization. I think I remember
someone saying that the '94+ minivan stuff will work good. You have to swap
spindles and go with a larger bolt pattern but the result is big b
I was playing with my IROC R/T today, and noticed an interior part that I'm not
certain what the heck it is.
It normally mounts behind & above the glove box wher ethe alarm module and lamp
outage modules mount, but the part in question looks to be some type of
electricity transformer. I've
1992 Daytona IROC R/T. Color is Red. Mileage is 122,000. Interior is
light grey.
The Good:
The previous owner recently replaced the intermediate shaft & oil pump.
The work looks to be done properly.
Previous owner also replaced the timing belt recently but it was
installed VERY poorly bu
I had a leaky oil galley plug (the one between the engine and transmission) so
I took some measures to fix it and guarantee myself that it won't leak again.
Hypothetical situation: If you pushed the core plug all the way in until it
bottoms out (the hole gets smaller a ways into the block for
I dunno. Doesn't look that bad. At the very least it could be a LOT worse.
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I cannot help but comment on the fact that I had better grammar skills than
that when I was in 3rd grade. It makes you wonder if the dude really knows
what a "JE forged piston" really is.
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Funny thing is that street racing would be legal if there werent dumb people
out there. There are the right places/times to race and times not to and you
have to let off when it becomes dangerous. The problem is, its impossible to
draw the line on who has the necessary skill, and where and whe
Has anyone replaced the drivers side inner CV axle boot on a 523/543/568
transmission? Truth to the matter is that none of the aftermarket ones fit
with an SSG joint. The rubber is too thick so the rubber AND clamp makes
contact with the transmission case and there is no possible way this can
I'm sure this has been discussed many many times in the past, but what are some
ways to reduce or eliminate wheel hop in a late model G-body car?
>From my readings, everyone was a fan of the stiffer poly engine/transmision
>mounts. Well, I'm looking for an alternative to that only because I'm
I think that the later yeared... somethin like 1991+ TBI cylinder heads... are
the same as the previous turbo's and are suitable for forced induction
applications. In the 80's the valves were cast with a "T" in them supposively
for "Turbo". It seems all the later TBI's have that. I've seen th
I'll be one to question the figures of 1,xxx '88 Daytonas with an airbag. I
would swear that a LOT more than that were made with them. I see them all the
time in the junk yards.
There were not "officially" available until '89, but they definitely had them
in 1988. No question about it. And
Actually, when I look at pre-1990 Daytonas the thing that draws me towards them
is underhood stuff. You should be able to quickly distingush '88 from '89 by a
commonblock or non-commonblock engine. Granted the engines aren't necessarily
original but whoever did the swap would get a rude awaken
Because Ebay has better buyer protection. I'd rather pay a bit more on Ebay to
know that the guy has a good rating, and knowing that I have the ability to
hurt a rating if something went wrong.
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Just wondering if anyone has come across this problem and give me a hand.
Its a 2.5l bored .030 over, ported head w/+1mm valves, venolia forged pistons,
super 60 turbo, etc. Its always had a rather rough idle (slight chugging)
since I first fired up this engine.For starters, compression is
One problem with my big ol cummins intercooler--it blocks all sorts of airflow
to the radiator so I'm running pretty hot down the open highway--probably 230
degrees or so. And its only been to like 85 degrees this year. Its
undoubtedly gonna run even hotter if it makes it to 100. The radiator
I'm looking to get my EGT probe installed, however the instructions say that
for a turbo engine, you want to mount it a couple inches south of the
turbocharger outlet. Isn't this supposed to be in the exhaust manifold?
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Subject says it all. However I would like to see pics of the hose
first so I can make darn sure it will work for my application. I am
confident it will, but just making sure. Can anyone help me out?
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My Lebaron has been making a sort of noise for about the last 10,000 miles, and
it seems to have gotten slightly worse this year.
Its sorta a bbrrr noise almost like when you run over the millions of
indentations on the edge of some highways to wake up sleepy drivers, except not
nearly tha
I agree with Marc 100%. He's right.
Burned CD's don't have actual physical "pits" in them. They have "virtual"
pits if you will. Burning speed is not the issue here. You can burn the
newest media at 4x with no problem at all.
But I do agree to a small extent that the quality of the burn i
Just an FYI... the stand-alone CD player from the 80's and early 90's is purely
a mitsubishi unit. Infinity/chrysler had little to do with it.
Unless I am having a brain fart which has happened in the past
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It'd be a brain fart then. I must be thinking of something else. One thing
for certain though is that there are two different logical designs of these
things. Some (the earlier ones it seems) are intended to work with the push
button on/off head units. The other style is intended to be used
I hear the grease gun hookup presses it out very very well. The cost? A tube
of grease and an NPT plug. I think I could afford that. Its not a total waste
of grease because you can just leave it in there and next time it has to come
apart it will not be a problem.
Just make sure it isn't p
Interesting find there! That is perfectly ideal for a race car, but I still
think the belt driven version is the more reliable so its the way to go on the
street. Now, it say '89 and earlier. More options.
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Well, if it won't start unless you manually add gas down the throttle body it
means its not getting fuel by itself. Sounds like a fuel pump problem to me.
Try banging on the tank while someone cranks it. I doubt the code 37 has
anything to do with it not running.
How do you go about "re-clocking" the shift lever on a 523 / 543 / 568
transmission? It can't easily be done because it is "keyed" so there is only
one position it can go back on. Just like how a steering wheel is keyed. The
pressure plate fork thing is also keyed in the same manor. I suppos
I have this problem of my timing belt rubbing against the front main seal
retainer thing on my 8v engine. The belt is riding on the very inside edge of
the crank gear. It started doing this about a thousand miles ago. Anyone else
have this problem? Why is it doing it? Is there a fix? Its
I just did the differential carrier bearings on my 568 transmission. We're
talking about a 413 transmission, but the procedure is going to be quite
similar.
To do it RIGHT the transmission has to come out. You do not need to press the
old bearings off of the differential assembly. You can ju
Do the head bolts / studs go into water jackets? My memory is letting me down
but last time I had a head off I chased the threads with a tap and the tap
bottomed out in there.
Hence the reason its not a good idea to use too much oil when you lube the
bolts during installation--they can hydrolo
There is only one problem. Not Turbosunleashed, not FWD performance, not Mopar
Performance, not Forward Motion, ever produced or will likely ever produce a
performance re-calibration for a 1992 Turbo car. They ARE different than the
older computers and are not fully compatible with each other
I don't know whats holding it on right now, but I had
nothing to attach mine with. The old one was original
and totally corroded and held on by a thread.
What I used was a lock washer. I slid it on there and
clamped it as tight as I could with a big pliars and
its still there 1,200 miles later.
1992 Daytona 2.5 Turbo 523 trans.
When I'm going down the freeway at like 80 mph, and
when I turn left, I hear a BRR noise/vibration
sorta like what a bad wheel bearing would make.
Now, before saying that I have a bad wheel bearing,
keep in mind that I have three Daytonas that do the
exac
Just make sure the information presented is accurate.
I (we) see it time after time where our engines are
referred to as "rod knockers" or similar and they
don't know what defines a T1, T2, T3, and T4.
So many of these articles are a total disgrace to the
turbododge world.
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Just make sure the information presented is accurate.
I (we) see it time after time where our engines are
referred to as "rod knockers" or similar and they
don't know what defines a T1, T2, T3, and T4.
So many of these articles are a total disgrace to the
turbododge world.
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Looking for someone with one of those unlimited carfax
lookups to run a few VINs for me. Anyone have one?
Even autocheck will be fine.
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All turbos will have SOME shaft play in them. My
brand new turbonetics S60 had some there. It is only
enough to barely feel.
Seepage of some oil into both the intake and exhaust
turbines is also normal. The more turbo wear, the
more seepage. Where do you draw the line as to when
exactly it bec
Both of my turbo cars show zero volts coming from the
sensor according to the scannner. Never is there any
voltage from it. I'm assuming that they are not
working but a new sensor is pretty expensive for
me to just try to see if it starts reading.
For the sensor data to indicate detonation,
I would be tempted to just verify that it is all the
way into the pan and just leave it there. It
shouldn't be able to fit between the pickup and the
oil pan, so you don't have to worry about it blocking
supply oil. Maybe leave a magnet on the pan to make
darn sure it doesn't get whipped up into
The way to do it is to use a multimeter and test to
see how much current draw there is. You just hook it
in series with the battery terminals. After sitting
with the ignition off for awhile (5 minutes for
example) there should be less than a .01 amp draw.
I just got around to diagnosing a drain
$250 is too cheap to spend on a new turbo. I am sure
someone else here will 2nd my opinion. You should
spend about double that.
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Q
I have two VINs to look up. Just looking to leech off
of someone's 1-month subscription or however they do
it now.
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Questions? Visi
I really doubt this problem is vapor lock. That
doesn't occur when the engine has been running for 5
minutes and just dies.
In a fuel injected car, vapor lock occurs when you
shut the hot engine off, and leave it sit for 5 mins
or so and the heat from the engine soaks into the fuel
rail, and the
>>Well I'd recommend dumping your narrowband sensor
>>and gauge and getting a wideband setup like
>>Innovate's LC-1. I was running a a/f gauge and a
>>scanner reading my narrowband O2 sensor. Trying to
>>get the reading up over .88v I added 30% of fuel to
>>the car at WOT (I can custom tune my EC
All the cars I have are the 1991+ cast control arms,
but the idea should be about the same.
The '91 Daytona has 181,000 miles on it. No abnormal
wear on the front sway bar. '92 Chrysler Lebaron
doesn't have any abnormal wear. '92 Daytona has 100kk
on it, and no abnormal wear.
The point I'm mak
Transmission input shaft bearings have gone bad or
teeth on the gears have been damaged.
In a perfect transmission, there should be darn near
no noise when letting the clutch out. The clutch is
not the cause of the noise.
Unless you have it in gear, let the clutch out, and
the engine does not
5w30 conventional valvoline engine oil has given me
the best performance in the 523/543/568 transmissions.
One thing I noted is that if you have old fluid in
your transmission (many turbododge people probably
have ORIGINAL fluid!) try changing it. It does make a
difference.
Funny how I read old
>>The only synthetic i'll use is RedLine.
>>20k service limit for oils and 100k+ for gear lubes
I've seen the Amsoil dealers with their trucks that
have stickers saying "this vehicle requires no oil
changes."
The oil itself will maintain its ability to lubricate
and cool the engine for a long time
The axle (well, it is technically not an axle) is the
perfectly horizontal thing. That seems really quite
sturdy to me, and in need of no reinforcement.
The panhard bar is the flimsiest piece of metal you
find down there. It is U-shaped and goes diagonally.
This needs reinforcement, and it shou
*Grim Reaper alert* I find it hard to believe that
someone wrote and was actually able to get such a book
published, since so few copies would actually sell.
Or am I wrong?
Had to be someone who whipped a book up on their
computer if it does exist.
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