a chance to try this, as I don't have one. If you use an
electric resistance solder device you can draw you bend lines with it,
thus annealing only the part to bend. I've been told you can get very
good, straight bends with this method.
8< - - - - -
Chris Wolcott
http://ww
I've been using Netscape all along. I have 7.1 and don't have any issues. No, I don't recall any huge noticeable changes from 7.0. I still have a FILE option on my mail toolbar, with a SAVE AS - File option. Perhaps the different skins have different names for things.
Anyway, Netscape seems
As others said, a cheap GROUND radio will work. Do NOT let anyone talk you
into an air frequency! It is illegal to use for ground applications, and
(because) it can cause all kinds of havoc if used while someone is using it
to control an aircraft.
I have the RCS system in my Ruby, I like it b
As a source, I've been told to look for Military Spec printer cable. It
is supposed to be made with small gauge teflon coated wire.
To avoid the flame issue, I was told to run it in the smokebox, then add
a layer of insulating sheet and a thin brass sheet cut to fit inside.
The springiness o
I'm glad I could offer a useful suggestion. My concerns with the
steam leaks are based on the impression that solder requires a
relatively 'large' gap to flow, and therefore would not be able to reach
much beyond the edges.
If you are into milling, another suggestion is based on my roundhouse
In a snipped portion, it was mentioned that you may bore a rod instead
of using an inner sleeve. My take is use a rod the diameter of the
middle sleeve and mill you steam passage into the outer surface and
cover that with just an outer sleeve. My concern is unless the
tolerances are exception
I'm fortunate enough to have a Metal Supermarket here in Birmingham, AL.
I have found all sorts of items there in steel, stainless and brass.
Large sheets, tubes, rods, shapes, etc. Most of what they sell are
drops and screw ups from fabricators and foundries, so the selection in
any particul
When I read 'sponge frog', I was thinking a filler block popped up to
fill in the gap in the frog. Looking at the pictures, it seems the
pointed part of the frog actually moves left and right like the points
of the turnout? I can see doing this on a broad radius switch to keep
the gap from be
Two from Hoover, AL (B'ham)
Peter Foley wrote:
>> How many list members are planning on attending the Diamondhead
>> Steamup (aka International Small Scale Steamup and Arts Festival
>> 2002) this January?
>
Where can one find any stainless mesh?
Don't worry about the horse. If you've ever notice horses in parades,
etc. they make a DEPENDS for animals. . .
Besides, with a little sawdust on the ground the folks who run 1880
period (or earlier) equipment would be glad of the 'Prototypical'
environment!
I'd like to try my hand at building an engine, but would prefer
something other than a chain drive 'Critter'. Are there any 'plans' for
a more traditional engine (Shay or other type geared loco would be fine
as well) that does not require machining?
(Also in the 'AFFORDABLE' range. . . . )
Has anyone ever tried making a ceramic burner for the Ruby? My burner
mesh and tube are starting to go, and I was thinking of trying to make a
burner from firebrick per the SitG article.
Looks good. I like the cab.
I noticed you had your front band back from the edge because of the
valve block. I was thinking your could try soldering on an offset tab
for that band, or 'simply' cut it shorter and tap two holes in the
smokebox underside and/or place small nuts inside.
I was
It seems a lot of folks are having trouble with my web site. Below is
the actual URL of the frame source you're trying to get to:
http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/RadioCtl.html
If you can't get that, try
html://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/Ruby/images/RCSrvo1.jpg ,
RCSrvo2.jpg,
You may be getting CACHED versions. Several pages have changed names
and no longer exist. If you're getting a lot of 404 errors, clear your
cache and/or refresh the frames. (index.html itself has changed, I
don't know how to refresh a container. . . )
To the left there should be a set of IN
After much procrastination, I've finally updated my web site to show
pictures (if somewhat fuzzy) and plans of how I installed the RCS R/C
system in my Ruby. (No follower car required!)
Please point your browser to http://webpages.charter.net/cwolcott/ and
after getting coffee, follow the lin
I would think the Boat Paint would last longer than the felt, just more
expensive. If no too late, Window Sill material may also make a good
material to make an elevated track out of. (I used it for my indoor
shelves.I can get it from the home supply in 15' or so lengths.) It is
meant to be
I always wondered what they spiked the track to along these troughs.
I don't remember why I think this, but I thought the Vanderbilt was
named for 'Commodore Vanderbilt', I believe of the NYC. Did he have
them designed/built?
Trent Dowler wrote:
>I mentioned a Vanderbilt tender to another steam enthusiast this past
> week and he asked why it was called a
I was under the assumption that boiler explosions were not so much an
EXPLOSION as the boiler turning itself into a rocket. As I understand
it, the water level would fall under the level of the crown sheet of the
firebox, letting the heat soften it enough that the steam pressure could
break t
My wife and I have made plans to go to next year's Diamond Head
Steamup. (MS) This will be our first time. How do you get track time,
and is there anything I have to get done before I can run ? (Boiler
certification, etc.) What should I bring besides my Ruby, some tools,
and fuel?
You may want to just think about opening up the frame some. You may
have to attach some structural support if you take away too much though.
If this is your first foray into Live Steam, a lot of people try the
Accucraft Ruby 0-4-0. It is fairly cheap, has a simple stephenson type
valve sys
All I know of the Iver is what I've seen in the ads, and I'm not
terribly interested in one either. This is why: I do not like the
'oscillating cylinder' look. And the sheet metal cover, open on both
ends to simulate a fixed cylinder just adds insult to injury. For all
the other extras in
If we're nominating movies, Shortline & Narrow Gauge Gazette had a
string of articles on Trains in the Movies. They mentioned one I
believe was 'The Denver & Rio Grande' that was about the building of the
D&RG and SANTA FE. They ran a couple of engines head on in the climatic
scene. If I re
I heard an interesting tale on this movie. The engineer was not
originally scripted to be executed, but shooting ran long and he had a
contract to do another movie! Also the hero was not supposed to be
hurt, but got hurt in real life (Motorcycle wreck?) and could not walk
well, so they wrote
While at a local SteamUp with friends in Atlanta, GA over the weekend, I
had a chance to test my RUBY RC setup in a 'REAL WORLD' environment.
(>500' of aluminum track) I was able to achieve a 60' range of control,
but a reliable range was closer to 45-50'. Still not bad for a body
attached
I'm planning on mounting my receiver under the cab in a psuedo-firebox
and running the antenna around the frame to the front pilot and back on
the other side. Will this work OK, or will the metal of the frame block
the signal? I can't think of a way to get it from under the cab to the
top of
I just got an RCS R/C setup for my Ruby. Has anyone used one with a
RUBY? How did you end up placing you batteries, receiver, decoder and
servos? I'd like to keep my side tanks off, but I'm not sure were else
to put all the stuff. Also, how did you arrange you antenna?
Thanks!
I may be moving to the Panama City, FL area soon. Does anyone know of a
garden railroad club or a live steam group in that area?
If I recall the data correctly, the expansion rail-clamps were to be
placed about every 20' or so on straight track. The 8 of 5' would let
you put 4 on each side of the expansion clamps for each leg, but I don't
know that it would be so critical that you could not use 2 of 8' on one
side a 3
Does anyone have any pictures of any of these type of draincock
installations?
I suppose the more appropriate question is 'Why would anybody convert a
Ruby to a Camel Back?'
;-P
Ciambrone, Steve @ OS wrote:
> Has anyone converted a Ruby to a Camel Back loco?
The only RC I can find at local hobby shops is trigger grip CAR radios
with large servos, or AIRCRAFT radios with dual sticks and
micro-servos. Is there a problem using aircraft bands for trains? Is
there somewhere I can get a Dual-stick (Single-stick) controller with
micro-servos?
Has anyone seen one of these in action? Are they just a Ruby with an
extended boiler and an extra set of drivers, or are they closer to an
Aster in Quality/Functionality?
I just got my Yearly Bonus, plus I have a few other dollars coming and
would like a good quality Live Steamer. (Under $1.
What I'm planning to try is beating a thin aluminum sheet square into a
cavity to make a bowl, then trim it down on the grinder to be round.
After polishing it with a brush in my Dremel I'll cut a small slot to
fit around the bulb if needed.
> I fill the cavity of the headlight, and make a "b
Vacuum. The water evaporating out of the leaf creates a partial
pressure that draws up additional liquid to replace it. I don't
remember all the nitty-gritty details, but if you know one you can ask a
horticulturist.
Peter Trounce wrote:
> Chris,
> Fair enough, but after the sap in the lea
No. As I recall, sap is primarily drawn up by the evaporation of water
through the leaves. There may be some added benefit due to capillary
action as well, but it is not the primary force..
Peter Trounce wrote:
> Isn't this how sap in a tree works ?
> Peter.
>
>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
If I remember my college days correctly, capillary action only occurs at
the fluid/air interface. If this is true, then only the size of the
tube would really matter. However I'm not sure what, if any, effect the
higher pressure of the steam would have over the capillary action of the
liquid
All good points, but keep in mind topping off the boiler with water is
more magic than art, let alone a science. Since there is no sight
glass, it is up to your intuition to guess how much water has been
lost. Too much water added cools the boiler down and if you keep
filling you end up runn
Anybody have a definitive source for colors used by the Colorado &
Southern? My railRoad (WC&W - Wolcott Creek & Western) is loosely based
on the C&S and I've tried to find what colors were used, particularly
for passenger equipment. My best find so far was an analysis of a paint
chip pulled fro
How do you define 'jammed'? Did you cross-thread the value, or possibly
the lock-nut? I don't know how far up the thread hole goes, but if you
ran the rod in ALL the way is it possible you're interfering with the
steam ports in the valve itself? The valve will come all the way out
with care
In case anyone still wants to look at my RUBY MOD pictures, my IP has
changed from 24.240.11.44 to 216.143.51.74 .
In theory, PURE water will not conduct electricity. It is the
impurities that are normally found in water that do. Being that we use
distilled water, but put it in a copper vessel, conductivity may not be
a constant. It is worth the effort to do an experiment though. That
would be the easi
You likly are putting in too much water. The RUBY is a wet engine, and is
designed to run out of fuel before water. However, once it is warmed up, it
should not be gushing water all the time it is running.
Fill the boiler all the way to the top, then remove about 30ml. This should be
about rig
This is the notice my local train club sent out:
HGTV will have a special on Sunday, April 15 at 5:00pm eastern time called
"Whistle Stop Gardens". The show will feature some of America's best
garden R.R.'s.(I don't see how this is possible as I don't think any of
our club members layouts are fea
This sounds interesting. Has anyone ever taken the top nut off the turret?
If that goes thru into the boiler, then perhaps a small tube could be inserted
down to the desired test depth with the 'mono-cock' on top. Then
(under-pressure) if steam came out, it would be time to refill. Is there
any
If you remember where you saw it, I'd be interested in seeing it (or a picture at
least).
Unless I'm missing something, it seems to me a tube coming out of the turret down
to the bottom of the boiler and back up to the turret would not show current water
level, but act more like a 'P' trap in a s
To my knowledge, term 'Fluted' when referring to a train means the
decorative rims and flared extrusions on the fancier domes early in the
era. Later as engine became more everyday and utilitarian, fluted domes
gave way to the smooth, plain domes common at the end of the era. I've not
seen a pic
After seeing the post on adjusting the side valves on the Ruby, I looked
at mine. (My Ruby has been a lot stiff of late). I adjusted them so
the line was barely touching with the driver cranks at TDC. (They
actually penatrated slightly.) It ran a little better, but when I
adjusted them back unt
thing about that?
Chris Rowles wrote:
> >
>
> > Chris wolcott wrote:
> >
> > > Question: What Threads? My jet simply plugs into the collar on the
> > > burner. Another note - I heard on some burners (Like mine) the cover over
> > > the screen is in
I was not paying much attention to the threads on casting, but a few
friends in the Atlanta Ga, area are starting a scratch building
project. The only location they had that would cast, mill, and quarter
a set of drivers for them was in England. Anyone have someone closer
that can do that type w
Question: What Threads? My jet simply plugs into the collar on the
burner. Another note - I heard on some burners (Like mine) the cover over
the screen is in a triangle and should be cut square to expose all the
burner slits.
Walt Gray wrote:
> Thanks to all who replied to my request for assi
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it. The unions don't match the AccuCraft ones, but
are slightly larger. (With a little effort you may be able to drill out the
Accucraft ones, I got half of one done fine with just a bit in a Dremel and a
pair of pliers. The other half got eaten by the teeth of the pl
Thanks. Took the pictures with my LEGO 'VISION-COMMAND' USB CCD camera. A
little fuzzy, but not bad.
I had already shimmed my safety to around 40 psi. Not sure why, but after the
super heater my pressure went up to 55+/- before the safety started to go. I
did notice that it was a much drier r
For better or worse, I've done the deed. For a write up and pictures,
please see my web page at http://24.240.11.44. Follow the links to
LargeScale Trains/My Projects. (I just now putting the page together,
so if it is not there when you try it, try again in an hour or so.)
Do I have to strip the (remaining) paint first? This works on brass as
well as steel? Do you just put some on a rag and rub it on? No adhesive
or bonder?
Kevin Strong wrote:
> Use the real thing. I've been using graphite powder for covering
> smokeboxes for a few years now. It's cheap, and if
I'm looking for a good match for graphite for a smokebox. My Ruby 2 came with a
darker 'graphite' color instead of the silver of the Ruby 1. However, the stack
has been scrached enough to leave visable brass color showing, and the one I
ordered from AccuCraft (for another project) is silver.
Je
Copper sulfate and and battery should do the trick. Attach the Anode (?) to the
item to plate and put all into a bath of copper sulfate solution. You will plate
all exposed surfaces this way, but you may be able to find some kind of masking
agent if you need. (Check with your chemical supplier.
Before I take drill and saw to my Ruby, I want to verify a few things.
I: Drilling a hole in the backhead into the Burner/flue and notching
the burner assembly to fit around it is OK. Is there a minimum length I
should leave between the burner and where the union is with the copper
leading to
Your timely post prevented me from doing a few things I feared I'd regret
later. (I have a knack for overlooking the obvious!) I am just now
dismantling my Ruby to try adding a Super Heater. After removing the
bolts holding the saddle to the smoke box and getting everything apart, it
looks like
I've ordered my Stainless tubing and Unions from Sulphur Springs, and
I'm preparing my Ruby for installing a Super Heater. I was planning on
running it the length of the flue, bringing the supply line from the
Lubricator back to the back head, down the flue and then through the
smoke box to the s
How do you define 'Unobstructed'? Is a fairly tight (1") radius bend in an
1/8" tube an obstruction, or are you primarily referring to 90 angles and
restrictions in diameter?
I would think a large line leading to a smallish cylinder (Such as a RUBY)
would 'overload' it, making it nearly impossib
I'm new to Live Steam and soldering with silver solder. The few times
I've done it so far, I've used a propane torch like you'd use to solder
water pipe, and to get the silver solder to melt I've had to heat the
work (Copper-Copper/Copper-Brass) until it glowed. Is this normal? I'm
concerned th
I have seen several Live Steam forums discussing adding a SUPER-HEATER
to the AccuCraft RUBY, but none have referenced any URLs where someone
can see actual plans/material lists/instructions. If someone out there
knows where I could find this (or any other RUBY mods) I'd appreciate it
if you coul
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