Hi all,
The power supply that I ordered from ebay is a 15Volt 2Amp switcher as
follows:
15V 2A 30W Single Output Switching Power Supply
Voltage...http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/280764693188?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649(280764693188)
cost AU$13.00 inc postage.
Its small and easy
The test I have been conducting for the last 6 weeks uses a 15V 3A Toshiba
switcher feeding the 5680A through a filter and a 78M05 for the five volts.
For the last 5 weeks I have temperature control and I still se no aging.
As I mentioned before I read 1E-12 over 1000 seconds since Tbolt
On Jan 5, 2012, at 9:55 PM, time-n...@custodes.info wrote:
On Jan 5, 2012, at 9:33 PM, shali...@gmail.com wrote:
Most laptop supplies operate around 19 or 20 volts. Its a good place to
start if you want to get 15V through a linear regulator.
I have used Nintendo Wii supplies for 12V
I have found that my FE-5680A of the latest crop will run fine from a
+12 volt supply turned up to 13.8 or so with a 5 v regulator for the
secondary voltage. This works well for a battery operated reference
in the field.
W5RCQ
On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 5:00 AM, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1
Chris Albertson wrote:
On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 6:11 PM, time-n...@custodes.info wrote:
l http://www.freqelec.com/rb_osc_fe5680a.html says 32W peak, but then
also 15-18v@700mA, which doesn't make sense.
It will pull 35W for the first five or
The Tech Manual does not call for heat sinking (unless I missed something).
The top has labels over much of the surface.
The bottom has a plastic sheet between the circuitry and bottom plate.
It appears the unit was expected to be rather hot when running.
I have mine mounted on the out side of
A heat sink may not be required, per se, although I would expect that a
larger thermal mass and/or thermal regulation via a closed loop fan
controller will help smooth out/stabilize temperature effects.
On 01/06/12, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469Rc...@omen.com wrote:
The Tech Manual
Le 06/01/2012 17:02, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R a écrit :
The Tech Manual does not call for heat sinking (unless I missed
something).
The top has labels over much of the surface.
The bottom has a plastic sheet between the circuitry and bottom plate.
Yes, I am inclined to agree as I suspect
On 1/5/2012 11:26 PM, Jim Palfreyman wrote:
Leap second has been announced for July.
Jim
Yes, this was copied from another list :
Subject: Bulletin C number 43
INTERNATIONAL EARTH ROTATION AND REFERENCE SYSTEMS SERVICE (IERS)
SERVICE INTERNATIONAL DE LA ROTATION TERRESTRE ET DES
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 17:47:47 +0100, mike cook michael.c...@sfr.fr
wrote:
Le 06/01/2012 17:02, Chuck Forsberg WA7KGX N2469R a écrit :
The Tech Manual does not call for heat sinking (unless I missed
something).
The top has labels over much of the surface.
The bottom has a plastic sheet between
Le 06/01/2012 18:05, David a écrit :
Yes, I am inclined to agree as I suspect these devices were designed to
run in uncontrolled temperature environments.
Maybe the test would be to measure the current draw over temperature,
when the box thinks it is warm enough it will stop heating the cell
Hi
I've been down this road with several Rb's. The answer is fairly simple.
They work fine with a hot base plate. They don't work any better or worse
with a hot plate than a cold(er) one though.
The gotcha is that the MTBF of the parts in the unit is indeed impacted by
the higher temperature.
Hi
What are you using the Rb for?
A switcher is going to put even more hash on an already dirty 10 MHz output
on the Rb. That may or may not be an issue to you.
Bob
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of
I do not care for this test but later on I will use a LDO and a clean up
OCXO.
Bert
In a message dated 1/6/2012 12:37:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
li...@rtty.us writes:
Hi
What are you using the Rb for?
A switcher is going to put even more hash on an already dirty 10 MHz output
on
Hi
Oddly enough, if you use a tantalum electrolytic as C2, it's not very happy
in that circuit. Their leakage with low voltages on them can be pretty
nasty.
Bob
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Poul-Henning Kamp
Sent:
Eventually, I think a reference clock for an HPSDR and/or PLL'd up and used to
clock my net4501.
-- Ian, KB9VEX
On Jan 6, 2012, at 12:53 PM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:
I do not care for this test but later on I will use a LDO and a clean up
OCXO.
Bert
In a message dated 1/6/2012
I do not understand why this is even discussed. Running at lower
temperature will extend life and using a fan with temperature control will cost
no
more than $ 12 and I challenge any of you how I can get for so little money
more than one order of magnitude improvement. As I reported before
OK, note taken. Usually large capacitors are not available with tantalum
dielectric, it seems that the last is a 1000uF 6.3V.
On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 6:54 PM, Bob Camp li...@rtty.us wrote:
Hi
Oddly enough, if you use a tantalum electrolytic as C2, it's not very happy
in that circuit. Their
What kind of temperature controlled fan did you use?
On 01/06/12, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:
I do not understand why this is even discussed. Running at lower
temperature will extend life and using a fan with temperature control will cost
no
more than $ 12 and I challenge any of you how I
As I understand it, the physics package needs to get quite hot
to work.
I would expect the physics package to be well insulated and off
by itself, but this doesn't seem to be the case.
On 01/06/2012 10:06 AM, ewkeh...@aol.com wrote:
I do not understand why this is even discussed. Running at
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react gracefully.
I'm thinking of something in sheet
In message 4f074dd9.5070...@febo.com, John Ackermann N8UR writes:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop
I just did this search for similar application. The cheapest stuff
they have is expanded polystyrene bead sheet which is easy enough to
work with but may be too thick (3/4) or not as durable as you want. I
made a hot wire cutting element for my Weller soldering gun out of a
length of 10 gauge
I've used Reflectix duct insulation in applications like this. it's
essentially bubble wrap with a reflective layer, you can layer it
pretty easily to add/subtract from the insulation value. plus is comes
in small, cheap rolls
here is a link to the amazon item, but it's in most hardware stores
They sell 4x8 foot sheets of aluminum foil faced foam insulation at
Home Depot. The thinnest is maybe just under one inch. Thickest is
about 4 thick. The other thing is just to make the cabinet out of
wood rather then sheet metal. Finally in stores that sell camping
equipment you can get roll
In message cabqdsz-hohh8ehspfm0aa6iw-ar6dljt2uxvxqhbtqtmwyk...@mail.gmail.com
, Eric Garner writes:
I've used Reflectix duct insulation in applications like this. it's
essentially bubble wrap with a reflective layer, you can layer it
pretty easily to add/subtract from the insulation value. plus
Hi John:
Michaels has Styrofoam, hot wire cutter and glue.
Have Fun,
Brooke Clarke
http://www.PRC68.com
http://www.end2partygovernment.com/Brooke4Congress.html
John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local source) insulating material to use
Heat is transferred via convection, radiation, and conduction. A sealed metal
box takes care of radiation and convection, so as you correctly point out,
conduction is the next frontier.
I'd say foam board , but I don't know specifically what kind of foam.
--Original Message--
From:
There is a closed-cell foam, aluminum foil clad on one or both sides that
is used as HVAC ductwork - they score it with a knife, and fold it to size
- that should withstand the temperatures you are contemplating, for a long
time. I have seen some approximately 1/2 to 5/8 inch, and the quantities
I mostly like it because it's easy to use, and _doesn't_ insulate too
well. you can add/subtract what you like to find the performance you
are happy with.
it also has the advantage that it doesn't degrade into garbage like
some closed cell foams do, and is really easy to work with
-Eric
On Fri,
That stuff at Home Depot is the way to go. You can use regular
styrofoam from coolers and cold shipping boxes, but there are a lot
of grades, ranging from crappy to great, and some are even
biodegradable - not good for this application. The construction types
are made to last, but also may
In message 201201062016.q06kg3vj016...@mail32c40.carrierzone.com, ed breya wr
ites:
That stuff at Home Depot is the way to go. You can use regular
styrofoam [...]
Just remember that clean styrofoam is great at static electricity...
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
I don't know what all the grief is about a power supply to run the 5680
units. I have three 5380/Trimble GPs units in various locations being
powered by Mean Well power supplies from Mouser. # 709-T40C for about 50
bucks - 75 bucks for one with more current. It is a switching ps but seems
clean
Balsa wood is good and is readily available from Hobby Shops. Or Gator board
(paper laminated on foam) also called foam board from Art's and Craft
stores.
John WA4WDL
--
From: John Ackermann N8UR j...@febo.com
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012
John:
The solution that will last longer than you will, is alternating
layers of aluminum foil (kitchen variety) and (dry) fiberglass cloth
(sold as roven woven anywhere they sell fiberglass supplies,
looks like white cloth, you can cut with scissors.)
Good to cryogenic temperatures, no
Yes - especially don't rub any cats on it or it may damage some electronics.
BTW for machining, any fine-toothed saw blade works well for straight
cuts. A metal hacksaw blade is usually stiff enough by itself to make
accurate, clean finish cuts on quality styrofoam. For drilling
round holes
On 1/6/2012 2:54 PM, Chris Albertson wrote:
Can you put something that uses power inside an insulated box? I'd
think it might over heat.
Thanks, all, for the numerous and helpful responses!
To answer Chris' question, putting insulation all the way around the
oscillator might cause problems
On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 12:22 PM, Bill Riches bill.ric...@verizon.net wrote:
I don't know what all the grief is about a power supply to run the 5680
units. I have three 5380/Trimble GPs units in various locations being
powered by Mean Well power supplies from Mouser. # 709-T40C for about 50
I wonder if Balsa wood would be suitable? Like polystyrene foam,
only stronger and easy to glue.
I think commercial OXCOs use polystyrene foam that's expanded to
shape, which is fine in production, but making the mold for one use
is not efficient. However, there are lots of expand-in-place
I completely forgot about those two. I have a good local hobby shop
with large pieces of balsa wood but I suspect it would be more
expensive than good quality expanded polystyrene bead sheet. I will
have to check out foam board next time. Both would be more difficult
to cut without a hot wire
John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react gracefully.
Before
On 1/6/2012 4:14 PM, Rick Karlquist wrote:
Before making this into a science project, consider this data
point: We converted the oscillator in a 10811 to run in mode
B at 10.95 MHz. The tempco in mode B is about 30 ppm per degree
C. Needless to say, the converted 10811 was extremely
I don't see how the foil is useful here. The metal box takes care of radiation.
-Original Message-
From: Graham / KE9H time...@austin.rr.com
Sender: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:26:46
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Have to agree thats very attractive. Few bucks for shipping and you are
done.
On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 3:39 PM, Chris Albertson
albertson.ch...@gmail.comwrote:
On Fri, Jan 6, 2012 at 12:22 PM, Bill Riches bill.ric...@verizon.net
wrote:
I don't know what all the grief is about a power supply to
On Fri, 06 Jan 2012 16:33:19 -0500, John Ackermann N8UR j...@febo.com
wrote:
On 1/6/2012 4:14 PM, Rick Karlquist wrote:
Before making this into a science project, consider this data
point: We converted the oscillator in a 10811 to run in mode
B at 10.95 MHz. The tempco in mode B is about 30
Hi
A metal shell inside a metal shell pretty well takes care of everything.
Gradients, transients, drafts, what ever. You don't need super thick stuff.
Bud chassis, Hammond boxes, copper pipe, PC board material, or soldered
brass flashing all will do the trick.
Simply tossing a fluffy towel over
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react gracefully.
Hi John,
Once I used several inch
On 1/6/12 11:39 AM, John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react
My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react gracefully.
Are you sure it is not thermal mass that needs to be increased and
not just insulation?
Phil
___
time-nuts mailing list --
I'm planning to do it a little different. I'll mount the FE5680 on a
heat sink and put that inside a metal box. The I drill a hole in the
center of the heat sink and epoxy in a temperature sensor. These
produce a voltage proportional to temperature and will control a small
fan. The moving air
Bob Camp wrote:
Hi
A metal shell inside a metal shell pretty well takes care of everything.
Gradients, transients, drafts, what ever. You don't need super thick
stuff.
Bud chassis, Hammond boxes, copper pipe, PC board material, or soldered
brass flashing all will do the trick.
We also
Rick,
On 01/06/2012 10:14 PM, Rick Karlquist wrote:
John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so
So far it seemed to me that the overall standpoint of the authoritative time-
nuts list is that the GPS timing and geografical survey of the OPERA experiment
are good (and hence experimental errors or artifacts, if any, should be
searched for elsewhere).
I myself, not being a deep GPS expert,
Hi Antonio,
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything near the
speed of light - for there are many known effects not taken into account
by the GPS protocol.
In the end the OPERA experiment may alert people to the assumptions and
approximations implicit in the GPS.
Antonio,
On 01/07/2012 12:20 AM, iov...@inwind.it wrote:
So far it seemed to me that the overall standpoint of the authoritative time-
nuts list is that the GPS timing and geografical survey of the OPERA experiment
are good (and hence experimental errors or artifacts, if any, should be
searched
On 01/07/2012 12:37 AM, b...@lysator.liu.se wrote:
Hi Antonio,
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything near the
speed of light - for there are many known effects not taken into account
by the GPS protocol.
In the end the OPERA experiment may alert people to the
On 1/6/12 3:20 PM, iov...@inwind.it wrote:
So far it seemed to me that the overall standpoint of the authoritative time-
nuts list is that the GPS timing and geografical survey of the OPERA experiment
are good (and hence experimental errors or artifacts, if any, should be
searched for
Now I read on another list, in which the subject is not timekeeping and from a
respectable author, that:
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything near the
speed of light - for there are many known effects not taken into account by the
GPS protocol.
In the end the OPERA
As an additional data point..
When experimenting with various forms of insulation for a thunderbolt board I
found that a corrugated carboard box provided a noticeable decrease in
temperature fluctuations while limiting the overall temperature rise. Even
small ammounts of additional
On 1/6/2012 6:20 PM, iov...@inwind.it wrote:
Now I read on another list, in which the subject is not timekeeping and from a
respectable author, that:
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything near the
speed of light..
Respectable author? What, does he think they're
At 10:15 PM + 1/6/12, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:41:13 -0600
From: David davidwh...@gmail.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thermal insulation choice?
Message-ID:
John Ackermann N8UR wrote:
I am looking for a readily available (from Home Depot or other local
source) insulating material to use in a chassis that's housing a
sensitive OCXO. My goal is just to slow down any external thermal
transients so the oven loop has time to react gracefully.
A
Can someone please give me some pointers (my first time with a GPS module).
A little hand-holding, pls.
I bought three of these Rockwell D200 GPS receivers. (It's little GPS PWB
with an antenna connector and pins for connecting to the RS232- PC)
All three 'appear' to work the same way
Amen.
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 1:04 AM, Mike S mi...@flatsurface.com wrote:
On 1/6/2012 6:20 PM, iov...@inwind.it wrote:
Now I read on another list, in which the subject is not timekeeping and
from a
respectable author, that:
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything
Try this: http://ke6mto.files.wordpress.com/2010/07/gps2a.pdf
but forst here: http://www.weirdstuff.com/cgi-bin/item/20164
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 1:24 AM, Don Lewis dlewis6...@austin.rr.com wrote:
Can someone please give me some pointers (my first time with a GPS module).
A little
And let me say this in italian: Antonio, ma chi ha detto 'sta fesseria?
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 1:24 AM, Azelio Boriani azelio.bori...@screen.itwrote:
Amen.
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 1:04 AM, Mike S mi...@flatsurface.com wrote:
On 1/6/2012 6:20 PM, iov...@inwind.it wrote:
Now I read on
...I cannot find that weird text using Google...
Antonio, ti ricordi il tunnel della Gelmini? Ecco e' la stessa cosa!
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at 1:30 AM, Azelio Boriani azelio.bori...@screen.itwrote:
And let me say this in italian: Antonio, ma chi ha detto 'sta fesseria?
On Sat, Jan 7, 2012 at
I would recommend and have used 1/4 inch polystyrene foam that is available in
roll form from DIY stores and either glue or double sided tape. It is easily
workable and cheap and achieves what you want. There is a caveat in that you
should also use nylon or other (heat) insulating washers and
Thank you, ...Azelio,
I hooked them up, using this site.
Maybe they are all bad. hope not.
-Don
---
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Azelio Boriani
Maybe support the osc on beads of RTV. That would both break the thermal path
and provide a little shock (vibration) isolation.
Some notebook PCs mount the hard drive in gel for shock.
-Original Message-
From: Malcolm g0...@aol.com
Sender: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com
Date: Fri, 6 Jan
Step one...is the antenna in a location where it can see they sky?
Sorry if it is a stupid question but you already said it was plugged in. :)
On Jan 6, 2012, at 19:24, Don Lewis dlewis6...@austin.rr.com wrote:
Can someone please give me some pointers (my first time with a GPS module).
Maybe I didn't take positioning seriously.
The antenna is currently on a shelf above my workbench, there is a
ceiling and an upstairs above it. Then the roof.
Is it very critical to be outside in order to 'see' the sky?
I did take it out once and set the antenna on my car roof,
It will certainly help to have visible sky and a metal ground plane. I have
mine in a skylight in my office and they still only 'see' about half of the sky
due to the slope of the skylight and living on the south side of a hill.
So, putting one where it actually can see the sky and letting it
Absolutely yes, the antenna must see the sky, not the ceiling. Even very
sensitive GPS receivers must have a good view of the sky for the first fix,
then you can bring the antenna indoor. You can try positioning the antenna
very near a window for just a test but better a good view. The car roof is
Make sure you have a DC voltage (3 or 5 volts depending on your antenna LNA
requirements) on the center lead coax line. Those old Rockwell receivers
are slow to acquire sats compared to todays modern receivers so give it 15
minutes or more when you have your setup with a good clear view of
On Fri, 6 Jan 2012 19:08:18 -0500, Joe Gwinn joegw...@comcast.net
wrote:
At 10:15 PM + 1/6/12, time-nuts-requ...@febo.com wrote:
Date: Fri, 06 Jan 2012 14:41:13 -0600
From: David davidwh...@gmail.com
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject:
Hi Don,
Among the other comments presented it seems the presumed antenna current might
be
a little low compared to others. That is, the additional 10 milliamps seems a
little low for an active antenna.
I would suggest trying to read the voltage on the antenna coax line to see if it
is proper.
dlewis6...@austin.rr.com said:
The antenna is currently on a shelf above my workbench, there is a
ceiling and an upstairs above it. Then the roof.
Is it very critical to be outside in order to 'see' the sky?
I did take it out once and set the antenna on my car roof, but still no
Thanks, Bill, for the thoughts.
I am running both the GPS and the antenna of the USB. It shows ~4.9Volts.
Maybe I need to use a separate power supply.
There is 4.9V on the center terminal of the antenna connector. Maybe I am
current-limiting the USBbus.
Thanks for the tips on the eBay
Insulation of an object to reduce heat transfer has three main
components.
Convection, the movement of air which carries heat from place to
place, this is easily reduced by
small cell (less than 5mm) structures, below this size thermal
convective circulation does not occur.
Conduction,
The GPS is very unlikely to give an accurate speed for anything near the
speed of light - for there are many known effects not taken into account by
the GPS protocol. In the end the OPERA experiment may alert people to the
assumptions and approximations implicit in the GPS.
I can't see
I wonder if Balsa wood would be suitable? Like polystyrene foam, only
stronger and easy to glue.
Another option would be cardboard.
Readily available, easy to cut.
--
These are my opinions, not necessarily my employer's. I hate spam.
___
Neville Michie wrote:
I wonder if TVB knows what the brown foam in 10811 is? Does it have a
radiation absorbing powder in it?
cheers, Neville Michie
Various foams were tried and or used in the 10811. The main
concerns with foams had nothing to do with insulating qualities
and certainly no
Adding to all of the info indeed it does need to have a clear view.
Further say its been off along time and the battery is dead or never
existed it can take hours to acquire the first sat. Especially if date and
time have not been set.
I have recovered older GPS units by actually telling them what
Thanks, Paul.
How do you 'tell' them?
-Don
-Original Message-
From: time-nuts-boun...@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-boun...@febo.com] On
Behalf Of paul swed
Sent: Friday, January 06, 2012 8:56 PM
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency
Doesn't this package have a separate pin to provide voltage to the
antenna? It needs to be connected to the 5 volt supply...
Don Lewis
Thanks, Bill, for the thoughts.
I am running both the GPS and the antenna of the USB. It shows
~4.9Volts.
Maybe I need to use a separate power supply.
Rick wrote:
We also tried mounting the modified 10811 in Hammond metal box.
Initially, we mounted the 10811 to the box using the
two standoffs that come with the 10811. However, this
degraded the performance somewhat. We removed these and
had the 10811 supported mechanically only by the edge
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