I guess I'm just used to switching between SAE and metric. Most of the bolts on my 86 GLHS are metric. However, when I work on my 90 Dakota I find more stuff to be SAE. Why make it easy for the next guy to work on the car? :-) I do hope I never have to replace those joints. I got my cone washers from Pegasus Racing as well. Actually I got all my pieces from there, it was a little expensive but it was one stop shopping and everything was shipped correctly and promptly. A friend of mine just bought a Hurst shifter, don't know if he's got it installed on his Omni yet. I didn't bother to upgrade the shifter on mine because it feels really good as is after the conversion. I enjoy shifting the GLHS now as much as I do the A568 in my R/T.
-- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Well think about what happens down the road when you need to replace those joints. How frustrating will it be for you or whomever is having to break the hardware loose having to change between metric and SAE tooling? Let alone when you remove the transaxle or drivetrain for service. All of the other bolts and nuts on the car are metric, yet the shift linkage isn't? The rod ends were a little harder to find (Midwest control, BTW had a great deal on them) but the rest of the hardware is as easy to find as your local hardware store. The exclusion is the special rod end washers (I've not found a source for those outside of Pegasus racing yet) so I used brass female pipe adapters cut in half and turned a little to provide enough room for the ends to pivot properly capped off with a standard washer they provided the necessary protection from completely losing the rod end if should fail. One of the differences between the NA and Turbo linkage is on the turbo one of the rods is bent to clear the turbo downpipe. Also the pivot for the side to side movement is slightly different length on one of the arms. If you're using a Hurst shifter with the 5-speed you need to build an adapter bushing for the bottom of the shifter and extend the arm coming off the top of the main shift tube by about 3/8" of an inch otherwise you won't have enough movement to get all 6 gears properly. Make sure to put the factory weights back on the arm when you weld it up as it helps with the feel of the shfiting. TTYL, Stefan -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Just curious why you'd recommend buying all metric hardware. I had a hard time > finding heim joints in general, it took a bit of searching to find the metric > male joint. The SAE joints were easier to find and in the end you're just > cutting threads on the rods for the 4 female joints, I don't see how it is an > advantage to get the metrics for those, I did see a benefit on getting the male > end because it saved having to drill and tap the rod end. > Your article was well written, I used it as a guide for my conversion. It is > definitely a modification that was well worth the time and effort. I did mine > when I had the head off my car, which made things much easier. > > -- [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > I wrote that article (though I don't remember giving turbo-mopar.com rights to > post it there, at least boostedmopar.com asked first) So personally, after doing > a half-dozen conversions, I would recommend just buying all metric hardware > (makes it easier to service and its not much more than SAE parts) In fact after > the first one I did, I bought supplies in metric from there on out just to make > life easier on the service side of things. > > I have some pictures of the 520/555 conversion brackets that I designed (as well > as the CAD drawings for them) I'll try to get around to putting them up on my > site someday soon. > > Best Regards, > Stefan Mullikin > > -------------- Original message ---------------------- > From: "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > This link should give you all the information you need. Also, on the one male > > heim joint, if you get it metric sized it will screw right into the female rod > > end. It cost me a little more but to me it was worth the time saved. I think > > it was 10mm x 1.25, just unscrew the end and if you have a good tap & die kit > > use the thread pitch measurer in there. I used 3/8 x 24 for the female heim > > joints. > > http://www.turbo-mopar.com/forums/showthread.php?t=32 > > Scott > > 86 GLHS #408 > > 89 Daytona C/S > > 90 Dakota Sport Convertible > > 92 Spirit R/T > > Walkersville, MD > > Date: Sun, 17 Sep 2006 13:45:24 -0500 > > From: "Aaron Wyse" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Subject: SD> L-body linkage conversion > > > > It's finally about time for me to awaken my '86 L-body turbo. > > However, when last I worked on it; I'd decide to convert it from the plastic > > joints over to heim joints. Does anyone have the actual parts list? I > > remembered someone that had put it all together in a basically ready to > > assemble kit; buy haven't been able to find my information on who it was. > > Thanks all > > Aaron Wyse -----------------------REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING---------------------------- Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
