Hi Alan, David and Mike
I'm late reading and jumping in too.  Good post guys.
Thats kinda like how I've been buying my Harrison UL Pro series wood shafts.
S = Pro 2.5  /  R = Pro 3.5  /  A = Pro 4.5  /  L = Pro 5.5
Also helps to minimize shaft inventory.
I can't comment on graphite iron shafts, as I don't use any.
David, did you comments on Torque vs. the larger clubheads?
I would be interested in hearing your insight.  Sorry if you have posted this.
Thanks Harry S
www.Golf54.com
-----Original Message-----
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Alan Brooks
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2003 9:48 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: How to pick torque?

Hi Folks,

Excuse me for jumping in kind of late in this thread but I have been focused elsewhere.  A couple of comments on torque.  First is on the torque rating, or the 'torque' of a shaft.  I queried Dynacraft's Forum about this a while back and one of the Jeff's replied that the reason it is used this way is historical.  This is what the first company to specify torque used and so now we all use it.  The problem is that the rating is the inverse of what makes sense.  The 'torque rating' refers to the torsional stiffness of the shaft.  Normally you use a rating that would have a larger value for stiffer shafts.  Because the 'torque rating' is actually the angular deflection of a shaft loaded with a standard moment (1-ft lb) it is the inverse of that.  A higher number is a less torsionally stiff shaft.

A golf shaft is both a longitudinal spring and a torsional spring and the torsional spring has pretty much the same effect as the longitudinal spring.  Stronger golfers need/prefer stiffer shafts - both longitudinally and torsionally.  We should probably use a 'torque' rating system that mirrors the longitudinal stiffness rating and have X, S, R, A, and L where maybe X is a torque rating below 2, S is a torque rating from 2 to 3, R from 3 to 4, etc.  This way we could have XX golf shafts.  This is sort of what Golfsmith has done, only they use colors.

Just a couple of thoughts.  Have a great day all.

Alan Brooks




At 02:51 AM 3/20/03 -0500, you wrote:
In a message dated 3/19/2003 5:20:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Thanks to all who have replied.
So far we have:
1. It doesn't matter
2. Lower is better, always
3. Manufacturers specs mean nothing
4. It's a feel thing
5. They measure it, and tell you what it is for a reason and CG and face
size needs to be accounted for when picking one.
any other opinion or comments?
I have been builing clubs for 5 or so years I used to have a small shop,
lots of tools (still have them) and was a little active here (I am lefty so
there were lots of left hand comments). I just rejoined after a couple years
of being gone, I got interested in maybe starting again.
Message to Mr. Kennedy, I see you have not changed much, good. Next time you
answer a question please do not sugar coat it and tell me what you really
think. My personal experience has been simular to yours but the "low torque"
thing makes sense to me.  I really want to get to the bottom of this issue
though it is bugging me.
Thanks again,
Mike


Hi Mike,
My take on it is based upon many years of selling and testing "branded" shafts as well as developing my own brands, in all price ranges and having available testing equipment so that I could compare apples to apples and not rely on what shaft co's claims were.
A few of the observations I've made are that as a "general rule"
For slower swing speeds higher torque seems to assist in promoting a higher ball flight and increases a since of feel and for this same player the lower torque shaft feels more harsh and tends to go low, right, and short.
For higher swing speeds higher torque tends to balloon the ball and feel mushy and frankly shitty, for this player the lower torque shaft offers more of a one piece feel between his body and the clubhead without a lot of slack.
If you look at the last three shafts that achieved "made it" status in drivers they are in order the aldila hm 35, the graffaloy prolite 35 and more recently the pro force 65,
all these shafts share one thing in common and that is that they have a true 3.4-3.9 torque when measured over a 39.5"-40" beam length in a 5" butt clamp, their made it status occurred because good players played them because they worked well for them, a lot of bad players bought them thinking that if Jack hits it then so should I, so I would say fit torque to swing speed for traditional size heads.
Now when it comes to larger drivers this where I separate from the common wisdom on this forum.
And that will be addressed on my next post.
David

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