## If you introduce a thermal differential in a liquid..warm area and
opposing cooler area...warmer rises, cooler sinks. "Convection currents"
are the result.
One side of the jar painted black, or a vertical strip of black tape
absorbs more solar radiation there than the water and glass of the rest of
the container making that thermal differential.
http://silverpuppy.com/thermalstirsequence.html
In that series of photos, note that the electrodes are very close to the
bottom of the container and would ordinarily leave silver oxide and silver
hydroxide deposit spots on the glass bottom..whitish on one side, black on
the other and eventually a silvery mirror between them.
Just that little bit of motion in the water eliminates the deposit formations.
In that case, the warm spot is center bottom and the cooler...all the
sides, making a torrid shaped stir pattern, like a dynamically frosted
doughnut.
There is a bit of a limitation in that in very tall containers, the water
cools before it reaches the top, spreads out and sinks..so the top doesn't
get stirred very well.
My solution to that was to put a chimney in the container to "blow the
smoke" into the "stratosphere" by concentrating and increasing the velocity
of the water. http://silverpuppy.com/funnel.html
It works quite well, but a quart jar isn't really too tall...and glass
funnels tend to break easily. [ A great idea that few really "need"
balanced into a non sale with fragility issues]
Up one side and down the other works as well but with an advantage.
If the heat soak area goes all the way to the top using a full length
vertical stripe to absorb and dissipate the concentrated energy...all the
warmer water goes there too...in essence... a "virtual chimney"
You can't break something that only exists in a dynamic state...not even
in shipping where "Fragile" means "Play basketball with the box"
Ode
At 06:57 PM 3/4/2010 +0100, you wrote:
Thanks for clarifying, Chuck! How clean should the anvil be, since I'll
have to clean it before my husband hammers the coin. I don't live in
Canada, but I suppose I could possibly get one over here in Europe.
The part I didn't quite understand was the last part, after you make a
thinner sheet, like cutting into the ribbon? and what's a "tin snip"?
I also don't know how thick the coin is to begin with, since all
currencies have their own sizes, and then how thin is too thin, and how
thick should it "not" be. I don't know if it would make much of a
difference. I haven't experimented with any of this stuff yet, and would
like to learn from those with experience, so I hope you won't mind me
asking, what might seem as mundane questions :-)
Thanks in Advance!
Aldi
Oh, you also mentioned, that they last longer than the wires or strips.
Why would that be? Does it have anything to do with the total area, like
the larger it is, the better the energy is dispersed?
And I'm trying to think of what someone said about brewing in the sun and
adding something to it for the stirring motion? I tried to look for it
again, but that's hopeless. Just in case someone might remember, or the
person who wrote it, could respond, I would greatly appreciate it. I'd
like to see if I have less crud on the bottom.
On Thu, Mar 4, 2010 at 12:27 AM,
<<mailto:cking...@nycap.rr.com>cking...@nycap.rr.com> wrote:
I use Canadian Silver Coinage.
I heat with a propane torch to soften, hammer it out on an anvil to
make a thinner sheet, and cut into ribbon for use with tin snips.
Chuck
If you don't care where you are, you ain't lost!
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