Dear Harsha,
I do not know ----for sure---if there is a likely-hood
for oil contamination during operation of the pump assembly. Most of these
systems utilize an oil-less, sealed-bearing arrangement......however, until we
disassemble one, I cannot say with confidence that this is the case.
If I had need for such a system (especially an
emergency) I would not allow my consternation regarding a possible hydrocarbon
contamination to prevent utilizing the misted CS. This is, merely, an opinion
and carries no additional assurance. In any event I suspect that it would
require elevated temperatures to precipitate a major stress to the air
pump----but I can offer no guarantee of such. If suffering from a major,
active pathogen, your choice would become one of priorities..........pretty
easy for me.
Sincerely, Brooks Bradley.
p.s. Regarding the Medical Grade oxygen. In spite of the fact you are lead
to believe that Medical Grade oxygen is superior to that in a conventional
Oyy/Acetylene system----such is not "actually" the case. The fact of the
matter is that Medical Grade
oxygen is processed and filled by the same equipment (is, in fact, the same 02
supply).....the difference being----the 02 CONTAINER is tested for residual
contamination to qualify as Medical Grade. This operation would carry much
more validity---especially for us---if it were not for the fact that the
over-whelming majority of all pathogenic forms are ANAEROBIC and are disabled
in the presence of 02. Additionally, hydrocarbon agents such as oil or
long-chain toxicants, polymers etc., are FUEL AGENTS......and if present would
constitute an EXPLOSION hazard. Hence the great care---by
the manufacturers----to keep such away from the 02 processing areas. What you
are paying the exorbitant fee for MEDICAL GRADE is the TESTING of the
container and the paper "guarantee" that such has been done.
Sincerely, Brooks
Bradley.
harsha godavari wrote:
> Brooks:
> I have a query regarding this pump (and may be others of this
> type). Is there any possible oil contamination from it? I understand that
> oil could be a problem with tire inflators.
>
> I was going to use a small oxygen tank and discovered that I need to get a
> medical prescription to rent one of those. I have one those tire inflators
> sitting around, not being used !
>
> Regards
> Harsha Godavari
>
> Brooks Bradley wrote:
>
> > During the past several days I have been
> > having an off-list dialogue with another list member...relative to
> > acquiring a smaller, less cumbersome unit that possessed some degree of
> > portability. I imposed on one of our technicians to investigate.
> > First, he tried to utilize several different aquarium pumps....none were
> > effective due to excessively low output pressure. Next he investigated
> > using the air discharge side of a high-quality vacuum pump. This was
> > workable, but cost-prohibitive due to requiring a high-efficiency pump.
> > Finally, through a serendipitous circumstance we chanced upon using a
> > little 12 vdc air pump available at Harbor Freight, for about $11.00..
> > It is manufactured by Campbell Hausfield and the stock number is #36688.
> >
> > The system is comprised of the 12 vdc tire inflation
> > pump, one double gang aquarium air-control valve (Walmart 2..00), about
> > 4' of silicone airline tubing from Walmart (#JM005..2.44 m size. Costs
> > about .90 for an 8' package); a conventional air compressor gage...0 to
> > 100 psi indicated; one 1/4" air brush coupler # P-1655 from Harbor
> > Freight....cost about .99.
> > Assembly procedure: Cut the 4' section of silicone
> > tubing into two equal sections; connect one section to either of the
> > output connections on the aquarium gang-valve; after screwing the
> > airbrush coupler on the pressure gage, slip the remaining end of of the
> > tubing coming from the gang-valve over the exposed end of the air brush
> > coupler. Next open the remaining control valve on the gang-valve
> > assembly to Full Open (fully counter-clockwise). Now connect the
> > remaining (other) piece of silicone tubing to the single INLET
> > connection to the gang-valve. Open the end-cover on the Air Pump and
> > remove the little orange-colored nozzle adapter and screw it into the
> > discharge-outlet of the Pump air hose....but only about 2 or 3
> > threads----any more and you cannot move the locking handle sufficiently
> > to unseat the discharge-line check valve (unless the check valve is
> > unseated, insufficient pressure will be achieved). Next, connect the
> > small end of the nozzle adapter well into the silicone tubing coming
> > from the gang-valve INLET. At this time what you have is the Air Pump
> > connected to the gang-valve; the gang-valve with one outlet valve
> > connected to the Air Pressure Gage and the other outlet valve OPENED and
> > vented to atmosphere.
> > Operation: With the system connected as outlined above,
> > connect the Air Pump to a 12 volt DC source (auto cigarette
> > lighter is excellent, since the furnished power connection is a
> > cigarette lighter probe). Any quality 12 volt battery charger may be
> > used, but be sure to connect to the power leads correctly. The center
> > contact on the cigarette lighter should be the (+) and the side-springs
> > should be the (-). With the system running as described the Air
> > Pressure Gage should be reading near Zero. Next, slowly close the
> > gang-valve outlet control (the one you left FULLY OPEN to atmosphere)
> > until pressure begins to indicate on the Gage; slowly continue closing
> > until the indicated pressure is 25 psi. If one or both of the hoses
> > blow off, just reinstall and push up snuggly. Friction pressure only
> > should suffice for 25 psi----if not, use some small-gage copper wire (28
> > gauge is fine) sections (about 1.5" length) and wrap them around each of
> > the tubing connections and twist securely. CAUTION: This little pump
> > can develop quite high pressures under "dead-head" conditions....so one
> > should increase pressure slowly, unless you want to blow hoses
> > everywhere. Once you have the system working at 25 psi you,
> > essentially, have it calibrated for the specific valve settings and
> > "theoretically" should be able to operate it without the pressure
> > Gage----if you so choose (but I would not). If you choose to operate
> > without the pressure gage, all you do is to disconnect the Air Pressure
> > Gage and connect the air brush nebulizer inlet directly in place of the
> > pressure gage. DO NOT CHANGE THE SETTING ON THE VALVE VENTING TO
> > ATMOSPHERE. If you choose to keep the Air Pressure Gage in the circuit,
> > obtain an "inline" Tee connection (compatible with the tubing
> > size...Aquarium department, Walmart....about .80) Cut the main air
> > supply hose going to the gang-valve and insert the "T" valve (one end of
> > tubing from Air Pump and the other section going to the gang-valve
> > INLET. Now, using a new section of tubing of desired length, connect
> > one end to the remaining outlet of the "T" valve and the other to the
> > Air Pressure Gage's Airbrush Adapter fitting. What you now have is the
> > Air Pressure Gage sensing the input pressure to the gang-valve
> > assembly....CONTINUALLY. One advantage to this set-up is that when you
> > trigger the Airbrush Nebulizer, you can monitor the pressure drop. If
> > the pressure drop falls below 20 psi when you trigger the
> > airbrush.....just recalibrate your system to a higher initial pressure.
> > I suggest 30 psi.
> > Actually, the system is very simple to construct
> > and I have endeavored to explain to the lowest common denominator of
> > technical expertise. My goal is for the "unknowing" non-technical
> > person to be able to assemble this little system.
> > If you do not understand my feeble explanations,
> > just email me and I will try to answer in a fashion acceptable to your
> > comprehension.
> > Our resident "tinkerer" has done quite well (I
> > believe) in composing this simple address to the challenge for a very
> > economical, somewhat portable, airbrush air-drive system.
> > Sinerely, Brooks
> > Bradley.
> >
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